The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: North Africa

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • A Day Trip To Essaouira.

    Visit a fascinating city on the Atlantic coast.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is the perfect starting point for visiting other Moroccan destinations. One of the popular day trips from Marrakech is the beautiful city of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. The journey takes approximately 3 hours with a 20-minute break for refreshments midway through.

    Essaouira is a delightful city, steeped in history. It is full of eclectic, quirky little shops, and the atmosphere is very bohemian. There are street musicians, local artists, and artisans plying their trade all around the picturesque old medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The beach is huge and a great place for a spot of sunbathing if the wind allows. You will most likely notice kite surfers because Essaouira is popular with the surfing community. The wind can be pretty wild, so it isn’t known as a beach destination, but on calm days, the beach attracts lots of local families and gets quite busy.

    The temperature in Essaouira is cooler than it is in Marrakech. However, even on the windiest of days, you can not underestimate the power of the Moroccan sun. In the old medina, it can still feel very warm. Be mindful of this and apply sunscreen to stay safe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The fort is exciting and offers incredible views over the Atlantic Ocean. Cannons look out across the dramatic blue sea, and tourists gather to take photos. In the distance, you can see the island of Mogador, once home to a notorious prison known as the Alcatraz of Morocco. The fort was also one of the locations where Game Of Thrones was filmed.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The port is one of the main attractions of Essaouira. The beautiful iconic blue fishing boats featured on every postcard of Essaouira are a sight to behold. Freshly caught fish are on display, including everything from sardines to baby sharks. The tourists queue to sample sea urchins and fresh oysters. It is possible to buy fish at the port and take it to a nearby cafe to be barbecued. There is also a fish market in the old medina that will barbecue fish for you. I have heard that prices here are better than the cafes next to the port.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Lovely little cafes adorn the streets of the old medina, perfect for a spot of people watching. Pumpkin Cafe is very popular with its pink hues and delicious pastries. Three Little Birds and Soul Cafe are vibey and serve great coffee.

    There are plenty of great restaurants for lunch, and prices are more reasonable than Marrakech or Agadir. I recommend Mandala Society and The Loft, which has interesting decor and excellent food. Love Caravan is very exotic, and Salut Maroc does a very creative salad. It’s one of the best places to watch the sunset. Many of the restaurants play live music, and gnawa musicians can be heard all around the walls of the medina. After all, Essaouira is the spiritual capital and cultural home to gnawa music.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Moulay Hassan Square is a gathering place for the locals to sit and drink mint tea and coffee. It is a vibrant area and houses one of the main stages during the annual Gnawa Festival in June. Sitting in the sun, listening to the many street entertainers is a nice way to relax and experience the cities culture.

    Cats wander around freely as if they have the right of way, and you can expect to see hundreds of them wherever you go in Essaouira. The locals look after them well, and it’s not uncommon to see cats sitting on the laps of the shop owners. Food, water, and shelter are strategically placed around the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Essaouira is a fascinating place. Ideally, you would need at least a few days to appreciate it in its full entirety. There is plenty to do, and you need a couple of days to enjoy some of the attractions Essaouira has to offer.

    The Jimi Hendrix cafe in Diabat is worth a visit for fans. Sidi Kouki 25 km away is a very chilled surfing spot with a long white beach. It’s a 30-minute ride by grand or private taxi, longer if you decide to take the bus.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is the opportunity to ride an Arabian horse across the beach. The horses are very well looked after, and the stables are spotlessly clean. This can be booked in advance through Get Your Guide or by visiting the stables in Diabat independentently, which I did. After visiting the Jimi Hendrix cafe, I simply wandered down to the stables and got to ride across the beach on my own with my guide. It was a memorable experience on a gentle horse called Andaluse, perfect for beginners.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    When visiting Essaouira, knowing a little bit of French or Darija helps because English is considered a foreign language, and you will hear much more spoken French than in Marrakech. However, the locals in Essaouira are friendly and welcoming and will go out of their way to help you.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The pace of life in Essaouira is much slower than Marrakech despite the growing influx of tourism and the popularity of this wonderful destination. Shops open slightly later and close earlier. The feeling is very laid-back.

    Essaouira is ideal for solo travellers and families with children alike. The long promenade is kept beautifully clean and comes to life at dusk, lined with street vendors selling corn, ice cream, and sugar cane juice. Locals play football on the beach, and families and friends sit together watching the sunset.

    Incidentally, Essaouira has one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever witnessed. The best places to watch it are from the ramparts or Salut Maroc and Taros. Both of these places serve alcoholic beverages.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Whilst it’s true that Essaouira is a very windy city, it doesn’t detract from the enjoyment of visiting, even between the months of June and August when the climate is perfect for surfing. The wind picks up during these months. However, if you carry a light jacket or sweater, you will be comfortable near the beach and ramparts where the wind is felt the most.

    Essaouira is a very pretty city. The white buildings, with their blue shutters influenced by the Portuguese, are a complete contrast from the red city of Marrakech. Some visitors have claimed that it feels more like being in a European city than Morocco. The Amazigh culture is still very present in Essaouira despite its whitewashed buildings and laid-back charm.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I would recommend a visit to Essaouira as part of your itinerary when you’re visiting Marrakech. You can get a good feel of the city in a day. It may encourage you to return in order to spend a few more days exploring everything this great destination has to offer.

    If you are travelling to Essaouira by yourself, I recommend taking the CTM or Supratours coach adjacent to the train station in Marrakech. Booking online guarantees you a seat, and there is a small charge of around 5 dirhams for your luggage. Backpacks can be taken on board free of charge. The coaches have air conditioning, and mine had reclining seats. The journey was very comfortable.

    If you book as part of a group, including a guide, you may stop off and visit an argan cooperative during the journey. You may also stop to photograph the goats sitting in the argan trees. The journey may take slightly longer if you factor this in. On average, you get to spend approximately 4 hours sightseeing. Essaouira is a relatively small city, so you will have plenty of time to shop, have lunch, walk along the beach, and visit the port.

    Just a gentle reminder, keep a few dirhams handy in case you need to use the bathroom during the rest stop. There is often an attendant present who will expect around 2 dirhams for the privilege of toilet tissue and the maintenance of the bathroom. It’s also a good idea to carry hand sanitiser.

    Essaouira is sunny all year round, so it can be an enjoyable experience at any time of year. However, during June, when the annual Gnawa Festival takes place, it can be incredibly busy. At least 500,000 visitors descend on the city, which puts a strain on its infrastructure. The festival lasts 3 days. If you’re put off by huge crowds, I would choose a different time to visit. However, the energy around the city is electric during the festival, and it’s an explosion of sound and colour. Most visitors choose Essaouira for its contrast to the heady, over stimulation of Marrakech, so take that into consideration before planning a visit.

    Whichever time you choose to come, your heart will be captured by Essaouira.

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  • Ouzoud Waterfall.

    A day trip to North Africa’s second largest waterfall.  

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ouzoud Falls is the collective name for several waterfalls in the province of Azilal.

    The waterfall is the second largest in Africa, and it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.

    I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way. The mini bus had air conditioning and comfortable seating.

    We drove for approximately one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break. There was a small women’s cooperative selling Argan oil for people who were interested.

    Soon, we were on our way again, and the views of the Atlas Mountains were simply breathtaking. It was a really scenic drive, helping the time pass quickly.

    When we arrived at Ouzoud, we were introduced to our guide and immediately set off walking. We rambled through the olive groves, and the cheeky Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

    The waterfall is visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points. It plunges 110 metres into the canyon below, and the red sandstone cliffs are a picturesque contrast against the lush green vegetation.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The hike around the waterfall is moderately strenuous, and their are occasional places to purchase fruit juice and take a rest. It was hot,and I was grateful for the chance to stop and recuperate for a while.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    A boat ride is part of the itinerary if you book a tour. The boats are vibrantly decorated and take to the water beneath the falls for a really close-up shot. It was an amazing experience. The feeling of the cool water spraying my face was a welcome relief from the heat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Once the boat drops you off on the opposite side, it’s quite a steep climb up to get to the restaurants. I was lucky enough to get a table that overlooked the waterfall, and the view was incredible.

    I ate a three course meal that included a small salad with bread and olives, followed by a tagine and fruit for dessert. It was pleasant looking down on the boats and seeing people having fun in the water whilst eating my lunch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The meal cost around 150 dirhams. It was nothing spectacular, just a simple lunch in the most gorgeous of settings, but the portion was adequate.

    After lunch, I walked further up a steep incline,where a lot more monkeys were gathered waiting for tourists to feed them. I fed a few of them with some food given to me by our guide.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The final part of the walk took me past a few souvenir stalls and a shop selling drinks and ice cream. Eventually, I made it back to the car park where the journey began.

    The group was reunited with the driver, and then it was time to set off back to Marrakech. We stopped again for a toilet break midway through the journey, and it was early evening when I arrived back at the main square.

    In my opinion, the trip to Ouzoud was definitely worth the six hours of travelling.

    The highlight for me was sitting above the waterfall  eating my lunch and looking at the spectacular view. The monkeys were also very amusing.

    There is a fair amount of walking in the heat, and some of it is steep, but I was able to take my time, and the guide was really patient and kind. The walk was worth every moment to see the waterfall from all its vantage points.

    Some people in the group who were struggling went up on Donkeys, so that’s an option if you have limited mobility.

    I booked my trip with Get Your Guide and found it good value for money for such a great day out. It included the journey in an air-conditioned vehicle, the tour, and the boat ride. The lunch was separate. Your accommodation can also organise a trip to Ouzoud for you.

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  • Riad Persephone.

    A riad overlooking Jemaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Persephone is a large riad located close to Jamaa El Fna. It has a cobalt blue courtyard with lush green plants and a large swimming pool. The colour of the walls is similar to the colour of Le Jardin Marjorelle. It looks beautiful against the foliage and zellige tiles.

    There is a large rooftop with plenty of seating areas and a warm jacuzzi for guests to use. It looks pretty in the evening with all the lamps lit. The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the sounds of everything happening there until late at night.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    My room was on the rooftop. It was decorated in a saffron colour with decorative mirrors and a small private courtyard. The stained glass windows are a feature in riad Persephone. The boho decor is flattering.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For some, the close proximity to the main square may be perfect. However, if you’re a light sleeper, you may find the early morning call to pray loud. The noise from the square may be problematic late at night. The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning. I would recommend taking ear plugs, especially if you have a room on the rooftop terrace.

    Riad Persephone has a rustic charm and has maintained its character. It also has a sister riad further away in the medina called Riad Roxanne.

    Riad Persephone is popular due to its strategic location and the view of Jamaa El Fnaa. It is close to plenty of restaurants, including Le Salama, L’Mdina, and Le Marrakchi. The staff at the riad can  organise activities, such as quad biking and a visit to Agafay desert. There is also a hammam with a massage service.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    If you’re looking for a riad with attractive surroundings close to all the action, Riad Persephone is perfect. On the other hand, if you prefer a quiet, relaxing atmosphere on the rooftop, this riad may not be the best choice. The constant hustle and bustle overrides the peaceful serenity.

    Overall, Riad Persephone is aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. The pool is nice, and the warm jacuzzi is popular with guests. I enjoyed the breakfast it was a typical Moroccan breakfast and very substantial. The location is good and easy to find.

    It is a large riad with a lot of steps up to the rooftop terrace, so it may not be ideal  for people with mobility issues.

    The address for Riad Persephone is 17 Derb Zaari. Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • LA Maison Des Oliviers.

    A laid-back resort in Agdal.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I needed a place outside the medina to simply unwind.I had heard about La Maison Des Oliviers and decided to spend a few days at the House of Olives.

    The grounds of the resort are beautiful and well maintained. I was surrounded by olive trees, citrus trees, and large palms. It felt very exotic. The structure of the building was like a mediaeval castle with its cob walls and lush gardens.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a heated swimming pool that is immaculately clean and a poolside bar serving food and alcohol.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is set over 3 hectares and has 10 standard rooms, 10 deluxe rooms, 17 senior suites, and 3 ambassador suites. There is a shop selling souvenirs on the premises and a spa. There are also table tennis courts

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed in one of the standard rooms. It was large and comfortable, with all the amenities I needed for my stay. It was lovely relaxing by the pool in the delightful gardens. I spent several days doing nothing except sunbathing.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a restaurant serving breakfast and dinner. Breakfast is a buffet, and there is a large variety of choices. There is an outdoor seating area at the main restaurant perfect for pre dinner drinks or a night cap.

    The area is quite remote, but  a shuttle can take guests into the centre of Marrakech. It’s a shared taxi that you need to book at least an hour in advance.

    The surroundings outside the accommodation are run down, and the area is undeveloped, I wouldn’t walk around during the evening by myself. However, I did feel safe visiting a small local supermarket during the daytime.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is an ideal place for relaxation. I would recommend staying here after a few days in the busy medina. It is a welcome break from the hectic pace and a peaceful retreat where you can catch a few sun rays.

    Although I enjoyed my time here. I did miss the lively medina. The staff were friendly and helpful, but they are simply doing a job. I missed the personal touches I get staying in a riad. However,it’s a contrast to the busy touristic side of Marrakech, and I was grateful for the peace and quiet. Occasionally, it’s nice  not to do anything, and this was the reason I chose La Maison Des Oliviers.

    La Maison Des Oliviers is located near the Agdal area of Marrakech. The address is KM 6, Route de l’Ourika, Tassoultante 40000  Marrakech Morocco.

    It is also possible to get a ‘Day Pass’ to come and use the facilities. Check the website if you’re interested. La Maison Des Oliviers is also a popular wedding venue. The attractive gardens are photogenic.

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  • Riad Hikaya.

    A riad in the Kasbah district.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya was purchased by an Englishman who spent 15 years restoring it. It is a gorgeous riad situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech. The work that has gone into reviving it is evident as soon as you walk through the door. Everything is handmade. The skilled craftsmanship used to create each piece of the furniture and hand paint the doors is exceptional. Some of  the rooms even have large copper bathtubs.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Hikaya is not budget accommodation. However, considering the aesthetics and the professionalism of the staff, it’s worth paying slightly more to stay here.

    The breakfasts are really good and I ate dinner here one evening. I had a three course meal, and it was freshly cooked. I sat at the edge of the pool to eat, admiring the large Moroccan lampshade hanging in the centre.

    There is a rooftop terrace with places to sit in the shade and sunbeds to soak up some hot, morroccan sun. It is a lovely space to relax with colourful couches and little pomegranate trees in pots. There are views of the snowcapped Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is an authentic side of Marrakech. There are fewer tourists, and the locals are friendly. There are plenty of good restaurants, including The Clock, located across the road from Riad Hikaya. There are a number of shops and popular attractions such as El Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs. It is an easy 20-minute walk to the main square from the Kasbah.

    If you want to disconnect from the busy touristic areas, staying this side of the medina is the perfect retreat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I stayed at Riad Hikaya in the winter. Inside,the rooms were warm and cosy, and I felt comfortable throughout my stay. It was quiet and a change from the hectic rhythm of the medina.

    I enjoyed my winter break at Riad Hikaya and would definitely return again. The staff were kind and always available if I required anything. The riad is visually appealing, and it’s obvious that it’s been a labour of love.

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  • Riad Zouhour.

    A riad with a pretty rooftop terrace.

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    Riad Zouhour is a captivating riad in a strategic position in the medina. The blue and white zellige tiles, intricately carved wooden doors, and ornate window frames showcase the character of this traditional riad. Simply put, it is stunning.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop terrace is a peaceful oasis with flowers, citrus trees, and tropical plants. Creatively designed seating areas invite you to sit and admire the tranquil surroundings. There is also a small pool for cooling off in, kept spotlessly clean. You can tell this riad is a labour of love. The attention to detail is a credit to the owner, and the  rooftop garden is nothing short of paradise.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooms in Riad Zouhour are spacious. They are light and airy, with sunlight streaming through the windows. Large private bathrooms contain fragrant products, adding a personal touch. The whole riad feels very luxurious.

    The food is also very good. I ate dinner here and it was excellent. The riad provides a typical Moroccan breakfast that is substantial enough to fill you until lunchtime.

    The staff are attentive and kind, going out of their way to make you feel welcome. The atmosphere was relaxed and professional, and I felt very comfortable here.

    Although Riad Zouhour exudes luxury, it’s affordable. It’s in a good location close to all the action, yet inside the walls, it is peaceful, and still. It’s easy to see why Riad Zouhour is popular.

    The address for Riad Zouhour is 33 Derb Snane, Medina 40000 Marrakech Morocco. Check-in time is 00:00 until 23.30 hours, and Check-out time is 5.00 until 00:00. 

    Like most of the riads in the medina, they are happy to organise excursions for you.

    This is a riad I would highly recommend. It has been beautifully restored whilst keeping all of its original charm. I enjoyed my stay here, and I wouldn’t hesitate to come back. It is a peaceful oasis in the busy medina. A haven of tranquillity where guests are made to feel valued. Riad Zouhour is one of those places you just don’t want to leave.

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  • Riyadh Al Moussika

    Home to Pepe Nero Italian Restaurant.

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    I was fortunate to stay at Riyadh Al Moussika once home to the Pasha of Marrakech. The two impressive courtyards were a haven of peace and tranquillity each morning. The sound of birdsong and the gentle trickle of water from the fountains was a lovely way to begin each day.

    In one courtyard, there is a large pool with elegant seating around both sides. In the second, there are traditional zellige tiled fountains and water features. The interior decor resembles a calm oasis and includes an extravagant dining room with tasteful Moroccan and European furnishings.

    The riad is a popular Italian restaurant called Pepe Nero. When the restaurant opens at lunchtime, music is playing, but during the afternoon, between 4 and 6, it becomes peaceful again.

    The evenings can be livelier, so earplugs are a must if you retire to bed early. The tempo of the music is louder and can be heard in the guests’ rooms. I didn’t find this an issue because once the restaurant closes at 11.30, it soon becomes quiet again.

    Riyadh Al Moussika has been beautifully renovated. The rooms are spacious, and the blue suite is grand enough for royalty. I stayed in the single room. It was adequate and included all the amenities I required for a comfortable stay. Although rooms in riads are quite dark to keep them cool, this is part of their authenticity.

    Riyadh Al Moussika is aesthetically pleasing. There are exotic plants, including palms and pretty bougainvillaea, draping over the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop terrace is separated into private areas for guests. There are sun loungers and foliage in large clay pots. It’s a large space with views of the Atlas Mountains in the distance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The afternoons in Riyadh Al Moussika were very relaxing. I appreciated listening to the sound of the fountain trickling into the clear pool surrounded by lush green foliage. Gentle background music added to the feeling of stillness, and it was such a calm setting.

    The location of Riyadh Al Moussika is excellent. It is in a quiet area with a small carpark close by. There are several restaurants and cafes  a short walk away, including Mandala Society. There is a hammam with a great rooftop restaurant called Les Bains Kenaria nearby.

    The staff at the riad were very professional.They were helpful and polite at all times. Despite this being a busy restaurant, they were always available for their guests. Complimentary water and mint tea were offered to guests each day, which added a nice personal touch.

    The breakfast was a hearty start to each morning. It was a typically sweet Moroccan breakfast with the option of having an omelette. Msemen pancakes, cheese, fruit, yoghurt, fresh orange juice, and coffee were served in the restaurant courtyard.

    I really enjoyed my stay in Riyadh Al Moussika and would highly recommend it. The music is something to bear in mind if you would like to retire to bed early. However, for a solo traveller, it reduces that feeling of isolation you sometimes struggle with. Taking a pair of earplugs helped.

    The excellent service and glamorous environment made up for any minor inconvenience caused by the bustling restaurant vibe.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riyadh Al Moussika can be located at 62 Derb Boutouil, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • Riad Bohemian Jungle.

    A riad conjuring up Tales of Arabian Nights.

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    The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech. Straight out of a tale from Arabian Nights, the Bohemian Jungle exudes charm and authenticity.

    The interior is captivating, with several nooks and crannies to sit taking in its splendour. The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in. The green zellige tiles and exotic plants are attractive focal points of the riad.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is decadent.  There are pretty pink flowers, which drape over the wall into the courtyard below. Plants and moroccan lamps are carefully situated amongst colourful seating areas. There’s a balinese bed and a cerise boudoir area, where staff play traditional tuareg music for their guests.

    There are areas to sit in the shade and relax with a book. Perfect for when the hot African sun reaches its  highest temperature in the day. The riad lives up to its name. It certainly is a jungle.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The riad is managed by young men from the Sahara desert, and they enjoy sharing their fascinating Amazigh culture with guests.

    The breakfasts vary each day. They consist of traditional pancakes, fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.

    When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits.You are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.This is helpful for finding your way back to the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The fragrance inside the riad is intoxicating. Orange blossom and cinnamon oil float on the air throughout the day. In the evening, the lamps glow, and traditional music plays quietly in the background. I never wanted to go out. I was happy sitting in the riad, experiencing the captivating surroundings.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly, and it’s easy to see why.

    If you are looking for TVs or a modern contemporary style of accommodation, you won’t find it here. This is an eclectic, boho environment that lives up to its name. Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture. Lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.

    It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and the Spice square. The vegetable market is near the Bohemian Jungle, and there are plenty of popular restaurants in the vicinity.

    The address is, Derb al Maada Hay azbezte 39 Medina, Medina 40030 Marrakech, Morrocco.

    Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can be arranged by this riad. They are good value for money and well organised.

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  • Riad Blue Berber

    An authentic 17th-century riad.

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    Riad Blue Berber is an authentic riad in a strategic location. It is close to the Bahia Palace, Dardar rooftop bar, La Pegola, and Tinsmiths Square. It is situated on a quieter side of the medina central to many popular sightseeing spots.

    Riad Blue Berber has a very pretty courtyard. The floor is the original floor dating back to the 17th century. There is an intimate feel about this riad because it’s smaller. The rooms are quite dark inside, but that adds to its authenticity.

    The owner, Habi, is a very knowledgeable man who enjoys chatting with his guests. He is very hospitable, and the riad has a homely family feel about it.

    Mona, the cook doesn’t speak English, but she prepares a hearty breakfast for the guests each morning. She manages to interact well despite the language barrier.

    The rooftop is large with different tiers and great views over the medina. It was being modernised during my stay.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Blue Berber is a cosy riad that has character and charm. Waking up to the sound of birds chirping in the courtyard was a lovely way to begin each day.

    There are four rooms. Three of the rooms have air conditioning, and the other two have fans and heaters. The riad is clean and humble, offering an authentic experience of riad life.

    I liked this side of the medina. I always felt safe walking to and from the riad even at night time. There’s always plenty going on. It’s perfect for solo female travellers. It is located 200 metres from the lively Jamaa El Fna, yet inside, it is peaceful and calm.

    The address is 5 Derb Jdid, Riad Zitoun Lakdim, kadim، 40040 Morocco.

    The riad can organise tours and cooking classes are available to teach you how to create a traditional tagine.

    I had a pleasant time at Riad Blue Berber. It’s a traditional riad, and I liked the location. The staff were happy to look after my luggage after I had checked out. It’s small details like this that make staying somewhere extra special.

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  • Riad Laila.

    A luxurious riad on the outskirts of the medina.

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    Riad Laila has a beautiful courtyard garden full of exotic plants, mandarin trees, and hibiscus. It is larger than most of the other courtyards and has a large swimming pool for guests to enjoy. The rooms are tastefully furnished with modern contemporary pieces and generous sized bathrooms. Riad Laila has recently been renovated and refurbished, and I would consider it a luxury riad.

    The rooftop is spacious. It is a great spot for sunbathing or relaxing with a mint tea looking at the views over the medina. There is a Bedoin tent and plenty of seating areas.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is a perfect riad for people looking for a spa like  experience in Marrakech. Staff wear uniforms and  keep a keen eye on the guests. The place is run with an air of precision.

    Everything is spotlessly clean. It’s a place where you can spend ages relaxing by the pool in peace reading a book.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is at the most northern side of the medina. It is close to the bus station and a 25-minute walk from the centre. The Jardin Majorelle is a short walk away.

    Raid Laila was a lovely break from the busy medina for a couple of days. However, I did miss the charm and intimacy of a traditional family run riad. I found the environment slightly clinical. It depends on what kind of experience you prefer. If it’s a restorative setting in beautiful surroundings, Riad Laila is ideal. The garden is exceptional. The regimented presence of staff did take away from the relaxing atmosphere for me.

    Food is served at the riad, but vegetarian options appeared to be limited at the time I stayed there. This may improve in time.

    If you’re looking for a break from the sensory overload of the medina, Riad Laila is a good choice. It is aesthetically pleasing and has one of the largest gardens boasting 840m2. They have a resident tortoise called Laila who loves you to feed her hibiscus flowers.

    The address for Riad Laila is 104 Diour Jdad Zaouia Abbassia Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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