The Mouassine Museum of Music is in the Saadian quarter of the medina. It is housed in a recently restored 16th – 17th century house in the once aristocratic Mouassine area of Marrakech. The upper floor has a small guest room called a douiria. This is a prime example of fine Arab Andalusian architecture. The main room of the douiria is beautifully decorated, with carved stucco featuring geometric patterns and Kufic letter motifs as well as sculpted and painted wooden ceilings.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
There are several rooms showcasing the diversity of musical traditions in Morocco. Amazigh music, Jewish tradition, daqqa marrakchia, Gnawa music, and Arab-Andalusian music. The Music Museum contains a wide range of instruments, photographs, and videos. It is a fascinating walk through the musical heritage of Africa and home to some fascinating artefacts.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
After visiting the museum, make your way upstairs to the pretty rooftop terrace where there is a restaurant called the Belvedere Terrace. There are great views of the medina and Atlas Mountains from up there.
The museum also hosts popular events. Three times a week, there are musical evenings. Mondays, there is an Andalusian music concert. Wednesdays is a concert dedicated to Berber music, and Fridays is traditional gnawa music. These concerts commence between 6 and 7.00pm.The concerts are followed by a traditional tea ceremony. I recommend booking in advance to guarantee a place. They are very popular and fill up quickly.
The Mouassine Museum of Music is a deep delve into the history and culture of Marrakech. It’s a colourful museum with fascinating exhibits. The price of entry is 80 dirhams and permits entry into the museum of photography also.
The address is 4,5 Derb El Hammam Marrakech Morocco. It is situated near the southeastern corner of the Mouassine Mosque and the Mouassine fountain. The area is quite dense, so look for signs or use Google maps to help you locate it.
Marrakech is the perfect starting point for visiting other Moroccan destinations. One of the popular day trips from Marrakech is the beautiful city of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. The journey takes approximately 3 hours with a 20-minute break for refreshments midway through.
Essaouira is a delightful city, steeped in history. It is full of eclectic, quirky little shops, and the atmosphere is very bohemian. There are street musicians, local artists, and artisans plying their trade all around the picturesque old medina.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The beach is huge and a great place for a spot of sunbathing if the wind allows. You will most likely notice kite surfers because Essaouira is popular with the surfing community. The wind can be pretty wild, so it isn’t known as a beach destination, but on calm days, the beach attracts lots of local families and gets quite busy.
The temperature in Essaouira is cooler than it is in Marrakech. However, even on the windiest of days, you can not underestimate the power of the Moroccan sun. In the old medina, it can still feel very warm. Be mindful of this and apply sunscreen to stay safe.
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The fort is exciting and offers incredible views over the Atlantic Ocean. Cannons look out across the dramatic blue sea, and tourists gather to take photos. In the distance, you can see the island of Mogador, once home to a notorious prison known as the Alcatraz of Morocco. The fort was also one of the locations where Game Of Thrones was filmed.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The port is one of the main attractions of Essaouira. The beautiful iconic blue fishing boats featured on every postcard of Essaouira are a sight to behold. Freshly caught fish are on display, including everything from sardines to baby sharks. The tourists queue to sample sea urchins and fresh oysters. It is possible to buy fish at the port and take it to a nearby cafe to be barbecued. There is also a fish market in the old medina that will barbecue fish for you. I have heard that prices here are better than the cafes next to the port.
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Lovely little cafes adorn the streets of the old medina, perfect for a spot of people watching. Pumpkin Cafe is very popular with its pink hues and delicious pastries. Three Little Birds and Soul Cafe are vibey and serve great coffee.
There are plenty of great restaurants for lunch, and prices are more reasonable than Marrakech or Agadir. I recommend Mandala Society and The Loft, which has interesting decor and excellent food. Love Caravan is very exotic, and Salut Maroc does a very creative salad. It’s one of the best places to watch the sunset. Many of the restaurants play live music, and gnawa musicians can be heard all around the walls of the medina. After all, Essaouira is the spiritual capital and cultural home to gnawa music.
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Moulay Hassan Square is a gathering place for the locals to sit and drink mint tea and coffee. It is a vibrant area and houses one of the main stages during the annual Gnawa Festival in June. Sitting in the sun, listening to the many street entertainers is a nice way to relax and experience the cities culture.
Cats wander around freely as if they have the right of way, and you can expect to see hundreds of them wherever you go in Essaouira. The locals look after them well, and it’s not uncommon to see cats sitting on the laps of the shop owners. Food, water, and shelter are strategically placed around the medina.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Essaouira is a fascinating place. Ideally, you would need at least a few days to appreciate it in its full entirety. There is plenty to do, and you need a couple of days to enjoy some of the attractions Essaouira has to offer.
The Jimi Hendrix cafe in Diabat is worth a visit for fans. Sidi Kouki 25 km away is a very chilled surfing spot with a long white beach. It’s a 30-minute ride by grand or private taxi, longer if you decide to take the bus.
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There is the opportunity to ride an Arabian horse across the beach. The horses are very well looked after, and the stables are spotlessly clean. This can be booked in advance through Get Your Guide or by visiting the stables in Diabat independentently, which I did. After visiting the Jimi Hendrix cafe, I simply wandered down to the stables and got to ride across the beach on my own with my guide. It was a memorable experience on a gentle horse called Andaluse, perfect for beginners.
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When visiting Essaouira, knowing a little bit of French or Darija helps because English is considered a foreign language, and you will hear much more spoken French than in Marrakech. However, the locals in Essaouira are friendly and welcoming and will go out of their way to help you.
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The pace of life in Essaouira is much slower than Marrakech despite the growing influx of tourism and the popularity of this wonderful destination. Shops open slightly later and close earlier. The feeling is very laid-back.
Essaouira is ideal for solo travellers and families with children alike. The long promenade is kept beautifully clean and comes to life at dusk, lined with street vendors selling corn, ice cream, and sugar cane juice. Locals play football on the beach, and families and friends sit together watching the sunset.
Incidentally, Essaouira has one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever witnessed. The best places to watch it are from the ramparts or Salut Maroc and Taros. Both of these places serve alcoholic beverages.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Whilst it’s true that Essaouira is a very windy city, it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment of visiting, even between the months of June and August when the climate is perfect for surfing. The wind picks up during these months. However, if you carry a light jacket or sweater, you will be comfortable near the beach and ramparts where the wind is felt the most.
Essaouira is a very pretty city. The white buildings, with their blue shutters influenced by the Portuguese, are a complete contrast from the red city of Marrakech. Some visitors have claimed that it feels more like being in a European city than Morocco. The Amazigh culture is still very present in Essaouira despite its whitewashed buildings and laid-back charm.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I would recommend a visit to Essaouira as part of your itinerary when you’re visiting Marrakech. You can get a good feel of the city in a day. It may encourage you to return in order to spend a few more days exploring everything this great destination has to offer.
If you are travelling to Essaouira by yourself, I recommend taking the CTM or Supratours coach adjacent to the train station in Marrakech. Booking online guarantees you a seat, and there is a small charge of around 5 dirhams for your luggage. Backpacks can be taken on board free of charge. The coaches have air conditioning, and mine had reclining seats. The journey was very comfortable.
If you book as part of a group, including a guide, you may stop off and visit an argan cooperative during the journey. You may also stop to photograph the goats sitting in the argan trees. The journey may take slightly longer if you factor this in. On average, you get to spend approximately 4 hours sightseeing. Essaouira is a relatively small city, so you will have plenty of time to shop, have lunch, walk along the beach, and visit the port.
Just a gentle reminder, keep a few dirhams handy in case you need to use the bathroom during the rest stop. There is often an attendant present who will expect around 2 dirhams for the privilege of toilet tissue and the maintenance of the bathroom. It’s also a good idea to carry hand sanitiser.
Essaouira is sunny all year round, so it can be an enjoyable experience at any time of year. However, during June, when the annual Gnawa Festival takes place, it can be incredibly busy. At least 500,000 visitors descend on the city, which puts a strain on its infrastructure. The festival lasts 3 days. If you’re put off by huge crowds, I would choose a different time to visit. However, the energy around the city is electric during the festival, and it’s an explosion of sound and colour. Most visitors choose Essaouira for its contrast to the heady, over stimulation of Marrakech, so take that into consideration before planning a visit.
Whichever time you choose to come, your heart will be captured by Essaouira.
Cafe Clock is a cultural hub based in Fes, Marrakech, and Chefchouen. It was founded by Mike Richardson when he visited Fes in 2006 and fell in love with the ancient city. It was named after the centuries old water clock situated on the facing wall of the Bou Inania Madrasa.
Cafe Clock is now a buzzing hub of culture where you can sample its famous camel burgers. This lively space in the Kasbah district was once an old school house. It has since been converted and is renowned for its storytelling and live music events.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Cafe Clock is popular with young Moroccans learning the ancient traditional art of storytelling and travellers who are curious. There is nice energy here, and it’s a great place to come and chill.
At Cafe Clock, you can take cookery classes. You will be taken to the local markets to buy fresh ingredients before learning how to make a traditional Morroccan dish.
The interior of Cafe Clock has been decorated by local artists who have added their own unique touch.Colourful vintage berber cushions and thrifted whimsical finds are displayed around a large open fire place. There is a homely atmosphere at Cafe Clock.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I visited during December, and it was cold outside. Sitting next to the roaring fire, listening to a live acoustic guitar made me feel warm and cosy.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The menu is good and offers an interesting choice for vegetarians and vegans.I particularly recommend the falafel Super Bowl and vegetable pastilla.
If you’re travelling around Morocco, Cafe Clock is also extending its empire into other areas like Chefchouen.
Opening times for Cafe Clock are 9.00 am until 11.00pm daily. The address is 224 Derb Chtouka, Marrakech.
Cafe Clock is a popular cultural space dedicated to keeping the ancient culture of Marrakech alive. Whether it’s traditional gnawa musicians or the best raconteurs in Marrakech, you can expect an entertaining experience here.
Cafe Clock is also open for breakfast, with a good variety of choices on the menu.
The Sound Of The Souks 