The Spice Square, also known as Rahba Kedima, is a smaller market, less densely packed with tourists.
It is located at the end of Souk Semmarine and a five minute walk from Jamaa El Fna.
It is here that you will find a wonderful selection of spices, including saffron, cumin, and turmeric.
The spices are beautifully displayed in pyramids around the square, and the air is fragrant with the scent of incense.
There are dried herbs, oils, potions, tea, and the traditional Moroccan lip stain.
The Spice Square is the traditional apothecary of Marrakech and a treasure trove of Moroccan culture.
In the Spice Square, you will also find hand woven baskets, hats, baby tortoises, and a range of shops selling Amazigh jewellery and other stuff.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
It is a vibrant, colourful market with a less frantic pace than Jamaa El Fna.
It is home to popular restaurants like the Cafe Des Espices, a rooftop restaurant that overlooks the market.
Nomad is also in close proximity to the Spice Square.
The Spice Square is not far from the Medersa Ben Youseff and Marrakech museum, so it’s ideal for making it part of your day when visiting both of these attractions.
Until the 20th century, Rahba Kedima was the cities grain market and the place where slaves were sold.
It is now the epicentre of the medina where you can pick up the famous Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout and watch the spice sellers who come down from the mountain villages at 4.00 in the afternoon to sell their trade to the professionals.
The smells and colours are heady with friendly vendors, demonstrating the benefits of eucalyptus.
The Spice Square is a photogenic place where you will be met with a glimpse of trading traditions from the past.
It’s the perfect balance between a bustling market experience and a relaxing, more laid-back atmosphere.
An authentic district of Marrakech with more local people.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The Kasbah is a quieter part of Marrakech, with fewer tourists than the medina.
Staying in the Kasbah, you feel totally immersed in the culture of Marrakech as you rub shoulders with the friendly locals.
There are plenty of restaurants and shops including a good fixed price store selling everything you will find in the souks at a realistic price.
*See my separate post on Dar Bouchaib.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Inside the Kasbah, you can visit tourist attractions like the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.
Zeitoune Cafe overlooking the mosque is a lovely spot for lunch or a drink whilst taking a break from sightseeing.
Sitting outside on the colourful cushions people watching in the Moroccan sun was quite an experience.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The kasbah is about 15 to 20 minutes leisurely walking from the main square with plenty to see along the way.
The walk is interesting, with many shops and vendors selling all kinds of stuff.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
In the kasbah, there are a range of budget and high-end riads to stay in.
It is definitely quieter than the medina.
I stayed in Riad Hikaya, it was absolutely lovely and a totally relaxing few days for me.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
*See my separate article about staying at Riad Hikaya.
The Kasbah is the historical citadel in Marrakesh with fortified walls.
The narrow alleyways make it an exciting place to visit, and there are fewer motorcycles and donkeys trying to negotiate the streets at the same time as you, making it less stressful than the medina.
There are plenty of good restaurants to enjoy nice food so you won’t have to go too far.
The Kasbah is home to the Clock restaurant and its legendary camel burger and storytelling evenings.
Also, the Kasbah Cafe is a popular place for lunch and dinner.
Krepchy does a fantastic breakfast, and the prices are very reasonable.
I highly recommend the waffles.
To return from the medina, consider taking a tuk-tuk if the weather is hot.
It’s quite an adventure in itself as you rattle along the bumpy streets.
Spending an hour or two enjoying this interesting area of Marrakech is definitely worth it.
The locals are very friendly, and it was a pleasure getting the opportunity to sit and chat with them.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I would recommend staying in the kasbah if you prefer a quieter, more authentic experience in Marrakech.
El Badi Palace was built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor of the Saadian dynasty.
The palace was built to showcase the considerable wealth of the Saadian dynasty and was a prime example of Islamic architecture and exquisite craftsmanship.
Using both Moroccan and European influences, the palace was beautifully decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, marble arches, and ornate carvings.
The palace was home to the sultans harem and included over 500 women.
Now, only the ruins remain.
After Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor died in 1603, the palace fell into neglect and was subsequently stripped away with the materials being used for other buildings in Morocco.
The palace is certainly worth a visit if you want to learn about the history of Marrakech and the ruling elite centuries ago.
The exhibition space contains the Almoravid Minbar, which is a finely decorated pulpit that once stood in the Koutoubia Mosque.
It also hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions.
The underground chambers contain information and photographs about the palaces history.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The palace was badly damaged during the earthquake in 2023, and renovations have taken place to repair the cracks in the walls.
El Badi Palace is situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech and a popular tourist attraction.
The courtyards are impressive, and the nesting storks on the towers give it a magical feel.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
You get a sense of the grandeur of the Saadian dynasty, and there’s a feeling of peace and tranquillity within the walls of the once opulent palace.
El Badi Palace is open every day from 9.00am to 5.00pm and costs 100 dirhams to enter.
It is the first Moroccan tea house in marrakech, serving 12 teas from the 12 areas of Morrocco.
Set inside a former riad, it is a beautiful place to come and sample the 12 delicious teas on offer, along with modern oriental cakes.
There is table service, and the food is nicely presented, tasty, and varied.
There is a selection of light snacks to accompany your choice of tea available on the menu also.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The name 1112 signifies the date 1700 in the gregorian calendar and is etched into the wooden ceiling of the riad.
The riad was beautifully restored by a morroccan family who have been renowned for their expertise in the restoration of such properties since the 1990s.
The architecture is beautiful. Wooden ceilings, intricate tile work, and exotic plants make it a delightful environment for sitting and reflecting on the past history of the importance of tea in Morrocco.
There are interesting facts about the introduction of tea into Morocco and a shop selling nicely packaged tea if you’re looking for a gift to take home with you.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
1112 has a nice rooftop.
After exploring the museum, it is worthwhile taking a look around this exquisite riad and savouring the whole experience.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Situated close to Ben Youssef, the address is;
12 Place De La Kissariat, Ben Youssef,
Marrakech.
They are open for breakfast and lunch.
What a lovely way to begin the day, or take a peaceful break from exploring the busy medina..
Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.
They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.
Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.
For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.
They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.
Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.
To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.
There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug..
1. Shearing the Sheep
Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife.
The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip.
The wool is then sorted and cleaned.
It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.
The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.
2. Carding.
Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn. To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.
This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction.
Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn. Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable.
The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.
The women are often responsible for this process.
3. Spinning the wool into yarn.
To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle.
This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom.
The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands.
As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.
4. Weaving the rug.
The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.
This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last for many years. The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.
The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.
Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.
The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design. The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.
The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.
The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.
Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task, and the women of the village who weave them rarely get anything near the price they’re sold for.
Husbands load them onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer who gives him a fraction of their value.
Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.
They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.
There are a few scams, so be mindful before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local, promising you the best quality and prices.
Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.
The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.
Morocco took its name from Marrakech.
The Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the Western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.
During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.
They constructed an underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.
They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.
His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.
He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.
In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.
They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque, which is the largest mosque in Marrakech and a significant landmark.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.
They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.
They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.
This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.
The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.
They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne.
Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but the Merinids much preferred the city of Fez, which resulted in Marrakech going into serious decline.
Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.
Because of this move to Fez, Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected.
The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.
From 1578-1603, the Saadian Sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power.
They restored the city to its former glory and established Marrakech as its capital city.
They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.
The Saads built Bab Doukkala mosque in 1557-1571 and Mouassine mosque in 1562-72.
They also built the Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.
The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries.
They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.
They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.
They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, redeveloping it’s infrastructure.
It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.
Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.
Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.
The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.
They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.
In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.
Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.
It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.
In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.
It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.
Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.
Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.
As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating.
It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..
A brief history of the indigenous people of North Africa.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Berbers, also known as Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.
They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.
The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.
This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.
The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires. Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.
During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and throwing their society into chaos.
The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance.
Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.
The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.
The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’
Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.
It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.
A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.
You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.
This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.
There is a lot of beautiful jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh people for sale in the medina.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco.
To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum.
Both places are fascinating and gave me a deeper insight into the history of Amazigh culture.
After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive at your riad.
At this point, you’re feeling lightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.
The manager of the riad gives you the warmest welcome and guides you into the beautiful courtyard.
You sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water from the fountain and smell the fragrance of blossom on the trees.
Slowly, you begin to unwind.
The manager reappears with an ornate teapot with colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives.
The tea is poured, holding the teapot higher and higher.
This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.
The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.
You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.
It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.
Video by Freebird Tracey.
The aroma from the fresh mint leaves begins to fill the air around you.
Soon, you are feeling refreshed and accustomed to your new surroundings.
After you have drank your sweet tea and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic.
The image of Google Maps not working and dragging your luggage through narrow alleyways crammed with tourists starts to become a distant memory.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Mint tea is served everywhere in Marrakech.
It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit inside cafes chatting with their friends.
I highly recommend 1112 Moroccan Tea House. They serve wonderful tea, and there is a room telling you all about the history of the tea.
It’s situated inside a beautiful riad, and it’s the first Moroccan tea house in Marrakech.
I’ve also written a separate article about 1112 Moroccan Tea House.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Drinking mint tea is a central part of Moroccan social life.
The name for mint tea is ‘atay’ in Moroccan darija
It is known by the locals as ‘Morroccan Whisky’
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The tea is made using gunpowder green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is often sweetened with sugar cubes before serving.
If you find it a bit too sweet, ask to have the sugar cubes separately.
That way, you have control over how sweet it is.
Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, and the strong aroma is evident when you walk past.
You can purchase the ornate tea glasses in the souks, along with the traditional teapots, they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.
Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate and can break easily.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Moroccan mint tea has many health benefits.
It improves digestion, helps to improve oral health, is a natural decongestant, and provides antioxidants that support good mental well-being, skincare, and alertness.
Sipping mint tea overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a nice way to experience Marrakech.
Everyone visiting Marrakech should stay in a traditional riad at least once.
If you want a taste of authentic Moroccan life, spending time in a riad inside the walls of the medina will give you one.
Traditional zellige tiles and the sound of trickling water from the ornate fountain in the central courtyard is just a small part of what riad life has to offer.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Riads are the homes once lived in by the well-to-do of Marrakech.
Whole families lived inside them, and they offered a private, secluded place, especially for the women in the family.
They are built around a central courtyard with the windows facing inwards and have citrus and palm trees in the centre, reaching up through the open rooftop.
Many have a small pool for cooling off in, and most of them still have their original fountain from when they were first constructed.
The rooftop can be reached by climbing the steep tiled steps.
You will be greeted by a vibrantly coloured seating area where you can escape from the heat and admire the incredible views over the medina.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The interior rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber artefacts, which include colourful rugs, cushions, and exquisitely handcrafted furniture.
Many riads around the medina have been purchased by Westerners, renovated and refurbished to appeal to the ever growing influx of tourists.
A lot of riads still maintain their original appearance, and staying in one is like being immersed in a tale from ‘1001 nights’
Some of the original tiles from hundreds of years ago have been brought back to life, and they exude charm and character.
High-end riads are also beautiful and rather luxurious.
They include bidets and television sets in the rooms.
All riads are charming, and it all depends on whether you favour luxury over authenticity.
My choice of riad is a family owned property, one that still has it’s old world charm and feels as though I’m staying with a Moroccan family.
Like a tale from an ‘Arabian Nights’ adventure, a testimony to the beauty of Islamic architecture and craftsmanship.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Most riads cook delicious home cooked food for their guests and offer cooking lessons.
There is also a hammam and massage service available in most riads.
This is a wonderful experience, and something everyone who comes to Marrakech should indulge in at least once.
Rooms in a riad are usually slightly dark inside.
This keeps them cool in the summer when temperatures can exceed 50°
Some of the windows have intricate screens from when the riad was a harem to keep the women private and secluded.
Waking up to the sound of birds singing in the trees and the gentle flowing of water burbling from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day.
The early morning sunshine reflecting off the beautifully tiled floors puts me in such a happy mood.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Most riads provide their guests with a hearty breakfast, which is sweeter than we are used to in the west.
Some staff cook omelettes, and there is always fresh orange juice and homemade yoghurts and jams served with traditional bread.
The msemen pancakes served with honey and amlou are my absolute favourite.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I love sunbathing on the rooftop, listening to the call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque.
If you’re staying near Jamaa El Fna,you can hear the gnawa musicians and the drumming in the distance.
This is a true immersion in the culture of Marrakech.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
In the evening, I like to watch the sunset from the rooftop.
At dusk, Jamaa El Fnaa comes alive with thousands of visitors.
You can hear the vendors calling out to beckon tourists into their food stalls.
The aroma of the food cooking catches your breath.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Back in the courtyard, you feel as though you are in an oasis.
This calm and peaceful environment is a far cry from what is happening outside the big, heavy wooden door of the riad.
The sound of gentle music plays quietly in the background, creating a sense of tranquillity.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Staff at the riad can suggest places where you can eat and also arrange popular excursions for their guests.
They are eager to please and go above and beyond the call of duty.
For me, staying in a traditional riad has a more intimate feeling than a hotel.
I like to spend a few days having what I call, a riad experience, and enjoying the culture of Marrakech like a true local.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Whether it’s a former palace or a family owned business, staying in a riad is one of the most authentic experiences you can have when you come to Marrakech.
Sounds Of The Souks 