Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: North Africa

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • FIVE THINGS I LOVE AND HATE ABOUT MARRAKECH

    A list of my favourite and challenging things in Marrakech.

    Colourful Babouches

    Marrakech is ‘my happy place’. It’s a city of contrasts, from the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Hivernage in the new part of the city.

    Visitors may find the experience to be an assault on the senses.

    The lively sounds, sights, and smells can be a complete overload on the senses and somewhat overwhelming to the most seasoned traveller.

    However, don’t let that put you off coming to Marrakech.

    You do become accustomed to it, and it’s part of the charm of Marrakech.

    I have made a list of the 5 things that I myself love and hate about this fascinating city to help you get the most out of your visit.

    Here are the 5 things I hate about Marrakech.

    1.

    If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with.

    The monkeys on chains and the snakes (which you are encouraged to have a photo taken with) are difficult to accept.

    Don’t encourage this.

    The monkies have been brought down from the Atlas mountains, and although people need to make a living, they clearly don’t want to be there.

    Then there are the horses, taking tourists through busy traffic and the donkeys pulling carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists.

    The horses seem to be looked after, but the traffic is horrendous, and I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists.

    The donkeys look overworked and neglected.

    It’s the culture of the city, but very different from what I’m used to.

    I avoided eye contact with the  snake charmers and monkeys in the square, and they stopped approaching me eventually.

    There are a lot of stray dogs and cats, but they are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by the owners of the riads.

    They are regularly fed, and the people in Marrakesh are kind and caring as a rule.

    If you are an animal lover, you may find Marrakech a bit of a culture shock to begin with.

    I joined Brooke, a sanctuary, for working animals abroad when I arrived home.

    I can’t change how people earn their money, but I can help to educate them.

    2.

    Queueing at the airport.

    Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, so get used to it.

    Take a snack and keep a drink readily available. You will most likely need it.

    You can pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.

    Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the plane lands and consider choosing a seat near the exit.

    Get off the plane and boot it to passport control as quickly as you can.

    3.

    Marrakech is touristy.

    The narrow alleys of the Souks can be very crowded most of the time.

    Don’t expect to get anywhere quickly because you and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time.

    Marrakech is one of the most popular tourist destinations, and it will certainly feel as though they’re all there at the same time as you.

    Tip: Plan to visit in January or November to avoid the crowds.

    It is still sunny but much cooler than during the summer months.

    There are fewer people around the tourist attractions, so you will get that perfect photo opportunity.

    Tip: Don’t try taking photographs of the local people or vendors. They don’t feel comfortable about it and may even expect a payment from you.

    4.

    The smell of fumes from the motorcycles in the souks.

    Everyone in Marrakech seems to own a motorcycle, and they all appear to be riding them at the same time.

    The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past.

    This can get stuck in the back of your throat, causing you to feel a little bit nauseous occasionally.

    There is little you can do to change this, but I recommend doing your shopping in the souks early in the morning before they get busy.

    Around 9.00 is an ideal time.

    There are a lot of vehicles on the roads, and it can be chaotic at times.

    Pollution is fairly bad, so just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.

    5.

    The street vendors in the main square can be rather persistent.

    During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people.

    This includes the locals and tourists alike, and it gets incredibly busy.

    The food stalls are all in competition with each other, and vendors can follow you persistently with a menu to get your custom.

    Some of them can be very persuasive, even pushing the boundaries of what’s considered to be harassment

    It can be very overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those kinds of situations

    The henna ladies are also demanding your custom.

    It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna on them without your consent.

    Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to make eye contact with any of the vendors.

    Saying “ La Shukran” which means no thank you in Arabic, is a helpful way to discourage unwanted attention.

    It’s important to remember, every one is simply trying to make a living.

    Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people have lost their livelihoods and homes.

    Whilst it’s difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors vying for your custom, it’s worth remembering their own struggle to survive.

    Marrakech is certainly a different way of life from what you may be used to and a culture shock to many first-time visitors.

    So now I’ve told you about a few of the things I find challenging in Marrakech, I would like to tell you about what keeps me going back time and time again…

    A lovely man shows me inside the Hammam/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is definitely my ‘happy place’

    I am absolutely in love with this city.

    Here’s why…

    1.

    The people are wonderful.

    You can expect to encounter the friendliest and most welcoming people you have ever met.

    They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their beautiful city.

    They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages.

    They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa.

    It’s absolutely fascinating, and it’s possible to stay with Amazigh people in the Atlas mountains during your trip.

    The level of service in restaurants is astonishing, and the riad owners go out of their way to make sure that your stay is nothing short of perfect.

    I highly recommend staying in a riad at least once.

    They are traditional Moroccan houses with a central indoor garden or courtyard. The views over the rooftops of the medina are stunning, and listening to the birds singing in the morning is delightful.

    They are a haven of peace and tranquillity after the exhilaration outside.

    NB: I have a separate post about staying in a traditional riad.

    2.

    The vibrant colours and wonderful craftsmanship.

    If, like myself, you are drawn to beautiful colours and intricate designs, you will be in paradise in the Souks.

    You will find an assortment of fine jewellery, inticately designed Berber rugs, wood carvings, and a vast array of other wonderfully crafted products

    You will be blown away by the artisans, creating wonderfully curated pieces of work in front of you, and the displays of various items at a decent price.

    Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye.

    Just be prepared to barter.

    3.

    The food is delicious.

    There are some amazing places to dine in Marrakech, and the food is of an incredibly high standard.

    There are good quality vegetarian restaurants and cafes, and many cater for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.

    The food in Marrakech is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate from all over the world.

    I found delicious Italian restaurants that made the most wonderful pizzas and pasta dishes.

    The signature dish of Marrakech is Tagine.

    Tagine is the name of the clay pot used to cook the dish in

    It’s cooked very slowly, resulting in the most decadent, mouthwatering flavours.

    Choose from meat or vegetable tagine, you won’t be disappointed.

    There are some more unusual options, such as sheep’s head and snails found around the square.

    This seemed to be more popular amongst curious tourists and locals than those people who prefer fine dining.

    Overall, I was very impressed with the amount of variety on offer and the stunning restaurant settings.

    I also recommend visiting Bacha Coffee ( see my separate post)

    There are hundreds of different coffees to choose from and a nice selection of cakes, pastries, and other light snacks.

    You do have to wait for a table, but you get to look around the museum and enjoy the lush garden whilst waiting.

    4.

    The architecture is absolutely stunning.

    There are so many interesting places to visit, and the intricacy of the tile work is absolutely astonishing.

    Islamic craftsmanship with its symmetry and attention to detail is beautiful, and I was spellbound.

    The lush gardens are also breathtaking and a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Souks.

    I recommend visiting these places to get an idea of how exceptional everything truly is,

    . Bahia Palace.

    . Madrasa Ben Youssef.

    . The saadian Tombs.

    . The Koutoubia Mosque.

    . The Secret Garden.

    . Bacha Museum.

    Marrakech is steeped in history, and there is something exciting to see for every visitor.

    5.

    Marrakech is a great starting place for visiting other places

    I took a wonderful trip out to the Agafay desert, and it was absolutely magical.

    I had dinner in the desert watching the sunset it was unforgettable..

    There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa and experience the monkeys.

    You can also take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira for the day.

    If you wish, you can venture into the Sahara desert if you have about 3 days to spare. It’s a very popular destination amongst tourists.

    Tours are very well organised, and the tour guides are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. They go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience.

    Riads or hotels are happy to help you organise your trip, but you can also check other popular online sights for price comparison.

    Ouzoud Waterfall.

    There are many different reasons why I love Marrakech, I have listed only a few.

    Here are a few other things to take into consideration..

    Marrakech is a safe place to visit, especially for solo female travellers.

    Although it is mainly an Islamic city, it is relatively liberal.

    I would always encourage showing a little bit of respect regarding your dress code. Wearing a loose cover around your shoulders when visiting religious sites is advisable.

    Marrakech can reach temperatures of 50° in the summer, which is incredibly hot, so bare that in mind when choosing when to go.

    Riads and hotels have places for you to sunbathe, and it is acceptable to wear shorts and bathing suits there..

    If you’re looking for a place that is a combination of many different things, from the ancient to modernity,

    A place that is diverse and can often feel like an organised chaos, yet  perfectly functional,

    A place that will transport you to the world of 1001 Nights,

    Then Marrakech is for you.

    I would recommend doing your research before visiting. Watch YouTube videos and read travel blogs.

    Arm yourself with plenty of knowledge before you arrive so that you will know what to expect.

    That way, you will have an unforgettable experience and come away with memories of places and people that will stay with you forever.

    Intricately tiled fountain.

    Continue reading for more information about the places mentioned in this post..

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  • THE MAJORELLE GARDENS

    The stunning botanical gardens in Marrakech.

    Lilypads and Koi Carp at Majorelle Garden.

    Inside the beautiful Majorelle Garden, there are over 300 stunning plant species from all over the world.

    Mexican agave, Chinese windmill palms, African date palms, coconut, and banana trees amongst a labyrinth of pathways.

    The incredibly tall bamboo and exotic Cacti species coexist together to create one of the most beautiful gardens in marrakech.

    Two acres of botanical landscape gardens.

    Originally designed by Jean Majorelle in the 1920s.

    After he was forced to abandon his home because of divorce, the fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent took it over with his partner Pierre Berge to save it from hotel development in 1980.

    They restored it and made it their home, bringing the garden back to it’s former glory.

    For many years the Jardin Majorelle has provided me with an endless source of inspiration, and I have often dreamt of its unique colours – Yves Saint Laurent

    There is a memorial to Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge in the garden. 

    Majorelle Garden attracts over 900,000 visitors each year, making it a less than tranquil place to sit and reflect.

    I would have loved to have sat in quiet contemplation amongst the lush green vegetation, admiring the pop of colour from the bougainvillea, but I was never alone for very long.

    The attractive art deco pavilion with its striking colours of blue and yellow is a popular place for visitors to get their photographs taken.

    The colourful pavilion
    The exotic blue and Islamic green tiles.

    There is also a cafe and shop.

    I purchased some postcards of Yves Saint Laurents’ yearly ‘Love’ drawings.

    I didn’t go to the cafe because there were too many people and the queues were really long.

    Yves Saint Laurent early ‘Love’ drawings

    The gardens open daily at 8.00am and close at 6.00pm, and the last entry is at 5.30pm.

    I would suggest getting there before 10.00 am, preferably at opening time if you want a more peaceful experience.

    Luckily, I had prebooked online, so I didn’t have to queue.

    I’m thankful that I did because the queues were really long, and it was a very hot day for standing around without any shade.

    The YSL museum is also part of the visit, along with the Pierre Berge Museum of Berber Arts. It’s worth a look around if you are interested in Berber history. 

    Opening times are from 9.00 am until 5.30 pm with the last entry at 5.00pm.

    You can’t take photographs inside the museum.

    The price varies depending on where you purchase tickets from but you can expect to pay approximately €24 to visit everything.

    There are plenty of nice restaurants outside the gardens, and I decided to get something to eat and drink in one of those. It was much quieter.

    I recommend My Kawa for a nice salad.

    There are a few shops across the road from Majorelle Garden selling souvenirs and a few attractive boutiques.

    Shopping around Majorelle Garden

    Stuff was a bit pricey, but I picked up some nice jasmine oil at a fairly decent price.

    Overall, Majorelle Garden was absolutely beautiful. It is  colourful and lush with several spots to sit and absorb the exotic sights and sounds.

    However, it is incredibly busy with tourists, which detracts from the calm sense of serenity you’d expect to get from such a delightful setting.

    It was worth visiting for the wonderful trees and plants and to get some great photos, but unless you go very early during the quiet season, you won’t get a peaceful, relaxing vibe..

    Majorelle Garden is located to the north west of Marrakech medina.

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • THE MARRAKECHI CATS

    The life of a cat in Marrakech.

    Watching the world go by/image Freebird Tracey.

    One of the things you will notice when you’re in Marrakech is the number of stray cats everywhere.

    I was surprised to see so many, especially around the busy square, and in the souks.

    They seemed to dodge the many motorcycles and hide inconspicuously under the juice stalls.

    There were cats sleeping on rugs and cushion covers in the souks, and lazing about without a care in the world.

    I witnessed strays giving birth to kittens inside alleyways and watched as cats prowled across rooftop perimeters at dawn.

    Five years ago, when I first visited Marrakech, I took pity on the cute little kittens hanging around outside my riad.

    They looked thin and hungry, I wanted to do something to help them..

    Cats inside the souks/image Freebird Tracey.

    I purchased a couple of tins of sardines and carefully wrapped the leftovers from my dinner into napkins.

    I found a couple of cats and strategically placed the food in a safe place for them.

    Stray cats outside the riad/images Freebird Tracey.

    The next minute, there were  so many cats appearing out of nowhere, also demanding to be fed.

    This made me feel very guilty because I’d only managed to afford them a few tiny morsels.

    It was a case of first come, first served..

    I went back to the UK feeling a little sorry for all the homeless cats who alerted passing tourists of their existence with a gentle mewing and extended paw.

    The next time I arrived at marrakech, I saw things from a different perspective.

    I stayed in three separate riads, and each one had a resident cat, who was very well cared for.

    I noticed restaurants leaving food outside their premises and butchers dropping scraps of meat on the floor for the local cat population to eat.

    A cat waiting for scraps of meat/image Freebird Tracey.

    Many of the cats were being looked after, and some were actually thriving on the titbits and bowls of food dotted around the medina.

    Cats sleeping peacefully in the souks/image Freebird Tracey.
    A friendly stray waits for a morsel of food/image, Freebird Tracey.

    There was only one upsetting incident where a young man was sitting with a kitten on his lap, and it was holding a business card in its paws.

    On closer inspection, it isn’t something I ever want to see again, and I don’t feel the need to go into more detail here..

    I’m sure you can imagine what I saw.

    That was the only startling discovery I have made.

    On the whole, the cats appear to be relatively content.

    They don’t exist in the way domesticated cats do in the west, but they’re not being ill treated any more than anywhere else in the world.

    I even saw a man get off his motorcycle in the busy souk and move a little kitten to the safety of an alleyway.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re coming to Marrakech, seeing all the stray cats may shock you initially.

    I was exactly the same, but after closer observation, I came to the conclusion that the situation wasn’t as dire as I first thought.

    There are plenty of little pools of water around the city for the cats to drink from, and some vendors leave glasses of water out for them.

    The crazy traffic and crowds of tourists seem to be the biggest problem, but the cats have learnt how to navigate their way around.

    I’m happy to say that I haven’t seen an injured cat at the side of any of the roads around Marrakech yet.

    There are tourists who are rescuing stray cats around Marrakech and taking them back to European countries.

    They are working with local vets to get injured cats treated and all the necessary vaccinations done before taking them out of the country.

    The cats in Marrakesh have learnt how to survive.

    They only know this life, and people are kind and compassionate towards them on the whole.

    Plus, I’ve never seen a single rat in Marrakesh..

    A family of Stray cats in marrakech/images Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • AN EVENING OF ENTERTAINMENT IN AGAFAY DESERT

    Camels, sunsets, and a fire show that left me speechless.

    Stunning scenery at Agafay desert

    We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.

    The journey took around 45 minutes in total even though we seemed to be driving across the gravelly desert for what seemed like ages.

    There were camels with their young calfs dotted about, looking fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists driving past slowly.

    On arrival, we could hear music playing from our camp a short distance away from where we were parked.

    Our guide led us to tables overlooking the vast expansive desert. The panoramic view was absolutely breathtaking..

    We could see for miles.

    Images of our camp at Agafay desert

    Our camp was really pretty, with colourful seats and rugs scattered everywhere.

    There was a Berber tent for us to shelter in, and we could also eat inside there if we wanted to since it was slightly windy.

    After a hot, sweet mint tea, we all took the optional camel ride..

    All aboard the camels

    It was rather a scary experience because my camel came untied and got a bit frisky with the one in front.

    After he was reattached, we continued a bit further for a short while before turning around and heading back to disembark.

    That was also something of a nerve-wracking experience.

    I wobbled about on my camels back as he dropped down to the ground in the most undignified manner.

    I probably wouldn’t do that part of the trip again, but everyone else seemed to really enjoy it.

    Immediately after we got off the camels, our meal was presented to us.

    It was a three course meal consisting of vegetable soup with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine followed by cakes and fruit for dessert.

    Fresh food cooked beautifully in Agafay desert.

    We ate watching the beautiful golden sun go down. The sky was fiery red.

    It was absolutely stunning.

    I can honestly say it was one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen.

    A spectacular sunset

    We ate our meal, with traditional musicians playing their instruments around the tables.

    It was very entertaining.

    Traditional musicians entertaining visitors.

    As soon as dinner was over, more merriment began..

    The dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires and attempting to mimic the traditional Berber dancing.

    The atmosphere was incredible.

    Everyone was out of their seats, clapping and enjoying themselves.

    The stars came out, and the campfires roared.

    The temperature had cooled down, but we were soon nice and warm again.

    After the lively display of Berber dancing had finished, we all sat down to catch our breath once more.

    The air was full of laughter, and spirits were high.

    Soon, the grand finale was about to begin..

    A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert.

    It was completely dark by now, and the visual effects were totally hypnotising.

    Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display.

    It was the highlight of the whole evening.

    We were completely blown away, watching the flames leaping about against the back drop of the vast dark desert.

    I certainly wasn’t expecting anything quite as fantastic as that!

    The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close.

    It had been a wonderful evening.

    We had tasty food, the entertainment was a lot of fun, the fire display was incredible, and the camel ride was rather… interesting!

    Everyone was able to participate in what turned out to be a very enjoyable time.

    We were taken back to our meeting point near Jamaa El Fna.

    The cost of the excursion was well worth the money, and I would highly recommend it.

    I booked my trip through Get Your Guide.

    I believe there are a few different desert camps.

    Some have better facilities than others, and some include a different itinerary. The cost varies, so do check what activities you are getting before you book.

    Hotels and riads can also organise the trip for you, if you prefer, although you may pay slightly more.

    It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay luxury camp.

    There is a swimming pool and other amenities with a more luxurious touch.

    Check Booking.com or look for reputable online sites for details about staying there.

    There are a few things to consider if you plan to visit Agafay desert camp..

    Take a warm sweater or blanket, the evenings drop cooler, and you may find the wind is a little bit blustery in some camps.

    There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.

    There are vegetarian options available. I had vegetable tagine, and the other people in my group had chicken.

    The guides are excellent at their job.

    I have been several times and they always find us at the end of the evening. No one gets left behind.

    Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert.

    I really enjoyed this and   purchased some argan oil for my skin. It was a decent quality oil and lasted me ages.

    The tour usually finishes around 9.30-10.00.

    I went in March and September and enjoyed it both times.

    Despite it being Ramadan in March, I was impressed how well I was looked after.

    I think I may take a journey to the Sahara desert next.

    Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life..

    Ships of the desert/ image Freebird Tracey
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • MOROCCAN MINT TEA

    Mint tea is practically a ritual in Marrakesh.

    The traditional way of welcoming guests.
    A woman pours tea at an argan cooperative

    After the painstakingly long queues at the airport, you finally arrive in your riad slightly overwhelmed and dishevelled.

    The owner of the riad gives you the warmest welcome with the biggest smile across his face as he guides you into the beautiful courtyard.

    As you sit down on the colourful cushions, listening to the gentle sound of the trickling water in the fountain and smell the scent of the blossom on the trees, slowly you begin to unwind.

    The owner reappears with an ornate teapot and colourful glasses on a tray, accompanied by a dish of fresh olives. He begins pouring the fresh mint tea, holding the teapot higher and higher as he pours.

    You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses without a single drop spilling out.

    The aroma from the fresh mint leaves is wonderful..

    You begin to feel refreshed as the fragrant scent fills the air.

    This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown.

    The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.

    It takes practice to perfect pouring tea from such a height, I have tried and failed miserably.

    After you have drank your tea sweetened with sugar cubes and eaten the delicious fresh olives, the panic of trying to locate the riad and queues at the airport disappear as if by magic…

    A refreshing cup of mint tea

    Mint tea is everywhere in Marrakech.

    It’s a refreshing drink that the locals enjoy as they sit in cafes chatting with their friends.

    The name for mint tea is ‘atay’ in Moroccan darija

    It is known by the locals as  ‘Morroccan Whisky’

    The tea is made using green tea and fresh mint leaves, and it is already sweetened with sugar before serving.

    If you find it a bit too sweet, try it before adding sugar cubes.

    Fresh mint is displayed on market stalls all around the medina, alongside other herbs and spices, and the aromatic aroma tempts the tastebuds.

    You can purchase the little tea glasses in the souks, and they make the perfect gift for taking home with you.

    Make sure to wrap them well as they are quite delicate.

    A traditional Morroccan welcome.

    Sipping mint tea and overlooking the lively square from a rooftop is a very enjoyable experience in Marrakech.

    One you will remember for years to come..

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • OUZOUD WATERFALL

    For a great day out, take a trip to Ouzoud to see the spectacular waterfall.

    The second largest waterfall in Africa, it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.

    I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way.

    The mini bus had air conditioning and was pretty comfortable. We drove for around one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break and a drink.

    There was a small cooperative selling Argan oil, but I didn’t bother going in.

    Soon, we were on our way again, and believe me, the views of the Atlas Mountains were astonishing.

    On arrival, we were introduced to our guide, who spoke several different languages, and we set off walking through the lush vegetation.

    We rambled through the olive groves as the cheeky wild Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

    A monkey hiding in the tree

    The waterfall was visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points to take photographs or rest.

    The waterfalls plunge 110 metres into the canyon below, making it a breathtaking sight.

    We stopped for a freshly squeezed pomegranate juice before continuing our way down to the boats.

    Making pomegranate juice

    A boat ride up to the waterfall is part of the itinerary if you book a tour.

    The boats are colourfully decorated, and we were taken right up against the waterfall.

    It was an amazing experience.

    The feeling of the cool water spraying our faces was a welcome relief from the heat, and we had the opportunity to take plenty of photos up close.

    Rowing up to the waterfall

    We were dropped off on the opposite side and then had quite a steep climb up to the restaurants.

    I was able to get a table overlooking the waterfall, and the view was absolutely stunning.

    I had a simple three course meal consisting of a starter, which was a small salad with fresh bread and olives,  followed by a vegetable tagine and fruit for dessert.

    Views from the restaurant

    The meal was finished off with a glass of Morroccan whisky or mint tea as we know it.

    The meal cost around 150 dirhams and was fairly good value. It was very tasty and filling enough for a light lunch.

    After lunch, we made our way up some more steps, stopping off to feed the monkeys at the top.

    The monkeys of Ouzoud

    Finally, we were reunited with our driver and set off back for Marrakech.

    We arrived back in the early evening, giving me plenty of time to freshen up and go out again for an evening meal.

    Overall, the trip to Ouzoud was well worth the six hours travelling.

    It was absolutely beautiful, and sitting above the waterfall looking down whilst eating lunch was the highlight of the trip for me.

    The monkeys were very amusing, and I had to keep hold of my sunglasses to stop them from stealing them.

    The guide was so helpful and looked after everyone really well. Many morroccans speak five languages, and it’s very impressive.

    I highly recommend going to Ouzoud if you visit Marrakech. It’s a wonderful day trip.

    If you have mobility issues, it may be challenging because there are a lot of steps, and it can be quite a steep climb from the bottom backup.

    There’s a fair amount of walking involved.

    Some people were taken back up on Donkeys.

    Hard-working donkeys

    I booked my trip with Get Your Guide, and it was reasonably priced.

    The lunch was separate, and you paid after the meal.

    Your riad or hotel can also organise day trips for you, but it sometimes works out slightly more expensive.

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT MARRAKECH?

    Marrakech is an all year round destination.

    I’ve put together a few helpful tips to help you decide when you should travel.

    Jamaa El Fna when it’s quiet

    Marrakech has a high desert climate so it is pleasant all year round.

    During the summer months, temperatures can reach a staggering 45°C or higher, which a lot of visitors find unbearably hot.

    The Winter months can be moderately warm and sunny, feeling chillier in the evenings.

    I suggest the best time to go is during the spring, from March till May or in autumn, from September till November.

    March sees warm, sunny weather, and you can dine on the rooftops in the evening. However, I would recommend taking a lightweight jacket to throw on if it feels a bit chilly.

    It gets warmer as the month progresses.

    March is the wettest month experiencing 12mm of rain over a day, so it is worth bearing this in mind also.

    June is the driest month with 1mm of rainfall over one day but temperatures in June and July do tend to soar.

    This might make excursions and activities more uncomfortable.

    If you prefer going when there are less tourists, I would suggest January to February.

    The climate is sunny, with average highs of 19°C and lows of 6°C during the evening.

    This would be the ideal time to visit if you’re put off by crowds and long queues.

    Another thing to consider is that Ramadan takes place between February and April, so some stores and restaurants may be closed.

    I choose to visit in late March and late September.

    The Jacaranda trees along the main roads in Gueliz look really beautiful, and the air is really fragrant at this time of year.

    Gueliz in September

    The last time I went during March, it was quite hot, and I actually got sunburnt.

    It was Ramadan, but it didn’t have a negative effect on my trip. Most places were still open as usual, and the service was excellent.

    The tours and excursions still went ahead, and I had a good shopping experience.

    In the souks

    September was very humid.

    I found it more challenging to walk around the palaces and stand in long queues.

    The humidity was rather draining, and I found between 3.00pm and 7.00pm particularly warm and stuffy.

    Marrakech is an all year round destination, so if you do decide to visit during the summer months, I have a few suggestions to help you cope with the heat..

    Plan to visit tourist attractions in the morning as soon as they open.

    If you pre book, you will avoid waiting in long queues in the heat, and there will be fewer people around.

    Pace yourself.

    Alternate between sightseeing and finding places in the shade to have a long cool drink and avoid too much sun exposure. There are plenty of beautiful spots with banana trees and beautiful tall palms to relax beneath.

    Wear cotton or linen clothing.

    Natural fibres are breathable and perfect for wearing in hot weather. Choose loose clothing that covers your arms and shoulders. They allow the air to circulate and help to evaporate sweat, keeping you cooler.

    Stay hydrated.

    Carry bottled water at all times to keep yourself from dehydrating.There are plenty of little kiosks dotted about selling reasonably priced water. Check the seals before purchasing for peace of mind.

    Plan to do more during the evening.

    Some of the tours begin later in the day, and trips to Agafay desert begin before sunset. The square comes alive in the evening, and most of the souks are still trading until quite late.

    Wear high factor sunblock and keep your head covered.

    The sun can be pretty fierce, and it’s easy to burn when you’re up on the rooftops, even in March.

    Visit the water slides of Oasiria or bathe in the pools around the city.

    Take advantage of the air conditioning available and consider taking an afternoon nap.

    Don’t attempt to visit the Sahara unless it’s in the cooler months.

    It’s important to remember that Marrakech is worth visiting all year round. However, it’s a personal choice, and you have to decide whether you can handle certain weather conditions or not.

    If you follow these few simple rules, you should have an enjoyable visit whatever time of year you decide to travel.

    It’s about planning your trip wisely.

    Consider what it is you want from your experience.

    Are you put off by crowds of tourists all crammed into the souks at the same time?

    Can you handle the extreme heat, or are you happy to pack some clothing for cooler temperatures in January?

    Whatever time you decide to go, I can tell you that the sun always shines in Marrakech, and the locals are always smiling..

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • STAYING IN A TRADITIONAL RIAD

    The best way to immerse yourself in the culture of Marrakech.

    Library inside a riad

    No-one should come to Marrakech and miss out on the wonderful experience of staying in a riad.

    If you truly want a taste of Moroccan life, spending time in a riad with traditional zellige tiles and the sound of gurgling water from the fountain in the central courtyard will give you just that.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riads are the homes once lived in by the well-to-do of Marrakech. They are built around a central courtyard and have various citrus trees and foliage in the middle, reaching up through the open rooftop.

    The roof top can be reached by climbing the tiled steps, where you will be greeted by colourful seating areas to escape from the heat and admire the views of the medina below.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooms are traditionally decorated in Moroccan lamps and Berber fabrics, including cushions and bedding with the most exquisite patterns and colours.

    I prefer to stay in the mid- range priced riads because they still maintain their original appearance, and it’s like being immersed into a tale from 1001 nights.

    The higher priced riads are also very beautiful but tend to lose some of their authenticity for me.

    Many riads have been renovated by Westerners to appeal to the needs of tourists. They are modern and have televisions and bidets in the rooms.

    My choice of riad is a family owned property, one that still has it’s old world charm and feels as though I’m staying with a Moroccan family.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Some of the riads I have stayed in have a slightly rustic quality. They cook delicious home cooked food and offer a Hammam service.

    Waking up to the sounds of birds singing in the trees, and the gentle flowing of water from the fountain is such a wonderful start to the day.

    The early morning sunshine reflecting off the beautifully tiled floors, puts you in a happy mood for the day.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Most riads provide their guests with breakfast, which is often sweeter than we are used to in the west.

    Some riads cook omelettes, and there are always fresh orange juice and homemade yoghurts and jams served with traditional bread.

    The msemen pancakes served with honey and amlou are my absolute favourite.

    Many riads have a resident tortoise

    I love sunbathing on the rooftop, listening to the call to prayer from the Koutoubia mosque and the sounds of the gnawa musicians in the square.

    In the evening, I like to watch the sunset as the Jamaa El Fnaa comes alive with thousands of visitors.

    You can hear vendors calling out to beckon them into their food stalls, the aroma of the food cooking catches your breathe and the merry throng of the street performers entertaining the masses can be heard.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Back in the courtyard, you feel as if you are in an oasis. The calm, peaceful environment is a far cry from what is happening outside the big heavy wooden door of the riad.

    The sound of Moroccan music playing quietly in the background, adding to the  spirit of your surroundings, creating an authentic experience.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    When I stay in a riad, the people working there can’t do enough to ensure I have a brilliant time. They are kind and helpful, and nothing is too much trouble. They are always smiling and happy to chat with their guests about Marrakech and it’s history.

    They suggest places where you can eat and can arrange excursions for their guests.

    Many of the larger riads have swimming pools. They are a welcome retreat after the exhausting heat of the hot African sun.

    I like to spend a few days having what I call a ‘riad experience’ just relaxing by the pool amongst the flora and fauna before heading off to do activities.

    Whichever type of riad you choose to stay in, you won’t be disappointed.

    It’s one of the most delightful experiences you can have whilst visiting Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I can’t wait to return..

    Ask for recommendations.

    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • JOIN ME ON A FASCINATING JOURNEY AROUND MARRAKECH

    An introduction to the red city of Marrakech in North Africa.

    If Africa is a peacock, Morocco is its tail

    Welcome to my blog featuring everything you need to know about Marrakech.

    I include my own personal stories, experiences, and adventures, giving an authentic insight into the red city of Marrakech.

    My name is Freebird Tracey, and I’ve been a regular visitor to Marrakech for many years.

    As a solo female traveller, I have always felt safe travelling around Marrakech. The friendly locals treat me with respect wherever I go, always helpful and always with a smile.

    I believe I have found my happy place in the sunshine amongst the fragrance of orange blossom, the vibrant colours, and the magical sounds of Jamaa El Fna.

    Marrakech is a diverse and magical city, steeped in history. 

    From its beautiful Islamic architecture to the culinary delights and fine craftsmanship on display, there is something to tempt the senses on every corner.

    I never get tired of exploring this alluring, magnetising corner of our planet.

    There is always something new to see, and it’s full of little surprises.

    Marrakech is an assault on the senses..

    Allow me to take you on a fascinating journey to North Africa and show you how to make the most of your time in Marrakech.

    I will share interesting articles and suggest the best places to eat, including vegetarian and vegan options.

    I will tell you where to find cool bars that serve alcohol with live music.

    If you’re interested in activities, excursions, or day trips, I will share some of my own personal experiences with you.

    I will give you truthful  opinions, honest reviews, and provide helpful suggestions to get the most out of your visit.

    I share tips on how to stay safe and what to do to make sure you have the best experience whilst visiting Marrakech.

    This is a tell-all blog at your fingertips..

    So, buckle up and join me on a mind-blowing trip of a lifetime.

    Let me introduce you to the sights, sounds, and tastes of the red city. 

    All beautifully entwined with each other,creating what can only be described as a little piece of heaven here on earth..

    (more…)