The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: Morrocco

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • Is Marrakech Safe For Solo Female Travellers?

    Safety tips for women travelling alone to Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is safe for women who travel alone.

    The overall crime rate is low, and most female travellers have a wonderful experience. However, there are certain things to take into consideration to help you feel confident and comfortable during your visit.

    Women in Marrakech dress modestly. How you want to be treated will depend on how you present yourself. Although Marrakech is a Muslim city, it is quite liberal and used to tourists, but showing too much flesh would be considered inappropriate.Whilst you’re not expecting to adopt the hijab, you will certainly be regarded favourably if you dress slightly more conservatively especially in religious places sacred to the Islamic faith.

    Wear dresses below the knees. Silk, rayon, or cotton dresses are perfect and keep you cool at the same time. Palazzo trousers are also very comfortable and elegant. I like to wear turbans, I love the fact that my hair is tucked away, keeping me cool and looking modest at the same time. Many tourists continue to wear the same style of clothing that they would back at home, so it’s really a matter of choice. I would certainly encourage dressing appropriately if you’re visiting religious sites, just as a matter of respect. You’ll notice how much a small gesture like this makes the locals happy.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The people in Marrakesh are friendly and hospitable. However, there may be times when you will be asked if you need help to find your riad or the main square. Simply decline the offer politely and go about your business.

    When shopping in the medina, stand your ground when negotiating for something. Show the vendors that you are confident and not be afraid to walk away if you’re not happy with the price. They may try to drive a harder bargain if they see a woman unaccompanied and you don’t have to put up with this. Shop around or visit a fixed price store or Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex, and you won’t have to bargain.

    Some men will cat call you or make comments, which may feel slightly intrusive. Ignore them and move away. They are usually harmless, but if anyone trys to follow you, find the nearest shop vendor or closest restaurant to sit in. If they still persist, threaten to find a police officer. It’s rare that this happens, and there are police everywhere around Marrakech, making sure that tourists are not hassled in any way.

    Knowing a few words in Arabic or French is always useful. Non merci or La Shukran means no thank you and will automatically bring a smile to the locals’ faces. It also comes in useful for shaking off food sellers and henna ladies in the main square.

    I have never felt uncomfortable as a solo female traveller in Marrakech. There are plenty of us about wandering through the souks and enjoying the tourist hot spots.

    Consider joining a guided tour of the medina if you’re feeling anxious about exploring by yourself, especially if it’s your first time. There are evening tours, street food tours, and plenty of registered guides available for visiting the local attractions.

    Marrakech is a great place  for a solo female traveller to visit. In fact, I consider it much safer than many other countries I have been to. The locals can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city, and they’re some of the most hospitable people I have ever met. Just educate yourself a little about the cultural norms and differences in Morocco and respect the local customs and traditions, and you should be perfectly safe.

    Marrakech is very touristy, so there are always crowds of people wherever you go.Just be extra vigilant in busy, congested areas with your belongings, the same way you would be anywhere else in the world.

    If you want to feel less isolated as a solo female traveller, there are a few excellent hostels in Marrakech that attract a lot of solo travellers. They are great places to stay and they can organise tours where you will meet other like-minded people.

    Lastly, relax and trust that the people of Marrakech are helpful and kind. You will definitely have an exciting time.

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  • The Best Clothing To Take To Marrakech.

    Helpful tips to help you decide what clothes to pack .

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech can get very hot in summer, and temperatures can exeed 40° Celsius.

    Even the cooler months can feel warm and humid, especially walking around the busy souks and popular points of interest.Marrakech is also a conservative city with a majority Muslim population. The locals are extremely hospitable, but respect is a big thing in Marrakech.

    So, what should you wear to feel comfortable yet still appear respectable?

    For female visitors, I would suggest palazzo trousers. These are flowing and elegant, keeping you nice and cool.They pair well with smart cotton blouses and can be worn underneath a silk kimono, adding a touch of glamour.Lightweight cotton or linen trousers also look smart, and neutral colours give a sophisticated, modest appearance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Silk (including recycled sari silk) maxi dresses are very versatile and keep you cool. They can be worn with a drawstring sari petticoat underneath for modesty if the dress is sheer. Linen is perfect and always looks polished.It can get slightly creased, so I would suggest bringing along a portable steamer. They’re a life-saver and take up very little space in your suitcase.However, most accommodation has an ironing and laundry service at your disposal.

    Cotton tee-shirts and blouses are ideal and can look very flattering with the right accessories. Loose yoga pants are also perfect for a day exploring. They help you to stay cool and comfortable.

    Headscarves look fashionable and can be used as a head covering whilst visiting  religious sites or as a convenient wrap around for covering your shoulders.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I like to wear turbans to cover my locs.They keep my head and neck cool, and at the same time, I feel put together and tidy. Silk scarves can be rolled up really small and fit perfectly in your bag. They are versatile and can be used as a hair tie, head covering, or pretty accessory.

    Marrakech is definitely more liberal than other morroccan cities. However, exposing too much flesh is definitely frowned upon. You may attract unwanted attention from both males and females, spoiling your overall experience and making you feel self-conscious.How you present yourself will determine the kind of experience you have in Marrakesh.

    In your accommodation, it’s perfectly acceptable to wear shorts and swimwear for sunbathing, so pack those items of clothing also.

    Males can wear knee-length shorts with linen or cotton short-sleeved shirts to look smart yet casual.Many high-end restaurants won’t accept men wearing sandals, but smart leather sliders or mules are usually acceptable. Linen or cotton long trousers for men are ideal and keep the body cool.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Men’s clothing is definitely more liberal than females. They don’t encourage the same kind of attention, but they are still expected to dress smartly when visiting certain places. I certainly wouldn’t advise a male to walk around without a shirt on, especially when visiting sacred places in Marrakech. That is something I would leave for a beach holiday. Appearing smartly dressed whilst feeling cool and comfortable is the only thing men need to consider.

    On the other hand, women are expected to respect the cultural norms of the country unless they’re going to the clubs in the Gueliz or Hivenage part of the city. It’s acceptable to dress a little more provocatively if you’re having a night out there.

    You can still look and feel good in appropriate clothing. It’s about choosing nice accessories to elevate your outfit. Marrakech has no shortage of beautiful jewellery and handbags.

    Regarding footwear, there is a lot of walking around the medina, so comfortable footwear is certainly essential.Trainers, pumps, or sandals are all acceptable.

    A little tip I found useful is to take  only a couple of outfits in my travel bag, and once I arrived, I bought the rest of my clothing in the souks. It wasn’t too expensive, and I felt as if I blended in with the locals better.I quite enjoyed wearing the traditional Moroccan dresses, kaftans, and djellabas for a change.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I have never needed to take a warm coat to Marrakech.

    Depending on the season and whether you plan a trip into the Atlas mountains or the Sahara desert, a lightweight weatherproof jacket is usually enough. I find that a shawl or cardigan has always been sufficient for cooler evenings.

    Winter in Marrakech is better suited to layers. A thin thermal skin that can be worn underneath a long dress or trousers is usually enough to protect from the drop in temperature. I also wear long sleeved tee-shirts underneath my dresses during the evenings. A comfortable hoodie or sweater can also come in handy. A trip to Agafay desert can get very blustery whilst watching the sunset in the open air.

    Keeping your eyes on the weather forecast before travelling will also help you to plan accordingly for your trip. If part of your itinerary includes a night in the Sahara desert, be aware that nighttime can be extremely cold.

    So, to summarise,

    Wearing comfortable clothing suitable for a day exploring the medina and tourist hot spots is the most important thing to consider. You will walk a lot, and it can get humid.

    To discourage unwanted attention from the locals, female travellers might prefer to dress more modestly unless they’re in the bars and clubs, which are more liberally minded. Choosing natural fibres is the best way to stay cool, and long, loose-fitting garments are ideal because they look modest and feminine.

    Lastly, don’t forget to bring the sunscreen.You don’t want to walk around looking like a lobster, and you can never underestimate the power of the hot Moroccan sun.

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  • Scams In Marrakech.

    A few tourist traps you should know about.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For first-time visitors to the red city, there are a few scams to be aware of.

    I have compiled a list of potential scams that you may encounter during your travels to Marrakech. These are simply opportunists trying to make a few dirhams from unsuspecting tourists who may be first-time visitors to the city. Once you become aware of these popular tricks, you will know how to avoid getting fleeced and what to do in the event of being approached by someone hoping to take advantage of you.

    1.

    The road is closed.

    This is a regular scam that can leave tourists confused.You’re trying to locate your riad or a point of interest, and someone (usually a young male) tells you that the road ahead is closed.He asks you your destination and offers to escort you via an alternative route.Before you know it, you’re wandering endlessly through the souks until you arrive at his friends shop.You’re still lost, and now you’re being offered mint tea whilst his friend brings out a multitude of exotic spices or rugs.The male who took you there gets a commission for safely delivering you there. Slightly more if you buy.

    If you’re approached in this way, a firm no thank you or La shoukran usually does the trick. If he is very persistent, head to a nearest trader, and ask their advice about whether the road is closed or not.Make your boundaries clear but remain polite and try not to get too impatient.It can be difficult if you’re tired or overwhelmed, but showing your weakness will only show how vulnerable you are feeling, and you may become a target for more opportunists.

    2.

    I can take you to your riad.

    When you first arrive in the medina, you are faced with a maze of alleyways and tunnels. Often, your riad will be tucked away inside the souks or down one of these alleyways, hidden from view. A tourist who looks as though they’re lost will invite the so-called ‘ helpful guide’ to your side who can show you exactly where you need to go. He will escort you, taking the long route to your riad, and then demand a payment from you.He may become quite persistent and insult you if you refuse to cough up.

    I was taken off guard seconds away from my riad. A young male basically nudged me along the narrow alleyway shoulder to shoulder. He demanded a payment, holding his hand out as I knocked on the door of my riad.I told him I wasn’t lost and knew where I was going and that I hadn’t requested his help. I stood my ground and ignored him until, eventually, the door opened, and I was let inside my riad.This can feel somewhat intimidating, but don’t give in. If you didn’t ask for help, you don’t need to give anyone any money.

    There are occasions when friendly locals really do want to genuinely help you find your way, and you will be grateful for their knowledge of the area,especially after a long flight.However, this is a common problem and can become irritating, to say the least, if you have luggage with you. Marrakech has a strong police presence, and all you need to do is remind pests about it. That often does the trick, and they soon back off.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    3.

    Over inflated prices for tourists.

    There is a price for the attractions around the medina for tourists and a price for Moroccan residents. This happens in many countries nowadays and you can’t protest much about it. On the other hand, prices for street food and things you might wish to purchase in the souks are often much higher than they should be. Learn to bargain with the vendors and try dropping the asked price to around 25% to begin with. Eventually, the pair of you will reach a price you’re both happy with.Haggling is an art form, and it takes time to feel confident, but it’s a way of life in Marrakesh and can be quite a rewarding experience when you manage to buy something for a fair price. If you’re not happy, shop around. There are plenty of places selling exactly the same goods around the souks. There is also a fixed price store called Dar Bouchaib in the kasbah and Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex near Cyber Park.

    4.

    Gambling games in Jamaa El Fna.

    During the evening, when the square comes to life, there are a few pockets of entertainment where gambling games take place. These are scams that involve winners working with the person in charge of the game.They impersonate curious onlookers and ask to take part. They obviously win, and a prize is exchanged. These are not genuine participants, and the likelihood of you winning a cash prize is virtually nil.

    5.

    Unofficial tour guides.

    Some tourists mentioned being approached by unofficial tour guides whilst visiting some of the attractions around the medina. Males who begin by asking where you’re from, then following you around telling you a brief history about attraction you’re visiting.After some time, they will ask you for a fee for their time and knowledge. If you want a genuine tour guide, check the website of the attraction you’re visiting or consider booking an activity through Get Your Guide or Booking.com, ayment is upfront, and the guides are registered and you also reserve the right to cancel. Your accommodation can also help you to book tours and activities.

    6.

    Overinflated taxi fares.

    A common scam that tourists mention is taxi drivers charging far too much. It’s a good idea to check with your accommodation how much you should be expected to pay and don’t accept the first price a driver offers you. Be prepared to bargain with him and try a different taxi driver if you’re still not happy. Grand taxis are shared taxis and much cheaper. If you are going further than Gueliz or back to the medina, consider a grand taxi instead. There is no Uber in Marrakech, and although they do have In Drive, you still have to bargain online with the driver, and more importantly, it’s actually illegal to use In Drive.

    I’ve covered all of the scams I’ve come across, but new ones may pop up as tourism continues to grow. Marrakech is an amazing destination with so much to see and do, and you may not experience any of the things I have mentioned.

    I have been incredibly lucky with taxi drivers. I have had positive experiences with and felt very safe whilst travelling back to my hotel in a remote area several times. The drivers have been very friendly and driven me straight through the gates so that I’ve not had to walk alone in the dark.

    As a rule, the locals in Marrakech are very friendly towards tourists, and they are  made to feel very welcome. However, poverty exists, and some people see tourists being much better off financially than they are and an easy target for extracting a few dirhams out of. My advice would be to make your boundaries clear from the beginning, get yourself some data by buying an Orange SIM for negotiating your way around the medina, and learn a few words of Arabic or French to help you to say no thank you.

    Like anywhere else in the world, keep your wits about you in crowded places, and try to stay patient, and you will have an incredible time in Marrakesh.

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  • Dar Bouchaib.

    A fixed price store in the Kasbah.

    Are you fed up with haggling each time you want to buy something? If so, there is a fixed price store in the Kasbah district where you won’t have to bargain. Here, you will find everything that’s for sale in the souks at a fixed price.

    On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.

    The perfumed oils are of a high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several together.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    On the first floor, there is handmade furniture, mirrors, vases, and other large items for the home. There is a huge selection of Berber rugs for sale, which can be shipped worldwide. The store is huge. It’s worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship that’s gone into creating everything on the upper floor.

    The staff at Dar Bouchaib are helpful. You can wander around the shop without any pressure to buy.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is an easy 15-minute walk from the main square. There are plenty of shops and  restaurants along the way. There are popular sightseeing  places in this part of the city, including Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.

    Dar Bouchaib can be found on Rue de La Kasbah Marrakech 40000. It’s open daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm. Bank holiday hours may differ, so check first before arriving.

    Although a big part of visiting Marrakech is shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling can be stressful. Not knowing how much you should be paying gives vendors the upper hand. Tourists often get overcharged. In contrast, Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof. The prices are fixed and reflect what you should be paying for each item.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Dar Bouchaib is a few steps away from the popular restaurant Krepchy. Cafe Zeitoune is also close by and a great place for lunch. It’s pedestrianised around the mosque, and there are plenty of benches.

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  • Bahia Palace.

    One of the most visited attractions in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Bahia Palace is a 19th-century palace in Marrakesh. It’s definitely a must-see if you’re visiting the city, as it is quite spectacular.

    The word Bahia means  ‘brilliance’ in Arabic, a reflection of the splendour of Islamic architecture and art. The rooms inside the Bahia Palace are beautifully decorated with sculpted stucco, zellige tiles, paintings, and mosaics to capture the essence and skill of divine craftsmanship. The intricately carved cedar wood ceilings are a testimony to the beauty and precision involved in the creation of such a spectacular palace.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The huge courtyard is one of the focal points of Bahia Palace. It is rather grand and very spacious with a fountain in the centre and intricate zellige tile work typical of Morroccan design and culture. All the doors open out into it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are approximately 150 rooms organised around multiple internal courtyards and riad gardens. The palace covers around two hectares.

    In 1956, when Morocco gained independence from the French, the palace became the residence of King Hassan II until it was later transferred to the Moroccan Ministry of Culture to serve as a cultural icon and tourist attraction. Bahia Palace has now become one of the most significant landmarks and tourist destinations in Marrakech, attracting 1000s of visitors.

    If you’re planning a visit, it is advisable to book tickets as queues can be extremely long. They cost 70 dirhams at the time of writing, and the palace is open between 8.00am-5.00pm daily.

    The gardens surrounding the palace are also impressive, with orange trees lining the route to the entrance. It’s worth having a wander around them after seeing the interior.

    I would suggest arriving as close to opening time as you possibly can to avoid the crowds. That way, you can spend time reading about the history of the palace before it becomes too busy, and you also have a better chance to capture a few photos of the internal chambers and exquisitely decorated rooms.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re visiting marrakech, the Bahia Palace will give you a good understanding of both Moroccan and Islamic culture and the architecture, art and craftsmanship that defines it.

    If you enjoy looking at Islamic architecture, you should also visit Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs in the Kasbah area of the city.

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  • The Saadian Tombs.

    A testimony to the opulence of the Saadian dynasty.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the most popular tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.

    The Saadian tombs have become a historical landmark dating back as far as the late sixteenth century. Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour and his family.

    The  mixture of Spanish and Moorish architecture is really impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and Italian Carrara marble.The main mausoleum is quite remarkable, with beautifully decorated ceilings and columns and there are usually very long queues waiting to see it. The Saadian tombs are very decadent with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles, showcasing the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.

    I recommend arriving early around opening time to avoid waiting too long to see the main mausoleum. Tourists can wait for over an hour in the heat, so make sure you have a bottle of water handy just in case.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs were hidden for centuries. They were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.

    Housing over 100 tombs with beautiful zellige tiles and marble columns, this royal necropolis was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour to honour his ancestors. The chamber of 12 columns is where the tombs of Ahmed al- Mansour and his successors are laid to rest. In the gardens lie the tombs of soldiers and servants. There is a smaller  tranquil chamber, which is called the Chamber of Three Niches.

    The Saadian Tombs are an example of Moroccos’ rich history and culture. They are in close proximity to El Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both are worth a visit if your you’re interested in Islamic art and architecture.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs are in the Kasbah next to the mosque, and the opening times are 9.00 am until 5.00pm daily. The price of entry at the time of writing is 100 dirhams.

    The Kasbah is located to the south of the medina.

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  • El Badi Palace.

    The ruins of an extravagant palace from the Saadian dynasty.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    El Badi Palace was built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour of the Saadian dynasty. The palace was built to showcase the considerable wealth of the Saadian dynasty and was a prime example of Islamic architecture and exquisite craftsmanship.

    Using both Moroccan and European influences, the palace was beautifully decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, marble arches, and ornate carvings. There were 300 rooms decorated in gold, turquoise, and crystal. It was also home to the sultans harem, which included over 500 women.

    When Meknes became the new capital city, the palace was completely stripped of all its materials and transported there to create a new palace.  After the death of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour in 1603, the palace fell into neglect. Now, only the ruins remain.

    El Badi is worth a visit if you want to learn about the history of Marrakech and the elite who ruled centuries ago.There is an interesting exhibition area containing the Almoravid Minbar, which is the finely decorated pulpit that once  stood inside the Koutoubia Mosque. The area also hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions. There are underground chambers that contain information and photographs about the history of the palace.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Unfortunately, the palace was badly damaged during the earthquake in 2023, and renovations have taken place to repair the cracks in the walls. It’s still a tranquil place to visit, and the huge courtyard feels very calm and peaceful. The storks nesting on top of the towers give it a mystical atmosphere.

    El Badi Palace is situated in the Kasbah district, which is to the south of the city. It is close to the Saadian tombs, an impressive burial site, and another place to visit to get an understanding of the history of Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Visiting this once opulent palace, you get a sense of the wealth and grandeur of the Saadian dynasty. There’s a feeling of tranquillity within its walls, and you appreciate its historical significance.

    El Badi Palace is open every day from 9.00am to 5.00pm and costs 100 dirhams to enter.

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  • Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex.

    Visit a fixed price arts and craft centre in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex is a government sponsored initiative for skilled artisans.

    A short walk away from Jamaa El Fna, opposite Cyber Park, is this unique space in Marrakech. Within the complex, you will find artisans creating beautiful artwork, including paintings, rugs, and pottery.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It was established for artisans to teach their work to apprentices, and it’s a more low-key shopping experience than the souks. The best artisans are picked to work here, and there is usually only one or two representing each speciality, unlike in the souks. There are wonderful examples of excellent craft work, including brass and copper crafts, lamps, leather work, musical instruments, and much more..

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Prices are fixed, and all the profit goes to the artisans.

    Shopping in this fascinating area gives you an idea of how much you should be charged for items in the souks. Some things here are slightly pricer, but you don’t have to bargain hard, and it’s a more relaxed shopping experience.

    Within the complex is a simple restaurant for food and drinks. It’s a cute waterhole to take a rest and admire the attractive setting. The tiled surroundings of Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex are very beautiful to look at and complimented by small green areas with plants.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is also calligraphy available. If you want a gift for someone, consider getting their name in Arabic printed onto a nice postcard.

    I enjoyed spending a couple of hours away from the hectic pace of the medina. The slow rhythmic tapping of skilled artisans at work was a nice change of pace. Watching the ladies demonstrate carpet weaving on a traditional loom was really interesting, and I was also invited to have a go.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex is located on Mohammed V Avenue. It’s about a 6 minute walk from the Jamaa El Fna. The times of opening are 9.30am until 7.00pm, with the exception of Sunday when they close at 2.00pm.

    I found a few lovely paintings to take home with me, which were painted by a local artist and beautifully handcrafted mirrors that caught my eye.

    Ensemble Artisanal Craft Complex is a perfect respite from the chaos of the medina and a wonderful spot to pick up a few lovely treasures whilst experiencing the local people showcasing their exceptional skills.

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  • Jamaa El Fna At Sunset.

    Experience the heartbeat of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you think that Jamaa El Fna  is a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set. Gone are the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, to be replaced by open-air restaurants, gnawa musicians, gambling, and exotic dancers.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The scene is organised chaos and a complete sensory overload. The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted. The drumming becomes intense as the main square takes on the image of a huge fair ground.

    Thousands of people from all over the city and beyond come together to meet each other, alongside tourists all vying for space to watch the spectacle unfold. The exciting atmosphere is electric and pulsates with energy.

    Street vendors looking for potential customers pursue you with menus as you try to navigate your way through the crowds. They hop in front of you, and you have to dodge them like you are taking part in some sort of assault course.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    The aroma from camel heads cooking on a spit drifts across the square, and fresh snails being plucked from their shells becomes a familiar sight.

    Although the scene is very intense, it is also magnetic and exciting. I love the energy in Jamaa El Fna after dusk, but some people find it too overwhelming. They prefer to sit at the edge of the square, away from the crowds, and watch everything from a safe distance with a drink.

    Jamaa El Fnaa at dusk is unlike anything else you may have experienced. There is so much to see.There are games being played, and a few little scams are taking place to try and trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around the cafe de France, chatting with each other over coffee. Families wander around the stalls that are brightly lit up and open until late. Young men enjoy kicking a football against the walls of the medina, and couples sit on benches chatting to each other in the warm evening air.

    Sugarcane and fruit juice are sold by lively vendors, and the banter is all done in high spirits. Tourists dine on rooftop terraces as the Koutoubia mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes electrifying.The square is transformed into a social hub where anything is possible and everything appears to take place at the same time. It’s an incredible experience.

    Dazzling bright lights from the open air food vendors and Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets give off a warm, inviting glow. The heady fragrance from incense cones competes with the smell of food cooking, each wafting through the air on a gentle breeze.

    Henna ladies sit waiting for unsuspecting tourists and then grab their arms in an attempt to sell them a tattoo. They tell you,”It’s a gift,” but don’t you dare to walk away without paying once they’ve applied it.

    You can hear the sound of the gnawa musicians playing dressed in their brightly coloured clothing, belly dancers perform, and acrobats show off their skills to the gathering crowd of curious onlookers, you can’t escape the mayhem. After all, the famous Jamaa El Fnaa is the heartbeat of the city, and it draws you in because it’s a special place and there’s nowhere else quite like it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Jamaa El Fna magnetises you. The chaos that surrounds you is an assault on the senses. It’s an experience, an education, and a head-first dive into the rich culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although there’s so much going on after dusk, please be mindful when stopping to take photos. Someone in the thick of the action will be eagle eyed enough to catch you. They are continuously on the lookout for tourists who have stopped to watch. They will pounce upon you from out of nowhere, with a cap in their hand expecting a donation.

    After sunset, it’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play in Jamaa El Fna, and they are determined to have a good time. It’s a sight to behold, lively, energetic, colourful, aromatic, and incredibly loud. Be sure to visit this remarkable place and witness what it is that makes Marrakech so magical. It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid any obvious scams.

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  • The Hammam.

    An ancient Moroccan bathing ritual.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the hammam.

    A hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco. It is a ritualistic cleansing that people do before prayer. This is the reason many hammams can be found near a mosque.

    Before homes had plumbing, a  communal hammam was the place where Moroccan people went to bathe. They were a sacred space where people gathered to socialise and relax, separated by gender.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Hammams are still widely used in Morocco today. They’ve become increasingly popular with tourists who wish to learn more about the country’s fascinating culture.

    The treatment always begins in a dry steam room. Heat opens up your pores and prepares your body for scrubbing. Morroccan black soap is used to scrub your body vigorously. It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating and removing dead skin cells.

    Traditionally, scrubbing is followed by throwing buckets of water over you to wash off the black soap. In a public hammam, buckets of cold and hot water are thrown simultaneously, which can be very invigorating.

    In some of the luxurious private hammams, Rassoul clay from the  high Atlas mountains is used to cover your body. It contains rich minerals such as silica, magnesium, and calcium, which is good for the skin. Next, your body and hair are lathered with a gentle soap or gel to wash off any residue. This is the final part of the cleansing ritual.

    Once your body and hair are thoroughly exfoliated and clean, you receive a massage using  fragrant oils such as rose or argan oil. This is an intensely relaxing experience.

    Once the treatment is over, you are encouraged to relax with a pot of mint tea and morroccan pastries. The fragrant incense filling the room induces a calm and relaxing ambience.

    There are two options for experiencing a hammam in Marrakech. One is a public hammam, and the other is a private one.

    A public hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, where local people bathe together chatting in darija,the Arabic dialect spoken in Morocco. Sometimes, women take their children in, and the atmosphere is friendly and welcoming. When you use a public hammam, you have to purchase your own soap and oils to take in. Using a public hammam is less expensive and one of the best ways to immerse yourself in the life of local people in Marrakesh. Public hammams are perfect for travellers on a budget, but don’t expect any frills. However, they are up close and personal to the customs and traditions of Moroccan people.

    On the other hand, private hammams provide you with everything you need. This includes soaps, massage oils, disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandals. Treatment options will vary, from the length of treatment to which kind of massage you prefer. You also get to choose which oils you would like. Interior decor can be quite luxurious, including exotic plants and comfortable couches to relax on. You are welcome to stay for as long as you want once the treatment is finished and some hammams serve food. Les Bains Kenaria is a prime example of a hammam with tranquil surroundings and good food.

    It’s worth pointing out that the underwear given to women is very flimsy. Some women ask for the male underwear instead. Nubies sometimes feel vulnerable in front of strangers with only a thong hiding their modesty. However, the rooms inside the hammam are dimly lit, and the Kassalas working there are very discreet. Most women soon get over their initial shyness.

    Hammam Mouassine is the oldest hammam in the city of Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden. Many riads also have a hammam, and this service is available for guests to book.

    Here are a few hammams in Marrakech you might wish to visit,

    . Hammam de la rose.

    . Mamounia Hamman..

    . Les Bains Ziani.

    . Les Bains Kenaria.

    Palm oil is sometimes used when washing hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it, check beforehand.

    Visiting a hammam has been an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries. Experiencing a traditional hammam is a break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna. It can be a relief from the baking heat in Marrakech and a chance to slow down from the manic pace.  Tourists who visit a hammam come away feeling refreshed, invigorated, and relaxed. Some tourists even become hooked, expressing it’s an unusual experience,difficult to describe in words, but they feel amazing afterwards and can not wait to go again.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If possible, I recommend paying a bit more for a private hammam, especially if it’s your first time. You feel less self-conscious because they’re similar to spa treatments in the West. It’s possible to book this kind of hammam through Get Your Guide, and they can come and collect you so you know where to go.

    If you want a taste of true Marrakchi life head for a public hammam. They’re budget friendly, and you can buy Morroccan black soap and other items you’ll need in the souks or the spice square. Don’t forget to take a towel, bathrobe and some fresh underwear in with you.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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