The Spice Square, also known as Rahba Kedima, is a smaller market, less densely packed with tourists.
It is located at the end of Souk Semmarine and a five minute walk from Jamaa El Fna.
It is here that you will find a wonderful selection of spices, including saffron, cumin, and turmeric.
The spices are beautifully displayed in pyramids around the square, and the air is fragrant with the scent of incense.
There are dried herbs, oils, potions, tea, and the traditional Moroccan lip stain.
The Spice Square is the traditional apothecary of Marrakech and a treasure trove of Moroccan culture.
In the Spice Square, you will also find hand woven baskets, hats, baby tortoises, and a range of shops selling Amazigh jewellery and other stuff.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
It is a vibrant, colourful market with a less frantic pace than Jamaa El Fna.
It is home to popular restaurants like the Cafe Des Espices, a rooftop restaurant that overlooks the market.
Nomad is also in close proximity to the Spice Square.
The Spice Square is not far from the Medersa Ben Youseff and Marrakech museum, so it’s ideal for making it part of your day when visiting both of these attractions.
Until the 20th century, Rahba Kedima was the cities grain market and the place where slaves were sold.
It is now the epicentre of the medina where you can pick up the famous Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout and watch the spice sellers who come down from the mountain villages at 4.00 in the afternoon to sell their trade to the professionals.
The smells and colours are heady with friendly vendors, demonstrating the benefits of eucalyptus.
The Spice Square is a photogenic place where you will be met with a glimpse of trading traditions from the past.
It’s the perfect balance between a bustling market experience and a relaxing, more laid-back atmosphere.
December in Marrakesh can still be warm and sunny, making it the perfect destination for people who don’t particularly enjoy the stifling summer temperatures.
If you want to avoid the huge crowds of tourists, you might prefer the months of December and January.
It’s worth noting that there is a possibility of more rain during the winter months, and evenings can be chilly, but packing the right clothing will ensure that you still have a wonderful experience.
In Gueliz and Hivenage, modern hotels and apartments have heating.
In the medina, riads have air conditioning and will supply their guests with extra warm blankets.
Wearing light layers and carrying a lightweight weatherproof jacket and umbrella will make visiting the city’s attractions more enjoyable.
I went in December, and it was still sunny most days, turning chillier after sunset.
I still had a brilliant time and found that vendors in the souks were easier to haggle with because of fewer tourists.
I even managed to bag a few really good deals to take home with me.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Another thing worth mentioning is that the price of flights and accommodation are significantly cheaper too.
Regarding day excursions, the Atlas mountains do get snow, so if you’re considering a day trip to Ourika Valley or Imlil, check if travel is safe before booking.
The train to Casablanca is operational, and buses to Essaouira still run, so that’s an alternative day trip if it’s too dangerous or cold to go hiking in the more remote areas.
I was pleasantly surprised at how often I was able to sit outside and people watch in Jamaa El Fna in December.
Some days were bright and sunny, and some were cloudy with marginally cooler temperatures.
I never felt cold and was able to walk around the medina comfortably.
Marrakech in December/image by Freebird Tracey.
Some of the restaurants I visited, such as The Clock in the Kasbah, had roaring fires during the evenings, creating a nice cosy atmosphere.
Occasionally, Marrakech can experience more rainfall than usual, so this is something to bear in mind.
If you don’t want to get caught out, take an umbrella out with you or a lightweight jacket.
There is still plenty to see and do, so don’t be too upset if you’re caught in a storm.
Tailor your itinerary to suit the climate and keep an eye on the weather forecast daily.
There are so many exciting museums such as the Museum of Photography and Berber Carpet Museum to keep you entertained.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I would definitely go again during winter.
It helped me to cope with the gloomy grey days in the UK and broke up the long winter.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
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An authentic district of Marrakech with more local people.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The Kasbah is a quieter part of Marrakech, with fewer tourists than the medina.
Staying in the Kasbah, you feel totally immersed in the culture of Marrakech as you rub shoulders with the friendly locals.
There are plenty of restaurants and shops including a good fixed price store selling everything you will find in the souks at a realistic price.
*See my separate post on Dar Bouchaib.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Inside the Kasbah, you can visit tourist attractions like the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.
Zeitoune Cafe overlooking the mosque is a lovely spot for lunch or a drink whilst taking a break from sightseeing.
Sitting outside on the colourful cushions people watching in the Moroccan sun was quite an experience.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The kasbah is about 15 to 20 minutes leisurely walking from the main square with plenty to see along the way.
The walk is interesting, with many shops and vendors selling all kinds of stuff.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
In the kasbah, there are a range of budget and high-end riads to stay in.
It is definitely quieter than the medina.
I stayed in Riad Hikaya, it was absolutely lovely and a totally relaxing few days for me.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
*See my separate article about staying at Riad Hikaya.
The Kasbah is the historical citadel in Marrakesh with fortified walls.
The narrow alleyways make it an exciting place to visit, and there are fewer motorcycles and donkeys trying to negotiate the streets at the same time as you, making it less stressful than the medina.
There are plenty of good restaurants to enjoy nice food so you won’t have to go too far.
The Kasbah is home to the Clock restaurant and its legendary camel burger and storytelling evenings.
Also, the Kasbah Cafe is a popular place for lunch and dinner.
Krepchy does a fantastic breakfast, and the prices are very reasonable.
I highly recommend the waffles.
To return from the medina, consider taking a tuk-tuk if the weather is hot.
It’s quite an adventure in itself as you rattle along the bumpy streets.
Spending an hour or two enjoying this interesting area of Marrakech is definitely worth it.
The locals are very friendly, and it was a pleasure getting the opportunity to sit and chat with them.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I would recommend staying in the kasbah if you prefer a quieter, more authentic experience in Marrakech.
A fixed price store in the Kasbah selling everything.
If you are fed up with haggling every time you want to buy something, there is a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.
Here, you will find everything that’s for sale in the souks but at a fixed price.
The perfumed oils are of a very high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several oils together.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
On the first floor, exquisite furniture, mirrors, Berber rugs, and other beautiful handmade pieces to furnish your home with.
They also ship worldwide.
The staff are incredibly helpful, and you can wander around the shop leisurely without any pressure to buy.
The store is huge and worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship and detail that’s gone into creating the furniture and mirrors on the upper floor.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The Kasbah is a 15 – to 20-minute walk from the main square with plenty of interesting shops and good restaurants along the way.
Here, you will find the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.
Dar Bouchaib can be found on;
Rue de La Kasbah,
Marrakech 40000.
Opening times are;
Daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm.
Bank holiday hours may differ.
Although part of visiting Marrakech is to enjoy shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling and knowing how much you should be paying for something can become slightly stressful.
Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof.
The prices are fixed and reflect what you should be paying for each item.
There is also a massive selection of wonderful Berber rugs for sale in the store.
Make it part of your visit to the Kasbah area.
You won’t be disappointed.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Dar Bouchaib is a few steps away from Krepchy.
If you’re sightseeing in the kasbah, I would recommend taking a look around this impressive store.
You may find something interesting to take home with you.
It is the first Moroccan tea house in marrakech, serving 12 teas from the 12 areas of Morrocco.
Set inside a former riad, it is a beautiful place to come and sample the 12 delicious teas on offer, along with modern oriental cakes.
There is table service, and the food is nicely presented, tasty, and varied.
There is a selection of light snacks to accompany your choice of tea available on the menu also.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The name 1112 signifies the date 1700 in the gregorian calendar and is etched into the wooden ceiling of the riad.
The riad was beautifully restored by a morroccan family who have been renowned for their expertise in the restoration of such properties since the 1990s.
The architecture is beautiful. Wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and exotic plants make it a delightful environment for sitting and reflecting on the past history of the importance of tea in Morrocco.
There are interesting facts about the introduction of tea into Morocco and a shop selling nicely packaged tea if you’re looking for a gift to take home with you.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
1112 has a nice rooftop.
After exploring the museum, it is worthwhile taking a look around this exquisite riad and savouring the whole experience.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Situated close to Ben Youssef, the address is;
12 Place De La Kissariat, Ben Youssef,
Marrakech.
They are open for breakfast and lunch.
What a lovely way to begin the day, or take a peaceful break from exploring the busy medina..
Marrakech is a culinary delight for all foodies out there.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The streets of Marrakech are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit.
There are herbs and spices galore everywhere you look.
The aromatic fragrance of street food fills the air, tempting the tastebuds.
Fine restaurants with impeccable service, in beautiful surroundings, call out to you to come inside and sample their cuisine.
But where do you start?
What do you order?
If you’re anything like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of places you’re visiting.
I particularly enjoy sampling the signature dishes of places I visit and eating the same food that the locals do.
It’s a way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.
The locals are very hospitable people and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family.
If you get the chance, go it’s the best way to gain understanding of the people and their hospitality.
So,with an overwhelming choice of food to choose from, you may need a little help to decide what to try..
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.
Tagine is the name of the clay or ceramic pot that the dish is cooked in.
It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre.
Chicken or lamb is the most popular.
Often, dates, olives, fresh lemon, and spices are added for flavour, and everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables.
It is eaten religiously on Fridays.
In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails for sale.
Tourists are targeted by street food vendors to try snails, and those who actually do say that they quite enjoyed the experience.
Apparently, the broth that they’re cooked in is quite tasty, and although it’s an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible.
Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us, but it appears to be popular in the main square and a regular sight on display during the evening.
The locals sit at street stalls eagerly munching on the spit roasted mutton, enjoying every morsel.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Every dish is served with traditional bread in Marrakech. It is freshly baked each morning and delicious served warm.
Tangier is also a popular dish.
It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam.
Traditionally, the tangier is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day.
It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread.
The meat is incredibly tender and simply falls off the bone.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are plenty of street food vendors in the medina, tucked away in the souks.
They serve really good quality food and it’s cheap.
Ideal for travellers on a tighter budget.
There is a row of street food vendors who only sell tangiers, and this is very popular with locals and tourists alike.
The area gets busy as people queue for a vessel of succulent lamb tipped out onto a plate ready for devouring.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Taking a street food tour is a great way to get to try the best places.
There are several tours available during the daytime or evening, and tourists get the chance to sample authentic Moroccan cuisine with a registered guide.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech caters to vegetarians and vegans also, with a good choice of quality food including excellent salads, delicious vegetable tagine, pastilla, and couscous.
Pigeon is also widely eaten in Marrakech and traditionally used as a filling in pastilla.
Then there are the camel burgers, popular at The Clock restaurant in the kasbah.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Several Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food.
Olives are served with tea and other beverages as a complimentary side dish.
They can be spicy or plain, always fresh, and the perfect aperitif.
They are deliciously fresh when bought straight from the vendors themselves.
Don’t hesitate to try some. They are truly amazing.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are incredibly good, and the desserts served after the main course of a meal are beautiful.
Moroccans have a sweet tooth as you will probably gather from the breakfasts.
The choice on most menus is really good and varied.
There’s no point watching your waistline here..
Dates are hugely popular, and medjool dates are known as ‘ fruits of the King’, so make sure to try some.
You won’t be disappointed.
Fresh fruit is for sale everywhere around the medina and incorporated into tantalising sweet dishes that make your mouth water.
NB: I have written a separate article about smoothies and juices in Marrakesh.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food.
With so much to choose from and so many different dishes and flavours to try, you would need months to eat your way through it all.
Not only is there a great variety of interesting and tasty food, but it’s beautifully presented too.
Imagine sitting in a tranquil, setting, next to exotic plants, and trickling fountains.
That’s my experience of eating in Marrakesh..
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The way to get to know people and their culture is through their food.
Marrakech is no exception.
Be open to getting out of your comfort zone and give some of the traditional Moroccan dishes a go..
What every female should know before arriving in the red city.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I would say that Marrakech is perfectly safe for women who travel alone..
The overall crime rate is relatively low, and most female travellers have a wonderful experience.
However, there are certain things to consider to help you feel confident and fit into Moroccan society.
Women in Marrakech dress modestly.
How you want to be treated will depend on how you present yourself.
Although Marrakech is a Muslim city, it is quite liberal and used to tourists, but showing too much flesh would be considered inappropriate.
Whilst you’re not expecting to adopt the hijab, you will certainly be regarded favourably if you dress slightly more conservatively.
Long, silk, or cotton dresses are perfect and keep you cool at the same time.
Palazzo trousers are comfortable and elegant.
I wore turbans, and I loved that my hair was tucked away, keeping me from feeling too hot whilst feeling sophisticated.
Many tourists wear the same style of clothing that they would back at home, so it’s really a matter of choice.
I would certainly encourage dressing appropriately if you’re visiting religious sites, though.
It’s a matter of respect.
You’ll notice how happy a small gesture like this makes the locals happy.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The people in Marrakesh are friendly and hospitable.
There may be situations where you will be asked if you need help to find your riad or the main square.
Simply decline the offer politely and go about your business.
Stand your ground when negotiating a price for something. Show you are confident and don’t be afraid to walk away if you’re not happy.
Some men may cat call or make comments, which may feel slightly intrusive.
Ignore them and move away. If anyone follows you, find a shop vendor or restaurant to sit in or threaten to find a police officer.
It’s rare that this happens, though, and police are everywhere around Marrakech, making sure that tourists are not hassled.
Knowing a few words in Arabic or French is always useful.
‘Non merci’ or ‘La Shukran’ for ‘no thank you’ will automatically bring a smile to the locals’ faces.
On the whole, I have never felt uncomfortable as a solo female traveller in Marrakech.
There are plenty of us about wandering through the souks and enjoying the tourist hot-spots.
Consider using a tour guide or joining a guided tour of the medina if you’re slightly anxious about exploring by yourself or if it’s your first time.
There are night tours, street food tours, and registered guides for visiting the local attractions.
Marrakech is a great place to visit as a solo female traveller if you treat it the same way as you would any other country wandering around by yourself.
In some ways, I would consider it safer than some European countries.
Most local people can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city.
Educate yourself on the cultural norms and differences and respect the local customs and traditions, and you will be perfectly safe.
You could carry a personal alarm with you if it helps you to feel less vulnerable.
Overall, you will feel perfectly safe.
Marrakech is very touristic, and there’s always crowds of people around.
Just be extra vigilant in busy, congested areas with your belongings.
The same way you would be anywhere else in the world.
Relax and trust that the people of Marrakech are friendly, kind, and caring.
Whilst it’s true that Marrakech is a meat eaters’ paradise, there are plenty of great restaurants and cafes serving vegetarian and vegan food.
Not being a meat eater myself, I was initially concerned that I’d spend my time in Marrakesh living off the delicious olives on sale in the souks.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I was pleasantly surprised.
There are a number of restaurants popping up that serve only vegetarian and vegan food.
One I highly recommend is La Famille.
Run solely by women, and in a pleasant outdoor setting, the food here was incredibly good.
The menu was small and creative and changed regularly to keep it exciting.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
There are plenty of choices for non meat eaters on the menu in most restaurants and cafes around the medina.
Sumptuous vegetable tagine, vegetable couscous, salads, and pasta dishes, to name just a few.
I never had a problem sourcing tasty and beautifully prepared meals whilst staying in Marrakesh.
The smaller cafes tucked away in the souks were slightly less accommodating, but if it’s a quick snack you’re looking for, the fresh olives and delicious pastries are a wonderful treat.
In the more luxurious restaurants, there is a good deal of variety for vegetarians and vegans.
The abundance of freshly cooked seasonal vegetables is mouth wateringly delicious.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Harissa soup was also a favourite of mine, deliciously tasty, served with traditional Morroccan bread.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I highly recommend trying the soup.
Some restaurants serve a healthy brunch.
I loved the avocado toast at La Ferme and again at Mandala Society.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The Clock in the kasbah does a really nice vegetable pastilla.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Please don’t be put off visiting Marrakech because you consider it to be a meat eaters paradise only.
By doing a little bit of research before travelling, you will find a good selection of fine restaurants and cafes serving authentic and traditional Morroccan cuisine that don’t include animal products.
A few I recommend are;
. La Famille
. La Ferme
. Enjoy your meal
Veggie Lovers.
. Mandala Society.
. Broc The Kasbah.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Palais Donab also does a lovely vegetable tagine, and it’s a beautiful place to have lunch or dinner.
I have written a separate article about Palais Dar Donab.
Write down the restaurants you wish to try before travelling, including their address and opening times.
This will save wandering around in the heat, looking for places suitable for your dietary preference.
Marrakech is a safe place for travellers with a relatively low crime rate, but scams can happen.
Like any other destination, there are several things to be mindful of as a first-time visitor to the red city.
There are a few potential scams that visitors for the first time to Marrakech should know about.
.The road is closed.
This is a regular scam that can leave tourists confused.
You’re trying to locate your riad or a point of interest, and someone (usually a young male) tells you that the road ahead is closed.
He asks you your destination and offers to escort you via an alternative route.
Before you know it, you’re wandering endlessly through the souks until you arrive at his friends shop.
You’re still lost, and now you’re being offered mint tea whilst his friend brings out a multitude of exotic spices or rugs.
The male who took you there gets a commission for safely delivering you there.
Slightly more if you buy.
If you’re approached in this way, a firm no thank you or La shoukran usually does the trick.
If he is very persistent, head to a nearest trader, and ask their advice about whether the road is closed or not.
Make your boundaries clear but remain polite and try not to get too impatient.
It can be difficult if you’re tired or overwhelmed, but showing your weakness will only show how vulnerable you are feeling, and you may become a target for more opportunists.
. I can take you to your riad.
When you first arrive in the medina, you are faced with a maze of alleyways and tunnels.
Often, your riad will be tucked away inside the souks or down one of these alleyways, hidden from view.
A tourist who looks as though they’re lost will invite the so-called ‘ helpful guide’ to your side who can show you exactly where you need to go.
He will escort you, taking the long route to your riad, and then demand a payment from you.
He may become quite persistent and insult you if you refuse to cough up.
I was taken off guard seconds away from my riad.
A young male basically nudged me along the narrow alleyway shoulder to shoulder. He demanded a payment, holding his hand out as I knocked on the door of my riad.
I told him I wasn’t lost and knew where I was going and that I hadn’t requested his help. He was quite cross with me and began insulting me in Arabic.
I stood my ground and ignored him until, eventually, the door opened, and I was let inside my riad.
This can feel somewhat intimidating, but don’t give in.
There are occasions when friendly locals really do want to genuinely help you find your way, and you will be grateful for their knowledge of the area.
Especially after a long flight.
However, this is a common problem and can become irritating, to say the least, if you have luggage with you.
Marrakech has a good police presence, and, in the worst case scenario, threatening persistent hangers on with that often does the trick.
Most will back off before it gets to that situation, though.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
.Over inflated prices for tourists.
There is a price for the attractions around the medina for tourists and a price for Moroccan residents.
This happens in many countries nowadays and you can’t protest much about it.
On the other hand, prices for street food and things you might wish to purchase in the souks are often much higher than they should be.
Learn to bargain with the salesperson, try dropping around 25%, and eventually, the pair of you will reach a price you’re both happy with.
Haggling is an art form, and it takes time to feel confident, but it’s a way of life in Marrakesh and can be quite a rewarding experience when you think you’ve managed to buy something for a fair price.
If you’re not happy, shop around. There are plenty of places selling the same goods around the souks.
There are also fixed price stores such as Dar Bouchaib in the kasbah.
. Gambling games in Jamaa El Fna.
During the evening, when the square comes to life, there are a few pockets of entertainment where gambling games take place.
These are scams that involve the winners working with the person in charge of the game.
They impersonate curious onlookers and ask to take part. They win, and a prize is exchanged.
These are not genuine participants, and the likelihood of you winning a cash prize is virtually nil.
. Unofficial tour guides.
Some tourists mentioned being approached by unofficial tour guides whilst visiting some of the attractions around the medina.
Males who begin by asking where you’re from, then following you around telling you a brief history of the place.
After some time, they ask you for a fee.
If you want a genuine tour guide, check the website of the attraction you’re visiting or consider booking an activity through Get Your Guide.
Booking. Com also offers attractions with a guided tour and transport.
Payment is upfront, and the guides are very friendly and knowledgeable.
Marrakech is an amazing destination with so much to see and do.
I have pointed out a few negative aspects that you should be aware of.
You may not experience any of these things.
I have been incredibly lucky with taxi drivers who often get a bad press for inflating prices.
I have had some positive experiences with taxis and felt very safe whilst travelling back to my hotel in a remote area.
Generally, the locals are very friendly, and tourists are made to feel very welcome.
There are the occasional poor people in Marrakech who see tourists as financially secure with more money than sense.
My advice is to make your boundaries clear from the start.
Get yourself some data by buying an Orange SIM for negotiating your way around the medina, and learn a few words of Arabic or French to help you to say no thank you.
Like anywhere else in the world, keep your wits about you in crowded places, and stay calm.