Author: Freebird Tracey

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • MARRAKECH ON A BUDGET.

    Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a budget.

    Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank.

    In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.

    It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.

    I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.

    1.

    Book your flight early.

    The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.

    2.

    If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.

    3.

    Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.

    4.

    Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.

    4.

    Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.

    5.

    There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.

    Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate post about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.

    Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.

    Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.

    Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.

    6.

    Try a public hammam.

    I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.

    Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.

    You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.

    7.

    Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.

    Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.

    You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will work it out eventually.

    There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.

    8.

    Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.

    9.

    Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.

    10.

    Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.

    11.

    Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.

    Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.

    It’s a destination that is accessible for everyone, including those on a tighter budget.

    With some careful planning, you can put together an interesting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.

    If you need help to organise your trip or advice on places to eat or stay, reach out and leave me an email using the contact details below..

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  • THE AMAZIGH PEOPLE.

    A brief history of the indigenous people of Morocco.

    An Amazigh Woman displaying her Headdress.

    The Berbers, also known as the Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.

    They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.

    The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.

    This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.

    The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires.

    Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers. During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and  throwing their society into chaos.

    The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance. 

    Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.

    The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.

    The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’

    Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.

    It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.

    A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.

    You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.

    This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.

    The Souks sell beautiful Berber jewellery and rugs made by the Berber ladies.

    Images Freebird Tracey.

    See my separate post on Berber rugs.

    Beautiful Amazigh Women.

    For more information contact

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  • A TRADITIONAL MORROCCAN HAMMAM.

    Experience a true taste of Marrakechi culture.

    One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.

    A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.

    It was a ritualistic cleansing that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.

    Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.

    Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.

    During a treatment, morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.

    It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.

    The scrubbing is quite vigorous.

    This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.

    A clay called Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body as it’s rich in minerals like silica,magnesium, and calcium.

    After this, your whole body is lathered thoroughly, including your hair with a gentler soap or gel.

    The next treatment is an all-over massage using exquisite oils like rose oil or argan oil..

    The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.

    Relaxing in heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.

    Once the treatment is finished,  you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries..

    The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the ambience.

    There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.

    The public or private hammam.

    The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.

    In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.

    These are much less expensive.

    The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.

    Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.

    You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.

    The underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for the male underwear instead.

    Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable or uncomfortable being so exposed with just a disposable thong hiding your modesty.

    The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very professional.

    Most women do get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.

    Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh. It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.

    Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service.

    Other popular hammams are,

    . Hammam de la rose.

    . Mamounia Hamman..

    . Les Bains Ziani.

    Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it,  check beforehand.

    Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.

    It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.

    Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.

    Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.

    I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.

    However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.

    You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, near the spice square.

    You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.

    Riads organise their own..

    Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear..

    For more information;

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  • THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN YOU VISIT MARRAKECH.

    A few helpful tips you may find useful before arriving in Marrakesh.

    Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.

    In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.

    There are 🏧 machines located around the city.

    I use the one outside the post office near where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.

    The exchange rate is good, and it was always working.

    You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.

    There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.

    It’s advisable to always carry a small amount of cash with you.

    It’s useful for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.

    Something you may want to consider if you don’t wish to get any cash at the airport is..

    Make sure to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.

    Most accommodations will do this for you when you book, and it’s prepaid.

    You will probably need a SIM card.

    I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.

    This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived.

    Having data gave me reassurance as a solo traveller.

    I could use Google maps in the souks, which was helpful in case I got lost.

    Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually exceptionally good.

    So it’s nice to be nice.

    I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.

    You can drink the tap water allegedly.

    Personally, I didn’t.

    I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus it doesn’t taste that good.

    There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell water.

    Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.

    Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.

    The same applies to shopping in the souks.

    Aim to arrive at places like Bacha Coffee and Bahia Palace for around 9.30.am.

    Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.

    However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.

    Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.

    NB: See my separate post on what to wear when visiting Marrakech.

    Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.

    There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.

    Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.

    Some high-end riads and hotels will have alcohol also.

    It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.

    If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.

    The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.

    People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.

    It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.

    Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.

    Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.

    Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.

    The locals will love telling you all about it..

    There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a dirhams.

    I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.

    Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.

    Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.

    The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.

    I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.

    NB: See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.

    Happy travels.

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  • HENNA ART CAFE.

    A great place to visit for a spot of lunch in the medina.

    Interior of Henna Art Cafe

    The first place I go after arriving in the medina is Henna Art Cafe.

    It’s the perfect spot to stop and refuel myself.

    I can familiarise myself with where I am and check Google maps for the location of my riad.

    It’s a quirky place with decent food and the funkiest little bathroom, even if it is a bit of a tight squeeze.

    On the first floor, you can get henna tattoos done, and there are plenty of designs to choose from.

    All are 100% natural.

    It’s a really relaxing vibe here, and I often enjoy a light snack at lunchtime whilst shopping in the medina.

    It’s also very reasonably priced.

    There is a good selection of food on the menu, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options are available.

    There is free WiFi, and you can often find digital nomads enjoying a quick bite to eat here. 

    It’s a friendly place and a good introduction to the medina without being too in your face..

    Henna Art Cafe is located in the heart of the medina, just  three minutes stroll down Riad Zeitoun al Kdim from Djemma El Fna.

    It is open 7 days a week from 11 to 8.30 PM.

    During Ramadan, it closes earlier at 5.30 PM.

    A refreshing glass of lemonade
    A simple vegetable tagine
    Silver babouche cutlery holders

    Payment is taken downstairs on the way out, and cards are accepted here.

    After a nice meal and a rest at Henna Art Cafe, I’m ready to tackle the challenge of trying to locate my riad.

    Lunch upstairs on the terrace
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  • FIVE THINGS I LOVE AND HATE ABOUT MARRAKECH.

    A list of my favourite and more challenging things in Marrakech.

    Colourful Babouches

    Marrakech is ‘my happy place’. It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Hivernage in the new part of the city.

    Visitors may find the experience to be an assault on the senses.

    The lively sounds, sights, and smells can be a complete overload on the senses and somewhat overwhelming to the most seasoned traveller.

    However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech.

    You do become accustomed to it, and it’s part of the charm of Marrakech.

    I have made a list of the 5 things that I myself love and hate about this fascinating city to help you get the most out of your visit.

    Here are the 5 things I hate about Marrakech.

    1.

    If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.

    The monkeys on chains and the snakes (which you are encouraged to have a photo taken with) are difficult to accept.

    Don’t encourage this.

    The monkies have been brought down from the Atlas mountains, and although people need to make a living, they clearly don’t want to be there.

    Then there are the horses, taking tourists through busy traffic and the donkeys pulling carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.

    The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.

    The donkeys look overworked and neglected.

    It’s the culture of the city, but very different from what I’m used to.

    I avoided eye contact with the  snake charmers and monkeys in the square, and they stopped approaching me eventually.

    There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of the riads.

    They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring as a rule.

    If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.

    I joined Brooke, a sanctuary, for working animals abroad when I arrived home.

    I can’t change how people earn their money, but I can help to educate them.

    2.

    Queueing at the airport.

    Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so get used to it.

    Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.

    You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.

    Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.

    Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.

    3.

    Marrakech is touristy.

    The narrow alleys of the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.

    Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.

    Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it will certainly feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.

    Tip: Plan to visit in January or November to avoid the crowds.

    It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.

    There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will get that perfect photo opportunity.

    Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors. They don’t feel comfortable about it and may even expect a payment from you.

    4.

    The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks.

    Everyone in Marrakech seems to own a motorcycle, and they all appear to be riding them at the same time.

    The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.

    This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.

    There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get busy.

    Around 9.00 is an ideal time.

    There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.

    Pollution is fairly bad, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.

    5.

    The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.

    During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.

    This includes the locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.

    The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors can follow you persistently with a menu to get your custom.

    Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries of what’s considered to be harassment

    It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations

    The henna ladies are also demanding your custom.

    It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them without your consent.

    Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to make eye contact with any of the vendors.

    Saying “ La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.

    It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.

    Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.

    Whilst it’s difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors vying for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive.

    Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.

    So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

    A lovely man shows me inside the Hammam/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’

    I am absolutely in love with this city.

    Here’s why…

    1.

    The people are wonderful.

    You can expect to encounter the friendliest and most welcoming people you have ever met.

    They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.

    They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.

    They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.

    It’s absolutely fascinating, and it’s possible to stay with Amazigh people in the Atlas mountains during your trip.

    The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the riad owners go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.

    I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.

    They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard. The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.

    They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after the exhilaration outside.

    NB: I have a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.

    2.

    The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship.

    If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful colours and intricate designs, you will be in paradise in the Souks.

    You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products

    You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items at a decent price.

    Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.

    Just be prepared to barter.

    3.

    The food is delicious.

    There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.

    There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.

    The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.

    I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.

    The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.

    Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in

    It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.

    Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.

    There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found around the square.

    This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists and locals than those people who prefer fine dining.

    Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer and the stunning restaurant settings.

    I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee ( see my separate post)

    There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.

    You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.

    4.

    The architecture is absolutely stunning.

    There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely astonishing.

    Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.

    The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.

    I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,

    . Bahia Palace.

    . Madrasa Ben Youssef.

    . The saadian Tombs.

    . The Koutoubia Mosque.

    . The Secret Garden.

    . Bacha Museum.

    Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.

    5.

    Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places

    I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.

    I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..

    There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience the monkeys.

    You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.

    If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.

    Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.

    Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

    Ouzoud Waterfall.

    There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.

    Here are a few other things to take into consideration..

    Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.

    Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.

    I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.

    Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.

    Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

    If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity,

    A place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet  perfectly functional,

    A place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,

    Then Marrakech is for you.

    I would recommend doing your research before visiting. Watch YouTube videos and read travel blogs.

    Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge before you arrive so that you will know what to expect.

    That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will stay with you forever.

    Intricately tiled fountain.

    Continue reading for more information about the places mentioned in this post..

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  • GETTING AROUND MARRAKECH.

    The best options for exploring the red city.

    Walking around Marrakech

    Marrakech is easily doable on foot.

    If you’re staying in the medina, you can get to most places relatively quickly by walking.

    If this is not easy for you or the heat is a bit much, the other option is to take a tuk- tuk.

    Most riads can organise a pick-up point and give the driver directions to where you need to go.

    It’s a fun way to get around, and some of them are rather elaborately decorated.

    They rattle through the souks, competing with the motorcycles, donkeys, and pedestrians.

    Another option is to take a taxi.

    Check with your hotel or riad beforehand, and find out how much you should be paying to travel the distance you want to go.

    It’s not uncommon for taxi drivers to try to charge more, so stick to your guns and, if necessary, walk away.

    There are plenty of drivers available, and they are all competing with each other for fares, so you don’t have to put up with being ripped off.

    I only used taxis to get from the medina to Jardin Majorelle and Gueliz. It was a warm day, and I didn’t feel like walking in the sun.

    After a little polite negotiation, there were no problems, and I paid the correct fare, give or take a few dirhams.

    There are many tourists who pay to see the city on horse-drawn carriages.

    Horse-drawn carriage in Marrakech

    The horses are taken into the chaotic traffic, and I’ve witnessed a few upsetting incidents where they’ve been hit by a car.

    There doesn’t appear to be any rules on the roads, and they’re pretty crazy. The horses look scared and I’ve seen them freeze in the centre of the traffic.

    It’s a personal decision if you want to take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage. However, I would suggest only going around the medina walls and during the evening.

    It’s quieter for the horses than the madness of the busy main roads in the exhausting heat.

    Part of the fun in Marrakesh is walking from A to B..

    There are so many interesting things to see and you miss so much if you don’t walk.

    I especially enjoyed walking through the kasbah, seeing the locals going about their business and getting a feel for the real Marrakech.

    There are also walking tours around Marrakech, which you can book.

    These tours take you around the tourist hot spots, usually in a group of people.

    NB. There are separate tours for food sampling.

    It’s also possible to hire a bicycle if you’re brave enough.

    Check out Cafe Pikala for bicycle hire. It’s very popular.

    The Alsa bus runs around Marrakech for about 2 dirhams. The numbers 1 and 16 will ferry you between the medina and Gueliz.

    For venturing further, there are trains going to places like Casablanca daily.

    There is a good service, and prices and times can be found online.

    A rest in the shade after walking around Marrakech
  • MAJORELLE GARDEN.

    The stunning botanical garden called Le Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech.

    Lilypads and Koi Carp at Majorelle Garden.

    Inside the beautiful Majorelle Garden, there are over 300 stunning plant species from all over the world.

    Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees amongst a labyrinth of pathways.

    The incredibly tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species coexist together to create one of the most beautiful gardens in marrakech.

    Two acres of botanical landscape gardens.

    Originally designed by Jean Majorelle in the 1920s.

    After he was forced to abandon his home because of divorce, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development in 1980.

    They restored it and made it their home, bringing the garden back to it’s former glory.

    For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent

    There is a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge in the garden. 

    Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it a less than tranquil place to sit and reflect.

    I would have loved to have sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation, admiring the pop of colour from the bougainvillea, but I was never alone for very long.

    The attractive art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place for visitors to get their photographs taken.

    The colourful pavilion
    The exotic blue and Islamic green tiles.

    There is also a cafe and shop.

    I purchased some postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ yearly ‘Love’ drawings.

    I didn’t go to the cafe because there were too many people and the queues were really long.

    Yves Saint Laurent early ‘Love’ drawings

    The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm.

    I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am, preferably at opening time if you want a more peaceful experience.

    Luckily, I had prebooked online, so I didn’t have to queue.

    I’m thankful that I did because the queues were really long, and it was a very hot day for standing around without any shade.

    The YSL museum is also part of the visit, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a look around if you are interested in Berber history. 

    Opening times are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.

    You can’t take photographs inside the museum.

    The price varies depending on where you purchase tickets from but you can expect to pay approximately €24 to visit everything.

    There are plenty of nice restaurants outside the gardens, and I decided to get something to eat and drink in one of those. It was much quieter.

    I recommend My Kawa for a nice salad.

    There are a few shops across the road from Majorelle Garden selling souvenirs and a few attractive boutiques.

    Shopping around Majorelle Garden

    Stuff was a bit pricey, but I picked up some nice jasmine oil at a fairly decent price.

    Overall, Majorelle Garden was absolutely beautiful. It is  colourful and lush with several spots to sit and absorb the exotic sights and sounds.

    However, it is incredibly busy with tourists, which detracts from the calm sense of serenity you’d expect to get from such a delightful setting.

    It was worth visiting for the wonderful trees and plants and to get some great photos, but unless you go very early during the quiet season, you won’t get a peaceful, relaxing vibe..

    Majorelle Garden is located to the north west of Marrakech medina.

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  • THE MARRAKECHI CATS.

    The life of a cat in Marrakech.

    Watching the world go by/image Freebird Tracey.

    One of the things you will notice when you’re in Marrakech is the number of stray cats everywhere.

    I was surprised to see so many, especially around the busy square, and in the souks.

    They seemed to dodge the many motorcycles and hide inconspicuously under the juice stalls.

    There were cats sleeping on rugs and cushion covers in the souks, and lazing about without a care in the world.

    I witnessed strays giving birth to kittens inside alleyways and watched as cats prowled across rooftop perimeters at dawn.

    Five years ago, when I first visited Marrakech, I took pity on the cute little kittens hanging around outside my riad.

    They looked thin and hungry, I wanted to do something to help them..

    Cats inside the souks/image Freebird Tracey.

    I purchased a couple of tins of sardines and carefully wrapped the leftovers from my dinner into napkins.

    I found a couple of cats and strategically placed the food in a safe place for them.

    Stray cats outside the riad/images Freebird Tracey.

    The next minute, there were  so many cats appearing out of nowhere, also demanding to be fed.

    This made me feel very guilty because I’d only managed to afford them a few tiny morsels.

    It was a case of first come, first served..

    I went back to the UK feeling a little sorry for all the homeless cats who alerted passing tourists of their existence with a gentle mewing and extended paw.

    The next time I arrived at marrakech, I saw things from a different perspective.

    I stayed in three separate riads, and each one had a resident cat, who was very well cared for.

    I noticed restaurants leaving food outside their premises and butchers dropping scraps of meat on the floor for the local cat population to eat.

    A cat waiting for scraps of meat/image Freebird Tracey.

    Many of the cats were being looked after, and some were actually thriving on the titbits and bowls of food dotted around the medina.

    Cats sleeping peacefully in the souks/image Freebird Tracey.
    A friendly stray waits for a morsel of food/image, Freebird Tracey.

    There was only one upsetting incident where a young man was sitting with a kitten on his lap, and it was holding a business card in its paws.

    On closer inspection, it isn’t something I ever want to see again, and I don’t feel the need to go into more detail here..

    I’m sure you can imagine what I saw.

    That was the only startling discovery I have made.

    On the whole, the cats appear to be relatively content.

    They don’t exist in the way domesticated cats do in the west, but they’re not being ill treated any more than anywhere else in the world.

    I even saw a man get off his motorcycle in the busy souk and move a little kitten to the safety of an alleyway.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re coming to Marrakech, seeing all the stray cats may shock you initially.

    I was exactly the same, but after closer observation, I came to the conclusion that the situation wasn’t as dire as I first thought.

    There are plenty of little pools of water around the city for the cats to drink from, and some vendors leave glasses of water out for them.

    The crazy traffic and crowds of tourists seem to be the biggest problem, but the cats have learnt how to navigate their way around.

    I’m happy to say that I haven’t seen an injured cat at the side of any of the roads around Marrakech yet.

    There are tourists who are rescuing stray cats around Marrakech and taking them back to European countries.

    They are working with local vets to get injured cats treated and all the necessary vaccinations done before taking them out of the country.

    The cats in Marrakesh have learnt how to survive.

    They only know this life, and people are kind and compassionate towards them on the whole.

    Plus, I’ve never seen a single rat in Marrakesh..

    A family of Stray cats in marrakech/images Freebird Tracey.
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  • AN UNFORGETTABLE EVENING IN THE AGAFAY DESERT.

    Camels, sunsets, and a fire show that left me speechless.

    Stunning scenery at Agafay desert

    We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.

    The journey took around 45 minutes in total even though we seemed to be driving across the gravelly desert for what seemed like ages.

    There were camels with their young calfs dotted about, looking fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists driving past slowly.

    On arrival, we could hear music playing from our camp a short distance away from where we were parked.

    Our guide led us to tables overlooking the vast expansive desert. The panoramic view was absolutely breathtaking..

    We could see for miles.

    Images of our camp at Agafay desert

    Our camp was really pretty, with colourful seats and rugs scattered everywhere.

    There was a Berber tent for us to shelter in, and we could also eat inside there if we wanted to since it was slightly windy.

    After a hot, sweet mint tea, we all took the optional camel ride..

    All aboard the camels

    It was rather a scary experience because my camel came untied and got a bit frisky with the one in front.

    After he was reattached, we continued a bit further for a short while before turning around and heading back to disembark.

    That was also something of a nerve-wracking experience.

    I wobbled about on my camels back as he dropped down to the ground in the most undignified manner.

    I probably wouldn’t do that part of the trip again, but everyone else seemed to really enjoy it.

    Immediately after we got off the camels, our meal was presented to us.

    It was a three course meal consisting of vegetable soup with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine followed by cakes and fruit for dessert.

    Fresh food cooked beautifully in Agafay desert.

    We ate watching the beautiful golden sun go down. The sky was fiery red.

    It was absolutely stunning.

    I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen.

    A spectacular sunset

    We ate our meal, with traditional musicians playing their instruments around the tables.

    It was very entertaining.

    Traditional musicians entertaining visitors.

    As soon as dinner was over, more merriment began..

    The dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires and attempting to mimic the traditional Berber dancing.

    The atmosphere was incredible.

    Everyone was out of their seats, clapping and enjoying themselves.

    The stars came out, and the campfires roared.

    The temperature had cooled down, but we were soon nice and warm again.

    After the lively display of Berber dancing had finished, we all sat down to catch our breath once more.

    The air was full of laughter, and spirits were high.

    Soon, the grand finale was about to begin..

    A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert.

    It was completely dark by now, and the visual effects were totally hypnotising.

    Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display.

    It was the highlight of the whole evening.

    We were completely blown away, watching the flames leaping about against the back drop of the vast dark desert.

    I certainly wasn’t expecting anything quite as fantastic as that!

    The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close.

    It had been a wonderful evening.

    We had tasty food, the entertainment was a lot of fun, the fire display was incredible, and the camel ride was rather… interesting!

    Everyone was able to participate in what turned out to be a very enjoyable time.

    We were taken back to our meeting point near Jamaa El Fna.

    The cost of the excursion was well worth the money, and I would highly recommend it.

    I booked my trip through Get Your Guide.

    I believe there are a few different desert camps.

    Some have better facilities than others, and some include a different itinerary. The cost varies, so do check what activities you are getting before you book.

    Hotels and riads can also organise the trip for you, if you prefer, although you may pay slightly more.

    It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay luxury camp.

    There is a swimming pool and other amenities with a more luxurious touch.

    Check Booking.com or look for reputable online sites for details about staying there.

    There are a few things to consider if you plan to visit Agafay desert camp..

    Take a warm sweater or blanket, the evenings drop cooler, and you may find the wind is a little bit blustery in some camps.

    There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.

    There are vegetarian options available. I had vegetable tagine, and the other people in my group had chicken.

    The guides are excellent at their job.

    I have been several times and they always find us at the end of the evening. No one gets left behind.

    Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert.

    I really enjoyed this and   purchased some argan oil for my skin. It was a decent quality oil and lasted me ages.

    The tour usually finishes around 9.30-10.00.

    I went in March and September and enjoyed it both times.

    Despite it being Ramadan in March, I was impressed how well I was looked after.

    I think I may take a journey to the Sahara desert next.

    Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life..

    Ships of the desert/ image Freebird Tracey
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