Tag: Travel

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • Kabana Rooftop Bar.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    They also have a good selection of dishes on the menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar via steps, and from the road, it looks rather unassuming.

    Entrance to Kabana rooftop bar.

    Once inside, it’s tastefully decorated with lanterns hanging everywhere and music playing on a large television screen.

    It’s a very busy venue, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.

    The bar is huge, and you can either sit inside or outside, where most people prefer to hang out.

    Selection of alcoholic beverages at the bar.

    I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.

    Other people had mixed reviews, saying waiting times were long and that it was pricey for food and drinks.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.

    It was always full, and on the occasions we simply visited for cocktails, we couldn’t always be guaranteed a seat on the rooftop for a cocktail.

    However, after waiting for approximately 30 minutes inside the bar area, we eventually got a place.

    There is table service.

    The unisex bathroom is a treat,  beautifully decorated, modern, and traditional.

    Kabana rooftop bar seems to be one of the more popular places for drinks in the medina and lacked authenticity for me.

    The surroundings were nice with plenty of greenery, and the lanterns looked very pretty after dark.

    There is a view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, but it’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    View of Koutoubia Mosque.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe, attracting all age groups.

    It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,

    11.00am-2.00am

    They play DJ sets, and it’s a  vibrant setting with a more relaxed dress code.

    It is not an intimate place for a romantic meal, in my opinion, and I found it difficult to have a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    However, there are plenty of traditional, authentic places in the medina to dine out if you prefer a quieter environment.

    Kabana is a cocktail bar similar to the places in the new town, with the same energy but within walking distance for those people staying in the medina.

    It’s definitely worth a visit.

    The address is,

    Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,

    1 Rue Fatima Zahra,

    40000 Marrakech Morocco.

    A refreshing cocktail inside the Kabana rooftop bar.
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  • Atay And Moroccan Pastries.

    Marrakech is full of delightful little places to sit, and people watch whilst sipping traditional mint tea known as atay.

    A pretty little spot inside the medina.

    The colourful, boho decor and tempting pastries are the perfect way to take a much needed breather from the chaos of the souks.

    Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming.

    I found out that taking a break and pacing myself was the best way to thoroughly enjoy my time looking around and navigating the maze of the souks.

    I especially loved the sweets and pastries on offer. They were absolutely delicious and complimented the refreshing mint tea perfectly.

    There were so many to choose from, and I decided to treat myself to a selection of smaller pastries to see which were my favourites.

    A tasty snack inside the medina.

    If you are shopping for gifts or spending time in the colourful, vibrant souks, I would highly recommend that you take some time out to rest and pace yourself.

    Sitting outside a cute little tea shop and sampling something light and tasty is a great way to engage in the culture of Morrocco and its people.

    Enjoying a breather from shopping.

    There are plenty of places offering mint tea and pastries dotted in and around the main square.

    The sweets are an absolute treat, but you will be spoilt for choice.

    The choice of delicious treats on offer in the souks.

    Part of the pleasure of exploring the medina is finding hidden gems where you can sit and gather yourself before venturing further.

    Marrakech is known for its delicious pastries, and they’re a nice snack that won’t spoil your appetite for later in the day.

    Watching the world go by in the medina.

    A few suggestions are,

    . Medina Kawa Marrakech.

    . La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices

    . Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.

    Also, check out my blog post about traditional Morroccan mint tea.

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  • FIVE THINGS I LOVE AND HATE ABOUT MARRAKECH

    A list of my favourite and challenging things in Marrakech.

    Colourful Babouches

    Marrakech is ‘my happy place’. It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Hivernage in the new part of the city.

    Visitors may find the experience to be an assault on the senses.

    The lively sounds, sights, and smells can be a complete overload on the senses and somewhat overwhelming to the most seasoned traveller.

    However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech.

    You do become accustomed to it, and it’s part of the charm of Marrakech.

    I have made a list of the 5 things that I myself love and hate about this fascinating city to help you get the most out of your visit.

    Here are the 5 things I hate about Marrakech.

    1.

    If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.

    The monkeys on chains and the snakes (which you are encouraged to have a photo taken with) are difficult to accept.

    Don’t encourage this.

    The monkies have been brought down from the Atlas mountains, and although people need to make a living, they clearly don’t want to be there.

    Then there are the horses, taking tourists through busy traffic and the donkeys pulling carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.

    The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.

    The donkeys look overworked and neglected.

    It’s the culture of the city, but very different from what I’m used to.

    I avoided eye contact with the  snake charmers and monkeys in the square, and they stopped approaching me eventually.

    There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of the riads.

    They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring as a rule.

    If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.

    I joined Brooke, a sanctuary, for working animals abroad when I arrived home.

    I can’t change how people earn their money, but I can help to educate them.

    2.

    Queueing at the airport.

    Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so get used to it.

    Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.

    You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.

    Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.

    Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.

    3.

    Marrakech is touristy.

    The narrow alleys of the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.

    Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.

    Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it will certainly feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.

    Tip: Plan to visit in January or November to avoid the crowds.

    It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.

    There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will get that perfect photo opportunity.

    Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors. They don’t feel comfortable about it and may even expect a payment from you.

    4.

    The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks.

    Everyone in Marrakech seems to own a motorcycle, and they all appear to be riding them at the same time.

    The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.

    This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.

    There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get busy.

    Around 9.00 is an ideal time.

    There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.

    Pollution is fairly bad, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.

    5.

    The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.

    During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.

    This includes the locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.

    The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors can follow you persistently with a menu to get your custom.

    Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries of what’s considered to be harassment

    It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations

    The henna ladies are also demanding your custom.

    It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them without your consent.

    Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to make eye contact with any of the vendors.

    Saying “ La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.

    It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.

    Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.

    Whilst it’s difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors vying for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive.

    Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.

    So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

    A lovely man shows me inside the Hammam/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’

    I am absolutely in love with this city.

    Here’s why…

    1.

    The people are wonderful.

    You can expect to encounter the friendliest and most welcoming people you have ever met.

    They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.

    They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.

    They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.

    It’s absolutely fascinating, and it’s possible to stay with Amazigh people in the Atlas mountains during your trip.

    The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the riad owners go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.

    I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.

    They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard. The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.

    They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after the exhilaration outside.

    NB: I have a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.

    2.

    The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship.

    If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful colours and intricate designs, you will be in paradise in the Souks.

    You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products

    You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items at a decent price.

    Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.

    Just be prepared to barter.

    3.

    The food is delicious.

    There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.

    There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.

    The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.

    I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.

    The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.

    Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in

    It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.

    Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.

    There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found around the square.

    This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists and locals than those people who prefer fine dining.

    Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer and the stunning restaurant settings.

    I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee ( see my separate post)

    There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.

    You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.

    4.

    The architecture is absolutely stunning.

    There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely astonishing.

    Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.

    The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.

    I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,

    . Bahia Palace.

    . Madrasa Ben Youssef.

    . The saadian Tombs.

    . The Koutoubia Mosque.

    . The Secret Garden.

    . Bacha Museum.

    Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.

    5.

    Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places

    I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.

    I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..

    There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience the monkeys.

    You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.

    If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.

    Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.

    Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

    Ouzoud Waterfall.

    There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.

    Here are a few other things to take into consideration..

    Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.

    Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.

    I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.

    Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.

    Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

    If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity,

    A place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet  perfectly functional,

    A place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,

    Then Marrakech is for you.

    I would recommend doing your research before visiting. Watch YouTube videos and read travel blogs.

    Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge before you arrive so that you will know what to expect.

    That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will stay with you forever.

    Intricately tiled fountain.

    Continue reading for more information about the places mentioned in this post..

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  • MOROCCAN MINT TEA

    Mint tea is practically a ritual in Marrakesh.

    The traditional way of welcoming guests.
    A woman pours tea at an argan cooperative

    After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive in your riad slightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.

    The owner of the riad gives you the warmest welcome with the biggest smile across his face as he guides you into the beautiful courtyard.

    As you sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water in the fountain and smell the scent of the blossom on the trees, slowly you begin to unwind.

    The owner reappears with an ornate teapot and colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. He begins pouring the fresh mint tea, holding the teapot higher and higher as he pours.

    You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.

    The aroma from the fresh mint leaves is wonderful..

    You begin to feel refreshed as the fragrant scent fills the air.

    This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.

    The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.

    It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.

    After you have drank your tea sweetened with sugar cubes and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic…

    A refreshing cup of mint tea

    Mint tea is everywhere in Marrakech.

    It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit in cafes chatting with their friends.

    The name for mint tea is ‘atay’ in Moroccan darija

    It is known by the locals as  ‘Morroccan Whisky’

    The tea is made using green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is already sweetened with sugar before serving.

    If you find it a bit too sweet, try it before adding sugar cubes.

    Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, alongside other herbs and spices, and the aromatic aroma tempts the tastebuds.

    You can purchase the little tea glasses in the souks, and they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.

    Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate.

    A traditional Morroccan welcome.

    Sipping mint tea and overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a very enjoyable experience in Marrakech.

    One you will remember for years to come..

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  • WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MARRAKECH?

    Marrakech is an all year round destination.

    I’ve put together a few helpful tips to help you decide when you should travel.

    Jamaa El Fna when it’s quiet

    Marrakech has a high desert climate so it is pleasant all year round.

    During the summer months, temperatures can reach a staggering 45°C or higher, which a lot of visitors find unbearably hot.

    The Winter months can be moderately warm and sunny, feeling chillier in the evenings.

    I suggest the best time to go is during the spring, from March till May or in autumn, from September till November.

    March sees warm, sunny weather, and you can dine on the rooftops in the evening. However, I would recommend taking a lightweight jacket to throw on if it feels a bit chilly.

    It gets warmer as the month progresses.

    March is the wettest month experiencing 12mm of rain over a day, so it is worth bearing this in mind also.

    June is the driest month with 1mm of rainfall over one day but temperatures in June and July do tend to soar.

    This might make excursions and activities more uncomfortable.

    If you prefer going when there are less tourists, I would suggest January to February.

    The climate is sunny, with average highs of 19°C and lows of 6°C during the evening.

    This would be the ideal time to visit if you’re put off by crowds and long queues.

    Another thing to consider is that Ramadan takes place between February and April, so some stores and restaurants may be closed.

    I choose to visit in late March and late September.

    The Jacaranda trees along the main roads in Gueliz look really beautiful, and the air is really fragrant at this time of year.

    Gueliz in September

    The last time I went during March, it was quite hot, and I actually got sunburnt.

    It was Ramadan, but it didn’t have a negative effect on my trip. Most places were still open as usual, and the service was excellent.

    The tours and excursions still went ahead, and I had a good shopping experience.

    In the souks

    September was very humid.

    I found it more challenging to walk around the palaces and stand in long queues.

    The humidity was rather draining, and I found between 3.00pm and 7.00pm particularly warm and stuffy.

    Marrakech is an all year round destination, so if you do decide to visit during the summer months, I have a few suggestions to help you cope with the heat..

    Plan to visit tourist attractions in the morning as soon as they open.

    If you pre book, you will avoid waiting in long queues in the heat, and there will be fewer people around.

    Pace yourself.

    Alternate between sightseeing and finding places in the shade to have a long cool drink and avoid too much sun exposure. There are plenty of beautiful spots with banana trees and beautiful tall palms to relax beneath.

    Wear cotton or linen clothing.

    Natural fibres are breathable and perfect for wearing in hot weather. Choose loose clothing that covers your arms and shoulders. They allow the air to circulate and help to evaporate sweat, keeping you cooler.

    Stay hydrated.

    Carry bottled water at all times to keep yourself from dehydrating.There are plenty of little kiosks dotted about selling reasonably priced water. Check the seals before purchasing for peace of mind.

    Plan to do more during the evening.

    Some of the tours begin later in the day, and trips to Agafay desert begin before sunset. The square comes alive in the evening, and most of the souks are still trading until quite late.

    Wear high factor sunblock and keep your head covered.

    The sun can be pretty fierce, and it’s easy to burn when you’re up on the rooftops, even in March.

    Visit the water slides of Oasiria or bathe in the pools around the city.

    Take advantage of the air conditioning available and consider taking an afternoon nap.

    Don’t attempt to visit the Sahara unless it’s in the cooler months.

    It’s important to remember that Marrakech is worth visiting all year round. However, it’s a personal choice, and you have to decide whether you can handle certain weather conditions or not.

    If you follow these few simple rules, you should have an enjoyable visit whatever time of year you decide to travel.

    It’s about planning your trip wisely.

    Consider what it is you want from your experience.

    Are you put off by crowds of tourists all crammed into the souks at the same time?

    Can you handle the extreme heat, or are you happy to pack some clothing for cooler temperatures in January?

    Whatever time you decide to go, I can tell you that the sun always shines in Marrakech, and the locals are always smiling..

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  • JOIN ME ON A FASCINATING JOURNEY AROUND MARRAKECH

    An introduction to the red city of Marrakech in North Africa.

    If Africa is a peacock, Morocco is its tail

    Welcome to my blog featuring everything you need to know about Marrakech.

    I include my own personal stories, experiences, and adventures, giving an authentic insight into the red city of Marrakech.

    My name is Freebird Tracey, and I’ve been a regular visitor to Marrakech for many years.

    As a solo female traveller, I have always felt safe travelling around Marrakech. The friendly locals treat me with respect wherever I go, always helpful and always with a smile.

    I believe I have found my happy place in the sunshine amongst the fragrance of orange blossom, the vibrant colours, and the magical sounds of Jamaa El Fna.

    Marrakech is a diverse and magical city, steeped in history. 

    From its beautiful Islamic architecture to the culinary delights and fine craftsmanship on display, there is something to tempt the senses on every corner.

    I never get tired of exploring this alluring, magnetising corner of our planet.

    There is always something new to see, and it’s full of little surprises.

    Marrakech is an assault on the senses..

    Allow me to take you on a fascinating journey to North Africa and show you how to make the most of your time in Marrakech.

    I will share interesting articles and suggest the best places to eat, including vegetarian and vegan options.

    I will tell you where to find cool bars that serve alcohol with live music.

    If you’re interested in activities, excursions, or day trips, I will share some of my own personal experiences with you.

    I will give you truthful  opinions, honest reviews, and provide helpful suggestions to get the most out of your visit.

    I share tips on how to stay safe and what to do to make sure you have the best experience whilst visiting Marrakech.

    This is a tell-all blog at your fingertips..

    So, buckle up and join me on a mind-blowing trip of a lifetime.

    Let me introduce you to the sights, sounds, and tastes of the red city. 

    All beautifully entwined with each other,creating what can only be described as a little piece of heaven here on earth..

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