Sounds Of The Souks

Category: Food and Drink.

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

The best places for dining out in Marrakech.

  • Palais Dar Donab.

    A beautiful, peaceful environment serving authentic Morroccon food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is a special treat for visitors to Marrakech.

    The scent of orange blossom fills the air, and the sound of birds chirping in the courtyard gives a sense of complete peace and tranquillity whilst dining here.

    This was one of my favourite places to visit and I absolutely love it here.

    I keep going back time and time again.

    Sometimes, it is for a glass of wine during the afternoon and a welcome break from sightseeing.

    It’s a place where you can unwind and enjoy the sunny courtyard with its large pool in the centre.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is extensive with food to suit all palates.

    They also serve a decent selection of excellent wines and beers.

    I was really impressed with the quality of food and enjoyed each meal I have eaten in this fine restaurant.

    The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I have tried in Marrakesh, and the delicious smoothies were beautifully presented and full of fresh, vibrant fruit.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is also a high-end accommodation, where guests and visitors  mingle together for a quiet break from the busy medina.

    As you relax in the calm, tranquil surroundings, you never feel rushed.

    The pace is slow and calm.

    The staff are attentive, and at the same time, they allow you to enjoy the lovely, peaceful setting without feeling any pressure to leave.

    The gentle sound of the leaves on the trees and the trickling water make dining here a very pleasant experience.

    Tangerines fall from the trees, and you can hear the birds singing happily.

    Palais Dar Donab is open for lunch as well as dinner.

    The tables are set around a large pool with citrus trees lining the courtyard.

    Beautiful flowers add an array of colour.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Music is played subtly in the background, allowing conversation to flow and a nice laid-back atmosphere.

    Relaxing for an hour or so admiring the intricate craftsmanship that surrounds you is a perfect way to recharge your batteries.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I highly recommend trying Palais Dar Donab, not just for the quality of the food or the friendly service, but for the peace and serenity it offers.

    You come away feeling recharged and de-stressed after the overwhelming medina with crowds of tourists.

    It’s a pleasant oasis in comparison to the over stimulating Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Opening hours are,

    Monday-Sunday

    10.00am-10.30pm

    Address is,

    53 Dar el Basha-Bab,

    Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.

    The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit card payments.

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  • Zeitoune Cafe.

    Zeitoune Cafe has a perfect rooftop view across Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The view from the balcony of Zeitoune cafe overlooks the busy main square.

    It’s fun watching daily life take place from above all the action whilst having a spot of lunch.

    You can hear the drumming and gnawa music from what is considered the heartbeat of the city as you relax, away from the crowds of tourists.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    The food here is incredibly good, portions are large, and there are a variety of choices on the menu.

    The smoothies were gorgeous.

    I enjoyed a hearty salad for lunch and decided to try a strawberry smoothie.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Also, the obligatory olives, which often come with a meal in Marrakech, were very welcome.

    The lamb tagine with dried fruits is a  popular choice amongst diners here.

    However, if like myself you don’t eat meat, there are vegetarian and vegan options available.

    The breakfast is excellent  with a selection of refreshing juices and good coffee.

    Meals are competitively priced considering the quality of food served and the location overlooking the main square.

    Zeitoune Cafe is in a strategic location.

    It gets busy before sunset as tourists flock to watch the sun setting over the Jamaa El Fna.

    Finding a table during this time of evening might be difficult.

    Zeitoune Cafe is open all day from 9.00 am until 1.00 am, with the exception of Friday and Saturday when they close at 2.00am.

    They do not accept reservations, so it’s first come, first served.

    There are steps up to the balcony and upper floors, but for people with limited mobility, there is outdoor seating available.

    Zeitoune Cafes’ address is,

    107 Place Jamaa El Fnaa

    40000 Morocco

    There is also a Zeitoune Cafe in the kasbah.

    The outside seating is a wonderful place to people watch in the sunshine.

    It is located opposite the mosque.

    Zeitoune Cafe accepts credit card payments, too.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Le Marrakchi Restaurant.

    A popular restaurant with views over the Jamaa El Fna

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakchi restaurant glows a deep red across the square.

    This popular place facing Jamaa El Fna is a fine dining experience in tastefully decorated surroundings situated on,

    52 Rue des Banques, Av.

    Jamaa El Fna

    40000 Morocco

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Inside the restaurant, the feeling is intimate with dim lighting as candles flicker on the tables, giving a warm, cosy glow.

    It’s a busy restaurant  attracting a lot of tourists as it’s one of the few places selling alcohol in the square.

    It’s a family-friendly establishment and has plenty of food choices, including vegetarian and vegan options available.

    The vibe inside the restaurant is very relaxing despite it being a relatively busy place, constantly buzzing with energy.

    Outside, the walls take on a wonderful, red glow, which is very atmospheric and can be seen from across the square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The food is very good.

    I especially enjoyed the tagine that was accompanied by a spicy, Harissa sauce.

    The staff are attentive, friendly, and professional.

    The decor is traditionally Morroccan, with pretty lamps and comfortable, deep red couches along the windows overlooking the main square. There is also intricate tilework on some of the walls

    Le Marrakchi serves cocktails, and you are welcome to just visit for drinks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Prices are competitive for a licenced restaurant close to Jamaa El Fna.

    I went back several times because the vibe was very pleasant, and I enjoyed listening to the sounds of Jamaa El Fna outside the windows and the call to prayer.

    I didn’t feel rushed despite the fact that the restaurant was busy and people were coming and going throughout the evening.

    It was a relaxed, dining experience.

    There is a good selection of dishes on the menu, such as couscous, which is traditionally served on Fridays in Marrakesh.

    The bathroom facilities were excellent and fragrantly scented with orange blossom. .

    There are a few steps to climb to get into the restaurant, so it’s probably not ideal for people with mobility issues.

    Opening hours are 12.00-12.00am daily.

    They also offer a takeaway service.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Atay And Moroccan Pastries.

    Marrakech is known for its delicious sweets and pastries.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Colourful, boho decor and tempting pastries are the perfect way to take a much needed breather from the chaos of the souks.

    Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming at times.

    I realised that taking a break and pacing myself was the best way to thoroughly enjoy the experience.

    Navigating the maze of alleyways in the souks is exciting, and there is so much more to them than beautiful leather goods and Moroccan lamps.

    I especially love the sweets and pastries on offer.

    They are absolutely delicious and compliment the taste of traditional mint tea known as atay perfectly.

    There are so many pastries to choose from, and I decided to treat myself to a selection to see which my favourites are.

    The tea is very hydrating, and I especially enjoyed the taste of the almond pastries most of all.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If you are shopping for gifts  in the souks, I would highly recommend that you take some time out to rest and pace yourself.

    Sitting outside a cute little tea shop selling something nice and light like a few Moroccan pastries is perfect.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s a good way to engage in the culture of Marrakech by observing everything going on around you.

    Watching vendors calling out to tourists and bargaining the price of their wares is fun.

    Friendly waiters buzz around serving their customers with a big smile.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of places in the medina offering mint tea, traditional sweets, and pastries.

    The sweets are an absolute treat, but you will be spoilt for choice.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Part of the pleasure of exploring the medina is finding hidden gems.

    Places where you can sit and gather yourself before venturing back out into the crowds of tourists.

    Marrakech has an abundant supply of delicious sweets and pastries.

    They’re a light snack that won’t spoil your appetite for lunch or dinner.

    A few suggestions of places to try are,

    . Medina Kawa Marrakech.

    . La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices

    . Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.

    Check out my separate article about traditional Morroccan mint tea.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • L’Mdina  Restaurant.

    A great place serving authentic, quality food near the Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There’s a lively atmosphere with live music playing most evenings as you dine.

    L’Mdina has an interesting menu and includes a good variety of options.

    You can get a traditional tangia, which is  tender meat, cooked for hours in an earthenware pot, called a tangia.

    A tangia is often left to cook in the embers of the local hammam and collected later in the day.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The lamb is cooked to perfection, succulent, and tender.

    The fragrant aroma as it is tipped from the tangia onto the plate is mouthwatering.

    The salads are also delicious and creative, combining an interesting infusion of delicious flavours.

    I especially enjoyed the vegetable tagine, with root vegetables and chickpeas.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    L’Mdina is a restaurant serving Moroccan, Mediterranean, and international dishes with a traditional gastronomic touch.

    It is located about 2 minutes from the square.

    They also welcome people who simply want a coffee or just a drink at the bar whilst listening to some live music.

    The menu is suitable for vegetarians with vegan options also available.

    The restaurant seats 60 people and is beautifully decorated with an authentic Moroccan theme.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The musicians played a mix of traditional Morroccan and Latin American music.

    They entertain the diners without being too loud, so it is still possible to engage in conversation.

    It is a perfect setting.

    A combination of good food, a nice relaxed ambience, as well as being budget friendly.

    L’Mdina was busy, but I didn’t have to wait long.

    I was happy to be seated outside on a nice, warm evening.

    I was content experiencing the vibe of the restaurant mixed with the magic of the medina during evening time.

    L’Mdina is close enough to the main square for a break from the hustle and bustle, whilst still feeling a part of it. 

    It’s a place to go for an hour or so to recharge your batteries.

    There is a set menu at lunchtime for 85 dirhams, and it’s worth every penny.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you want a tasty meal, which is reasonably priced with some entertainment, I recommend giving L’mdina a try.

    The restaurant’s address is;

    42 rue des banque

    Marrakech 40000

    L’Mdina opens at 12 midday and closes at 23.00

    They accept card payments.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information about places to eat, contact me via the email address below;

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Le Salama Restaurant.

    A popular rooftop restaurant with traditional entertainment.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Salama is a modern restaurant with a lively atmosphere.

    The restaurant has a nice rooftop area that gets very busy and is extremely popular with tourists.

    I would recommend booking in advance for a table there as it fills up very early.

    The decor of the restaurant is traditionally Morroccan with an al fresco vibe.

    There are beautiful plants throughout the interior, and it feels like you are sitting outside in nature.

    There are two bars serving a range of alcoholic beverages and non alcoholic drinks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had eaten earlier, so I chose a plate of delicious Morroccan pastries with a cold glass of Casablanca beer.

    Other diners were enjoying a variety of excellent dishes from the menu, which looked very appealing.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    At 9.00pm each evening, the entertainment begins.

    Belly dancers dance around the tables, encouraging the diners to participate.

    It was fun to watch, and everyone in the restaurant appeared to be having a good time.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    I have to admit that the service was slightly slow. However, it was Ramadan, so exceptions have to be made during this month.

    I was by myself as a solo female traveller, and I didn’t feel conspicuous at all.

    The waiters were polite and helpful, and it didn’t seem to be a problem that I only ordered a dessert and one drink.

    I wasn’t pressured to leave, and I spent time enjoying the live entertainment.

    Le Salama is steps away from Jamaa El Fna.

    It’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat and recharge your batteries before stepping back out into the crowds of tourists in the busy main square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Salama can be found on,

    40 rue des banques, and it’s open until 2.00 am

    They serve a good range of cocktails and are open for lunch and dinner.

    They also have a children’s menu.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • La Fountaine Des Espices.

    A vibrant place to eat in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re looking for an authentic place to eat in the medina, try La Fountaine des Espices.

    I stumbled across this place by accident one evening, and I have to say I was very impressed.

    The food was incredibly tasty, and the decor was elegant and refined with a colourful, boho vibe.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I visited this strategically located restaurant a few times afterwards because I thoroughly enjoyed the food.

    They also have a nice rooftop overlooking the medina.

    It’s a great place to go for an afternoon drink and to lap up some sunshine.

    Staff at the restaurant are really friendly and helpful, making the experience of dining here an absolute pleasure.

    The prices were very competitive too.

    The restaurant serves traditional food, and it tastes authentic, like having a meal cooked by a Moroccan family.

    I highly recommend their smoothies.

    I chose the detox smoothie with apple, green lemon, celery, cucumber, and turmeric.

    It tasted delicious.

    There is plenty of choice on the menu, and they are beautifully presented with heaps of fresh fruit, making them a healthy alternative.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I opted for the vegetable tagine, and it was cooked to perfection.

    Service was quick, and the waiters were very attentive, regularly checking that I was happy.

    On another occasion, I tried the pastilla, and I loved it.

    It was a healthy sized portion, too.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fountaine des Espices is a great little spot if you’re looking for a good quality meal in a nice environment with highly competitive prices.

    It’s particularly nice during the evening with candles flickering on the tables,  giving off a nice romantic ambience whilst your dining.

    They serve breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.

    I often sit upstairs on the rooftop after a morning sightseeing.

    It’s a welcome break from the busy souks.

    The Fountaine des Espices is next to the Secret Garden, the address is,

    131 Rue Mouassine.

    It’s open from 10.00 am until 12.00 am,

    The busiest time is 3.00 pm, if you prefer it quieter arrive before then.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Visiting Marrakech On A Budget.

    Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a shoestring.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank

    In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.

    It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.

    I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.

    1.

    Book your flight early.

    The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.

    2.

    If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.

    3.

    Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.

    4.

    Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.

    5.

    Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.

    6.

    There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.

    Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate article about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.

    Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.

    Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.

    Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.

    7.

    Try a public hammam.

    I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.

    Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.

    You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.

    8.

    Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.

    Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.

    You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will find your way out eventually.

    There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.

    9.

    Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.

    10.

    Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.

    11.

    Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.

    12.

    Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.

    13.

    Spend some time in Tinsmiths Square. This is a less touristic square than Jamaa El Fnaa, and there is plenty to see going on. There are budget friendly cafes and restaurants and plenty of souvenir shops.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.

    It’s a destination that is great for everyone, including those on a tight budget.

    With some careful planning, you can put together an exciting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Henna Art Cafe.

    A whimsical place for lunch in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The first place I go after arriving in the medina is Henna Art Cafe.

    It’s the perfect spot to stop and refuel myself after my flight and the long queues at Marrakech Menara airport.

    Henna Art Cafe is a  place where I can familiarise myself with where I am and check Google maps for the location of my riad.

    It’s a quirky place with decent food and the funkiest little bathroom, even if it is a bit of a tight squeeze.

    On the first floor, you can get henna tattoos done, and there are plenty of designs to choose from.

    All are 100% natural, and the henna ladies are very professional.

    I would recommend getting your henna tattoo done in a reputable place like here as opposed to Jamaa El Fna.

    Henna Art Cafe has a really relaxing vibe, and I often stop by to enjoy a meal at lunchtime whilst shopping in the medina.

    It’s also very reasonable if you’re on a tight budget.

    There is a good selection of food on the menu, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options are available.

    There is free WiFi, and it’s popular with digital nomads.

    It’s a friendly place and a good introduction to the medina without being too overly stimulating.

    Henna Art Cafe is located in the heart of the medina, just a three minutes stroll down Riad Zeitoun al Kdim from Djemma El Fna.

    It is open 7 days a week from 11 to 8.30 PM.

    During Ramadan, it closes earlier at 5.30 PM.

    I recommend the freshly squeezed lemon juice. It’s tangy and refreshing and packed with vitamin C.

    Henna Art Cafe does a nice fragrant tagine, but if you’ve overdosed on tagine or couscous, there are plenty of other interesting options on the menu.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Payment for your meal is taken downstairs on the way out, and cards are accepted here.

    After a nice meal and a rest at Henna Art Cafe, I’m always ready to tackle the challenge of trying to locate my riad.

    My battery is recharged, and I have begun to climatise to the change of temperature between my own country and that of North Africa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I have a soft spot for this quirky little cafe.

    Henna Art Cafe was my first introduction to the medina, and I was eased into the cultural change with my first bowl of harissa soup and traditional Morroccan bread.

    I could say this is where my love affair with Marrakech began..

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Traditional Moroccan Mint Tea

    Mint tea is practically a ritual in Marrakesh.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive at your riad.

    At this point, you’re feeling lightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.

    The manager of the riad gives you the warmest welcome and guides you into the beautiful courtyard.

    You sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water from the fountain and smell the fragrance of blossom on the trees.

    Slowly, you begin to unwind.

    The manager reappears with an ornate teapot with colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. 

    The tea is poured, holding the teapot higher and higher.

    This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.

    The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.

    You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.

    It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    The aroma from the fresh mint leaves begins to fill the air around you.

    Soon, you are feeling refreshed and accustomed to your new surroundings.

    After you have drank your sweet tea and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic.

    The image of Google Maps not working and dragging your luggage through narrow alleyways crammed with tourists starts to become a distant memory.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Mint tea is served everywhere in Marrakech.

    It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit inside cafes chatting with their friends.

    I highly recommend 1112 Moroccan Tea House. They serve wonderful tea, and there is a room telling you all about the history of the tea.

    It’s situated inside a beautiful riad, and it’s the first Moroccan tea house in Marrakech.

    I’ve also written a separate article about 1112 Moroccan Tea House.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Drinking mint tea is a central part of Moroccan social life.

    The name for mint tea is ‘atay’ in Moroccan darija

    It is known by the locals as  ‘Morroccan Whisky’

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The tea is made using gunpowder green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is often sweetened with sugar cubes before serving.

    If you find it a bit too sweet, ask to have the sugar cubes separately.

    That way, you have control over how sweet it is.

    Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, and the strong aroma is evident when you walk past.

    You can purchase the ornate tea glasses in the souks, along with the traditional teapots, they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.

    Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate and can break easily.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Moroccan mint tea has many health benefits.

    It improves digestion, helps to improve oral health, is a natural decongestant, and provides antioxidants that support good mental well-being, skincare, and alertness.

    Sipping mint tea overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a nice way to experience Marrakech.

    It’s a big part of a fascinating culture.

    One you will remember for a very long time.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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