The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: Atlas Mountains

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • The Amazigh.

    The indigenous people of North Africa.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    In Marrakech, you will often hear the word Berber. Amazigh, also known as Berbers, is an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.They have lived across a vast region that encompasses modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system, an ancient water management technique involving a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands. This enabled farming and agriculture to thrive in a harsh environment. The Berbers existed as a totally self-sufficient community thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.


    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women to become slaves, throwing their society into complete chaos. The Berbers became known for their resistance, with some tribes turning to piracy as a way to survive and out of defiance against foreign powers. Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding ships and coastal towns, which led to conflicts  during the Barbary Wars.

    Despite all these challenges, the Berber culture has continued to endure, holding on to its distinct language, culture, and identity through sheer resilience.

    The history of Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic. Moroccan people are proud of their heritage and its rich culture, but they had to fight for the right to have it recognised. The name Berber comes from the roman word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive to use it to describe the indigenous people of North Africa. The name Amazigh, which means ‘free people’, is now used instead. Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco alongside Agadir.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh. A stay in a Berber home is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco. In the Atlas mountains, life continues in very much the same way as it always has.  Visitors to villages like Imlil get the opportunity to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and witness their day-to-day life, which isn’t an easy one. This fascinating experience can be booked online or through your accommodation.

    There is beautiful  jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh for sale in the medina. The art of carpet weaving by Amazigh women is demonstrated, and tourists get to appreciate the work that goes into producing these beautiful high-quality masterpieces

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum. Both places will  give you a deeper insight into the history and customs of Amazigh culture.

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • Maison Culturelle Du Tapis.

    Learn about the history of Berber carpet weaving.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Maison Culturelle du Tapis is tucked away in the souks and a place you must see if you’re in Marrakech. It’s a museum containing a remarkable exhibition of Berber carpets and a journey through the ancestral history of the tribes who created them. Beautiful carpets are draped along the walls of this boutique museum, each one made by different tribes and eras in Moroccan history.

    Situated deep within the medina at 16-18 Derb Deffa Ourbaa, it’s slightly hidden, but the vendors in the souk will point you in the right direction if you struggle to find it.

    The museum is a fascinating walk through the history of traditional carpet weaving, and some of them on display are generations old. They have been beautifully preserved, and each one is a testimony to Moroccos weaving heritage.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Every room of this tastefully restored 17th century riad invites you to look at each different region’s identity, from the Atlas Mountains to Rabat. You get to learn the meanings of Berber symbols and the specific colours each tribe used when weaving their carpets. Each carpet is unique and tells its own story.

    There are descriptions to help you appreciate the work that goes into creating each piece, including a detailed history about the Berber tribes who produced them. There’s also an interesting video showing you the process of creating the carpets and the history of the Berber women who spend months skillfully weaving each piece.

    On the first floor, you will find a workshop where you can have a go at making a small tapestry to take away with you. This is a two hour activity and ideal for families.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the treasures on display in the museum is the Rabat carpet, a symbol of royal elegance renowned for its rich decoration and finery.

    The museum also houses a collection of exquisite rare 20th-century carpets and modern contemporary pieces.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A visit to this delightful place was a nice break for me from the densely packed medina, and I would thoroughly recommend stopping by to have a look around it.

    There’s a small shop inside the museum selling rugs, cushion covers, and bags with   pieces of woven tapestry stitched into the centre. They are the perfect souvenir or gift to take home with you.

    After exploring the museum, you can relax on the pretty rooftop terrace, where you’ll find a nice cafe to have a light snack, homemade pastries, or a drink. The views across the medina from up here are incredible.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The museum is open from 10.00 am until 6.00pm and there’s a small entrance fee. It’s definitely worth every dirham to delve into the rich, cultural ancestry of the Amazigh and learn about their exceptional carpet weaving skills. Highly recommended.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • Ouzoud Waterfall.

    A day trip to North Africa’s second largest waterfall.  

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ouzoud Falls is the collective name for several waterfalls in the province of Azilal.

    The waterfall is the second largest in Africa, and it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.

    I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way. The mini bus had air conditioning and comfortable seating.

    We drove for approximately one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break. There was a small women’s cooperative selling Argan oil for people who were interested.

    Soon, we were on our way again, and the views of the Atlas Mountains were simply breathtaking. It was a really scenic drive, helping the time pass quickly.

    When we arrived at Ouzoud, we were introduced to our guide and immediately set off walking. We rambled through the olive groves, and the cheeky Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

    The waterfall is visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points. It plunges 110 metres into the canyon below, and the red sandstone cliffs are a picturesque contrast against the lush green vegetation.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The hike around the waterfall is moderately strenuous, and their are occasional places to purchase fruit juice and take a rest. It was hot,and I was grateful for the chance to stop and recuperate for a while.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    A boat ride is part of the itinerary if you book a tour. The boats are vibrantly decorated and take to the water beneath the falls for a really close-up shot. It was an amazing experience. The feeling of the cool water spraying my face was a welcome relief from the heat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Once the boat drops you off on the opposite side, it’s quite a steep climb up to get to the restaurants. I was lucky enough to get a table that overlooked the waterfall, and the view was incredible.

    I ate a three course meal that included a small salad with bread and olives, followed by a tagine and fruit for dessert. It was pleasant looking down on the boats and seeing people having fun in the water whilst eating my lunch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The meal cost around 150 dirhams. It was nothing spectacular, just a simple lunch in the most gorgeous of settings, but the portion was adequate.

    After lunch, I walked further up a steep incline,where a lot more monkeys were gathered waiting for tourists to feed them. I fed a few of them with some food given to me by our guide.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The final part of the walk took me past a few souvenir stalls and a shop selling drinks and ice cream. Eventually, I made it back to the car park where the journey began.

    The group was reunited with the driver, and then it was time to set off back to Marrakech. We stopped again for a toilet break midway through the journey, and it was early evening when I arrived back at the main square.

    In my opinion, the trip to Ouzoud was definitely worth the six hours of travelling.

    The highlight for me was sitting above the waterfall  eating my lunch and looking at the spectacular view. The monkeys were also very amusing.

    There is a fair amount of walking in the heat, and some of it is steep, but I was able to take my time, and the guide was really patient and kind. The walk was worth every moment to see the waterfall from all its vantage points.

    Some people in the group who were struggling went up on Donkeys, so that’s an option if you have limited mobility.

    I booked my trip with Get Your Guide and found it good value for money for such a great day out. It included the journey in an air-conditioned vehicle, the tour, and the boat ride. The lunch was separate. Your accommodation can also organise a trip to Ouzoud for you.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • Riad Hikaya.

    A riad in the Kasbah district.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya was purchased by an Englishman who spent 15 years restoring it. It is a gorgeous riad situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech. The work that has gone into reviving it is evident as soon as you walk through the door. Everything is handmade. The skilled craftsmanship used to create each piece of the furniture and hand paint the doors is exceptional. Some of  the rooms even have large copper bathtubs.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya is not budget accommodation. However, considering the aesthetics and the professionalism of the staff, it’s worth paying slightly more to stay here.

    The breakfasts are really good and I ate dinner here one evening. I had a three course meal, and it was freshly cooked. I sat at the edge of the pool to eat, admiring the large Moroccan lampshade hanging in the centre.

    There is a rooftop terrace with places to sit in the shade and sunbeds to soak up some hot, morroccan sun. It is a lovely space to relax with colourful couches and little pomegranate trees in pots. There are views of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is an authentic side of Marrakech. There are fewer tourists, and the locals are friendly. There are plenty of good restaurants, including The Clock, located across the road from Riad Hikaya. There are a number of shops and popular attractions such as El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs. It is an easy 20-minute walk to the main square from the Kasbah.

    If you want to disconnect from the busy touristic areas, staying this side of the medina is the perfect retreat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed at Riad Hikaya in the winter. Inside,the rooms were warm and cosy, and I felt comfortable throughout my stay. It was quiet and a change from the hectic rhythm of the medina.

    I enjoyed my winter break at Riad Hikaya and would definitely return again. The staff were kind and always available if I required anything. The riad is visually appealing, and it’s obvious that it’s been a labour of love.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)

  • Moroccan Berber Rugs.

    A look at how Berber rugs are made.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.

    They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains. Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.

    Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations.  To create them natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel are used. Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process. To create a single rug takes around one to two months, with four weavers working on one rug at a time.

    There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug.

    1. Shearing the Sheep

    Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife. The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip. The wool is then sorted and cleaned. It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection. The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.

    2. Carding.


    Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn. To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction. Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable. The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture. Women are responsible for this process.

    3. Spinning the wool into yarn.


    To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle. This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom. The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands. As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.

    4. Weaving the rug.

    The village women are responsible for weaving the rugs. Weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns. This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is durable and will last for many years.The process begins by the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits. This gives the rugs their characteristic colours. Once the yarn has been dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rugs design. The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom. The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads. Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is now finished.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task. The women of the village who weaved them rarely get anything near the price they’re eventually sold for. Their husbands load the rugs onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer. The buyer gives him a fraction of their value.

    Efforts are being made to make sure that ethical practices are being implemented. Many organizations now work directly with Berber artisans to eliminate middlemen, ensuring women receive fair payment for their work. More women are forming cooperatives to manage the entire process, increasing their income.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe. They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime. It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug. There are a few scams, so be mindful. Before you get taken to a shop where you’re promised the best quality and price, do your research.

    Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you. This is their address, Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco.

    Dar Bouchaib in the Kasbah is a fixed price store that also ships rugs worldwide and has a huge selection.

    To find out more about the history of Berber rugs, there is a carpet museum in the souks called The Maison Culturelle du Tapis. It’s worth visiting to learn more about how they’re made. They also have some beautiful vintage rugs on display.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
    (more…)