The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: Amazigh culture

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • The Amazigh.

    The indigenous people of North Africa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    In Marrakech, you will often hear the word Berber. Amazigh, also known as Berbers, is an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.They have lived across a vast region that encompasses modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system, an ancient water management technique involving a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands. This enabled farming and agriculture to thrive in a harsh environment. The Berbers existed as a totally self-sufficient community thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.


    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women to become slaves, throwing their society into complete chaos. The Berbers became known for their resistance, with some tribes turning to piracy as a way to survive and out of defiance against foreign powers. Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding ships and coastal towns, which led to conflicts  during the Barbary Wars.

    Despite all these challenges, the Berber culture has continued to endure, holding on to its distinct language, culture, and identity through sheer resilience.

    The history of Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic. Moroccan people are proud of their heritage and its rich culture, but they had to fight for the right to have it recognised. The name Berber comes from the roman word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive to use it to describe the indigenous people of North Africa. The name Amazigh, which means ‘free people’, is now used instead. Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco alongside Agadir.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh. A stay in a Berber home is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco. In the Atlas mountains, life continues in very much the same way as it always has.  Visitors to villages like Imlil get the opportunity to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and witness their day-to-day life, which isn’t an easy one. This fascinating experience can be booked online or through your accommodation.

    There is beautiful  jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh for sale in the medina. The art of carpet weaving by Amazigh women is demonstrated, and tourists get to appreciate the work that goes into producing these beautiful high-quality masterpieces

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum. Both places will  give you a deeper insight into the history and customs of Amazigh culture.

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  • Things To Know Before Visiting Marrakech.

    Helpful advice for first-time visitors.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I’ve put together a few useful tips to help your trip run smoothly.

    Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment. In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.There are plenty of 🏧 machines located around the city. I use the one outside the post office where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank. The exchange rate is good, and it is always working.

    You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great. There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city. It’s advisable to carry a small amount of cash with you for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.

    Ask for your accommodation to organise a taxi when you arrive in Marrakech. The cost goes onto your final bill when you check out, and you won’t have to worry about exchanging money in the airport.

    You will probably need a SIM card. I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me. This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived in Marrakech. Having data gave me reassurance as a solo female traveller.I could use Google maps to find my way around the medina, which was helpful if I got lost. It’s worth noting that Google Maps may not work in some of the denser areas of the souks, though.

    Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually very good, so it’s nice to be nice. I leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.

    Allegedly, you can drink the tap water in Marrakech, but I  wouldn’t recommend it. Some tourists use a GRAYL water bottle, which takes out the bad stuff, but it doesn’t change the taste of the water. I prefer to air on the side of caution. There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also stock some.

    Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca. However, Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up. They are well maintained and it’s a peaceful environment to spend some time relaxing.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening time for the best experience. Places like Bacha Coffee can have up to 2 hours waiting time to be seated, so come early and join the queue outside before they open. The same applies to Bahia Palace and the Madrasa Ben Youseff. If you want the perfect photo opportunity, get there early. Shopping in the souks early in the morning is more favourable. They are less crammed with tourists, and you avoid the mid afternoon heat.

    Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal. However,out of respect for the culture, it’s considered appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places. Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience. In clubs around the Gueliz area of the city, it’s  acceptable to wear flimsier clothing.

    Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists. There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as La Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar. Gueliz and Hivenage is the newer part of the city with plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcohol and lively entertainment. It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.

    If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market called Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex. The prices are slightly higher but you can buy beautifully handcrafted items without having to bargain for them. There is also a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.

    People in Marrakesh are often camera shy. It’s best not to take photographs of them unless they specifically say you can. Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, though.

    Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco. Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture. The locals will love telling you all about their heritage.

    There are a few scams going on in the main square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a few dirhams. I haven’t had any problems, but just like anywhere else in the world, it can happen. Just be mindful and keep your wits about you so that you don’t fall prey to anything.

    Marrakech is a safe city. However, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas. Keep your personal items in front of you, and don’t carry large amounts of money around. Make use of a safe if there is one in your  accommodation or only take out enough money for each day.

    The Souks close at 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around the medina after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller. I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can still feel rather unnerving walking back to your riad through the dark alleyways late at night.

    I hope these nuggets of advice will help you to have the best experience possible during your visit to Marrakech.

    Happy Travels.

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  • The Marrakech Museum.

    A fascinating museum next to Ben Youssef Madrasa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech Museum has a calmer atmosphere than other tourist attractions.

    It is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful museums I have ever seen. Literally, next door to Ben youssef Madrasa, it’s in a perfect location for combining both sightseeing attractions.

    I had mixed feelings about visiting after reading reviews, suggesting there wasn’t much to see. I was so glad that I did. It was really beautiful inside and held a lot of information about the Amazigh culture and the history of Marrakech.

    The museum was once Dar Mnebhi Palace, constructed at the beginning of the 20th century by Mehdi al-Mnebhi. It was renovated by the Omar Benjelloun Foundation and became a museum in 1997.

    It now houses a selection of art objects, including Berber jewellery, weapons, carpets, costumes, and pottery from Fes. There is also a variety of modern contemporary art that changes regularly to keep it exciting. Regular events and exhibitions are also held here.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The architecture is stunning with a large courtyard containing a huge central chandelier made up of brass pieces cut into ornate geometric and arabesque motifs.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There are fountains with beautiful coloured zellige tiles and rooms that branch off with ornate cedar wood and stucco decoration. There is also a centuries old hammam.

    In one corner of the courtyard sits a calligrapher who can write your name in Arabic on a postcard. If you want this as a gift, get him to scribe it before you begin looking around the museum as it takes a little while to dry.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Outside is a large open courtyard with a cafe where you can have drinks and light snacks. There’s also a small shop selling good quality prints, postcards and other interesting stuff.

    I really enjoyed the Marrakech museum. The architecture was beautiful, and I found it more low-key and less crowded than some of the other attractions around Marrakech. I liked the structure of the building from the outside and the typical red coloured clay that glows in different hues in the sunlight.

    I would recommend stopping by to explore some of the exhibits in the Marrakech Museum after visiting Ben Youssef Madrasa.There is no cafe within the Madrasa, so it’s a great place to stop and take a break from the heaving number of tourists and spend some time in a calmer environment.

    The Marrakech Museum is located at J2H6+VPJ, Place Ben Youssef, Marrakech 40000, and opening hours are 9.30am-6.00pm daily.

    There’s a small entry fee of approximately 50 dirhams.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • The Hammam.

    An ancient Moroccan bathing ritual.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the hammam.

    A hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco. It is a ritualistic cleansing that people do before prayer. This is the reason many hammams can be found near a mosque.

    Before homes had plumbing, a  communal hammam was the place where Moroccan people went to bathe. They were a sacred space where people gathered to socialise and relax, separated by gender.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Hammams are still widely used in Morocco today. They’ve become increasingly popular with tourists who wish to learn more about the country’s fascinating culture.

    The treatment always begins in a dry steam room. Heat opens up your pores and prepares your body for scrubbing. Morroccan black soap is used to scrub your body vigorously. It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating and removing dead skin cells.

    Traditionally, scrubbing is followed by throwing buckets of water over you to wash off the black soap. In a public hammam, buckets of cold and hot water are thrown simultaneously, which can be very invigorating.

    In some of the luxurious private hammams, Rassoul clay from the  high Atlas mountains is used to cover your body. It contains rich minerals such as silica, magnesium, and calcium, which is good for the skin. Next, your body and hair are lathered with a gentle soap or gel to wash off any residue. This is the final part of the cleansing ritual.

    Once your body and hair are thoroughly exfoliated and clean, you receive a massage using  fragrant oils such as rose or argan oil. This is an intensely relaxing experience.

    Once the treatment is over, you are encouraged to relax with a pot of mint tea and morroccan pastries. The fragrant incense filling the room induces a calm and relaxing ambience.

    There are two options for experiencing a hammam in Marrakech. One is a public hammam, and the other is a private one.

    A public hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, where local people bathe together chatting in darija,the Arabic dialect spoken in Morocco. Sometimes, women take their children in, and the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming. When you use a public hammam, you have to purchase your own soap and oils to take in. Using a public hammam is less expensive and one of the best ways to immerse yourself in the life of local people in Marrakesh. Public hammams are perfect for travellers on a budget, but don’t expect any frills. However, they are up close and personal to the customs and traditions of Moroccan people.

    On the other hand, private hammams provide you with everything you need. This includes soaps, massage oils, disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandals. Treatment options will vary, from the length of treatment to which kind of massage you prefer. You also get to choose which oils you would like. Interior decor can be quite luxurious, including exotic plants and comfortable couches to relax on. You are welcome to stay for as long as you want once the treatment is finished and some hammams serve food. Les Bains Kenaria is a prime example of a hammam with tranquil surroundings and good food.

    It’s worth pointing out that the underwear given to women is very flimsy. Some women ask for the male underwear instead. Nubies sometimes feel vulnerable in front of strangers with only a thong hiding their modesty. However, the rooms inside the hammam are dimly lit, and the Kassalas working there are very discreet. Most women soon get over their initial shyness.

    Hammam Mouassine is the oldest hammam in the city of Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden. Many riads also have a hammam, and this service is available for guests to book.

    Here are a few hammams in Marrakech you might wish to visit,

    . Hammam de la rose.

    . Mamounia Hamman..

    . Les Bains Ziani.

    . Les Bains Kenaria.

    Palm oil is sometimes used when washing hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it, check beforehand.

    Visiting a hammam has been an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries. Experiencing a traditional hammam is a break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna. It can be a relief from the baking heat in Marrakech and a chance to slow down from the manic pace.  Tourists who visit a hammam come away feeling refreshed, invigorated, and relaxed. Some tourists even become hooked, expressing it’s an unusual experience,difficult to describe in words, but they feel amazing afterwards and can not wait to go again.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If possible, I recommend paying a bit more for a private hammam, especially if it’s your first time. You feel less self-conscious because they’re similar to spa treatments in the West. It’s possible to book this kind of hammam through Get Your Guide, and they can come and collect you so you know where to go.

    If you want a taste of true Marrakchi life head for a public hammam. They’re budget friendly, and you can buy Morroccan black soap and other items you’ll need in the souks or the spice square. Don’t forget to take a towel, bathrobe and some fresh underwear in with you.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee.

    Taste traditional Saharan Coffee. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir. It is here that rich aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand, gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.

    To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand. It’s an ancient technique of brewing coffee that involves no electricity, simply hot Merzouga sand.

    The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina. It is soothing and velvety.

    This charming little spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting. There is a small rooftop terrace where you can sit and enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of sheer self-indulgence

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.

    It’s an experience watching the coffee being made from rich arabica and fragrant spices. In moments, it has heated up as if by magic. I savoured its unique taste whilst congratulating myself for finding this amazing discovery in the alleyways of the souks.

    Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition. The friendly proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not just a cup of coffee. It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy souks.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.

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  • Riad Bohemian Jungle.

    A riad conjuring up Tales of Arabian Nights.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech. Straight out of a tale from Arabian Nights, the Bohemian Jungle exudes charm and authenticity.

    The interior is captivating, with several nooks and crannies to sit taking in its splendour. The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in. The green zellige tiles and exotic plants are attractive focal points of the riad.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is decadent.  There are pretty pink flowers, which drape over the wall into the courtyard below. Plants and moroccan lamps are carefully situated amongst colourful seating areas. There’s a balinese bed and a cerise boudoir area, where staff play traditional tuareg music for their guests.

    There are areas to sit in the shade and relax with a book. Perfect for when the hot African sun reaches its  highest temperature in the day. The riad lives up to its name. It certainly is a jungle.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The riad is managed by young men from the Sahara desert, and they enjoy sharing their fascinating Amazigh culture with guests.

    The breakfasts vary each day. They consist of traditional pancakes, fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.

    When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits.You are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.This is helpful for finding your way back to the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The fragrance inside the riad is intoxicating. Orange blossom and cinnamon oil float on the air throughout the day. In the evening, the lamps glow, and traditional music plays quietly in the background. I never wanted to go out. I was happy sitting in the riad, experiencing the captivating surroundings.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly, and it’s easy to see why.

    If you are looking for TVs or a modern contemporary style of accommodation, you won’t find it here. This is an eclectic, boho environment that lives up to its name. Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture. Lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.

    It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and the Spice square. The vegetable market is near the Bohemian Jungle, and there are plenty of popular restaurants in the vicinity.

    The address is, Derb al Maada Hay azbezte 39 Medina, Medina 40030 Marrakech, Morrocco.

    Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can be arranged by this riad. They are good value for money and well organised.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Moroccan Berber Rugs.

    A look at how Berber rugs are made.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.

    They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains. Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.

    Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations.  To create them natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel are used. Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process. To create a single rug takes around one to two months, with four weavers working on one rug at a time.

    There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug.

    1. Shearing the Sheep

    Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife. The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip. The wool is then sorted and cleaned. It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection. The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.

    2. Carding.


    Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn. To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction. Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable. The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture. Women are responsible for this process.

    3. Spinning the wool into yarn.


    To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle. This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom. The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands. As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.

    4. Weaving the rug.

    The village women are responsible for weaving the rugs. Weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns. This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is durable and will last for many years.The process begins by the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits. This gives the rugs their characteristic colours. Once the yarn has been dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rugs design. The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom. The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads. Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is now finished.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task. The women of the village who weaved them rarely get anything near the price they’re eventually sold for. Their husbands load the rugs onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer. The buyer gives him a fraction of their value.

    Efforts are being made to make sure that ethical practices are being implemented. Many organizations now work directly with Berber artisans to eliminate middlemen, ensuring women receive fair payment for their work. More women are forming cooperatives to manage the entire process, increasing their income.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe. They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime. It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug. There are a few scams, so be mindful. Before you get taken to a shop where you’re promised the best quality and price, do your research.

    Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you. This is their address, Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco.

    Dar Bouchaib in the Kasbah is a fixed price store that also ships rugs worldwide and has a huge selection.

    To find out more about the history of Berber rugs, there is a carpet museum in the souks called The Maison Culturelle du Tapis. It’s worth visiting to learn more about how they’re made. They also have some beautiful vintage rugs on display.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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