Sounds Of The Souks

Author: Freebird Tracey

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee.

    Traditional Saharan Coffee. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Coffee brewed using a centuries old technique.

    Check Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir.

    Rich, aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand and gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.

    To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand.

    The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina.

    This charming spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is also a rooftop where you can sit to enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of self-indulgence

    Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.

    It’s an experience seeing the coffee gently warmed by hot Merzouga desert sand and savouring its unique taste.

    I was surprised how quickly the coffee became hot. I sat watching it being made from arabica and fragrant spices, which filled the air around me.

    Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition.

    The friendly, welcoming proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not just a cup of coffee.

    It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy alleyways of the souks.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.

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  • The Spice Square In Marrakech.

    A vibrant area selling spices and so much more.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Spice Square, also known as Rahba Kedima, is a smaller market, less densely packed with tourists.

    It is located at the end of Souk Semmarine and a five minute walk from Jamaa El Fna.

    It is here that you will find a wonderful selection of spices, including saffron, cumin, and turmeric.

    The spices are beautifully displayed in pyramids around the square, and the air is fragrant with the scent of incense.

    There are dried herbs, oils, potions, tea, and the traditional Moroccan lip stain.

    The Spice Square is the traditional apothecary of Marrakech and a treasure trove of Moroccan culture.

    In the Spice Square, you will also find hand woven baskets, hats, baby tortoises, and a range of shops selling Amazigh jewellery and other stuff.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It is a vibrant, colourful market with a less frantic pace than Jamaa El Fna.

    It is home to popular restaurants like the Cafe Des Espices, a rooftop restaurant that overlooks the market.

    Nomad is also in close proximity to the Spice Square.

    The Spice Square is not far from the Medersa Ben Youseff and Marrakech museum, so it’s ideal for making it part of your day when visiting both of these attractions.

    Until the 20th century, Rahba Kedima was the cities grain market and the place where slaves were sold.

    It is now the epicentre of the medina where you can pick up the famous Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout and watch the spice sellers who come down from the mountain villages at 4.00 in the afternoon to sell their trade to the professionals.

    The smells and colours are heady with friendly vendors, demonstrating the benefits of eucalyptus.

    The Spice Square is a photogenic place where you will be met with a glimpse of trading traditions from the past.

    It’s the perfect balance between a bustling market experience and a relaxing, more laid-back atmosphere.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Place Des Ferblantiers.

    Also known as Tinsmiths Square in the Mellah.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    This quieter area of Marrakech is often overlooked by tourists.

    Tinsmiths Square is located to the south of Jamaa El Fna.

    It is within the Mellah, the oldest Jewish quarter of Marrakech.

    It is here that skilled artisans make their wares to sell using traditional methods passed down through generations.

    Beautifully crafted jewellery, lamps, and traditional daggers made from copper and tinplate are skillfully handcrafted in this fascinating area of the city.

    Tinsmiths Square presents a calmer alternative to Jamaa El Fna with palm trees lining the pedestrian friendly walkway.

    It connects the old Jewish district with the Muslim quarter.

    Tinsmiths Square is a colourful, vibrant area with lots of spice shops, rooftop restaurants, and shops selling intricately carved items made in small workshops.

    There are comfortable benches around the square to sit and take in the sights and sounds of authentic life here and a central fountain.

    Cats roam freely across the square and are a popular sight, lazing in the plant pots and flower beds.

    Sometimes, they are quite cheeky and make themselves comfortable on tourist’s laps.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fun games occasionally take place, and the square sometimes hosts events.

    Place des Ferblantiers is close to popular sightseeing spots like The Bahia Palace, El Badi Palace, and The Saadian Tombs.

    The Kasbah is just a short walk away.

    I love Tinsmiths Square.

    There are some great cafes and restaurants and I have bought some perfect souvenirs here.

    There is a great vibe, and the pace is much more relaxed than in the densely packed medina.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    I was spoilt for choice with all the fragrant spice shops selling everything from eucalyptus to argan oil.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I even found a street vendor selling the tastiest dates I’d ever tried.

    If you want a feeling of authentic life in Marrakech and a slower, less touristic place to spend a few hours, don’t miss out on visiting Tinsmiths Square.

    I have featured a few articles in my blog recommending places to dine in this area and places of interest to visit.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Les Bains Kenaria.

    A traditional Hammam and Rooftop Cafe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Over 400 years old and beautifully preserved and restored.

    Les Bains Kenaria has been revived to become a sanctuary in the medina.

    It still uses the ancient Moroccan tradition of heating the Hammam using the wood fired method.

    Services include newly added thermal rooms, warm baths, cold baths, a jacuzzi style pool, and a massage.

    Les Bains Kenaria is also a rooftop cafe, and this is where my experience here began.

    I was lured in by the lush tropical plants that spoke to me from the intricately crafted doorway.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I made my way upstairs onto the pretty rooftop and was seated on a comfortable, colourful couch.

    The staff were really friendly and courteous, and they helped me to choose a vegetarian option from the menu.

    My food was one of the most delicious tagines I’d tried in Marrakech.

    The fresh vegetables included fava beans and olives and tasted absolutely sumptuous.

    I watched the sun setting as I tucked into my food, and I could hear the lively sounds of the souk below.

    It was a lovely atmosphere, and I could watch everyday life taking place on the adjacent rooftops.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I chose a beet smoothie for the first time, and it was quite different from anything I’d had before.

    The setting was peaceful despite it being in the busy medina, with tourists shopping in the street below.

    I was able to enjoy my meal in a relaxed, stressfree manner, taking my time and not feeling rushed at all.

    The food is traditional Morroccan cuisine, and prices are very competitive.

    There is plenty of choice for lunch and dinner on the menu, and breakfast is also available.

    The opening hours are;

    9.00am until 8.00pm daily.

    The address is;

    Bain Maure, N 132,

    Marrakech 40040, Morocco.

    I will certainly be back to eat here again, and next time, I may even try a Hammam experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Malah Cafe Restaurant In The Mellah.

    A budget restaurant in Tinsmiths Square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Melah Cafe restaurant is located in Place des Ferblantiers, otherwise known as Tinsmiths Square.

    It is in the oldest Jewish quarter of the city towards the south of Jamaa, El Fna.

    This is the area where  artisans make things out of copper and tinplate, using skills passed down from generation to generation.

    There are shops selling traditional daggers, jewellery, tea trays, incense burners, and lamps.

    If you visit the mellah, Melah Cafe restaurant is just one of the many places to stop for a drink or a bite to eat.

    The food served is traditional morroccan and international cuisine.

    I had a really nice sandwich and fries with a refreshing smoothie, and it was very reasonably priced in comparison to the main square.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is plenty to watch sitting outside shaded under a large umbrella, and lots of cats wander to and fro across the square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I like spending time here.

    It’s not as busy as other places around the medina and close to attractions like the Saadian Tombs and El Badi Palace.

    The kasbah is a short walk away.

    There is a good selection on the menu at Malah Cafe restaurant, and food suitable for vegetarians and vegans is also available.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Opening times are;

    8.30am until 11.00pm.

    The address is:

    23 Place des Ferblantiers

    The Mellah has a huge selection of herbs and spices. Don’t forget to check out the wonderful selection whilst you are visiting Tinsmiths Square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • A Sunset Camel Ride In The Palmerai.

    I took a trip to the Palmerai to get out of the city for a while.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Palmerai is a 54 square mile palm oasis on the northeast edge of Marrakech.

    It’s a 20-minute drive from the city centre and is known for its lush landscape, high-end resorts, and popular activities.

    I needed to take a break from the manic pace of life in the medina, so I decided to visit for a camel ride at sunset.

    I booked through Get Your Guide and was picked up by my guide Mohammed next to the Islane Hotel.

    I was part of a small group, and we were taken to our destination in a small air-conditioned mini bus.

    After a short drive, the scenery changed, turning into a beautiful landscape with thousands of palm trees.

    There were so many camels with colourful seats sitting at the sides of the road.

    We stopped, and immediately, we were all dressed in traditional blue Tuareg clothing.

    Video taken by our guide Mohammed.

    After embarking on our camels, we set off trekking.

    It lasted for approximately 40 minutes, around palm trees and gravelly ground.

    I have every respect for Tuareg people, who can spend months on the back of a camel.

    I think they are wonderful creatures but not the most comfortable, and 40 minutes was more than enough for me.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The sunset was pretty, although I would imagine it to be more spectacular during the summer months.

    The camel drivers were friendly and entertaining, singing songs and making little camels for us by plaiting the grass they collected along our route.

    Back at the vehicle, our small group sat with the camel drivers who prepared traditional mint tea for us all.

    We drank it, and soon afterwards, we were heading back into Marrakech.

    It was nice to get out of the city for a while.

    In terms of value for money,

    I think that quad biking may be the better option.

    The scenery was amazing, and I enjoyed seeing another side of Marrakech, but I wasn’t blown away by the experience.

    Our guide was lovely.

    He took videos and photographs for everyone.

    The Palmerai also hosts balloon rides available through Paradise Ballooning and Marrakech Balloon.

    There are several golf courses in the area also.

    If I return again, I may try a different activity next time.

    For people who don’t wish to head out into the Sahara desert and want the experience of riding a camel, the Palmerai is worth considering due to its close proximity to Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • LA Maison Des Oliviers.

    A beautiful resort with exotic, tranquil gardens.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was searching for the perfect place outside the medina to enjoy some peace and tranquillity.

    I heard about La Maison Des Oliviers and decided to spend a few days there.

    The grounds of this popular resort are absolutely beautiful and very well maintained.

    Surrounded by olive trees, palms, and citrus trees, it feels very exotic, and the building is like a mediaeval castle with its cob walls and lush gardens.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a heated swimming pool that is kept immaculately clean and a pool bar serving good food and alcohol.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is set over 3 hectares and has 10 standard rooms, 10 deluxe rooms, 17 senior suites, and 3 ambassador suites.

    There is a small shop selling souvenirs on the premises.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed in one of the standard rooms, and it was large and comfortable, with all the amenities I needed for my stay.

    It was lovely just relaxing by the pool and literally spending several days doing absolutely nothing.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner.

    The food was nice, and the outdoor seating area was perfect for pre dinner drinks or a night cap.

    There is a shuttle that takes guests into the medina, which is 10 minutes away from the resort.

    Some people have mentioned the surroundings outside the gates of the accommodation.

    It is undeveloped, and I wouldn’t walk around in the evening by myself, but I did feel safe visiting the small supermarket during daylight hours.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is a place for total relaxation.

    I would recommend staying there after a few days in the busy medina.

    It is a welcome break from the nonstop pace and a well-deserved retreat where you can completely wind down and catch a few sun rays.

    I enjoyed my relaxing break here. However, I did miss the authenticity of the medina.

    Although the staff were friendly and helpful, they are simply doing a job, and I missed the charm and more personal experience that I get from staying in a riad.

    I would return again, purely for the contrast to the lively, touristic side of Marrakech.

    Sometimes, it’s nice to do nothing except sunbathe and kick back for a while.

    I missed stepping straight out of my accommodation into the bustling medina, so I would probably make it a short visit at the end of my trip.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is located near the Agdal area of Marrakech.

    KM 6, Route de l’Ourika,

    Tassoultante

    40000  Marrakech Morocco.

    It is possible to get a ‘Day Pass’ also.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is also a popular wedding venue.

    Image by Freebird.
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  • Fluffys.

    A Great Dessert Cafe  Inside Medina Mall.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fluffys is located on the first floor of Medina Mall

    It’s a great place to eat if you’re looking for somewhere with a friendly, relaxing atmosphere.

    The staff speak good English and are efficient and quick.

    Fluffys has a Bistro style appearance and serves high-quality food.

    The chef is visible to the guests, and you can watch him creating the dishes in front of you.

    I had a tomato pasta dish, and it was absolutely delicious.

    The pasta was exactly how I liked it and presented beautifully.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    My pancake dessert was huge, and I couldn’t finish it.

    It was incredible and unlike anything I’ve had before.

    Inside the restaurant, the decor is modern and contemporary.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff were friendly and chatty, they appeared to really enjoy working here.

    It was lovely sitting in a quiet spot, with all the mayhem of the medina outside bustling away as usual.

    I felt quite isolated from it all and enjoyed the escape for a while.

    Medina Mall has some nice, slightly upmarket outlets inside, and there are a couple of restaurants.

    Fluffys was a definite favourite of mine and terrific value for money.

    There is a good selection of food and beverages on the menu, and I chose a fruit smoothie, which was perfect.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Medina Mall is in a slightly quieter area of the medina, not far from Tinsmiths Square.

    Fluffys is popular for breakfast and lunch. However, you don’t need to book.

    Just show up and wait to be seated.

    I arrived early evening and I was seated immediately.

    I chose to sit outside the entrance where I could watch the chef preparing the food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fluffys is a dessert cafe chain with outlets in other parts of the world.

    They are popular for their award winning Japanese souffle pancakes, and I can highly recommend them.

    They come in flavours, including strawberry, macha,tiramisu, pistachio, and creme brulee.

    I had salted caramel with Moroccan rose flavoured ice cream.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Medina Mall is on;

    91. Hommane Fetouaki

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    It is open from 9.30 am until 11.00pm daily.

    Fluffys is one of the most exciting places I eaten in.

    The brunch courses look amazing. There are plenty of choices, including dishes suitable for vegetarians.

    I will definitely visit again to work my way through the tantalising menu.

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  • Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    A popular Italian restaurant in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Pepe Nero is an exceptionally good restaurant tucked away on a quiet street in the medina.

    It is an Italian restaurant, but they also serve delicious Moroccan cuisine.

    The setting is absolutely stunning, with a pretty courtyard surrounded by beautiful foliage and gentle trickling fountains.

    I ate here a few times during my visit to Marrakech, and I enjoyed the food immensely on both occasions.

    The menu is creative, and they also have delicious pasta dishes suitable for vegetarians like myself.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had pasta with truffle, and it was a delight on the senses, beautifully presented and cooked to perfection.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The desert menu is also good, with a fine selection of light deserts to compliment the main course.

    Alcohol is served, including a selection of wines, cocktails, and spirits.

    The ambience is relaxing with music playing in the background.

    It can get slightly livelier in the evening, but it never becomes overly stimulating and still maintains a sense of calm.

    Despite the music tempo, I never had to raise my voice to be heard. The atmosphere is still calm and conducive to a pleasant, romantic evening.

    Pepe Nero is open for lunch and dinner, and there are two courtyards as well as a nice enclosed dining area.

    Guests can sit around the pool where bougainvillaea drapes down the wall or in the second courtyard area with a couple of attractive fountains, burbling in the background.

    If the weather is cooler, the internal dining area is elegant and refined.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff at Pepe Nero are professional and friendly.

    They are knowledgeable and help you to make the right choices when choosing from the menu.

    The experience of eating here was worth every dirham..

    Good food, a beautiful, unpretentious environment, and excellent service combined to ensure the perfect dining experience.

    I would certainly recommend Pepe Nero if you enjoy Italian food and want a change from Tagine or couscous.

    There is a small car park close to the restaurant also.

    Pepe Nero is also a riad called Riyadh Al Moussika, I have written an article about staying here.

    Opening hours for the restaurant are;

    1.00pm until 4.00pm daily.

    6.00pm until 11.30 daily.

    The address is;

    17 Derb Cherkaoul

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Booking is advisable as this is a popular restaurant and can get busy, especially during the evening.

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  • Riyadh Al Moussika

    A beautiful riad, above Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was fortunate enough to stay at Riyadh Al Moussika in the medina.

    The interior was absolutely spectacular as it was once home to the Pasha of Marrakech.

    The two courtyards were beautifully preserved and a haven of peace and tranquillity in the morning.

    The sound of birdsong and the gentle trickle of water from the fountains was a lovely way to begin each day.

    The riad is also a popular Italian restaurant called Pepe Nero, which I feature in a separate article.

    Once the restaurant is open for business, music is playing, but during the afternoon, between 4 and 6, it is peaceful and relaxing.

    The evenings can become livelier, so earplugs are a must if you wish to retire to bed early as the tempo of the music is slightly louder.

    I didn’t really find this an issue, and the restaurant closes at 11.30pm, becoming quiet very quickly afterwards.

    The rooms are huge and feel very noble.

    The blue suite is incredibly grand, fit for royalty.

    I stayed in the single room, and it was perfectly adequate for me with all the amenities I required.

    Rooms in riads are generally quite dark to keep them cool, but this is part of the authenticity of them.

    Riyadh Al Moussika is a very traditional riad, with intricate tilework adorning the water features and stunning plants, trees, and bougainvillaea climbing the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is separated into private areas for guests, with sun loungers to absorb some  hot African sun.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was a pleasurable experience, sipping a Disaronno and listening to the burbling fountain whilst gazing into the clear pool surrounded by exotic foliage.

    The location of Riyadh Al Moussika is also very good.

    It is in a quiet area with a small carpark close by.

    There are several restaurants and cafes situated a ‘stones throw’ away, including Mandala Society.

    The staff were very professional but still maintained a friendly, welcoming atmosphere.

    They were helpful and polite at all times.

    Complimentary water and mint tea were available for guests each day, which was a nice touch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The breakfast was a good start to each day and consisted of typical Moroccan sweet treats with the option of omelette also.

    Msemen pancakes, croissants,  cheese, fruit, and yoghurt, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffee all served in the tranquil courtyard.

    I really enjoyed my stay in Riyadh Al Moussika and would highly recommend it.

    The music is definitely something to bear in mind if you are someone who likes to retire early, but as a solo traveller, it took away the feelings of isolation that can sometimes occur.

    Taking a pair of earplugs definitely helped.

    The excellent service and exquisite environment made up for the slight inconvenience of the bustling restaurant vibe.

    Riyadh Al Moussika can be located at;

    62 Derb Boutouil,

    Marrakech 40000

    Morocco.

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