Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir. It is here that rich aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand, gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.
To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand. It’s an ancient technique of brewing coffee that involves no electricity, simply hot Merzouga sand.
The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina. It is soothing and velvety.
This charming little spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting. There is a small rooftop terrace where you can sit and enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of sheer self-indulgence
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.
It’s an experience watching the coffee being made from rich arabica and fragrant spices. In moments, it has heated up as if by magic. I savoured its unique taste whilst congratulating myself for finding this amazing discovery in the alleyways of the souks.
Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition. The friendly proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
It’s not just a cup of coffee. It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy souks.
Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.
The Palmerai is a 54 square mile palm oasis on the northeast edge of Marrakech. It’s a 20-minute drive from the city centre and is well known for its lush landscape, high-end resorts, and popular activities.
I needed to take a break from the manic pace of life in the medina, so I decided to visit the Palmerai for a camel ride at sunset. I booked the activity through Get Your Guide, and I was picked up at 4.00pm next to the Islane Hotel. I was part of a small group, and we were taken to our destination in a small air-conditioned van.
After a short drive, the scenery began to change into open roads landscaped with thousands of palm trees. There were camels sitting at the sides of the road wearing colourfully decorated seats, waiting to take tourists for a ride around the scenic area.
Once we had arrived at our destination, I was dressed in traditional blue Tuareg clothing and helped onto my camel by a friendly camel driver.
Video taken by our guide Mohammed.
Soon afterwards, we set off trekking through the palm groves as the sun began to set. The trek lasted for around 40 minutes across a stretch of gravelly ground.
I have every respect for the Tuareg, who would spend months on the back of a camel in search of salt mines. However, they are not the most comfortable creatures, and 40 minutes was more than enough for me.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
It was late March when I went. Therefore, I imagine the sunset would be more spectacular during the summer months. It was still nice and peaceful, even if I didn’t get the wow factor I was hoping for.
The camel drivers were entertaining, singing songs along the way and making little camels for us by plaiting the grass they picked along our route.
Back at the vehicle, the camel drivers prepared a pot of mint tea for us all. After drinking it, we got back into the van and were soon heading back into Marrakech.
My thoughts on the activity are mixed. It was good to get out of the busy city for a short while, and the scenery was nice. I enjoyed seeing another side of Marrakech, but I didn’t really get the experience I was hoping for. Perhaps it was the overcast sky spoiling my expectations of a dramatic sunset or how swiftly the event seemed to come to an end.
In terms of value for money, I think that quad biking may have been the better option. On a positive note, our guide was lovely. He took videos and photographs for me and helped me into my headscarf.
If I return to this part of Marrakech, I will try another activity. The Palmerai hosts balloon rides, which are available through Paradise Ballooning and Marrakech Balloon. There are several golf courses in the area also.
For people who want to experience riding a camel, the Palmerai is ideal due to its close proximity to Marrakech.
Named the second most beautiful garden in the world in 2022. The Majorelle Gardens is a one hectare botanical garden and artists landscape in Marrakech. It features a cubist villa designed by the French architect Paul Sinoir in the 1930s.
Inside the Majorelle Gardens, there are over 300 plant species from all over the world. There are Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees all coexisting together amongst a labyrinth of pathways. The tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species have produced some of the most visually appealing gardens in marrakech.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The gardens were originally designed by the French orientalist artist Jacques Majorelle in 1923. He planted numerous exotic species, added pools and fountains, and painted the architecture in the splendid blue that has become the iconic Marjorelle blue.
Sadly, he was forced to abandon his home due to divorce, and it was left to perish and decay due to neglect.
In 1980, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development. Together,they restored the house and brought the gardens back to their former glory. They added irrigation and doubled the amount of plants transforming the gardens into what they are today.
For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent
After his death in 2008, the gardens were donated to the Fondation Pierre Berge, a non-profit organisation based in Paris. Inside the garden, you will find a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it one of the most touristic attractions in Marrakech.
I sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation and colourful bougainvillaea, but I was never alone for too long. Despite the beauty of the gardens, there are swarms of people flocking to spend time here, and it’s not peaceful for long.
The art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place where tourists queue for the perfect instagram photos.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There is a cafe on site where visitors can get a bite to eat, and an interesting shop selling postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ annual Love sketches
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm. I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am. for the best experience, plus Booking online is essential to guarantee entry.
The ticket also permits entry into the YSL museum, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a visit if you are interested in the history of Amazigh culture. However, photography is not allowed inside these museums.
Opening times for the museum are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The price of a ticket varies depending on where you purchase them from, but you can expect to pay somewhere in the region of €24 to visit everything.
There are plenty of good restaurants outside the gardens, and I highly recommend My Kawa. There are also some great shops selling souvenirs and clothes.
Le Jardin Marjorelle was beautiful. The gardens are lush, and their are several places to sit and take in the splendid surroundings. However, the huge number of tourists detract from the serenity and peace that such a spectacular setting really deserves.
Le Jardin Marjorelle is located to the north west of Marrakech medina. It can be reached by taxi from Jamaa El Fna, or it’s a steady 30-minute walk.
Marrakech is the perfect starting point for visiting other Moroccan destinations. One of the popular day trips from Marrakech is the beautiful city of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. The journey takes approximately 3 hours with a 20-minute break for refreshments midway through.
Essaouira is a delightful city, steeped in history. It is full of eclectic, quirky little shops, and the atmosphere is very bohemian. There are street musicians, local artists, and artisans plying their trade all around the picturesque old medina.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The beach is huge and a great place for a spot of sunbathing if the wind allows. You will most likely notice kite surfers because Essaouira is popular with the surfing community. The wind can be pretty wild, so it isn’t known as a beach destination, but on calm days, the beach attracts lots of local families and gets quite busy.
The temperature in Essaouira is cooler than it is in Marrakech. However, even on the windiest of days, you can not underestimate the power of the Moroccan sun. In the old medina, it can still feel very warm. Be mindful of this and apply sunscreen to stay safe.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The fort is exciting and offers incredible views over the Atlantic Ocean. Cannons look out across the dramatic blue sea, and tourists gather to take photos. In the distance, you can see the island of Mogador, once home to a notorious prison known as the Alcatraz of Morocco. The fort was also one of the locations where Game Of Thrones was filmed.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The port is one of the main attractions of Essaouira. The beautiful iconic blue fishing boats featured on every postcard of Essaouira are a sight to behold. Freshly caught fish are on display, including everything from sardines to baby sharks. The tourists queue to sample sea urchins and fresh oysters. It is possible to buy fish at the port and take it to a nearby cafe to be barbecued. There is also a fish market in the old medina that will barbecue fish for you. I have heard that prices here are better than the cafes next to the port.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Lovely little cafes adorn the streets of the old medina, perfect for a spot of people watching. Pumpkin Cafe is very popular with its pink hues and delicious pastries. Three Little Birds and Soul Cafe are vibey and serve great coffee.
There are plenty of great restaurants for lunch, and prices are more reasonable than Marrakech or Agadir. I recommend Mandala Society and The Loft, which has interesting decor and excellent food. Love Caravan is very exotic, and Salut Maroc does a very creative salad. It’s one of the best places to watch the sunset. Many of the restaurants play live music, and gnawa musicians can be heard all around the walls of the medina. After all, Essaouira is the spiritual capital and cultural home to gnawa music.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Moulay Hassan Square is a gathering place for the locals to sit and drink mint tea and coffee. It is a vibrant area and houses one of the main stages during the annual Gnawa Festival in June. Sitting in the sun, listening to the many street entertainers is a nice way to relax and experience the cities culture.
Cats wander around freely as if they have the right of way, and you can expect to see hundreds of them wherever you go in Essaouira. The locals look after them well, and it’s not uncommon to see cats sitting on the laps of the shop owners. Food, water, and shelter are strategically placed around the medina.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Essaouira is a fascinating place. Ideally, you would need at least a few days to appreciate it in its full entirety. There is plenty to do, and you need a couple of days to enjoy some of the attractions Essaouira has to offer.
The Jimi Hendrix cafe in Diabat is worth a visit for fans. Sidi Kouki 25 km away is a very chilled surfing spot with a long white beach. It’s a 30-minute ride by grand or private taxi, longer if you decide to take the bus.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
There is the opportunity to ride an Arabian horse across the beach. The horses are very well looked after, and the stables are spotlessly clean. This can be booked in advance through Get Your Guide or by visiting the stables in Diabat independentently, which I did. After visiting the Jimi Hendrix cafe, I simply wandered down to the stables and got to ride across the beach on my own with my guide. It was a memorable experience on a gentle horse called Andaluse, perfect for beginners.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
When visiting Essaouira, knowing a little bit of French or Darija helps because English is considered a foreign language, and you will hear much more spoken French than in Marrakech. However, the locals in Essaouira are friendly and welcoming and will go out of their way to help you.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The pace of life in Essaouira is much slower than Marrakech despite the growing influx of tourism and the popularity of this wonderful destination. Shops open slightly later and close earlier. The feeling is very laid-back.
Essaouira is ideal for solo travellers and families with children alike. The long promenade is kept beautifully clean and comes to life at dusk, lined with street vendors selling corn, ice cream, and sugar cane juice. Locals play football on the beach, and families and friends sit together watching the sunset.
Incidentally, Essaouira has one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever witnessed. The best places to watch it are from the ramparts or Salut Maroc and Taros. Both of these places serve alcoholic beverages.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Whilst it’s true that Essaouira is a very windy city, it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment of visiting, even between the months of June and August when the climate is perfect for surfing. The wind picks up during these months. However, if you carry a light jacket or sweater, you will be comfortable near the beach and ramparts where the wind is felt the most.
Essaouira is a very pretty city. The white buildings, with their blue shutters influenced by the Portuguese, are a complete contrast from the red city of Marrakech. Some visitors have claimed that it feels more like being in a European city than Morocco. The Amazigh culture is still very present in Essaouira despite its whitewashed buildings and laid-back charm.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I would recommend a visit to Essaouira as part of your itinerary when you’re visiting Marrakech. You can get a good feel of the city in a day. It may encourage you to return in order to spend a few more days exploring everything this great destination has to offer.
If you are travelling to Essaouira by yourself, I recommend taking the CTM or Supratours coach adjacent to the train station in Marrakech. Booking online guarantees you a seat, and there is a small charge of around 5 dirhams for your luggage. Backpacks can be taken on board free of charge. The coaches have air conditioning, and mine had reclining seats. The journey was very comfortable.
If you book as part of a group, including a guide, you may stop off and visit an argan cooperative during the journey. You may also stop to photograph the goats sitting in the argan trees. The journey may take slightly longer if you factor this in. On average, you get to spend approximately 4 hours sightseeing. Essaouira is a relatively small city, so you will have plenty of time to shop, have lunch, walk along the beach, and visit the port.
Just a gentle reminder, keep a few dirhams handy in case you need to use the bathroom during the rest stop. There is often an attendant present who will expect around 2 dirhams for the privilege of toilet tissue and the maintenance of the bathroom. It’s also a good idea to carry hand sanitiser.
Essaouira is sunny all year round, so it can be an enjoyable experience at any time of year. However, during June, when the annual Gnawa Festival takes place, it can be incredibly busy. At least 500,000 visitors descend on the city, which puts a strain on its infrastructure. The festival lasts 3 days. If you’re put off by huge crowds, I would choose a different time to visit. However, the energy around the city is electric during the festival, and it’s an explosion of sound and colour. Most visitors choose Essaouira for its contrast to the heady, over stimulation of Marrakech, so take that into consideration before planning a visit.
Whichever time you choose to come, your heart will be captured by Essaouira.
A day trip to North Africa’s second largest waterfall.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Ouzoud Falls is the collective name for several waterfalls in the province of Azilal.
The waterfall is the second largest in Africa, and it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.
I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way. The mini bus had air conditioning and comfortable seating.
We drove for approximately one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break. There was a small women’s cooperative selling Argan oil for people who were interested.
Soon, we were on our way again, and the views of the Atlas Mountains were simply breathtaking. It was a really scenic drive, helping the time pass quickly.
When we arrived at Ouzoud, we were introduced to our guide and immediately set off walking. We rambled through the olive groves, and the cheeky Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.
The waterfall is visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points. It plunges 110 metres into the canyon below, and the red sandstone cliffs are a picturesque contrast against the lush green vegetation.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The hike around the waterfall is moderately strenuous, and their are occasional places to purchase fruit juice and take a rest. It was hot,and I was grateful for the chance to stop and recuperate for a while.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
A boat ride is part of the itinerary if you book a tour. The boats are vibrantly decorated and take to the water beneath the falls for a really close-up shot. It was an amazing experience. The feeling of the cool water spraying my face was a welcome relief from the heat.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Once the boat drops you off on the opposite side, it’s quite a steep climb up to get to the restaurants. I was lucky enough to get a table that overlooked the waterfall, and the view was incredible.
I ate a three course meal that included a small salad with bread and olives, followed by a tagine and fruit for dessert. It was pleasant looking down on the boats and seeing people having fun in the water whilst eating my lunch.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The meal cost around 150 dirhams. It was nothing spectacular, just a simple lunch in the most gorgeous of settings, but the portion was adequate.
After lunch, I walked further up a steep incline,where a lot more monkeys were gathered waiting for tourists to feed them. I fed a few of them with some food given to me by our guide.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The final part of the walk took me past a few souvenir stalls and a shop selling drinks and ice cream. Eventually, I made it back to the car park where the journey began.
The group was reunited with the driver, and then it was time to set off back to Marrakech. We stopped again for a toilet break midway through the journey, and it was early evening when I arrived back at the main square.
In my opinion, the trip to Ouzoud was definitely worth the six hours of travelling.
The highlight for me was sitting above the waterfall eating my lunch and looking at the spectacular view. The monkeys were also very amusing.
There is a fair amount of walking in the heat, and some of it is steep, but I was able to take my time, and the guide was really patient and kind. The walk was worth every moment to see the waterfall from all its vantage points.
Some people in the group who were struggling went up on Donkeys, so that’s an option if you have limited mobility.
I booked my trip with Get Your Guide and found it good value for money for such a great day out. It included the journey in an air-conditioned vehicle, the tour, and the boat ride. The lunch was separate. Your accommodation can also organise a trip to Ouzoud for you.
Cafe Clock is a cultural hub based in Fes, Marrakech, and Chefchouen. It was founded by Mike Richardson when he visited Fes in 2006 and fell in love with the ancient city. It was named after the centuries old water clock situated on the facing wall of the Bou Inania Madrasa.
Cafe Clock is now a buzzing hub of culture where you can sample its famous camel burgers. This lively space in the Kasbah district was once an old school house. It has since been converted and is renowned for its storytelling and live music events.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Cafe Clock is popular with young Moroccans learning the ancient traditional art of storytelling and travellers who are curious. There is nice energy here, and it’s a great place to come and chill.
At Cafe Clock, you can take cookery classes. You will be taken to the local markets to buy fresh ingredients before learning how to make a traditional Morroccan dish.
The interior of Cafe Clock has been decorated by local artists who have added their own unique touch.Colourful vintage berber cushions and thrifted whimsical finds are displayed around a large open fire place. There is a homely atmosphere at Cafe Clock.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I visited during December, and it was cold outside. Sitting next to the roaring fire, listening to a live acoustic guitar made me feel warm and cosy.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The menu is good and offers an interesting choice for vegetarians and vegans.I particularly recommend the falafel Super Bowl and vegetable pastilla.
If you’re travelling around Morocco, Cafe Clock is also extending its empire into other areas like Chefchouen.
Opening times for Cafe Clock are 9.00 am until 11.00pm daily. The address is 224 Derb Chtouka, Marrakech.
Cafe Clock is a popular cultural space dedicated to keeping the ancient culture of Marrakech alive. Whether it’s traditional gnawa musicians or the best raconteurs in Marrakech, you can expect an entertaining experience here.
Cafe Clock is also open for breakfast, with a good variety of choices on the menu.
Les Bains Kenaria has been revived to become a sanctuary in the medina. It’s over 400 years old and has been beautifully preserved and restored. The hammam still uses the ancient Moroccan tradition of heating using the wood fired method.
Services include newly added thermal rooms, warm baths, cold baths, a jacuzzi style pool, and a massage.
Les Bains Kenaria is also a rooftop cafe, and this is where my experience here began. I was lured in by the lush tropical plants that spoke to me from the intricately crafted doorway.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I made my way upstairs onto the pretty rooftop and was seated on a colourful couch. The staff were really friendly and courteous, and helped me to choose a vegetarian option from the menu.
I had one of the most delicious tagines I’ve had in Marrakech.The fresh vegetables included fava beans and olives and tasted absolutely sumptuous. I chose a beet smoothie for the first time. It was quite different from anything I’d had before, and I couldn’t decide if I liked it or not.
I watched the sun setting as I ate. I could hear the lively sounds of the souk below. It was a lovely atmosphere, and I could see everyday life taking place on the adjacent rooftops.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The setting was peaceful, despite it being in the busy medina. There were tourists shopping in the street below. I was still able to enjoy my meal feeling relaxed and stressfree. I took my time and didn’t feel rushed.
Dining on the rooftop terrace of Les Bains Kenaria was a lovely experience. The food is traditional Morroccan cuisine, and prices are very competitive. There is plenty of choice for lunch and dinner on the menu, and breakfast is also available. The lush plants and comfortable surroundings made it extra special. It was a contrast from the manic rhythm of the street below. This is definitely a place I will visit regularly.
The opening hours are 9.00 am until 8.00pm daily. The address is Bain Maure, N 132,Marrakech 40040, Morocco.
The Sound Of The Souks 