The Sound Of The Souks

Category: Things to do in Marrakech

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • Ben Youssef Madrasa

    Visit a centuries old Koranic school.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ben Youssef Madrasa was once the largest and most important Islamic college in Morocco.

    It was commissioned by Saadian Sultan, Abdellah al- Ghaleb Assaadi in 1564-65 and named after the adjacent Ben Youseff mosque.

    It’s a fascinating place to visit with invaluable historical and cultural significance. The spectacular architecture inside the Madrasa is simply breathtaking and a testimony to the beauty of Islamic art and craftsmanship.

    Students who studied at the Madrasa would learn many subjects, including religious science, mathematics, philosophy, and medicine.The Madrasa attracted the best scholars and thinkers from the Arab Muslim world.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Ben Youseff Madrasa has been beautifully restored. Zellige tiles decorated with floral, geometric motifs and Arabic scripts adorn the walls. Carved cedarwood doors, ceilings, and intricately crafted pillars showcase the quality of the craftsmanship. It’s a prime example of the skill used to create traditional Islamic architecture.

    There are approximately 130 dormitories and in it’s heyday as a koranic school, the Madrasa housed around 900 students.The small rooms were just big enough for them to roll out their mats to sleep on.The main focus for each student was study and prayer.

    The rooms overlook the large courtyard, and tourists cram inside to have their photos taken standing in the window frames.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Ben Youseff Madrasa is one of the most touristic sightseeing spots in Marrakech. Due to its popularity, you have to get there early to appreciate the serene environment that the students would have lived in. If you arrive later in the day, expect huge crowds to jostle with each other for perfect photo opportunities.

    I visited at opening time, and although there was a small queue of people waiting to enter, it wasn’t too packed with tourists.

    Ben Youseff Madrasa is next to Marrakech Museum. The address is Rue Assoual, Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Opening times are 9.00 am until 7.00pm, except on Tuesdays when they close at 4.30 pm. The entrance fee is 70 dirhams.

    There are guided tours available to book online. Some include skipping the line entry. I didn’t bother booking a tour. There is information inside the Madrasa, which gave me an idea of what it would have been like to study there. For a more detailed history, a reputable, knowledgeable guide would be helpful.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Maison Culturelle Du Tapis.

    Learn about the history of Berber carpet weaving.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Maison Culturelle du Tapis is tucked away in the souks and a place you must see if you’re in Marrakech. It’s a museum containing a remarkable exhibition of Berber carpets and a journey through the ancestral history of the tribes who created them. Beautiful carpets are draped along the walls of this boutique museum, each one made by different tribes and eras in Moroccan history.

    Situated deep within the medina at 16-18 Derb Deffa Ourbaa, it’s slightly hidden, but the vendors in the souk will point you in the right direction if you struggle to find it.

    The museum is a fascinating walk through the history of traditional carpet weaving, and some of them on display are generations old. They have been beautifully preserved, and each one is a testimony to Moroccos weaving heritage.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Every room of this tastefully restored 17th century riad invites you to look at each different region’s identity, from the Atlas Mountains to Rabat. You get to learn the meanings of Berber symbols and the specific colours each tribe used when weaving their carpets. Each carpet is unique and tells its own story.

    There are descriptions to help you appreciate the work that goes into creating each piece, including a detailed history about the Berber tribes who produced them. There’s also an interesting video showing you the process of creating the carpets and the history of the Berber women who spend months skillfully weaving each piece.

    On the first floor, you will find a workshop where you can have a go at making a small tapestry to take away with you. This is a two hour activity and ideal for families.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the treasures on display in the museum is the Rabat carpet, a symbol of royal elegance renowned for its rich decoration and finery.

    The museum also houses a collection of exquisite rare 20th-century carpets and modern contemporary pieces.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A visit to this delightful place was a nice break for me from the densely packed medina, and I would thoroughly recommend stopping by to have a look around it.

    There’s a small shop inside the museum selling rugs, cushion covers, and bags with   pieces of woven tapestry stitched into the centre. They are the perfect souvenir or gift to take home with you.

    After exploring the museum, you can relax on the pretty rooftop terrace, where you’ll find a nice cafe to have a light snack, homemade pastries, or a drink. The views across the medina from up here are incredible.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The museum is open from 10.00 am until 6.00pm and there’s a small entrance fee. It’s definitely worth every dirham to delve into the rich, cultural ancestry of the Amazigh and learn about their exceptional carpet weaving skills. Highly recommended.

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  • Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee.

    Taste traditional Saharan Coffee. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir. It is here that rich aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand, gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.

    To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand. It’s an ancient technique of brewing coffee that involves no electricity, simply hot Merzouga sand.

    The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina. It is soothing and velvety.

    This charming little spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting. There is a small rooftop terrace where you can sit and enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of sheer self-indulgence

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.

    It’s an experience watching the coffee being made from rich arabica and fragrant spices. In moments, it has heated up as if by magic. I savoured its unique taste whilst congratulating myself for finding this amazing discovery in the alleyways of the souks.

    Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition. The friendly proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not just a cup of coffee. It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy souks.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.

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  • Agafay Desert.

    Take a trip to a vast stony desert near Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.We were a small group of 8 people, and the journey took around 45 minutes.

    Agafay desert is a gravelly desert, composing of stones, rocks, and dunes where some vegetation is able to survive. As we approached our camp, camels sitting with their calfs looked fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists descending on their territory.

    As we disembarked, the sound of traditional gnawa music was playing in the distance. Our guide led us to tables that overlooked the vast expanse of desert. The panoramic view laid out before us was absolutely breathtaking.We could see for miles.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Our camp was pretty, with colourful cushions and rugs scattered about and rattan lamps hanging overhead. There was a large Berber tent where you could shelter from the breeze.We  could eat inside the tent or at tables in the open air.

    After settling in with a mint tea, some of the group took a short camel ride. This activity was optional.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Next came a three course meal, including vegetable soup served with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine, and fruit for dessert. The food was tasty, and the fresh air had given everyone a good appetite.

    We ate our dinner watching the golden sun go down. The skies were a fiery red. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I had ever seen.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A group of Morroccan gnawa musicians played around the tables, entertaining us as we finished off our meals. It was a lot of fun, and everyone was in high spirits.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    As soon as dinner was over, the merriment commenced. Dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires attempting Berber dancing. The atmosphere was lively and upbeat. Everyone was  clapping along and enjoying themselves. The stars came out in the clear sky as the campfires roared. By now, the temperature had started to drop, but we felt warm and cosy by the big open fires.

    When the lively display of Berber dancing was over, we all sat down to catch our breath. The camp was full of laughter, and everyone was having a good time.

    The grand finale was next. A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert. Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display taking place on a crater in front of us. By now, it was completely dark, and the effects were hypnotising. Watching the flames leap about against the backdrop of the vast dark desert was the highlight of the evening.

    The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close. It had been an exciting evening. We were escorted back to our vehicles and driven back to Marrakech.

    The excursion to Agafay desert was great value for money, and I would highly recommend it. I booked my trip through Get Your Guide, but your accommodation will also be able to organise the trip for you. There are a few different desert camps to choose from, and some have better facilities than others, so check the reviews before booking. Quad biking is also available if you prefer that instead of a camel ride

    It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay Luxury Camp. The camp offers a swimming pool and luxury accommodation with showers and bathtubs. Details can be found on Booking.com or by  looking online.

    Here are a few things that you may wish to consider if you plan to visit Agafay Desert.

    Take a warm sweater or blanket because evenings drop cooler.

    There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.

    Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert. If you’re interested in purchasing anything, take some cash with you in case they don’t accept card payments.

    The evening tour usually finishes between 9.30-10.00. There may be earlier tours during the winter months.

    Agafay desert was an entertaining way to spend an evening. Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life, I am eager to visit the Sahara.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • A Camel Ride In The Palmerai.

    Watch the sunset as you ride through palm groves. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Palmerai is a 54 square mile palm oasis on the northeast edge of Marrakech. It’s a 20-minute drive from the city centre and is well known for its lush landscape, high-end resorts, and popular activities.

    I needed to take a break from the manic pace of life in the medina, so I decided to visit the Palmerai for a camel ride at sunset. I booked the activity through Get Your Guide, and I was picked up at 4.00pm next to the Islane Hotel. I was part of a small group, and we were taken to our destination in a small air-conditioned van.

    After a short drive, the scenery began to change into open roads landscaped with thousands of palm trees. There were camels sitting at the sides of the road wearing colourfully decorated seats, waiting to take tourists for a ride around the scenic area.

    Once we had arrived at our destination, I was dressed in traditional blue Tuareg clothing and helped onto my camel by a friendly camel driver.

    Video taken by our guide Mohammed.

    Soon afterwards, we set off trekking through the palm groves as the sun began to set. The trek lasted for around 40 minutes across a stretch of gravelly ground.

    I have every respect for the Tuareg, who would spend months on the back of a camel in search of salt mines. However, they are not the most comfortable creatures, and 40 minutes was more than enough for me.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was late March when I went. Therefore, I imagine the sunset would be more spectacular during the summer months. It was still nice and peaceful, even if I didn’t get the wow factor I was hoping for.

    The camel drivers were entertaining, singing songs along the way and making little camels for us by plaiting the grass they picked along our route.

    Back at the vehicle, the camel drivers prepared a pot of mint tea for us all. After drinking it, we got back into the van and were soon heading back into Marrakech.

    My thoughts on the activity are mixed. It was good to get out of the busy city for a short while, and the scenery was nice. I enjoyed seeing another side of Marrakech, but I didn’t really get the experience I was hoping for. Perhaps it was the overcast sky spoiling my expectations of a dramatic sunset or how swiftly the event seemed to come to an end.

    In terms of value for money, I think that quad biking may have been the better option. On a positive note, our guide was lovely. He took videos and photographs for me and helped me into my headscarf.

    If I return to this part of Marrakech, I will try another activity. The Palmerai hosts balloon rides, which are available through Paradise Ballooning and Marrakech Balloon. There are several golf courses in the area also.

    For people who want to experience riding a camel, the Palmerai is ideal due to its close proximity to Marrakech.

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  • Le Jardin Marjorelle.

    Explore a botanical garden in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Named the second most beautiful garden in the world in 2022. The Majorelle Gardens is a one hectare botanical garden and artists landscape in Marrakech. It features a cubist villa designed by the French architect Paul Sinoir in the 1930s.

    Inside the Majorelle Gardens, there are over 300 plant species from all over the world. There are Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees all coexisting together amongst a labyrinth of pathways. The tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species have produced some of the most visually appealing gardens in marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The gardens were originally designed by the French orientalist artist Jacques Majorelle in 1923. He planted numerous exotic species, added pools and fountains, and painted the architecture in the splendid blue that has become the iconic Marjorelle blue.

    Sadly, he was  forced to abandon his home due to divorce, and it was left to perish and decay due to neglect.

    In 1980, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development. Together,they restored the house and brought the gardens back to their former glory. They added irrigation and doubled the amount of plants transforming the gardens into what they are today.

    For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent

    After his death in 2008, the gardens were donated to the Fondation Pierre Berge, a non-profit organisation based in Paris. Inside the garden, you will find a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it one of the most touristic attractions in Marrakech.

    I sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation and colourful bougainvillaea, but I was never alone for too long. Despite the beauty of the gardens, there are swarms of people flocking to spend time here, and it’s not peaceful for long.

    The art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place where tourists queue for the perfect instagram photos.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a cafe on site where visitors can get a bite to eat, and an interesting shop selling postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ annual Love sketches

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm. I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am. for the best experience, plus Booking online is essential to guarantee entry.

    The ticket also permits entry into the YSL museum, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a visit if you are interested in the history of Amazigh culture. However, photography is not allowed inside these museums.

    Opening times for the museum are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The price of a ticket varies depending on where you purchase them from, but you can expect to pay somewhere in the region of €24 to visit everything.

    There are plenty of good restaurants outside the gardens, and I highly recommend My Kawa. There are also some great shops selling souvenirs and clothes.

    Le Jardin Marjorelle was beautiful. The gardens are lush, and their are several places to sit and take in the splendid surroundings. However, the huge number of tourists detract from the serenity and peace that such a spectacular setting really deserves.

    Le Jardin Marjorelle is located to the north west of Marrakech medina. It can be reached by taxi from Jamaa El Fna, or it’s a steady 30-minute walk.

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  • Ouzoud Waterfall.

    A day trip to North Africa’s second largest waterfall.  

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ouzoud Falls is the collective name for several waterfalls in the province of Azilal.

    The waterfall is the second largest in Africa, and it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.

    I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way. The mini bus had air conditioning and comfortable seating.

    We drove for approximately one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break. There was a small women’s cooperative selling Argan oil for people who were interested.

    Soon, we were on our way again, and the views of the Atlas Mountains were simply breathtaking. It was a really scenic drive, helping the time pass quickly.

    When we arrived at Ouzoud, we were introduced to our guide and immediately set off walking. We rambled through the olive groves, and the cheeky Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

    The waterfall is visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points. It plunges 110 metres into the canyon below, and the red sandstone cliffs are a picturesque contrast against the lush green vegetation.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The hike around the waterfall is moderately strenuous, and their are occasional places to purchase fruit juice and take a rest. It was hot,and I was grateful for the chance to stop and recuperate for a while.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    A boat ride is part of the itinerary if you book a tour. The boats are vibrantly decorated and take to the water beneath the falls for a really close-up shot. It was an amazing experience. The feeling of the cool water spraying my face was a welcome relief from the heat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Once the boat drops you off on the opposite side, it’s quite a steep climb up to get to the restaurants. I was lucky enough to get a table that overlooked the waterfall, and the view was incredible.

    I ate a three course meal that included a small salad with bread and olives, followed by a tagine and fruit for dessert. It was pleasant looking down on the boats and seeing people having fun in the water whilst eating my lunch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The meal cost around 150 dirhams. It was nothing spectacular, just a simple lunch in the most gorgeous of settings, but the portion was adequate.

    After lunch, I walked further up a steep incline,where a lot more monkeys were gathered waiting for tourists to feed them. I fed a few of them with some food given to me by our guide.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The final part of the walk took me past a few souvenir stalls and a shop selling drinks and ice cream. Eventually, I made it back to the car park where the journey began.

    The group was reunited with the driver, and then it was time to set off back to Marrakech. We stopped again for a toilet break midway through the journey, and it was early evening when I arrived back at the main square.

    In my opinion, the trip to Ouzoud was definitely worth the six hours of travelling.

    The highlight for me was sitting above the waterfall  eating my lunch and looking at the spectacular view. The monkeys were also very amusing.

    There is a fair amount of walking in the heat, and some of it is steep, but I was able to take my time, and the guide was really patient and kind. The walk was worth every moment to see the waterfall from all its vantage points.

    Some people in the group who were struggling went up on Donkeys, so that’s an option if you have limited mobility.

    I booked my trip with Get Your Guide and found it good value for money for such a great day out. It included the journey in an air-conditioned vehicle, the tour, and the boat ride. The lunch was separate. Your accommodation can also organise a trip to Ouzoud for you.

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  • Cafe Clock.

    A cross-cultural cafe chain in the Kasbah.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Clock is a cultural hub based in Fes, Marrakech, and Chefchouen. It was founded by Mike Richardson when he visited Fes in 2006 and fell in love with the ancient city. It was named after the centuries old water clock situated on the facing wall of the Bou Inania Madrasa.

    Cafe Clock is now a buzzing hub of culture where you can sample its famous camel burgers. This lively space in the Kasbah district was once an old school house. It has since been converted and is renowned for its storytelling and live music events.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Clock is popular with young Moroccans learning the ancient traditional art of storytelling and travellers who are curious. There is nice energy here, and it’s a great place to come and chill.

    At Cafe Clock, you can take  cookery classes. You will be taken to the local markets to buy fresh ingredients before learning how to make a traditional Morroccan dish.

    The interior of Cafe Clock has been decorated by local artists who have added their own unique touch.Colourful vintage berber cushions and thrifted whimsical finds are displayed around a large open fire place. There is a homely atmosphere at Cafe Clock.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I visited during December, and it was cold outside. Sitting next to the roaring fire, listening to a live acoustic guitar made me feel warm and cosy.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is good and offers an interesting choice for vegetarians and vegans.I particularly recommend the falafel Super Bowl and vegetable pastilla.

    If you’re travelling around Morocco, Cafe Clock is also extending its empire into other areas like Chefchouen.

    Opening times for Cafe Clock are 9.00 am until 11.00pm daily. The address is 224 Derb Chtouka, Marrakech.

    Cafe Clock is a popular cultural space dedicated to keeping the ancient culture of Marrakech alive. Whether it’s traditional gnawa musicians or the best raconteurs in Marrakech, you can expect an entertaining experience here.

    Cafe Clock is also open for breakfast, with a good variety of choices on the menu.

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  • Pikala Cafe.

    A cafe for cycling enthusiasts 

    Pikala Cafe has a quirky, boho vibe. Amongst others, it attracts coworkers and health-conscious people. If you are brave, you can also hire bicycles here for the day to cycle around Marrakech.

    Pikala Cafe supports local youth by offering bicycle education and tours around the city. Profits support the Pikala Foundation, which fund bicycle projects and provide young locals with education and job opportunities.

    It’s a socially conscious cafe and cultural space serving vegetarian and vegan options. The breakfasts here are delicious, and they also do an assortment of snacks and healthy smoothies.

    The place itself is very pretty, with plenty of nooks to sit and relax in, including a nice rooftop. Being an open-air cafe, it is perfect when the heat becomes stifling in Marrakech. There are areas in the shade.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had the detox smoothie, and it was invigorating. I also opted for a bowl of lentil soup, which was really tasty. The bread was so fresh.

    On a separate occasion, I tried the freshly squeezed lemonade. It was zesty and tangy, giving me the boost I needed for tackling the busy souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Pikola Cafe attracts a lot of fitness enthusiasts and is a really cool place to hang out. The food is the highlight. Ingredients are always fresh. Therefore, the quality of the food and drink is of a high standard. Popular dishes  include baghrir pancakes and pitta bowls.

    If you’re looking for a bite to eat and a cool place to relax, Pikala Cafe is definitely worth checking out. They also have free WiFi.

    Pikala Cafe opens from 9.00 am. daily and closes at 5.00pm. On Thursdays, Fridays,and Saturdays, it closes at 10.00pm. The address is 139 Arset, Aouzal Road, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • Les Bains Kenaria.

    A Hammam with a Rooftop Cafe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Les Bains Kenaria has been revived to become a sanctuary in the medina. It’s over 400 years old and has been beautifully preserved and restored. The hammam still uses the ancient Moroccan tradition of heating using the wood fired method.

    Services include newly added thermal rooms, warm baths, cold baths, a jacuzzi style pool, and a massage.

    Les Bains Kenaria is also a rooftop cafe, and this is where my experience here began. I was lured in by the lush tropical plants that spoke to me from the intricately crafted doorway.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I made my way upstairs onto the pretty rooftop and was seated on a colourful couch. The staff were really friendly and courteous, and helped me to choose a vegetarian option from the menu.

    I had one of the most delicious tagines I’ve had in Marrakech.The fresh vegetables included fava beans and olives and tasted absolutely sumptuous. I chose a beet smoothie for the first time. It was quite different from anything I’d had before, and I couldn’t decide if I liked it or not.

    I watched the sun setting as I ate. I could hear the lively sounds of the souk below. It was a lovely atmosphere, and I could see everyday life taking place on the adjacent rooftops.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The setting was peaceful, despite it being in the busy medina. There were tourists shopping in the street below. I was still able to enjoy my meal feeling relaxed and stressfree. I took my time and didn’t feel rushed.

    Dining on the rooftop terrace of Les Bains Kenaria was a lovely experience. The food is traditional Morroccan cuisine, and prices are very competitive. There is plenty of choice for lunch and dinner on the menu, and breakfast is also available. The lush plants and comfortable surroundings made it extra special. It was a contrast from the manic rhythm of the street below. This is definitely a place I will visit regularly.

    The opening hours are 9.00 am until 8.00pm daily. The address is Bain Maure, N 132,Marrakech 40040, Morocco.

    Next time, I may even try the Hammam.

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