The Spice Square, also known as Rahba Kedima, is a smaller market, less densely packed with tourists. It is located at the end of Souk Semmarine and a five minute walk from Jamaa El Fna.
It is here that you will find a wonderful selection of spices, including saffron, cumin, and turmeric. The spices are beautifully displayed in pyramids around the square, and the air is fragrant with the scent of incense. There are dried herbs, oils, potions, dried tea, and the traditional Moroccan lip stain.
The Spice Square is the traditional apothecary of Marrakech and a treasure trove of Moroccan culture.
In the Spice Square, you will also find hand woven baskets, straw hats, baby tortoises, and shops selling Amazigh jewellery ,Tuareg leather amulets and beautiful throws and wall hangings. It is a vibrant, colourful market with a less frantic pace than Jamaa El Fna.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The Spice Square is home to popular restaurants like Cafe Des Espices and Nomad, a well-known restaurant amongst tourists who flock to watch the setting sun from the rooftop terrace.
The Spice Square is not far from the Medersa Ben Youseff and Marrakech museum, so it’s ideal for making it part of your day when visiting both of these attractions.
Until the 20th century, Rahba Kedima was the cities grain market and the place where slaves were sold. It is now the epicentre of the medina where you can pick up the famous Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout and watch the spice sellers who come down from the mountain villages at 4.00 in the afternoon to sell their trade. The smells and colours are heady, as friendly vendors demonstrate the benefits of eucalyptus and other herbal remedies to the tourists.
The Spice Square is a photogenic place where you will be met with a glimpse of trading traditions from the past. It’s the perfect balance between a bustling market experience and a relaxed, more laid-back atmosphere.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
As you meander your way through the busy Semmarine souk, it suddenly opens up to this feast of exotic colours that seem to appear out of nowhere. You will be greeted by a display of tantalising and pungent aromas that have become the essence of Marrakech.
There are a few budget cafes around the spice square that are ideal spots for a pot of mint tea whilst sitting in the sunshine absorbing this sensual experience.
The Palmerai is a 54 square mile palm oasis on the northeast edge of Marrakech. It’s a 20-minute drive from the city centre and is well known for its lush landscape, high-end resorts, and popular activities.
I needed to take a break from the manic pace of life in the medina, so I decided to visit the Palmerai for a camel ride at sunset. I booked the activity through Get Your Guide, and I was picked up at 4.00pm next to the Islane Hotel. I was part of a small group, and we were taken to our destination in a small air-conditioned van.
After a short drive, the scenery began to change into open roads landscaped with thousands of palm trees. There were camels sitting at the sides of the road wearing colourfully decorated seats, waiting to take tourists for a ride around the scenic area.
Once we had arrived at our destination, I was dressed in traditional blue Tuareg clothing and helped onto my camel by a friendly camel driver.
Video taken by our guide Mohammed.
Soon afterwards, we set off trekking through the palm groves as the sun began to set. The trek lasted for around 40 minutes across a stretch of gravelly ground.
I have every respect for the Tuareg, who would spend months on the back of a camel in search of salt mines. However, they are not the most comfortable creatures, and 40 minutes was more than enough for me.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
It was late March when I went. Therefore, I imagine the sunset would be more spectacular during the summer months. It was still nice and peaceful, even if I didn’t get the wow factor I was hoping for.
The camel drivers were entertaining, singing songs along the way and making little camels for us by plaiting the grass they picked along our route.
Back at the vehicle, the camel drivers prepared a pot of mint tea for us all. After drinking it, we got back into the van and were soon heading back into Marrakech.
My thoughts on the activity are mixed. It was good to get out of the busy city for a short while, and the scenery was nice. I enjoyed seeing another side of Marrakech, but I didn’t really get the experience I was hoping for. Perhaps it was the overcast sky spoiling my expectations of a dramatic sunset or how swiftly the event seemed to come to an end.
In terms of value for money, I think that quad biking may have been the better option. On a positive note, our guide was lovely. He took videos and photographs for me and helped me into my headscarf.
If I return to this part of Marrakech, I will try another activity. The Palmerai hosts balloon rides, which are available through Paradise Ballooning and Marrakech Balloon. There are several golf courses in the area also.
For people who want to experience riding a camel, the Palmerai is ideal due to its close proximity to Marrakech.
Marrakech is the perfect starting point for visiting other Moroccan destinations. One of the popular day trips from Marrakech is the beautiful city of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. The journey takes approximately 3 hours with a 20-minute break for refreshments midway through.
Essaouira is a delightful city, steeped in history. It is full of eclectic, quirky little shops, and the atmosphere is very bohemian. There are street musicians, local artists, and artisans plying their trade all around the picturesque old medina.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The beach is huge and a great place for a spot of sunbathing if the wind allows. You will most likely notice kite surfers because Essaouira is popular with the surfing community. The wind can be pretty wild, so it isn’t known as a beach destination, but on calm days, the beach attracts lots of local families and gets quite busy.
The temperature in Essaouira is cooler than it is in Marrakech. However, even on the windiest of days, you can not underestimate the power of the Moroccan sun. In the old medina, it can still feel very warm. Be mindful of this and apply sunscreen to stay safe.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The fort is exciting and offers incredible views over the Atlantic Ocean. Cannons look out across the dramatic blue sea, and tourists gather to take photos. In the distance, you can see the island of Mogador, once home to a notorious prison known as the Alcatraz of Morocco. The fort was also one of the locations where Game Of Thrones was filmed.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The port is one of the main attractions of Essaouira. The beautiful iconic blue fishing boats featured on every postcard of Essaouira are a sight to behold. Freshly caught fish are on display, including everything from sardines to baby sharks. The tourists queue to sample sea urchins and fresh oysters. It is possible to buy fish at the port and take it to a nearby cafe to be barbecued. There is also a fish market in the old medina that will barbecue fish for you. I have heard that prices here are better than the cafes next to the port.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Lovely little cafes adorn the streets of the old medina, perfect for a spot of people watching. Pumpkin Cafe is very popular with its pink hues and delicious pastries. Three Little Birds and Soul Cafe are vibey and serve great coffee.
There are plenty of great restaurants for lunch, and prices are more reasonable than Marrakech or Agadir. I recommend Mandala Society and The Loft, which has interesting decor and excellent food. Love Caravan is very exotic, and Salut Maroc does a very creative salad. It’s one of the best places to watch the sunset. Many of the restaurants play live music, and gnawa musicians can be heard all around the walls of the medina. After all, Essaouira is the spiritual capital and cultural home to gnawa music.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Moulay Hassan Square is a gathering place for the locals to sit and drink mint tea and coffee. It is a vibrant area and houses one of the main stages during the annual Gnawa Festival in June. Sitting in the sun, listening to the many street entertainers is a nice way to relax and experience the cities culture.
Cats wander around freely as if they have the right of way, and you can expect to see hundreds of them wherever you go in Essaouira. The locals look after them well, and it’s not uncommon to see cats sitting on the laps of the shop owners. Food, water, and shelter are strategically placed around the medina.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Essaouira is a fascinating place. Ideally, you would need at least a few days to appreciate it in its full entirety. There is plenty to do, and you need a couple of days to enjoy some of the attractions Essaouira has to offer.
The Jimi Hendrix cafe in Diabat is worth a visit for fans. Sidi Kouki 25 km away is a very chilled surfing spot with a long white beach. It’s a 30-minute ride by grand or private taxi, longer if you decide to take the bus.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
There is the opportunity to ride an Arabian horse across the beach. The horses are very well looked after, and the stables are spotlessly clean. This can be booked in advance through Get Your Guide or by visiting the stables in Diabat independentently, which I did. After visiting the Jimi Hendrix cafe, I simply wandered down to the stables and got to ride across the beach on my own with my guide. It was a memorable experience on a gentle horse called Andaluse, perfect for beginners.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
When visiting Essaouira, knowing a little bit of French or Darija helps because English is considered a foreign language, and you will hear much more spoken French than in Marrakech. However, the locals in Essaouira are friendly and welcoming and will go out of their way to help you.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The pace of life in Essaouira is much slower than Marrakech despite the growing influx of tourism and the popularity of this wonderful destination. Shops open slightly later and close earlier. The feeling is very laid-back.
Essaouira is ideal for solo travellers and families with children alike. The long promenade is kept beautifully clean and comes to life at dusk, lined with street vendors selling corn, ice cream, and sugar cane juice. Locals play football on the beach, and families and friends sit together watching the sunset.
Incidentally, Essaouira has one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever witnessed. The best places to watch it are from the ramparts or Salut Maroc and Taros. Both of these places serve alcoholic beverages.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Whilst it’s true that Essaouira is a very windy city, it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment of visiting, even between the months of June and August when the climate is perfect for surfing. The wind picks up during these months. However, if you carry a light jacket or sweater, you will be comfortable near the beach and ramparts where the wind is felt the most.
Essaouira is a very pretty city. The white buildings, with their blue shutters influenced by the Portuguese, are a complete contrast from the red city of Marrakech. Some visitors have claimed that it feels more like being in a European city than Morocco. The Amazigh culture is still very present in Essaouira despite its whitewashed buildings and laid-back charm.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I would recommend a visit to Essaouira as part of your itinerary when you’re visiting Marrakech. You can get a good feel of the city in a day. It may encourage you to return in order to spend a few more days exploring everything this great destination has to offer.
If you are travelling to Essaouira by yourself, I recommend taking the CTM or Supratours coach adjacent to the train station in Marrakech. Booking online guarantees you a seat, and there is a small charge of around 5 dirhams for your luggage. Backpacks can be taken on board free of charge. The coaches have air conditioning, and mine had reclining seats. The journey was very comfortable.
If you book as part of a group, including a guide, you may stop off and visit an argan cooperative during the journey. You may also stop to photograph the goats sitting in the argan trees. The journey may take slightly longer if you factor this in. On average, you get to spend approximately 4 hours sightseeing. Essaouira is a relatively small city, so you will have plenty of time to shop, have lunch, walk along the beach, and visit the port.
Just a gentle reminder, keep a few dirhams handy in case you need to use the bathroom during the rest stop. There is often an attendant present who will expect around 2 dirhams for the privilege of toilet tissue and the maintenance of the bathroom. It’s also a good idea to carry hand sanitiser.
Essaouira is sunny all year round, so it can be an enjoyable experience at any time of year. However, during June, when the annual Gnawa Festival takes place, it can be incredibly busy. At least 500,000 visitors descend on the city, which puts a strain on its infrastructure. The festival lasts 3 days. If you’re put off by huge crowds, I would choose a different time to visit. However, the energy around the city is electric during the festival, and it’s an explosion of sound and colour. Most visitors choose Essaouira for its contrast to the heady, over stimulation of Marrakech, so take that into consideration before planning a visit.
Whichever time you choose to come, your heart will be captured by Essaouira.
The Sound Of The Souks 