A popular restaurant with views over the Jamaa El Fna
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakchi restaurant glows a deep red across the square.
This popular place facing Jamaa El Fna is a fine dining experience in tastefully decorated surroundings situated on,
52 Rue des Banques, Av.
Jamaa El Fna
40000 Morocco
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Inside the restaurant, the feeling is intimate with dim lighting as candles flicker on the tables, giving a warm, cosy glow.
It’s a busy restaurant attracting a lot of tourists as it’s one of the few places selling alcohol in the square.
It’s a family-friendly establishment and has plenty of food choices, including vegetarian and vegan options available.
The vibe inside the restaurant is very relaxing despite it being a relatively busy place, constantly buzzing with energy.
Outside, the walls take on a wonderful, red glow, which is very atmospheric and can be seen from across the square.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The food is very good.
I especially enjoyed the tagine that was accompanied by a spicy, Harissa sauce.
The staff are attentive, friendly, and professional.
The decor is traditionally Morroccan, with pretty lamps and comfortable, deep red couches along the windows overlooking the main square. There is also intricate tilework on some of the walls
Le Marrakchi serves cocktails, and you are welcome to just visit for drinks.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Prices are competitive for a licenced restaurant close to Jamaa El Fna.
I went back several times because the vibe was very pleasant, and I enjoyed listening to the sounds of Jamaa El Fna outside the windows and the call to prayer.
I didn’t feel rushed despite the fact that the restaurant was busy and people were coming and going throughout the evening.
It was a relaxed, dining experience.
There is a good selection of dishes on the menu, such as couscous, which is traditionally served on Fridays in Marrakesh.
The bathroom facilities were excellent and fragrantly scented with orange blossom. .
There are a few steps to climb to get into the restaurant, so it’s probably not ideal for people with mobility issues.
Riad Persephone is a large riad located very close to the Jamaa El Fna.
It has a pretty courtyard with lots of beautiful plants everywhere and a large swimming pool.
The colour of the walls is painted in a lovely cobalt blue like that of Jardin Marjorelle and works really well against the lush green foliage and tiled flooring.
The rooftop is large with plenty of seating and a warm jacuzzi for guests to use.
Lit up in the evening, the rooftop looks incredibly pretty.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the lively sounds of everything going on until late at night.
I chose a room on the rooftop. It was exceptionally pretty and decorated in a beautiful Saffron colour.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
For some people, the close proximity to the main square may be perfect.
If you’re a light sleeper, you may find the early morning call to pray rather loud, and the noise from the busy square may be a bit problematic late at night.
The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning.
I would recommend taking ear plugs.
Riad Persephone has a rustic charm, and some areas are a little bit tired and in need of a face-lift.
However, if you prefer a traditional style of riad, this is what you will get but at a high-end price.
This is largely due to its strategic location and the view of Jamaa El Fnaa from the rooftop.
The riad offers activities for guests, such as quad biking and a visit to Agafay desert.
There is also a hammam.
Riad Persephone is situated close to some popular restaurants, including Le Salama and L’Mdina.
It is a vibrant and colourful riad with cosy little nooks to sit and relax in.
Images by Freebird Tracey
If you’re looking for a traditional riad with pretty surroundings, Riad Persephone is a good choice of accommodation.
It all depends on whether you want to be overlooking the action in the main square or not.
For many people, this is a bonus.
Other people may prefer a quieter, relaxing atmosphere on the rooftop listening to the sound of nature.
Overall, Riad Persephone is aesthetically pretty and very comfortable.
Be mindful. There are a lot of steps up to the rooftop, so people with mobility issues may struggle.
Helpful advice for visiting Marrakesh for the first time.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I’ve put together a few useful tips to help your trip run smoothly.
Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.
In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.
There are plenty of 🏧 machines located around the city.
I use the one outside the post office where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.
The exchange rate is good, and it was usually working.
You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.
There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.
It’s advisable to carry a small amount of cash with you for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.
Something you may want to consider if you don’t have cash at the airport is to ask your accommodation to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.
Most accommodations will do this for you when you book. It’s prepaid, so you won’t have to worry.
You will probably need a SIM card.
I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.
This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived in Marrakech.
Having data gave me reassurance as a solo female traveller.
I could use Google maps in the medina, which was helpful in case I got lost.
It’s worth noting that Google Maps may not work in some areas of the souks, though.
Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually very good, so it’s nice to be nice.
I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.
You can drink the tap water allegedly, but personally, I wouldn’t recommend it.
Some tourists have what’s called a GRAYL water bottle, which takes out the bad stuff, but I haven’t tried one myself.
I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus the water doesn’t taste that good and water purifiers don’t change the taste of the water.
There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell it.
Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.
Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.
Image Freebird Tracey.
Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.
Places like Bacha Coffee can have waiting times for up to 2 hours, so come early and join the queue.
The same applies to Bahia Palace and the Madrasa Ben Youseff.
I found shopping in the souks early in the morning favourable.
It was less crammed with tourists, and I avoided the mid afternoon heat.
Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.
However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.
Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.
I have written a separate post on what to wear when you’re visiting Marrakech.
Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.
There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.
Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.
Some high-end riads and hotels will also serve alcohol.
It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.
If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.
The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.
There is also a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.
People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.
It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.
Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.
Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.
Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.
The locals will love telling you all about it..
There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a few dirhams.
I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.
Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.
Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.
The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.
I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.
See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.
I hope some of these nuggets of advice help you to have the best experience in Marrakech.
The first place I go after arriving in the medina is Henna Art Cafe.
It’s the perfect spot to stop and refuel myself after my flight and the long queues at Marrakech Menara airport.
Henna Art Cafe is a place where I can familiarise myself with where I am and check Google maps for the location of my riad.
It’s a quirky place with decent food and the funkiest little bathroom, even if it is a bit of a tight squeeze.
On the first floor, you can get henna tattoos done, and there are plenty of designs to choose from.
All are 100% natural, and the henna ladies are very professional.
I would recommend getting your henna tattoo done in a reputable place like here as opposed to Jamaa El Fna.
Henna Art Cafe has a really relaxing vibe, and I often stop by to enjoy a meal at lunchtime whilst shopping in the medina.
It’s also very reasonable if you’re on a tight budget.
There is a good selection of food on the menu, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options are available.
There is free WiFi, and it’s popular with digital nomads.
It’s a friendly place and a good introduction to the medina without being too overly stimulating.
Henna Art Cafe is located in the heart of the medina, just a three minutes stroll down Riad Zeitoun al Kdim from Djemma El Fna.
It is open 7 days a week from 11 to 8.30 PM.
During Ramadan, it closes earlier at 5.30 PM.
I recommend the freshly squeezed lemon juice. It’s tangy and refreshing and packed with vitamin C.
Henna Art Cafe does a nice fragrant tagine, but if you’ve overdosed on tagine or couscous, there are plenty of other interesting options on the menu.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Payment for your meal is taken downstairs on the way out, and cards are accepted here.
After a nice meal and a rest at Henna Art Cafe, I’m always ready to tackle the challenge of trying to locate my riad.
My battery is recharged, and I have begun to climatise to the change of temperature between my own country and that of North Africa.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I have a soft spot for this quirky little cafe.
Henna Art Cafe was my first introduction to the medina, and I was eased into the cultural change with my first bowl of harissa soup and traditional Morroccan bread.
I could say this is where my love affair with Marrakech began..
My 5 favourite and not so favourite things about Marrakech.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech is ‘my happy place’.
It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Gueliz and Hivernage, the new part of the city.
Visitors may find Marrakech is an assault on the senses.
The lively sights, sounds, and smells of Jamaa El Fna can be overly stimulating for even the most seasoned of travellers.
However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech because it’s part of the charm of the city and is just as exciting as it is chaotic.
I have made a list of the 5 things that I love and hate about this fascinating city..
The 5 things I dislike are;
1.
If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.
The monkeys on chains and the snake charmers that encourage you to have a photo taken with them are difficult for me to accept.
I wouldn’t encourage this.
The monkies have been brought down from their natural habitat in the Atlas mountains.
Although local people need to make a living somehow, they clearly don’t want to be chained up for hours every day dressed in tutus and nappies.
Then there are the horses, taking tourists through the busy traffic and the donkeys pulling heavey laden carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.
The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.
The donkeys look overworked and neglected.
It’s the culture of Marrakech, but very different from what I’m used to.
I can’t criticise an age-old way of life or impose my beliefs onto another culture, but I did struggle with it the first time I visited Marrakech.
I avoided eye contact with the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, and eventually, they stopped approaching me.
There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of many of the riads.
They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring towards them as a rule.
If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.
2.
Queueing at the airport.
Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so you have to accept it.
Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.
You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.
Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.
Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.
3.
Marrakech is touristy.
The narrow alleyways in the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.
Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.
Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it may feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.
Tip: Plan to visit in January or November when it’s quieter.
It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.
There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will be able to get that perfect photo opportunity, and the queues will be shorter.
Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors without asking for permission first. They don’t feel comfortable about being photographed and may ask for money off you.
4.
The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks is thick and heavy.
The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.
This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.
There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get too busy.
Around 9 is an ideal time.
There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.
Pollution is fairly bad in Marrakech, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.
5.
The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.
During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.
This includes locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.
The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors will persistently shove the menu in your face to get your custom.
Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries occasionally.
It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations
The henna ladies also vy for your custom.
It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them telling you that it’s a gift.
After they’ve finished they’ll ask for money from you and it can get quite heated.
Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to show too much interest with any of the vendors.
Politely saying “La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.
It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.
Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.
Whilst it’s sometimes difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors calling out to you for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive is very real.
Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.
So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’
I am absolutely in love with this city.
Here’s why…
1.
The people are wonderful.
You can expect to meet the friendliest,most welcoming people you have ever met.
They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.
They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.
They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.
Many of the people of Marrakech identity as Amazigh, and their culture is fascinating.
The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the staff in the riads go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.
I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.
They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard.
The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.
They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after an exhilarating experience outside the walls of the riad.
I have written a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.
2.
The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship around Marrakech.
If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful, vibrant colours, you will be in paradise in the Souks.
You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products
You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items in their designated areas.
Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.
Just be prepared to bargain.
3.
The food is delicious.
There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.
There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.
The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.
I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.
The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.
Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in
It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.
Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.
Tangia is a pot of meat, usually lamb or beef, that’s cooked in the embers of the local Hammam.
It’s left to cook for several hours until it’s really tender.
There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found in the main square, Jamaa El Fna.
This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists.
Also, a few restaurants sell camel burgers if you’re feeling adventurous.
Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer, and many of the restaurants around the medina are absolutely stunning inside.
I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee if you’re a coffee lover.
There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.
You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.
4.
The architecture is absolutely stunning.
There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely exquisite.
Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.
The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.
I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,
. Bahia Palace.
. Madrasa Ben Youssef.
. The saadian Tombs.
. The Koutoubia Mosque.
. The Secret Garden.
. Bacha Museum.
. Marrakech Museum
Big wooden doorways around the medina are an example of the amazing craftsmanship that Marrakech is known for.
Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.
5.
Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places
I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.
I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..
There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience a boat ride and feed the monkeys.
You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.
If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.
Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.
Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.
Here are a few other things to take into consideration..
Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.
Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.
I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.
Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.
Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..
Image by Freebird Tracey.
If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity, a place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet perfectly functional, a place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,
Then Marrakech is for you.
I would recommend doing a little bit of research before you visit.
Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge so that you will know what to expect.
That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will remain with you forever.
Sounds Of The Souks 