Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: Atlas Mountains

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • Riad Hikaya.

    A beautifully restored riad in the Kasbah.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was purchased by an Englishman who spent 15 years restoring it.

    Riad Hikaya is a gorgeous riad located in the Kasbah district of Marrakech.

    It’s very beautiful inside, and the amount of work that has gone into restoring it is evident as soon as you walk through the door.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya is not considered a budget accommodation.

    However, considering its aesthetics and the professionalism of the staff, it’s worth paying a little bit extra to stay here.

    The breakfasts were really good and I ate my evening meal here one evening and the food was delicious.

    I had a three course meal, and it was freshly cooked.

    I sat at the edge of the pool to eat, admiring the stunning decor and the beautiful Moroccan lampshade that hung in the centre.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a beautiful rooftop with several places to sit in the shade or soak up some of the hot, morroccan sun.

    It is a lovely space to relax with colourful couches and cushions and lush green plants growing along the walls.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is a great place to stay with more of an authentic feel about it.

    There are fewer tourists, and the locals are friendly and welcoming.

    There are plenty of good restaurants, including The Clock, which is across the road from Riad Hikaya.

    There are plenty of shops and attractions such as El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs to explore.

    I enjoyed staying amongst the locals in the Kasbah, and it was an easy 20-minute walk to the main square, Jamaa El Fna.

    Riad Hikaya was a good choice of accommodation.

    I especially loved the large copper bathtub in my room and the total peace and quiet inside the riad

    If you’re looking for a lively scene, this place may not be for you.

    However, if you want to disconnect from the busy touristic areas for a while, it’s a perfect retreat.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed at Riad Hikaya in the winter, I expect it may be busier during the spring and summer months.

    The riad was warm and cosy, and I appreciated the way the room was heated to a nice  comfortable temperature.

    Some riads can be quite cold inside at this time of year.

    Riad Hikaya is a beautiful riad.

    The craftsmanship that’s gone into creating each piece of furniture and door is exceptional.

    The views of the snowcapped Atlas mountains in the morning are spectacular.

    I really enjoyed my winter break at this riad and would definitely return again.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • Traditional Moroccan Berber Rugs.

    A look at how Berber rugs are made.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.

    They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.

    Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.

    For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.

    They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.

    Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.

    To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.

    There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug..

    1. Shearing the Sheep

    Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife.

    The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip.

    The wool is then sorted and cleaned.

    It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.

    The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.

    2. Carding.


    Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn.
    To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.

    This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction.

    Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.
    Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable.

    The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.

    The women are often responsible for this process.

    3. Spinning the wool into yarn.


    To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle.

    This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom.

    The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands.

    As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.

    4. Weaving the rug.

    The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.

    This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last for many years.
    The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.

    The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.

    Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.

    The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design.
    The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.

    The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.

    The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.

    Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task, and the women of the village who weave them rarely get anything near the price they’re sold for.

    Husbands load them onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer who gives him a fraction of their value.

    Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.

    They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.

    There are a few scams, so be mindful before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local, promising you the best quality and prices.

    Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.

    This is their address..

    Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco.

    Dar Bouchaib in the Kasbah is a fixed price store that also ships rugs and has a huge selection.

    There is also a carpet museum in the souks, and it’s well worth a visit to learn more about how they’re made.

    They have some beautiful vintage rugs on display.

    I have written an article about this fascinating place.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • The Amazigh.

    A brief history of the indigenous people of North Africa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Berbers, also known as  Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.

    They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.

    This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.

    The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.
    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.

    During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and  throwing their society into chaos.

    The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance. 

    Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.

    The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.

    The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’

    Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.

    A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.

    You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.

    This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.

    There is a lot of beautiful  jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh people for sale in the medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco.

    To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum.

    Both places are fascinating and gave me a deeper insight into the history of Amazigh culture.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • A Day Trip To Ouzoud Waterfall.

    For a great day out, take a trip to Ouzoud to see the spectacular waterfall.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ouzoud Waterfall is the second largest waterfall in Africa.

    It is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.

    I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way.

    The mini bus had air conditioning and was pretty comfortable. We drove for around one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break and a drink.

    There was a small cooperative selling Argan oil, and a few tourists in the group purchased some to take home with them.

    Soon, we were on our way again, and the views of the Atlas Mountains were breathtaking.

    It was a really scenic drive, and time passed quickly.

    When we arrived at Ouzoud, we were introduced to our guide, who spoke several different languages, and we set off walking.

    We rambled through the olive groves as the cheeky wild Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The waterfall was visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points to take photographs or rest for a few moments.

    The waterfall plunges 110 metres into the canyon below, making it a breathtaking sight.

    It was a warm day, so we stopped for a freshly squeezed pomegranate juice before continuing our way down to where the boats were.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    A boat ride up against the waterfall is part of the itinerary if you book a tour.

    The boats are colourfully decorated, and we were taken right up to the waterfall, allowing us to get some great photos.

    It was an amazing experience.

    The feeling of the cool water spraying our faces was a welcome relief from the heat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    We were dropped off on the opposite side and then had quite a steep climb up to the restaurants.

    I was able to get a table overlooking the waterfall, and the view was amazing.

    I had a three course meal consisting of a starter, which was a small salad with fresh bread and olives, followed by a vegetable tagine and fruit for dessert.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The meal was finished off with a glass of Morroccan mint tea.

    The meal cost around 150 dirhams and was fairly good value.

    It was very tasty and filling enough for a light lunch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    After lunch, we made our way up some more steps, stopping off to feed the monkeys at the top.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Finally, we were reunited with our driver, and it was time to set off back to Marrakech.

    We stopped again on the way back for a toilet break and to pick up a drink or snack for the remainder of the journey.

    It was early evening when we arrived back in Marrakech.

    Overall, the trip to Ouzoud was well worth the six hours of travelling.

    It was absolutely beautiful. Sitting above the waterfall looking down at it whilst eating my lunch was the highlight of the trip for me.

    The monkeys were also very amusing, I had to keep hold of my sunglasses to stop them stealing them.

    The guide was so helpful and looked after everyone really well.

    He spoke five languages, and it was very impressive that he was able to communicate with the whole group.

    I highly recommend going to Ouzoud if you visit Marrakech. It’s a wonderful day trip.

    If you have mobility issues, it may be challenging for you. There are a lot of steps, and it’s a bit of a steep climb from where the boats are up to the restaurants.

    There’s also a fair amount of walking involved to see all the vantage points.

    Some people were taken back up on Donkeys, so that’s an option.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I booked my trip with Get Your Guide, and it was good value for money for such a great day out.

    It included the drive in an air-conditioned vehicle, the tour, and the boat ride.

    The lunch was separate.

    Your accommodation can also organise visiting Ouzoud and other popular day trips for you.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)