Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: medina

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • Les Bains Kenaria.

    A traditional Hammam and Rooftop Cafe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Over 400 years old and beautifully preserved and restored.

    Les Bains Kenaria has been revived to become a sanctuary in the medina.

    It still uses the ancient Moroccan tradition of heating the Hammam using the wood fired method.

    Services include newly added thermal rooms, warm baths, cold baths, a jacuzzi style pool, and a massage.

    Les Bains Kenaria is also a rooftop cafe, and this is where my experience here began.

    I was lured in by the lush tropical plants that spoke to me from the intricately crafted doorway.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I made my way upstairs onto the pretty rooftop and was seated on a comfortable, colourful couch.

    The staff were really friendly and courteous, and they helped me to choose a vegetarian option from the menu.

    My food was one of the most delicious tagines I’d tried in Marrakech.

    The fresh vegetables included fava beans and olives and tasted absolutely sumptuous.

    I watched the sun setting as I tucked into my food, and I could hear the lively sounds of the souk below.

    It was a lovely atmosphere, and I could watch everyday life taking place on the adjacent rooftops.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I chose a beet smoothie for the first time, and it was quite different from anything I’d had before.

    The setting was peaceful despite it being in the busy medina, with tourists shopping in the street below.

    I was able to enjoy my meal in a relaxed, stressfree manner, taking my time and not feeling rushed at all.

    The food is traditional Morroccan cuisine, and prices are very competitive.

    There is plenty of choice for lunch and dinner on the menu, and breakfast is also available.

    The opening hours are;

    9.00am until 8.00pm daily.

    The address is;

    Bain Maure, N 132,

    Marrakech 40040, Morocco.

    I will certainly be back to eat here again, and next time, I may even try a Hammam experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    A popular Italian restaurant in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Pepe Nero is an exceptionally good restaurant tucked away on a quiet street in the medina.

    It is an Italian restaurant, but they also serve delicious Moroccan cuisine.

    The setting is absolutely stunning, with a pretty courtyard surrounded by beautiful foliage and gentle trickling fountains.

    I ate here a few times during my visit to Marrakech, and I enjoyed the food immensely on both occasions.

    The menu is creative, and they also have delicious pasta dishes suitable for vegetarians like myself.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had pasta with truffle, and it was a delight on the senses, beautifully presented and cooked to perfection.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The desert menu is also good, with a fine selection of light deserts to compliment the main course.

    Alcohol is served, including a selection of wines, cocktails, and spirits.

    The ambience is relaxing with music playing in the background.

    It can get slightly livelier in the evening, but it never becomes overly stimulating and still maintains a sense of calm.

    Despite the music tempo, I never had to raise my voice to be heard. The atmosphere is still calm and conducive to a pleasant, romantic evening.

    Pepe Nero is open for lunch and dinner, and there are two courtyards as well as a nice enclosed dining area.

    Guests can sit around the pool where bougainvillaea drapes down the wall or in the second courtyard area with a couple of attractive fountains, burbling in the background.

    If the weather is cooler, the internal dining area is elegant and refined.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff at Pepe Nero are professional and friendly.

    They are knowledgeable and help you to make the right choices when choosing from the menu.

    The experience of eating here was worth every dirham..

    Good food, a beautiful, unpretentious environment, and excellent service combined to ensure the perfect dining experience.

    I would certainly recommend Pepe Nero if you enjoy Italian food and want a change from Tagine or couscous.

    There is a small car park close to the restaurant also.

    Pepe Nero is also a riad called Riyadh Al Moussika, I have written an article about staying here.

    Opening hours for the restaurant are;

    1.00pm until 4.00pm daily.

    6.00pm until 11.30 daily.

    The address is;

    17 Derb Cherkaoul

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Booking is advisable as this is a popular restaurant and can get busy, especially during the evening.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riyadh Al Moussika

    A beautiful riad, above Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was fortunate enough to stay at Riyadh Al Moussika in the medina.

    The interior was absolutely spectacular as it was once home to the Pasha of Marrakech.

    The two courtyards were beautifully preserved and a haven of peace and tranquillity in the morning.

    The sound of birdsong and the gentle trickle of water from the fountains was a lovely way to begin each day.

    The riad is also a popular Italian restaurant called Pepe Nero, which I feature in a separate article.

    Once the restaurant is open for business, music is playing, but during the afternoon, between 4 and 6, it is peaceful and relaxing.

    The evenings can become livelier, so earplugs are a must if you wish to retire to bed early as the tempo of the music is slightly louder.

    I didn’t really find this an issue, and the restaurant closes at 11.30pm, becoming quiet very quickly afterwards.

    The rooms are huge and feel very noble.

    The blue suite is incredibly grand, fit for royalty.

    I stayed in the single room, and it was perfectly adequate for me with all the amenities I required.

    Rooms in riads are generally quite dark to keep them cool, but this is part of the authenticity of them.

    Riyadh Al Moussika is a very traditional riad, with intricate tilework adorning the water features and stunning plants, trees, and bougainvillaea climbing the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is separated into private areas for guests, with sun loungers to absorb some  hot African sun.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was a pleasurable experience, sipping a Disaronno and listening to the burbling fountain whilst gazing into the clear pool surrounded by exotic foliage.

    The location of Riyadh Al Moussika is also very good.

    It is in a quiet area with a small carpark close by.

    There are several restaurants and cafes situated a ‘stones throw’ away, including Mandala Society.

    The staff were very professional but still maintained a friendly, welcoming atmosphere.

    They were helpful and polite at all times.

    Complimentary water and mint tea were available for guests each day, which was a nice touch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The breakfast was a good start to each day and consisted of typical Moroccan sweet treats with the option of omelette also.

    Msemen pancakes, croissants,  cheese, fruit, and yoghurt, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffee all served in the tranquil courtyard.

    I really enjoyed my stay in Riyadh Al Moussika and would highly recommend it.

    The music is definitely something to bear in mind if you are someone who likes to retire early, but as a solo traveller, it took away the feelings of isolation that can sometimes occur.

    Taking a pair of earplugs definitely helped.

    The excellent service and exquisite environment made up for the slight inconvenience of the bustling restaurant vibe.

    Riyadh Al Moussika can be located at;

    62 Derb Boutouil,

    Marrakech 40000

    Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com

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  • Winter In Marrakech.

    Visiting Marrakech During The Cooler Season

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    December in Marrakesh can still be warm and sunny, making it the perfect destination for people who don’t particularly enjoy the stifling summer temperatures.

    If you want to avoid the huge crowds of tourists, you might prefer the months of December and January.

    It’s worth noting that there is a possibility of more rain during the winter months, and evenings can be chilly, but packing the right clothing will ensure that you still have a wonderful experience.

    In Gueliz and Hivenage, modern hotels and apartments have heating.

    In the medina, riads have air conditioning and will supply their guests with extra warm blankets.

    Wearing light layers and carrying a lightweight weatherproof jacket and umbrella will make visiting the city’s attractions more enjoyable.

    I went in December, and it was still sunny most days, turning chillier after sunset.

    I still had a brilliant time and found that vendors in the souks were easier to haggle with because of fewer tourists.

    I even managed to bag a few really good deals to take home with me.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Another thing worth mentioning is that the price of flights and accommodation are significantly cheaper too.

    Regarding day excursions, the Atlas mountains do get snow, so if you’re considering a day trip to Ourika Valley or Imlil, check if travel is safe before booking.

    The train to Casablanca is operational, and buses to Essaouira still run, so that’s an alternative day trip if it’s too dangerous or cold to go hiking in the more remote areas.

    I was pleasantly surprised at how often I was able to sit outside and people watch in Jamaa El Fna in December.

    Some days were bright and sunny, and some were cloudy with marginally cooler temperatures.

    I never felt cold and was able to walk around the medina comfortably.

    Marrakech in December/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Some of the restaurants I visited, such as The Clock in the Kasbah, had roaring fires during the evenings, creating a nice cosy atmosphere.

    Occasionally, Marrakech can experience more rainfall than usual, so this is something to bear in mind.

    If  you don’t want to get caught out, take an umbrella out with you or a lightweight jacket.

    There is still plenty to see and do, so don’t be too upset if you’re caught in a storm.

    Tailor your itinerary to suit the climate and keep an eye on the weather forecast daily.

    There are so many exciting museums such as the Museum of Photography and Berber Carpet Museum to keep you entertained.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I would definitely go again during winter.

    It helped me to cope with the gloomy grey days in the UK and broke up the long winter.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

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    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Mandala Society.

    A hip joint playing cool music and serving excellent food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was lucky enough to stumble across this wonderful little place in the medina

    The music they were playing alone was enough to keep me seated happily for a while as I sipped on a deliciously fresh fruit smoothie.

    There is a chilled, boho vibe in this little place with an air of sophistication that suits all ages and walks of life.

    I went at lunchtime and it was quite busy so I sat on the rooftop to eat my food.

    The view across the medina was pleasant, and the energy was good up there.

    I tried the avocado toast, and it was so delicious.

    The creative way that the chef used fresh fruit to decorate the meal added a touch of refinement to my meal, making a simple brunch rather more special.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The interior decor is cosy, yet modern, bright, and airy.

    Friendly staff wait on the tables, and the menu is both exciting and interesting.

    I found the price of lunch competitive and the quality of the food served is very good.

    I sat listening to The Doors, Bob Dylan, and a few other tunes from the late sixties and seventies.

    It felt like such a great vibe, and I was happy to sit and just enjoy the music they were playing.

    It was quite a treat in the middle of a busy medina.

    I could have hung out there for hours..

    Travellers and tourists alike frequent Mandala Society, giving it a contemporary style, yet with a cosy intimate twist.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    You can find Mandala Society at 159 Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid,

    Marrakech 40000.

    The opening hours are,

    9.30am to 10.30pm daily.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information about this and other places to eat,

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • La Pergola Rooftop Bar.

    One of the places popular for cocktails in the medina

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    La Pergola rooftop bar is quite a little jungle.

    Situated in the medina, close to Jamaa El Fna, La Pergola is a popular restaurant serving food and alcohol including a great range of cocktails.

    The beautiful palm trees that grow up from the courtyard of Cafe Arabe make the ambience very tranquil and relaxing.

    It has a jungly, exotic ambience as you sit nestled amongst the palms.

    Part of Riad Monceau, La Pergola is open to the public and a very busy place, so booking for an evening meal or cocktails is recommended.

    It can be heaving with tourists due to its proximity to the main square.

    I spent an hour enjoying some peace and tranquillity during the afternoon, which is a much quieter time to visit than during the evening.

    I found it very relaxing sitting amongst the exotic trees and plants, listening to gentle background music.

    I enjoyed the fresh smoothies, which were beautifully presented with attention to detail.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Like most places serving alcohol in the medina, it is quite pricey.

    That is because Marrakech is a Muslim country, and alcohol is not widely consumed.

    The stunning surroundings of La Pergola make it worthwhile a visit, and although I didn’t try the food, the menu looked very good.

    I may be tempted to go again and indulge myself.

    Le Bistro Arabe is situated below  La Pergola in the courtyard.

    During the evening, they have live jazz musicians and serve food and alcohol.

    To get to La Pergola, you have to cross the courtyard of Le Bistro Arabe and mount the stairs until you come to the rooftop.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    During the evening, you can hear the live jazz band in Le Bistro Arabe.

    The atmosphere is very lively, and finding somewhere to sit is not easy.

    Booking beforehand guarantees you a seat.

    Seating is on different levels, giving views across the medina or looking down on the people below.

    Comfortable couches attract people to come and relax over a drink or two with friends and family.

    La Pergola is open daily from noon until 11.00pm.

    The address is;

    7/8 Riad Zitoun Lakdim.

    Marrakech 40000

    Morrocco.

    Situated in Riad Monceau, directly above Le Bistro Arabe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of great shops in this area, and a stop off in La Pergola makes a welcome break from sightseeing.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information, contact me via the email address below;

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Mo Mo’s Restaurant.

    A quirky place to dine with terrific views over the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Mo Mo’s restaurant is a colourful and tastefully decorated restaurant in the medina.

    Inside, the tables are set with attractive earthenware, and there is so much to catch your eye strategically placed around the restaurant.

    There is a mid century feel to the restaurant, similar to the Tiki style.

    The colourful interior is vibrant and exciting, with pink and pale blue tones creating a relaxed ambience.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is very popular and the perfect place to watch the sun set over the medina.

    The views across the main square are perfect for observing all the action from a distance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I decided to relax with a drink and watch the setting sun.

    It was quite spectacular.

    The opening time for serving dinner was 6.00pm, and the tables were filling up rapidly.

    The waiters were very busy due to the popularity of Mo Mo’s, and they were friendly and helpful, making the guests feel welcome.

    The menu is interesting, and the food is of good quality with decent portion sizes.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Mo Mo’s is popular with all age groups, and there is plenty of space inside and out to accommodate a large number of people.

    There is certainly plenty to look at, and it’s a very instagrammable place.

    People were taking photos of the fascinating decor.

    It’s unlike other places in the medina, yet still exudes the same charm.

    It is modern and elegant, with a touch of chilled, mellow 1960s energy.

    Mo Mo’s serve Mediterranean food alongside traditional Moroccan specialities.

    Some reviews suggest that the menu is limited, but people say that they enjoyed the food and rated it as high quality.

    Mo Mo’s is quite a new restaurant, so the menu may be tweaked as time goes on to include more dishes.

    The breakfast is an innovative take on a full English breakfast served in a tagine.

    I can vouch for the drinks.

    They were beautifully presented and fresh.

    There was a good choice of juices and smoothies.

    I had a lovely smoothie and I could taste each individual fruit, it was very healthy.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re looking for somewhere with an explosion of colour, traditional yet with a modern twist, this is the perfect place.

    It is exciting and classy at the same time.

    I will definitely be returning..

    Mo Mo’s is open daily from 11.00am to 12.00am

    The address is;

    1 Riad Zitoun, Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

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  • The Saadian Tombs.

    A discovery from the air led to this amazing attraction being opened up to the public

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.

    Rediscovered in 1917, they have become a historical landmark dating back from the late sixteenth century.

    Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor and his family.

    The architecture is very impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and carrara marble.

    The main mausoleum is incredible, and there are usually very long queues to get to see it.

    It’s definitely recommended that you arrive early to avoid waiting for up to more than an hour in the heat.

    The Saadian tombs are very decadent, with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles.

    They showcase the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Hidden for centuries, they were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.

    Located in the Kasbah next to the mosque, the opening times are;

    9.00am – 5.00pm

    The price of entry is 70 dirhams.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • 1112 Morroccan Tea House.

    The first tea house in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    1112 Morroccan Tea House is absolutely stunning.

    It is the first Moroccan tea house in marrakech, serving 12 teas from the 12 areas of Morrocco.

    Set inside a former riad, it is a beautiful place to come and sample the 12 delicious teas on offer, along with modern oriental cakes.

    There is table service, and the food is nicely presented, tasty, and varied.

    There is a selection of light snacks to accompany your choice of tea available on the menu also.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The name 1112 signifies the date 1700 in the gregorian calendar and is etched into the wooden ceiling of the riad.

    The riad was beautifully restored by a morroccan family who have been renowned for their expertise in the restoration of such properties since the 1990s.

    The architecture is beautiful.  Wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and exotic plants make it a delightful environment for sitting and reflecting on the past history of the importance of tea in Morrocco.

    There are interesting facts about the introduction of tea into Morocco and a shop selling nicely packaged tea if you’re looking for a gift to take home with you.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    1112 has a nice rooftop.

    After exploring the museum, it is worthwhile taking a look around this exquisite riad and savouring the whole experience.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Situated close to Ben Youssef, the address is;

    12 Place De La Kissariat, Ben Youssef,

    Marrakech.

    They are open for breakfast and lunch.

    What a lovely way to begin the day, or take a peaceful break from exploring the busy medina..

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Kafe Merstan.

    Spectacular views of the sunset in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Kafe Merstan restaurant and rooftop terrace is located near the spice square and vegetable market in the medina.

    They serve traditional Morroccan food, and prices are very reasonable.

    I had one of the tastiest tagines here, and the overall quality of the food was good.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s popular during sunset, and tourists arrive to watch the sun go down from the pretty rooftop.

    It’s quite a spectacular sight, therefore it can get busy during this time of evening.

    The interior is traditional with a fairly modern twist.

    Colourful soft furnishings and rattan light fittings give a homely, boho vibe.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The food is competitively priced, and the little restaurant is clean and humble.

    Seating is upstairs on the rooftop, so people with mobility issues may not find it easy to access.

    Payment is by card or cash. However, there’s a minimum of 200 MAD for card payment.

    The address for Kafe Merstan is 2 Souk Chaaria Kast Benahid, Marrakech 40000.

    Opening hours are 12.00 until

    10.00pm.

    The restaurant is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef and Museum of Marrakech, so it’s in a strategic position and ideal for taking a break from sightseeing.

    Kafe Merstan offers a good selection of vegetarian dishes, including a very tasty vegetable pastilla.

    It’s an ideal spot for lunch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Merstan may give you the impression of a ‘no frills’ restaurant, but the food was exceptionally good.

    It’s an ideal place for travellers on a budget.

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