This is a large riad very close to the main square. It has a very pretty courtyard with beautiful plants and a swimming pool.
The colour of the walls are a lovely blue that works really well against the lush green foliage and tiled flooring.
The rooftop is large with plenty of seating and a warm jacuzzi. It’s lit up in the evening and looks incredibly pretty.
Views from the rooftop.
The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the lively sound of everything that is going on until late at night.
I chose a room on the rooftop. It was exceptionally pretty and decorated in a Saffron colour.
Saffron room.
For light sleepers, you may find the early morning call to pray rather loud, and the noise from the square may be a bit of a problem.
The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning.
I would recommend taking ear plugs.
Riad Persephone is not a reasonably priced accommodation, and it is not a luxury riad.
It has a rustic charm, and some areas are a little bit tired and in need of a face-lift.
If you prefer a traditional style of riad, this is what you will get but at a high-end price. Don’t expect a five-star experience. You may be disappointed.
The riad offers the usual activities and has a hammam.
Riad Persephone is in a great location, close to some nice restaurants and shops.
It is vibrant and colourful, with a few cosy little nooks to sit and relax.
Interior of Riad Persephone.
If you’re looking for a traditional riad,there are similar riads that have excellent customer service at a more reasonable price.
At Raid Persephone, you are paying for the close proximity to the Jamma El Fna.
Overall, it is aesthetically pretty and very close to the main square.
If you are looking for a more intimate place with a friendly, homestay vibe, there are better options available.
A brief glimpse into the history of the red city of Marrakech.
The magnificent Koutoubia Mosque.
Marrakech has been inhabited for over 1000 years. The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.
Morocco took its name from Marrakech, the Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.
During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.
They constructed an underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.
They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.
His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.
He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.
It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.
In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.
They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque.
They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.
They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.
They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.
This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.
The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.
In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.
They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne .
Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but they much preferred the city of Fez, and so consequently, Marrakech was about to go into serious decline.
Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.
Because of this move, Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected. The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.
From 1578-1603, the Saadian sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power, restoring the city to its former glory and establishing Marrakech as its capital city.
They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.
Saadian tombs/image Freebird Tracey El Badi Palace/images Freebird Tracey.
They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.
The Saads built Bab Doukkala 1557-1571 mosque and Mouassine mosque 1562-72.
They also built Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.
Madrasa Ben Youssef/images Freebird Tracey.
In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.
The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries. They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.
They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.
They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, developing it’s infrastructure.
It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.
Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.
Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.
The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.
They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.
In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.
Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.
It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.
In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.
It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.
Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.
Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.
As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating. It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..
Gueliz area in Marrakech/images Freebird Tracey.
For further information or advice on planning the perfect itinerary, get in touch using the contact details below..
Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a budget.
Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank.
In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.
It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.
I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.
1.
Book your flight early.
The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.
2.
If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.
3.
Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.
4.
Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.
4.
Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.
5.
There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.
Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate post about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.
Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.
Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.
Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.
6.
Try a public hammam.
I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.
Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.
You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.
7.
Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.
Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.
You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will work it out eventually.
There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.
8.
Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.
9.
Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.
10.
Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.
11.
Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.
Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.
It’s a destination that is accessible for everyone, including those on a tighter budget.
With some careful planning, you can put together an interesting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.
If you need help to organise your trip or advice on places to eat or stay, reach out and leave me an email using the contact details below..
A few helpful tips you may find useful before arriving in Marrakesh.
Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.
In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.
There are 🏧 machines located around the city.
I use the one outside the post office near where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.
The exchange rate is good, and it was always working.
You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.
There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.
It’s advisable to always carry a small amount of cash with you.
It’s useful for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.
Something you may want to consider if you don’t wish to get any cash at the airport is..
Make sure to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.
Most accommodations will do this for you when you book, and it’s prepaid.
You will probably need a SIM card.
I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.
This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived.
Having data gave me reassurance as a solo traveller.
I could use Google maps in the souks, which was helpful in case I got lost.
Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually exceptionally good.
So it’s nice to be nice.
I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.
You can drink the tap water allegedly.
Personally, I didn’t.
I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus it doesn’t taste that good.
There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell water.
Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.
Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.
Image Freebird Tracey.
Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.
The same applies to shopping in the souks.
Aim to arrive at places like Bacha Coffee and Bahia Palace for around 9.30.am.
Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.
However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.
Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.
NB: See my separate post on what to wear when visiting Marrakech.
Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.
There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.
Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.
Some high-end riads and hotels will have alcohol also.
It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.
If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.
The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.
People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.
It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.
Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.
Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.
Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.
The locals will love telling you all about it..
There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a dirhams.
I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.
Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.
Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.
The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.
I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.
NB: See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.
Sounds Of The Souks 