Tag: morocco

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • Five Things I Love And Hate About Marrakech.

    My 5 favourite and not so favourite things about Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is ‘my happy place’.

    It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Gueliz and Hivernage, the new part of the city.

    Visitors may find Marrakech is an assault on the senses.

    The lively sights, sounds, and smells of Jamaa El Fna can be overly stimulating for even the most seasoned of travellers.

    However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech because it’s part of the charm of the city and is just as exciting as it is chaotic.

    I have made a list of the 5 things that I love and hate about this fascinating city..

    The 5 things I dislike are;

    1.

    If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.

    The monkeys on chains and the snake  charmers that  encourage you to have a photo taken with them are difficult for me to accept.

    I wouldn’t encourage this.

    The monkies have been brought down from their natural habitat in the Atlas mountains.

    Although local people need to make a living somehow, they clearly don’t want to be chained up for hours every day dressed in tutus and nappies.

    Then there are the horses, taking tourists through the busy traffic and the donkeys pulling heavey laden carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.

    The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.

    The donkeys look overworked and neglected.

    It’s the culture of Marrakech, but very different from what I’m used to.

    I can’t criticise an age-old way of life or impose my beliefs onto another culture, but I did struggle with it the first time I visited Marrakech.

    I avoided eye contact with the  snake charmers and monkeys on chains, and eventually, they stopped approaching me.

    There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of many of the riads.

    They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring towards them as a rule.

    If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.

    2.

    Queueing at the airport.

    Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so you have to accept it.

    Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.

    You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.

    Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.

    Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.

    3.

    Marrakech is touristy.

    The narrow alleyways in the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.

    Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.

    Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it may feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.

    Tip: Plan to visit in January or November when it’s quieter.

    It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.

    There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will be able to get that perfect photo opportunity, and the queues will be shorter.

    Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors without asking for permission first. They don’t feel comfortable about being photographed and may ask for money off you.

    4.

    The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks is thick and heavy.

    The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.

    This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.

    There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get too busy.

    Around 9 is an ideal time.

    There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.

    Pollution is fairly bad in Marrakech, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.

    5.

    The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.

    During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.

    This includes locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.

    The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors will persistently shove the menu in your face to get your custom.

    Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries occasionally.

    It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations

    The henna ladies also vy for your custom.

    It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them telling you that it’s a gift.

    After they’ve finished they’ll ask for money from you and it can get quite heated.

    Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to show too much interest with any of the vendors.

    Politely saying “La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.

    It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.

    Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.

    Whilst it’s sometimes difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors calling out to you for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive is very real.

    Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.

    So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’

    I am absolutely in love with this city.

    Here’s why…

    1.

    The people are wonderful.

    You can expect to meet the friendliest,most welcoming people you have ever met.

    They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.

    They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.

    They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.

    Many of the people of Marrakech identity as Amazigh, and their culture is fascinating.

    The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the staff in the riads go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.

    I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.

    They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard.

    The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.

    They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after an exhilarating experience outside the walls of the riad.

    I have written a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.

    2.

    The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship around Marrakech.

    If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful, vibrant colours, you will be in paradise in the Souks.

    You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products

    You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items in their designated areas.

    Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.

    Just be prepared to bargain.

    3.

    The food is delicious.

    There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.

    There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.

    The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.

    I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.

    The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.

    Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in

    It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.

    Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.

    Tangia is a pot of meat, usually lamb or beef, that’s cooked in the embers of the local Hammam.

    It’s left to cook for several hours until it’s really tender.

    There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found in the main square, Jamaa El Fna.

    This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists.

    Also, a few restaurants sell camel burgers if you’re feeling adventurous.

    Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer, and many of the restaurants around the medina are absolutely stunning inside.

    I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee if you’re a coffee lover.

    There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.

    You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.

    4.

    The architecture is absolutely stunning.

    There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely exquisite.

    Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.

    The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.

    I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,

    . Bahia Palace.

    . Madrasa Ben Youssef.

    . The saadian Tombs.

    . The Koutoubia Mosque.

    . The Secret Garden.

    . Bacha Museum.

    . Marrakech Museum

    Big wooden doorways around the medina are an example of the amazing craftsmanship that Marrakech is known for.

    Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.

    5.

    Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places

    I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.

    I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..

    There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience a boat ride and feed the monkeys.

    You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.

    If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.

    Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.

    Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.

    Here are a few other things to take into consideration..

    Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.

    Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.

    I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.

    Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.

    Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity, a place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet  perfectly functional, a place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,

    Then Marrakech is for you.

    I would recommend doing a little bit of research before you visit.

    Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge so that you will know what to expect.

    That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will remain with you forever.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • When Is The Best Time For Visiting Marrakech?

    I’ve put together a few helpful tips to help you decide.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is an all year round destination.

    It has a high desert climate, so it is pleasant all year round.

    During the summer months, temperatures can reach a staggering 45°C or higher, which a lot of visitors find unbearably hot.

    The Winter months can be moderately warm and sunny, feeling chillier in the evenings.

    I suggest the best time to go is during the spring, from March till May or in autumn, from September till November.

    Springtime sees warm, sunny weather, and you can still dine on the rooftops in the evening.

    I would recommend taking a lightweight jacket or jumper to throw on as temperatures can drop after sunset.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    March is the wettest month experiencing 12mm of rain over a day and the occasional storm.

    Be prepared by carrying an umbrella and wearing sensible footwear.

    June is the driest month with 1mm of rainfall over one day but temperatures in June and July do tend to soar.

    This might make excursions and activities more uncomfortable if you’re walking around in that kind of heat.

    Suncream is essential whichever time of year you decide to visit because you can not underestimate the power of the hot Moroccan sun.

    Carrying bottled water with you is important too so that you don’t become dehydrated.

    If you prefer going when there are fewer tourists, I would suggest January to February.

    The climate is sunny, with average highs of 19°C and lows of 6°C during the evening.

    This would be the ideal time to visit if you’re put off by huge crowds and long queues at popular sightseeing destinations.

    Another thing to consider is that Ramadan takes place between February and April, so some stores and restaurants may be closed.

    Many do stay open, but the vibe can feel slightly different.

    I choose to visit in late March and late September or early October.

    The Jacaranda trees along the main roads in Gueliz look really beautiful, and the air is really fragrant at this time of year.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    March can be quite hot, but heavy thunderstorms are also frequent.

    The sky can look very dramatic and holds its own kind of beauty just before a storm.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Springtime can still be very busy with tourists, and the souks are lively and bustling with excitement.

    For me, that is part of the fun, but for some people, the crowds can be overwhelming.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    September can be humid.

    I found it more challenging to walk around the palaces and stand in long queues in the humidity.

    Between 3.00pm and 7.00pm becomes particularly warm and sticky, so try to get most of your sightseeing done in the early morning.

    Afternoons can be a good time to relax by the pool or take a nap in your hotel or riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is sunny and warm all year round, and if you do decide to visit during the summer months, here are a few suggestions to help you cope with the heat.

    Plan to visit tourist attractions in the morning as soon as they open.

    If you pre book, you will avoid waiting in long queues in the heat, and there will be fewer people around.

    Pace yourself.

    You don’t have to rush around. Many places stay open quite late in the evening.

    Alternate between sightseeing and finding places in the shade to have a long rest with a cool drink to avoid too much sun exposure. There are plenty of beautiful spots with banana trees and beautiful tall palms to relax beneath.

    Wear natural fibres like cotton or linen clothing.

    They are breathable and perfect for wearing in hot weather. Choose loose clothing that covers your arms and shoulders. They allow the air to circulate and help to evaporate sweat, keeping you cooler.

    I have written a separate article on suitable clothing for Marrakech.

    Stay hydrated.

    Carry bottled water at all times to keep yourself from dehydrating.There are plenty of little kiosks dotted around the medina selling reasonably priced water.

    Check the seals before purchasing for peace of mind.

    Plan to do more during the evening when it’s cooler.

    Some of the tours begin later in the day, and trips to Agafay desert begin just before sunset.

    The square comes alive in the evening, so most of the souks are still trading until late because people are still present.

    Wear high factor sunblock and keep your head covered.

    The sun can be pretty fierce, even as early as March.

    Visit the water slides of Oasiria.

    Take advantage of the air conditioning available and consider taking an afternoon nap.

    Visiting the Sahara desert will be blisteringly hot in summertime.  Consider going in the cooler months when days are still warm but not unbearable.

    Remember, evenings get cold in the desert.

    Marrakech is a wonderful city all year round.

    If you follow these simple rules, you should have an enjoyable visit whichever time of year you decide to travel.

    It’s about planning your trip beforehand.

    Consider what it is you want from your experience.

    Are you put off by crowds of tourists all crammed into the souks at the same time?

    Can you handle the extreme heat, or would you prefer the cooler temperatures in December or January?

    Whichever time you decide to travel to Marrakech, the locals are always smiling, and there’s always plenty to do and see..

    I recommend reading my article about visiting Marrakech in winter for tips about travelling in the cooler season.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • Bacha Coffee.

    Calling all coffee lovers,this place is an absolute gem.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    With over 200 different coffees to choose from, Bacha Coffee is a coffee lovers paradise.

    From the exuberant interior with beautifully tiled floors and exotic plants to the finely dressed waiters in their elegant uniforms, Bacha Coffee is a wonderful experience.

    The service is impeccable, and the coffee from all over the world is incredible.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Visiting Bacha Coffee is an absolute treat.

    You do have to wait quite a long time for a table, but you can wander around the museum with its beautiful garden and Islamic architecture whilst you wait.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    You are given a bleeper to notify you when your table is ready.

    Once you are seated inside, you are free to take your time to paw over the extensive menu. The choice of coffee available makes it incredibly difficult to choose.

    I eventually decided to go with a Caribbean coffee from the Blue Mountains, and it didn’t disappoint.

    It was smooth aromatic and had a subtly sweet flavour.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It came served in beautiful little cups with fresh cream, chocolate chips, vanilla pods, and an assortment of other delights to enhance the taste of the coffee.

    I also had a slice of cake, which was delicately spiced and tasted wonderful.

    My tastebuds were in heaven.

    I  now wish to try every coffee on the menu, so I’ve promised myself I will go back again and again until I have.

    That’s a lot of coffee.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The only downside to Bacha Coffee is that due to its popularity, the queues can be very long. 

    I suggest arriving early around 9.30 am when they first open and join the queue outside.

    It’s worth the wait for the quality of food being served and the stunning decor.

    The breakfast is excellent, and I will definitely be trying it next time I visit.

    Hopefully, I can make my way through the hundreds of coffees on offer from around the world.

    I’m certainly up for trying.

    Bacha Coffee is worth visiting just to capture those perfect Instagram photos regardless of the excellent food and coffee.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is also a shop where you can buy coffee and other beautiful things like cups and  condiment containers to take home with you.

    It’s the perfect gift for someone special.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Opening hours are,

    Tuesday-Sunday 10.00am-6.00pm

    The address is,

    Dar el Bacha, Rte Sidi

    Abdelaziz Marrakech 40000

    Morocco

    Bacha Coffee is in a nice area of Marrakech surrounded by plenty of  good shops.

    I would recommend anyone visiting Marrakech to come and see for themselves.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)
  • Staying In A Traditional Riad.

    Immerse yourself in the culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Everyone visiting Marrakech should stay in a traditional riad at least once.

    If you want a taste of  authentic Moroccan life, spending time in a riad inside the walls of the medina will give you one.

    Traditional zellige tiles and the sound of trickling water from the ornate fountain in the central courtyard is just a small part of what riad life has to offer.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riads are the homes once lived in by the well-to-do of Marrakech.

    Whole families lived inside them, and they offered a private, secluded place, especially for the women in the family.

    They are built around a central courtyard with the windows facing inwards and have citrus and palm trees in the centre, reaching up through the open rooftop.

    Many have a small pool for cooling off in, and most of them still have their original fountain from when they were first constructed.

    The rooftop can be reached by climbing the steep tiled steps.

    You will be greeted by a vibrantly coloured seating area where you can escape from the heat and admire the incredible views over the medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The interior rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber artefacts, which include colourful rugs, cushions, and exquisitely handcrafted furniture.

    Many riads around the medina have been purchased by Westerners, renovated and refurbished to appeal to the ever growing influx of tourists.

    A lot of riads still maintain their original appearance, and staying in one is like being immersed in a tale from ‘1001 nights’

    Some of the original tiles from hundreds of years ago have been brought back to life, and they exude charm and character.

    High-end riads are also  beautiful and rather luxurious.

    They include bidets and television sets in the rooms.

    All riads are charming, and it all depends on whether you favour luxury over authenticity.

    My choice of riad is a family owned property, one that still has it’s old world charm and feels as though I’m staying with a Moroccan family.

    Like a tale from an ‘Arabian Nights’ adventure, a testimony to the beauty of Islamic architecture and craftsmanship.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Most riads cook delicious home cooked food for their guests and offer cooking lessons.

    There is also a hammam and massage service available in most riads.

    This is a wonderful experience, and something everyone who comes to Marrakech should indulge in at least once.

    Rooms in a riad are usually slightly dark inside.

    This keeps them cool in the summer when temperatures can exceed 50°

    Some of the windows have intricate screens from when the riad was a harem to keep the women private and secluded.

    Waking up to the sound of birds singing in the trees and the gentle flowing of water burbling from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day.

    The early morning sunshine reflecting off the beautifully tiled floors puts me in such a happy mood.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Most riads provide their guests with a hearty breakfast, which is sweeter than we are used to in the west.

    Some staff cook omelettes, and there is always fresh orange juice and homemade yoghurts and jams served with traditional bread.

    The msemen pancakes served with honey and amlou are my absolute favourite.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I love sunbathing on the rooftop, listening to the call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque.

    If you’re staying near Jamaa El Fna,you can hear the gnawa musicians and the drumming in the distance.

    This is a true immersion in the culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    In the evening, I like to watch the sunset from the rooftop.

    At dusk, Jamaa El Fnaa comes alive with thousands of visitors.

    You can hear the vendors calling out to beckon tourists into their food stalls.

    The aroma of the food cooking catches your breath.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Back in the courtyard, you feel as though you are in an oasis.

    This calm and peaceful environment is a far cry from what is happening outside the big, heavy wooden door of the riad.

    The sound of  gentle music plays quietly in the  background, creating a sense of tranquillity.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Staff at the riad can suggest places where you can eat and also arrange popular excursions for their guests.

    They are eager to please and go above and beyond the call of duty.

    For me, staying in a traditional riad has a more intimate feeling than a hotel.

    I like to spend a few days having what I call, a riad experience, and enjoying the culture of Marrakech like a true local.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Whether it’s a former palace or a family owned business, staying in a riad is one of the most authentic experiences you can have when you come to Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    (more…)