Tag: Amazigh culture

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee.

    Traditional Saharan Coffee. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Coffee brewed using a centuries old technique.

    Check Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir.

    Rich, aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand and gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.

    To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand.

    The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina.

    This charming spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is also a rooftop where you can sit to enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of self-indulgence

    Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.

    It’s an experience seeing the coffee gently warmed by hot Merzouga desert sand and savouring its unique taste.

    I was surprised how quickly the coffee became hot. I sat watching it being made from arabica and fragrant spices, which filled the air around me.

    Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition.

    The friendly, welcoming proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not just a cup of coffee.

    It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy alleyways of the souks.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.

    (more…)
  • Riad Bohemian Jungle.

    The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Straight out of a tale from Arabian Nights, Riad Bohemian Jungle exudes charm and authenticity.

    The interior decor is simply captivating, with several magical nooks and crannies to sit and take in its splendour.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in.

    The green tiles and exotic plants are stunning focal points of the riad.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is truly decadent. 

    There are pretty pink flowers, which drape into the courtyard below, plants and moroccan lanterns.

    A balinese bed for relaxing on and catching some sun rays, and a cerise, romantic boudoir area, where the staff play traditional tuareg music.

    There are areas to sit in the shade and relax with a book.

    This is perfect for when the hot morroccan sun reaches its highest temperature in the day.

    The riad lives up to its name. It certainly is a jungle.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The riad is run by young men from the Sahara region, and they enjoy sharing their fascinating culture with guests.

    The breakfasts are varied and wholesome, consisting of a mix of traditional pancakes, honey, and jam.

    Fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.

    Fresh orange juice and coffee.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits, whilst you are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.

    Sunrise from the rooftop of the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey.

    This becomes helpful for finding your way back to the riad.

    The fragrance inside the riad is intoxicating as orange blossom, and cinnamon oil gently floats on the air.

    During the evening, lamps glow, and traditional Berber music plays subtly in the background.

    I never wanted to leave.

    I was so happy sitting inside the riad, taking in its beauty and experiencing the wonder of such a magnificent place.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly.

    If you are looking for TVs or a modern, luxurious style of accommodation you won’t find it here.

    This is an eclectic, boho environment that lives up to its name.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture, lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.

    It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and several nice shops and restaurants.

    The address is;

    Derb al Maada

    Hay azbezte

    39 Medina, Medina 40030

    Marrakech, Morrocco.

    Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can also be arranged by this riad.

    They are good value for money and well organised.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • Traditional Moroccan Berber Rugs.

    A look at how Berber rugs are made.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.

    They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.

    Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.

    For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.

    They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.

    Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.

    To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.

    There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug..

    1. Shearing the Sheep

    Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife.

    The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip.

    The wool is then sorted and cleaned.

    It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.

    The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.

    2. Carding.


    Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn.
    To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.

    This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction.

    Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.
    Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable.

    The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.

    The women are often responsible for this process.

    3. Spinning the wool into yarn.


    To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle.

    This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom.

    The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands.

    As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.

    4. Weaving the rug.

    The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.

    This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last for many years.
    The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.

    The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.

    Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.

    The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design.
    The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.

    The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.

    The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.

    Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task, and the women of the village who weave them rarely get anything near the price they’re sold for.

    Husbands load them onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer who gives him a fraction of their value.

    Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.

    They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.

    There are a few scams, so be mindful before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local, promising you the best quality and prices.

    Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.

    This is their address..

    Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco.

    Dar Bouchaib in the Kasbah is a fixed price store that also ships rugs and has a huge selection.

    There is also a carpet museum in the souks, and it’s well worth a visit to learn more about how they’re made.

    They have some beautiful vintage rugs on display.

    I have written an article about this fascinating place.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • The Amazigh.

    A brief history of the indigenous people of North Africa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Berbers, also known as  Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.

    They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.

    This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.

    The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.
    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.

    During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and  throwing their society into chaos.

    The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance. 

    Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.

    The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.

    The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’

    Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.

    A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.

    You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.

    This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.

    There is a lot of beautiful  jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh people for sale in the medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco.

    To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum.

    Both places are fascinating and gave me a deeper insight into the history of Amazigh culture.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • A Traditional Moroccan Hammam.

    Experience a true taste of Marrakechi culture.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.

    A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.

    It was a ritualistic cleansing ritual that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.

    Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.

    Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.

    Relaxing in the heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.

    Morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.

    It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.

    The scrubbing is quite vigorous, and many tourists are not used to it.

    This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.

    Some hammams alternative between buckets of cold water and buckets of hot water.

    In more luxurious hammams, Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body.

    It’s rich in minerals like silica, magnesium, and calcium.

    After this procedure, your whole body and hair are lathered thoroughly with a gentler soap or gel.

    The next treatment is an all-over massage using fragrant oils like rose oil and argan oil.

    Once the treatment is finished,  you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries.

    The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the relaxing ambience.

    There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.

    Public or private hammams.

    The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.

    In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.

    These are much less expensive.

    The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.

    Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.

    These are more like spa treatments.

    You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.

    It’s worth noting that the underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for male underwear instead.

    Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable being exposed with just a disposable thong hiding their modesty.

    The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very discreet and professional.

    Most women get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.

    Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh.

    It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.

    Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service to their guests.

    Other popular hammams are,

    . Hammam de la rose.

    . Mamounia Hamman..

    . Les Bains Ziani.

    . Les Bains Kenaria.

    Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it, make sure to check beforehand.

    Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.

    It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.

    Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.

    Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.

    Some tourists are hooked, despite saying it was an unusual experience.

    I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.

    However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.

    You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, or in the spice square.

    You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.

    Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • A Few Things You Need To Know Before Coming To Marrakech.

    Helpful advice for visiting Marrakesh for the first time.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I’ve put together a few useful tips to help your trip run smoothly.

    Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.

    In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.

    There are plenty of 🏧 machines located around the city.

    I use the one outside the post office where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.

    The exchange rate is good, and it was usually working.

    You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.

    There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.

    It’s advisable to carry a small amount of cash with you for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.

    Something you may want to consider if you don’t have  cash at the airport is to ask your accommodation to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.

    Most accommodations will do this for you when you book. It’s prepaid, so you won’t have to worry.

    You will probably need a SIM card.

    I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.

    This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived in Marrakech.

    Having data gave me reassurance as a solo female traveller.

    I could use Google maps in the medina, which was helpful in case I got lost.

    It’s worth noting that Google Maps may not work in some areas of the souks, though.

    Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually very good, so it’s nice to be nice.

    I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.

    You can drink the tap water allegedly, but personally, I  wouldn’t recommend it.

    Some tourists have what’s called a GRAYL water bottle, which takes out the bad stuff, but I haven’t tried one myself.

    I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus the water doesn’t taste that good and water purifiers don’t change the taste of the water.

    There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell it.

    Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.

    Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.

    Places like Bacha Coffee can have waiting times for up to 2 hours, so come early and join the queue.

    The same applies to Bahia Palace and the Madrasa Ben Youseff.

    I found shopping in the souks early in the morning favourable.

    It was less crammed with tourists, and I avoided the mid afternoon heat.

    Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.

    However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.

    Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.

    I have written a separate post on what to wear when you’re visiting Marrakech.

    Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.

    There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.

    Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.

    Some high-end riads and hotels will also serve alcohol.

    It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.

    If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.

    The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.

    There is also a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.

    People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.

    It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.

    Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.

    Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.

    Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.

    The locals will love telling you all about it..

    There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a few dirhams.

    I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.

    Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.

    Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.

    The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.

    I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.

    See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.

    I hope some of these nuggets of advice help you to have the best experience in Marrakech.

    Happy Travels.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)