Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: Morrocco

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • CAFE ARABE

    In the heart of the medina.

    Open air seating inside café Arabe

    Cafe Arabe is a popular destination for people looking for Italian and Morroccan cuisine.

    It is open all day serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    The open-air restaurant has a rooftop overlooking the medina and comfortable seating in the patio area.

    The incredible views of the sunset draw people in to enjoy a cocktail on the rooftop, and it gets booked up very quickly.

    I visited initially for a refreshing smoothie and a break from the intensity of the souks and the heat.

    We were given breadsticks and olives to accompany them at no extra charge.

    A  much needed respite from the heat and a refreshing, healthy smoothie.

    I enjoyed looking out over the rooftops of the medina whilst relaxing.

    There was no pressure to order something to eat, which was nice.

    I decided to book a meal for later in the evening because the vibe was good inside the restaurant and the food looked delicious.

    The view from one side of the restaurant to the other.

    One thing I particularly liked was the decor.

    The exotic green colour leading upstairs to the terrace is absolutely stunning.

    This was my favourite part of the restaurant, I could have sat here happily all afternoon.

    The bathroom is very clean and well maintained.

    The striking green colour on the way up to the terrace is beautiful.

    Returning later for a meal, it was incredibly busy, and the service was slower.

    There were people queuing to be seated and waiters rushing about trying to cope with the demand. 

    We ordered pizzas, which were very tasty.

    They took a long time to arrive, and we ended up having a few beers with olives whilst we waited.

    We would have liked a desert, but we didn’t have time to wait for their arrival, so we decided to try again another day when it’s less busy.

    We tried booking a table for the following evening but it was full.

    I would suggest booking a few days in advance as Cafe Arabe appears to be very popular with tourists in the medina.

    The prices are average considering the proximity to Jamaa El Fna, and the food was fairly decent.

    It was a little bit too busy for me, and not surprisingly, the waiters appeared to be slightly under pressure.

    There were a few discrepancies with my bill, which took ages to rectify. However, it didn’t spoil the overall enjoyment of our dining experience.

    I would certainly come back just for a cold beer and to watch the sunset on the rooftop.

    Cafe Arabe  is open daily from 10.00am-12.00am

    The address is,

    184 Rue Mouassine

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco

    I would recommend booking a table for around 6.00pm this is the best time to come before it gets too busy.

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  • MONRIAD

    A traditional riad close to Jamaa El Fna.

    The colourful rooftop of Monriad.

    The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed in Monriad.

    This is where my love affair with the medina began.

    I had no idea what to expect and was absolutely amazed at the wonderful experience I had staying in a traditional riad for the first time.

    Monriad was so pretty.

    The courtyard was tranquil, and the sound of the trickling water and birds singing was blissful.

    Inside Monriad

    The owner and her staff were friendly and helpful, greeting me with the ultimate respect and offering traditional mint tea with olives on arrival.

    A welcoming glass of mint tea.

    I was given helpful advice about the area surrounding the riad and popular excursions I might wish to book.

    She also suggested that I could eat dinner in the riad with the other guests and recommended places of interest close by.

    The rooftop was glorious, and watching the sunrise up there each morning really was a blessing.

    Sunrise from Monriad rooftop.

    My room was impeccable, with traditional and good quality furniture and a beautiful bathroom with a traditional basin.

    The riad smelt amazing. Cleanliness was a top priority for the staff.

    There was a large, traditional, carved wooden door into the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem.

    I did eat dinner once inside the riad, and the food was quite good. It was popular with other guests who seemed to really enjoy dining inside the riad.

    The breakfast was very good.

    Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street.

    It’s a pleasant, safe area with several cats and kittens who have also made the surrounding streets their home.

    Making friends with the locals.

    Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace, yet it is peaceful and secluded.

    It is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained a family and welcoming feel about it.

    It remains my mission to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh, but I would definitely consider returning to Monriad.

    Monriad can be found at the address below,

    N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, Riad

    Zitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • JAMAA EL FNA AT NIGHT.

    Jamaa El Fna comes alive in the evening, attracting thousands of people from around Morrocco and tourists alike.

    If you think it’s a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set.

    Gone are the snake charmers and chained monkies to be replaced with food vendors and henna ladies, street musicians, and dancers.

    Enjoying some performers in the square.

    The scene is organised chaos and a sensory overload.

    The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted.

    This is where people come together to meet each other, eat traditional street food, and sip mint tea and freshly squeezed juice.

    The atmosphere is electric and vibrates with a magnetic energy.

    Street vendors pursue potential customers with menus as they try to navigate their way through the crowds.

    Sometimes, they can be very persistent, and you can feel somewhat intimidated.

    The scene is very intense yet magical and exciting.

    I really enjoyed myself, but other people say that they felt slightly overwhelmed.

    It is unlike anything else you may have experienced.

    There is so much to see. There are games being played, and a few little scams take place to trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around, chat with each other, or play with a football close to the walls of the medina.

    Sugarcane is sold from vending carts.

    Bemused onlookers sit observing everything outside restaurants or from the rooftops in the square as the mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes intense and electrifying.

    The square is transformed into a social hub where anything and everything takes place.

    As night falls, the square comes alive.

    It’s an incredible experience.

    The bright lights dazzle from the food vendors, and beautiful Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets light the way, giving off a wonderful glow.

    The aroma of sheeps head cooking floats through the air.

    Tourists tempted to try a bowl of snails queue to sample this culinary delight.

    Drums beat, belly dancers perform to curious onlookers and acrobats show off their skills to the crowds.

    From restaurant windows around the square, you can watch from a safe distance,  but you can not escape the craziness.

    It magnetises you.

    The sheer madness, a complete assault on the senses in every way possible.

    View from the window of a restaurant, overlooking Jamaa El Fna/image Freebird Tracey.

    It’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play, and they are determined to have a good time.

    Jamaa El Fna at night is truly a spectacle to behold.

    It’s lively, colourful, aromatic, and noisy.

    Be sure to visit and become a part of what makes Marrakech so unique.

    It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid obvious scams.

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  • KABANA ROOFTOP BAR.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.

    They also have a good selection of dishes on the menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar via steps, and from the road, it looks rather unassuming.

    Entrance to Kabana rooftop bar.

    Once inside, it’s tastefully decorated with lanterns hanging everywhere and music playing on a large television screen.

    It’s a very busy venue, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.

    The bar is huge, and you can either sit inside or outside, where most people prefer to hang out.

    Selection of alcoholic beverages at the bar.

    I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.

    Other people had mixed reviews, saying waiting times were long and that it was pricey for food and drinks.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.

    It was always full, and on the occasions we simply visited for cocktails, we couldn’t always be guaranteed a seat on the rooftop for a cocktail.

    However, after waiting for approximately 30 minutes inside the bar area, we eventually got a place.

    There is table service.

    The unisex bathroom is a treat,  beautifully decorated, modern, and traditional.

    Kabana rooftop bar seems to be one of the more popular places for drinks in the medina and lacked authenticity for me.

    The surroundings were nice with plenty of greenery, and the lanterns looked very pretty after dark.

    There is a view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, but it’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    View of Koutoubia Mosque.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe, attracting all age groups.

    It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,

    11.00am-2.00am

    They play DJ sets, and it’s a  vibrant setting with a more relaxed dress code.

    It is not an intimate place for a romantic meal, in my opinion, and I found it difficult to have a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    However, there are plenty of traditional, authentic places in the medina to dine out if you prefer a quieter environment.

    Kabana is a cocktail bar similar to the places in the new town, with the same energy but within walking distance for those people staying in the medina.

    It’s definitely worth a visit.

    The address is,

    Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,

    1 Rue Fatima Zahra,

    40000 Marrakech Morocco.

    A refreshing cocktail inside the Kabana rooftop bar.
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  • A TRADITIONAL MORROCCAN HAMMAM.

    Experience a true taste of Marrakechi culture.

    One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.

    A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.

    It was a ritualistic cleansing that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.

    Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.

    Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.

    During a treatment, morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.

    It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.

    The scrubbing is quite vigorous.

    This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.

    A clay called Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body as it’s rich in minerals like silica,magnesium, and calcium.

    After this, your whole body is lathered thoroughly, including your hair with a gentler soap or gel.

    The next treatment is an all-over massage using exquisite oils like rose oil or argan oil..

    The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.

    Relaxing in heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.

    Once the treatment is finished,  you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries..

    The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the ambience.

    There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.

    The public or private hammam.

    The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.

    In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.

    These are much less expensive.

    The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.

    Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.

    You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.

    The underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for the male underwear instead.

    Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable or uncomfortable being so exposed with just a disposable thong hiding your modesty.

    The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very professional.

    Most women do get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.

    Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.

    Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service.

    Other popular hammams are,

    . Hammam de la rose.

    . Mamounia Hamman..

    . Les Bains Ziani.

    Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it,  check beforehand.

    Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.

    It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.

    Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.

    Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.

    I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.

    However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.

    You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, near the spice square.

    You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.

    Riads organise their own..

    Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear..

    For more information;

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • THE MARRAKECHI CATS.

    The life of a cat in Marrakech.

    Watching the world go by/image Freebird Tracey.

    One of the things you will notice when you’re in Marrakech is the number of stray cats everywhere.

    I was surprised to see so many, especially around the busy square, and in the souks.

    They seemed to dodge the many motorcycles and hide inconspicuously under the juice stalls.

    There were cats sleeping on rugs and cushion covers in the souks, and lazing about without a care in the world.

    I witnessed strays giving birth to kittens inside alleyways and watched as cats prowled across rooftop perimeters at dawn.

    Five years ago, when I first visited Marrakech, I took pity on the cute little kittens hanging around outside my riad.

    They looked thin and hungry, I wanted to do something to help them..

    Cats inside the souks/image Freebird Tracey.

    I purchased a couple of tins of sardines and carefully wrapped the leftovers from my dinner into napkins.

    I found a couple of cats and strategically placed the food in a safe place for them.

    Stray cats outside the riad/images Freebird Tracey.

    The next minute, there were  so many cats appearing out of nowhere, also demanding to be fed.

    This made me feel very guilty because I’d only managed to afford them a few tiny morsels.

    It was a case of first come, first served..

    I went back to the UK feeling a little sorry for all the homeless cats who alerted passing tourists of their existence with a gentle mewing and extended paw.

    The next time I arrived at marrakech, I saw things from a different perspective.

    I stayed in three separate riads, and each one had a resident cat, who was very well cared for.

    I noticed restaurants leaving food outside their premises and butchers dropping scraps of meat on the floor for the local cat population to eat.

    A cat waiting for scraps of meat/image Freebird Tracey.

    Many of the cats were being looked after, and some were actually thriving on the titbits and bowls of food dotted around the medina.

    Cats sleeping peacefully in the souks/image Freebird Tracey.
    A friendly stray waits for a morsel of food/image, Freebird Tracey.

    There was only one upsetting incident where a young man was sitting with a kitten on his lap, and it was holding a business card in its paws.

    On closer inspection, it isn’t something I ever want to see again, and I don’t feel the need to go into more detail here..

    I’m sure you can imagine what I saw.

    That was the only startling discovery I have made.

    On the whole, the cats appear to be relatively content.

    They don’t exist in the way domesticated cats do in the west, but they’re not being ill treated any more than anywhere else in the world.

    I even saw a man get off his motorcycle in the busy souk and move a little kitten to the safety of an alleyway.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re coming to Marrakech, seeing all the stray cats may shock you initially.

    I was exactly the same, but after closer observation, I came to the conclusion that the situation wasn’t as dire as I first thought.

    There are plenty of little pools of water around the city for the cats to drink from, and some vendors leave glasses of water out for them.

    The crazy traffic and crowds of tourists seem to be the biggest problem, but the cats have learnt how to navigate their way around.

    I’m happy to say that I haven’t seen an injured cat at the side of any of the roads around Marrakech yet.

    There are tourists who are rescuing stray cats around Marrakech and taking them back to European countries.

    They are working with local vets to get injured cats treated and all the necessary vaccinations done before taking them out of the country.

    The cats in Marrakesh have learnt how to survive.

    They only know this life, and people are kind and compassionate towards them on the whole.

    Plus, I’ve never seen a single rat in Marrakesh..

    A family of Stray cats in marrakech/images Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • MORROCCAN MINT TEA.

    The customary mint tea that is served to guests on arrival in Marrakech is practically a ritual.

    The traditional way of welcoming guests.
    A woman pours tea at an argan cooperative

    After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive in your riad slightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.

    The owner of the riad gives you the warmest welcome with the biggest smile across his face as he guides you into the beautiful courtyard.

    As you sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water in the fountain and smell the scent of the blossom on the trees, slowly you begin to unwind.

    The owner reappears with an ornate teapot and colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. He begins pouring the fresh mint tea, holding the teapot higher and higher as he pours.

    You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.

    The aroma from the fresh mint leaves is wonderful..

    You begin to feel refreshed as the fragrant scent fills the air.

    This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.

    The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.

    It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.

    After you have drank your tea sweetened with sugar cubes and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic…

    A refreshing cup of mint tea

    Mint tea is everywhere in Marrakech.

    It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit in cafes chatting with their friends.

    It is known by the locals as  ‘Morroccan Whisky’

    The tea is made using green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is already sweetened with sugar before serving.

    If you find it a bit too sweet, try it before adding sugar cubes.

    Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, alongside other herbs and spices, and the aromatic aroma tempts the tastebuds.

    You can purchase the little tea glasses in the souks, and they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.

    Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate.

    A traditional Morroccan welcome.

    Sipping mint tea and overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a very enjoyable experience in Marrakech.

    One you will remember for years to come..

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • COME ON A FASCINATING JOURNEY WITH ME TO THE RED CITY OF MARRAKECH.

    An introduction to the red city of Marrakech in North Africa.

    If Africa is a peacock, Morocco is its tail

    Welcome to my blog featuring everything you need to know about Marrakech.

    I include my own personal stories, experiences, and adventures, giving an authentic insight into the red city of Marrakech.

    My name is Freebird Tracey, and I’ve been a regular visitor to Marrakech for many years.

    As a solo female traveller, I have always felt safe travelling around Marrakech. The friendly locals treat me with respect wherever I go, always helpful and always with a smile.

    I believe I have found my happy place in the sunshine amongst the fragrance of orange blossom, the vibrant colours, and the magical sounds of Jamaa El Fna.

    Marrakech is a diverse and magical city, steeped in history. 

    From its beautiful Islamic architecture to the culinary delights and fine craftsmanship on display, there is something to tempt the senses on every corner.

    I never get tired of exploring this alluring, magnetising corner of our planet.

    There is always something new to see, and it’s full of little surprises.

    Marrakech is an assault on the senses..

    Allow me to take you on a fascinating journey to North Africa and show you how to make the most of your time in Marrakech.

    I will share interesting articles and suggest the best places to eat, including vegetarian and vegan options.

    I will tell you where to find cool bars that serve alcohol with live music.

    If you’re interested in activities, excursions, or day trips, I will share some of my own personal experiences with you.

    I will give you truthful  opinions, honest reviews, and provide helpful suggestions to get the most out of your visit.

    I share tips on how to stay safe and what to do to make sure you have the best experience whilst visiting Marrakech.

    This is a tell-all blog at your fingertips..

    So, buckle up and join me on a mind-blowing trip of a lifetime.

    Let me introduce you to the sights, sounds, and tastes of the red city. 

    All beautifully entwined with each other,creating what can only be described as a little piece of heaven here on earth..

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