The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: Jamaa El Fna

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • Staying In A Traditional Riad.

    How To Immerse yourself in the culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you want a taste of  authentic Moroccan life,  spending time in a riad will give you one. From the outside, riads appear unassuming. This is because in Islam, people do not like to display their wealth. Homes are discreetly hidden behind red clay walls. This prevents poor people from focusing on their hardship because in the eyes of God, everyone is equal.

    Entering a riad is like finding yourself in a different world altogether. Most visitors are speechless once they walk through the large wooden door. Having found their way through the dark, narrow alleyways, seeing the glorious vision that appears before them is worth the effort.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riads are the homes once owned by the well-to-do of Marrakech.Whole families lived inside them. They offered a private, secluded space, especially for the women of the family. Traditionally, riads are built around a central courtyard with the windows facing inwards. Many courtyards have citrus and palm trees in the centre, reaching up through the open rooftop. There is often a small ornate pool for cooling off in, and many still have their original fountains.

    The rooftop can be reached by climbing steep tiled steps. Here, you are greeted by  colourful seating in the shade where you can escape from the heat. Rooftop gardens are home to lush foliage where you can relax and admire the views over the medina. You can see the snowcapped Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The interior rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber artefacts. These include colourful Berber rugs, cushions, and handcrafted furniture. It’s a cacophony of vibrant colours. A heady fragrance of orange blossom promotes an inviting, cosy feeling inside the walls of the riad.

    Many riads around the medina have been purchased by Westerners. They have been restored and revived to appeal to the ever growing influx of tourists. Some of them still have their original zellige tilework. Staying in one of these is like being immersed in a tale from ‘1001 nights’. The latticed windows tell the story of  past harems. These kept the women of the household secluded and private

    High-end riads have become grand and luxurious. They offer a spa like experience with a hammam and massage service. Some of these were once former palaces.

    Rooms in a riad are notably dark inside. This keeps them cool in summer when temperatures can exceed 47° celsius. There is air conditioning in most riads. Extra thick blankets are available during the winter months.

    Staying in a traditional riad is an experience. Waking up to the sound of birds singing in the trees and water burbling from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day. The early morning sunshine reflecting off the tiled floors puts you in a happy mood.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Most riads cook delicious home cooked food for their guests. Many of them also offer cooking lessons. You are taught how to make traditional Morroccan food. They also provide their guests with a hearty breakfast. This is sweeter than we are used to in the west. Traditional msemen pancakes with amlou are my favourite.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The atmosphere inside a riad is tranquil. On the rooftop, you will hear the mystical call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque. If you’re staying near Jamaa El Fna, you can hear the gnawa musicians and the drumming in the distance. In the evening, as you watch the sunset, you are overcome with a feeling of inner peace and stillness. This calm, serenity is a far cry from what is happening outside the big wooden door of the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I like having what I call, ‘a riad experience.’ Enjoying the culture of Marrakech like a  local. Whether it’s a former palace or a  small family owned riad. Staying in a riad is the perfect introduction to the history and culture of Marrakech. It’s an intimate experience. The staff are friendly and helpful. They can organise tours and activities for you. Most riads I have stayed in have felt as though I was staying with a family. It’s a blissful experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Things To Know Before Visiting Marrakech.

    Helpful advice for first-time visitors.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I’ve put together a few useful tips to help your trip run smoothly.

    Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment. In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.There are plenty of 🏧 machines located around the city. I use the one outside the post office where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank. The exchange rate is good, and it is always working.

    You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great. There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city. It’s advisable to carry a small amount of cash with you for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.

    Ask for your accommodation to organise a taxi when you arrive in Marrakech. The cost goes onto your final bill when you check out, and you won’t have to worry about exchanging money in the airport.

    You will probably need a SIM card. I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me. This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived in Marrakech. Having data gave me reassurance as a solo female traveller.I could use Google maps to find my way around the medina, which was helpful if I got lost. It’s worth noting that Google Maps may not work in some of the denser areas of the souks, though.

    Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually very good, so it’s nice to be nice. I leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.

    Allegedly, you can drink the tap water in Marrakech, but I  wouldn’t recommend it. Some tourists use a GRAYL water bottle, which takes out the bad stuff, but it doesn’t change the taste of the water. I prefer to air on the side of caution. There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also stock some.

    Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca. However, Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up. They are well maintained and it’s a peaceful environment to spend some time relaxing.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening time for the best experience. Places like Bacha Coffee can have up to 2 hours waiting time to be seated, so come early and join the queue outside before they open. The same applies to Bahia Palace and the Madrasa Ben Youseff. If you want the perfect photo opportunity, get there early. Shopping in the souks early in the morning is more favourable. They are less crammed with tourists, and you avoid the mid afternoon heat.

    Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal. However,out of respect for the culture, it’s considered appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places. Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience. In clubs around the Gueliz area of the city, it’s  acceptable to wear flimsier clothing.

    Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists. There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as La Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar. Gueliz and Hivenage is the newer part of the city with plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcohol and lively entertainment. It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.

    If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market called Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex. The prices are slightly higher but you can buy beautifully handcrafted items without having to bargain for them. There is also a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.

    People in Marrakesh are often camera shy. It’s best not to take photographs of them unless they specifically say you can. Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, though.

    Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco. Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture. The locals will love telling you all about their heritage.

    There are a few scams going on in the main square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a few dirhams. I haven’t had any problems, but just like anywhere else in the world, it can happen. Just be mindful and keep your wits about you so that you don’t fall prey to anything.

    Marrakech is a safe city. However, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas. Keep your personal items in front of you, and don’t carry large amounts of money around. Make use of a safe if there is one in your  accommodation or only take out enough money for each day.

    The Souks close at 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around the medina after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller. I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can still feel rather unnerving walking back to your riad through the dark alleyways late at night.

    I hope these nuggets of advice will help you to have the best experience possible during your visit to Marrakech.

    Happy Travels.

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  • Scams In Marrakech.

    A few tourist traps you should know about.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For first-time visitors to the red city, there are a few scams to be aware of.

    I have compiled a list of potential scams that you may encounter during your travels to Marrakech. These are simply opportunists trying to make a few dirhams from unsuspecting tourists who may be first-time visitors to the city. Once you become aware of these popular tricks, you will know how to avoid getting fleeced and what to do in the event of being approached by someone hoping to take advantage of you.

    1.

    The road is closed.

    This is a regular scam that can leave tourists confused.You’re trying to locate your riad or a point of interest, and someone (usually a young male) tells you that the road ahead is closed.He asks you your destination and offers to escort you via an alternative route.Before you know it, you’re wandering endlessly through the souks until you arrive at his friends shop.You’re still lost, and now you’re being offered mint tea whilst his friend brings out a multitude of exotic spices or rugs.The male who took you there gets a commission for safely delivering you there. Slightly more if you buy.

    If you’re approached in this way, a firm no thank you or La shoukran usually does the trick. If he is very persistent, head to a nearest trader, and ask their advice about whether the road is closed or not.Make your boundaries clear but remain polite and try not to get too impatient.It can be difficult if you’re tired or overwhelmed, but showing your weakness will only show how vulnerable you are feeling, and you may become a target for more opportunists.

    2.

    I can take you to your riad.

    When you first arrive in the medina, you are faced with a maze of alleyways and tunnels. Often, your riad will be tucked away inside the souks or down one of these alleyways, hidden from view. A tourist who looks as though they’re lost will invite the so-called ‘ helpful guide’ to your side who can show you exactly where you need to go. He will escort you, taking the long route to your riad, and then demand a payment from you.He may become quite persistent and insult you if you refuse to cough up.

    I was taken off guard seconds away from my riad. A young male basically nudged me along the narrow alleyway shoulder to shoulder. He demanded a payment, holding his hand out as I knocked on the door of my riad.I told him I wasn’t lost and knew where I was going and that I hadn’t requested his help. I stood my ground and ignored him until, eventually, the door opened, and I was let inside my riad.This can feel somewhat intimidating, but don’t give in. If you didn’t ask for help, you don’t need to give anyone any money.

    There are occasions when friendly locals really do want to genuinely help you find your way, and you will be grateful for their knowledge of the area,especially after a long flight.However, this is a common problem and can become irritating, to say the least, if you have luggage with you. Marrakech has a strong police presence, and all you need to do is remind pests about it. That often does the trick, and they soon back off.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    3.

    Over inflated prices for tourists.

    There is a price for the attractions around the medina for tourists and a price for Moroccan residents. This happens in many countries nowadays and you can’t protest much about it. On the other hand, prices for street food and things you might wish to purchase in the souks are often much higher than they should be. Learn to bargain with the vendors and try dropping the asked price to around 25% to begin with. Eventually, the pair of you will reach a price you’re both happy with.Haggling is an art form, and it takes time to feel confident, but it’s a way of life in Marrakesh and can be quite a rewarding experience when you manage to buy something for a fair price. If you’re not happy, shop around. There are plenty of places selling exactly the same goods around the souks. There is also a fixed price store called Dar Bouchaib in the kasbah and Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex near Cyber Park.

    4.

    Gambling games in Jamaa El Fna.

    During the evening, when the square comes to life, there are a few pockets of entertainment where gambling games take place. These are scams that involve winners working with the person in charge of the game.They impersonate curious onlookers and ask to take part. They obviously win, and a prize is exchanged. These are not genuine participants, and the likelihood of you winning a cash prize is virtually nil.

    5.

    Unofficial tour guides.

    Some tourists mentioned being approached by unofficial tour guides whilst visiting some of the attractions around the medina. Males who begin by asking where you’re from, then following you around telling you a brief history about attraction you’re visiting.After some time, they will ask you for a fee for their time and knowledge. If you want a genuine tour guide, check the website of the attraction you’re visiting or consider booking an activity through Get Your Guide or Booking.com, ayment is upfront, and the guides are registered and you also reserve the right to cancel. Your accommodation can also help you to book tours and activities.

    6.

    Overinflated taxi fares.

    A common scam that tourists mention is taxi drivers charging far too much. It’s a good idea to check with your accommodation how much you should be expected to pay and don’t accept the first price a driver offers you. Be prepared to bargain with him and try a different taxi driver if you’re still not happy. Grand taxis are shared taxis and much cheaper. If you are going further than Gueliz or back to the medina, consider a grand taxi instead. There is no Uber in Marrakech, and although they do have In Drive, you still have to bargain online with the driver, and more importantly, it’s actually illegal to use In Drive.

    I’ve covered all of the scams I’ve come across, but new ones may pop up as tourism continues to grow. Marrakech is an amazing destination with so much to see and do, and you may not experience any of the things I have mentioned.

    I have been incredibly lucky with taxi drivers. I have had positive experiences with and felt very safe whilst travelling back to my hotel in a remote area several times. The drivers have been very friendly and driven me straight through the gates so that I’ve not had to walk alone in the dark.

    As a rule, the locals in Marrakech are very friendly towards tourists, and they are  made to feel very welcome. However, poverty exists, and some people see tourists being much better off financially than they are and an easy target for extracting a few dirhams out of. My advice would be to make your boundaries clear from the beginning, get yourself some data by buying an Orange SIM for negotiating your way around the medina, and learn a few words of Arabic or French to help you to say no thank you.

    Like anywhere else in the world, keep your wits about you in crowded places, and try to stay patient, and you will have an incredible time in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Shopping In The Souks.

    A guide to stressfree shopping in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The sound of the souks is something you will never forget. There is everything you could dream of buying in the colourful bazaars around Marrakech medina. As you meander through the maze of winding alleyways, prepare yourself for a complete overload on the senses. You will be dazzled by everything from beautiful Amazigh jewellery to exotic spices, leather goods, Morroccan lamps, and pretty ceramics. It’s all there waiting for you  inside the vibrant souks.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Within each bustling area, skilled craftsmen are busy at work, and there are souks dedicated to creating and selling different items.There is an area for leather goods, a place where metal workers make Moroccan lamps and metal sculptures and areas where handmade wooden things are meticulously created. The art of rug weaving is demonstrated, and you may even get the chance to have a go.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s interesting watching the locals make their wares to sell and seeing silver and copper bangles being engraved with your Arabic name on them. There is also an opportunity to have a go at making a pair of traditional Morroccan shoes known as babouches.

    Berber rugs hang proudly around the medina. Each colour and pattern tells the story of the villagers who worked tirelessly to create them in the Atlas mountains.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    You will find argan oil and morroccan black soap, orange blossom oil, and gardenia.The subtle fragrance floats past you, only shattered by the fumes of motorcycles as they drive through. It’s a heady combination of spices, incense, and day to day life in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Wooden boxes ornately decorated with mother of pearl,chess sets, cuddly toys, and traditional teapots tempt you as you search the souks for  souvenirs. You learn the art of haggling for the best prices.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cushion covers made from cactus silk are eye-catching. The only problem is choosing your favourite colours, patterns, and textures and wandering how you’ll fit them into your luggage.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Moroccan sweets are a delicacy. You’ll find yourself spoilt for choice with the amount of nuts and pastries for sale around the medina.

    The medicinal herbs and spices are a cacophony of colours and fragrances. You draw closer to look, and a friendly vendor sticks a piece of eucalyptus under your nose. Before you know it, your eyes are watering, and you’re reaching for a tissue.

    Fresh olives pop with colour. Their subtle spice dances on your tongue, and you have to buy some because they’re addictive. One or two is never enough to satisfy.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Paintings of Morroccan doors, Amazigh people and camels crossing the Sahara desert are displayed on walls  and hang strategically outside shop doorways.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For people who love to shop until they drop, the souks are a dream come true. The lively rhythm and friendly banter  is a magical experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not always a breeze shopping in such a densely packed area, though. The souks get incredibly busy with tourists. You constantly have to dodge motorcycles, donkeys, and vendors with carts. You will probably get lost, but that’s all part of the charm. You eventually find your way out with some effort.

    I recommend fully immersing yourself in the experience and enjoying every moment. It will invoke in you the spirit of camel caravans and their ancient trade routes from centuries ago. After all, the souks are one of the main reasons tourists come to Marrakech. Shopping in them is the perfect way to delve into the fascinating culture of Marrakech and pick up a few treasures along the way.

    Here are a few helpful tips to help you enjoy your shopping experience in the souks.

    • First of all, pace yourself. The souks are very busy and can feel slightly chaotic at times, especially in the heat. Stop regularly for a drink and rehydrate. Rest for a while, and have a spot of lunch on a rooftop terrace. There are plenty inside the souks.
    • Be prepared to haggle. It may seem daunting at first, but you’ll soon get the hang of it. In Morocco, bargaining is a way of life, and although it can get frustrating wondering if you’re being ripped off, it’s also rather gratifying if you manage to procure something at a good price. Take time to shop around and walk away if you don’t think you’re being offered a fair price. You will often find yourself being called back, and a realistic price can be reached. If not, the same items will most likely be found for sale in another part of the souks.
    • Stay vigilant, and keep your wits about you. Marrakech is a safe city, but pick pocketing can happen like anywhere else in the world. In crowded, narrow streets, keep your possessions safe in a closed bag at the front of your body. Don’t be tempted to take out too much cash at once and leave your passport in a safe wherever possible.
    • If you’re lost, look for signs above your head pointing you back to Jamaa El Fna. Having an orange sim is useful but may not always work in the denser parts of the souks. If you need help, ask a shop vendor. They’re more than happy to help, but be aware of opportunists who may try to send you in a different direction.
    • This brings me to don’t accept directions from locals who may lead you to a friend or family members’ shop. They get a commission if you buy something. You may find yourself seated, drinking mint tea, and before you know it, there’s a mountain of Berber carpets at your feet.
    • Exercise patience. Remember, this is someone’s livelihood, and it’s a different culture to what you may be used to. Wages are not very high for most people in Marrakesh, and tourists with money to spend are fair game for boosting the take-home salary of most vendors. Marrakech was badly affected by the earthquake in 2023, and people’s livelihoods suffered as a result.
    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although the souks may often feel overwhelming, they are an unforgettable shopping experience in Marrakech.  The cacophony of colours,  pulsating energy, and bustling atmosphere will stay with you for a long time.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Herboristerie Reda

    A small apothecary in the souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is nothing better than taking the fragrance of Marrakech home with you. For me, it’s a way to relive  the happy experiences of my time there.

    You can find plenty of places in the souks that sell argan oil, perfumes, shampoos, and body wash. The heady fragrance of orange blossom, oud, and jasmine oil entices you to buy something. It’s a constant reminder of your fragrant riad. However, not all argan oil  for sale in the souks will be genuine. There are inferior quality products sold at high prices, so you need to be mindful.

    Argan oil cooperatives are the best places for buying genuine products. However, if you don’t get an opportunity to visit them, where should you go?

    Herboristerie Reda stocks everything, including Argan oil, and the quality of their products is very good. I have purchased many of their perfumed body oils. The products are genuine and reasonably priced.

    The address is 48.Derb Sidi, Boulfdail.Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I spent a lot of time testing the oils to see which ones I liked, and I didn’t feel pressured into buying anything. The woman in the shop was called Hanane, and she was helpful and kind. She speaks several languages, and it was a lovely human experience meeting her.

    They stock a large selection of products, including soap, fragrant body creams, perfumed oils, and products for use in a hammam. You can also purchase herbs and spices, including Saffron. They have herbal teas and medicinal ointments. It’s a little apothecary in the souks.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The shop front is used to advertise an annual Gourd Festival. It’s decorated in striking colours with gourds and garlands hanging in the entrance.

    I have bought oils from other retailers in the souks, but it’s not long before the fragrance wears off. The oils from Herboristerie Reda last ages on the  skin and smell amazing.

    Herboristerie Reda is open from 9.00 am until 10.00pm every day.

    This will be my go-to shop for fragrant gardenia and other essential oils from now on. It’s a treasure trove of magic potions in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Jamaa El Fna At Sunset.

    Experience the heartbeat of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you think that Jamaa El Fna  is a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set. Gone are the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, to be replaced by open-air restaurants, gnawa musicians, gambling, and exotic dancers.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The scene is organised chaos and a complete sensory overload. The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted. The drumming becomes intense as the main square takes on the image of a huge fair ground.

    Thousands of people from all over the city and beyond come together to meet each other, alongside tourists all vying for space to watch the spectacle unfold. The exciting atmosphere is electric and pulsates with energy.

    Street vendors looking for potential customers pursue you with menus as you try to navigate your way through the crowds. They hop in front of you, and you have to dodge them like you are taking part in some sort of assault course.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    The aroma from camel heads cooking on a spit drifts across the square, and fresh snails being plucked from their shells becomes a familiar sight.

    Although the scene is very intense, it is also magnetic and exciting. I love the energy in Jamaa El Fna after dusk, but some people find it too overwhelming. They prefer to sit at the edge of the square, away from the crowds, and watch everything from a safe distance with a drink.

    Jamaa El Fnaa at dusk is unlike anything else you may have experienced. There is so much to see.There are games being played, and a few little scams are taking place to try and trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around the cafe de France, chatting with each other over coffee. Families wander around the stalls that are brightly lit up and open until late. Young men enjoy kicking a football against the walls of the medina, and couples sit on benches chatting to each other in the warm evening air.

    Sugarcane and fruit juice are sold by lively vendors, and the banter is all done in high spirits. Tourists dine on rooftop terraces as the Koutoubia mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes electrifying.The square is transformed into a social hub where anything is possible and everything appears to take place at the same time. It’s an incredible experience.

    Dazzling bright lights from the open air food vendors and Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets give off a warm, inviting glow. The heady fragrance from incense cones competes with the smell of food cooking, each wafting through the air on a gentle breeze.

    Henna ladies sit waiting for unsuspecting tourists and then grab their arms in an attempt to sell them a tattoo. They tell you,”It’s a gift,” but don’t you dare to walk away without paying once they’ve applied it.

    You can hear the sound of the gnawa musicians playing dressed in their brightly coloured clothing, belly dancers perform, and acrobats show off their skills to the gathering crowd of curious onlookers, you can’t escape the mayhem. After all, the famous Jamaa El Fnaa is the heartbeat of the city, and it draws you in because it’s a special place and there’s nowhere else quite like it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Jamaa El Fna magnetises you. The chaos that surrounds you is an assault on the senses. It’s an experience, an education, and a head-first dive into the rich culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although there’s so much going on after dusk, please be mindful when stopping to take photos. Someone in the thick of the action will be eagle eyed enough to catch you. They are continuously on the lookout for tourists who have stopped to watch. They will pounce upon you from out of nowhere, with a cap in their hand expecting a donation.

    After sunset, it’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play in Jamaa El Fna, and they are determined to have a good time. It’s a sight to behold, lively, energetic, colourful, aromatic, and incredibly loud. Be sure to visit this remarkable place and witness what it is that makes Marrakech so magical. It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid any obvious scams.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Monriad.

    A peaceful riad in the heart of the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed at Monriad. This is where my love affair with Marrakech began.

    Staying in a traditional riad had been a passion of mine for a long time, but I had no idea what to expect. The experience exceeded all of my expectations. Since then, I have never stayed in any other type of accommodation in Marrakech.

    Monriad was delightful. The courtyard was very peaceful, with the sound of gently trickling water and desert sparrows singing. It was blissful. After a long flight and queues at the airport, I began to relax straight away.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The owner greeted me with a friendly smile and offered me mint tea with olives. She  gave me a map of the medina and showed me around the riad. I was offered the opportunity to have my evening meal in the riad, but I was eager to get out and explore the souks.

    I returned later to spend time on the rooftop terrace. The rooftop was lovely with flora and fauna in attractive pots, sunbeds, and colourful seating. Watching the sunrise  every morning was a lovely way to begin each day. The views were incredible.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    Captured by Freebird Tracey.

    My room in the  riad was spotlessly clean. It was colourfully furnished with handmade Morroccan furniture. I had a private bathroom with a decent shower and a pretty ceramic basin. The whole riad smelt of orange blossom, a fragrance I now associate with Marrakech.

    There was an intricately carved wooden door to enter the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem. The staff were always available to answer the door.

    I ate dinner once inside the riad, and the food was good. I had tagine in the peaceful courtyard. The breakfast was typically Moroccan and a hearty start to the day.

    Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street in a safe area of the medina. Several cats and kittens have also made the surrounding streets their home. This is something you will notice a lot in Marrakech.

    There are plenty of shops and restaurants like the popular jazz bar La Bistro Arabe and Dardar rooftop Restaurant a short distance away. The vegetarian restaurant La Famille is a two minute walk from the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace and Tinsmiths Square. Despite this, it feels peaceful and secluded. Monriad is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained its original charm. The riad has a welcoming atmosphere, and the staff are warm and friendly.

    My mission is to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh. However, I would definitely consider staying here again. The location is unbeatable, especially for solo female travellers.

    The address for Monriad is, N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, RiadZitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riad Persephone.

    A riad overlooking Jemaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Persephone is a large riad located close to Jamaa El Fna. It has a cobalt blue courtyard with lush green plants and a large swimming pool. The colour of the walls is similar to the colour of Le Jardin Marjorelle. It looks beautiful against the foliage and zellige tiles.

    There is a large rooftop with plenty of seating areas and a warm jacuzzi for guests to use. It looks pretty in the evening with all the lamps lit. The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the sounds of everything happening there until late at night.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    My room was on the rooftop. It was decorated in a saffron colour with decorative mirrors and a small private courtyard. The stained glass windows are a feature in riad Persephone. The boho decor is flattering.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For some, the close proximity to the main square may be perfect. However, if you’re a light sleeper, you may find the early morning call to pray loud. The noise from the square may be problematic late at night. The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning. I would recommend taking ear plugs, especially if you have a room on the rooftop terrace.

    Riad Persephone has a rustic charm and has maintained its character. It also has a sister riad further away in the medina called Riad Roxanne.

    Riad Persephone is popular due to its strategic location and the view of Jamaa El Fnaa. It is close to plenty of restaurants, including Le Salama, L’Mdina, and Le Marrakchi. The staff at the riad can  organise activities, such as quad biking and a visit to Agafay desert. There is also a hammam with a massage service.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    If you’re looking for a riad with attractive surroundings close to all the action, Riad Persephone is perfect. On the other hand, if you prefer a quiet, relaxing atmosphere on the rooftop, this riad may not be the best choice. The constant hustle and bustle overrides the peaceful serenity.

    Overall, Riad Persephone is aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. The pool is nice, and the warm jacuzzi is popular with guests. I enjoyed the breakfast it was a typical Moroccan breakfast and very substantial. The location is good and easy to find.

    It is a large riad with a lot of steps up to the rooftop terrace, so it may not be ideal  for people with mobility issues.

    The address for Riad Persephone is 17 Derb Zaari. Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Riad Hikaya.

    A riad in the Kasbah district.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya was purchased by an Englishman who spent 15 years restoring it. It is a gorgeous riad situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech. The work that has gone into reviving it is evident as soon as you walk through the door. Everything is handmade. The skilled craftsmanship used to create each piece of the furniture and hand paint the doors is exceptional. Some of  the rooms even have large copper bathtubs.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya is not budget accommodation. However, considering the aesthetics and the professionalism of the staff, it’s worth paying slightly more to stay here.

    The breakfasts are really good and I ate dinner here one evening. I had a three course meal, and it was freshly cooked. I sat at the edge of the pool to eat, admiring the large Moroccan lampshade hanging in the centre.

    There is a rooftop terrace with places to sit in the shade and sunbeds to soak up some hot, morroccan sun. It is a lovely space to relax with colourful couches and little pomegranate trees in pots. There are views of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is an authentic side of Marrakech. There are fewer tourists, and the locals are friendly. There are plenty of good restaurants, including The Clock, located across the road from Riad Hikaya. There are a number of shops and popular attractions such as El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs. It is an easy 20-minute walk to the main square from the Kasbah.

    If you want to disconnect from the busy touristic areas, staying this side of the medina is the perfect retreat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed at Riad Hikaya in the winter. Inside,the rooms were warm and cosy, and I felt comfortable throughout my stay. It was quiet and a change from the hectic rhythm of the medina.

    I enjoyed my winter break at Riad Hikaya and would definitely return again. The staff were kind and always available if I required anything. The riad is visually appealing, and it’s obvious that it’s been a labour of love.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Riad Blue Berber

    An authentic 17th-century riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Blue Berber is an authentic riad in a strategic location. It is close to the Bahia Palace, Dardar rooftop bar, La Pegola, and Tinsmiths Square. It is situated on a quieter side of the medina central to many popular sightseeing spots.

    Riad Blue Berber has a very pretty courtyard. The floor is the original floor dating back to the 17th century. There is an intimate feel about this riad because it’s smaller. The rooms are quite dark inside, but that adds to its authenticity.

    The owner, Habi, is a very knowledgeable man who enjoys chatting with his guests. He is very hospitable, and the riad has a homely family feel about it.

    Mona, the cook doesn’t speak English, but she prepares a hearty breakfast for the guests each morning. She manages to interact well despite the language barrier.

    The rooftop is large with different tiers and great views over the medina. It was being modernised during my stay.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Blue Berber is a cosy riad that has character and charm. Waking up to the sound of birds chirping in the courtyard was a lovely way to begin each day.

    There are four rooms. Three of the rooms have air conditioning, and the other two have fans and heaters. The riad is clean and humble, offering an authentic experience of riad life.

    I liked this side of the medina. I always felt safe walking to and from the riad even at night time. There’s always plenty going on. It’s perfect for solo female travellers. It is located 200 metres from the lively Jamaa El Fna, yet inside, it is peaceful and calm.

    The address is 5 Derb Jdid, Riad Zitoun Lakdim, kadim، 40040 Morocco.

    The riad can organise tours and cooking classes are available to teach you how to create a traditional tagine.

    I had a pleasant time at Riad Blue Berber. It’s a traditional riad, and I liked the location. The staff were happy to look after my luggage after I had checked out. It’s small details like this that make staying somewhere extra special.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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