Sounds Of The Souks

Category: Helpful Tips

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

Useful information to help you get the best out of your travels.

  • FIVE THINGS I LOVE AND HATE ABOUT MARRAKECH.

    A list of my favourite and more challenging things in Marrakech.

    Colourful Babouches

    Marrakech is ‘my happy place’. It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Hivernage in the new part of the city.

    Visitors may find the experience to be an assault on the senses.

    The lively sounds, sights, and smells can be a complete overload on the senses and somewhat overwhelming to the most seasoned traveller.

    However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech.

    You do become accustomed to it, and it’s part of the charm of Marrakech.

    I have made a list of the 5 things that I myself love and hate about this fascinating city to help you get the most out of your visit.

    Here are the 5 things I hate about Marrakech.

    1.

    If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.

    The monkeys on chains and the snakes (which you are encouraged to have a photo taken with) are difficult to accept.

    Don’t encourage this.

    The monkies have been brought down from the Atlas mountains, and although people need to make a living, they clearly don’t want to be there.

    Then there are the horses, taking tourists through busy traffic and the donkeys pulling carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.

    The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.

    The donkeys look overworked and neglected.

    It’s the culture of the city, but very different from what I’m used to.

    I avoided eye contact with the  snake charmers and monkeys in the square, and they stopped approaching me eventually.

    There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of the riads.

    They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring as a rule.

    If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.

    I joined Brooke, a sanctuary, for working animals abroad when I arrived home.

    I can’t change how people earn their money, but I can help to educate them.

    2.

    Queueing at the airport.

    Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so get used to it.

    Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.

    You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.

    Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.

    Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.

    3.

    Marrakech is touristy.

    The narrow alleys of the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.

    Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.

    Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it will certainly feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.

    Tip: Plan to visit in January or November to avoid the crowds.

    It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.

    There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will get that perfect photo opportunity.

    Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors. They don’t feel comfortable about it and may even expect a payment from you.

    4.

    The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks.

    Everyone in Marrakech seems to own a motorcycle, and they all appear to be riding them at the same time.

    The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.

    This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.

    There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get busy.

    Around 9.00 is an ideal time.

    There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.

    Pollution is fairly bad, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.

    5.

    The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.

    During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.

    This includes the locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.

    The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors can follow you persistently with a menu to get your custom.

    Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries of what’s considered to be harassment

    It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations

    The henna ladies are also demanding your custom.

    It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them without your consent.

    Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to make eye contact with any of the vendors.

    Saying “ La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.

    It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.

    Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.

    Whilst it’s difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors vying for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive.

    Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.

    So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

    A lovely man shows me inside the Hammam/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’

    I am absolutely in love with this city.

    Here’s why…

    1.

    The people are wonderful.

    You can expect to encounter the friendliest and most welcoming people you have ever met.

    They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.

    They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.

    They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.

    It’s absolutely fascinating, and it’s possible to stay with Amazigh people in the Atlas mountains during your trip.

    The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the riad owners go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.

    I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.

    They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard. The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.

    They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after the exhilaration outside.

    NB: I have a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.

    2.

    The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship.

    If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful colours and intricate designs, you will be in paradise in the Souks.

    You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products

    You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items at a decent price.

    Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.

    Just be prepared to barter.

    3.

    The food is delicious.

    There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.

    There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.

    The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.

    I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.

    The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.

    Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in

    It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.

    Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.

    There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found around the square.

    This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists and locals than those people who prefer fine dining.

    Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer and the stunning restaurant settings.

    I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee ( see my separate post)

    There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.

    You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.

    4.

    The architecture is absolutely stunning.

    There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely astonishing.

    Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.

    The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.

    I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,

    . Bahia Palace.

    . Madrasa Ben Youssef.

    . The saadian Tombs.

    . The Koutoubia Mosque.

    . The Secret Garden.

    . Bacha Museum.

    Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.

    5.

    Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places

    I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.

    I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..

    There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience the monkeys.

    You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.

    If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.

    Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.

    Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

    Ouzoud Waterfall.

    There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.

    Here are a few other things to take into consideration..

    Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.

    Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.

    I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.

    Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.

    Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

    If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity,

    A place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet  perfectly functional,

    A place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,

    Then Marrakech is for you.

    I would recommend doing your research before visiting. Watch YouTube videos and read travel blogs.

    Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge before you arrive so that you will know what to expect.

    That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will stay with you forever.

    Intricately tiled fountain.

    Continue reading for more information about the places mentioned in this post..

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  • GETTING AROUND MARRAKECH.

    The best options for exploring the red city.

    Walking around Marrakech

    Marrakech is easily doable on foot.

    If you’re staying in the medina, you can get to most places relatively quickly by walking.

    If this is not easy for you or the heat is a bit much, the other option is to take a tuk- tuk.

    Most riads can organise a pick-up point and give the driver directions to where you need to go.

    It’s a fun way to get around, and some of them are rather elaborately decorated.

    They rattle through the souks, competing with the motorcycles, donkeys, and pedestrians.

    Another option is to take a taxi.

    Check with your hotel or riad beforehand, and find out how much you should be paying to travel the distance you want to go.

    It’s not uncommon for taxi drivers to try to charge more, so stick to your guns and, if necessary, walk away.

    There are plenty of drivers available, and they are all competing with each other for fares, so you don’t have to put up with being ripped off.

    I only used taxis to get from the medina to Jardin Majorelle and Gueliz. It was a warm day, and I didn’t feel like walking in the sun.

    After a little polite negotiation, there were no problems, and I paid the correct fare, give or take a few dirhams.

    There are many tourists who pay to see the city on horse-drawn carriages.

    Horse-drawn carriage in Marrakech

    The horses are taken into the chaotic traffic, and I’ve witnessed a few upsetting incidents where they’ve been hit by a car.

    There doesn’t appear to be any rules on the roads, and they’re pretty crazy. The horses look scared and I’ve seen them freeze in the centre of the traffic.

    It’s a personal decision if you want to take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage. However, I would suggest only going around the medina walls and during the evening.

    It’s quieter for the horses than the madness of the busy main roads in the exhausting heat.

    Part of the fun in Marrakesh is walking from A to B..

    There are so many interesting things to see and you miss so much if you don’t walk.

    I especially enjoyed walking through the kasbah, seeing the locals going about their business and getting a feel for the real Marrakech.

    There are also walking tours around Marrakech, which you can book.

    These tours take you around the tourist hot spots, usually in a group of people.

    NB. There are separate tours for food sampling.

    It’s also possible to hire a bicycle if you’re brave enough.

    Check out Cafe Pikala for bicycle hire. It’s very popular.

    The Alsa bus runs around Marrakech for about 2 dirhams. The numbers 1 and 16 will ferry you between the medina and Gueliz.

    For venturing further, there are trains going to places like Casablanca daily.

    There is a good service, and prices and times can be found online.

    A rest in the shade after walking around Marrakech
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.comt

  • THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MARRAKECH.

    Marrakech is an all year round destination.

    However, there are a few things you may want to consider before planning your trip.

    I’ve put together a few helpful tips to help you decide when to travel..

    Jamaa El Fna when it’s quiet

    Marrakech has a high desert climate so it is pleasant all year round.

    During the summer months, temperatures can reach a staggering 45°C or higher, which a lot of visitors find unbearably hot.

    The Winter months can be moderately warm and sunny, feeling chillier in the evenings.

    I suggest the best time to go is during the spring, from March till May or in autumn, from September till November.

    March sees warm, sunny weather, and you can dine on the rooftops in the evening. However, I would recommend taking a lightweight jacket to throw on if it feels a bit chilly.

    It gets warmer as the month progresses.

    March is the wettest month experiencing 12mm of rain over a day, so it is worth bearing this in mind also.

    June is the driest month with 1mm of rainfall over one day but temperatures in June and July do tend to soar.

    This might make excursions and activities more uncomfortable.

    If you prefer going when there are less tourists, I would suggest January to February.

    The climate is sunny, with average highs of 19°C and lows of 6°C during the evening.

    This would be the ideal time to visit if you’re put off by crowds and long queues.

    Another thing to consider is that Ramadan takes place between February and April, so some stores and restaurants may be closed.

    I choose to visit in late March and late September.

    The Jacaranda trees along the main roads in Gueliz look really beautiful, and the air is really fragrant at this time of year.

    Gueliz in September

    The last time I went during March, it was quite hot, and I actually got sunburnt.

    It was Ramadan, but it didn’t have a negative effect on my trip. Most places were still open as usual, and the service was excellent.

    The tours and excursions still went ahead, and I had a good shopping experience.

    In the souks

    September was very humid.

    I found it more challenging to walk around the palaces and stand in long queues.

    The humidity was rather draining, and I found between 3.00pm and 7.00pm particularly warm and stuffy.

    Marrakech is an all year round destination, so if you do decide to visit during the summer months, I have a few suggestions to help you cope with the heat..

    Plan to visit tourist attractions in the morning as soon as they open.

    If you pre book, you will avoid waiting in long queues in the heat, and there will be fewer people around.

    Pace yourself.

    Alternate between sightseeing and finding places in the shade to have a long cool drink and avoid too much sun exposure. There are plenty of beautiful spots with banana trees and beautiful tall palms to relax beneath.

    Wear cotton or linen clothing.

    Natural fibres are breathable and perfect for wearing in hot weather. Choose loose clothing that covers your arms and shoulders. They allow the air to circulate and help to evaporate sweat, keeping you cooler.

    Stay hydrated.

    Carry bottled water at all times to keep yourself from dehydrating.There are plenty of little kiosks dotted about selling reasonably priced water. Check the seals before purchasing for peace of mind.

    Plan to do more during the evening.

    Some of the tours begin later in the day, and trips to Agafay desert begin before sunset. The square comes alive in the evening, and most of the souks are still trading until quite late.

    Wear high factor sunblock and keep your head covered.

    The sun can be pretty fierce, and it’s easy to burn when you’re up on the rooftops, even in March.

    Visit the water slides of Oasiria or bathe in the pools around the city.

    Take advantage of the air conditioning available and consider taking an afternoon nap.

    Don’t attempt to visit the Sahara unless it’s in the cooler months.

    It’s important to remember that Marrakech is worth visiting all year round. However, it’s a personal choice, and you have to decide whether you can handle certain weather conditions or not.

    If you follow these few simple rules, you should have an enjoyable visit whatever time of year you decide to travel.

    It’s about planning your trip wisely.

    Consider what it is you want from your experience.

    Are you put off by crowds of tourists all crammed into the souks at the same time?

    Can you handle the extreme heat, or are you happy to pack some clothing for cooler temperatures in January?

    Whatever time you decide to go, I can tell you that the sun always shines in Marrakech, and the locals are always smiling..

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • STAYING IN A TRADITIONAL RIAD.

    The best way to immerse yourself in the culture of Marrakech.

    Library inside a riad

    No-one should come to Marrakech and miss out on the wonderful experience of staying in a riad.

    If you truly want a taste of Moroccan life, spending time in a riad with traditional tadelakt tiles and gurgling water features will give you just that.

    Riads are the homes once lived in by the well-to-do of Marrakech. They are built around a central courtyard and have various citrus trees and foliage in the middle, reaching up through the open rooftop.

    The roof top can be reached by climbing the tiled steps, where you will be greeted by colourful seating areas to escape from the heat and admire the views of the medina below.

    The rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber fabrics, including cushions and bedding with the most exquisite patterns and colours.

    I prefer to stay in the mid- range priced riads because they still maintain their original appearance, and it’s like being immersed into a tale from 1001 nights.

    The higher priced riads are also very beautiful but tend to lose some of their authenticity for me.

    Many riads have been renovated by Westerners to appeal to the needs of tourists. They are modern and have televisions and bidets in the rooms.

    My choice of riad is a family owned property, one that still has it’s old world charm and feels as though I’m staying with a Moroccan family.

    Some of the riads I have stayed in have a slightly rustic quality. They cook delicious home cooked food and offer a Hammam service.

    Waking up to the sounds of birds singing in the trees, and the gentle flowing of water from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day.

    The early morning sunshine reflecting off the beautifully tiled floors, puts you in a happy mood for the day.

    Most riads provide their guests with breakfast, which is often sweeter than we are used to in the west. Some riads cook omelettes and there is always fresh orange and homemade yoghurts and jams served with traditional bread.

    I love sunbathing on the rooftop, listening to the call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque and the musicians in the square.

    In the evening, I like to watch the sunset as the Jamaa El Fnaa comes alive with thousands of visitors. You can hear vendors calling out to beckon them into their food stalls, the aroma of the food cooking catches your breathe and the merry throng of the street performers entertaining the masses can be heard.

    The rooftop of Monriad

    Back in the courtyard, you feel as if you are in an oasis. The calm, peaceful environment is a far cry from what is happening outside the big heavy wooden door of the riad.

    The sound of Moroccan music plays at low volume, adding to the spirit of the surroundings, creating an authentic experience.

    Courtyard of a traditional riad

    When I stay in a riad, the people working there can’t do enough to ensure I have a brilliant time. They are kind and helpful, and nothing is too much trouble. They are always smiling and happy to chat with their guests about Marrakech and it’s history.

    They suggest places where you can eat and can arrange excursions for their guests.

    Many of the larger riads have swimming pools. They are a welcome retreat after the exhausting heat of the hot African sun.

    I like to spend a few days having what I call a ‘riad experience’ just relaxing by the pool amongst the flora and fauna before heading off to do activities.

    Whichever type of riad you choose to stay in, you won’t be disappointed.

    It’s one of the most delightful experiences you can have whilst visiting Marrakech.

    I can’t wait to return..

    Many riads have a resident tortoise

    Ask for recommendations.

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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