Les Bains Kenaria has been revived to become a sanctuary in the medina. It’s over 400 years old and has been beautifully preserved and restored. The hammam still uses the ancient Moroccan tradition of heating using the wood fired method.
Services include newly added thermal rooms, warm baths, cold baths, a jacuzzi style pool, and a massage.
Les Bains Kenaria is also a rooftop cafe, and this is where my experience here began. I was lured in by the lush tropical plants that spoke to me from the intricately crafted doorway.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I made my way upstairs onto the pretty rooftop and was seated on a colourful couch. The staff were really friendly and courteous, and helped me to choose a vegetarian option from the menu.
I had one of the most delicious tagines I’ve had in Marrakech.The fresh vegetables included fava beans and olives and tasted absolutely sumptuous. I chose a beet smoothie for the first time. It was quite different from anything I’d had before, and I couldn’t decide if I liked it or not.
I watched the sun setting as I ate. I could hear the lively sounds of the souk below. It was a lovely atmosphere, and I could see everyday life taking place on the adjacent rooftops.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The setting was peaceful, despite it being in the busy medina. There were tourists shopping in the street below. I was still able to enjoy my meal feeling relaxed and stressfree. I took my time and didn’t feel rushed.
Dining on the rooftop terrace of Les Bains Kenaria was a lovely experience. The food is traditional Morroccan cuisine, and prices are very competitive. There is plenty of choice for lunch and dinner on the menu, and breakfast is also available. The lush plants and comfortable surroundings made it extra special. It was a contrast from the manic rhythm of the street below. This is definitely a place I will visit regularly.
The opening hours are 9.00 am until 8.00pm daily. The address is Bain Maure, N 132,Marrakech 40040, Morocco.
This unassuming restaurant cafe in the medina is undoubtedly one of the most popular amongst the locals in Marrakech. The Guardian voted it one of the 10 best places to eat in the medina.
From the outside, the restaurant looks humble, but the food is another story entirely.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are a number of excellent tagines on the menu, and most diners come just to sample those. Choose from rabbit, fish, meat, or vegetarian options. They’re all cooked to perfection by the well-known and respected friendly chef.
This lively little restaurant has almost become an institution in the medina. It’s not just a meal. It’s an experience. For travellers on a budget, the food here is cheap but not at the expense of its quality. It is a known fact that if a restaurant is full of locals, it must be good.
Upstairs, there is a small rooftop terrace overlooking the lively alleyways of the souk. It is opposite Chez Bismillah Sand Coffee and impossible to miss with its colourful and quirky interior.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Terrace Bakchich has managed to retain its authenticity amidst the growing tide of tourism. It is not fancy. The food speaks for itself. If you’re looking for good food in an environment that is charming, rustic, and cosy, this place is for you. The experience of eating with the locals is the best way to get to know the culture of the city.
Terrace Bakchich is close to the vegetable and fruit markets, so ingredients are always fresh.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
With the most expensive dish on the menu being 150 dirhams, eating here is kind on the wallet. This leaves you with more money to spend in the souks. The restaurant only accepts cash, so be sure you have some with you if you’re thinking of visiting.
Terrace Bakchich is near to popular attractions such as Ben Youssef Madrasa and Marrakech Museum. The location is 294 Rue Talaa Marrakech, and opening times are 10.00am until 10.00pm daily. Outdoor seating is available.
The perfect day in Marrakech begins watching the sunrise on a rooftop terrace in my riad. I can hear birds singing in the courtyard below. I hear the sound of the medina as it gradually wakes up and comes back to life. I watch cats prowl along the rooftops. Below me, I hear the clattering of plates as staff prepare breakfast.
A glass of freshly squeezed orange juice hits the spot perfectly. I enjoy a breakfast of msemen pancakes with homemade jam, amlou, and honey.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
After my shower, I head out into the medina for a glass of mint atay. I sit outside a cafe overlooking the main square. I observe the vendors setting up their stalls for the day. The street entertainers are ready to entice crowds of tourists. The local ladies pass by on their way to the market for fresh herbs and spices.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
My next destination is the souks before they get busy. Vendors are eager for their first sale of the day, and bargaining is easier early in the morning. The array of things on offer is a sight to behold.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Cats gather for a few morsels off the butcher, and locals toss titbits for them to eat. They vye with each other for the perfect spot to laze in the sunshine.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
I check out the Amazigh jewellery, the argan oil, and the beautiful ceramics on display. At the same time, I dodge motorcycles and donkey carts as they make their way through the narrow alleyways. I buy a few souvenirs and then decide it’s time for a light snack.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
A cafe with colourful outdoor seating looks inviting. I order a selection of Morroccan pastries and a pot of mint tea. I sit for a while people watching, enjoying the scenes that are unfolding around me. It’s fascinating watching daily life in the medina. Tourists look in awe at things for sale, and vendors call out to them with friendly banter.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
After recharging my batteries, it’s time to do some sightseeing. I head towards Madrasa Ben Youssef for an opportunity to get some photos of the stunning architecture. I learn the history of one of the most important koranic colleges in Morocco.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Afterwards, I make my way to the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque. The medina is getting busy, and I want to sit somewhere less crowded.
I relax amongst the beautiful trees, admiring the most famous landmark in Marrakech. As I sit near the fountain, it feels cool and refreshing as it sprays into the air.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I treat myself to a sugarcane juice from a vendor. It goes down well, and the day is getting steadily warmer.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
By now, the heat is quite intense, so I return to my riad for a rest. I make my way onto the rooftop terrace to sunbathe and read a book. The call to prayer echos across the medina. It’s a familiar sound that can be heard in Marrakech five times a day.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Soon, it’s time to get ready for dinner.
I go to La Pergola rooftop bar for a couple of cocktails beforehand. It’s a lively atmosphere. There are people enjoying a drink and chatting with friends.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Next, it’s time to head towards Jamaa El Fna. The energy is electric. Food vendors are touting for business. There are dancers, drumming, and gambling games. Crowds of tourists gather to witness the spectacle. The smell of food cooking makes me hungry. I decide to find a nice place to dine.
I choose a place that has a rooftop terrace overlooking the square. It’s a perfect spot to watch the sunset. As the sun slowly disappears behind the Koutoubia Mosque, it’s a spectacular sight. Everywhere has a golden glow.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I order a traditional tagine, which is flavourful and aromatic. I’m tempted by the exotic fruit smoothies on the menu. I treat myself to one containing dried fruit, and it’s delicious.
The evening is still young, so I take a leisurely walk to the kasbah. I spend the rest of my evening at the famous Clock listening to some live music and traditional storytelling.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
After immersing myself in the culture of Morrocco, I head back to my riad. I sit in the peaceful courtyard reflecting on the day I’ve had.
I have learnt some history about the culture of Marrakech. I have tasted delicious food. I watched a beautiful sunset and chatted with friendly locals. I have successfully navigated my way through the souks without getting too lost. I also have some nice souvenirs to take home.
I fall asleep. It’s been a perfect day, and I’m ready to do it all again tomorrow.
Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming at times. I soon realised that taking a regular break and pacing myself was the best way to enjoy the experience.
Navigating the maze of alleyways in the souks is exciting. There is so much more to them than beautiful leather goods and Moroccan lamps, though.
There are delicious sweets and pastries waiting to be sampled. These compliment the taste of traditional mint tea known as atay perfectly.
There are so many different pastries to choose from. I decided to treat myself to a selection to find out which ones are my favourite. I enjoyed the taste of the almond pastries most of all.
Traditional mint tea is very hydrating. Sitting in a colourful, boho nook drinking mint tea is a perfect way to take time out from the hectic rhythm of the souks.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
If you are shopping in the souks, I recommend that you pace yourselves and take some time to enjoy the experience. Sitting outside a cute little tea shop is the perfect way to do that.
There are plenty of places around the medina selling mint tea with traditional sweets and pastries. Part of the pleasure of exploring is finding these hidden gems.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
A few places I recommend are,
Medina Kawa Marrakech.
La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices
Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.
Marrakech has an abundant supply of sweets and pastries, and I suggest trying Baclava. It’s a sweet pastry made of layers of flaky phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts like walnuts, pistachios, or almonds. It’s sweetened with honey and flavoured with spices like cinnamon and lemon juice. This was one of my many favourites.
Marrakech is my happy place. It’s a city of contrasts. From the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Gueliz and Hivernage. Visitors may find Marrakech to be an assault on the senses. The sights, sounds, and smells of Jamaa El Fna can be overly stimulating for the most seasoned of travellers. However, it’s part of the charm of the city, and it’s just as exciting as it is chaotic.
Although I love visiting Marrakech, there are things that frustrate me. I have to give a realistic, balanced opinion. Like anywhere else in the world, things can not be all perfect. Therefore, I have decided to share some of the things that I have struggled with versus the things I adore about the city of Marrakech. I have made a list of 5 things that I love and 5 things I don’t like.
Here are the 5 things I don’t like about Marrakech.
1.
If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with. The monkeys on chains and the snake charmers encouraging you to have your photo taken with them were hard for me to see. The monkeys have been brought down from their natural habitat in the Atlas mountains. I accept that local people need to make a living, but they clearly don’t look happy chained up all day. They are dressed in tutus and nappies, and it just feels wrong to me.
There are horse-drawn carriages taking tourists through the chaotic traffic into the newer part of the city. The donkeys pulling heavey laden carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists. I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists. The donkeys look as though they’re overworked and appear neglected.
I appreciate it’s the culture of Marrakech, and I have no right to criticise anyone’s way of life or impose my own beliefs onto another culture. However, I did struggle with it the first time I visited Marrakech. I avoided eye contact with the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, and eventually, they stopped approaching me. I would feel happier if a separate lane was implemented just for the horse-drawn carriages to use. For now, they are taken through some of the worst traffic I’ve ever seen, and I found that difficult to watch.
There are also a lot of stray dogs and cats in Marrakech. They are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by owners of the riads. They are regularly fed, and the local people try their best to look after them. However, I found it difficult to see the sheer volume of strays to begin with.
Finally, there are chickens in tiny cages and caged tortoises, If you are an animal lover like me, you may find all the above a bit shocking.
2.
Queueing at the airport.
Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, and all you can do is accept it. Take a snack and keep a drink with you. It is possible to pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.
Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the aircraft lands and consider choosing a seat near the entrance and exit. This way, you can get to the front of the queue quickly.
3.
Marrakech is touristy.
The narrow alleyways in the Souks can be very crowded. You and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time. Marrakech is one of the most visited destinations, and it may feel as though everyone is there at the same time as you.
Tip: Plan to visit in January or November when it’s quieter. There are fewer people around the main attractions, so you will get the perfect photo opportunity. Queues will be shorter also. Consider sightseeing and shopping early in the morning. It’s less crowded, and bargaining is easier.
4.
The smell of fumes in the souks.
The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past. The fumes can get stuck in the back of your throat, making you feel nauseous. Unfortunately, there is little you can do to change this. There are a lot of vehicles on the main roads around Marrakech, and they can be chaotic at times. Pollution can be bad in Marrakech. Just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.
5.
The vendors in the main square can be persistent.
During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people. The food stalls are all in competition with each other. Vendors will try to shove a menu in your face to get your custom. Some of them can be very persuasive, occasionally pushing the boundaries. It can become overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those situations
The henna ladies also vy for your custom. It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna, telling you that it’s a gift. After they’ve finished, they’ll ask for money from you, and it can get quite heated if you refuse.
Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to show interest by avoiding eye contact. Politely saying “La Shukran” meaning no thank you in darija, is a good way to discourage unwanted harassment.
Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people lost their livelihoods and homes. Whilst it was sometimes difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors. I had to remind myself that their struggle to survive is very real.
Marrakech is certainly a culture shock to many first-time visitors, and I was no exception.
I’ve shared 5 of the things I find challenging about Marrakech. I would now like to tell you about what it is that keeps me going back time and time again.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Here are 5 things I love about Marrakech.
1.
The people.
You can expect to meet the friendliest, most welcoming people you have ever met in Marrakech. They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city. They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages. They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa. Many of the people of Marrakech identify as Amazigh, and the history of their culture is really interesting. Moroccans are some of the most hospitable people in the world, and I always feel welcome.
2.
The vibrant colours and craftsmanship in Marrakech.
If, like me, you are drawn to colourful things, you will be in your element in the Souks. You will find jewellery, Berber rugs, wood carvings, and an array of other handcrafted items. Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye. You will see skilled artisans creating Moroccan lamps and women demonstrating carpet weaving. The souks are a cacophony of colours. Lively and energetic. It’s a sight to behold.
3.
The food is delicious.
There are plenty of great restaurants in Marrakech, and the food is excellent. There are vegetarian and vegan restaurants, and many cater for people with gluten intolerance. The food is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate. I would need years to work my way through all the exciting menus in Marrakech.
I enjoyed every meal I ordered, especially tagine and couscous. The deserts in Marrakesh are incredible. My favourite was the Japanese souffle pancakes in Fluffys.
4.
The Islamic architecture.
Islamic architecture, with its symmetry and attention to detail, is beautiful and had me spellbound. I recommend visiting the places below to see some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture and craftsmanship.
. Bahia Palace.
. Madrasa Ben Youssef.
. The saadian Tombs.
. The Koutoubia Mosque.
. Bacha Museum.
. Marrakech Museum
I loved the large wooden doors around the medina. The intricately carved cedarwood was a pleasure to see.
5.
Marrakech is central for visiting other places
I took a trip out to Agafay desert, and it was magical. There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa. You can take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira on the coast for the day. There are shared taxis to Imlil in the Atlas mountains and domestic flights to Tangier. If you have three days to spare, you can venture further into the Sahara desert. If not, you can take a camel ride at sunset in the Palmerai. There are plenty of excursions that are accessible from the city, and the transport system is developing rapidly. Supratours and CTM buses can take you to many places, including Essaouira, in three hours.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are so many reasons why I love Marrakech. I have featured only a few.
If you’re looking for a place that combines ancient and modern. A place that is diverse. Somewhere that can sometimes feel like organised chaos yet functions perfectly. A place that will transport you to the tales from Arabian Nights, Marrakech, is all of those things and more. However, do not be under any illusion that you won’t see things you find difficult. Go with an open mind and compassion. That way, you will be prepared for the things you find different from what you’re used to.
The Sound Of The Souks 