The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: medina

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • Bahia Palace.

    One of the most visited attractions in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Bahia Palace is a 19th-century palace in Marrakesh. It’s definitely a must-see if you’re visiting the city, as it is quite spectacular.

    The word Bahia means  ‘brilliance’ in Arabic, a reflection of the splendour of Islamic architecture and art. The rooms inside the Bahia Palace are beautifully decorated with sculpted stucco, zellige tiles, paintings, and mosaics to capture the essence and skill of divine craftsmanship. The intricately carved cedar wood ceilings are a testimony to the beauty and precision involved in the creation of such a spectacular palace.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The huge courtyard is one of the focal points of Bahia Palace. It is rather grand and very spacious with a fountain in the centre and intricate zellige tile work typical of Morroccan design and culture. All the doors open out into it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are approximately 150 rooms organised around multiple internal courtyards and riad gardens. The palace covers around two hectares.

    In 1956, when Morocco gained independence from the French, the palace became the residence of King Hassan II until it was later transferred to the Moroccan Ministry of Culture to serve as a cultural icon and tourist attraction. Bahia Palace has now become one of the most significant landmarks and tourist destinations in Marrakech, attracting 1000s of visitors.

    If you’re planning a visit, it is advisable to book tickets as queues can be extremely long. They cost 70 dirhams at the time of writing, and the palace is open between 8.00am-5.00pm daily.

    The gardens surrounding the palace are also impressive, with orange trees lining the route to the entrance. It’s worth having a wander around them after seeing the interior.

    I would suggest arriving as close to opening time as you possibly can to avoid the crowds. That way, you can spend time reading about the history of the palace before it becomes too busy, and you also have a better chance to capture a few photos of the internal chambers and exquisitely decorated rooms.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re visiting marrakech, the Bahia Palace will give you a good understanding of both Moroccan and Islamic culture and the architecture, art and craftsmanship that defines it.

    If you enjoy looking at Islamic architecture, you should also visit Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs in the Kasbah area of the city.

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  • The Saadian Tombs.

    A testimony to the opulence of the Saadian dynasty.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the most popular tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.

    The Saadian tombs have become a historical landmark dating back as far as the late sixteenth century. Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour and his family.

    The  mixture of Spanish and Moorish architecture is really impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and Italian Carrara marble.The main mausoleum is quite remarkable, with beautifully decorated ceilings and columns and there are usually very long queues waiting to see it. The Saadian tombs are very decadent with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles, showcasing the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.

    I recommend arriving early around opening time to avoid waiting too long to see the main mausoleum. Tourists can wait for over an hour in the heat, so make sure you have a bottle of water handy just in case.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs were hidden for centuries. They were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.

    Housing over 100 tombs with beautiful zellige tiles and marble columns, this royal necropolis was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour to honour his ancestors. The chamber of 12 columns is where the tombs of Ahmed al- Mansour and his successors are laid to rest. In the gardens lie the tombs of soldiers and servants. There is a smaller  tranquil chamber, which is called the Chamber of Three Niches.

    The Saadian Tombs are an example of Moroccos’ rich history and culture. They are in close proximity to El Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both are worth a visit if your you’re interested in Islamic art and architecture.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs are in the Kasbah next to the mosque, and the opening times are 9.00 am until 5.00pm daily. The price of entry at the time of writing is 100 dirhams.

    The Kasbah is located to the south of the medina.

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  • Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex.

    Visit a fixed price arts and craft centre in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex is a government sponsored initiative for skilled artisans.

    A short walk away from Jamaa El Fna, opposite Cyber Park, is this unique space in Marrakech. Within the complex, you will find artisans creating beautiful artwork, including paintings, rugs, and pottery.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It was established for artisans to teach their work to apprentices, and it’s a more low-key shopping experience than the souks. The best artisans are picked to work here, and there is usually only one or two representing each speciality, unlike in the souks. There are wonderful examples of excellent craft work, including brass and copper crafts, lamps, leather work, musical instruments, and much more..

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Prices are fixed, and all the profit goes to the artisans.

    Shopping in this fascinating area gives you an idea of how much you should be charged for items in the souks. Some things here are slightly pricer, but you don’t have to bargain hard, and it’s a more relaxed shopping experience.

    Within the complex is a simple restaurant for food and drinks. It’s a cute waterhole to take a rest and admire the attractive setting. The tiled surroundings of Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex are very beautiful to look at and complimented by small green areas with plants.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is also calligraphy available. If you want a gift for someone, consider getting their name in Arabic printed onto a nice postcard.

    I enjoyed spending a couple of hours away from the hectic pace of the medina. The slow rhythmic tapping of skilled artisans at work was a nice change of pace. Watching the ladies demonstrate carpet weaving on a traditional loom was really interesting, and I was also invited to have a go.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex is located on Mohammed V Avenue. It’s about a 6 minute walk from the Jamaa El Fna. The times of opening are 9.30am until 7.00pm, with the exception of Sunday when they close at 2.00pm.

    I found a few lovely paintings to take home with me, which were painted by a local artist and beautifully handcrafted mirrors that caught my eye.

    Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex is a perfect respite from the chaos of the medina and a wonderful spot to pick up a few lovely treasures whilst experiencing the local people showcasing their exceptional skills.

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  • Le Jardin Secret.

    Spend time in a serene corner of the souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Jardin Secret is a hidden gem inside the medina. It’s a restored 19th-century palace complex in the Mouassine district of Marrakech. An oasis of exotic plants and flowers where you can sit and enjoy the calm and beautiful surroundings, listening to the birds singing in the trees.  Nestled secretly in the middle of the souks amidst the chaos, suddenly appears this quiet, enchanting space to spend a little time recharging your batteries.

    In the heart of this magical oasis, there is a decorative pagoda to sit in the shade and recollect your thoughts.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Jardin Secret boasts two attractive large gardens. One containing a range of plants from around the world, the other a traditional geometric Islamic garden. It also has one of the highest towers in the medina with panoramic views.

    There is also a museum, a boutique, and two coffee shops on site if you want to enjoy a drink or a few light refreshments sitting in the sunshine.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Jardin Secret dates back 400 years ago to the Saadian dynasty and was left to decay before being discovered and renovated in the nineteenth century. It is a prime example of the beauty of Islamic art and architecture, and you can find out more about its history inside the museum.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The gardens are simply beautiful with Cacti, palm trees, and other exotic plants, flowers, and shrubs. There is a small pond with resident toads and turtles who sit basking on the rocks to the delight of passing tourists. The harmonious sound of birdsong allows you to feel like you’re a world away from the busy souks outside the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of benches dotted around the gardens for you to sit and enjoy the tranquillity and beauty that surrounds you, sitting here peacefully, you forget you are still inside the busy medina, dodging motorcycles, tourists, and donkeys.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    To get the most peaceful experience from your visit to Le Jardin Secret, I suggest arriving early in the daytime before the gardens become too busy with other tourists.

    Le Jardin Secret is located at 121 Rue Mouassine Marrakech 40030 Morocco. Opening times may vary depending on the time of year.It costs 100 dirhams to enter, and the gardens are wheelchair user-friendly.

    The cafes serve sandwiches, pizzas, and salads. They also offer hot and cold beverages, including juice, smoothies, tea, coffee, and a selection of delicious homemade cakes.

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  • Jamaa El Fna At Sunset.

    Experience the heartbeat of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you think that Jamaa El Fna  is a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set. Gone are the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, to be replaced by open-air restaurants, gnawa musicians, gambling, and exotic dancers.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The scene is organised chaos and a complete sensory overload. The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted. The drumming becomes intense as the main square takes on the image of a huge fair ground.

    Thousands of people from all over the city and beyond come together to meet each other, alongside tourists all vying for space to watch the spectacle unfold. The exciting atmosphere is electric and pulsates with energy.

    Street vendors looking for potential customers pursue you with menus as you try to navigate your way through the crowds. They hop in front of you, and you have to dodge them like you are taking part in some sort of assault course.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    The aroma from camel heads cooking on a spit drifts across the square, and fresh snails being plucked from their shells becomes a familiar sight.

    Although the scene is very intense, it is also magnetic and exciting. I love the energy in Jamaa El Fna after dusk, but some people find it too overwhelming. They prefer to sit at the edge of the square, away from the crowds, and watch everything from a safe distance with a drink.

    Jamaa El Fnaa at dusk is unlike anything else you may have experienced. There is so much to see.There are games being played, and a few little scams are taking place to try and trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around the cafe de France, chatting with each other over coffee. Families wander around the stalls that are brightly lit up and open until late. Young men enjoy kicking a football against the walls of the medina, and couples sit on benches chatting to each other in the warm evening air.

    Sugarcane and fruit juice are sold by lively vendors, and the banter is all done in high spirits. Tourists dine on rooftop terraces as the Koutoubia mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes electrifying.The square is transformed into a social hub where anything is possible and everything appears to take place at the same time. It’s an incredible experience.

    Dazzling bright lights from the open air food vendors and Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets give off a warm, inviting glow. The heady fragrance from incense cones competes with the smell of food cooking, each wafting through the air on a gentle breeze.

    Henna ladies sit waiting for unsuspecting tourists and then grab their arms in an attempt to sell them a tattoo. They tell you,”It’s a gift,” but don’t you dare to walk away without paying once they’ve applied it.

    You can hear the sound of the gnawa musicians playing dressed in their brightly coloured clothing, belly dancers perform, and acrobats show off their skills to the gathering crowd of curious onlookers, you can’t escape the mayhem. After all, the famous Jamaa El Fnaa is the heartbeat of the city, and it draws you in because it’s a special place and there’s nowhere else quite like it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Jamaa El Fna magnetises you. The chaos that surrounds you is an assault on the senses. It’s an experience, an education, and a head-first dive into the rich culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although there’s so much going on after dusk, please be mindful when stopping to take photos. Someone in the thick of the action will be eagle eyed enough to catch you. They are continuously on the lookout for tourists who have stopped to watch. They will pounce upon you from out of nowhere, with a cap in their hand expecting a donation.

    After sunset, it’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play in Jamaa El Fna, and they are determined to have a good time. It’s a sight to behold, lively, energetic, colourful, aromatic, and incredibly loud. Be sure to visit this remarkable place and witness what it is that makes Marrakech so magical. It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid any obvious scams.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Maison Culturelle Du Tapis.

    Learn about the history of Berber carpet weaving.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Maison Culturelle du Tapis is tucked away in the souks and a place you must see if you’re in Marrakech. It’s a museum containing a remarkable exhibition of Berber carpets and a journey through the ancestral history of the tribes who created them. Beautiful carpets are draped along the walls of this boutique museum, each one made by different tribes and eras in Moroccan history.

    Situated deep within the medina at 16-18 Derb Deffa Ourbaa, it’s slightly hidden, but the vendors in the souk will point you in the right direction if you struggle to find it.

    The museum is a fascinating walk through the history of traditional carpet weaving, and some of them on display are generations old. They have been beautifully preserved, and each one is a testimony to Moroccos weaving heritage.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Every room of this tastefully restored 17th century riad invites you to look at each different region’s identity, from the Atlas Mountains to Rabat. You get to learn the meanings of Berber symbols and the specific colours each tribe used when weaving their carpets. Each carpet is unique and tells its own story.

    There are descriptions to help you appreciate the work that goes into creating each piece, including a detailed history about the Berber tribes who produced them. There’s also an interesting video showing you the process of creating the carpets and the history of the Berber women who spend months skillfully weaving each piece.

    On the first floor, you will find a workshop where you can have a go at making a small tapestry to take away with you. This is a two hour activity and ideal for families.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the treasures on display in the museum is the Rabat carpet, a symbol of royal elegance renowned for its rich decoration and finery.

    The museum also houses a collection of exquisite rare 20th-century carpets and modern contemporary pieces.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A visit to this delightful place was a nice break for me from the densely packed medina, and I would thoroughly recommend stopping by to have a look around it.

    There’s a small shop inside the museum selling rugs, cushion covers, and bags with   pieces of woven tapestry stitched into the centre. They are the perfect souvenir or gift to take home with you.

    After exploring the museum, you can relax on the pretty rooftop terrace, where you’ll find a nice cafe to have a light snack, homemade pastries, or a drink. The views across the medina from up here are incredible.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The museum is open from 10.00 am until 6.00pm and there’s a small entrance fee. It’s definitely worth every dirham to delve into the rich, cultural ancestry of the Amazigh and learn about their exceptional carpet weaving skills. Highly recommended.

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  • Riad Persephone.

    A riad overlooking Jemaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Persephone is a large riad located close to Jamaa El Fna. It has a cobalt blue courtyard with lush green plants and a large swimming pool. The colour of the walls is similar to the colour of Le Jardin Marjorelle. It looks beautiful against the foliage and zellige tiles.

    There is a large rooftop with plenty of seating areas and a warm jacuzzi for guests to use. It looks pretty in the evening with all the lamps lit. The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the sounds of everything happening there until late at night.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    My room was on the rooftop. It was decorated in a saffron colour with decorative mirrors and a small private courtyard. The stained glass windows are a feature in riad Persephone. The boho decor is flattering.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For some, the close proximity to the main square may be perfect. However, if you’re a light sleeper, you may find the early morning call to pray loud. The noise from the square may be problematic late at night. The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning. I would recommend taking ear plugs, especially if you have a room on the rooftop terrace.

    Riad Persephone has a rustic charm and has maintained its character. It also has a sister riad further away in the medina called Riad Roxanne.

    Riad Persephone is popular due to its strategic location and the view of Jamaa El Fnaa. It is close to plenty of restaurants, including Le Salama, L’Mdina, and Le Marrakchi. The staff at the riad can  organise activities, such as quad biking and a visit to Agafay desert. There is also a hammam with a massage service.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    If you’re looking for a riad with attractive surroundings close to all the action, Riad Persephone is perfect. On the other hand, if you prefer a quiet, relaxing atmosphere on the rooftop, this riad may not be the best choice. The constant hustle and bustle overrides the peaceful serenity.

    Overall, Riad Persephone is aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. The pool is nice, and the warm jacuzzi is popular with guests. I enjoyed the breakfast it was a typical Moroccan breakfast and very substantial. The location is good and easy to find.

    It is a large riad with a lot of steps up to the rooftop terrace, so it may not be ideal  for people with mobility issues.

    The address for Riad Persephone is 17 Derb Zaari. Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • Riad Dombaraka

    An oasis in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Dombaraka feels like an oasis inside the walls of the medina. It has a peaceful courtyard with beautiful tall trees and lush foliage. There is a small pool for guests to cool down in, which has an exercise bike in the centre. Birds sing in the treetops, and the setting is calm and serene.

    Riad Dombaraka is tastefully decorated and includes elegant paintings and furniture. There are African artefacts and oriental influences throughout the rooms. There is a library with books for guests to read. This is a relaxing area furnished with leather seats, lamps, and Moroccan furniture.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop terrace is tiered, offering great views across the city. There are plenty of spaces to sit and relax and sunbeds for soaking up some sun. The area is quiet, and the only sound is the call to prayer.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Dombaraka is owned by a French woman called Dominique. She gives guests the warmest welcome when they arrive. She suggests places where they can eat and visit and will order tuktuks to take them there.

    The breakfast at Riad Dombaraka was excellent. There are msemen pancakes, eggs, fresh fruit, yoghurt and cakes. The coffee was real coffee and gave me the boost I needed to motivate me in the morning.

    Riad Dombaraka is a hidden gem. It is located down a few winding alleyways where locals sell vegetables and fish, giving me a picture of authentic morroccan life. I felt safe in the area despite it appearing run down. There is evidence of the catastrophic earthquake that took place in Marrakech in 2023 and ongoing work to restore the area. Behind the door of the riad was a different world. One that is calm and peaceful.

    Riad Dombaraka has good value for money. It is stylish and elegant, yet manages to maintain its traditional character and charm. Personal touches, such as offering guests gratuitous water and making them a pot of mint tea, make all the  difference in this riad. I would definitely recommend staying here.

    I appreciated the tranquillity of the courtyard and the way guests are made a priority. The attention to detail and the impeccable cleanliness were also impressive. Staff looked happy to be part of a friendly and professional team and always had big smiles.

    Relaxing by the side of the pool, listening to the gentle background music playing, you would never know the busy souks are a stones throw away.

    Riad Dombaraka is not far from Ben youssef Madrasa, Marrakech Museum, and the Spice square. The address is 47.Derb El Qadi medina. Medina Azbezt 40030.

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  • Riad Zouhour.

    A riad with a pretty rooftop terrace.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Zouhour is a captivating riad in a strategic position in the medina. The blue and white zellige tiles, intricately carved wooden doors, and ornate window frames showcase the character of this traditional riad. Simply put, it is stunning.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop terrace is a peaceful oasis with flowers, citrus trees, and tropical plants. Creatively designed seating areas invite you to sit and admire the tranquil surroundings. There is also a small pool for cooling off in, kept spotlessly clean. You can tell this riad is a labour of love. The attention to detail is a credit to the owner, and the  rooftop garden is nothing short of paradise.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooms in Riad Zouhour are spacious. They are light and airy, with sunlight streaming through the windows. Large private bathrooms contain fragrant products, adding a personal touch. The whole riad feels very luxurious.

    The food is also very good. I ate dinner here and it was excellent. The riad provides a typical Moroccan breakfast that is substantial enough to fill you until lunchtime.

    The staff are attentive and kind, going out of their way to make you feel welcome. The atmosphere was relaxed and professional, and I felt very comfortable here.

    Although Riad Zouhour exudes luxury, it’s affordable. It’s in a good location close to all the action, yet inside the walls, it is peaceful, and still. It’s easy to see why Riad Zouhour is popular.

    The address for Riad Zouhour is 33 Derb Snane, Medina 40000 Marrakech Morocco. Check-in time is 00:00 until 23.30 hours, and Check-out time is 5.00 until 00:00. 

    Like most of the riads in the medina, they are happy to organise excursions for you.

    This is a riad I would highly recommend. It has been beautifully restored whilst keeping all of its original charm. I enjoyed my stay here, and I wouldn’t hesitate to come back. It is a peaceful oasis in the busy medina. A haven of tranquillity where guests are made to feel valued. Riad Zouhour is one of those places you just don’t want to leave.

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  • Riyadh Al Moussika

    Home to Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was fortunate to stay at Riyadh Al Moussika once home to the Pasha of Marrakech. The two impressive courtyards were a haven of peace and tranquillity each morning. The sound of birdsong and the gentle trickle of water from the fountains was a lovely way to begin each day.

    In one courtyard, there is a large pool with elegant seating around both sides. In the second, there are traditional zellige tiled fountains and water features. The interior decor resembles a calm oasis and includes an extravagant dining room with tasteful Moroccan and European furnishings.

    The riad is a popular Italian restaurant called Pepe Nero. When the restaurant opens at lunchtime, music is playing, but during the afternoon, between 4 and 6, it becomes peaceful again.

    The evenings can be livelier, so earplugs are a must if you retire to bed early. The tempo of the music is louder and can be heard in the guests’ rooms. I didn’t find this an issue because once the restaurant closes at 11.30, it soon becomes quiet again.

    Riyadh Al Moussika has been beautifully renovated. The rooms are spacious, and the blue suite is grand enough for royalty. I stayed in the single room. It was adequate and included all the amenities I required for a comfortable stay. Although rooms in riads are quite dark to keep them cool, this is part of their authenticity.

    Riyadh Al Moussika is aesthetically pleasing. There are exotic plants, including palms and pretty bougainvillaea, draping over the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop terrace is separated into private areas for guests. There are sun loungers and foliage in large clay pots. It’s a large space with views of the Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The afternoons in Riyadh Al Moussika were very relaxing. I appreciated listening to the sound of the fountain trickling into the clear pool surrounded by lush green foliage. Gentle background music added to the feeling of stillness, and it was such a calm setting.

    The location of Riyadh Al Moussika is excellent. It is in a quiet area with a small carpark close by. There are several restaurants and cafes  a short walk away, including Mandala Society. There is a hammam with a great rooftop restaurant called Les Bains Kenaria nearby.

    The staff at the riad were very professional.They were helpful and polite at all times. Despite this being a busy restaurant, they were always available for their guests. Complimentary water and mint tea were offered to guests each day, which added a nice personal touch.

    The breakfast was a hearty start to each morning. It was a typically sweet Moroccan breakfast with the option of having an omelette. Msemen pancakes, cheese, fruit, yoghurt, fresh orange juice, and coffee were served in the restaurant courtyard.

    I really enjoyed my stay in Riyadh Al Moussika and would highly recommend it. The music is something to bear in mind if you would like to retire to bed early. However, for a solo traveller, it reduces that feeling of isolation you sometimes struggle with. Taking a pair of earplugs helped.

    The excellent service and glamorous environment made up for any minor inconvenience caused by the bustling restaurant vibe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riyadh Al Moussika can be located at 62 Derb Boutouil, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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