Tag: Berber

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • Dar Bouchaib.

    A fixed price store selling everything in the Kasbah

    If you are fed up with haggling every time you want to buy something, there is a huge store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.

    Here, you will find everything  that’s for sale in the souks at a fixed price.

    The perfumed oils are of a very high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several oils together.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    On the first floor, exquisite furniture, mirrors, Berber rugs, and other beautiful handmade pieces to furnish your home with.

    They also ship worldwide.

    The staff are incredibly helpful and not pushy at all.

    The store is huge and worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship and detail that’s gone into creating each piece.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is a 15 – to 20-minute walk from the main square with plenty of interesting shops and good restaurants along the way.

    Here, you will find the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.

    Dar Bouchaib can be found on;

    Rue de La Kasbah,

    Marrakech 40000.

    Opening times are;

    Daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm.

    Bank holiday hours may differ.

    Although part of visiting Marrakech is to enjoy shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling and knowing how much you should be paying for something can become slightly stressful.

    Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof.

    The prices are fixed and realistic.

    Make it part of your visit to the Kasbah area.

    You won’t be disappointed.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information, see my other posts or contact me via the email address below..

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  • Shopping In The Marrakech Medina.

    Browsing around the busy souks in the medina is an exciting experience.

    Berber jewellery in the souks.

    There is everything that you could possibly dream of.

    As you meander through the maze of colourful alleyways, be prepared for a complete assault on the senses.

    From beautiful jewellery to exotic spices, leather shoes and bags, to Morroccan lamps and ceramics.

    Traditional Morroccan Babouches.

    The craftsmanship is astonishing, and you can find areas that are dedicated to certain products, such as leather goods and handmade Berber rugs or cushion covers.

    It’s a lovely experience watching the locals making their goods to sell, and there is also the opportunity to have a go at making things yourself, such as a pair of babouche shoes to take home.

    Berber rugs are beautifully displayed, and the assortment of colours and patterns are a feast for the eyes.

    Argan oil and morroccan black soap, orange blossom oil, and gardenia float on the gentle breeze.

    Oils and perfumes for sale in the souks.

    Wooden boxes ornately decorated with mother of pearl, chess sets, and traditional toys tempt you for the perfect souvenir to take back for family and friends.

    Then there’s the nuts, sweets, and pastries.

    Traditional sweets for sale in the souks.

    The olives and exotic fruits.

    The medicinal herbs and spices, a cacophony of colours and fragrances.

    Paintings and prints of traditional Morroccan doors and Berber people.

    Hand painted pictures for sale.

    For the person who loves shopping, Marrakech is an absolute delight.

    The souks are crowded and busy.

    You have to dodge motorcycles and donkeys, vendors with carts, and tourists looking for the perfect gift.

    You can expect to get lost, but that’s all part of the experience.

    No one went into the souks and was never heard from again…

    So, if you’re coming to Marrakech for the vibrant abundance of enticing goods on sale around the medina, fully immerse yourself in the experience and enjoy every minute.

    It’s an unforgettable experience, one which will envoke the spirit of camel caravans and ancient trade routes from centuries ago.

    A few helpful tips to make the most of your shopping experience:

    Pace yourself.

    The souks are very busy with motorcycles, donkeys, and tourists. It can feel slightly chaotic at times, especially in the heat.

    Stop for a drink and rehydrate.

    Rest for a while, try a spot of lunch on the rooftop of a cafe.

    Be prepared to haggle. It may seem daunting at first, but you’ll soon get the hang of it.

    Stay vigilant, and keep your wits about you.

    Marrakech is a safe city, but pick pocketing can happen just like anywhere else in the world.

    In crowded, narrow streets, keep your possessions safe in a closed bag at the front of your body.

    If you’re lost, try to use Google maps or look for signs above your head pointing you back to Jamaa El Fna.

    If you need help or advice, ask a shop vendor or try calling the riad you are staying in.

    They may offer to collect you.

    Don’t be tempted to accept directions from locals who may lead you to a friend or family members’ shop so they can get commission.

    You may struggle to get away, and you may find yourself seated and drinking mint tea before you know it.

    Colourful spice drums in the medina.

    Take time to shop around and walk away if you don’t think you’re being offered a fair price.

    You will usually find yourself being called back, and a good price reached.

    If not, the same items will most likely be found on sale elsewhere in the souks.

    Exercise patience.

    Remember, this is someone’s livelihood, and it’s a different culture to what you may be used to.

    Wages are not very high for most people in Marrakesh, and tourists with money to spend are fair game for boosting the take-home salary of most vendors.

    After all, they too have mouths to feed..

    Although the souks can be overwhelming, they are an unforgettable shopping experience.

    You will be dazzled by the vast number of weird and wonderful items on display.

    The sights, sounds, and smells will stay with you a long time after you leave this fascinating city.

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  • TRADITIONAL BERBER RUGS

    A look at how Berber rugs are made.

    A woman weaving a Berber rug.

    Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.

    They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.

    Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness depending on which tribe has made it, so that they are suitable for the environment where they are used.

    For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.

    They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.

    Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.

    To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.

    Here are the steps taken to make a beautiful Berber rug.

    1. Shearing the Sheep

    Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife. The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip. The wool is then sorted and cleaned.

    It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.

    The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.

    2. Carding
    Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn.
    To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction. This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction. Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn.
    Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable. The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.

    The women are often responsible for this process.

    3. Spinning into Yarn

    To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use a drop spindle.

    This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom. The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the woman’s hands. As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.

    4. Weaving the Berber Rug

    The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.

    This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last many years.
    The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.

    The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.

    Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into the rug using a loom.

    The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design.

    The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.

    The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.

    The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.

    Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.

    Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.

    It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.

    There are a few scams, so be aware before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local.

    Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.

    This is their address..

    Bennahid #40 Derb Zaouiat Lahdar, Marrakesh 40030, Morocco

    Beautiful Berber rugs.

    For more information or help with planning the perfect itinerary, please contact me using the email address below.

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  • THE HISTORY OF MARRAKECH

    A brief glimpse into the history of the red city.

    The magnificent Koutoubia Mosque.

    Marrakech has been inhabited for over 1000 years. The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.

    Morocco took its name from Marrakech, the Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.

    During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.

    They constructed an  underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.

    They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.

    His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.

    He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.

    It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.

    In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.

    They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque.

    They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.

    They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.

    They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.

    This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.

    The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.

    In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.

    They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne .

    Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but they much preferred the city of Fez, and so consequently, Marrakech was about to go into serious decline.

    Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.

    Because of this move,  Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected. The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.

    From 1578-1603, the Saadian  sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power, restoring the city to its former glory and establishing Marrakech as its capital city.

    They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.

    Saadian tombs/image Freebird Tracey
    El Badi Palace/images Freebird Tracey.

    They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.

    The Saads built Bab Doukkala 1557-1571 mosque and Mouassine mosque 1562-72.

    They also built Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.

    Madrasa Ben Youssef/images Freebird Tracey.

    In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.

    The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries. They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.

    They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.

    They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, developing it’s infrastructure.

    It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.

    Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.

    Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.

    The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.

    They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.

    In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.

    Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.

    It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.

    In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.

    It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.

    Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.

    Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.

    As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.

    Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating. It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..

    Gueliz area in Marrakech/images Freebird Tracey.

    For further information or advice on planning the perfect itinerary, get in touch using the contact details below..

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  • THE AMAZIGH CULTURE

    A brief history of the indigenous people of North Africa.

    An Amazigh Woman displaying her Headdress.

    The Berbers, also known as the Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.

    They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.

    This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.

    The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.

    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers. During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and  throwing their society into chaos.

    The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance. 

    Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.

    The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.

    The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’

    Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.

    A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.

    You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.

    This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.

    The Souks sell beautiful Berber jewellery and rugs made by the Berber ladies.

    Images Freebird Tracey.

    See my separate post on Berber rugs.

    Beautiful Amazigh Women.

    For more information contact

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  • THE MAJORELLE GARDENS

    The stunning botanical gardens in Marrakech.

    Lilypads and Koi Carp at Majorelle Garden.

    Inside the beautiful Majorelle Garden, there are over 300 stunning plant species from all over the world.

    Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees amongst a labyrinth of pathways.

    The incredibly tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species coexist together to create one of the most beautiful gardens in marrakech.

    Two acres of botanical landscape gardens.

    Originally designed by Jean Majorelle in the 1920s.

    After he was forced to abandon his home because of divorce, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development in 1980.

    They restored it and made it their home, bringing the garden back to it’s former glory.

    For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent

    There is a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge in the garden. 

    Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it a less than tranquil place to sit and reflect.

    I would have loved to have sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation, admiring the pop of colour from the bougainvillea, but I was never alone for very long.

    The attractive art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place for visitors to get their photographs taken.

    The colourful pavilion
    The exotic blue and Islamic green tiles.

    There is also a cafe and shop.

    I purchased some postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ yearly ‘Love’ drawings.

    I didn’t go to the cafe because there were too many people and the queues were really long.

    Yves Saint Laurent early ‘Love’ drawings

    The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm.

    I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am, preferably at opening time if you want a more peaceful experience.

    Luckily, I had prebooked online, so I didn’t have to queue.

    I’m thankful that I did because the queues were really long, and it was a very hot day for standing around without any shade.

    The YSL museum is also part of the visit, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a look around if you are interested in Berber history. 

    Opening times are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.

    You can’t take photographs inside the museum.

    The price varies depending on where you purchase tickets from but you can expect to pay approximately €24 to visit everything.

    There are plenty of nice restaurants outside the gardens, and I decided to get something to eat and drink in one of those. It was much quieter.

    I recommend My Kawa for a nice salad.

    There are a few shops across the road from Majorelle Garden selling souvenirs and a few attractive boutiques.

    Shopping around Majorelle Garden

    Stuff was a bit pricey, but I picked up some nice jasmine oil at a fairly decent price.

    Overall, Majorelle Garden was absolutely beautiful. It is  colourful and lush with several spots to sit and absorb the exotic sights and sounds.

    However, it is incredibly busy with tourists, which detracts from the calm sense of serenity you’d expect to get from such a delightful setting.

    It was worth visiting for the wonderful trees and plants and to get some great photos, but unless you go very early during the quiet season, you won’t get a peaceful, relaxing vibe..

    Majorelle Garden is located to the north west of Marrakech medina.

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  • MOROCCAN MINT TEA

    Mint tea is practically a ritual in Marrakesh.

    The traditional way of welcoming guests.
    A woman pours tea at an argan cooperative

    After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive in your riad slightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.

    The owner of the riad gives you the warmest welcome with the biggest smile across his face as he guides you into the beautiful courtyard.

    As you sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water in the fountain and smell the scent of the blossom on the trees, slowly you begin to unwind.

    The owner reappears with an ornate teapot and colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. He begins pouring the fresh mint tea, holding the teapot higher and higher as he pours.

    You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.

    The aroma from the fresh mint leaves is wonderful..

    You begin to feel refreshed as the fragrant scent fills the air.

    This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.

    The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.

    It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.

    After you have drank your tea sweetened with sugar cubes and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic…

    A refreshing cup of mint tea

    Mint tea is everywhere in Marrakech.

    It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit in cafes chatting with their friends.

    The name for mint tea is ‘atay’ in Moroccan darija

    It is known by the locals as  ‘Morroccan Whisky’

    The tea is made using green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is already sweetened with sugar before serving.

    If you find it a bit too sweet, try it before adding sugar cubes.

    Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, alongside other herbs and spices, and the aromatic aroma tempts the tastebuds.

    You can purchase the little tea glasses in the souks, and they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.

    Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate.

    A traditional Morroccan welcome.

    Sipping mint tea and overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a very enjoyable experience in Marrakech.

    One you will remember for years to come..

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  • JOIN ME ON A FASCINATING JOURNEY AROUND MARRAKECH

    An introduction to the red city of Marrakech in North Africa.

    If Africa is a peacock, Morocco is its tail

    Welcome to my blog featuring everything you need to know about Marrakech.

    I include my own personal stories, experiences, and adventures, giving an authentic insight into the red city of Marrakech.

    My name is Freebird Tracey, and I’ve been a regular visitor to Marrakech for many years.

    As a solo female traveller, I have always felt safe travelling around Marrakech. The friendly locals treat me with respect wherever I go, always helpful and always with a smile.

    I believe I have found my happy place in the sunshine amongst the fragrance of orange blossom, the vibrant colours, and the magical sounds of Jamaa El Fna.

    Marrakech is a diverse and magical city, steeped in history. 

    From its beautiful Islamic architecture to the culinary delights and fine craftsmanship on display, there is something to tempt the senses on every corner.

    I never get tired of exploring this alluring, magnetising corner of our planet.

    There is always something new to see, and it’s full of little surprises.

    Marrakech is an assault on the senses..

    Allow me to take you on a fascinating journey to North Africa and show you how to make the most of your time in Marrakech.

    I will share interesting articles and suggest the best places to eat, including vegetarian and vegan options.

    I will tell you where to find cool bars that serve alcohol with live music.

    If you’re interested in activities, excursions, or day trips, I will share some of my own personal experiences with you.

    I will give you truthful  opinions, honest reviews, and provide helpful suggestions to get the most out of your visit.

    I share tips on how to stay safe and what to do to make sure you have the best experience whilst visiting Marrakech.

    This is a tell-all blog at your fingertips..

    So, buckle up and join me on a mind-blowing trip of a lifetime.

    Let me introduce you to the sights, sounds, and tastes of the red city. 

    All beautifully entwined with each other,creating what can only be described as a little piece of heaven here on earth..

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