The Sound Of The Souks

Category: Culture space in Marrakech

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • The House of Photography.

    See a private collection of 10,000 rare exhibits.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The House of Photography is an important cultural venue in Marrakech. Housed in an old fondouk in the medina, a visit here is a fascinating journey through time.

    It was established by Patrick Manac’h and Hamid Mergani as a place where old photos taken in Morocco could be displayed for the public to view. It opened its doors to the public in 2009 and is now home to thousands of original documents, photographs, postcards, newspapers, and photographic glass plates.

    A private collection of 10,000 exhibits from 1879-1960, including contemporary photos from the present, allows visitors an opportunity to get to know the history of the Berber tribes in the high Atlas Mountains.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The first colour film recorded in the High Atlas Mountains in 1957, called ‘Landscapes and Faces of the High Atlas Mountains’ by Daniel Chicault, is also available for visitors to watch.

    The Museum of Photography is incredibly interesting, and the photos on display are well preserved, giving visitors to Marrakech a detailed account of how Berbers lived. I was fascinated by how the women dressed and their incredible hairstyles. Watching the video has broadened my knowledge about the history of Berber culture and their customs. It’s only as recent as the 1950s, yet they survived without electricity or medical care.

    The displays stay interesting because they changed them periodically, and at the time I visited, there was one about Berber Jews.

    Inside the museum, there is a rooftop cafe serving drinks, including speciality coffee and food. There are views across the rooftops of the medina, and you can see the Atlas mountains in the distance. It can get pretty busy during the lunchtime rush.

    You can purchase copies of some of the photographs in the entrance, and the quality of the prints is good. I bought a copy of Un Charmeur de Serpents – vers 1920, and it looks great in a vintage photo frame.

    The museum is open daily from 9.00 am until 7.00pm.

    The address is 46 rue Ahl Fes, Bin Lafnadek Marrakech 400030, not far from Ben Youssef Madrasa.

    Payment is on entry only, and it’s 80 dirhams for adults, 15 years old and under are free. The ticket also permits entry into the museum of music.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Ben Youssef Madrasa

    Visit a centuries old Koranic school.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ben Youssef Madrasa was once the largest and most important Islamic college in Morocco.

    It was commissioned by Saadian Sultan, Abdellah al- Ghaleb Assaadi in 1564-65 and named after the adjacent Ben Youseff mosque.

    It’s a fascinating place to visit with invaluable historical and cultural significance. The spectacular architecture inside the Madrasa is simply breathtaking and a testimony to the beauty of Islamic art and craftsmanship.

    Students who studied at the Madrasa would learn many subjects, including religious science, mathematics, philosophy, and medicine.The Madrasa attracted the best scholars and thinkers from the Arab Muslim world.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Ben Youseff Madrasa has been beautifully restored. Zellige tiles decorated with floral, geometric motifs and Arabic scripts adorn the walls. Carved cedarwood doors, ceilings, and intricately crafted pillars showcase the quality of the craftsmanship. It’s a prime example of the skill used to create traditional Islamic architecture.

    There are approximately 130 dormitories and in it’s heyday as a koranic school, the Madrasa housed around 900 students.The small rooms were just big enough for them to roll out their mats to sleep on.The main focus for each student was study and prayer.

    The rooms overlook the large courtyard, and tourists cram inside to have their photos taken standing in the window frames.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Ben Youseff Madrasa is one of the most touristic sightseeing spots in Marrakech. Due to its popularity, you have to get there early to appreciate the serene environment that the students would have lived in. If you arrive later in the day, expect huge crowds to jostle with each other for perfect photo opportunities.

    I visited at opening time, and although there was a small queue of people waiting to enter, it wasn’t too packed with tourists.

    Ben Youseff Madrasa is next to Marrakech Museum. The address is Rue Assoual, Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Opening times are 9.00 am until 7.00pm, except on Tuesdays when they close at 4.30 pm. The entrance fee is 70 dirhams.

    There are guided tours available to book online. Some include skipping the line entry. I didn’t bother booking a tour. There is information inside the Madrasa, which gave me an idea of what it would have been like to study there. For a more detailed history, a reputable, knowledgeable guide would be helpful.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee.

    Taste traditional Saharan Coffee. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir. It is here that rich aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand, gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.

    To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand. It’s an ancient technique of brewing coffee that involves no electricity, simply hot Merzouga sand.

    The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina. It is soothing and velvety.

    This charming little spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting. There is a small rooftop terrace where you can sit and enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of sheer self-indulgence

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.

    It’s an experience watching the coffee being made from rich arabica and fragrant spices. In moments, it has heated up as if by magic. I savoured its unique taste whilst congratulating myself for finding this amazing discovery in the alleyways of the souks.

    Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition. The friendly proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not just a cup of coffee. It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy souks.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.

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  • Cafe Clock.

    A cross-cultural cafe chain in the Kasbah.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Clock is a cultural hub based in Fes, Marrakech, and Chefchouen. It was founded by Mike Richardson when he visited Fes in 2006 and fell in love with the ancient city. It was named after the centuries old water clock situated on the facing wall of the Bou Inania Madrasa.

    Cafe Clock is now a buzzing hub of culture where you can sample its famous camel burgers. This lively space in the Kasbah district was once an old school house. It has since been converted and is renowned for its storytelling and live music events.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Clock is popular with young Moroccans learning the ancient traditional art of storytelling and travellers who are curious. There is nice energy here, and it’s a great place to come and chill.

    At Cafe Clock, you can take  cookery classes. You will be taken to the local markets to buy fresh ingredients before learning how to make a traditional Morroccan dish.

    The interior of Cafe Clock has been decorated by local artists who have added their own unique touch.Colourful vintage berber cushions and thrifted whimsical finds are displayed around a large open fire place. There is a homely atmosphere at Cafe Clock.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I visited during December, and it was cold outside. Sitting next to the roaring fire, listening to a live acoustic guitar made me feel warm and cosy.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is good and offers an interesting choice for vegetarians and vegans.I particularly recommend the falafel Super Bowl and vegetable pastilla.

    If you’re travelling around Morocco, Cafe Clock is also extending its empire into other areas like Chefchouen.

    Opening times for Cafe Clock are 9.00 am until 11.00pm daily. The address is 224 Derb Chtouka, Marrakech.

    Cafe Clock is a popular cultural space dedicated to keeping the ancient culture of Marrakech alive. Whether it’s traditional gnawa musicians or the best raconteurs in Marrakech, you can expect an entertaining experience here.

    Cafe Clock is also open for breakfast, with a good variety of choices on the menu.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Restaurant Le Jardin Ben Youssef.

    A pretty garden restaurant near Ben Youssef Madrasa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    This garden restaurant was a lucky find whilst I was trying to find the Museum of Perfume in the medina.

    Located within a space dedicated to female artisans,  this cooperative is a lovely place to have lunch. Blossoms of pretty flowers fill a large  courtyard garden. Plants and an attractive water feature make it feel peaceful and relaxing. It’s the perfect atmosphere to enjoy some ‘Me Time’.

    Despite it being the middle of December, the flowers were in full bloom. I could only imagine how beautiful it would look in the spring.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I ordered a vegetable tagine with a fruit smoothie, and the food was delicious.

    Friendly cats snoozed in the flower beds, and birds sang in the trees. The sun shone, and I was in my element sitting amongst a sea of pretty colours. The restaurant is a hidden gem, but I doubt it will be a secret for long.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The restaurant attracts tourists and locals alike and serves traditional Morroccan cuisine and European food. Prices are very reasonable and ideal for travellers on a tighter budget. The menu caters to vegetarians and vegans also. It is open daily from 9.30 until 10.00 and you can find it at Amsefah,Rte Sidi Abdelaziz.

    The restaurant is a garden with no indoor seating, so do check the weather forecast for rain before arriving.

    I loved relaxing at Le Jardin Ben Youssef. I will make a point of eating here each time I visit Marrakech. The staff were welcoming, and I felt perfectly comfortable sitting by myself. I enjoyed the peaceful setting away from the busy crowds. The secluded garden with its flora and fauna was just what I needed.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Pikala Cafe.

    A cafe for cycling enthusiasts 

    Pikala Cafe has a quirky, boho vibe. Amongst others, it attracts coworkers and health-conscious people. If you are brave, you can also hire bicycles here for the day to cycle around Marrakech.

    Pikala Cafe supports local youth by offering bicycle education and tours around the city. Profits support the Pikala Foundation, which fund bicycle projects and provide young locals with education and job opportunities.

    It’s a socially conscious cafe and cultural space serving vegetarian and vegan options. The breakfasts here are delicious, and they also do an assortment of snacks and healthy smoothies.

    The place itself is very pretty, with plenty of nooks to sit and relax in, including a nice rooftop. Being an open-air cafe, it is perfect when the heat becomes stifling in Marrakech. There are areas in the shade.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had the detox smoothie, and it was invigorating. I also opted for a bowl of lentil soup, which was really tasty. The bread was so fresh.

    On a separate occasion, I tried the freshly squeezed lemonade. It was zesty and tangy, giving me the boost I needed for tackling the busy souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Pikola Cafe attracts a lot of fitness enthusiasts and is a really cool place to hang out. The food is the highlight. Ingredients are always fresh. Therefore, the quality of the food and drink is of a high standard. Popular dishes  include baghrir pancakes and pitta bowls.

    If you’re looking for a bite to eat and a cool place to relax, Pikala Cafe is definitely worth checking out. They also have free WiFi.

    Pikala Cafe opens from 9.00 am. daily and closes at 5.00pm. On Thursdays, Fridays,and Saturdays, it closes at 10.00pm. The address is 139 Arset, Aouzal Road, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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