In Marrakech, you will often hear the word Berber. Amazigh, also known as Berbers, is an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.They have lived across a vast region that encompasses modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.
The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system, an ancient water management technique involving a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands. This enabled farming and agriculture to thrive in a harsh environment. The Berbers existed as a totally self-sufficient community thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.
Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women to become slaves, throwing their society into complete chaos. The Berbers became known for their resistance, with some tribes turning to piracy as a way to survive and out of defiance against foreign powers. Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding ships and coastal towns, which led to conflicts during the Barbary Wars.
Despite all these challenges, the Berber culture has continued to endure, holding on to its distinct language, culture, and identity through sheer resilience.
The history of Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic. Moroccan people are proud of their heritage and its rich culture, but they had to fight for the right to have it recognised. The name Berber comes from the roman word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive to use it to describe the indigenous people of North Africa. The name Amazigh, which means ‘free people’, is now used instead. Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco alongside Agadir.
It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh. A stay in a Berber home is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco. In the Atlas mountains, life continues in very much the same way as it always has. Visitors to villages like Imlil get the opportunity to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and witness their day-to-day life, which isn’t an easy one. This fascinating experience can be booked online or through your accommodation.
There is beautiful jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh for sale in the medina. The art of carpet weaving by Amazigh women is demonstrated, and tourists get to appreciate the work that goes into producing these beautiful high-quality masterpieces
Images by Freebird Tracey.
To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum. Both places will give you a deeper insight into the history and customs of Amazigh culture.
Safety tips for women travelling alone to Marrakech.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech is safe for women who travel alone.
The overall crime rate is low, and most female travellers have a wonderful experience. However, there are certain things to take into consideration to help you feel confident and comfortable during your visit.
Women in Marrakech dress modestly. How you want to be treated will depend on how you present yourself. Although Marrakech is a Muslim city, it is quite liberal and used to tourists, but showing too much flesh would be considered inappropriate.Whilst you’re not expecting to adopt the hijab, you will certainly be regarded favourably if you dress slightly more conservatively especially in religious places sacred to the Islamic faith.
Wear dresses below the knees. Silk, rayon, or cotton dresses are perfect and keep you cool at the same time. Palazzo trousers are also very comfortable and elegant. I like to wear turbans, I love the fact that my hair is tucked away, keeping me cool and looking modest at the same time. Many tourists continue to wear the same style of clothing that they would back at home, so it’s really a matter of choice. I would certainly encourage dressing appropriately if you’re visiting religious sites, just as a matter of respect. You’ll notice how much a small gesture like this makes the locals happy.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The people in Marrakesh are friendly and hospitable. However, there may be times when you will be asked if you need help to find your riad or the main square. Simply decline the offer politely and go about your business.
When shopping in the medina, stand your ground when negotiating for something. Show the vendors that you are confident and not be afraid to walk away if you’re not happy with the price. They may try to drive a harder bargain if they see a woman unaccompanied and you don’t have to put up with this. Shop around or visit a fixed price store or Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex, and you won’t have to bargain.
Some men will cat call you or make comments, which may feel slightly intrusive. Ignore them and move away. They are usually harmless, but if anyone trys to follow you, find the nearest shop vendor or closest restaurant to sit in. If they still persist, threaten to find a police officer. It’s rare that this happens, and there are police everywhere around Marrakech, making sure that tourists are not hassled in any way.
Knowing a few words in Arabic or French is always useful. Non merci or La Shukran means no thank you and will automatically bring a smile to the locals’ faces. It also comes in useful for shaking off food sellers and henna ladies in the main square.
I have never felt uncomfortable as a solo female traveller in Marrakech. There are plenty of us about wandering through the souks and enjoying the tourist hot spots.
Consider joining a guided tour of the medina if you’re feeling anxious about exploring by yourself, especially if it’s your first time. There are evening tours, street food tours, and plenty of registered guides available for visiting the local attractions.
Marrakech is a great place for a solo female traveller to visit. In fact, I consider it much safer than many other countries I have been to. The locals can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city, and they’re some of the most hospitable people I have ever met. Just educate yourself a little about the cultural norms and differences in Morocco and respect the local customs and traditions, and you should be perfectly safe.
Marrakech is very touristy, so there are always crowds of people wherever you go.Just be extra vigilant in busy, congested areas with your belongings, the same way you would be anywhere else in the world.
If you want to feel less isolated as a solo female traveller, there are a few excellent hostels in Marrakech that attract a lot of solo travellers. They are great places to stay and they can organise tours where you will meet other like-minded people.
Lastly, relax and trust that the people of Marrakech are helpful and kind. You will definitely have an exciting time.
The famous red city is a culinary delight for foodies. The streets are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit. There are herbs and spices galore in colourful barrels everywhere you look. The fragrance of street food fills the air, tempting your tastebuds. Restaurants with decadent surroundings call out to you to sample their cuisine.
But where do you start and what should you order?
Like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of a country you’re visiting. I enjoy sampling the signature dishes of places I visit and eating the food that the locals do. It’s the best way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.
Moroccan people are known for their hospitality and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family. If you get the chance to go do it. It’s a way to understand the people and their culture. Plus, there’s nothing better than traditional food homecooked by a local family.
So,with an overwhelming choice of food to choose from, you may need a little help deciding what to try. I’ve put together a few ideas for you to choose from.
The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.Tagine is the name of the clay pot that the dish is cooked in. It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre. Chicken or lamb is the most popular meat used. Dates, olives, preserved lemon, and spices such as the Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout are added to give the tagine flavour. Everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine, and they differ in each restaurant. However, they all use the same principle of layering the vegetables into a pyramid around the meat.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables. It is eaten religiously on Fridays and a staple dish in Morocco and other North African countries. Couscous is finely textured and often served with harissa sauce to make the consistency less dry.
In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails. Tourists are encouraged by street food vendors to try a dish of snails, and those who do have said that they quite enjoyed the experience. Apparently, the broth that they’re cooked in tastes of aniseed, and although an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible. Many tourists actually liked them.
Video by Freebird Tracey. Image by Freebird Tracey.
Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us. It’s a regular sight on display in the main square during the evening. Locals sit at stalls alongside tourists next to the charcoaled heads eating spit roasted mutton and sausages. The open-air restaurants are very popular, and the aroma of food can be smelt all around the main square.
In Marrakech, each meal is served with traditional bread. It is freshly baked every morning in communal ovens called Ferrans. Khobz is a traditional round crusty flatbread and used in place of cutlery to scoop up the food.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Tangia is also a popular dish. It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam. Traditionally, the tangia is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day. It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread. The meat is incredibly tender and simply falls off the bone. There is a row of street vendors dedicated to selling tangias in the medina. This is very popular with locals and tourists alike. The area gets very busy with people queueing for a vessel of succulent lamb or beef.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
There are plenty of street food vendors tucked away in the souks. They sell really good quality food and it’s cheap. Ideal for travellers on a tighter budget. Taking a street food tour is a great way to try all the best places serving traditional local food. There are several tours available during the daytime or evening. Tourists get the chance to sample authentic Moroccan cuisine with a registered guide. Delicacies like the spleen sandwich and Tripe are something that you may be introduced to during a street food tour. Remember to go with an empty stomach because there’s so much food to get through.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech also caters to people who are vegetarians and vegans. There is a good choice of food, including salad,vegetable tagine, pastilla, and couscous. Most dishes can be adapted for people who don’t eat meat. There are a few excellent vegetarian restaurants in the medina, and more are opening as tourism grows.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Pigeon is also eaten in Marrakech and traditionally used for the filling in Pastilla. There are camel burgers available at The Clock restaurant in the kasbah if you want to try something different.
Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food. I recommend Pepe Nero or Limoni Italian Restaurant.
Olives are served with most beverages as a complimentary side dish in Marrakech. They are either lightly spiced or plain. They are really fresh when you buy them straight off the vendors in the souks. Don’t hesitate to try some. They are delicious.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are really good. Baclava is a traditional sweet and popular with the tourists. Moroccans have a sweet tooth as you will gather from the breakfasts high in carbohydrates and cakes. The choice of deserts on the menu in restaurants is really creative. There’s no point watching your waistline in Marrakech.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Dates are a hugely popular snack in Marrakech, and medjool dates known as ‘The King of Dates’ are widely available around the medina. Make sure to try some. You won’t be disappointed with the soft caramaly taste.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Fresh fruit is sold everywhere in Marrakesh. It’s used in tantalising sweet dishes and refreshing smoothies that make your mouth water. Sugarcane and pomegranate juice is a favourite of mine and only costs a few dirhams.
Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food. With so much to choose from, you would need months to eat your way through it all. Not only is there a great variety, but it’s beautifully presented too. Imagine sitting in a tranquil setting next to exotic plants, with the sound of birds and trickling fountains. Or on a rooftop terrace at dusk watching the sunset as you tuck into a plate of delicious food. Those are memorable experiences of eating in Marrakesh.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Be open to getting out of your comfort zone and give some of the traditional Moroccan dishes a go. You may be pleasantly surprised. If you’re not adventurous, many restaurants serve European, Mediterranean cuisine. The choice is endless.
A testimony to the opulence of the Saadian dynasty.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
One of the most popular tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.
The Saadian tombs have become a historical landmark dating back as far as the late sixteenth century. Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour and his family.
The mixture of Spanish and Moorish architecture is really impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and Italian Carrara marble.The main mausoleum is quite remarkable, with beautifully decorated ceilings and columns and there are usually very long queues waiting to see it. The Saadian tombs are very decadent with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles, showcasing the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.
I recommend arriving early around opening time to avoid waiting too long to see the main mausoleum. Tourists can wait for over an hour in the heat, so make sure you have a bottle of water handy just in case.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The Saadian Tombs were hidden for centuries. They were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.
Housing over 100 tombs with beautiful zellige tiles and marble columns, this royal necropolis was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour to honour his ancestors. The chamber of 12 columns is where the tombs of Ahmed al- Mansour and his successors are laid to rest. In the gardens lie the tombs of soldiers and servants. There is a smaller tranquil chamber, which is called the Chamber of Three Niches.
The Saadian Tombs are an example of Moroccos’ rich history and culture. They are in close proximity to El Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both are worth a visit if your you’re interested in Islamic art and architecture.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The Saadian Tombs are in the Kasbah next to the mosque, and the opening times are 9.00 am until 5.00pm daily. The price of entry at the time of writing is 100 dirhams.
The ruins of an extravagant palace from the Saadian dynasty.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
El Badi Palace was built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour of the Saadian dynasty. The palace was built to showcase the considerable wealth of the Saadian dynasty and was a prime example of Islamic architecture and exquisite craftsmanship.
Using both Moroccan and European influences, the palace was beautifully decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, marble arches, and ornate carvings. There were 300 rooms decorated in gold, turquoise, and crystal. It was also home to the sultans harem, which included over 500 women.
When Meknes became the new capital city, the palace was completely stripped of all its materials and transported there to create a new palace. After the death of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour in 1603, the palace fell into neglect. Now, only the ruins remain.
El Badi is worth a visit if you want to learn about the history of Marrakech and the elite who ruled centuries ago.There is an interesting exhibition area containing the Almoravid Minbar, which is the finely decorated pulpit that once stood inside the Koutoubia Mosque. The area also hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions. There are underground chambers that contain information and photographs about the history of the palace.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Unfortunately, the palace was badly damaged during the earthquake in 2023, and renovations have taken place to repair the cracks in the walls. It’s still a tranquil place to visit, and the huge courtyard feels very calm and peaceful. The storks nesting on top of the towers give it a mystical atmosphere.
El Badi Palace is situated in the Kasbah district, which is to the south of the city. It is close to the Saadian tombs, an impressive burial site, and another place to visit to get an understanding of the history of Marrakech.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Visiting this once opulent palace, you get a sense of the wealth and grandeur of the Saadian dynasty. There’s a feeling of tranquillity within its walls, and you appreciate its historical significance.
El Badi Palace is open every day from 9.00am to 5.00pm and costs 100 dirhams to enter.
Ben Youssef Madrasa was once the largest and most important Islamic college in Morocco.
It was commissioned by Saadian Sultan, Abdellah al- Ghaleb Assaadi in 1564-65 and named after the adjacent Ben Youseff mosque.
It’s a fascinating place to visit with invaluable historical and cultural significance. The spectacular architecture inside the Madrasa is simply breathtaking and a testimony to the beauty of Islamic art and craftsmanship.
Students who studied at the Madrasa would learn many subjects, including religious science, mathematics, philosophy, and medicine.The Madrasa attracted the best scholars and thinkers from the Arab Muslim world.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Ben Youseff Madrasa has been beautifully restored. Zellige tiles decorated with floral, geometric motifs and Arabic scripts adorn the walls. Carved cedarwood doors, ceilings, and intricately crafted pillars showcase the quality of the craftsmanship. It’s a prime example of the skill used to create traditional Islamic architecture.
There are approximately 130 dormitories and in it’s heyday as a koranic school, the Madrasa housed around 900 students.The small rooms were just big enough for them to roll out their mats to sleep on.The main focus for each student was study and prayer.
The rooms overlook the large courtyard, and tourists cram inside to have their photos taken standing in the window frames.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Ben Youseff Madrasa is one of the most touristic sightseeing spots in Marrakech. Due to its popularity, you have to get there early to appreciate the serene environment that the students would have lived in. If you arrive later in the day, expect huge crowds to jostle with each other for perfect photo opportunities.
I visited at opening time, and although there was a small queue of people waiting to enter, it wasn’t too packed with tourists.
Ben Youseff Madrasa is next to Marrakech Museum. The address is Rue Assoual, Marrakech 40000.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Opening times are 9.00 am until 7.00pm, except on Tuesdays when they close at 4.30 pm. The entrance fee is 70 dirhams.
There are guided tours available to book online. Some include skipping the line entry. I didn’t bother booking a tour. There is information inside the Madrasa, which gave me an idea of what it would have been like to study there. For a more detailed history, a reputable, knowledgeable guide would be helpful.
Take a trip to a vast stony desert near Marrakech.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.We were a small group of 8 people, and the journey took around 45 minutes.
Agafay desert is a gravelly desert, composing of stones, rocks, and dunes where some vegetation is able to survive. As we approached our camp, camels sitting with their calfs looked fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists descending on their territory.
As we disembarked, the sound of traditional gnawa music was playing in the distance. Our guide led us to tables that overlooked the vast expanse of desert. The panoramic view laid out before us was absolutely breathtaking.We could see for miles.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Our camp was pretty, with colourful cushions and rugs scattered about and rattan lamps hanging overhead. There was a large Berber tent where you could shelter from the breeze.We could eat inside the tent or at tables in the open air.
After settling in with a mint tea, some of the group took a short camel ride. This activity was optional.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Next came a three course meal, including vegetable soup served with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine, and fruit for dessert. The food was tasty, and the fresh air had given everyone a good appetite.
We ate our dinner watching the golden sun go down. The skies were a fiery red. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I had ever seen.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
A group of Morroccan gnawa musicians played around the tables, entertaining us as we finished off our meals. It was a lot of fun, and everyone was in high spirits.
Video by Freebird Tracey.
As soon as dinner was over, the merriment commenced. Dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires attempting Berber dancing. The atmosphere was lively and upbeat. Everyone was clapping along and enjoying themselves. The stars came out in the clear sky as the campfires roared. By now, the temperature had started to drop, but we felt warm and cosy by the big open fires.
When the lively display of Berber dancing was over, we all sat down to catch our breath. The camp was full of laughter, and everyone was having a good time.
The grand finale was next. A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert. Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display taking place on a crater in front of us. By now, it was completely dark, and the effects were hypnotising. Watching the flames leap about against the backdrop of the vast dark desert was the highlight of the evening.
The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close. It had been an exciting evening. We were escorted back to our vehicles and driven back to Marrakech.
The excursion to Agafay desert was great value for money, and I would highly recommend it. I booked my trip through Get Your Guide, but your accommodation will also be able to organise the trip for you. There are a few different desert camps to choose from, and some have better facilities than others, so check the reviews before booking. Quad biking is also available if you prefer that instead of a camel ride
It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay Luxury Camp. The camp offers a swimming pool and luxury accommodation with showers and bathtubs. Details can be found on Booking.com or by looking online.
Here are a few things that you may wish to consider if you plan to visit Agafay Desert.
Take a warm sweater or blanket because evenings drop cooler.
There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.
Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert. If you’re interested in purchasing anything, take some cash with you in case they don’t accept card payments.
The evening tour usually finishes between 9.30-10.00. There may be earlier tours during the winter months.
Agafay desert was an entertaining way to spend an evening. Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life, I am eager to visit the Sahara.
Named the second most beautiful garden in the world in 2022. The Majorelle Gardens is a one hectare botanical garden and artists landscape in Marrakech. It features a cubist villa designed by the French architect Paul Sinoir in the 1930s.
Inside the Majorelle Gardens, there are over 300 plant species from all over the world. There are Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees all coexisting together amongst a labyrinth of pathways. The tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species have produced some of the most visually appealing gardens in marrakech.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The gardens were originally designed by the French orientalist artist Jacques Majorelle in 1923. He planted numerous exotic species, added pools and fountains, and painted the architecture in the splendid blue that has become the iconic Marjorelle blue.
Sadly, he was forced to abandon his home due to divorce, and it was left to perish and decay due to neglect.
In 1980, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development. Together,they restored the house and brought the gardens back to their former glory. They added irrigation and doubled the amount of plants transforming the gardens into what they are today.
For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent
After his death in 2008, the gardens were donated to the Fondation Pierre Berge, a non-profit organisation based in Paris. Inside the garden, you will find a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it one of the most touristic attractions in Marrakech.
I sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation and colourful bougainvillaea, but I was never alone for too long. Despite the beauty of the gardens, there are swarms of people flocking to spend time here, and it’s not peaceful for long.
The art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place where tourists queue for the perfect instagram photos.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There is a cafe on site where visitors can get a bite to eat, and an interesting shop selling postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ annual Love sketches
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm. I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am. for the best experience, plus Booking online is essential to guarantee entry.
The ticket also permits entry into the YSL museum, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a visit if you are interested in the history of Amazigh culture. However, photography is not allowed inside these museums.
Opening times for the museum are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The price of a ticket varies depending on where you purchase them from, but you can expect to pay somewhere in the region of €24 to visit everything.
There are plenty of good restaurants outside the gardens, and I highly recommend My Kawa. There are also some great shops selling souvenirs and clothes.
Le Jardin Marjorelle was beautiful. The gardens are lush, and their are several places to sit and take in the splendid surroundings. However, the huge number of tourists detract from the serenity and peace that such a spectacular setting really deserves.
Le Jardin Marjorelle is located to the north west of Marrakech medina. It can be reached by taxi from Jamaa El Fna, or it’s a steady 30-minute walk.
Marrakech is my happy place. It’s a city of contrasts. From the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Gueliz and Hivernage. Visitors may find Marrakech to be an assault on the senses. The sights, sounds, and smells of Jamaa El Fna can be overly stimulating for the most seasoned of travellers. However, it’s part of the charm of the city, and it’s just as exciting as it is chaotic.
Although I love visiting Marrakech, there are things that frustrate me. I have to give a realistic, balanced opinion. Like anywhere else in the world, things can not be all perfect. Therefore, I have decided to share some of the things that I have struggled with versus the things I adore about the city of Marrakech. I have made a list of 5 things that I love and 5 things I don’t like.
Here are the 5 things I don’t like about Marrakech.
1.
If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with. The monkeys on chains and the snake charmers encouraging you to have your photo taken with them were hard for me to see. The monkeys have been brought down from their natural habitat in the Atlas mountains. I accept that local people need to make a living, but they clearly don’t look happy chained up all day. They are dressed in tutus and nappies, and it just feels wrong to me.
There are horse-drawn carriages taking tourists through the chaotic traffic into the newer part of the city. The donkeys pulling heavey laden carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists. I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists. The donkeys look as though they’re overworked and appear neglected.
I appreciate it’s the culture of Marrakech, and I have no right to criticise anyone’s way of life or impose my own beliefs onto another culture. However, I did struggle with it the first time I visited Marrakech. I avoided eye contact with the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, and eventually, they stopped approaching me. I would feel happier if a separate lane was implemented just for the horse-drawn carriages to use. For now, they are taken through some of the worst traffic I’ve ever seen, and I found that difficult to watch.
There are also a lot of stray dogs and cats in Marrakech. They are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by owners of the riads. They are regularly fed, and the local people try their best to look after them. However, I found it difficult to see the sheer volume of strays to begin with.
Finally, there are chickens in tiny cages and caged tortoises, If you are an animal lover like me, you may find all the above a bit shocking.
2.
Queueing at the airport.
Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, and all you can do is accept it. Take a snack and keep a drink with you. It is possible to pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.
Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the aircraft lands and consider choosing a seat near the entrance and exit. This way, you can get to the front of the queue quickly.
3.
Marrakech is touristy.
The narrow alleyways in the Souks can be very crowded. You and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time. Marrakech is one of the most visited destinations, and it may feel as though everyone is there at the same time as you.
Tip: Plan to visit in January or November when it’s quieter. There are fewer people around the main attractions, so you will get the perfect photo opportunity. Queues will be shorter also. Consider sightseeing and shopping early in the morning. It’s less crowded, and bargaining is easier.
4.
The smell of fumes in the souks.
The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past. The fumes can get stuck in the back of your throat, making you feel nauseous. Unfortunately, there is little you can do to change this. There are a lot of vehicles on the main roads around Marrakech, and they can be chaotic at times. Pollution can be bad in Marrakech. Just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.
5.
The vendors in the main square can be persistent.
During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people. The food stalls are all in competition with each other. Vendors will try to shove a menu in your face to get your custom. Some of them can be very persuasive, occasionally pushing the boundaries. It can become overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those situations
The henna ladies also vy for your custom. It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna, telling you that it’s a gift. After they’ve finished, they’ll ask for money from you, and it can get quite heated if you refuse.
Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to show interest by avoiding eye contact. Politely saying “La Shukran” meaning no thank you in darija, is a good way to discourage unwanted harassment.
Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people lost their livelihoods and homes. Whilst it was sometimes difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors. I had to remind myself that their struggle to survive is very real.
Marrakech is certainly a culture shock to many first-time visitors, and I was no exception.
I’ve shared 5 of the things I find challenging about Marrakech. I would now like to tell you about what it is that keeps me going back time and time again.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Here are 5 things I love about Marrakech.
1.
The people.
You can expect to meet the friendliest, most welcoming people you have ever met in Marrakech. They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city. They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages. They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa. Many of the people of Marrakech identify as Amazigh, and the history of their culture is really interesting. Moroccans are some of the most hospitable people in the world, and I always feel welcome.
2.
The vibrant colours and craftsmanship in Marrakech.
If, like me, you are drawn to colourful things, you will be in your element in the Souks. You will find jewellery, Berber rugs, wood carvings, and an array of other handcrafted items. Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye. You will see skilled artisans creating Moroccan lamps and women demonstrating carpet weaving. The souks are a cacophony of colours. Lively and energetic. It’s a sight to behold.
3.
The food is delicious.
There are plenty of great restaurants in Marrakech, and the food is excellent. There are vegetarian and vegan restaurants, and many cater for people with gluten intolerance. The food is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate. I would need years to work my way through all the exciting menus in Marrakech.
I enjoyed every meal I ordered, especially tagine and couscous. The deserts in Marrakesh are incredible. My favourite was the Japanese souffle pancakes in Fluffys.
4.
The Islamic architecture.
Islamic architecture, with its symmetry and attention to detail, is beautiful and had me spellbound. I recommend visiting the places below to see some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture and craftsmanship.
. Bahia Palace.
. Madrasa Ben Youssef.
. The saadian Tombs.
. The Koutoubia Mosque.
. Bacha Museum.
. Marrakech Museum
I loved the large wooden doors around the medina. The intricately carved cedarwood was a pleasure to see.
5.
Marrakech is central for visiting other places
I took a trip out to Agafay desert, and it was magical. There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa. You can take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira on the coast for the day. There are shared taxis to Imlil in the Atlas mountains and domestic flights to Tangier. If you have three days to spare, you can venture further into the Sahara desert. If not, you can take a camel ride at sunset in the Palmerai. There are plenty of excursions that are accessible from the city, and the transport system is developing rapidly. Supratours and CTM buses can take you to many places, including Essaouira, in three hours.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are so many reasons why I love Marrakech. I have featured only a few.
If you’re looking for a place that combines ancient and modern. A place that is diverse. Somewhere that can sometimes feel like organised chaos yet functions perfectly. A place that will transport you to the tales from Arabian Nights, Marrakech, is all of those things and more. However, do not be under any illusion that you won’t see things you find difficult. Go with an open mind and compassion. That way, you will be prepared for the things you find different from what you’re used to.
The Sound Of The Souks 