About me

My name is Freebird Tracey, and I’m a regular visitor to the magical city of Marrakech.
I have travelled to many places and experienced many different cultures, but for some reason Marrakech keeps pulling me back.
From the first time I heard Crosby Stills and Nash singing Marrakesh Express and read about the famous Hippie trails of the 1960s, I was desperate to go there and see for myself.
I wanted to experience the intensity of Jamaa El Fna and visit the famous hangouts I’d read about.
I wanted to get lost in the souks and visit the spectacular palaces, with their exuberant Islamic architecture.
I dreamed of tasting the traditional cuisine that Marrakech is famous for and immersing myself in the vibrant culture.
However, I had to wait patiently..
I had four children and two dogs to look after, for a long time, they were my life and had to be my priority.
Raising a family made travelling to exotic locations difficult and being a single mum I had to work very hard, just to provide the basics.
Fast forward to the present.
I am now a free spirit living my best life..
I became a solo-female traveller five years ago, and since then, I have never looked back.
I spend most of my spare time writing my memoirs and expressing my creativity in different ways.
When I’m not travelling to Marrakech, I’m busy planning my next trip and planning the perfect itinerary for myself and others.
You could say, I’m pretty much hooked..

I began this blog as a way of documenting my time in Marrakech, and sharing the wonderful experiences I have had with other people.
It keeps every experience alive for me, a constant reminder of some of the most delightful places I’ve visited and incredible restaurants I have dined in.
I would also like it to be the perfect guide for other people.
A fingertip tour around Marrakech to help them plan their own special journey to the red city.
I feature genuine reviews of trips and excursions, the best places for a spot of lunch and some fine dining..
Ideas to make your time in Marrakesh the best it can be, including useful tips and things you should know before travelling.
I am a no nonsense purveyor of truths. If I don’t like something, I will say so. I only share authentic and honest insights into whatever I experience.
If I think there is room for improvement, I’ll indicate that in my review.
This is no ordinary blog..
This is a vehicle showcasing the very best that the North African city of Marrakech has to offer.
It’s an easy to navigate road map around the city of Arabian Nights, immersing you in the culture dating back over 1000 years.
It’s an introduction to the Amazigh and their fascinating culture.
I want you to revel in the delights of this incredible and exciting destination as much as I do..
All help and advice is inclusive of families, solo travellers, budget travellers and those of you with specific dietary requirements.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions you’d like me to answer.
With all that said..
I invite you all to come along with me and discover what makes Marrakech ‘My Happy Place’
Happy reading…
http://marrakechtravel5.com
- DAR BOUCHAIB.

If you are fed up with haggling every time you want to buy something, there is a huge store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.
Here, you will find everything that’s for sale in the souks at a fixed price.
The perfumed oils are of a very high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several oils together.

Image by Freebird Tracey. On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.


Images by Freebird Tracey. On the first floor, exquisite furniture, mirrors, Berber rugs, and other beautiful handmade pieces to furnish your home with.
They also ship worldwide.
The staff are incredibly helpful and not pushy at all.
The store is huge and worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship and detail that’s gone into creating each piece.



Images by Freebird Tracey. The Kasbah is a 15 – to 20-minute walk from the main square with plenty of interesting shops and good restaurants along the way.
Here, you will find the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.
Dar Bouchaib can be found on;
Rue de La Kasbah,
Marrakech 40000.
Opening times are;
Daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm.
Bank holiday hours may differ.
Although part of visiting Marrakech is to enjoy shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling and knowing how much you should be paying for something can become slightly stressful.
Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof.
The prices are fixed and realistic.
Make it part of your visit to the Kasbah area.
You won’t be disappointed.


Images by Freebird Tracey. For more information, see my other posts or contact me via the email address below..
- LA PERGOLA ROOFTOP BAR.

La Pergola rooftop bar is quite a little jungle.
Situated in the medina, close to Jamaa El Fna, La Pergola is a popular restaurant serving food and alcohol including cocktails.
The beautiful palm trees that grow up from the courtyard of Cafe Arabe make the ambience very tranquil and relaxing.
Part of Riad Monceau, La Pergola is open to the public and a busy place, so booking for an evening meal or cocktails is recommended.
I spent an hour enjoying some peace and calm during the afternoon.
It was much quieter, and I found it very relaxing sitting amongst the exotic trees and plants.
I enjoyed the fresh smoothies, which were beautifully presented with attention to detail.


Image by Freebird Tracey. Like most places serving alcohol in the medina, it is quite pricey.
The stunning surroundings make it worthwhile a visit, and although I didn’t try the food, the menu looked very good.



Images by Freebird Tracey. During the evening, you can hear the live jazz band in Le Bistro Arabe below the bar.
The afternoon is a more chilled out occasion, quieter and less packed with people.
I visited during the evening on previous trips to Marrakech, and although I enjoyed it, be prepared for how busy it can get if you’re thinking about going there.
Booking beforehand guarantees you a seat.
La Pergola is open daily from noon until 11.00pm.
The address is;
7/8 Riad Zitoun Lakdim.
Marrakech 40000
Morrocco.
Situated in Riad Monceau, directly above Le Bistro Arabe.

Image by Freebird Tracey. There are plenty of great shops in this area, and a stop off in La Pergola makes a welcome break from sightseeing.

Image by Freebird Tracey. For more information, contact me via the email address below;
- MO’S MO’S RESTAURANT.

Mo Mo’s restaurant is a colourful and tastefully decorated restaurant in the medina.
Inside, the tables are set with attractive earthenware, and there is so much to catch your eye.





Images by Freebird Tracey. The rooftop is very popular and the perfect place to watch the sun set over the medina.
The atmosphere is tranquil despite the popularity of this relatively new restaurant.

Image by Freebird Tracey. I only had a drink because the opening time for serving dinner was 6.00pm, and the tables were filling up rapidly.
The waiters were very busy seating everyone, and I didn’t have time to wait for all the orders to be taken.
However, the food on the menu looked interesting and moderately priced, so I shall return in the near future to sample some of it.

Image by Freebird Tracey. Mo Mo’s is popular with all age groups, and there is plenty of space inside and out to accommodate a large number of people.
I sat on the rooftop watching the sunset over Koutoubia Mosque before heading inside, where it was less busy to admire the quirky, vibrant decor.
There is certainly plenty to look at, and it’s very instagrammable.
People were taking photos of the fascinating decor. It’s quite different from other places in the medina, yet still exudes the same charm.
Mo Mo’s serve Mediterranean food alongside traditional Moroccan specialities.
Some reviews say that the menu is limited, but they enjoyed the food and rated it as high quality.
The breakfast is an innovative take on a full English breakfast served in a tagine.
I can vouch for the drinks.
They were beautifully presented and fresh, and there was a good choice.
I had a lovely smoothie and I could taste each individual fruit, it was very healthy.

Image by Freebird Tracey. If you’re looking for somewhere with an explosion of colour, traditional yet with a modern twist, this is the perfect place.
It is exciting and classy at the same time.
I will definitely be returning to try the dishes on the menu..
Mo Mo’s is open daily from 11.00am to 12.00am
The address is;
1 Riad Zitoun, Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

For more information, contact me via the email address below;
- EL BADI PALACE.

El Badi Palace was built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor of the Saadian dynasty.
The palace was built to showcase the considerable wealth of the Saadian dynasty and was a prime example of Islamic architecture and exquisite craftsmanship.
Using both Moroccan and European influences, the palace was beautifully decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, marble arches, and ornate carvings.
The palace was home to the sultans harem and included over 500 women.
Now, only the ruins remain.
After Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor died in 1603, the palace fell into neglect and was subsequently stripped away with the materials being used for other buildings in Morocco.
The palace is certainly worth a visit if you want to learn about the history of Marrakech and the ruling elite centuries ago.
The exhibition space contains the Almoravid Minbar, which is a finely decorated pulpit that once stood in the Koutoubia Mosque.
It also hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions.
The underground chambers contain information and photographs about the palaces history.

Image by Freebird Tracey. The palace was badly damaged during the earthquake in 2023, and renovations have taken place to repair the cracks in the walls.
El Badi Palace is situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech and a popular tourist attraction.
The courtyards are impressive, and the nesting storks on the towers give it a magical feel.




Images by Freebird Tracey. You get a sense of the grandeur of the Saadian dynasty, and there’s a feeling of peace and tranquillity within the walls of the once opulent palace.
El Badi Palace is open every day from 9.00am to 5.00pm and costs 100 dirhams to enter.


Images by Freebird Tracey. For more information, contact me via the email address below;
- SAADIAN TOMBS.

One of the tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.
Rediscovered in 1917, they have become a historical landmark dating back from the late sixteenth century.
Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor and his family.
The architecture is very impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and carrara marble.
The main mausoleum is incredible, and there are usually very long queues to get to see it.
It’s definitely recommended to arrive early to avoid waiting for sometimes more than an hour in the heat.
The Saadian tombs are very decadent, with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles.
They showcase the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.




Images by Freebird Tracey. Hidden for centuries, they were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.
Located in the Kasbah next to the mosque, the opening times are;
9.00am – 5.00pm
The price of entry is 70 dirhams.


Images by Freebird Tracey. For more details, contact me via the email address below;
- 1112 MORROCCAN TEA HOUSE.

1112 Morroccan Tea House is absolutely stunning.
It is the first Moroccan tea house in marrakech, serving 12 teas from the 12 areas of Morrocco.
Set inside a former riad, it is a beautiful place to come and sample the 12 delicious teas on offer, along with modern oriental cakes.
They serve breakfast and lunch.
The food is nicely presented with table service, tasty and varied.
There is a selection of light snacks available on the menu also.


Images by Freebird Tracey. The name 1112 signifies the date 1700 in the gregorian calendar and is etched into the wooden ceiling of the riad.
The riad was beautifully restored by a morroccan family who have been renowned for their expertise in the restoration of such properties since the 1990s.
The architecture is beautiful. Wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and exotic plants make it a delightful environment for sitting and reflecting on the past history of the importance of tea in Morrocco.
There are interesting facts about the introduction of tea into Morocco and a shop selling nicely packaged tea if you’re looking for a gift to take home with you.



Images by Freebird Tracey. 1112 has a nice rooftop.
After exploring the museum, it is worthwhile taking a look around this exquisite riad and savouring the whole experience.


Images by Freebird Tracey. Situated close to Ben Youssef, the address is;
12 Place De La Kissariat, Ben Youssef,
Marrakech.
It is open for breakfast and lunch.

Image by Freebird Tracey. For more details,
- KAFE MERSTAN.

Kafe Merstan restaurant and rooftop terrace is located near the spice square and vegetable market in the medina.
They serve traditional Morroccan food, and prices are very reasonable.
I had one of the tastiest tagines here, and the overall quality of the food was good.


Image by Freebird Tracey. It’s popular during sunset, and tourists arrive to watch the sun go down from the rooftop.
It’s quite spectacular and can get quite busy at this time of evening.
The interior is traditional with a fairly modern twist.



Images by Freebird Tracey. It’s a no frills restaurant, and the price reflects this.
Seating is upstairs on the rooftop, so people with mobility issues may not find it easy.
Payment is by card or cash. However, there’s a minimum of 200 MAD for card payment.
They will accept less but expect a few grumbles of disapproval.
The address for Kafe Merstan is 2 Souk Chaaria Kast Benahid, Marrakech 40000.
Opening hours are 12.00 until
10.00pm.
The restaurant is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef and Museum of Marrakech, so it’s in a strategic position and ideal for taking a break from sightseeing.
Kafe Merstan offers a good selection of vegetarian dishes, including a very tasty vegetable pastilla.

Image by Freebird Tracey. For more details about places to eat in Marrakesh, contact me via the email address below;
- LA FERME MEDINA.

Imagine sitting in an oasis, surrounded by tropical plants, the sound of trickling water from a fountain and birds chirping.
This is what you will experience when you visit La Ferme medina.
The atmosphere is serene and calm, with several cosy nooks to sit and relax.








Images by Freebird Tracey. Not only is it a restaurant serving delicious food, but it is a beautiful place to stay with really nice rooms.
All of the rooms have balconies looking down on the jungle below and are beautifully furnished.
I only ate here.
I thoroughly enjoyed sitting in such a tranquil environment, looking down from my table above the beautiful flora and fauna.
It felt like an oasis, a welcome retreat from the busy souks and streams of tourists.
The food was delicious, and the service was very good.
The waiters were friendly and attentive.
After a busy morning shopping in the maze of souks and dodging motorcycles, it was lovely to just sit in peace.
You could be forgiven for thinking you’d been transported to a completely different place altogether.
I chose the avocado toast, followed by a delicious cheesecake.
My brunch was tasty, filling, and nicely presented.
Attention to detail is everything here..


Image by Freebird Tracey. The address for La Ferme medina is;
236 Rue Riad Laarous
Marrakech 40000 Morocco.
Opening times are,
7.00am until 22.00pm
They serve breakfast, brunch, and dinner.
There is live music playing most evenings
Food is organically produced and dedicated to animal care.
The restaurant also serves vegetarian, vegan, and halal dishes.

Image by Freebird Tracey. For more information about places to eat in Marrakesh,
Contact me via the email address below..
- RIAD ZOUHOUR.

Riad Zouhour is an absolutely charming riad in the medina.
It is visually stunning with blue and white zellige tiles and exotic plants.
Intricately carved wooden doors and ornate traditional window frames.



Interior courtyard of riad Zouhour/images Freebird Tracey. The rooftop is an oasis of wonderful flowers and tropical plants, with plenty of places to sit and admire the beautiful surroundings.
There is also a small pool for cooling off in.







Rooftop of riad Zouhour/images Freebird Tracey. The rooms are spacious and beautifully decorated in a traditional yet modern style, with large private bathrooms containing nice fragrant products for use in the shower.




A room in riad Zouhour/ images Freebird Tracey. The food is also very good.
I loved the vegetable tagine and seasonal salad that I had served to me on arrival at the riad.
My flight had been delayed, yet it was still hot and beautifully presented despite the time of night I eventually arrived.


The staff are attentive and kind, going out of their way to make you feel welcome.
Nothing is any trouble, and the overall atmosphere is relaxed and professional.
The riad exudes luxury, yet it’s affordable and in a strategic location close to the centre of all the action.
Riad Zouhour is a popular riad and gets booked up quickly, so booking in advance is recommended.
As with most riads in the medina, they can also organise tours and excursions for you.
The address is;
33 Derb Snane,
Medina 40000
Marrakech Morocco.
Check-in time is,
00:00 until 23.30 hours.
Check-out time is,
5.00 until 00:00
This is a riad I would highly recommend.
I enjoyed my stay here, and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back.
I loved the views from the rooftop, the pretty flowers and plants, and the overall treatment of the guests.
It truly is a gem in the busy medina, a haven of peace and tranquillity.
It is beautifully restored, and cleanliness is a priority here..

For more details about places to stay in Marrakesh, contact me via the email address below:
- FOOD YOU SHOULD TRY IN MARRAKECH.

Marrakech is a culinary delight for all foodies out there.
The streets are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit.
Herbs and spices galore.
The aromatic aroma of street food fills the air, tempting the tastebuds.
Fine restaurants with impeccable service, in beautiful surroundings, call out to you to come inside and sample their cuisine.
But where do you start?
What do you order?
If you’re anything like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of places you’re visiting.
I particularly enjoy sampling the signature dishes of a region and eating the same food that locals do.
It’s a way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.
The locals are very hospitable people and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family.
With an overwhelming choice of food to choose from, you may need a little help to decide what to try..


Images by Freebird Tracey. The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.
Tagine is the name of the clay or ceramic pot that the dish is cooked in.
It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre.
Chicken or lamb is the most popular.
Often, dates, olives, fresh lemon, and spices are added for flavour, and everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine.


Chicken tagine/image Freebird Tracey. Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables.
It is eaten religiously on Fridays.
In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails for sale.
Tourists are targeted by street food vendors to try snails, and those who actually do say that they quite enjoyed the experience.
Apparently, broth they’re cooked in is quite tasty, and although it’s an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible.
Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us, but it appears to be popular in the main square and a regular sight on display.
The locals sit at street stalls eagerly munching on the spit roasted mutton, enjoying every morsel.

Snails in a broth/image Freebird Tracey. Every dish is served with traditional bread in Marrakech. It is freshly baked each morning and delicious served warm.
Tangier is also a popular dish.
It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam.
Traditionally, the tangier is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day.
It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread.
The meat is incredibly tender and falls off the bone.

Tangier cooking in the Hammam/image Freebird Tracey. There are plenty of street food vendors in the medina, tucked away in the souks.
They serve really good quality food and it’s cheap.
There is a row of street food vendors who only sell tangiers, and this is very popular with locals and tourists alike.

Image by Freebird Tracey. Taking a street food tour is a great way to get to try the best places. There are several tours available during the daytime or evening.

Street food vendor in the medina/image by Freebird Tracey. Marrakech caters to vegetarians and vegans also, with a good choice of quality food including excellent salads, delicious vegetable tagine and couscous.



Images by Freebird Tracey. Several Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food.
Olives are served with tea and other beverages as a complimentary side.
They can be spicy or plain, always fresh, and the perfect aperitif.
They are deliciously fresh when bought straight from the vendors themselves.

Complimentary olives/image Freebird Tracey. The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are incredibly good, and the desserts served after the main course of a meal are beautiful.
The choice on most menus is really good and varied.
There’s no point watching your waistline here..
Dates are hugely popular, and medjool dates are known as ‘ fruits of the King’, so make sure to try some.
You won’t be disappointed.
Fresh fruit is for sale everywhere around the medina and incorporated into tantalising sweet dishes that make your mouth water.
NB: I have a separate post about smoothies and juices in Marrakesh.




Beautiful cheesecake and sweets in Marrakesh/image Freebird Tracey. Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food.
With so much to choose from and so many different dishes and flavours to try, you would need months to eat your way through it all.
Not only is there a great variety of interesting and tasty food, but it’s beautifully presented too.
Imagine sitting in the most beautiful setting, next to exotic plants, and trickling fountains.
That’s my experience of eating in Marrakesh..

112 Tea House/image Freebird Tracey. For more information on places to dine, use the email address below.
- RIAD BOHEMIAN JUNGLE.

The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech.
It exudes charm and authenticity.
The interior decor is simply captivating, with several tastily put-together nooks and crannies to sit and take in its splendour.





Interior of the Bohemian Jungle/ Images Freebird Tracey. The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in.
The green tiles and exotic plants make it a stunning focal point of the riad.


Interior pool/images Freebird Tracey. The rooftop is magical. Surrounded by pretty, draping flowers, plants, and lanterns.
There are several areas to hang out in.
A balinese bed for relaxing on and a cerise, romantic boudoir area, where the staff play traditional tuareg music.
There are areas to catch a spot of sunshine and places to sit where you are shaded.
This is perfect for when the hot morroccan sun reaches its highest temperature in the day.






Photos of the rooftop at the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey. The staff are relaxed and friendly, and the vibe is laid back and chilled.
The riad is run by three professional, yet charismatic young men from the Sahara region.
Their knowledge of the area is invaluable, and they enjoy sharing a little piece of their fascinating culture with guests.
The breakfasts are varied and wholesome, consisting of a mix of traditional pancakes, honey, and jam.
Fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.
Fresh orange juice and coffee.

Image Freebird Tracey. When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits, whilst you are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.
This is helpful for finding your way back to the riad.
The fragrance inside is intoxicating.
Orange blossom and cinnamon oil gently floats on the air, the lamps glow, and Berber music plays subtly in the background.
I never wanted to leave..
I was so happy sitting in the riad, taking in the beauty and experiencing the wonder of such a magnificent place..
Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly.
If you are looking for TVs and a modern approach to your trip to Marrakech, you won’t find it here.
Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture, lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.
It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and several nice shops and restaurants.
The address is;
Derb al Maada
Hay azbezte
39 Medina, Medina 40030
Marrakech, Morrocco.
Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can also be arranged by this riad.
They are good value for money and well organised.

Enjoying a moment of tranquillity at the Bohemian Jungle. 
Sunrise from the rooftop of the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey. - IS MARRAKECH SAFE FOR SOLO FEMALE TRAVELLERS?

I would say that Marrakech is perfectly safe for women who travel alone.
The overall crime rate is relatively low, and most female travellers have a wonderful experience.
There are certain things to consider, however.
Morroccan women dress modestly.
How you want to be treated will depend on how you present yourself.
Marrakech is liberal, but showing too much flesh would be considered inappropriate.
Whilst you’re not expecting to adopt the hijab, you will certainly be regarded favourably if you dress slightly more conservatively.
Long, silk, or cotton dresses are perfect and keep you cool at the same time.
Palazzo trousers are comfortable and elegant.
I wore turbans, and I loved that my hair was tucked away, keeping me from feeling too hot whilst feeling sophisticated.

The people in Marrakesh are friendly and helpful.
There may be an occasional situation where you may be asked if you need help to find your riad or the main square.
Simply decline the offer politely and go about your business.
Stand your ground when negotiating a price for something. Show you are confident and don’t be afraid to walk away if you’re not happy.
Some men may cat call or make comments, which may be slightly intrusive.
Ignore them and move away. If anyone follows you, find a shop vendor or restaurant to sit in or threaten to find a police officer.
It’s rare that this happens, though..
Knowing a few words in Arabic or French is always useful.
‘Non merci’ or ‘La Shukran’ for ‘no thank you’ should suffice.
On the whole, I have never felt uncomfortable as a solo female traveller in Marrakech.
There are plenty of us about wandering through the souks and enjoying the tourist hot-spots.
Consider using a tour guide or joining a guided tour of the medina if you’re slightly anxious about exploring yourself or it’s your first time.
There are night tours, street food tours, and registered guides when visiting the local attractions.
In summary, Marrakech is a great place to visit as a solo female traveller.
Most people can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city.
Educate yourself on the cultural norms and differences and respect the local customs and traditions, and you will be perfectly safe.
You will have a truly wonderful time.

If you want help to put together the perfect itinerary or simply helpful tips, subscribe and use the link below:
- DOES MARRAKECH CATER FOR VEGETARIANS AND VEGANS?

Whilst it’s true that Marrakech is a meat eaters’ paradise, there are plenty of great restaurants and cafes serving vegetarian and vegan food.
Not being a meat eater myself, I was initially concerned that I’d spend my time in Marrakesh living off the delicious olives on sale in the souks.
I was pleasantly surprised.
There are a number of restaurants popping up that serve only vegetarian and vegan food.
One I highly recommend is La Famille.
Run solely by women,and in an outdoor setting, the food was incredibly good.


Lunch at La Famille. There are also plenty of choices for non meat eaters on the menu in most eateries around the medina.
Sumptuous vegetable tagine, vegetable couscous, salads, and pasta dishes, to name just a few.
I never had a problem sourcing tasty and beautifully prepared meals whilst staying in Marrakesh.
The little cafes tucked away in the souks were slightly less accommodating, but if it’s a quick snack you’re looking for, the fresh olives and delicious pastries are a wonderful treat.
The abundance of seasonal vegetables, freshly cooked, were mouth wateringly delightful.


Vegetable tagine with olives and egg plant. Harissa soup was also a favourite, deliciously tasty, served with traditional Morroccan bread.

Harissa soup. I highly recommend trying the soup.
Some restaurants serve healthy brunch, I loved the avocado toast at La Ferme.

Avocado toast beautiful presented at La Ferme Medina. Please don’t be put off visiting Marrakech because you consider it to be a meat eaters paradise only.
By doing a little bit of research before travelling, you will find a good selection of fine restaurants and cafes serving authentic and traditional Morroccan cuisine that don’t include animal products.
A few I recommend are;
La Famille
La Ferme
Enjoy your meal, veggie lovers.
Mandala Society.
Broc The Kasbah.
Palais Donab also does a lovely vegetable tagine, and it’s a beautiful place to have lunch or dinner.
NB. See my separate post about Palais Dar Donab.
Write down the restaurants you wish to try before travelling, including the address and opening times to save wandering around in the heat and getting tired.
Bon appetite.

Colourful, healthy salad in the medina. For more info or tips on putting together the perfect itinerary..
- POTENTIAL SCAMS TO BE AWARE OF WHEN VISITING MARRAKECH.

Marrakech is a safe place for travellers with a relatively low crime rate.
However, like any other destination, there are several things to be mindful of.
There are a few scams which visitors for the first time to Marrakech should know about.
.The road is closed.
This is a regular scam that can leave tourists confused.
You’re trying to locate your riad or a point of interest, and someone (usually a young male) tells you that the road ahead is closed.
He asks you your destination and offers to escort you via an alternative route.
Before you know it, you’re wandering endlessly through the souks until you arrive at his friends shop.
You’re still lost, and now you’re being offered mint tea whilst his friend brings out a multitude of exotic spices or rugs.
The male who took you there gets a commission if you cave in and buy something in order to get away.
If you’re approached in this way, a firm no thank you or La shoukran usually does the trick.
If he is very persistent, head to a nearest trader, and ask their advice about whether the road is closed or not.
Make your boundaries clear but remain polite and try not to get too impatient.
It can be difficult if you’re tired or overwhelmed, but showing your weakness will only show how vulnerable you are feeling, and you may become a target for more opportunists.
. I can take you to your riad.
When you first arrive in the medina, you are faced with a maze of alleyways and tunnels.
Often, your riad will be tucked away inside the souks or down one of these alleyways, hidden from view.
A tourist who looks as though they’re lost will invite the so-called ‘ helpful guide’ to your side who can show you exactly where you need to go.
He will escort you, taking the long route to your riad, and then demand a payment from you.
He may become quite persistent and insult you if you refuse to cough up.
I was taken off guard seconds away from my riad.
A young male basically nudged me along the narrow alleyway shoulder to shoulder. He demanded a payment, holding his hand out as I knocked on the door of my riad.
I told him I wasn’t lost and knew where I was going and that I hadn’t requested his help. He was quite cross with me and began insulting me in Arabic.
I stood my ground and ignored him until I was let inside my riad.
This can feel somewhat intimidating, but don’t give in.
Marrakech has a good police presence, and, in the worst case scenario, threatening them with this often does the trick.

.Over inflated prices for tourists.
There is a price for the attractions around the medina for tourists and a price for Moroccan residents.
This happens in many countries nowadays and you can’t protest much about it.
On the other hand, prices for street food and things you might wish to purchase in the souks are often much higher than they should be.
Learn to bargain with the salesperson, try dropping around 25%, and eventually, the pair of you will reach a price you’re both happy with.
Haggling is an art form, and it takes time to feel confident, but it’s a way of life in Marrakesh and can be quite a rewarding experience when you think you’ve managed to buy something for a fair price.
If you’re not happy, shop around. There are plenty of places selling the same goods around the souks.
. Gambling games in Jamaa El Fna.
During the evening, when the square comes to life, there are a few pockets of entertainment where gambling games take place.
These are scams that involve the winners working with the person in charge of the game.
They impersonate curious onlookers and ask to take part. They win and a prize is exchanged.
These are not genuine participants, and the likelihood of you winning a cash prize is virtually nil.
. Unofficial tour guides.
Some tourists mentioned being approached by unofficial tour guides whilst visiting some of the attractions around the medina.
Males who begin by asking where you’re from, then following you around telling you a brief history of the place.
After a short while, they ask for a fee for their time.
If you want a genuine tour guide, check the website of the attraction you’re visiting or Get Your Guide. Booking. Com also offers attractions with a guided tour and transport. Payment is upfront, and guides are very knowledgeable.
Marrakech is an amazing destination with so much to see and do.
I have pointed out a few negatives that you should be aware of.
You may not experience any of these things.
Locals are very friendly, and tourists are accepted and made to feel very welcome.
My advice is to make your boundaries clear from the start, get yourself some data with an Orange SIM for negotiating your way around the medina, and learn a few words of Arabic or French to help you say no thank you.
Like anywhere else in the world, keep your wits about you in crowded places, and stay calm.
You will have an incredible time in Marrakesh..

- WHAT DOES A PERFECT DAY IN MARRAKECH LOOK LIKE?

For myself, the perfect day in Marrakech begins by waking up early to watch the sunrise from the rooftop of my riad.

View from the rooftop of Riad Zouhour Listening to the birds chirping and the sound of the medina waking up.
Watching cats prowling along the rooftops and hearing the clatter of plates as staff in the riad prepare for breakfast.
The first glass of freshly squeezed orange juice hits the spot perfectly.
I enjoy a breakfast of pancakes with homemade jam and honey, bread, yoghurt, and fresh fruit.

Traditional riad breakfast. After a refreshing shower, I head out into the medina for a nice coffee in a cafe on the main square.
Sat outside, I observe the vendors setting up for the day. The entertainers get ready to entice the crowds of tourists and the local ladies on their way to the market for fresh spices.



The medina waking up. My next destination is the souks for a browse around before they get too busy.
I suggest just after 9.00 am. is the perfect time to go.
Vendors are eager for their first sale of the day, and bargaining is much easier.
The colourful array of beautiful things on offer is a sight to behold.






The cats gather for a few morsels off the butcher.

Cats are well looked after in the medina. I check out the wonderful Amazigh jewellery, the argan oil, and the beautiful ceramics and mirrors.



Amazigh jewellery in the souks. I buy one or two keepsakes and then decide it’s time for a snack.
A colourful outdoor cafe calls out to me, and I choose some delicious pastries with a mint tea.


It’s magical watching the world of Marrakech go by.
The motorcycles, the donkeys, all competing for space in the narrow streets.
Tourists wandering about, looking in awe at the beautiful colours around the medina.
After recharging my batteries, it’s time for some sightseeing.
I head towards Madrasa Ben Youssef and get some amazing photos of the stunning architecture.





The incredible Islamic architecture in the Mederssa Ben Youssef . The medina is beginning to get rather busy, so I make my way to the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque to sit quietly for a while.

Enjoying the stunning gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque. Afterwards, I treat myself to a sugarcane juice from a vendor outside.

Sugar cane vendor. The heat is now quite intense, so I return to the riad for a rest.
I head upstairs onto the rooftop for a rest from the busy medina and a spot of sunbathing.

Enjoying the peace and tranquillity in my riad. The call to prayer echos across the medina.
I read a book and order myself a glass of mint tea and a dish of olives.
Soon, it’s time to get ready for the evening.
I decide to go to La Pergola rooftop bar for a couple of cocktails.

It’s a lively atmosphere, and there’s a jazz band playing downstairs in the courtyard of Le Bistro Arabe.
I stop and listen for a while before heading towards Jamaa El Fna.
The energy is electric, food vendors touting for business, dancing, drumming, and crowds of people everywhere.
The smell of food makes me hungry, so I decide to find a nice place to dine.
I choose a place overlooking the square and observe the action from above, sat on the rooftop.

I enjoy a traditional tagine, flavourful and aromatic. I’m tempted by the exotic sounding smoothies on the menu and treat myself to one containing dried fruit.
I watch the beautiful sunset and everywhere has a golden glow.
Once dinner is finished, I nip into The Clock, situated in the square to listen to some traditional storytelling.
After an interesting time immersing myself in the culture of Morrocco, I decide to head back to my riad.
I pick up a few souvenirs along the way.

Back at the riad, I sit in the courtyard reflecting on my day.

The staff in the riad are happy to help me decide where to go the following day.
We chat about possibilities, and they help me put together the perfect plan for another day sightseeing.
I have had a perfect day…
I have experienced a different culture, tasted delicious food, watched a magnificent sunset, chatted with the locals, and navigated the maze of the souks successfully.
I have made a mental note of some of the things I want to buy to take home with me, and I look forward to haggling for a fair price before the end of my trip.
I fall asleep, happy and content, ready to do it all again tomorrow..

- LE JARDIN SECRET

Le Jardin Secret is located inside the medina.
It’s a hidden gem, a peaceful retreat from the madness of the souks, and Jamaa el Fna.
It is a little oasis with exotic plants and flowers where you can sit and enjoy the calm and beautiful surroundings.

There is a beautifully painted pergoda in the centre.
It comprises of two large gardens and one of the highest towers in the medina.
There is a museum, boutique, and two coffee shops on site also.

Le Jardin Secret dates back 400 years ago to the Saadian dynasty and was left to decay before being discovered and renovated in the nineteenth century.
It is the perfect example of Islamic art and architecture, and you can read all about its history inside the museum.



The beautiful gardens of Le Jardin Secret The gardens are simply beautiful with Cacti, palm trees, and other floral plants and shrubs.
The sound of birdsong and toads in the little pond feels like a world away from outside the walls.

As you wander around the tranquil gardens, you forget you are inside the busy medina, dodging motorcycles and donkey carts.

The stunning tilework on the floor. There are plenty of benches dotted around the gardens to sit peacefully and enjoy the tranquillity and beauty surrounding you.

Sat observing the peace and quiet inside Le Jardin Secret. Le Jardin Secret is located at,
121 Rue Mouassine
Marrakech 40030 Morocco.
Opening times vary depending on the time of the year.
It costs 100 dirhams to enter.
It is wheelchair user-friendly.

The cafe has a nice selection of sandwiches, pizzas, and salads with fruit and vegetable smoothies, hot and cold drinks, and homemade cakes.
- BAHIA PALACE

Bahia Palace is a stunning, 19th century palace in Marrakesh.
It’s definitely a must-see if you’re visiting the city, and it’s quite spectacular.

The rooms are decorated with stuccos, paintings, and mosaics to capture the essence of Islamic architecture.



The word Bahia means ‘brilliance’ in Arabic, reflecting the splendour of Islamic art and architecture.
It is necessary to book tickets prior to visiting the palace as queues can be extremely long.
They cost 70 dirhams each, and the palace is open from 8.00am-5.00pm daily.

The courtyard is stunning, and all the rooms open out onto it.
It is rather grand and very spacious with a fountain in the centre and intricate tile work typical of Morroccan culture.

There is also a 2-acre garden surrounding the palace.
There are orange trees lining the route up to the entrance of the palace.
When Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, the Bahia palace was used as a royal residence. This was until King Hassan II transferred it to the custody of the Moroccan Ministry of Culture.
The building then became a cultural icon and tourist attraction.
Bahia Palace is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakech.
It is best to arrive as close to opening time as possible to avoid the crowds.
That way, you can spend time reading about the history of the palace and enjoying the experience.

I would recommend visiting Bahia Palace.
It’s gives you a good understanding of Islamic culture and the fine craftsmanship that defines it.
If you enjoy looking at Islamic architecture, you could also visit Badi Palace in the Kasbah area of the city.
- HEALTHY JUICE AND SMOOTHIES IN MARRAKECH.

Marrakech is a smoothie lover’s dream come true.
One of the most refreshing, healthy drinks in and around the medina, smoothies can be found everywhere in Marrakesh.
Using the freshest fruit from the local market and packed with nutritional goodness, smoothies are the perfect start to the day.
I regularly choose the detoxifying smoothie for its positive health benefits and as a pick me up after a long, hot day exploring the medina.

Literally, everything goes into making a perfect smoothie, and in Marrakech, they seem to have perfected the art.
Fresh fruit, dried nuts, spiralina, cucumber, avocado, berries, banana, and spinach are just some of the ingredients that go into making the perfect smoothie.

Pomegranate juice is refreshing in a hot climate like Marrakech. 
Fresh strawberries for sale in the medina. Fresh juice is also a popular choice amongst tourists who need something to quench their thirst in the heat of the day.
Freshly squeezed lemon juice is tangy and exhilarating.
Served with fresh mint, it’s both aromatic and tasty.

Orange juice made from the oranges on the trees around the medina is a breakfast staple.
It is sunshine in a glass.

My absolute favourite juice was the freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.
It was a refreshing tonic and gave me a burst of energy.
I was flagging in the heat during a hike around Ouzoud Waterfall, and it instantly hit the spot.

Making pomegranate juice at Ouzoud Waterfall. The fruit juice vendors in the main square call you over to sample their mango and pineapple juice.
They offer a selection of different fruits to try, and it’s exciting watching them make it for you.
They are constantly trying to get your attention and offer you their service. There is so much competition.

Juice vendors in Jamaa el Fna. There are a few places I can recommend…
Pikala Cafe has an excellent choice of delicious, healthy juices and smoothies.
( See my separate post about Pikala Cafe).

Detox smoothies in Pikala Cafe. Also,
Le Ferme Medina.
Henna Art Cafe.
La Famille (vegetarian restaurant)
There are also plenty of rooftop restaurants around the main square to enjoy a well-deserved rest whilst sipping a refreshing cold juice or fruit smoothie and watching the action from above.
It is important to stay hydrated whilst out and about in the medina.
The temperature is very warm and humid.
Whilst I can not underestimate the power of a bottle of water and it being a necessity, it’s worth trying the fresh juice as a healthy alternative.
The vitamins and minerals are necessary to function for the hectic, busy schedule you may have planned.
Smoothies are a perfect way to give you a boost, and they taste delicious.
It’s all about balance.

- WHAT CLOTHING SHOULD I PACK FOR VISITING MARRAKECH?

Marrakech can get very hot in summer, and temperatures can exeed 40° Celsius.
Even the cooler months can feel very warm and humid, especially walking around the souks and popular points of interest.
Marrakech is also a conservative city with a majority Muslim population.
So, what should you wear to feel comfortable and respectable?
For female visitors, I would suggest palazzo trousers.
These are baggy and flowing, keeping you nice and cool.
They pair well with smart cotton blouses and can be worn underneath a maxi dress.
Lightweight cotton trousers also look smart, and neutral colours give a sophisticated, modest appearance.

Silk (including recycled sari silk) maxi dresses are very versatile and keep you cool. They can be worn with a lightweight pair of palazzo trousers underneath for extra modesty if the dress is thin.

Linen is perfect and always looks polished. It may get slightly creased, so I would suggest bringing along a portable steamer. They’re a life-saver and take up very little space in your suitcase.
However, most accommodations have an iron and laundry service.
Cotton tee-shirts and blouses, paired with a maxi skirt or loose-fitting trousers, are ideal and can look flattering with the right accessories.

Yoga pants are also perfect for a day exploring.
Headscarves are fashionable at the moment and can be used as a head covering whilst visiting some of the religious sights or as a convenient wrap for around the shoulders.

I like to wear turbans to cover my locs.
They keep my head and neck cool at the same time.
Silk scarves roll up really small and fit perfectly in your bag.
Marrakech is definitely more liberal than other morroccan cities. However, exposing too much flesh is definitely frowned upon.
You may attract unwanted attention from males and disapproval from local females spoiling your overall experience and making you feel uncomfortable.
How you present yourself will determine the kind of experience you have in Marrakesh.
In your hotel or riad, it’s perfectly fine to wear shorts and clothing for sunbathing, so pack something for those occasions also.
Males can wear knee-length shorts with linen or cotton short-sleeved shirts to look smart yet casual.
Many restaurants don’t accept men wearing sandals, but smart leather sliders are deemed to be acceptable.

Linen or cotton long trousers for men are ideal and keep the body cool.
Regarding men’s clothing choices, it’s definitely less important than the females.
I wouldn’t advise a male to walk around without a shirt on. That is best left for beach holidays.
So, staying comfortable and cool is the only thing they need to consider.
On the other hand, women are expected to respect the cultural norms of the country unless they’re going to the clubs in the Gueliz or Hivenage part of Marrakech.
This is where the clubs and bars are, and it’s acceptable to dress more glamorously here.
You can still look good in the appropriate clothing.
It’s about choosing nice accessories.
Regarding footwear, there is a lot of walking around the medina, so comfortable footwear is essential.
Trainers, pumps, or sandals are all acceptable.
I took a couple of outfits in my travel bag, and once I arrived, I bought the rest of my clothing in the souks.
It wasn’t too expensive, and I felt as if I blended in with the locals better.
I enjoyed wearing the traditional Moroccan dresses and ethnic style tops and trousers.

Finally, I have never needed to take a warm coat to Marrakech.
I usually take a shawl or cardigan, and it’s always been adequate, even in March.
Depending on what time of year you travel to Marrakech, you may be better thinking in terms of layers.
In winter, the evenings can get chilly.
A trip to Agafay desert can be very blustery, sitting watching the sunset.
A shawl or lightweight hoodie or jumper is perfect to enjoy the experience in the open air.
A thin skin underneath a long dress or trousers is usually enough.
I wore long sleeved tee-shirts underneath my dresses during the evenings.
Keeping your eyes on the weather forecast before travelling will help you to plan accordingly for your trip.
So to sum up,
Wearing comfortable clothing suitable for a day exploring the medina and tourist hot spots is the most important thing to consider.
You will walk a lot, and it can get humid.
To discourage unwanted attention and negative vibes from the locals, female travellers should refrain from dressing too provocatively.
Unless they’re in the bars and clubs, which are more liberally minded.
Choosing natural fibres is the best way to stay cool, and long, loose-fitting garments are ideal because they look modest and feminine.

Turbans are elegant and modest. Lastly, don’t forget to bring the sunscreen.
You don’t want to walk around looking like a lobster.
- CAFE ARABE
In the heart of the medina.

Open air seating inside café Arabe Cafe Arabe is a popular destination for people looking for Italian and Morroccan cuisine.
It is open all day serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
The open-air restaurant has a rooftop overlooking the medina and comfortable seating in the patio area.
The incredible views of the sunset draw people in to enjoy a cocktail on the rooftop, and it gets booked up very quickly.
I visited initially for a refreshing smoothie and a break from the intensity of the souks and the heat.
We were given breadsticks and olives to accompany them at no extra charge.

A much needed respite from the heat and a refreshing, healthy smoothie. I enjoyed looking out over the rooftops of the medina whilst relaxing.
There was no pressure to order something to eat, which was nice.
I decided to book a meal for later in the evening because the vibe was good inside the restaurant and the food looked delicious.

The view from one side of the restaurant to the other. One thing I particularly liked was the decor.
The exotic green colour leading upstairs to the terrace is absolutely stunning.
This was my favourite part of the restaurant, I could have sat here happily all afternoon.
The bathroom is very clean and well maintained.




The striking green colour on the way up to the terrace is beautiful. Returning later for a meal, it was incredibly busy, and the service was slower.
There were people queuing to be seated and waiters rushing about trying to cope with the demand.
We ordered pizzas, which were very tasty.
They took a long time to arrive, and we ended up having a few beers with olives whilst we waited.
We would have liked a desert, but we didn’t have time to wait for their arrival, so we decided to try again another day when it’s less busy.

We tried booking a table for the following evening but it was full.
I would suggest booking a few days in advance as Cafe Arabe appears to be very popular with tourists in the medina.
The prices are average considering the proximity to Jamaa El Fna, and the food was fairly decent.
It was a little bit too busy for me, and not surprisingly, the waiters appeared to be slightly under pressure.
There were a few discrepancies with my bill, which took ages to rectify. However, it didn’t spoil the overall enjoyment of our dining experience.
I would certainly come back just for a cold beer and to watch the sunset on the rooftop.
Cafe Arabe is open daily from 10.00am-12.00am
The address is,
184 Rue Mouassine
Marrakech 40000 Morocco
I would recommend booking a table for around 6.00pm this is the best time to come before it gets too busy.
- LIMONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Limoni italian restaurant is an excellent choice for diners who fancy a change from traditional Morroccan food.
They serve both authentic Italian cuisine and traditional Morroccan food.
The surroundings are incredibly pretty, with lemon and orange trees in the courtyard and lovely little lanterns hanging from them.
There is also a rooftop area and outdoor seating.
I chose a margarita pizza which was cooked to perfection. The base tasted really authentic.

I had a tirimisu for dessert, and that was also delicious.

At Limoni, they serve alcoholic beverages, including cocktails, wines, and spirits.
We finished our meal with a limoncello to celebrate our wonderful trip to Marrakech.

A toast to good health and happiness. There is a fireplace for cooler evenings during the winter months and outdoor seating.
It is recommended to book as the restaurant can get busy.
The address is,
40 Rue Diour Saboun
Marrakech 40000 Morrocco
Limoni Italian restaurant is suitable for people with limited mobility and wheelchair users.
They also have vegetarian and vegan options available on the menu.
They do excellent pasta dishes, and apparently, the camel hamburger is quite popular.
All the meals are reasonably priced and have good value for money.

The courtyard inside Pepe Nero. It was a nice dining experience at Limoni. Although it was quite busy, it felt intimate and relaxed without being pretentious.

From the outside, it appears rather unassuming.
Once you enter inside, it is spacious and inviting.
At the moment, it is temporarily closed.
- MONRIAD
A traditional riad close to Jamaa El Fna.

The colourful rooftop of Monriad. The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed in Monriad.
This is where my love affair with the medina began.
I had no idea what to expect and was absolutely amazed at the wonderful experience I had staying in a traditional riad for the first time.
Monriad was so pretty.
The courtyard was tranquil, and the sound of the trickling water and birds singing was blissful.



Inside Monriad The owner and her staff were friendly and helpful, greeting me with the ultimate respect and offering traditional mint tea with olives on arrival.

A welcoming glass of mint tea. I was given helpful advice about the area surrounding the riad and popular excursions I might wish to book.
She also suggested that I could eat dinner in the riad with the other guests and recommended places of interest close by.
The rooftop was glorious, and watching the sunrise up there each morning really was a blessing.
Sunrise from Monriad rooftop. My room was impeccable, with traditional and good quality furniture and a beautiful bathroom with a traditional basin.
The riad smelt amazing. Cleanliness was a top priority for the staff.
There was a large, traditional, carved wooden door into the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem.
I did eat dinner once inside the riad, and the food was quite good. It was popular with other guests who seemed to really enjoy dining inside the riad.
The breakfast was very good.
Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street.
It’s a pleasant, safe area with several cats and kittens who have also made the surrounding streets their home.

Making friends with the locals. Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace, yet it is peaceful and secluded.
It is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained a family and welcoming feel about it.
It remains my mission to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh, but I would definitely consider returning to Monriad.

Monriad can be found at the address below,
N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, Riad
Zitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.
- JAMAA EL FNA AT NIGHT.

Jamaa El Fna comes alive in the evening, attracting thousands of people from around Morrocco and tourists alike.
If you think it’s a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set.
Gone are the snake charmers and chained monkies to be replaced with food vendors and henna ladies, street musicians, and dancers.
Enjoying some performers in the square. The scene is organised chaos and a sensory overload.
The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted.
This is where people come together to meet each other, eat traditional street food, and sip mint tea and freshly squeezed juice.
The atmosphere is electric and vibrates with a magnetic energy.
Street vendors pursue potential customers with menus as they try to navigate their way through the crowds.

Sometimes, they can be very persistent, and you can feel somewhat intimidated.
The scene is very intense yet magical and exciting.
I really enjoyed myself, but other people say that they felt slightly overwhelmed.
It is unlike anything else you may have experienced.
There is so much to see. There are games being played, and a few little scams take place to trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.
Locals hang around, chat with each other, or play with a football close to the walls of the medina.
Sugarcane is sold from vending carts.
Bemused onlookers sit observing everything outside restaurants or from the rooftops in the square as the mosque rings out the call to prayer.
As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes intense and electrifying.
The square is transformed into a social hub where anything and everything takes place.
As night falls, the square comes alive. It’s an incredible experience.
The bright lights dazzle from the food vendors, and beautiful Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets light the way, giving off a wonderful glow.
The aroma of sheeps head cooking floats through the air.
Tourists tempted to try a bowl of snails queue to sample this culinary delight.
Drums beat, belly dancers perform to curious onlookers and acrobats show off their skills to the crowds.
From restaurant windows around the square, you can watch from a safe distance, but you can not escape the craziness.
It magnetises you.
The sheer madness, a complete assault on the senses in every way possible.

View from the window of a restaurant, overlooking Jamaa El Fna/image Freebird Tracey. It’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play, and they are determined to have a good time.
Jamaa El Fna at night is truly a spectacle to behold.
It’s lively, colourful, aromatic, and noisy.
Be sure to visit and become a part of what makes Marrakech so unique.
It’s certainly an eye-opener.
Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid obvious scams.
- KABANA ROOFTOP BAR.

Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.
They also have a good selection of dishes on the menu to suit all palates.
You enter the bar via steps, and from the road, it looks rather unassuming.

Entrance to Kabana rooftop bar. Once inside, it’s tastefully decorated with lanterns hanging everywhere and music playing on a large television screen.
It’s a very busy venue, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.
The bar is huge, and you can either sit inside or outside, where most people prefer to hang out.

Selection of alcoholic beverages at the bar. I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.

Other people had mixed reviews, saying waiting times were long and that it was pricey for food and drinks.
The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.
It was always full, and on the occasions we simply visited for cocktails, we couldn’t always be guaranteed a seat on the rooftop for a cocktail.
However, after waiting for approximately 30 minutes inside the bar area, we eventually got a place.
There is table service.
The unisex bathroom is a treat, beautifully decorated, modern, and traditional.
Kabana rooftop bar seems to be one of the more popular places for drinks in the medina and lacked authenticity for me.
The surroundings were nice with plenty of greenery, and the lanterns looked very pretty after dark.
There is a view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, but it’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.

View of Koutoubia Mosque. Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe, attracting all age groups.
It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,
11.00am-2.00am
They play DJ sets, and it’s a vibrant setting with a more relaxed dress code.
It is not an intimate place for a romantic meal, in my opinion, and I found it difficult to have a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.
However, there are plenty of traditional, authentic places in the medina to dine out if you prefer a quieter environment.
Kabana is a cocktail bar similar to the places in the new town, with the same energy but within walking distance for those people staying in the medina.
It’s definitely worth a visit.
The address is,
Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,
1 Rue Fatima Zahra,
40000 Marrakech Morocco.

A refreshing cocktail inside the Kabana rooftop bar. - PALAIS DAR DONAB
A beautiful, calm environment serving authentic Morroccon food.

Courtyard of Palais Dar Donab/image Freebird Tracey. Palais Dar Donab is a special treat.
The scent of orange blossom fills the air, and the sound of birds chirping gives a sense of peace and tranquillity whilst dining here.
This was one of my favourite places to visit and I absolutely loved it here.
I visited several times, sometimes for a glass of wine during the afternoon and a welcome break from sightseeing.

Image Freebird Tracey. The menu is extensive with food to suit most palates.
They serve a decent selection of excellent wines and beers.
I was very satisfied with the quality of food and enjoyed each meal I had in this fine restaurant.
The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I tried in Marrakesh, and the delicious smoothies were all beautifully presented.


Vegetable tagine with bread and olives. Palais Dar Donab is a high-end riad, where guests and visitors alike are welcome to come in and enjoy a quiet break from the busy medina.
As you relax in the calm, tranquil surroundings, you never feel rushed.
The gentle sound of the leaves on the trees and the trickling water make dining here a very pleasant experience.
They are open for lunch aswell as dinner.
The restaurant is set around a large pool and citrus trees, making it the perfect place for a nice rest.
Relaxing on the comfortable couches and admiring the intricate craftsmanship inside is a nice way to pass an hour or so.
I highly recommend trying Palais Dar Donab, not just for the quality of the food and friendly service, but for the peaceful atmosphere.
You come away feeling recharged and de-stressed.
You are ready to head back out into Jamaa El Fna and the souks again..

Enjoying a moment of quiet contemplation. Opening hours are,
Monday-Sunday
10.00am-10.30pm
Address is,
53 Dar el Basha-Bab,
Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.
The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit cards.
- ZEITOUNE CAFE.
Situated in Jamaa El Fna, Zeitoune cafe is the perfect place for a bite to eat.

The views from the balcony overlook the square, and it’s fun watching the daily activities take place whilst having a spot of lunch.
The food here was incredibly good, with large portions and varied and interesting choices on the menu.
The smoothies were gorgeous.
I enjoyed a hearty salad for lunch and the strawberry smoothie. Also, the obligatory olives are always welcome.


The lamb tagine with dried fruits was a popular choice amongst diners.
They serve excellent breakfasts with refreshing juices and good coffee, all reasonably priced.

Delicious pancakes at Zeitoune Cafe. Zeitoune is in a strategic location, offering great views, and the service is very good.
They are open all day until 1.00 am. and serve good cocktails.
They do not accept reservations, so it’s first come, first served.
They also accept card payments.
There are vegetarian and vegan options available.
There are steps up to the balcony and upper floors, but for people with limited mobility, there is outdoor seating available.
Zeitoune Cafes’ address is,
107 Place Jamaa El Fnaa
40000 Morocco
- SHOPPING IN THE MEDINA.
A spot of shopping or browsing around the busy souks in the medina is an exciting experience.


Berber jewellery in the souks. There is everything that you could possibly dream of.
As you meander through the maze of colourful alleyways, be prepared for a complete assault on the senses.
From beautiful jewellery to exotic spices, leather shoes and bags, to Morroccan lamps and ceramics.

Traditional Morroccan Babouches. The craftsmanship is astonishing, and you can find areas that are dedicated to certain products, such as leather goods and handmade Berber rugs or cushion covers.


It’s a lovely experience watching the locals making their goods to sell, and there is also the opportunity to have a go at making things yourself, such as a pair of babouche shoes to take home.
Berber rugs are beautifully displayed, and the assortment of colours and patterns are a feast for the eyes.
Argan oil and morroccan black soap, orange blossom oil, and gardenia float on the gentle breeze.




Oils and perfumes for sale in the souks. Wooden boxes ornately decorated with mother of pearl, chess sets, and traditional toys tempt you for the perfect souvenir to take back for family and friends.




Then there’s the nuts, sweets, and pastries.

Traditional sweets for sale in the souks. The olives and exotic fruits.
The medicinal herbs and spices, a cacophony of colours and fragrances.
Paintings and prints of traditional Morroccan doors and Berber people.


Hand painted pictures for sale. For the person who loves shopping, Marrakech is an absolute delight.
The souks are crowded and busy.
You have to dodge motorcycles and donkeys, vendors with carts, and tourists looking for the perfect gift.
You can expect to get lost, but that’s all part of the experience.
No one went into the souks and was never heard from again…
So, if you’re coming to Marrakech for the vibrant abundance of enticing goods on sale around the medina, fully immerse yourself in the experience and enjoy every minute.
It’s an unforgettable experience, one which will envoke the spirit of camel caravans and ancient trade routes from centuries ago.



A few helpful tips to make the most of your shopping experience:
Pace yourself.
The souks are very busy with motorcycles, donkeys, and tourists. It can feel slightly chaotic at times, especially in the heat.
Stop for a drink and rehydrate.
Rest for a while, try a spot of lunch on the rooftop of a cafe.
Be prepared to haggle. It may seem daunting at first, but you’ll soon get the hang of it.
Stay vigilant, and keep your wits about you.
Marrakech is a safe city, but pick pocketing can happen just like anywhere else in the world.
In crowded, narrow streets, keep your possessions safe in a closed bag at the front of your body.
If you’re lost, try to use Google maps or look for signs above your head pointing you back to Jamaa El Fna.
If you need help or advice, ask a shop vendor or try calling the riad you are staying in.
They may offer to collect you.
Don’t be tempted to accept directions from locals who may lead you to a friend or family members’ shop so they can get commission.
You may struggle to get away, and you may find yourself seated and drinking mint tea before you know it.


Colourful spice drums in the medina. Take time to shop around and walk away if you don’t think you’re being offered a fair price.
You will usually find yourself being called back, and a good price reached.
If not, the same items will most likely be found on sale elsewhere in the souks.
Exercise patience.
Remember, this is someone’s livelihood, and it’s a different culture to what you may be used to.
Wages are not very high for most people in Marrakesh, and tourists with money to spend are fair game for boosting the take-home salary of most vendors.
After all, they too have mouths to feed..
Although the souks can be overwhelming, they are an unforgettable shopping experience.
You will be dazzled by the vast number of weird and wonderful items on display.
The sights, sounds, and smells will stay with you a long time after you leave this fascinating city.

- LE MARRAKCHI RESTAURANT.
Situated in the heart of the medina,
52 Rue des Banques, Av.
Jamaa El Fna
40000 Morocco

A refreshing cocktail inside Marrakchi Restaurant. Le Marrakchi restaurant is beautifully intimate with dim lighting and candles lit on the tables, giving it a warm, cosy glow.
It’s a popular place to dine in the square, attracting a variety of people, including locals and tourists alike.
It’s a family-friendly establishment and has vegan options available.
The whole ambience is very special, and the vibe inside the restaurant is very relaxing despite it being a relatively busy place.
From the outside, the walls have a wonderful, red glow, which is very atmospheric and inviting.

Vegetable cous cous in Marrakchi restaurant. The food is good, I especially enjoyed the tagines which were served with a spicy, Harissa sauce at the side.
Service was also good, and the waiters were attentive and friendly.
The decor was traditionally Morroccan, and it felt cosy and romantic inside.
They serve alcohol including a wide range of beautifully presented cocktails.

Marrakchi serves a range of wines and cocktails. Prices are average for a licenced restaurant close to Jamaa El Fna.
I went back several times because the vibe was very pleasant, and I enjoyed listening to the sounds of the busy square outside the windows.
I didn’t feel rushed despite the fact that the restaurant was busy and people were coming and going throughout the evening.
There was a good selection of dishes on the menu, and I enjoyed the vegetarian options, including vegetable cous cous, typically eaten on Fridays in Marrakesh.
The bathroom facilities were excellent and smelt very fragrant.
There are a few steps to climb into the restaurant area, so it’s probably not suitable for people with mobility issues.
Opening hours are 12.00-12.00am daily.
They also offer a takeaway service if you don’t wish to visit in person.

Outside Le Marrakchi during the daytime. - MINT TEA AND MOROCCAN PASTRIES
Marrakech is full of delightful little places to sit, and people watch whilst sipping traditional mint tea.

A pretty little spot inside the medina. The colourful, boho decor and tempting pastries are the perfect way to take a much needed breather from the chaos of the souks.
Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming.
I found out that taking a break and pacing myself was the best way to thoroughly enjoy my time looking around and navigating the maze of the souks.
I especially loved the sweets and pastries on offer. They were absolutely delicious and complimented the refreshing mint tea perfectly.
There were so many to choose from, and I decided to treat myself to a selection of smaller pastries to see which were my favourites.

A tasty snack inside the medina. If you are shopping for gifts or spending time in the colourful, vibrant souks, I would highly recommend that you take some time out to rest and pace yourself.
Sitting outside a cute little tea shop and sampling something light and tasty is a great way to engage in the culture of Morrocco and its people.

Enjoying a breather from shopping. There are plenty of places offering mint tea and pastries dotted in and around the main square.
The sweets are an absolute treat, but you will be spoilt for choice.

The choice of delicious treats on offer in the souks. 

Part of the pleasure of exploring the medina is finding hidden gems where you can sit and gather yourself before venturing further.
Marrakech is known for its delicious pastries, and they’re a nice snack that won’t spoil your appetite for later in the day.

Watching the world go by in the medina. A few suggestions are,
. Medina Kawa Marrakech.
. La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices
. Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.
Also, check out my blog post about traditional Morroccan mint tea.
- RIAD BLUE BERBER.
A 17th Century Riad In A Great Location.

Courtyard with original tiles. Riad Blue Berber is a traditional riad close to some great places such as Bahia Palace, Dardar rooftop bar, Le Pegola, and a variety of restaurants and shops.
It is situated on my favourite side of the medina because it’s still lively yet a little less manic.
I find it easier to locate riads here than negotiating the souks late at night.
The riad is authentic and pretty with typically morroccan furnished suites.
There is a more intimate feel about this riad because it’s slightly smaller.
The owner, Habi, is a knowledgeable man who enjoys a chat with his guests. He is very hospitable, and the riad has a homely feel about it because of its staff.
Mona, the lady who cooks breakfast, doesn’t speak English, but every morning, she prepared a hearty breakfast for me.
The riad can organise tours, runs cooking classes, and will store your luggage after checking out.
The rooftop was large with different tiers to sit on and was being updated during my stay.

The rooftop of Riad Blue Berber. However, it would benefit from a lick of paint to make it perfect.
I always felt safe walking to and from Riad Blue Berber. This is also a bonus, especially for female solo travellers.
The traditional 17th century tiles on the floor of the courtyard give it a sense of character and charm.
Riad Blue Berber has four rooms.
Three of the rooms have air conditioning, and two have fans and heaters.
It is approximately 200 metres from Jamaa El Fna,
The address is;
5 Derb Jdid, Riad Zitoun Lakdim, kadim، 40040, Morocco

Courtyard in Riad Blue Berber. For more information about places to stay, contact me via the email address below;
- L’MDINA RESTAURANT.
An Excellent Place Close To The Square.

L’Mdina is a great little place serving authentic, good quality food close to Jamaa El Fna.
The meals are good value for money, and there’s a lively atmosphere with live music playing.
The menu is interesting and varied.
They serve traditional tangia (tender meat, cooked for hours in an earthenware pot, called a tangier)

The lamb was cooked to perfection, succulent and tender, and the aromatic aroma as it was tipped from the tangia onto the plate was mouthwatering.
The salads are delicious and creative, combining an interesting infusion of flavours.
I especially enjoyed the vegetable tagine, with root vegetables and chickpeas.

L’Mdina is a restaurant serving Moroccan, Mediterranean, and international dishes with a traditional gastronomic touch.
It is located about 2 minutes from the square.
They also have seating available for people, simply wanting a coffee or just a drink at the bar, whilst listening to some live music.
The menu is suitable for vegetarians with vegan options also available.
The restaurant seats 60 people and is beautifully decorated with an authentic Moroccan theme.

The musicians played a mix of traditional Morroccan music and Latin American.
They entertained the diners without being too loud, so we were able to engage in conversation.
It was the perfect dinner setting. A combination of good food, a nice ambience, as well as being budget friendly.
Whilst it can get quite busy, I didn’t have to queue long.
I was happy to be seated outside. It was a nice, warm evening, and I was content feeling the vibe of the restaurant mixed with the magic of the medina during evening time.
L’Mdina is close enough to the main square for a break from the hustle and bustle, whilst still feeling a part of it. It’s a place to go for an hour or so to recharge one’s batteries.
There is a set menu at lunchtime for 85 dirhams, and it’s worth every penny.

If you want a tasty meal, which is reasonably priced with some entertainment, I recommend giving L’mdina a try.
The restaurant’s address is;
42 rue des banque
Marrakech 40000
L’Mdina opens at 12 midday and closes at 23.00
They accept card payments.

For more information about places to eat, contact me via the email address below;
- RIAD JARDIN DE LEA.
An Authentic Riad In The Medina.

Riad Lea, as it is also known, is a traditional mid priced riad only 10 minutes walk away from the main square.
There are 5 suites, and they are authentic and comfortable.
The courtyard is peaceful with the sound of birds chirping.
It’s a nice place to sit and cool down after a busy morning exploring the city in the heat.
The rooftop is a great place for a spot of sunbathing, and there is also a jacuzzi.
The staff at Riad Lea were especially attentive. They couldn’t do enough for their guests.
They even offered me some of their food they were breaking their fast with during Ramadan.
It’s the little touches like this that make a traditional riad such a charming place to stay.
While there are plusher places with modern amenities and more recently renovated riads, it’s the personal touches that stand out for me.
The staff at Riad Lea made sure that their guests felt comfortable and happy.
There was a lovely atmosphere in the riad, and everyone seemed to be having a great experience.
Reaching the riad was like heading down a hobbit hole, and the doorway was not made for tall people, but once you got used to it, you remembered to duck.
The breakfast at Riad Lea was a typical Morroccan breakfast, but as good as I’ve had in the more expensive riads.
I loved their homemade yoghurt.
The walk to the main square was enjoyable, passing by lots of interesting little shops on the way.
I enjoyed my stay at Riad Lea. It’s not a fancy 5 star accommodation, but it’s good value for money.
It was clean, I had everything I needed, and the staff were a credit to the riad.
Riad Lea can be found at,
41 Derb Sidi Bou
Amar Marrakech 40000.


Courtyard at Riad Lea. For more information about places to stay, contact me via the email address below;
- RIAD LAILA.
A stunning riad with a large swimming pool.

Riad Laila is a stunning riad with the most beautiful courtyard.
It is larger than most riads, and the courtyard is full of exquisite plants, including mandarin trees and hibiscus.
This is a newer riad, and the rooms are tastefully furnished and relatively modern. They are a generous size with plush bathrooms.
The rooftop is well maintained, a great spot for sunbathing or relaxing with a beer or refreshing mint tea and looking at the views over the medina.


The rooftop. This is the perfect riad for those people who are looking for a more modern, spa like feel to their Morroccan experience.
The staff exude professionalism and wear uniforms. They keep a keen eye on guests, and the place is run immaculately.
Everything is spotlessly clean, and it’s the kind of place where you can spend ages just relaxing by the side of the pool.



Riad Laila is a high-end accommodation at the most northern side of the medina.
It is close to the bus station and around a 25-minute walk from the centre.
The Jardin Majorelle is a short walk away.
I found Raid Laila fine for a couple of days but did miss the charm of a more relaxed, traditional, family run riad.
The food was mediocre, I’m a vegetarian, and I was disappointed with my meal. It wasn’t worth the 20 euros I paid for it.
I wasn’t given a choice of food or asked about allergies or dietary requirements.
The overall impression was that everything felt slightly clinical and lacked the laid-back, homely feel that Marrakech is known for.
However, if you’re looking for a complete break away from the excitement and sensory overload of the medina, Riad Laila may be perfect for you.
It is visually appealing and one of the nicest gardens boasting 840m2.
Inside the high walls of this riad, it is tranquil and relaxing.
They have a resident tortoise called Laila who loves you to feed her hibiscus flowers.

Laila the riads namesake. The surrounding streets are very quiet, and so I preferred taking a taxi during the evening.
Riad Laila is at,
104 Diour Jdad
Zaouia Abbassia
Marrakech 40000.
For more information about places to stay in Marrakech, contact me via the email address below;
- LE SALAMA RESTAURANT
Traditional Morroccan Soul Food.

Le Salama restaurant serves a range of delicious food that is reasonably priced.

There is a lively rooftop dining area that gets very busy and seems to be popular amongst tourists.
I would recommend booking in advance for a table on the rooftop as it is very popular.
The decor is a mixture of traditional Morroccan and modern with a touch of nature.
There are two bars serving a range of alcohol and non alcoholic drinks in both areas.
I chose a plate of Morroccan pastries, which were delicious with a cold glass of Casablanca beer.
I had eaten earlier, so I wasn’t particularly hungry, but the other diners were enjoying a variety of excellent dishes from the menu.


At 9.00pm, the entertainment begins.
Traditional belly dancers danced around the tables, encouraging the diners to participate.
It was fun to watch, and everyone in the restaurant appeared to be having a good time.
I have to admit that the service was slightly slow. However, it was Ramadan, so exceptions have to be made during this month.
I was by myself as a solo female traveller, and I didn’t feel conspicuous at all.
The waiters were polite and helpful, and it wasn’t a problem that I only ordered a dessert and one drink.
Le Salama is close to Jamaa El Fna, so it’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat and recharge your batteries.

Le Salama can be found on,
40 rue des banques, and it’s open until 2.00 am
It serves a good range of cocktails and is open for lunch and dinner.
They also have a kids menu.

For more information, contact me via the email address below:
- RIAD DOMBARAKA
Riad Dombaraka is a beautiful place to stay.
It has a tranquil courtyard with a small pool for guests to cool down in.


The pool has an exercise bike inside it. The plants are exquisite, and listening to the birds singing amongst the foliage is so relaxing.
Every inch of riad Dombaraka is tastefully decorated with beautiful paintings and furniture. It feels as though you are staying in a royal palace.


The rooftop is spacious with great views. It’s great for sunbathing with plenty of spaces to sit soaking up the hot, morroccan sun.

View from the rooftop. There is a wonderful library with an assortment of books and fine furnishings.

The library. The riad is kept spotlessly clean, and the staff are friendly and happy as they go about their job.
Riad Dombaraka is owned by a French woman called Dominique, who gives her guests the warmest welcome on arrival.
She suggests places to eat and visit, also arranging transport through the souks to get to them. I always felt safe and well looked after.
The breakfast was lovely. It was traditional Morroccan food with plenty of variety and very filling.
Riad Dombaraka is not particularly budget accommodation, but it is definitely good value for money.
It is an elegant riad whilst maintaining its traditional character and charm.
Guests are offered fresh water for free and asked if they would like mint tea.
Relaxing by the pool, listening to soft music and birds singing, you would never know the craziness of the Souks was literally a stones throw away outside the door.



The courtyard. Outside the riad door, there is still evidence of the earthquake in 2023.
There are locals selling vegetables and fish, giving a true picture of morroccan life.
Inside the riad, you experience a whole different world. One of decadence and serenity.
I highly recommend Riad Dombaraka.
It is absolutely stunning, and guests are treated well.
It’s like staying in a warm, homely environment, and the food is delicious.
The address is,
47.Derb El Qadi medina. Medina Azbezt 40030

For information on places to stay or eat in Marrakech, contact me:
- HERBORISTERIE REDA .

Herboristerie Reda Shop. There is nothing more delightful than taking the fragrance of Marrakech home with you and reliving the experience of your time there.
You can find plenty of places in the souks selling argan oil and perfumes, fragrant shampoos, and body wash.
The scent of orange blossom, oud, and jasmine oil enticing you to buy something special as a constant reminder of the time you’ve spent in Marrakesh.
It’s important to know that not all oil will be genuine argan oil.
There are inferior quality products sold at a high price, so you need to be careful not to get ripped off.
The argan oil cooperatives are the best option for buying genuine products, but if you don’t get the opportunity to visit them, where should you go?
I found a great place in the souks run by a very helpful and pleasant woman.
Herboristerie Reda shop, the address is,
48.Derb Sidi, Boulfdail.
Marrakech 40000.
I purchased a few lovely products from here, and they’re good quality oils.

I spent a lot of time inside the shop and didn’t feel pressured to buy anything.
The woman was called Hennan, and she was genuinely helpful and kind.
There is a huge selection of products, including soap and fragrant body cream, perfumed oils, and products for use during a hammam.



Interior of Reda shop The shop is used to advertise a Gourd Festival each year, they are hung up outside and the front of the shop is very colourful and inviting.
I have purchased goods from other retailers in the souks, but the scent doesn’t last very long before wearing off.
The oils from here last ages and smell amazing.
You can also purchase herbs and spices such as Saffron, herbal teas, and medicinal ointments.

My purchases from Reda shop. - RIAD PERSEPHONE.
A pretty riad close to Jemaa El Fna.

Courtyard in Raid Persephone.
This is a large riad very close to the main square. It has a very pretty courtyard with beautiful plants and a swimming pool.
The colour of the walls are a lovely blue that works really well against the lush green foliage and tiled flooring.
The rooftop is large with plenty of seating and a warm jacuzzi. It’s lit up in the evening and looks incredibly pretty.


Views from the rooftop. The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the lively sound of everything that is going on until late at night.
I chose a room on the rooftop. It was exceptionally pretty and decorated in a Saffron colour.



Saffron room. For light sleepers, you may find the early morning call to pray rather loud, and the noise from the square may be a bit of a problem.
The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning.
I would recommend taking ear plugs.
Riad Persephone is not a reasonably priced accommodation, and it is not a luxury riad.
It has a rustic charm, and some areas are a little bit tired and in need of a face-lift.
If you prefer a traditional style of riad, this is what you will get but at a high-end price. Don’t expect a five-star experience. You may be disappointed.
The riad offers the usual activities and has a hammam.
Riad Persephone is in a great location, close to some nice restaurants and shops.
It is vibrant and colourful, with a few cosy little nooks to sit and relax.




Interior of Riad Persephone. If you’re looking for a traditional riad,there are similar riads that have excellent customer service at a more reasonable price.
At Raid Persephone, you are paying for the close proximity to the Jamma El Fna.
Overall, it is aesthetically pretty and very close to the main square.
If you are looking for a more intimate place with a friendly, homestay vibe, there are better options available.
- LA FOUNTAINE DES ESPICES.
A great place to eat in the medina with competitive prices.

If you’re looking for an authentic place to eat in the medina, try La Fountaine des Espices.
I stumbled across this place one evening, and I have to say I was rather impressed.
The service was very good, the food was incredibly tasty and the decor was elegant with a boho vibe.



Interior of La Fountaine des Espices with dim lighting making it romantic and cosy. I visited a few times because I thoroughly enjoyed the food.
They have a nice rooftop, and the waiters were so friendly and helpful, I was made to feel really welcome.
The prices were reasonable considering the quality of the food, and the whole experience was excellent.
They serve traditional Morroccan food, and you get an authentic feel for morroccan culture.
I highly recommend their smoothies.
My daughter and I chose the detox smoothie with apple, green lemon, celery, cucumber, and turmeric.
There are plenty of choices on the menu, and they were beautifully made and exceptionally healthy.

Smoothies in La Fountaine des Espices. For my meal, I opted for the vegetable tagine, and it was cooked to perfection.
The service was relatively quick, and the waiters were attentive, making sure we were happy with our meal.
My daughter tried the chicken pastilla and loved it. She said the chicken was tender, and the portion was a decent size.

Vegetable tagine. Fountaine des Espices is a great little spot if you’re looking for a good quality meal in a nice environment with highly competitive prices.
It’s particularly nice during the evening with candles lit on the tables, giving a nice romantic ambience whilst your dining.
They serve breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.
You can also relax on the rooftop with a drink in the sunshine.
The Fountaine des Espices is next to the Secret Garden, the address is,
131 Rue Mouassine.
It’s open from 10.00 am until 12.00 am, the busiest time is 3.00 pm.
For more information, contact me via the email address below.
- TRADITIONAL BERBER RUGS.
A look at how Berber rugs are made.

A woman weaving a Berber rug. Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.
They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.
Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness depending on which tribe has made it, so that they are suitable for the environment where they are used.
For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.
They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.
Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.
To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.
Here are the steps taken to make a beautiful Berber rug.
1. Shearing the Sheep
Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife. The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip. The wool is then sorted and cleaned.It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.
The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.
2. Carding
Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn.
To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction. This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction. Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.
Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable. The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.The women are often responsible for this process.
3. Spinning into Yarn
To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use a drop spindle.This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom. The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the woman’s hands. As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.
4. Weaving the Berber RugThe weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.
This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last many years.
The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.
Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into the rug using a loom.
The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design.
The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.
The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.
Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.
It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.
There are a few scams, so be aware before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local.
Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.
This is their address..
Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco



Beautiful Berber rugs. For more information or help with planning the perfect itinerary, please contact me using the email address below.
- THE HISTORY OF MARRAKECH.
A brief glimpse into the history of the red city of Marrakech.

The magnificent Koutoubia Mosque. Marrakech has been inhabited for over 1000 years. The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.
Morocco took its name from Marrakech, the Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.
During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.
They constructed an underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.
They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.
His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.
He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.
It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.
In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.
They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque.
They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.
They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.
They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.
This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.
The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.
In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.
They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne .
Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but they much preferred the city of Fez, and so consequently, Marrakech was about to go into serious decline.
Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.
Because of this move, Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected. The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.
From 1578-1603, the Saadian sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power, restoring the city to its former glory and establishing Marrakech as its capital city.
They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.

Saadian tombs/image Freebird Tracey 


El Badi Palace/images Freebird Tracey. They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.
The Saads built Bab Doukkala 1557-1571 mosque and Mouassine mosque 1562-72.
They also built Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.



Madrasa Ben Youssef/images Freebird Tracey. In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.
The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries. They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.
They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.
They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, developing it’s infrastructure.
It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.
Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.
Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.
The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.
They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.
In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.
Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.
It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.
In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.
It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.
Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.
Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.
As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating. It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..



Gueliz area in Marrakech/images Freebird Tracey. For further information or advice on planning the perfect itinerary, get in touch using the contact details below..
- MARRAKECH ON A BUDGET.
Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a budget.

Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank.
In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.
It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.
I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.
1.
Book your flight early.
The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.
2.
If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.
3.
Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.
4.
Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.
4.
Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.
5.
There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.
Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate post about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.
Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.
Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.
Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.
6.
Try a public hammam.
I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.
Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.
You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.
7.
Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.
Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.
You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will work it out eventually.
There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.
8.
Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.
9.
Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.
10.
Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.
11.
Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.
Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.
It’s a destination that is accessible for everyone, including those on a tighter budget.
With some careful planning, you can put together an interesting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.

If you need help to organise your trip or advice on places to eat or stay, reach out and leave me an email using the contact details below..
- THE AMAZIGH PEOPLE.
A brief history of the indigenous people of Morocco.

An Amazigh Woman displaying her Headdress. The Berbers, also known as the Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.
They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.
The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.
This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.
The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.
Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers. During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and throwing their society into chaos.The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance.
Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.
The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.
The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’
Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.
It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.
A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.
You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.
This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.
The Souks sell beautiful Berber jewellery and rugs made by the Berber ladies.


Images Freebird Tracey. See my separate post on Berber rugs.

Beautiful Amazigh Women. For more information contact
- A TRADITIONAL MORROCCAN HAMMAM.
Experience a true taste of Marrakechi culture.

One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.
A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.
It was a ritualistic cleansing that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.
Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.
Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.

During a treatment, morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.
It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.
The scrubbing is quite vigorous.
This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.
A clay called Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body as it’s rich in minerals like silica,magnesium, and calcium.

After this, your whole body is lathered thoroughly, including your hair with a gentler soap or gel.
The next treatment is an all-over massage using exquisite oils like rose oil or argan oil..
The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.
Relaxing in heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.
Once the treatment is finished, you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries..
The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the ambience.
There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.
The public or private hammam.
The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.
In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.
These are much less expensive.
The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.
Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.
You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.
The underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for the male underwear instead.
Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable or uncomfortable being so exposed with just a disposable thong hiding your modesty.
The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very professional.
Most women do get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.
Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.
Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service.
Other popular hammams are,
. Hammam de la rose.
. Mamounia Hamman..
. Les Bains Ziani.
Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it, check beforehand.
Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.
It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.
Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.
Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.
I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.
However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.
You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, near the spice square.
You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.
Riads organise their own..
Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear..

For more information;
- THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN YOU VISIT MARRAKECH.
A few helpful tips you may find useful before arriving in Marrakesh.

Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.
In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.
There are 🏧 machines located around the city.
I use the one outside the post office near where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.
The exchange rate is good, and it was always working.
You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.
There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.
It’s advisable to always carry a small amount of cash with you.
It’s useful for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.
Something you may want to consider if you don’t wish to get any cash at the airport is..
Make sure to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.
Most accommodations will do this for you when you book, and it’s prepaid.
You will probably need a SIM card.
I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.
This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived.
Having data gave me reassurance as a solo traveller.
I could use Google maps in the souks, which was helpful in case I got lost.
Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually exceptionally good.
So it’s nice to be nice.
I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.
You can drink the tap water allegedly.
Personally, I didn’t.
I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus it doesn’t taste that good.
There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell water.
Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.
Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.

Image Freebird Tracey. Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.
The same applies to shopping in the souks.
Aim to arrive at places like Bacha Coffee and Bahia Palace for around 9.30.am.
Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.
However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.
Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.
NB: See my separate post on what to wear when visiting Marrakech.
Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.
There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.
Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.
Some high-end riads and hotels will have alcohol also.
It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.
If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.
The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.
People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.
It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.
Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.
Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.
Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.
The locals will love telling you all about it..
There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a dirhams.
I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.
Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.
Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.
The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.
I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.
NB: See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.

Happy travels.
- HENNA ART CAFE.
A great place to visit for a spot of lunch in the medina.

Interior of Henna Art Cafe The first place I go after arriving in the medina is Henna Art Cafe.
It’s the perfect spot to stop and refuel myself.
I can familiarise myself with where I am and check Google maps for the location of my riad.
It’s a quirky place with decent food and the funkiest little bathroom, even if it is a bit of a tight squeeze.
On the first floor, you can get henna tattoos done, and there are plenty of designs to choose from.
All are 100% natural.
It’s a really relaxing vibe here, and I often enjoy a light snack at lunchtime whilst shopping in the medina.
It’s also very reasonably priced.
There is a good selection of food on the menu, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options are available.
There is free WiFi, and you can often find digital nomads enjoying a quick bite to eat here.
It’s a friendly place and a good introduction to the medina without being too in your face..
Henna Art Cafe is located in the heart of the medina, just three minutes stroll down Riad Zeitoun al Kdim from Djemma El Fna.
It is open 7 days a week from 11 to 8.30 PM.
During Ramadan, it closes earlier at 5.30 PM.

A refreshing glass of lemonade 
A simple vegetable tagine 
Silver babouche cutlery holders Payment is taken downstairs on the way out, and cards are accepted here.
After a nice meal and a rest at Henna Art Cafe, I’m ready to tackle the challenge of trying to locate my riad.

Lunch upstairs on the terrace - FIVE THINGS I LOVE AND HATE ABOUT MARRAKECH.
A list of my favourite and more challenging things in Marrakech.

Colourful Babouches Marrakech is ‘my happy place’. It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Hivernage in the new part of the city.
Visitors may find the experience to be an assault on the senses.
The lively sounds, sights, and smells can be a complete overload on the senses and somewhat overwhelming to the most seasoned traveller.
However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech.
You do become accustomed to it, and it’s part of the charm of Marrakech.
I have made a list of the 5 things that I myself love and hate about this fascinating city to help you get the most out of your visit.
Here are the 5 things I hate about Marrakech.
1.
If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.
The monkeys on chains and the snakes (which you are encouraged to have a photo taken with) are difficult to accept.
Don’t encourage this.
The monkies have been brought down from the Atlas mountains, and although people need to make a living, they clearly don’t want to be there.
Then there are the horses, taking tourists through busy traffic and the donkeys pulling carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.
The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.
The donkeys look overworked and neglected.
It’s the culture of the city, but very different from what I’m used to.
I avoided eye contact with the snake charmers and monkeys in the square, and they stopped approaching me eventually.
There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of the riads.
They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring as a rule.
If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.
I joined Brooke, a sanctuary, for working animals abroad when I arrived home.
I can’t change how people earn their money, but I can help to educate them.
2.
Queueing at the airport.
Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so get used to it.
Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.
You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.
Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.
Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.
3.
Marrakech is touristy.
The narrow alleys of the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.
Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.
Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it will certainly feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.
Tip: Plan to visit in January or November to avoid the crowds.
It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.
There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will get that perfect photo opportunity.
Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors. They don’t feel comfortable about it and may even expect a payment from you.
4.
The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks.
Everyone in Marrakech seems to own a motorcycle, and they all appear to be riding them at the same time.
The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.
This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.
There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get busy.
Around 9.00 is an ideal time.
There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.
Pollution is fairly bad, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.
5.
The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.
During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.
This includes the locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.
The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors can follow you persistently with a menu to get your custom.
Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries of what’s considered to be harassment
It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations
The henna ladies are also demanding your custom.
It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them without your consent.
Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to make eye contact with any of the vendors.
Saying “ La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.
It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.
Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.
Whilst it’s difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors vying for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive.
Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.
So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

A lovely man shows me inside the Hammam/image by Freebird Tracey. Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’
I am absolutely in love with this city.
Here’s why…
1.
The people are wonderful.
You can expect to encounter the friendliest and most welcoming people you have ever met.
They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.
They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.
They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.
It’s absolutely fascinating, and it’s possible to stay with Amazigh people in the Atlas mountains during your trip.
The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the riad owners go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.
I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.
They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard. The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.
They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after the exhilaration outside.
NB: I have a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.
2.
The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship.
If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful colours and intricate designs, you will be in paradise in the Souks.
You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products
You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items at a decent price.
Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.
Just be prepared to barter.
3.
The food is delicious.
There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.
There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.
The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.
I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.
The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.
Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in
It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.
Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.
There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found around the square.
This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists and locals than those people who prefer fine dining.
Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer and the stunning restaurant settings.
I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee ( see my separate post)
There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.
You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.
4.
The architecture is absolutely stunning.
There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely astonishing.
Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.
The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.
I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,
. Bahia Palace.
. Madrasa Ben Youssef.
. The saadian Tombs.
. The Koutoubia Mosque.
. The Secret Garden.
. Bacha Museum.
Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.
5.
Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places
I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.
I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..
There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience the monkeys.
You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.
If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.
Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.
Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

Ouzoud Waterfall. There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.
Here are a few other things to take into consideration..
Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.
Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.
I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.
Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.
Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity,
A place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet perfectly functional,
A place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,
Then Marrakech is for you.
I would recommend doing your research before visiting. Watch YouTube videos and read travel blogs.
Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge before you arrive so that you will know what to expect.
That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will stay with you forever.

Intricately tiled fountain. Continue reading for more information about the places mentioned in this post..
- GETTING AROUND MARRAKECH.
The best options for exploring the red city.

Walking around Marrakech Marrakech is easily doable on foot.
If you’re staying in the medina, you can get to most places relatively quickly by walking.
If this is not easy for you or the heat is a bit much, the other option is to take a tuk- tuk.
Most riads can organise a pick-up point and give the driver directions to where you need to go.
It’s a fun way to get around, and some of them are rather elaborately decorated.
They rattle through the souks, competing with the motorcycles, donkeys, and pedestrians.
Another option is to take a taxi.
Check with your hotel or riad beforehand, and find out how much you should be paying to travel the distance you want to go.
It’s not uncommon for taxi drivers to try to charge more, so stick to your guns and, if necessary, walk away.
There are plenty of drivers available, and they are all competing with each other for fares, so you don’t have to put up with being ripped off.
I only used taxis to get from the medina to Jardin Majorelle and Gueliz. It was a warm day, and I didn’t feel like walking in the sun.
After a little polite negotiation, there were no problems, and I paid the correct fare, give or take a few dirhams.
There are many tourists who pay to see the city on horse-drawn carriages.

Horse-drawn carriage in Marrakech The horses are taken into the chaotic traffic, and I’ve witnessed a few upsetting incidents where they’ve been hit by a car.
There doesn’t appear to be any rules on the roads, and they’re pretty crazy. The horses look scared and I’ve seen them freeze in the centre of the traffic.
It’s a personal decision if you want to take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage. However, I would suggest only going around the medina walls and during the evening.
It’s quieter for the horses than the madness of the busy main roads in the exhausting heat.
Part of the fun in Marrakesh is walking from A to B..
There are so many interesting things to see and you miss so much if you don’t walk.
I especially enjoyed walking through the kasbah, seeing the locals going about their business and getting a feel for the real Marrakech.
There are also walking tours around Marrakech, which you can book.
These tours take you around the tourist hot spots, usually in a group of people.
NB. There are separate tours for food sampling.
It’s also possible to hire a bicycle if you’re brave enough.
Check out Cafe Pikala for bicycle hire. It’s very popular.
The Alsa bus runs around Marrakech for about 2 dirhams. The numbers 1 and 16 will ferry you between the medina and Gueliz.
For venturing further, there are trains going to places like Casablanca daily.
There is a good service, and prices and times can be found online.

A rest in the shade after walking around Marrakech - MAJORELLE GARDEN.
The stunning botanical garden called Le Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech.

Lilypads and Koi Carp at Majorelle Garden. Inside the beautiful Majorelle Garden, there are over 300 stunning plant species from all over the world.
Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees amongst a labyrinth of pathways.
The incredibly tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species coexist together to create one of the most beautiful gardens in marrakech.






Two acres of botanical landscape gardens. Originally designed by Jean Majorelle in the 1920s.
After he was forced to abandon his home because of divorce, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development in 1980.
They restored it and made it their home, bringing the garden back to it’s former glory.
For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent
There is a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge in the garden.

Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it a less than tranquil place to sit and reflect.
I would have loved to have sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation, admiring the pop of colour from the bougainvillea, but I was never alone for very long.
The attractive art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place for visitors to get their photographs taken.

The colourful pavilion 
The exotic blue and Islamic green tiles. There is also a cafe and shop.
I purchased some postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ yearly ‘Love’ drawings.
I didn’t go to the cafe because there were too many people and the queues were really long.

Yves Saint Laurent early ‘Love’ drawings The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm.
I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am, preferably at opening time if you want a more peaceful experience.
Luckily, I had prebooked online, so I didn’t have to queue.
I’m thankful that I did because the queues were really long, and it was a very hot day for standing around without any shade.
The YSL museum is also part of the visit, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a look around if you are interested in Berber history.

Opening times are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.
You can’t take photographs inside the museum.
The price varies depending on where you purchase tickets from but you can expect to pay approximately €24 to visit everything.
There are plenty of nice restaurants outside the gardens, and I decided to get something to eat and drink in one of those. It was much quieter.
I recommend My Kawa for a nice salad.
There are a few shops across the road from Majorelle Garden selling souvenirs and a few attractive boutiques.


Shopping around Majorelle Garden Stuff was a bit pricey, but I picked up some nice jasmine oil at a fairly decent price.
Overall, Majorelle Garden was absolutely beautiful. It is colourful and lush with several spots to sit and absorb the exotic sights and sounds.
However, it is incredibly busy with tourists, which detracts from the calm sense of serenity you’d expect to get from such a delightful setting.
It was worth visiting for the wonderful trees and plants and to get some great photos, but unless you go very early during the quiet season, you won’t get a peaceful, relaxing vibe..
Majorelle Garden is located to the north west of Marrakech medina.

- THE MARRAKECHI CATS.
The life of a cat in Marrakech.

Watching the world go by/image Freebird Tracey. One of the things you will notice when you’re in Marrakech is the number of stray cats everywhere.
I was surprised to see so many, especially around the busy square, and in the souks.
They seemed to dodge the many motorcycles and hide inconspicuously under the juice stalls.
There were cats sleeping on rugs and cushion covers in the souks, and lazing about without a care in the world.
I witnessed strays giving birth to kittens inside alleyways and watched as cats prowled across rooftop perimeters at dawn.
Five years ago, when I first visited Marrakech, I took pity on the cute little kittens hanging around outside my riad.
They looked thin and hungry, I wanted to do something to help them..

Cats inside the souks/image Freebird Tracey. I purchased a couple of tins of sardines and carefully wrapped the leftovers from my dinner into napkins.
I found a couple of cats and strategically placed the food in a safe place for them.


Stray cats outside the riad/images Freebird Tracey. The next minute, there were so many cats appearing out of nowhere, also demanding to be fed.
This made me feel very guilty because I’d only managed to afford them a few tiny morsels.
It was a case of first come, first served..
I went back to the UK feeling a little sorry for all the homeless cats who alerted passing tourists of their existence with a gentle mewing and extended paw.
The next time I arrived at marrakech, I saw things from a different perspective.
I stayed in three separate riads, and each one had a resident cat, who was very well cared for.
I noticed restaurants leaving food outside their premises and butchers dropping scraps of meat on the floor for the local cat population to eat.

A cat waiting for scraps of meat/image Freebird Tracey. Many of the cats were being looked after, and some were actually thriving on the titbits and bowls of food dotted around the medina.

Cats sleeping peacefully in the souks/image Freebird Tracey. 
A friendly stray waits for a morsel of food/image, Freebird Tracey. There was only one upsetting incident where a young man was sitting with a kitten on his lap, and it was holding a business card in its paws.
On closer inspection, it isn’t something I ever want to see again, and I don’t feel the need to go into more detail here..
I’m sure you can imagine what I saw.
That was the only startling discovery I have made.
On the whole, the cats appear to be relatively content.
They don’t exist in the way domesticated cats do in the west, but they’re not being ill treated any more than anywhere else in the world.
I even saw a man get off his motorcycle in the busy souk and move a little kitten to the safety of an alleyway.

Image Freebird Tracey. If you’re coming to Marrakech, seeing all the stray cats may shock you initially.
I was exactly the same, but after closer observation, I came to the conclusion that the situation wasn’t as dire as I first thought.
There are plenty of little pools of water around the city for the cats to drink from, and some vendors leave glasses of water out for them.
The crazy traffic and crowds of tourists seem to be the biggest problem, but the cats have learnt how to navigate their way around.
I’m happy to say that I haven’t seen an injured cat at the side of any of the roads around Marrakech yet.
There are tourists who are rescuing stray cats around Marrakech and taking them back to European countries.
They are working with local vets to get injured cats treated and all the necessary vaccinations done before taking them out of the country.
The cats in Marrakesh have learnt how to survive.
They only know this life, and people are kind and compassionate towards them on the whole.
Plus, I’ve never seen a single rat in Marrakesh..


A family of Stray cats in marrakech/images Freebird Tracey. - AN UNFORGETTABLE EVENING IN THE AGAFAY DESERT.
Camels, sunsets, and a fire show that left me speechless.


Stunning scenery at Agafay desert We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.
The journey took around 45 minutes in total even though we seemed to be driving across the gravelly desert for what seemed like ages.
There were camels with their young calfs dotted about, looking fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists driving past slowly.
On arrival, we could hear music playing from our camp a short distance away from where we were parked.
Our guide led us to tables overlooking the vast expansive desert. The panoramic view was absolutely breathtaking..
We could see for miles.




Images of our camp at Agafay desert Our camp was really pretty, with colourful seats and rugs scattered everywhere.
There was a Berber tent for us to shelter in, and we could also eat inside there if we wanted to since it was slightly windy.
After a hot, sweet mint tea, we all took the optional camel ride..


All aboard the camels It was rather a scary experience because my camel came untied and got a bit frisky with the one in front.
After he was reattached, we continued a bit further for a short while before turning around and heading back to disembark.
That was also something of a nerve-wracking experience.
I wobbled about on my camels back as he dropped down to the ground in the most undignified manner.
I probably wouldn’t do that part of the trip again, but everyone else seemed to really enjoy it.
Immediately after we got off the camels, our meal was presented to us.
It was a three course meal consisting of vegetable soup with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine followed by cakes and fruit for dessert.

Fresh food cooked beautifully in Agafay desert. We ate watching the beautiful golden sun go down. The sky was fiery red.
It was absolutely stunning.
I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen.


A spectacular sunset We ate our meal, with traditional musicians playing their instruments around the tables.
It was very entertaining.
Traditional musicians entertaining visitors. As soon as dinner was over, more merriment began..
The dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires and attempting to mimic the traditional Berber dancing.
The atmosphere was incredible.
Everyone was out of their seats, clapping and enjoying themselves.
The stars came out, and the campfires roared.
The temperature had cooled down, but we were soon nice and warm again.
After the lively display of Berber dancing had finished, we all sat down to catch our breath once more.
The air was full of laughter, and spirits were high.
Soon, the grand finale was about to begin..
A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert.
It was completely dark by now, and the visual effects were totally hypnotising.
Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display.
It was the highlight of the whole evening.
We were completely blown away, watching the flames leaping about against the back drop of the vast dark desert.
I certainly wasn’t expecting anything quite as fantastic as that!
The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close.
It had been a wonderful evening.
We had tasty food, the entertainment was a lot of fun, the fire display was incredible, and the camel ride was rather… interesting!
Everyone was able to participate in what turned out to be a very enjoyable time.
We were taken back to our meeting point near Jamaa El Fna.
The cost of the excursion was well worth the money, and I would highly recommend it.
I booked my trip through Get Your Guide.
I believe there are a few different desert camps.
Some have better facilities than others, and some include a different itinerary. The cost varies, so do check what activities you are getting before you book.
Hotels and riads can also organise the trip for you, if you prefer, although you may pay slightly more.
It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay luxury camp.
There is a swimming pool and other amenities with a more luxurious touch.
Check Booking.com or look for reputable online sites for details about staying there.
There are a few things to consider if you plan to visit Agafay desert camp..
Take a warm sweater or blanket, the evenings drop cooler, and you may find the wind is a little bit blustery in some camps.
There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.
There are vegetarian options available. I had vegetable tagine, and the other people in my group had chicken.
The guides are excellent at their job.
I have been several times and they always find us at the end of the evening. No one gets left behind.
Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert.
I really enjoyed this and purchased some argan oil for my skin. It was a decent quality oil and lasted me ages.
The tour usually finishes around 9.30-10.00.
I went in March and September and enjoyed it both times.
Despite it being Ramadan in March, I was impressed how well I was looked after.
I think I may take a journey to the Sahara desert next.
Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life..

Ships of the desert/ image Freebird Tracey - MORROCCAN MINT TEA.
The customary mint tea that is served to guests on arrival in Marrakech is practically a ritual.

The traditional way of welcoming guests. 
A woman pours tea at an argan cooperative After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive in your riad slightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.
The owner of the riad gives you the warmest welcome with the biggest smile across his face as he guides you into the beautiful courtyard.
As you sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water in the fountain and smell the scent of the blossom on the trees, slowly you begin to unwind.
The owner reappears with an ornate teapot and colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. He begins pouring the fresh mint tea, holding the teapot higher and higher as he pours.
You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.
The aroma from the fresh mint leaves is wonderful..
You begin to feel refreshed as the fragrant scent fills the air.
This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.
The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.
It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.
After you have drank your tea sweetened with sugar cubes and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic…

A refreshing cup of mint tea Mint tea is everywhere in Marrakech.
It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit in cafes chatting with their friends.
It is known by the locals as ‘Morroccan Whisky’

The tea is made using green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is already sweetened with sugar before serving.
If you find it a bit too sweet, try it before adding sugar cubes.
Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, alongside other herbs and spices, and the aromatic aroma tempts the tastebuds.
You can purchase the little tea glasses in the souks, and they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.
Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate.

A traditional Morroccan welcome. Sipping mint tea and overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a very enjoyable experience in Marrakech.
One you will remember for years to come..
- OUZOUD WATERFALL.
For a great day out, take a trip to Ouzoud to see the spectacular waterfall.

The second largest waterfall in Africa, it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.
I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way.
The mini bus had air conditioning and was pretty comfortable. We drove for around one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break and a drink.
There was a small cooperative selling Argan oil, but I didn’t bother going in.
Soon, we were on our way again, and believe me, the views of the Atlas Mountains were astonishing.
On arrival, we were introduced to our guide, who spoke several different languages, and we set off walking through the lush vegetation.
We rambled through the olive groves as the cheeky wild Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

A monkey hiding in the tree The waterfall was visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points to take photographs or rest.
The waterfalls plunge 110 metres into the canyon below, making it a breathtaking sight.
We stopped for a freshly squeezed pomegranate juice before continuing our way down to the boats.

Making pomegranate juice A boat ride up to the waterfall is part of the itinerary if you book a tour.
The boats are colourfully decorated, and we were taken right up against the waterfall.
It was an amazing experience.
The feeling of the cool water spraying our faces was a welcome relief from the heat, and we had the opportunity to take plenty of photos up close.

Rowing up to the waterfall We were dropped off on the opposite side and then had quite a steep climb up to the restaurants.
I was able to get a table overlooking the waterfall, and the view was absolutely stunning.
I had a simple three course meal consisting of a starter, which was a small salad with fresh bread and olives, followed by a vegetable tagine and fruit for dessert.


Views from the restaurant The meal was finished off with a glass of Morroccan whisky or mint tea as we know it.
The meal cost around 150 dirhams and was fairly good value. It was very tasty and filling enough for a light lunch.

After lunch, we made our way up some more steps, stopping off to feed the monkeys at the top.


The monkeys of Ouzoud Finally, we were reunited with our driver and set off back for Marrakech.
We arrived back in the early evening, giving me plenty of time to freshen up and go out again for an evening meal.
Overall, the trip to Ouzoud was well worth the six hours travelling.
It was absolutely beautiful, and sitting above the waterfall looking down whilst eating lunch was the highlight of the trip for me.
The monkeys were very amusing, and I had to keep hold of my sunglasses to stop them from stealing them.
The guide was so helpful and looked after everyone really well. Many morroccans speak five languages, and it’s very impressive.
I highly recommend going to Ouzoud if you visit Marrakech. It’s a wonderful day trip.
If you have mobility issues, it may be challenging because there are a lot of steps, and it can be quite a steep climb from the bottom backup.
There’s a fair amount of walking involved.
Some people were taken back up on Donkeys.

Hard-working donkeys I booked my trip with Get Your Guide, and it was reasonably priced.
The lunch was separate, and you paid after the meal.
Your riad or hotel can also organise day trips for you, but it sometimes works out slightly more expensive.

- THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MARRAKECH.
Marrakech is an all year round destination.
However, there are a few things you may want to consider before planning your trip.
I’ve put together a few helpful tips to help you decide when to travel..

Jamaa El Fna when it’s quiet Marrakech has a high desert climate so it is pleasant all year round.
During the summer months, temperatures can reach a staggering 45°C or higher, which a lot of visitors find unbearably hot.
The Winter months can be moderately warm and sunny, feeling chillier in the evenings.
I suggest the best time to go is during the spring, from March till May or in autumn, from September till November.
March sees warm, sunny weather, and you can dine on the rooftops in the evening. However, I would recommend taking a lightweight jacket to throw on if it feels a bit chilly.
It gets warmer as the month progresses.
March is the wettest month experiencing 12mm of rain over a day, so it is worth bearing this in mind also.
June is the driest month with 1mm of rainfall over one day but temperatures in June and July do tend to soar.
This might make excursions and activities more uncomfortable.
If you prefer going when there are less tourists, I would suggest January to February.
The climate is sunny, with average highs of 19°C and lows of 6°C during the evening.
This would be the ideal time to visit if you’re put off by crowds and long queues.
Another thing to consider is that Ramadan takes place between February and April, so some stores and restaurants may be closed.
I choose to visit in late March and late September.
The Jacaranda trees along the main roads in Gueliz look really beautiful, and the air is really fragrant at this time of year.

Gueliz in September The last time I went during March, it was quite hot, and I actually got sunburnt.
It was Ramadan, but it didn’t have a negative effect on my trip. Most places were still open as usual, and the service was excellent.
The tours and excursions still went ahead, and I had a good shopping experience.

In the souks September was very humid.
I found it more challenging to walk around the palaces and stand in long queues.
The humidity was rather draining, and I found between 3.00pm and 7.00pm particularly warm and stuffy.
Marrakech is an all year round destination, so if you do decide to visit during the summer months, I have a few suggestions to help you cope with the heat..
Plan to visit tourist attractions in the morning as soon as they open.
If you pre book, you will avoid waiting in long queues in the heat, and there will be fewer people around.
Pace yourself.
Alternate between sightseeing and finding places in the shade to have a long cool drink and avoid too much sun exposure. There are plenty of beautiful spots with banana trees and beautiful tall palms to relax beneath.
Wear cotton or linen clothing.
Natural fibres are breathable and perfect for wearing in hot weather. Choose loose clothing that covers your arms and shoulders. They allow the air to circulate and help to evaporate sweat, keeping you cooler.
Stay hydrated.
Carry bottled water at all times to keep yourself from dehydrating.There are plenty of little kiosks dotted about selling reasonably priced water. Check the seals before purchasing for peace of mind.
Plan to do more during the evening.
Some of the tours begin later in the day, and trips to Agafay desert begin before sunset. The square comes alive in the evening, and most of the souks are still trading until quite late.
Wear high factor sunblock and keep your head covered.
The sun can be pretty fierce, and it’s easy to burn when you’re up on the rooftops, even in March.
Visit the water slides of Oasiria or bathe in the pools around the city.
Take advantage of the air conditioning available and consider taking an afternoon nap.
Don’t attempt to visit the Sahara unless it’s in the cooler months.
It’s important to remember that Marrakech is worth visiting all year round. However, it’s a personal choice, and you have to decide whether you can handle certain weather conditions or not.
If you follow these few simple rules, you should have an enjoyable visit whatever time of year you decide to travel.
It’s about planning your trip wisely.
Consider what it is you want from your experience.
Are you put off by crowds of tourists all crammed into the souks at the same time?
Can you handle the extreme heat, or are you happy to pack some clothing for cooler temperatures in January?
Whatever time you decide to go, I can tell you that the sun always shines in Marrakech, and the locals are always smiling..

- BACHA COFFEE.
Calling all coffee lovers,
This place is an absolute gem.

The interior of Bacha Coffee. With over 200 different coffees to choose from, this place is a coffee lovers paradise.
From the exuberant interior with beautifully tiled floors and plants to the finely dressed waiters in their elegant uniforms.
Bacha Coffee is a wonderful experience.
The service is impeccable, and the coffee from all over the world is incredible.
You do have to wait for a table, but you can wander around the museum with its exotic plants and Islamic architecture whilst you wait.







The museum and garden at Bacha Coffee You are given a bleeper to notify you when your table is ready.
Once inside, you are free to take your time to paw over the extensive menu and believe me..I couldn’t decide for ages.
I chose a Caribbean coffee from the Blue Mountains, and it didn’t disappoint.

It came served in beautiful little cups with fresh cream, chocolate chips, and an assortment of other interesting little delights to enhance the taste of the coffee.
I also had a slice of cake, which was delicately spiced and beautifully presented.
My tastebuds were in heaven.
I want to try every coffee on the menu, so I’ve promised myself I will go back again and again until I have.
That’s a lot of coffee.

Example of the coffee menu in Bacha Coffee. One thing to note,
The queues can be very long, so I suggest going early around 9.30 am when they first open.
The prices were fairly reasonable considering the quality of the food being served and the stunning decor, I was pleasantly surprised.
Whenever I return to Marrakech, I always make a point of going to Bacha Coffee.
Hopefully, I’ll eventually make my way through the hundreds of coffees on offer from around the world.
I’m certainly up for trying.
It’s worth visiting just to capture those perfect Instagram photos.


The beautiful interior inside Bacha Coffee You can also buy coffee to take home, and it comes beautifully packaged.
The ideal gift for someone special.

Bacha Coffee is an instagrammable place. Opening hours are,
Tuesday-Sunday 10.00am-6.00pm
I would recommend getting there for 9.30 a.m., ready for opening time, and joining the queues. It can get incredibly busy later in the day.
The address is,
Dar el Bacha, Rte Sidi
Abdelaziz Marrakech 40000
Morocco
- PIKALA CAFE.
A Healthy Cafe For Cycling Enthusiasts.

It’s a nice place to relax 
Detoxifying smoothies What a great little spot Pikala Cafe is.
I stumbled across it quite by accident on the way to another place.
It’s a quirky little spot which puts health above all else.
You can hire a bicycle here to cycle around Marrakech and the rates are pretty reasonable if you have the guts to do it.
The breakfasts are deliciously healthy, and they do an assortment of light snacks and smoothies, too.

Inside Pikala Cafe. The place itself is very pretty, with lots of little nooks to sit in either upstairs or down.
It is an open-air cafe, but since Marrakech doesn’t get too much rainfall, it isn’t generally a problem.
I had a wonderful detox smoothie, and it was absolutely invigorating.
I felt refreshed and ready for anything afterwards.
My daughter had a bowl of lentil soup, which she said was really tasty, and the bread was nice and fresh also.
The freshly made lemonade was very zesty and slightly bitter to my taste, but it seemed to be quite popular.

Pikola Cafe attracts a lot of fitness enthusiasts and is a really cool place to hang out.
Like everywhere else in Marrakech, the ingredients are always fresh and the quality of the food and drink is exceptional.
If you’re just looking for a light bite to eat or simply a nice place to rest for a while, Pikala Cafe is definitely worth checking out..



Inside Pikala Cafe Pikala Cafe opens from 9.00 am. daily and closes at 5.00pm.
Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, it closes at 10.00pm
The address is,
139 Arset, Aouzal Road, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.
- STAYING IN A TRADITIONAL RIAD.
The best way to immerse yourself in the culture of Marrakech.

Library inside a riad No-one should come to Marrakech and miss out on the wonderful experience of staying in a riad.
If you truly want a taste of Moroccan life, spending time in a riad with traditional tadelakt tiles and gurgling water features will give you just that.
Riads are the homes once lived in by the well-to-do of Marrakech. They are built around a central courtyard and have various citrus trees and foliage in the middle, reaching up through the open rooftop.
The roof top can be reached by climbing the tiled steps, where you will be greeted by colourful seating areas to escape from the heat and admire the views of the medina below.
The rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber fabrics, including cushions and bedding with the most exquisite patterns and colours.
I prefer to stay in the mid- range priced riads because they still maintain their original appearance, and it’s like being immersed into a tale from 1001 nights.
The higher priced riads are also very beautiful but tend to lose some of their authenticity for me.
Many riads have been renovated by Westerners to appeal to the needs of tourists. They are modern and have televisions and bidets in the rooms.
My choice of riad is a family owned property, one that still has it’s old world charm and feels as though I’m staying with a Moroccan family.



Some of the riads I have stayed in have a slightly rustic quality. They cook delicious home cooked food and offer a Hammam service.
Waking up to the sounds of birds singing in the trees, and the gentle flowing of water from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day.
The early morning sunshine reflecting off the beautifully tiled floors, puts you in a happy mood for the day.
Most riads provide their guests with breakfast, which is often sweeter than we are used to in the west. Some riads cook omelettes and there is always fresh orange and homemade yoghurts and jams served with traditional bread.
I love sunbathing on the rooftop, listening to the call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque and the musicians in the square.


In the evening, I like to watch the sunset as the Jamaa El Fnaa comes alive with thousands of visitors. You can hear vendors calling out to beckon them into their food stalls, the aroma of the food cooking catches your breathe and the merry throng of the street performers entertaining the masses can be heard.

The rooftop of Monriad Back in the courtyard, you feel as if you are in an oasis. The calm, peaceful environment is a far cry from what is happening outside the big heavy wooden door of the riad.
The sound of Moroccan music plays at low volume, adding to the spirit of the surroundings, creating an authentic experience.



Courtyard of a traditional riad When I stay in a riad, the people working there can’t do enough to ensure I have a brilliant time. They are kind and helpful, and nothing is too much trouble. They are always smiling and happy to chat with their guests about Marrakech and it’s history.
They suggest places where you can eat and can arrange excursions for their guests.
Many of the larger riads have swimming pools. They are a welcome retreat after the exhausting heat of the hot African sun.
I like to spend a few days having what I call a ‘riad experience’ just relaxing by the pool amongst the flora and fauna before heading off to do activities.




Whichever type of riad you choose to stay in, you won’t be disappointed.
It’s one of the most delightful experiences you can have whilst visiting Marrakech.
I can’t wait to return..

Many riads have a resident tortoise Ask for recommendations.
- COME ON A FASCINATING JOURNEY WITH ME TO THE RED CITY OF MARRAKECH.
An introduction to the red city of Marrakech in North Africa.
If Africa is a peacock, Morocco is its tail

Welcome to my blog featuring everything you need to know about Marrakech.
I include my own personal stories, experiences, and adventures, giving an authentic insight into the red city of Marrakech.
My name is Freebird Tracey, and I’ve been a regular visitor to Marrakech for many years.

As a solo female traveller, I have always felt safe travelling around Marrakech. The friendly locals treat me with respect wherever I go, always helpful and always with a smile.
I believe I have found my happy place in the sunshine amongst the fragrance of orange blossom, the vibrant colours, and the magical sounds of Jamaa El Fna.
Marrakech is a diverse and magical city, steeped in history.
From its beautiful Islamic architecture to the culinary delights and fine craftsmanship on display, there is something to tempt the senses on every corner.

I never get tired of exploring this alluring, magnetising corner of our planet.
There is always something new to see, and it’s full of little surprises.
Marrakech is an assault on the senses..
Allow me to take you on a fascinating journey to North Africa and show you how to make the most of your time in Marrakech.
I will share interesting articles and suggest the best places to eat, including vegetarian and vegan options.
I will tell you where to find cool bars that serve alcohol with live music.
If you’re interested in activities, excursions, or day trips, I will share some of my own personal experiences with you.
I will give you truthful opinions, honest reviews, and provide helpful suggestions to get the most out of your visit.
I share tips on how to stay safe and what to do to make sure you have the best experience whilst visiting Marrakech.
This is a tell-all blog at your fingertips..
So, buckle up and join me on a mind-blowing trip of a lifetime.
Let me introduce you to the sights, sounds, and tastes of the red city.
All beautifully entwined with each other,creating what can only be described as a little piece of heaven here on earth..

If you’re considering visiting Marrakech and need advice or help planning the perfect itinerary, please contact me via the email address below.