Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: Marrakech

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee.

    Traditional Saharan Coffee. 

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Coffee brewed using a centuries old technique.

    Check Bismillah Sand Coffee is a hidden gem inside Souk El Kebir.

    Rich, aromatic coffee is brewed using hot saharan sand and gently spiced with a touch of Cardamom, Turmeric, or Cinnamon to give it a distinct flavour.

    To make it, the coffee is added to iced water inside small brass pots and then heated by moving it around by hand in hot sand.

    The coffee has a rich, dense, creamy flavour unlike any other coffee found in the medina.

    This charming spot is humble in appearance, cosy and inviting.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is also a rooftop where you can sit to enjoy your coffee in peace, a moment of self-indulgence

    Chez Bismillah offers you a serene refuge where you can sit watching the medina come to life tucked away in a quiet space away from the crowds.

    It’s an experience seeing the coffee gently warmed by hot Merzouga desert sand and savouring its unique taste.

    I was surprised how quickly the coffee became hot. I sat watching it being made from arabica and fragrant spices, which filled the air around me.

    Chez Bismillah is a unique experience firmly rooted in place and tradition.

    The friendly, welcoming proprietor gives you a glimpse into a past that conjures up images of camel traders selling cloth in the fondouk and stretches of vast desert terrain.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s not just a cup of coffee.

    It’s an escape from reality, a moment of peace from the hectic rhythm of the busy alleyways of the souks.

    Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee can be found at 193 Souk El Kabir, it is open daily from 9.00am until 9.00pm with the exception of Saturday and Sunday when it closes at 7.00pm.

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  • Les Bains Kenaria.

    A traditional Hammam and Rooftop Cafe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Over 400 years old and beautifully preserved and restored.

    Les Bains Kenaria has been revived to become a sanctuary in the medina.

    It still uses the ancient Moroccan tradition of heating the Hammam using the wood fired method.

    Services include newly added thermal rooms, warm baths, cold baths, a jacuzzi style pool, and a massage.

    Les Bains Kenaria is also a rooftop cafe, and this is where my experience here began.

    I was lured in by the lush tropical plants that spoke to me from the intricately crafted doorway.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I made my way upstairs onto the pretty rooftop and was seated on a comfortable, colourful couch.

    The staff were really friendly and courteous, and they helped me to choose a vegetarian option from the menu.

    My food was one of the most delicious tagines I’d tried in Marrakech.

    The fresh vegetables included fava beans and olives and tasted absolutely sumptuous.

    I watched the sun setting as I tucked into my food, and I could hear the lively sounds of the souk below.

    It was a lovely atmosphere, and I could watch everyday life taking place on the adjacent rooftops.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I chose a beet smoothie for the first time, and it was quite different from anything I’d had before.

    The setting was peaceful despite it being in the busy medina, with tourists shopping in the street below.

    I was able to enjoy my meal in a relaxed, stressfree manner, taking my time and not feeling rushed at all.

    The food is traditional Morroccan cuisine, and prices are very competitive.

    There is plenty of choice for lunch and dinner on the menu, and breakfast is also available.

    The opening hours are;

    9.00am until 8.00pm daily.

    The address is;

    Bain Maure, N 132,

    Marrakech 40040, Morocco.

    I will certainly be back to eat here again, and next time, I may even try a Hammam experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • LA Maison Des Oliviers.

    A beautiful resort with exotic, tranquil gardens.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was searching for the perfect place outside the medina to enjoy some peace and tranquillity.

    I heard about La Maison Des Oliviers and decided to spend a few days there.

    The grounds of this popular resort are absolutely beautiful and very well maintained.

    Surrounded by olive trees, palms, and citrus trees, it feels very exotic, and the building is like a mediaeval castle with its cob walls and lush gardens.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a heated swimming pool that is kept immaculately clean and a pool bar serving good food and alcohol.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is set over 3 hectares and has 10 standard rooms, 10 deluxe rooms, 17 senior suites, and 3 ambassador suites.

    There is a small shop selling souvenirs on the premises.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed in one of the standard rooms, and it was large and comfortable, with all the amenities I needed for my stay.

    It was lovely just relaxing by the pool and literally spending several days doing absolutely nothing.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner.

    The food was nice, and the outdoor seating area was perfect for pre dinner drinks or a night cap.

    There is a shuttle that takes guests into the medina, which is 10 minutes away from the resort.

    Some people have mentioned the surroundings outside the gates of the accommodation.

    It is undeveloped, and I wouldn’t walk around in the evening by myself, but I did feel safe visiting the small supermarket during daylight hours.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is a place for total relaxation.

    I would recommend staying there after a few days in the busy medina.

    It is a welcome break from the nonstop pace and a well-deserved retreat where you can completely wind down and catch a few sun rays.

    I enjoyed my relaxing break here. However, I did miss the authenticity of the medina.

    Although the staff were friendly and helpful, they are simply doing a job, and I missed the charm and more personal experience that I get from staying in a riad.

    I would return again, purely for the contrast to the lively, touristic side of Marrakech.

    Sometimes, it’s nice to do nothing except sunbathe and kick back for a while.

    I missed stepping straight out of my accommodation into the bustling medina, so I would probably make it a short visit at the end of my trip.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is located near the Agdal area of Marrakech.

    KM 6, Route de l’Ourika,

    Tassoultante

    40000  Marrakech Morocco.

    It is possible to get a ‘Day Pass’ also.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is also a popular wedding venue.

    Image by Freebird.
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  • Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    A popular Italian restaurant in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Pepe Nero is an exceptionally good restaurant tucked away on a quiet street in the medina.

    It is an Italian restaurant, but they also serve delicious Moroccan cuisine.

    The setting is absolutely stunning, with a pretty courtyard surrounded by beautiful foliage and gentle trickling fountains.

    I ate here a few times during my visit to Marrakech, and I enjoyed the food immensely on both occasions.

    The menu is creative, and they also have delicious pasta dishes suitable for vegetarians like myself.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had pasta with truffle, and it was a delight on the senses, beautifully presented and cooked to perfection.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The desert menu is also good, with a fine selection of light deserts to compliment the main course.

    Alcohol is served, including a selection of wines, cocktails, and spirits.

    The ambience is relaxing with music playing in the background.

    It can get slightly livelier in the evening, but it never becomes overly stimulating and still maintains a sense of calm.

    Despite the music tempo, I never had to raise my voice to be heard. The atmosphere is still calm and conducive to a pleasant, romantic evening.

    Pepe Nero is open for lunch and dinner, and there are two courtyards as well as a nice enclosed dining area.

    Guests can sit around the pool where bougainvillaea drapes down the wall or in the second courtyard area with a couple of attractive fountains, burbling in the background.

    If the weather is cooler, the internal dining area is elegant and refined.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff at Pepe Nero are professional and friendly.

    They are knowledgeable and help you to make the right choices when choosing from the menu.

    The experience of eating here was worth every dirham..

    Good food, a beautiful, unpretentious environment, and excellent service combined to ensure the perfect dining experience.

    I would certainly recommend Pepe Nero if you enjoy Italian food and want a change from Tagine or couscous.

    There is a small car park close to the restaurant also.

    Pepe Nero is also a riad called Riyadh Al Moussika, I have written an article about staying here.

    Opening hours for the restaurant are;

    1.00pm until 4.00pm daily.

    6.00pm until 11.30 daily.

    The address is;

    17 Derb Cherkaoul

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Booking is advisable as this is a popular restaurant and can get busy, especially during the evening.

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  • Riyadh Al Moussika

    A beautiful riad, above Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was fortunate enough to stay at Riyadh Al Moussika in the medina.

    The interior was absolutely spectacular as it was once home to the Pasha of Marrakech.

    The two courtyards were beautifully preserved and a haven of peace and tranquillity in the morning.

    The sound of birdsong and the gentle trickle of water from the fountains was a lovely way to begin each day.

    The riad is also a popular Italian restaurant called Pepe Nero, which I feature in a separate article.

    Once the restaurant is open for business, music is playing, but during the afternoon, between 4 and 6, it is peaceful and relaxing.

    The evenings can become livelier, so earplugs are a must if you wish to retire to bed early as the tempo of the music is slightly louder.

    I didn’t really find this an issue, and the restaurant closes at 11.30pm, becoming quiet very quickly afterwards.

    The rooms are huge and feel very noble.

    The blue suite is incredibly grand, fit for royalty.

    I stayed in the single room, and it was perfectly adequate for me with all the amenities I required.

    Rooms in riads are generally quite dark to keep them cool, but this is part of the authenticity of them.

    Riyadh Al Moussika is a very traditional riad, with intricate tilework adorning the water features and stunning plants, trees, and bougainvillaea climbing the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is separated into private areas for guests, with sun loungers to absorb some  hot African sun.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was a pleasurable experience, sipping a Disaronno and listening to the burbling fountain whilst gazing into the clear pool surrounded by exotic foliage.

    The location of Riyadh Al Moussika is also very good.

    It is in a quiet area with a small carpark close by.

    There are several restaurants and cafes situated a ‘stones throw’ away, including Mandala Society.

    The staff were very professional but still maintained a friendly, welcoming atmosphere.

    They were helpful and polite at all times.

    Complimentary water and mint tea were available for guests each day, which was a nice touch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The breakfast was a good start to each day and consisted of typical Moroccan sweet treats with the option of omelette also.

    Msemen pancakes, croissants,  cheese, fruit, and yoghurt, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffee all served in the tranquil courtyard.

    I really enjoyed my stay in Riyadh Al Moussika and would highly recommend it.

    The music is definitely something to bear in mind if you are someone who likes to retire early, but as a solo traveller, it took away the feelings of isolation that can sometimes occur.

    Taking a pair of earplugs definitely helped.

    The excellent service and exquisite environment made up for the slight inconvenience of the bustling restaurant vibe.

    Riyadh Al Moussika can be located at;

    62 Derb Boutouil,

    Marrakech 40000

    Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Winter In Marrakech.

    Visiting Marrakech During The Cooler Season

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    December in Marrakesh can still be warm and sunny, making it the perfect destination for people who don’t particularly enjoy the stifling summer temperatures.

    If you want to avoid the huge crowds of tourists, you might prefer the months of December and January.

    It’s worth noting that there is a possibility of more rain during the winter months, and evenings can be chilly, but packing the right clothing will ensure that you still have a wonderful experience.

    In Gueliz and Hivenage, modern hotels and apartments have heating.

    In the medina, riads have air conditioning and will supply their guests with extra warm blankets.

    Wearing light layers and carrying a lightweight weatherproof jacket and umbrella will make visiting the city’s attractions more enjoyable.

    I went in December, and it was still sunny most days, turning chillier after sunset.

    I still had a brilliant time and found that vendors in the souks were easier to haggle with because of fewer tourists.

    I even managed to bag a few really good deals to take home with me.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Another thing worth mentioning is that the price of flights and accommodation are significantly cheaper too.

    Regarding day excursions, the Atlas mountains do get snow, so if you’re considering a day trip to Ourika Valley or Imlil, check if travel is safe before booking.

    The train to Casablanca is operational, and buses to Essaouira still run, so that’s an alternative day trip if it’s too dangerous or cold to go hiking in the more remote areas.

    I was pleasantly surprised at how often I was able to sit outside and people watch in Jamaa El Fna in December.

    Some days were bright and sunny, and some were cloudy with marginally cooler temperatures.

    I never felt cold and was able to walk around the medina comfortably.

    Marrakech in December/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Some of the restaurants I visited, such as The Clock in the Kasbah, had roaring fires during the evenings, creating a nice cosy atmosphere.

    Occasionally, Marrakech can experience more rainfall than usual, so this is something to bear in mind.

    If  you don’t want to get caught out, take an umbrella out with you or a lightweight jacket.

    There is still plenty to see and do, so don’t be too upset if you’re caught in a storm.

    Tailor your itinerary to suit the climate and keep an eye on the weather forecast daily.

    There are so many exciting museums such as the Museum of Photography and Berber Carpet Museum to keep you entertained.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I would definitely go again during winter.

    It helped me to cope with the gloomy grey days in the UK and broke up the long winter.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

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  • Staying In The Kasbah.

    An authentic district of Marrakech with more local people.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is a quieter part of Marrakech, with fewer tourists than the medina.

    Staying in the Kasbah, you feel totally immersed in the culture of Marrakech as you rub shoulders with the friendly locals.

    There are plenty of restaurants and shops including a good fixed price store selling everything you will find in the souks at a realistic price.

    *See my separate post on Dar Bouchaib.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Inside the Kasbah, you can visit tourist attractions like the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.

    Zeitoune Cafe overlooking the mosque is a lovely spot for lunch or a drink whilst taking a break from sightseeing.

    Sitting outside on the colourful cushions people watching in the Moroccan sun was quite an experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The kasbah is about 15 to 20 minutes leisurely walking from the main square with plenty to see along the way.

    The walk is interesting, with many shops and vendors selling all kinds of stuff.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    In the kasbah, there are a  range of budget and high-end riads to stay in.

    It is definitely quieter than the medina.

    I stayed in Riad Hikaya, it was absolutely lovely and a totally relaxing few days for me.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    *See my separate article about staying at Riad Hikaya.

    The Kasbah is the historical citadel in Marrakesh with fortified walls.

    The narrow alleyways make it an exciting place to visit, and there are fewer motorcycles and donkeys trying to negotiate the streets at the same time as you, making it less stressful than the medina.

    There are plenty of good restaurants to enjoy nice food so you won’t have to go too far.

    The Kasbah is home to the Clock restaurant and its legendary camel burger and storytelling evenings.

    Also, the Kasbah Cafe is a popular place for lunch and dinner.

    Krepchy does a fantastic breakfast, and the prices are very reasonable.

    I highly recommend the waffles.

    To return from the medina, consider taking a tuk-tuk if the weather is hot.

    It’s quite an adventure in itself as you rattle along the bumpy streets.

    Spending an hour or two enjoying this interesting area of Marrakech is definitely worth it.

    The locals are very friendly, and it was a pleasure getting the opportunity to sit and chat with them.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I would recommend staying in the kasbah if you prefer a quieter, more authentic experience in Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riad Hikaya.

    A beautifully restored riad in the Kasbah.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was purchased by an Englishman who spent 15 years restoring it.

    Riad Hikaya is a gorgeous riad located in the Kasbah district of Marrakech.

    It’s very beautiful inside, and the amount of work that has gone into restoring it is evident as soon as you walk through the door.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya is not considered a budget accommodation.

    However, considering its aesthetics and the professionalism of the staff, it’s worth paying a little bit extra to stay here.

    The breakfasts were really good and I ate my evening meal here one evening and the food was delicious.

    I had a three course meal, and it was freshly cooked.

    I sat at the edge of the pool to eat, admiring the stunning decor and the beautiful Moroccan lampshade that hung in the centre.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a beautiful rooftop with several places to sit in the shade or soak up some of the hot, morroccan sun.

    It is a lovely space to relax with colourful couches and cushions and lush green plants growing along the walls.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is a great place to stay with more of an authentic feel about it.

    There are fewer tourists, and the locals are friendly and welcoming.

    There are plenty of good restaurants, including The Clock, which is across the road from Riad Hikaya.

    There are plenty of shops and attractions such as El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs to explore.

    I enjoyed staying amongst the locals in the Kasbah, and it was an easy 20-minute walk to the main square, Jamaa El Fna.

    Riad Hikaya was a good choice of accommodation.

    I especially loved the large copper bathtub in my room and the total peace and quiet inside the riad

    If you’re looking for a lively scene, this place may not be for you.

    However, if you want to disconnect from the busy touristic areas for a while, it’s a perfect retreat.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed at Riad Hikaya in the winter, I expect it may be busier during the spring and summer months.

    The riad was warm and cosy, and I appreciated the way the room was heated to a nice  comfortable temperature.

    Some riads can be quite cold inside at this time of year.

    Riad Hikaya is a beautiful riad.

    The craftsmanship that’s gone into creating each piece of furniture and door is exceptional.

    The views of the snowcapped Atlas mountains in the morning are spectacular.

    I really enjoyed my winter break at this riad and would definitely return again.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Mandala Society.

    A hip joint playing cool music and serving excellent food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was lucky enough to stumble across this wonderful little place in the medina

    The music they were playing alone was enough to keep me seated happily for a while as I sipped on a deliciously fresh fruit smoothie.

    There is a chilled, boho vibe in this little place with an air of sophistication that suits all ages and walks of life.

    I went at lunchtime and it was quite busy so I sat on the rooftop to eat my food.

    The view across the medina was pleasant, and the energy was good up there.

    I tried the avocado toast, and it was so delicious.

    The creative way that the chef used fresh fruit to decorate the meal added a touch of refinement to my meal, making a simple brunch rather more special.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The interior decor is cosy, yet modern, bright, and airy.

    Friendly staff wait on the tables, and the menu is both exciting and interesting.

    I found the price of lunch competitive and the quality of the food served is very good.

    I sat listening to The Doors, Bob Dylan, and a few other tunes from the late sixties and seventies.

    It felt like such a great vibe, and I was happy to sit and just enjoy the music they were playing.

    It was quite a treat in the middle of a busy medina.

    I could have hung out there for hours..

    Travellers and tourists alike frequent Mandala Society, giving it a contemporary style, yet with a cosy intimate twist.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    You can find Mandala Society at 159 Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid,

    Marrakech 40000.

    The opening hours are,

    9.30am to 10.30pm daily.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information about this and other places to eat,

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  • Dar Bouchaib.

    A fixed price store in the Kasbah selling everything.

    If you are fed up with haggling every time you want to buy something, there is a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.

    Here, you will find everything  that’s for sale in the souks but at a fixed price.

    The perfumed oils are of a very high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several oils together.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    On the first floor, exquisite furniture, mirrors, Berber rugs, and other beautiful handmade pieces to furnish your home with.

    They also ship worldwide.

    The staff are incredibly helpful, and you can wander around the shop leisurely without any pressure to buy.

    The store is huge and worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship and detail that’s gone into creating the furniture and mirrors on the upper floor.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is a 15 – to 20-minute walk from the main square with plenty of interesting shops and good restaurants along the way.

    Here, you will find the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.

    Dar Bouchaib can be found on;

    Rue de La Kasbah,

    Marrakech 40000.

    Opening times are;

    Daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm.

    Bank holiday hours may differ.

    Although part of visiting Marrakech is to enjoy shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling and knowing how much you should be paying for something can become slightly stressful.

    Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof.

    The prices are fixed and reflect what you should be paying for each item.

    There is also a massive selection of wonderful Berber rugs for sale in the store.

    Make it part of your visit to the Kasbah area.

    You won’t be disappointed.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Dar Bouchaib is a few steps away from Krepchy.

    If you’re sightseeing in the kasbah, I would recommend taking a look around this impressive store.

    You may find something interesting to take home with you.

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