Sounds Of The Souks

Category: Interesting facts about Marrakech

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • The Marrakchi Cats.

    The life of a cat in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the things you will notice when you’re in Marrakech is the number of stray cats everywhere.

    I was surprised to see so many, especially around the busy square, and in the souks.

    They seemed to dodge the many motorcycles and hide inconspicuously under the juice stalls.

    There were cats sleeping on rugs and cushion covers in the souks, and lazing about without a care in the world.

    I witnessed strays giving birth to kittens inside alleyways and watched as cats prowled across rooftop perimeters at dawn.

    Five years ago, when I first visited Marrakech, I took pity on the cute little kittens hanging around outside my riad.

    They looked thin and hungry, I wanted to do something to help them..

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I purchased a couple of tins of sardines and carefully wrapped the leftovers from my dinner into napkins.

    I found a couple of cats and strategically placed the food in a safe place for them.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The next minute, there were  so many cats appearing out of nowhere, also demanding to be fed.

    This made me feel very guilty because I’d only managed to afford them a few tiny morsels.

    It was a case of first come, first served..

    I went back to the UK feeling a little sorry for all the homeless cats who alerted passing tourists of their existence with a gentle mewing and extended paw.

    The next time I arrived at marrakech, I saw things from a different perspective.

    I stayed in three separate riads, and each one had a resident cat, who was very well cared for.

    I noticed restaurants leaving food outside their premises and butchers dropping scraps of meat on the floor for the local cat population to eat.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Many of the cats were being looked after, and some were actually thriving on the titbits and bowls of food dotted around the medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There was only one upsetting incident where a young man was sitting with a kitten on his lap, and it was holding a business card in its paws.

    On closer inspection, it isn’t something I ever want to see again, and I don’t feel the need to go into more detail here..

    I’m sure you can imagine what I saw.

    That was the only startling discovery I have made.

    On the whole, the cats appear to be relatively content.

    They don’t exist in the way domesticated cats do in the west, but they’re not being ill treated any more than anywhere else in the world.

    I even saw a man get off his motorcycle in the busy souk and move a little kitten to the safety of an alleyway.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re coming to Marrakech, seeing all the stray cats may shock you initially.

    I was exactly the same, but after closer observation, I came to the conclusion that the situation wasn’t as dire as I first thought.

    There are plenty of little pools of water around the city for the cats to drink from, and some vendors leave glasses of water out for them.

    The crazy traffic and crowds of tourists seem to be the biggest problem, but the cats have learnt how to navigate their way around.

    I’m happy to say that I haven’t seen an injured cat at the side of any of the roads around Marrakech yet.

    There are tourists who are rescuing stray cats around Marrakech and taking them back to European countries.

    They are working with local vets to get injured cats treated and all the necessary vaccinations done before taking them out of the country.

    The cats in Marrakesh have learnt how to survive.

    They only know this life, and people are kind and compassionate towards them on the whole.

    Plus, I’ve never seen a single rat in Marrakesh..

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Traditional Moroccan Mint Tea

    Mint tea is practically a ritual in Marrakesh.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive in your riad slightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.

    The owner of the riad gives you the warmest welcome with the biggest smile across his face as he guides you into the beautiful courtyard.

    As you sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water in the fountain and smell the scent of the blossom on the trees, slowly you begin to unwind.

    The owner reappears with an ornate teapot and colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. He begins pouring the fresh mint tea, holding the teapot higher and higher as he pours.

    You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.

    The aroma from the fresh mint leaves is wonderful..

    You begin to feel refreshed as the fragrant scent fills the air.

    This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.

    The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.

    It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.

    After you have drank your tea sweetened with sugar cubes and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic…

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Mint tea is everywhere in Marrakech.

    It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit in cafes chatting with their friends.

    The name for mint tea is ‘atay’ in Moroccan darija

    It is known by the locals as  ‘Morroccan Whisky’

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The tea is made using green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is already sweetened with sugar before serving.

    If you find it a bit too sweet, try it before adding sugar cubes.

    Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, alongside other herbs and spices, and the aromatic aroma tempts the tastebuds.

    You can purchase the little tea glasses in the souks, and they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.

    Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Sipping mint tea and overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a very enjoyable experience in Marrakech.

    One you will remember for years to come..

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • When Is The Best Time For Visiting Marrakech?

    Marrakech is an all year round destination.

    I’ve put together a few helpful tips to help you decide when you should travel to Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech has a high desert climate so it is pleasant all year round.

    During the summer months, temperatures can reach a staggering 45°C or higher, which a lot of visitors find unbearably hot.

    The Winter months can be moderately warm and sunny, feeling chillier in the evenings.

    I suggest the best time to go is during the spring, from March till May or in autumn, from September till November.

    Springtime sees warm, sunny weather, and you can still dine on the rooftops in the evening.

    I would recommend taking a lightweight jacket or jumper to throw on as temperatures can drop after sunset.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    March is the wettest month experiencing 12mm of rain over a day and the occasional storm.

    Be prepared by carrying an umbrella and wearing sensible footwear.

    June is the driest month with 1mm of rainfall over one day but temperatures in June and July do tend to soar.

    This might make excursions and activities more uncomfortable if you’re walking around in the heat.

    Suncream is essential because you can not underestimate the power of the hot Moroccan sun.

    Carrying bottled water with you is important so that you don’t become dehydrated.

    ( I have included a few more useful tips below)

    If you prefer going when there are less tourists, I would suggest January to February.

    The climate is sunny, with average highs of 19°C and lows of 6°C during the evening.

    This would be the ideal time to visit if you’re put off by huge crowds and long queues at popular sightseeing destinations.

    Another thing to consider is that Ramadan takes place between February and April, so some stores and restaurants may be closed.

    Many do stay open, but the vibe can feel slightly different.

    I choose to visit in late March and late September or early October.

    The Jacaranda trees along the main roads in Gueliz look really beautiful, and the air is really fragrant at this time of year.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    March was quite hot, but heavy thunderstorms were also frequent.

    The sky was very dramatic and held its own kind of beauty..

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There were plenty of tourists, and the souks were difficult to negotiate.

    That was part of the fun, but for some people, the crowds can be overwhelming.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    September can be humid.

    I found it more challenging to walk around the palaces and stand in long queues in the humidity.

    I found between 3.00pm and 7.00pm particularly warm and sticky, so try to get most sightseeing done in the early morning.

    Afternoons can be a good time to relax by the pool or take a nap in your hotel or riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is an all year round destination, so if you do decide to visit during the summer months, here are a few suggestions to help you cope with the heat..

    Plan to visit tourist attractions in the morning as soon as they open.

    If you pre book, you will avoid waiting in long queues in the heat, and there will be fewer people around.

    Pace yourself.

    You don’t have to rush around. Many places stay open quite late in the evening.

    Alternate between sightseeing and finding places in the shade to have a long rest with a cool drink to avoid too much sun exposure. There are plenty of beautiful spots with banana trees and beautiful tall palms to relax beneath.

    Wear natural fibres like cotton or linen clothing.

    They are breathable and perfect for wearing in hot weather. Choose loose clothing that covers your arms and shoulders. They allow the air to circulate and help to evaporate sweat, keeping you cooler.

    ( I have written an article on suitable clothing for Marrakech)

    Stay hydrated.

    Carry bottled water at all times to keep yourself from dehydrating.There are plenty of little kiosks dotted around the medina selling reasonably priced water.

    Check the seals before purchasing for peace of mind.

    Plan to do more during the evening when it’s cooler.

    Some of the tours begin later in the day, and trips to Agafay desert begin just before sunset.

    The square comes alive in the evening, so most of the souks are still trading until late because people are still present.

    Wear high factor sunblock and keep your head covered.

    The sun can be pretty fierce, even as early as March.

    Visit the water slides of Oasiria.

    Take advantage of the air conditioning available and consider taking an afternoon nap.

    Visiting the Sahara desert will be blisteringly hot in summertime.  Consider going in the cooler months when days are still warm but not unbearable.

    Remember, evenings get cold in the desert.

    Marrakech is a wonderful city all year round.

    If you follow these few simple rules, you should have an enjoyable visit whichever time of year you decide to travel.

    It’s about planning your trip beforehand.

    Consider what it is you want from your experience.

    Are you put off by crowds of tourists all crammed into the souks at the same time?

    Can you handle the extreme heat, or would you prefer the cooler temperatures in December or January?

    Whichever time you decide to travel to Marrakech, the locals are always smiling, and there’s always plenty to do and see..

    Read my article about visiting Marrakech in winter.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Staying In A Traditional Riad In The Medina.

    The best way to immerse yourself in the culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    No-one should come to Marrakech and miss out on the wonderful experience of staying in a riad.

    If you truly want a taste of authentic Moroccan life, spending time in a riad with traditional zellige tiles and the sound of trickling water from the fountain in the central courtyard will give you just that.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riads are the homes once lived in by the well-to-do of Marrakech.

    They are built around a central courtyard with the windows facing inwards and have citrus trees and lush foliage in the middle, reaching up through the open rooftop.

    Many have a small pool for cooling off in, and most of them still have their original fountains.

    The rooftop can be reached by climbing the steep tiled steps, where you will be greeted by colourful seating areas to escape from the heat and admire the incredible views of the medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber artefacts, which include colourful traditional rugs,cushions, and exquisitely handcrafted furniture.

    I prefer mid-range riads because they still maintain their original appearance, and it’s like being immersed in a tale from 1001 nights.

    Some of the original tiles from hundreds of years ago are still visible, and they exude character.

    The higher priced riads are also very beautiful but are modernised to cater to tourists.

    They include bidets and television sets in the rooms.

    All riads are charming, and it all depends on whether you favour luxury over authenticity.

    My choice of riad is a family owned property, one that still has it’s old world charm and feels as though I’m staying with a Moroccan family.

    A 1001 Arabian Nights experience.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Most riads cook delicious home cooked food for their guests and offer cooking lessons.

    There is also a hammam available in most riads.

    This is a wonderful experience, and something everyone who comes to Marrakech should indulge in at least once.

    Rooms in a riad are usually slightly dark inside.

    This keeps them cool in the summer when temperatures can exceed 50°

    Waking up to the sound of birds singing in the trees and the gentle flowing of water burbling from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day.

    The early morning sunshine reflecting off the beautifully tiled floors, puts you in a happy mood for the day.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Most riads provide their guests with a hearty breakfast, which is sweeter than we are used to in the west.

    Some riads cook omelettes, and there is always fresh orange juice and homemade yoghurts and jams served with traditional bread.

    The msemen pancakes served with honey and amlou are my absolute favourite.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I love sunbathing on the rooftop, listening to the call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque.

    If you’re staying near Jamaa El Fna,you can hear the gnawa musicians and the drumming in the distance.

    This is a true immersion in the culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    In the evening, I like to watch the sunset from the rooftop.

    At dusk, Jamaa El Fnaa comes alive with thousands of visitors.

    You can hear the vendors calling out to beckon tourists into their food stalls.

    The aroma of the food cooking catches your breath.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Back in the courtyard, you feel as though you are in an oasis.

    This calm and peaceful environment is a far cry from what is happening outside the big, heavy wooden door of the riad.

    The sound of  gentle music plays quietly in the  background, creating a sense of tranquillity.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Staff at the riad can suggest places where you can eat and also arrange popular excursions for their guests.

    They are eager to please their guests and go above and beyond the call of duty.

    Staying in a traditional riad has a more intimate feeling than a hotel does.

    I like to spend a few days having what I call, a riad experience..

    Enjoying the culture of Marrakech like a true local.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Whichever type of riad you choose to stay in, you won’t be disappointed.

    Whether it’s a former palace or a family owned business, it’s one of the most delightful experiences you can have whilst visiting Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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