Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: Marrakech

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • RIAD BOHEMIAN JUNGLE.

    The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech.

    It exudes charm and authenticity.

    The interior decor is simply captivating, with several tastily put-together nooks and crannies to sit and take in its splendour.

    Interior of the Bohemian Jungle/ Images Freebird Tracey.

    The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in.

    The green tiles and exotic plants make it a stunning focal point of the riad.

    Interior pool/images Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is magical. Surrounded by pretty, draping flowers, plants, and lanterns.

    There are several areas to hang out in.

    A balinese bed for relaxing on and a cerise, romantic boudoir area, where the staff play traditional tuareg music.

    There are areas to catch a spot of sunshine and places to sit where you are shaded.

    This is perfect for when the hot morroccan sun reaches its highest temperature in the day.

    Photos of the rooftop at the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey.

    The staff are relaxed and friendly, and the vibe is laid back and chilled.

    The riad is run by three professional, yet charismatic young men from the Sahara region.

    Their knowledge of the area is invaluable, and they enjoy sharing a little piece of their fascinating culture with guests.

    The breakfasts are varied and wholesome, consisting of a mix of traditional pancakes, honey, and jam.

    Fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.

    Fresh orange juice and coffee.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits, whilst you are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.

    This is helpful for finding your way back to the riad.

    The fragrance inside is intoxicating.

    Orange blossom and cinnamon oil gently floats on the air, the lamps glow, and  Berber music plays subtly in the background.

    I never wanted to leave..

    I was so happy sitting in the riad, taking in the beauty and experiencing the wonder of such a magnificent place..

    Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly.

    If you are looking for TVs and a modern approach to your trip to Marrakech, you won’t find it here.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture, lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.

    It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and several nice shops and restaurants.

    The address is;

    Derb al Maada

    Hay azbezte

    39 Medina, Medina 40030

    Marrakech, Morrocco.

    Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can also be arranged by this riad.

    They are good value for money and well organised.

    Enjoying a moment of tranquillity at the Bohemian Jungle.
    Sunrise from the rooftop of the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey.
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  • IS MARRAKECH SAFE FOR SOLO FEMALE TRAVELLERS?

    I would say that Marrakech is perfectly safe for women who travel alone.

    The overall crime rate is relatively low, and most female travellers have a wonderful experience.

    There are certain things to consider, however.

    Morroccan women dress modestly.

    How you want to be treated will depend on how you present yourself.

    Marrakech is liberal, but showing too much flesh would be considered inappropriate.

    Whilst you’re not expecting to adopt the hijab, you will certainly be regarded favourably if you dress slightly more conservatively.

    Long, silk, or cotton dresses are perfect and keep you cool at the same time.

    Palazzo trousers are comfortable and elegant.

    I wore turbans, and I loved that my hair was tucked away, keeping me from feeling too hot whilst feeling sophisticated.

    The people in Marrakesh are friendly and helpful.

    There may be an occasional situation where you may be asked if you need help to find your riad or the main square.

    Simply decline the offer politely and go about your business.

    Stand your ground when negotiating a price for something. Show you are confident and don’t be afraid to walk away if you’re not happy.

    Some men may cat call or make comments, which may be slightly intrusive.

    Ignore them and move away. If anyone follows you, find a shop vendor or restaurant to sit in or threaten to find a police officer.

    It’s rare that this happens, though..

    Knowing a few words in Arabic or French is always useful.

    ‘Non merci’ or ‘La Shukran’ for ‘no thank you’ should suffice.

    On the whole, I have never felt uncomfortable as a solo female traveller in Marrakech.

    There are plenty of us about wandering through the souks and enjoying the tourist hot-spots.

    Consider using a tour guide or joining a guided tour of the medina if you’re slightly anxious about exploring yourself or it’s your first time.

    There are night tours, street food tours, and registered guides when visiting the local attractions.

    In summary, Marrakech is a great place to visit as a solo female traveller.

    Most people can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city.

    Educate yourself on the cultural norms and differences and respect the local customs and traditions, and you will be perfectly safe.

    You will have a truly wonderful time.

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  • DOES MARRAKECH CATER FOR VEGETARIANS AND VEGANS?

    Whilst it’s true that Marrakech is a meat eaters’ paradise, there are plenty of great restaurants and cafes serving vegetarian and vegan food.

    Not being a meat eater myself, I was initially concerned that I’d spend my time in Marrakesh living off the delicious olives on sale in the souks.

    I was pleasantly surprised.

    There are a number of restaurants popping up that serve only vegetarian and vegan food.

    One I highly recommend is La  Famille.

    Run solely by women,and in an outdoor setting, the food was incredibly good.

    Lunch at La Famille.

    There are also plenty of choices for non meat eaters on the menu in most eateries around the medina.

    Sumptuous vegetable tagine, vegetable couscous, salads, and pasta dishes, to name just a few.

    I never had a problem sourcing tasty and beautifully prepared meals whilst staying in Marrakesh.

    The little cafes tucked away in the souks were slightly less accommodating, but if it’s a quick snack you’re looking for, the fresh olives and delicious pastries are a wonderful treat.

    The abundance of seasonal vegetables, freshly cooked, were mouth wateringly delightful.

    Vegetable tagine with olives and egg plant.

    Harissa soup was also a favourite, deliciously tasty, served with traditional Morroccan bread.

    Harissa soup.

    I highly recommend trying the soup.

    Some restaurants serve healthy brunch, I loved the avocado toast at La Ferme.

    Avocado toast beautiful presented at La Ferme Medina.

    Please don’t be put off visiting Marrakech because you consider it to be a meat eaters paradise only.

    By doing a little bit of research before travelling, you will find a good selection of fine restaurants and cafes serving authentic and traditional Morroccan cuisine that don’t include animal products.

    A few I recommend are;

    La Famille

    La Ferme

    Enjoy your meal, veggie lovers.

    Mandala Society.

    Broc The Kasbah.

    Palais Donab also does a lovely vegetable tagine, and it’s a beautiful place to have lunch or dinner.

    NB. See my separate post about Palais Dar Donab.

    Write down the restaurants you wish to try before travelling, including the address and opening times to save wandering around in the heat and getting tired.

    Bon appetite.

    Colourful, healthy salad in the medina.
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  • POTENTIAL SCAMS TO BE AWARE OF WHEN VISITING MARRAKECH.

    Marrakech is a safe place for travellers with a relatively low crime rate.

    However, like any other destination, there are several things to be mindful of.

    There are a few scams which visitors for the first time to Marrakech should know about.

    .The road is closed.

    This is a regular scam that can leave tourists confused.

    You’re trying to locate your riad or a point of interest, and someone (usually a young male) tells you that the road ahead is closed.

    He asks you your destination and offers to escort you via an alternative route.

    Before you know it, you’re wandering endlessly through the souks until you arrive at his friends shop.

    You’re still lost, and now you’re being offered mint tea whilst his friend brings out a multitude of exotic spices or rugs.

    The male who took you there gets a commission if you cave in and buy something in order to get away.

    If you’re approached in this way, a firm no thank you or La shoukran usually does the trick.

    If he is very persistent, head to a nearest trader, and ask their advice about whether the road is closed or not.

    Make your boundaries clear but remain polite and try not to get too impatient.

    It can be difficult if you’re tired or overwhelmed, but showing your weakness will only show how vulnerable you are feeling, and you may become a target for more opportunists.

    . I can take you to your riad.

    When you first arrive in the medina, you are faced with a maze of alleyways and tunnels.

    Often, your riad will be tucked away inside the souks or down one of these alleyways, hidden from view.

    A tourist who looks as though they’re lost will invite the so-called ‘ helpful guide’ to your side who can show you exactly where you need to go.

    He will escort you, taking the long route to your riad, and then demand a payment from you.

    He may become quite persistent and insult you if you refuse to cough up.

    I was taken off guard seconds away from my riad.

    A young male basically nudged me along the narrow alleyway shoulder to shoulder. He demanded a payment, holding his hand out as I knocked on the door of my riad.

    I told him I wasn’t lost and knew where I was going and that I hadn’t requested his help. He was quite cross with me and began insulting me in Arabic.

    I stood my ground and ignored him until I was let inside my riad.

    This can feel somewhat intimidating, but don’t give in.

    Marrakech has a good police presence, and, in the worst case scenario, threatening them with this often does the trick.

    .Over inflated prices for tourists.

    There is a price for the attractions around the medina for tourists and a price for Moroccan residents.

    This happens in many countries nowadays and you can’t protest much about it.

    On the other hand, prices for street food and things you might wish to purchase in the souks are often much higher than they should be.

    Learn to bargain with the salesperson, try dropping around 25%, and eventually, the pair of you will reach a price you’re both happy with.

    Haggling is an art form, and it takes time to feel confident, but it’s a way of life in Marrakesh and can be quite a rewarding experience when you think you’ve managed to buy something for a fair price.

    If you’re not happy, shop around. There are plenty of places selling the same goods around the souks.

    . Gambling games in Jamaa El Fna.

    During the evening, when the square comes to life, there are a few pockets of entertainment where gambling games take place.

    These are scams that involve the winners working with the person in charge of the game.

    They impersonate curious onlookers and ask to take part. They win and a prize is exchanged.

    These are not genuine participants, and the likelihood of you winning a cash prize is virtually nil.

    . Unofficial tour guides.

    Some tourists mentioned being approached by unofficial tour guides whilst visiting some of the attractions around the medina.

    Males who begin by asking where you’re from, then following you around telling you a brief history of the place.

    After a short while, they ask for a fee for their time.

    If you want a genuine tour guide, check the website of the attraction you’re visiting or Get Your Guide. Booking. Com also offers attractions with a guided tour and transport. Payment is upfront, and guides are very knowledgeable.

    Marrakech is an amazing destination with so much to see and do.

    I have pointed out a few negatives that you should be aware of.

    You may not experience any of these things.

    Locals are very friendly, and tourists are accepted and made to feel very welcome.

    My advice is to make your boundaries clear from the start, get yourself some data with an Orange SIM for negotiating your way around the medina, and learn a few words of Arabic or French to help you say no thank you.

    Like anywhere else in the world, keep your wits about you in crowded places, and stay calm.

    You will have an incredible time in Marrakesh..

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  • WHAT DOES A PERFECT DAY IN MARRAKECH LOOK LIKE?

    For myself, the perfect day in Marrakech begins by waking up early to watch the sunrise from the rooftop of my riad.

    View from the rooftop of Riad Zouhour

    Listening to the birds chirping and the sound of the medina waking up.

    Watching cats prowling along the rooftops and hearing the clatter of plates as staff in the riad prepare for breakfast.

    The first glass of freshly squeezed orange juice hits the spot perfectly.

    I enjoy a breakfast of pancakes with homemade jam and honey, bread, yoghurt, and fresh fruit.

    Traditional riad breakfast.

    After a refreshing shower, I head out into the medina for a nice coffee in a cafe on the main square.

    Sat outside, I observe the vendors setting up for the day. The entertainers get ready to entice the crowds of tourists and the local ladies on their way to the market for fresh spices.

    The medina waking up.

    My next destination is the souks for a browse around before they get too busy.

    I suggest just after 9.00 am. is the perfect time to go.

    Vendors are eager for their first sale of the day, and bargaining is much easier.

    The colourful array of beautiful things on offer is a sight to behold.

    The cats gather for a few morsels off the butcher.

    Cats are well looked after in the medina.

    I check out the wonderful Amazigh jewellery, the argan oil, and the beautiful ceramics and mirrors.

    Amazigh jewellery in the souks.

    I buy one or two keepsakes and then decide it’s time for a snack.

    A colourful outdoor cafe calls out to me, and I choose some delicious pastries with a mint tea.

    It’s magical watching the world of Marrakech go by.

    The motorcycles, the donkeys, all competing for space in the narrow streets.

    Tourists wandering about, looking in awe at the beautiful colours around the medina.

    After recharging my batteries, it’s time for some sightseeing.

    I head towards Madrasa Ben Youssef and get some amazing photos of the stunning architecture.

    The incredible Islamic architecture in the Mederssa Ben Youssef .

    The medina is beginning to get rather busy, so I make my way to the gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque to sit quietly for a while.

    Enjoying the stunning gardens of the Koutoubia Mosque.

    Afterwards, I treat myself to a sugarcane juice from a vendor outside.

    Sugar cane vendor.

    The heat is now quite intense, so I return to the riad for a rest.

    I head upstairs onto the rooftop for a rest from the busy medina and a spot of sunbathing.

    Enjoying the peace and tranquillity in my riad.

    The call to prayer echos across the medina.

    I read a book and order myself a glass of mint tea and a dish of olives.

    Soon, it’s time to get ready for the evening.

    I decide to go to La Pergola rooftop bar for a couple of cocktails.

    It’s a lively atmosphere, and there’s a jazz band playing downstairs in the courtyard of  Le Bistro Arabe.

    I stop and listen for a while before heading towards Jamaa El Fna.

    The energy is electric, food vendors touting for business, dancing, drumming, and crowds of people everywhere.

    The smell of food makes me hungry, so I decide to find a nice place to dine.

    I choose a place overlooking the square and observe the action from above, sat on the rooftop.

    I enjoy a traditional tagine, flavourful and aromatic. I’m tempted by the exotic sounding smoothies on the menu and treat myself to one containing dried fruit.

    I watch the beautiful sunset and everywhere has a golden glow.

    Once dinner is finished, I nip into The Clock, situated in the square to listen to some traditional storytelling.

    After an interesting time immersing myself in the culture of Morrocco, I decide to head back to my riad.

    I pick up a few souvenirs along the way.

    Back at the riad, I sit in the courtyard reflecting on my day.

    The staff in the riad are happy to help me decide where to go the following day.

    We chat about possibilities, and they help me put together the perfect plan for another day sightseeing.

    I have had a perfect day…

    I have experienced a different culture, tasted delicious food, watched a magnificent sunset, chatted with the locals, and navigated the maze of the souks successfully.

    I have made a mental note of some of the things I want to buy to take home with me, and I look forward to haggling for a fair price before the end of my trip.

    I fall asleep, happy and content, ready to do it all again tomorrow..

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  • BAHIA PALACE

    Bahia Palace is a stunning, 19th century palace in Marrakesh.

    It’s definitely a must-see if you’re visiting the city, and it’s quite spectacular.

    The rooms are decorated with stuccos, paintings, and mosaics to capture the essence of Islamic architecture.

    The word Bahia means  ‘brilliance’ in Arabic, reflecting the splendour of Islamic art and architecture.

    It is necessary to book tickets prior to visiting the palace as queues can be extremely long.

    They cost 70 dirhams each, and the palace is open from 8.00am-5.00pm daily.

    The courtyard is stunning, and all the rooms open out onto it.

    It is rather grand and very spacious with a fountain in the centre and intricate tile work typical of Morroccan culture.

    There is also a 2-acre garden surrounding the palace.

    There are orange trees lining the route up to the entrance of the palace.

    When Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, the Bahia palace was used as a royal residence. This was until King Hassan II transferred it to the custody of the Moroccan Ministry of Culture.

    The building then became a cultural icon and tourist attraction.

    Bahia Palace is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakech.

    It is best to arrive as close to opening time as possible to avoid the crowds.

    That way, you can spend time reading about the history of the palace and enjoying the experience.

    I would recommend visiting Bahia Palace.

    It’s gives you a good understanding of Islamic culture and the fine craftsmanship that defines it.

    If you enjoy looking at Islamic architecture, you could also visit Badi Palace in the Kasbah area of the city.

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  • CAFE ARABE

    In the heart of the medina.

    Open air seating inside café Arabe

    Cafe Arabe is a popular destination for people looking for Italian and Morroccan cuisine.

    It is open all day serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    The open-air restaurant has a rooftop overlooking the medina and comfortable seating in the patio area.

    The incredible views of the sunset draw people in to enjoy a cocktail on the rooftop, and it gets booked up very quickly.

    I visited initially for a refreshing smoothie and a break from the intensity of the souks and the heat.

    We were given breadsticks and olives to accompany them at no extra charge.

    A  much needed respite from the heat and a refreshing, healthy smoothie.

    I enjoyed looking out over the rooftops of the medina whilst relaxing.

    There was no pressure to order something to eat, which was nice.

    I decided to book a meal for later in the evening because the vibe was good inside the restaurant and the food looked delicious.

    The view from one side of the restaurant to the other.

    One thing I particularly liked was the decor.

    The exotic green colour leading upstairs to the terrace is absolutely stunning.

    This was my favourite part of the restaurant, I could have sat here happily all afternoon.

    The bathroom is very clean and well maintained.

    The striking green colour on the way up to the terrace is beautiful.

    Returning later for a meal, it was incredibly busy, and the service was slower.

    There were people queuing to be seated and waiters rushing about trying to cope with the demand. 

    We ordered pizzas, which were very tasty.

    They took a long time to arrive, and we ended up having a few beers with olives whilst we waited.

    We would have liked a desert, but we didn’t have time to wait for their arrival, so we decided to try again another day when it’s less busy.

    We tried booking a table for the following evening but it was full.

    I would suggest booking a few days in advance as Cafe Arabe appears to be very popular with tourists in the medina.

    The prices are average considering the proximity to Jamaa El Fna, and the food was fairly decent.

    It was a little bit too busy for me, and not surprisingly, the waiters appeared to be slightly under pressure.

    There were a few discrepancies with my bill, which took ages to rectify. However, it didn’t spoil the overall enjoyment of our dining experience.

    I would certainly come back just for a cold beer and to watch the sunset on the rooftop.

    Cafe Arabe  is open daily from 10.00am-12.00am

    The address is,

    184 Rue Mouassine

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco

    I would recommend booking a table for around 6.00pm this is the best time to come before it gets too busy.

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  • MONRIAD

    A traditional riad close to Jamaa El Fna.

    The colourful rooftop of Monriad.

    The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed in Monriad.

    This is where my love affair with the medina began.

    I had no idea what to expect and was absolutely amazed at the wonderful experience I had staying in a traditional riad for the first time.

    Monriad was so pretty.

    The courtyard was tranquil, and the sound of the trickling water and birds singing was blissful.

    Inside Monriad

    The owner and her staff were friendly and helpful, greeting me with the ultimate respect and offering traditional mint tea with olives on arrival.

    A welcoming glass of mint tea.

    I was given helpful advice about the area surrounding the riad and popular excursions I might wish to book.

    She also suggested that I could eat dinner in the riad with the other guests and recommended places of interest close by.

    The rooftop was glorious, and watching the sunrise up there each morning really was a blessing.

    Sunrise from Monriad rooftop.

    My room was impeccable, with traditional and good quality furniture and a beautiful bathroom with a traditional basin.

    The riad smelt amazing. Cleanliness was a top priority for the staff.

    There was a large, traditional, carved wooden door into the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem.

    I did eat dinner once inside the riad, and the food was quite good. It was popular with other guests who seemed to really enjoy dining inside the riad.

    The breakfast was very good.

    Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street.

    It’s a pleasant, safe area with several cats and kittens who have also made the surrounding streets their home.

    Making friends with the locals.

    Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace, yet it is peaceful and secluded.

    It is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained a family and welcoming feel about it.

    It remains my mission to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh, but I would definitely consider returning to Monriad.

    Monriad can be found at the address below,

    N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, Riad

    Zitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • KABANA ROOFTOP BAR.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.

    They also have a good selection of dishes on the menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar via steps, and from the road, it looks rather unassuming.

    Entrance to Kabana rooftop bar.

    Once inside, it’s tastefully decorated with lanterns hanging everywhere and music playing on a large television screen.

    It’s a very busy venue, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.

    The bar is huge, and you can either sit inside or outside, where most people prefer to hang out.

    Selection of alcoholic beverages at the bar.

    I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.

    Other people had mixed reviews, saying waiting times were long and that it was pricey for food and drinks.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.

    It was always full, and on the occasions we simply visited for cocktails, we couldn’t always be guaranteed a seat on the rooftop for a cocktail.

    However, after waiting for approximately 30 minutes inside the bar area, we eventually got a place.

    There is table service.

    The unisex bathroom is a treat,  beautifully decorated, modern, and traditional.

    Kabana rooftop bar seems to be one of the more popular places for drinks in the medina and lacked authenticity for me.

    The surroundings were nice with plenty of greenery, and the lanterns looked very pretty after dark.

    There is a view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, but it’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    View of Koutoubia Mosque.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe, attracting all age groups.

    It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,

    11.00am-2.00am

    They play DJ sets, and it’s a  vibrant setting with a more relaxed dress code.

    It is not an intimate place for a romantic meal, in my opinion, and I found it difficult to have a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    However, there are plenty of traditional, authentic places in the medina to dine out if you prefer a quieter environment.

    Kabana is a cocktail bar similar to the places in the new town, with the same energy but within walking distance for those people staying in the medina.

    It’s definitely worth a visit.

    The address is,

    Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,

    1 Rue Fatima Zahra,

    40000 Marrakech Morocco.

    A refreshing cocktail inside the Kabana rooftop bar.
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  • PALAIS DAR DONAB

    A beautiful, calm environment serving authentic Morroccon food.

    Courtyard of Palais Dar Donab/image Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is a special treat.

    The scent of orange blossom fills the air, and the sound of birds chirping gives a sense of peace and tranquillity whilst dining here.

    This was one of my favourite places to visit and I absolutely loved it here.

    I visited several times, sometimes for a glass of wine during the afternoon and a welcome break from sightseeing.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is extensive with food to suit most palates.

    They serve a decent selection of excellent wines and beers.

    I was very satisfied with the quality of food and enjoyed each meal I had in this fine restaurant.

    The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I tried in Marrakesh, and the delicious smoothies were all beautifully presented.

    Vegetable tagine with bread and olives.

    Palais Dar Donab is a high-end riad, where guests and visitors alike are welcome to come in and enjoy a quiet break from the busy medina.

    As you relax in the calm, tranquil surroundings, you never feel rushed.

    The gentle sound of the leaves on the trees and the trickling water make dining here a very pleasant experience.

    They are open for lunch aswell as dinner.

    The restaurant is set around a large pool and citrus trees, making it the perfect place for a nice rest.

    Relaxing on the comfortable couches and admiring the intricate craftsmanship inside is a nice way to pass an hour or so.

    I highly recommend trying Palais Dar Donab, not just for the quality of the food and friendly service, but for the peaceful atmosphere.

    You come away feeling recharged and de-stressed.

    You are ready to head back out into Jamaa El Fna and the souks again..

    Enjoying a moment of quiet contemplation.

    Opening hours are,

    Monday-Sunday

    10.00am-10.30pm

    Address is,

    53 Dar el Basha-Bab,

    Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.

    The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit cards.

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