The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: Morrocco

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • Monriad.

    A peaceful riad in the heart of the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed at Monriad. This is where my love affair with Marrakech began.

    Staying in a traditional riad had been a passion of mine for a long time, but I had no idea what to expect. The experience exceeded all of my expectations. Since then, I have never stayed in any other type of accommodation in Marrakech.

    Monriad was delightful. The courtyard was very peaceful, with the sound of gently trickling water and desert sparrows singing. It was blissful. After a long flight and queues at the airport, I began to relax straight away.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The owner greeted me with a friendly smile and offered me mint tea with olives. She  gave me a map of the medina and showed me around the riad. I was offered the opportunity to have my evening meal in the riad, but I was eager to get out and explore the souks.

    I returned later to spend time on the rooftop terrace. The rooftop was lovely with flora and fauna in attractive pots, sunbeds, and colourful seating. Watching the sunrise  every morning was a lovely way to begin each day. The views were incredible.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    Captured by Freebird Tracey.

    My room in the  riad was spotlessly clean. It was colourfully furnished with handmade Morroccan furniture. I had a private bathroom with a decent shower and a pretty ceramic basin. The whole riad smelt of orange blossom, a fragrance I now associate with Marrakech.

    There was an intricately carved wooden door to enter the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem. The staff were always available to answer the door.

    I ate dinner once inside the riad, and the food was good. I had tagine in the peaceful courtyard. The breakfast was typically Moroccan and a hearty start to the day.

    Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street in a safe area of the medina. Several cats and kittens have also made the surrounding streets their home. This is something you will notice a lot in Marrakech.

    There are plenty of shops and restaurants like the popular jazz bar La Bistro Arabe and Dardar rooftop Restaurant a short distance away. The vegetarian restaurant La Famille is a two minute walk from the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace and Tinsmiths Square. Despite this, it feels peaceful and secluded. Monriad is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained its original charm. The riad has a welcoming atmosphere, and the staff are warm and friendly.

    My mission is to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh. However, I would definitely consider staying here again. The location is unbeatable, especially for solo female travellers.

    The address for Monriad is, N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, RiadZitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • LA Maison Des Oliviers.

    A laid-back resort in Agdal.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I needed a place outside the medina to simply unwind.I had heard about La Maison Des Oliviers and decided to spend a few days at the House of Olives.

    The grounds of the resort are beautiful and well maintained. I was surrounded by olive trees, citrus trees, and large palms. It felt very exotic. The structure of the building was like a mediaeval castle with its cob walls and lush gardens.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a heated swimming pool that is immaculately clean and a poolside bar serving food and alcohol.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is set over 3 hectares and has 10 standard rooms, 10 deluxe rooms, 17 senior suites, and 3 ambassador suites. There is a shop selling souvenirs on the premises and a spa. There are also table tennis courts

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed in one of the standard rooms. It was large and comfortable, with all the amenities I needed for my stay. It was lovely relaxing by the pool in the delightful gardens. I spent several days doing nothing except sunbathing.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner. Breakfast is a buffet, and there is a large variety of choices. There is an outdoor seating area at the main restaurant perfect for pre dinner drinks or a night cap.

    The area is quite remote, but  a shuttle can take guests into the centre of Marrakech. It’s a shared taxi that you need to book at least an hour in advance.

    The surroundings outside the accommodation are run down, and the area is undeveloped, I wouldn’t walk around during the evening by myself. However, I did feel safe visiting a small local supermarket during the daytime.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is an ideal place for relaxation. I would recommend staying here after a few days in the busy medina. It is a welcome break from the hectic pace and a peaceful retreat where you can catch a few sun rays.

    Although I enjoyed my time here. I did miss the lively medina. The staff were friendly and helpful, but they are simply doing a job. I missed the personal touches I get staying in a riad. However,it’s a contrast to the busy touristic side of Marrakech, and I was grateful for the peace and quiet. Occasionally, it’s nice  not to do anything, and this was the reason I chose La Maison Des Oliviers.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is located near the Agdal area of Marrakech. The address is KM 6, Route de l’Ourika, Tassoultante 40000  Marrakech Morocco.

    It is also possible to get a ‘Day Pass’ to come and use the facilities. Check the website if you’re interested. La Maison Des Oliviers is also a popular wedding venue. The attractive gardens are photogenic.

    Image by Freebird.
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  • Riad Hikaya.

    A riad in the Kasbah district.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya was purchased by an Englishman who spent 15 years restoring it. It is a gorgeous riad situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech. The work that has gone into reviving it is evident as soon as you walk through the door. Everything is handmade. The skilled craftsmanship used to create each piece of the furniture and hand paint the doors is exceptional. Some of  the rooms even have large copper bathtubs.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya is not budget accommodation. However, considering the aesthetics and the professionalism of the staff, it’s worth paying slightly more to stay here.

    The breakfasts are really good and I ate dinner here one evening. I had a three course meal, and it was freshly cooked. I sat at the edge of the pool to eat, admiring the large Moroccan lampshade hanging in the centre.

    There is a rooftop terrace with places to sit in the shade and sunbeds to soak up some hot, morroccan sun. It is a lovely space to relax with colourful couches and little pomegranate trees in pots. There are views of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is an authentic side of Marrakech. There are fewer tourists, and the locals are friendly. There are plenty of good restaurants, including The Clock, located across the road from Riad Hikaya. There are a number of shops and popular attractions such as El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs. It is an easy 20-minute walk to the main square from the Kasbah.

    If you want to disconnect from the busy touristic areas, staying this side of the medina is the perfect retreat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed at Riad Hikaya in the winter. Inside,the rooms were warm and cosy, and I felt comfortable throughout my stay. It was quiet and a change from the hectic rhythm of the medina.

    I enjoyed my winter break at Riad Hikaya and would definitely return again. The staff were kind and always available if I required anything. The riad is visually appealing, and it’s obvious that it’s been a labour of love.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riyadh Al Moussika

    Home to Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I was fortunate to stay at Riyadh Al Moussika once home to the Pasha of Marrakech. The two impressive courtyards were a haven of peace and tranquillity each morning. The sound of birdsong and the gentle trickle of water from the fountains was a lovely way to begin each day.

    In one courtyard, there is a large pool with elegant seating around both sides. In the second, there are traditional zellige tiled fountains and water features. The interior decor resembles a calm oasis and includes an extravagant dining room with tasteful Moroccan and European furnishings.

    The riad is a popular Italian restaurant called Pepe Nero. When the restaurant opens at lunchtime, music is playing, but during the afternoon, between 4 and 6, it becomes peaceful again.

    The evenings can be livelier, so earplugs are a must if you retire to bed early. The tempo of the music is louder and can be heard in the guests’ rooms. I didn’t find this an issue because once the restaurant closes at 11.30, it soon becomes quiet again.

    Riyadh Al Moussika has been beautifully renovated. The rooms are spacious, and the blue suite is grand enough for royalty. I stayed in the single room. It was adequate and included all the amenities I required for a comfortable stay. Although rooms in riads are quite dark to keep them cool, this is part of their authenticity.

    Riyadh Al Moussika is aesthetically pleasing. There are exotic plants, including palms and pretty bougainvillaea, draping over the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop terrace is separated into private areas for guests. There are sun loungers and foliage in large clay pots. It’s a large space with views of the Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The afternoons in Riyadh Al Moussika were very relaxing. I appreciated listening to the sound of the fountain trickling into the clear pool surrounded by lush green foliage. Gentle background music added to the feeling of stillness, and it was such a calm setting.

    The location of Riyadh Al Moussika is excellent. It is in a quiet area with a small carpark close by. There are several restaurants and cafes  a short walk away, including Mandala Society. There is a hammam with a great rooftop restaurant called Les Bains Kenaria nearby.

    The staff at the riad were very professional.They were helpful and polite at all times. Despite this being a busy restaurant, they were always available for their guests. Complimentary water and mint tea were offered to guests each day, which added a nice personal touch.

    The breakfast was a hearty start to each morning. It was a typically sweet Moroccan breakfast with the option of having an omelette. Msemen pancakes, cheese, fruit, yoghurt, fresh orange juice, and coffee were served in the restaurant courtyard.

    I really enjoyed my stay in Riyadh Al Moussika and would highly recommend it. The music is something to bear in mind if you would like to retire to bed early. However, for a solo traveller, it reduces that feeling of isolation you sometimes struggle with. Taking a pair of earplugs helped.

    The excellent service and glamorous environment made up for any minor inconvenience caused by the bustling restaurant vibe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riyadh Al Moussika can be located at 62 Derb Boutouil, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Kabana Rooftop Bar.

    A lively bar serving alcohol in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a popular place serving a range of alcoholic beverages, including cocktails. They also offer a wide selection of food with a menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar from the road, and it’s up a flight of stairs. From the outside, it looks rather unassuming.  Inside, it is modern and contemporary attracting all age groups.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are traditional straw lanterns hung around the perimeter, giving off a cosy glow. Music videos play on a large screen, and the tempo is lively. They play DJ sets, and it’s a vibrant setting with a relaxed dress code.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a cosmopolitan vibe. You can sit at tables facing the huge bar or outside where most people prefer to hang out. Table service is provided for drinks from the bar. It is not the place for a quiet romantic meal. I imagine it may be difficult chatting intimately amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu. I took my son for his birthday and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection. The staff looked after us well, and the evening was a success.

    Some people have mixed views about the Kabana rooftop bar. They say waiting times are lengthy and thought it was pricey in comparison to other places. It gets very busy, and booking is essential  to guarantee a place. Lunchtime is quieter, and the lunch menu is very good.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The bathroom at Kabana is rather special. It’s unisex, and the decor is extravagant.

    In summary, the Kabana rooftop bar is an exciting venue. It is typical of somewhere you’d expect to find in Gueliz. There is a spectacular view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, especially at night.It’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol in full view of the Mosque is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    This is a modern cocktail bar with a vibrant energy. It’s within walking distance for people staying in the old city. It’s definitely worth a visit if you want an exciting evening out in the medina selling alcohol. It’s also a nice place for lunch when it’s quieter.

    Kabana rooftop bar is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from 11.00am-2.00am. The address is Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,1 Rue Fatima Zahra,40000 Marrakech Morocco.

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  • Cafe Arabe.

    A popular restaurant in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Arabe is a popular destination for people looking for Italian and traditional Morroccan cuisine. It is open all day and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    The open-air restaurant has a rooftop overlooking the medina.The incredible views of the sunset draw people in to enjoy a cocktail.There is also a large patio area with comfortable seating.

    I visited for a break from the intensity of the souks and the heat. I had a fresh fruit smoothie, and I was given breadsticks and olives to accompany it. I enjoyed looking out over the rooftops of the medina. It was a pleasant way to relax and cool down. There was no pressure to order food, and I appreciated the relaxed energy of the restaurant.

    I decided to book a meal for later in the evening. The vibe in the afternoon was good, and the food being served looked delicious.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One thing I particularly liked was the decor. The exotic green colour leading upstairs to the terrace is stunning. This was my favourite part of the restaurant, I could have sat there quite happily. The bathroom is also very clean and well maintained.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Returning later for a meal, it was incredibly busy. The atmosphere felt very different. There were people queuing to be seated and waiters rushing about trying to cope with the demand. 

    I ordered a cold beer with olives whilst waiting for my food order to be taken. I eventually chose a margarita pizza, which turned out to be very nice. I would have liked a desert, but service was slow on this particular evening. The staff appeared to be under considerable pressure. I hoped to try again the following evening, but the restaurant was fully booked.

    I realised booking at least a few days in advance was essential to guarantee a place in this busy restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    My opinion of Cafe Arabe is that the food is good. Prices in the restaurant are average, considering its proximity to Jamaa El Fna. However, in Marrakech, there are so many excellent restaurants to dine in. I personally favour a more peaceful environment for dinner. I will only visit at lunchtime in the future.

    Cafe Arabe is open daily from 10.00am-12.00am, and the address is 184 Rue Mouassine Marrakech 40000 Morocco

    Booking a table for 6.00pm is the best time to come. Before it gets too busy.

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  • 1112 Morroccan Tea House.

    The first Moroccan tea house in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    1112 is the first Moroccan tea house in marrakech, serving 12 teas from the 12 areas of Morrocco. Set inside a former riad, it is a beautiful place to come and sample the 12 delicious teas on offer, along with modern oriental cakes. There is table service, and the food is tasty and varied. There is also a selection of light snacks to accompany your choice of tea.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The name 1112 signifies the date 1700 in the gregorian calendar and is etched into the wooden ceiling of the riad.

    The riad was beautifully restored by a morroccan family who are renowned for their expertise in the restoration of such properties since the 1990s. The architecture is beautiful.  Wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and exotic plants make it a delightful environment to sit and reflect on the past history of the importance of tea in Morrocco.

    It’s a fascinating tea museum, and there are interesting facts about the introduction of tea into Morocco. There’s also a shop selling nicely packaged tea if you’re looking for a gift to take home with you.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    1112 has a nice rooftop. After exploring the museum, it is worth taking a look around this beautifully restored riad.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Situated close to Ben Youssef, the address is 12 Place De La Kissariat, Ben Youssef, Marrakech.

    They are open for breakfast and lunch. It’s a lovely way to begin the day, or take a peaceful break from exploring the busy medina..

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Kafe Merstan.

    A restaurant with  spectacular views of the sunset in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Kafe Merstan restaurant and rooftop terrace is located near the spice square and vegetable market.They serve traditional Morroccan food, and prices are very reasonable. It’s ideal for travellers on a budget. I enjoyed one of the tastiest tagines I’ve had here. The quality of the food was very good.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Kafe Merstan is popular during sunset. Tourists arrive to watch the sun go down from the pretty rooftop. It’s a spectacular view, therefore it can get busy during this time of evening.

    The interior is traditionally decorated with a contemporary, modern twist. Colourful soft furnishings and rattan lampshades give off a homely, boho vibe.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Seating is upstairs on the rooftop, so people with mobility issues may not find it easily accessible.

    Payment is by card or cash downstairs. However, there’s a minimum of 200 MAD for a card payment.

    The address for Kafe Merstan is 2 Souk Chaaria Kast Benahid, Marrakech 40000, it’s open every day from 12.00-10.00. The restaurant is close to Ben Youssef Madrasa and the Museum of Marrakech. It’s in a strategic position if you need a break from sightseeing. I found it to be an ideal spot for lunch due to its close proximity to many attractions.

    Kafe Merstan offers a good selection of vegetarian dishes, including a very tasty vegetable pastilla.

    Kafe Merstan may give you the impression of a no frills restaurant from the entrance. However, the food was good, and it was clean and cosy upstairs.

    I recommend coming to Kafe Merstan to watch the setting sun from the rooftop terrace. Arrive early and get a good seat. It’s one of the best views.

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  • Healthy Juice And Smoothies In Marrakech.

    An alternative way to hydrate yourself.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is a smoothie lover’s dream come true. Smoothies can be found everywhere. They are one of the most vibrant and refreshing drinks in the medina.Using the freshest fruit from the local market and packed with nutritional goodness, smoothies are the perfect start to the day. I regularly enjoy a detoxifying smoothie for its positive health benefits or as a pick me up during the day. There is no shortage of exotic fruits and vegetables in Marrakech. The markets are alive with colour.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Literally, everything goes into making a delicious smoothie, and in Marrakech, they seem to have perfected the art. Fresh fruit, dried nuts, spiralina, cucumber, avocado, berries, banana, and spinach are just some of the healthy ingredients blended together to make a smoothie. There is an abundance of fruit around the medina, so you can expect colourful, fresh ingredients every time.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fresh juice is also popular  amongst tourists who need something to quench their thirst in the hot African sun. Freshly squeezed lemon juice is tangy and exhilarating. Served with fresh mint, it’s a combination that is both aromatic and refreshing. It’s a taste sensation.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Orange juice made using freshly picked oranges off  trees around the medina is a breakfast staple.It is sunshine in a glass.

    Mixed fruit juice is another favourite and sold in the main square. Vendors encourage business with friendly banter. They call tourists over to sample their mango and pineapple juice, and it can be fun to watch them competing for business. On the stalls, they display a selection of exotic fruits. It’s exciting watching them make the juice for you.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    My absolute favourite is  freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. It is a refreshing tonic and gives me a boost of energy. 

    I was flagging in the heat hiking around Ouzoud Waterfall. Freshly squeezed pomegranate juice instantly hit the spot. I soon felt revitalised again.

    Sugarcane juice is widely available around the medina, also. You can find vendors near Koutoubia Mosque.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Here are a few places I  recommend to enjoy a refreshing juice or a healthy smoothie..

    Le Ferme Medina.

    Henna Art Cafe. 

    La Famille.

    Pikala Cafe.

    They each have attractive, comfortable surroundings for a break from sightseeing. There are also plenty of rooftop terraces around the medina. These are great places to enjoy sipping a fruit juice or smoothie, watching all the action below. It’s a pleasant way to get some vitamin C.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It is important to stay hydrated in Marrakech. The temperature can be hot and humid. I can not underestimate the power of a bottle of water, and you should always carry one with you.

    For a healthy treat, consider trying a few of the wonderful juices and smoothies available also. The vitamins and minerals are necessary to function during a hectic schedule.Just remember, there may still be high sugar content, so moderation is key. It’s all about balance.

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  • The Marrakchi Cats.

    The life of a cat in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the things you will notice when you are in Marrakech is the number of stray cats everywhere. When I first visited the city, I was surprised to see so many. They seemed to be experts at dodging the motorcycles and hiding inconspicuously underneath juice stalls. There were cats sleeping on rugs and cushions in the souks. I witnessed strays giving birth to kittens in narrow alleyways and watched cats prowl along rooftops at dawn.

    I took pity on some kittens outside my riad. They looked hungry, and I wanted to do something to help them. I purchased a couple of tins of sardines and carefully wrapped leftovers from my dinner into napkins. I placed the food in a safe place for them.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The next moment, cats appeared out of nowhere, also expecting to be fed. This made me feel very guilty. It was a case of first come, first served, and I didn’t have enough food to go around. I went home to the UK feeling really sorry for all the strays and the fact that I couldn’t do anything to help them all.

    The next time I visited marrakech, I saw things from a different perspective. Cats are seen as ritually pure in the Islamic faith and highly regarded. According to the Prophet Muhammad, cats are allowed access to homes and mosques because they don’t create impurity.

    I stayed in three riads, and each one had a resident cat, who was very well cared for. I noticed restaurants leaving food outside and butchers dropping scraps of meat on the floor.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Many of the cats were being cared for, and some were actually thriving. I noticed bowls of food and water around the medina. Shop vendors were putting food outside every morning.  Tourists were secretly dropping food on the floor, and the cats knew exactly where to go to find it all.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    On the whole, the cats appear to be content. They laze around on stalls, sleepily acknowledging tourists. They find shade in the plant pots of courtyards and hide amongst the trailing flowers on rooftop terraces.

    They don’t exist in the same way domesticated cats do in the west. However, they’re not being ill treated any more than elsewhere in the world. Once, a man got off his motorcycle in the busy souk and moved a little kitten to the safety of a quiet alleyway.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    When you first come to Marrakech, seeing all the stray cats may shock you. I was the same. After closer inspection, I came to the conclusion that the situation wasn’t as dire as I first thought. The cats are free to roam, and somehow, they have mastered the art of avoiding motorcycles and carts in the souks. The roads around Marrakech are chaotic, and I’m happy to say that I have never spotted an injured cat.

    Of course, I’m aware that life could be better for stray animals. In an ideal world, they would have access to flea treatment and regular veterinary care. They would also be neutered to keep the population under control.

    Recently, there has been a surge in tourists rescuing stray cats around Marrakech. Many are being taken back to European countries to begin a new life. Tourists are working with local vets to get injured cats treated and all their vaccinations done. Many people are willing to pay a lot of money to rescue cats.

    For the cats that remain in Marrakesh. They have learnt how to survive. They only know one life and have adapted to it. On the whole, local people are kind and compassionate towards them. Plus, in all the years of visiting Marrakech, I’ve never seen a single rat in the city.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.
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