If you are fed up with haggling every time you want to buy something, there is a huge store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.
Here, you will find everything that’s for sale in the souks at a fixed price.
The perfumed oils are of a very high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several oils together.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
On the first floor, exquisite furniture, mirrors, Berber rugs, and other beautiful handmade pieces to furnish your home with.
They also ship worldwide.
The staff are incredibly helpful and not pushy at all.
The store is huge and worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship and detail that’s gone into creating each piece.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The Kasbah is a 15 – to 20-minute walk from the main square with plenty of interesting shops and good restaurants along the way.
Here, you will find the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.
Dar Bouchaib can be found on;
Rue de La Kasbah,
Marrakech 40000.
Opening times are;
Daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm.
Bank holiday hours may differ.
Although part of visiting Marrakech is to enjoy shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling and knowing how much you should be paying for something can become slightly stressful.
Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof.
The prices are fixed and realistic.
Make it part of your visit to the Kasbah area.
You won’t be disappointed.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
For more information, see my other posts or contact me via the email address below..
Marrakech is a culinary delight for all foodies out there.
The streets are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit.
Herbs and spices galore.
The aromatic aroma of street food fills the air, tempting the tastebuds.
Fine restaurants with impeccable service, in beautiful surroundings, call out to you to come inside and sample their cuisine.
But where do you start?
What do you order?
If you’re anything like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of places you’re visiting.
I particularly enjoy sampling the signature dishes of a region and eating the same food that locals do.
It’s a way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.
The locals are very hospitable people and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family.
With an overwhelming choice of food to choose from, you may need a little help to decide what to try..
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.
Tagine is the name of the clay or ceramic pot that the dish is cooked in.
It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre.
Chicken or lamb is the most popular.
Often, dates, olives, fresh lemon, and spices are added for flavour, and everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine.
Chicken tagine/image Freebird Tracey.
Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables.
It is eaten religiously on Fridays.
In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails for sale.
Tourists are targeted by street food vendors to try snails, and those who actually do say that they quite enjoyed the experience.
Apparently, broth they’re cooked in is quite tasty, and although it’s an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible.
Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us, but it appears to be popular in the main square and a regular sight on display.
The locals sit at street stalls eagerly munching on the spit roasted mutton, enjoying every morsel.
Snails in a broth/image Freebird Tracey.
Every dish is served with traditional bread in Marrakech. It is freshly baked each morning and delicious served warm.
Tangier is also a popular dish.
It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam.
Traditionally, the tangier is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day.
It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread.
The meat is incredibly tender and falls off the bone.
Tangier cooking in the Hammam/image Freebird Tracey.
There are plenty of street food vendors in the medina, tucked away in the souks.
They serve really good quality food and it’s cheap.
There is a row of street food vendors who only sell tangiers, and this is very popular with locals and tourists alike.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Taking a street food tour is a great way to get to try the best places. There are several tours available during the daytime or evening.
Street food vendor in the medina/image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech caters to vegetarians and vegans also, with a good choice of quality food including excellent salads, delicious vegetable tagine and couscous.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Several Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food.
Olives are served with tea and other beverages as a complimentary side.
They can be spicy or plain, always fresh, and the perfect aperitif.
They are deliciously fresh when bought straight from the vendors themselves.
Complimentary olives/image Freebird Tracey.
The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are incredibly good, and the desserts served after the main course of a meal are beautiful.
The choice on most menus is really good and varied.
There’s no point watching your waistline here..
Dates are hugely popular, and medjool dates are known as ‘ fruits of the King’, so make sure to try some.
You won’t be disappointed.
Fresh fruit is for sale everywhere around the medina and incorporated into tantalising sweet dishes that make your mouth water.
NB: I have a separate post about smoothies and juices in Marrakesh.
Beautiful cheesecake and sweets in Marrakesh/image Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food.
With so much to choose from and so many different dishes and flavours to try, you would need months to eat your way through it all.
Not only is there a great variety of interesting and tasty food, but it’s beautifully presented too.
Imagine sitting in the most beautiful setting, next to exotic plants, and trickling fountains.
That’s my experience of eating in Marrakesh..
112 Tea House/image Freebird Tracey.
For more information on places to dine, use the email address below.
For myself, the perfect day in Marrakech begins by waking up early to watch the sunrise from the rooftop of my riad.
View from the rooftop of Riad Zouhour
Listening to the birds chirping and the sound of the medina waking up.
Watching cats prowling along the rooftops and hearing the clatter of plates as staff in the riad prepare for breakfast.
The first glass of freshly squeezed orange juice hits the spot perfectly.
I enjoy a breakfast of pancakes with homemade jam and honey, bread, yoghurt, and fresh fruit.
Traditional riad breakfast.
After a refreshing shower, I head out into the medina for a nice coffee in a cafe on the main square.
Sat outside, I observe the vendors setting up for the day. The entertainers get ready to entice the crowds of tourists and the local ladies on their way to the market for fresh spices.
The medina waking up.
My next destination is the souks for a browse around before they get too busy.
I suggest just after 9.00 am. is the perfect time to go.
Vendors are eager for their first sale of the day, and bargaining is much easier.
The colourful array of beautiful things on offer is a sight to behold.
The cats gather for a few morsels off the butcher.
Cats are well looked after in the medina.
I check out the wonderful Amazigh jewellery, the argan oil, and the beautiful ceramics and mirrors.
Amazigh jewellery in the souks.
I buy one or two keepsakes and then decide it’s time for a snack.
A colourful outdoor cafe calls out to me, and I choose some delicious pastries with a mint tea.
It’s magical watching the world of Marrakech go by.
The motorcycles, the donkeys, all competing for space in the narrow streets.
Tourists wandering about, looking in awe at the beautiful colours around the medina.
After recharging my batteries, it’s time for some sightseeing.
I head towards Madrasa Ben Youssef and get some amazing photos of the stunning architecture.
The incredible Islamic architecture in the Mederssa Ben Youssef .
The medina is beginning to get rather busy, so I make my way to the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque to sit quietly for a while.
Enjoying the stunning gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque.
Afterwards, I treat myself to a sugarcane juice from a vendor outside.
Sugar cane vendor.
The heat is now quite intense, so I return to the riad for a rest.
I head upstairs onto the rooftop for a rest from the busy medina and a spot of sunbathing.
Enjoying the peace and tranquillity in my riad.
The call to prayer echos across the medina.
I read a book and order myself a glass of mint tea and a dish of olives.
Soon, it’s time to get ready for the evening.
I decide to go to La Pergola rooftop bar for a couple of cocktails.
It’s a lively atmosphere, and there’s a jazz band playing downstairs in the courtyard of Le Bistro Arabe.
I stop and listen for a while before heading towards Jamaa El Fna.
The energy is electric, food vendors touting for business, dancing, drumming, and crowds of people everywhere.
The smell of food makes me hungry, so I decide to find a nice place to dine.
I choose a place overlooking the square and observe the action from above, sat on the rooftop.
I enjoy a traditional tagine, flavourful and aromatic. I’m tempted by the exotic sounding smoothies on the menu and treat myself to one containing dried fruit.
I watch the beautiful sunset and everywhere has a golden glow.
Once dinner is finished, I nip into The Clock, situated in the square to listen to some traditional storytelling.
After an interesting time immersing myself in the culture of Morrocco, I decide to head back to my riad.
I pick up a few souvenirs along the way.
Back at the riad, I sit in the courtyard reflecting on my day.
The staff in the riad are happy to help me decide where to go the following day.
We chat about possibilities, and they help me put together the perfect plan for another day sightseeing.
I have had a perfect day…
I have experienced a different culture, tasted delicious food, watched a magnificent sunset, chatted with the locals, and navigated the maze of the souks successfully.
I have made a mental note of some of the things I want to buy to take home with me, and I look forward to haggling for a fair price before the end of my trip.
I fall asleep, happy and content, ready to do it all again tomorrow..
Marrakech can get very hot in summer, and temperatures can exeed 40° Celsius.
Even the cooler months can feel very warm and humid, especially walking around the souks and popular points of interest.
Marrakech is also a conservative city with a majority Muslim population.
So, what should you wear to feel comfortable and respectable?
For female visitors, I would suggest palazzo trousers.
These are baggy and flowing, keeping you nice and cool.
They pair well with smart cotton blouses and can be worn underneath a maxi dress.
Lightweight cotton trousers also look smart, and neutral colours give a sophisticated, modest appearance.
Silk (including recycled sari silk) maxi dresses are very versatile and keep you cool. They can be worn with a lightweight pair of palazzo trousers underneath for extra modesty if the dress is thin.
Linen is perfect and always looks polished. It may get slightly creased, so I would suggest bringing along a portable steamer. They’re a life-saver and take up very little space in your suitcase.
However, most accommodations have an iron and laundry service.
Cotton tee-shirts and blouses, paired with a maxi skirt or loose-fitting trousers, are ideal and can look flattering with the right accessories.
Yoga pants are also perfect for a day exploring.
Headscarves are fashionable at the moment and can be used as a head covering whilst visiting some of the religious sights or as a convenient wrap for around the shoulders.
I like to wear turbans to cover my locs.
They keep my head and neck cool at the same time.
Silk scarves roll up really small and fit perfectly in your bag.
Marrakech is definitely more liberal than other morroccan cities. However, exposing too much flesh is definitely frowned upon.
You may attract unwanted attention from males and disapproval from local females spoiling your overall experience and making you feel uncomfortable.
How you present yourself will determine the kind of experience you have in Marrakesh.
In your hotel or riad, it’s perfectly fine to wear shorts and clothing for sunbathing, so pack something for those occasions also.
Males can wear knee-length shorts with linen or cotton short-sleeved shirts to look smart yet casual.
Many restaurants don’t accept men wearing sandals, but smart leather sliders are deemed to be acceptable.
Linen or cotton long trousers for men are ideal and keep the body cool.
Regarding men’s clothing choices, it’s definitely less important than the females.
I wouldn’t advise a male to walk around without a shirt on. That is best left for beach holidays.
So, staying comfortable and cool is the only thing they need to consider.
On the other hand, women are expected to respect the cultural norms of the country unless they’re going to the clubs in the Gueliz or Hivenage part of Marrakech.
This is where the clubs and bars are, and it’s acceptable to dress more glamorously here.
You can still look good in the appropriate clothing.
It’s about choosing nice accessories.
Regarding footwear, there is a lot of walking around the medina, so comfortable footwear is essential.
Trainers, pumps, or sandals are all acceptable.
I took a couple of outfits in my travel bag, and once I arrived, I bought the rest of my clothing in the souks.
It wasn’t too expensive, and I felt as if I blended in with the locals better.
I enjoyed wearing the traditional Moroccan dresses and ethnic style tops and trousers.
Finally, I have never needed to take a warm coat to Marrakech.
I usually take a shawl or cardigan, and it’s always been adequate, even in March.
Depending on what time of year you travel to Marrakech, you may be better thinking in terms of layers.
In winter, the evenings can get chilly.
A trip to Agafay desert can be very blustery, sitting watching the sunset.
A shawl or lightweight hoodie or jumper is perfect to enjoy the experience in the open air.
A thin skin underneath a long dress or trousers is usually enough.
I wore long sleeved tee-shirts underneath my dresses during the evenings.
Keeping your eyes on the weather forecast before travelling will help you to plan accordingly for your trip.
So to sum up,
Wearing comfortable clothing suitable for a day exploring the medina and tourist hot spots is the most important thing to consider.
You will walk a lot, and it can get humid.
To discourage unwanted attention and negative vibes from the locals, female travellers should refrain from dressing too provocatively.
Unless they’re in the bars and clubs, which are more liberally minded.
Choosing natural fibres is the best way to stay cool, and long, loose-fitting garments are ideal because they look modest and feminine.
Turbans are elegant and modest.
Lastly, don’t forget to bring the sunscreen.
You don’t want to walk around looking like a lobster.
A spot of shopping or browsing around the busy souks in the medina is an exciting experience.
Berber jewellery in the souks.
There is everything that you could possibly dream of.
As you meander through the maze of colourful alleyways, be prepared for a complete assault on the senses.
From beautiful jewellery to exotic spices, leather shoes and bags, to Morroccan lamps and ceramics.
Traditional Morroccan Babouches.
The craftsmanship is astonishing, and you can find areas that are dedicated to certain products, such as leather goods and handmade Berber rugs or cushion covers.
It’s a lovely experience watching the locals making their goods to sell, and there is also the opportunity to have a go at making things yourself, such as a pair of babouche shoes to take home.
Berber rugs are beautifully displayed, and the assortment of colours and patterns are a feast for the eyes.
Argan oil and morroccan black soap, orange blossom oil, and gardenia float on the gentle breeze.
Oils and perfumes for sale in the souks.
Wooden boxes ornately decorated with mother of pearl, chess sets, and traditional toys tempt you for the perfect souvenir to take back for family and friends.
Then there’s the nuts, sweets, and pastries.
Traditional sweets for sale in the souks.
The olives and exotic fruits.
The medicinal herbs and spices, a cacophony of colours and fragrances.
Paintings and prints of traditional Morroccan doors and Berber people.
Hand painted pictures for sale.
For the person who loves shopping, Marrakech is an absolute delight.
The souks are crowded and busy.
You have to dodge motorcycles and donkeys, vendors with carts, and tourists looking for the perfect gift.
You can expect to get lost, but that’s all part of the experience.
No one went into the souks and was never heard from again…
So, if you’re coming to Marrakech for the vibrant abundance of enticing goods on sale around the medina, fully immerse yourself in the experience and enjoy every minute.
It’s an unforgettable experience, one which will envoke the spirit of camel caravans and ancient trade routes from centuries ago.
A few helpful tips to make the most of your shopping experience:
Pace yourself.
The souks are very busy with motorcycles, donkeys, and tourists. It can feel slightly chaotic at times, especially in the heat.
Stop for a drink and rehydrate.
Rest for a while, try a spot of lunch on the rooftop of a cafe.
Be prepared to haggle. It may seem daunting at first, but you’ll soon get the hang of it.
Stay vigilant, and keep your wits about you.
Marrakech is a safe city, but pick pocketing can happen just like anywhere else in the world.
In crowded, narrow streets, keep your possessions safe in a closed bag at the front of your body.
If you’re lost, try to use Google maps or look for signs above your head pointing you back to Jamaa El Fna.
If you need help or advice, ask a shop vendor or try calling the riad you are staying in.
They may offer to collect you.
Don’t be tempted to accept directions from locals who may lead you to a friend or family members’ shop so they can get commission.
You may struggle to get away, and you may find yourself seated and drinking mint tea before you know it.
Colourful spice drums in the medina.
Take time to shop around and walk away if you don’t think you’re being offered a fair price.
You will usually find yourself being called back, and a good price reached.
If not, the same items will most likely be found on sale elsewhere in the souks.
Exercise patience.
Remember, this is someone’s livelihood, and it’s a different culture to what you may be used to.
Wages are not very high for most people in Marrakesh, and tourists with money to spend are fair game for boosting the take-home salary of most vendors.
After all, they too have mouths to feed..
Although the souks can be overwhelming, they are an unforgettable shopping experience.
You will be dazzled by the vast number of weird and wonderful items on display.
The sights, sounds, and smells will stay with you a long time after you leave this fascinating city.
Marrakech is full of delightful little places to sit, and people watch whilst sipping traditional mint tea.
A pretty little spot inside the medina.
The colourful, boho decor and tempting pastries are the perfect way to take a much needed breather from the chaos of the souks.
Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming.
I found out that taking a break and pacing myself was the best way to thoroughly enjoy my time looking around and navigating the maze of the souks.
I especially loved the sweets and pastries on offer. They were absolutely delicious and complimented the refreshing mint tea perfectly.
There were so many to choose from, and I decided to treat myself to a selection of smaller pastries to see which were my favourites.
A tasty snack inside the medina.
If you are shopping for gifts or spending time in the colourful, vibrant souks, I would highly recommend that you take some time out to rest and pace yourself.
Sitting outside a cute little tea shop and sampling something light and tasty is a great way to engage in the culture of Morrocco and its people.
Enjoying a breather from shopping.
There are plenty of places offering mint tea and pastries dotted in and around the main square.
The sweets are an absolute treat, but you will be spoilt for choice.
The choice of delicious treats on offer in the souks.
Part of the pleasure of exploring the medina is finding hidden gems where you can sit and gather yourself before venturing further.
Marrakech is known for its delicious pastries, and they’re a nice snack that won’t spoil your appetite for later in the day.
Watching the world go by in the medina.
A few suggestions are,
. Medina Kawa Marrakech.
. La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices
. Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.
Also, check out my blog post about traditional Morroccan mint tea.
Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a budget.
Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank.
In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.
It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.
I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.
1.
Book your flight early.
The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.
2.
If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.
3.
Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.
4.
Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.
4.
Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.
5.
There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.
Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate post about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.
Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.
Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.
Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.
6.
Try a public hammam.
I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.
Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.
You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.
7.
Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.
Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.
You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will work it out eventually.
There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.
8.
Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.
9.
Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.
10.
Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.
11.
Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.
Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.
It’s a destination that is accessible for everyone, including those on a tighter budget.
With some careful planning, you can put together an interesting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.
If you need help to organise your trip or advice on places to eat or stay, reach out and leave me an email using the contact details below..
One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.
A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.
It was a ritualistic cleansing that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.
Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.
Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.
During a treatment, morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.
It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.
The scrubbing is quite vigorous.
This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.
A clay called Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body as it’s rich in minerals like silica,magnesium, and calcium.
After this, your whole body is lathered thoroughly, including your hair with a gentler soap or gel.
The next treatment is an all-over massage using exquisite oils like rose oil or argan oil..
The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.
Relaxing in heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.
Once the treatment is finished, you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries..
The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the ambience.
There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.
The public or private hammam.
The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.
In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.
These are much less expensive.
The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.
Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.
You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.
The underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for the male underwear instead.
Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable or uncomfortable being so exposed with just a disposable thong hiding your modesty.
The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very professional.
Most women do get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.
Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.
Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service.
Other popular hammams are,
. Hammam de la rose.
. Mamounia Hamman..
. Les Bains Ziani.
Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it, check beforehand.
Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.
It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.
Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.
Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.
I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.
However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.
You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, near the spice square.
You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.
Riads organise their own..
Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear..