Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech In North Africa

  • RIAD PERSEPHONE

    A pretty riad close to Jemaa El Fna.

    Courtyard in Raid Persephone.

    This is a large riad very close to the main square. It has a very pretty courtyard with beautiful plants and a swimming pool.

    The colour of the walls are a lovely blue that works really well against the lush green foliage and tiled flooring.

    The rooftop is large with plenty of seating and a warm jacuzzi. It’s lit up in the evening and looks incredibly pretty.

    Views from the rooftop.

    The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the lively sound of everything that is going on until late at night.

    I chose a room on the rooftop. It was exceptionally pretty and decorated in a Saffron colour.

    Saffron room.

    For light sleepers, you may find the early morning call to pray rather loud, and the noise from the square may be a bit of a problem.

    The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning.

    I would recommend taking ear plugs.

    Riad Persephone is not a reasonably priced accommodation, and it is not a luxury riad.

    It has a rustic charm, and some areas are a little bit tired and in need of a face-lift.

    If you prefer a traditional style of riad, this is what you will get but at a high-end price. Don’t expect a five-star experience. You may be disappointed.

    The riad offers the usual activities and has a hammam.

    Riad Persephone is in a great location, close to some nice restaurants and shops.

    It is vibrant and colourful, with a few cosy little nooks to sit and relax.

    Interior of Riad Persephone.

    If you’re looking for a traditional riad,there are similar riads that have excellent customer service at a more reasonable price.

    At Raid Persephone, you are paying for the close proximity to the Jamma El Fna.

    Overall, it is aesthetically pretty and very close to the main square.

    If you are looking for a more intimate place with a friendly,  homestay vibe, there are better options available.

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  • LA FOUNTAINE DES ESPICES

    A vibrant place in the medina.

    If you’re looking for an authentic place to eat in the medina, try La Fountaine des Espices.

    I stumbled across this place one evening, and I have to say I was rather impressed.

    The service was very good, the food was incredibly tasty and the decor was elegant with a boho vibe.

    Interior of La Fountaine des Espices with dim lighting making it romantic and cosy.

    I visited a few times because I thoroughly enjoyed the food.

    They have a nice rooftop, and the waiters were so friendly and helpful, I was made to feel really welcome.

    The prices were reasonable considering the quality of the food, and the whole experience was excellent.

    They serve traditional Morroccan food, and you get an authentic feel for morroccan culture.

    I highly recommend their smoothies.

    My daughter and I chose the detox smoothie with apple, green lemon, celery, cucumber, and turmeric.

    There are plenty of choices on the menu, and they were beautifully made and exceptionally healthy.

    Smoothies in La Fountaine des Espices.

    For my meal, I opted for the vegetable tagine, and it was cooked to perfection.

    The service was relatively quick, and the waiters were attentive, making sure we were happy with our meal.

    My daughter tried the chicken pastilla and loved it. She said the chicken was tender, and the portion was a decent size.

    Vegetable tagine.

    Fountaine des Espices is a great little spot if you’re looking for a good quality meal in a nice environment with highly competitive prices.

    It’s particularly nice during the evening with candles lit on the tables, giving a nice romantic ambience whilst your dining.

    They serve breakfast, brunch, lunch, and dinner.

    You can also relax on the rooftop with a drink in the sunshine.

    The Fountaine des Espices is next to the Secret Garden, the address is,

    131 Rue Mouassine.

    It’s open from 10.00 am until 12.00 am, the busiest time is 3.00 pm.

    For more information, contact me via the email address below.

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  • TRADITIONAL BERBER RUGS

    A look at how Berber rugs are made.

    A woman weaving a Berber rug.

    Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.

    They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.

    Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness depending on which tribe has made it, so that they are suitable for the environment where they are used.

    For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.

    They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.

    Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.

    To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.

    Here are the steps taken to make a beautiful Berber rug.

    1. Shearing the Sheep

    Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife. The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip. The wool is then sorted and cleaned.

    It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.

    The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.

    2. Carding
    Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn.
    To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction. This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction. Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.
    Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable. The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.

    The women are often responsible for this process.

    3. Spinning into Yarn

    To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use a drop spindle.

    This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom. The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the woman’s hands. As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.

    4. Weaving the Berber Rug

    The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.

    This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last many years.
    The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.

    The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.

    Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into the rug using a loom.

    The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design.

    The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.

    The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.

    The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.

    Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.

    Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.

    It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.

    There are a few scams, so be aware before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local.

    Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.

    This is their address..

    Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco

    Beautiful Berber rugs.

    For more information or help with planning the perfect itinerary, please contact me using the email address below.

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  • THE HISTORY OF MARRAKECH

    A brief glimpse into the history of the red city.

    The magnificent Koutoubia Mosque.

    Marrakech has been inhabited for over 1000 years. The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.

    Morocco took its name from Marrakech, the Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.

    During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.

    They constructed an  underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.

    They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.

    His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.

    He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.

    It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.

    In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.

    They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque.

    They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.

    They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.

    They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.

    This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.

    The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.

    In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.

    They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne .

    Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but they much preferred the city of Fez, and so consequently, Marrakech was about to go into serious decline.

    Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.

    Because of this move,  Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected. The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.

    From 1578-1603, the Saadian  sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power, restoring the city to its former glory and establishing Marrakech as its capital city.

    They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.

    Saadian tombs/image Freebird Tracey
    El Badi Palace/images Freebird Tracey.

    They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.

    The Saads built Bab Doukkala 1557-1571 mosque and Mouassine mosque 1562-72.

    They also built Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.

    Madrasa Ben Youssef/images Freebird Tracey.

    In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.

    The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries. They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.

    They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.

    They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, developing it’s infrastructure.

    It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.

    Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.

    Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.

    The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.

    They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.

    In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.

    Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.

    It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.

    In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.

    It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.

    Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.

    Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.

    As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.

    Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating. It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..

    Gueliz area in Marrakech/images Freebird Tracey.

    For further information or advice on planning the perfect itinerary, get in touch using the contact details below..

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  • VISITING MARRAKECH ON A BUDGET

    Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a shoestring.

    Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank.

    In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.

    It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.

    I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.

    1.

    Book your flight early.

    The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.

    2.

    If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.

    3.

    Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.

    4.

    Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.

    4.

    Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.

    5.

    There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.

    Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate post about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.

    Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.

    Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.

    Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.

    6.

    Try a public hammam.

    I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.

    Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.

    You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.

    7.

    Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.

    Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.

    You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will work it out eventually.

    There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.

    8.

    Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.

    9.

    Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.

    10.

    Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.

    11.

    Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.

    Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.

    It’s a destination that is accessible for everyone, including those on a tighter budget.

    With some careful planning, you can put together an interesting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.

    If you need help to organise your trip or advice on places to eat or stay, reach out and leave me an email using the contact details below..

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  • THE AMAZIGH CULTURE

    A brief history of the indigenous people of North Africa.

    An Amazigh Woman displaying her Headdress.

    The Berbers, also known as the Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.

    They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.

    This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.

    The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.

    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers. During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and  throwing their society into chaos.

    The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance. 

    Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.

    The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.

    The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’

    Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.

    A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.

    You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.

    This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.

    The Souks sell beautiful Berber jewellery and rugs made by the Berber ladies.

    Images Freebird Tracey.

    See my separate post on Berber rugs.

    Beautiful Amazigh Women.

    For more information contact

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  • A TRADITIONAL MOROCCAN HAMMAM

    Experience a true taste of Marrakechi culture.

    One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.

    A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.

    It was a ritualistic cleansing that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.

    Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.

    Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.

    During a treatment, morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.

    It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.

    The scrubbing is quite vigorous.

    This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.

    A clay called Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body as it’s rich in minerals like silica,magnesium, and calcium.

    After this, your whole body is lathered thoroughly, including your hair with a gentler soap or gel.

    The next treatment is an all-over massage using exquisite oils like rose oil or argan oil..

    The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.

    Relaxing in heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.

    Once the treatment is finished,  you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries..

    The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the ambience.

    There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.

    The public or private hammam.

    The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.

    In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.

    These are much less expensive.

    The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.

    Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.

    You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.

    The underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for the male underwear instead.

    Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable or uncomfortable being so exposed with just a disposable thong hiding your modesty.

    The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very professional.

    Most women do get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.

    Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.

    Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service.

    Other popular hammams are,

    . Hammam de la rose.

    . Mamounia Hamman..

    . Les Bains Ziani.

    Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it,  check beforehand.

    Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.

    It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.

    Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.

    Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.

    I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.

    However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.

    You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, near the spice square.

    You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.

    Riads organise their own..

    Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear..

    For more information;

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  • THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MARRAKECH

    Helpful advice for visiting Marrakesh.

    Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.

    In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.

    There are 🏧 machines located around the city.

    I use the one outside the post office near where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.

    The exchange rate is good, and it was always working.

    You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.

    There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.

    It’s advisable to always carry a small amount of cash with you.

    It’s useful for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.

    Something you may want to consider if you don’t wish to get any cash at the airport is..

    Make sure to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.

    Most accommodations will do this for you when you book, and it’s prepaid.

    You will probably need a SIM card.

    I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.

    This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived.

    Having data gave me reassurance as a solo traveller.

    I could use Google maps in the souks, which was helpful in case I got lost.

    Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually exceptionally good.

    So it’s nice to be nice.

    I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.

    You can drink the tap water allegedly.

    Personally, I didn’t.

    I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus it doesn’t taste that good.

    There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell water.

    Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.

    Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.

    The same applies to shopping in the souks.

    Aim to arrive at places like Bacha Coffee and Bahia Palace for around 9.30.am.

    Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.

    However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.

    Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.

    NB: See my separate post on what to wear when visiting Marrakech.

    Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.

    There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.

    Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.

    Some high-end riads and hotels will have alcohol also.

    It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.

    If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.

    The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.

    People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.

    It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.

    Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.

    Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.

    Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.

    The locals will love telling you all about it..

    There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a dirhams.

    I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.

    Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.

    Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.

    The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.

    I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.

    NB: See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.

    Happy travels.

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  • HENNA ART CAFE

    A great place for lunch in the medina.

    Interior of Henna Art Cafe

    The first place I go after arriving in the medina is Henna Art Cafe.

    It’s the perfect spot to stop and refuel myself.

    I can familiarise myself with where I am and check Google maps for the location of my riad.

    It’s a quirky place with decent food and the funkiest little bathroom, even if it is a bit of a tight squeeze.

    On the first floor, you can get henna tattoos done, and there are plenty of designs to choose from.

    All are 100% natural.

    It’s a really relaxing vibe here, and I often enjoy a light snack at lunchtime whilst shopping in the medina.

    It’s also very reasonably priced.

    There is a good selection of food on the menu, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options are available.

    There is free WiFi, and you can often find digital nomads enjoying a quick bite to eat here. 

    It’s a friendly place and a good introduction to the medina without being too in your face..

    Henna Art Cafe is located in the heart of the medina, just  three minutes stroll down Riad Zeitoun al Kdim from Djemma El Fna.

    It is open 7 days a week from 11 to 8.30 PM.

    During Ramadan, it closes earlier at 5.30 PM.

    A refreshing glass of lemonade
    A simple vegetable tagine
    Silver babouche cutlery holders

    Payment is taken downstairs on the way out, and cards are accepted here.

    After a nice meal and a rest at Henna Art Cafe, I’m ready to tackle the challenge of trying to locate my riad.

    Lunch upstairs on the terrace
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  • FIVE THINGS I LOVE AND HATE ABOUT MARRAKECH

    A list of my favourite and challenging things in Marrakech.

    Colourful Babouches

    Marrakech is ‘my happy place’. It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Hivernage in the new part of the city.

    Visitors may find the experience to be an assault on the senses.

    The lively sounds, sights, and smells can be a complete overload on the senses and somewhat overwhelming to the most seasoned traveller.

    However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech.

    You do become accustomed to it, and it’s part of the charm of Marrakech.

    I have made a list of the 5 things that I myself love and hate about this fascinating city to help you get the most out of your visit.

    Here are the 5 things I hate about Marrakech.

    1.

    If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.

    The monkeys on chains and the snakes (which you are encouraged to have a photo taken with) are difficult to accept.

    Don’t encourage this.

    The monkies have been brought down from the Atlas mountains, and although people need to make a living, they clearly don’t want to be there.

    Then there are the horses, taking tourists through busy traffic and the donkeys pulling carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.

    The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.

    The donkeys look overworked and neglected.

    It’s the culture of the city, but very different from what I’m used to.

    I avoided eye contact with the  snake charmers and monkeys in the square, and they stopped approaching me eventually.

    There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of the riads.

    They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring as a rule.

    If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.

    I joined Brooke, a sanctuary, for working animals abroad when I arrived home.

    I can’t change how people earn their money, but I can help to educate them.

    2.

    Queueing at the airport.

    Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so get used to it.

    Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.

    You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.

    Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.

    Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.

    3.

    Marrakech is touristy.

    The narrow alleys of the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.

    Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.

    Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it will certainly feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.

    Tip: Plan to visit in January or November to avoid the crowds.

    It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.

    There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will get that perfect photo opportunity.

    Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors. They don’t feel comfortable about it and may even expect a payment from you.

    4.

    The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks.

    Everyone in Marrakech seems to own a motorcycle, and they all appear to be riding them at the same time.

    The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.

    This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.

    There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get busy.

    Around 9.00 is an ideal time.

    There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.

    Pollution is fairly bad, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.

    5.

    The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.

    During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.

    This includes the locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.

    The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors can follow you persistently with a menu to get your custom.

    Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries of what’s considered to be harassment

    It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations

    The henna ladies are also demanding your custom.

    It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them without your consent.

    Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to make eye contact with any of the vendors.

    Saying “ La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.

    It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.

    Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.

    Whilst it’s difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors vying for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive.

    Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.

    So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

    A lovely man shows me inside the Hammam/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’

    I am absolutely in love with this city.

    Here’s why…

    1.

    The people are wonderful.

    You can expect to encounter the friendliest and most welcoming people you have ever met.

    They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.

    They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.

    They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.

    It’s absolutely fascinating, and it’s possible to stay with Amazigh people in the Atlas mountains during your trip.

    The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the riad owners go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.

    I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.

    They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard. The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.

    They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after the exhilaration outside.

    NB: I have a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.

    2.

    The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship.

    If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful colours and intricate designs, you will be in paradise in the Souks.

    You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products

    You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items at a decent price.

    Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.

    Just be prepared to barter.

    3.

    The food is delicious.

    There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.

    There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.

    The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.

    I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.

    The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.

    Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in

    It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.

    Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.

    There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found around the square.

    This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists and locals than those people who prefer fine dining.

    Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer and the stunning restaurant settings.

    I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee ( see my separate post)

    There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.

    You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.

    4.

    The architecture is absolutely stunning.

    There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely astonishing.

    Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.

    The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.

    I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,

    . Bahia Palace.

    . Madrasa Ben Youssef.

    . The saadian Tombs.

    . The Koutoubia Mosque.

    . The Secret Garden.

    . Bacha Museum.

    Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.

    5.

    Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places

    I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.

    I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..

    There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience the monkeys.

    You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.

    If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.

    Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.

    Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

    Ouzoud Waterfall.

    There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.

    Here are a few other things to take into consideration..

    Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.

    Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.

    I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.

    Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.

    Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

    If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity,

    A place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet  perfectly functional,

    A place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,

    Then Marrakech is for you.

    I would recommend doing your research before visiting. Watch YouTube videos and read travel blogs.

    Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge before you arrive so that you will know what to expect.

    That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will stay with you forever.

    Intricately tiled fountain.

    Continue reading for more information about the places mentioned in this post..

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