The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: North Africa

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • Being Vegetarian or Vegan In Marrakech.

    Does Marrakech cater for all dietary preferences?

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is a meat eaters’ paradise, but there are plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans.

    I was concerned that I’d spend my time in Marrakesh living off the delicious olives on sale in the souks because I am vegetarian. I am happy to tell you that that wasn’t the case, and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to find good food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are a number of restaurants popping up that serve only vegetarian and vegan food. The choice of food on the menus in a lot of restaurants and cafes is steadily improving as tourism grows and more people are switching to a plant based diet.

    One restaurant I highly recommend is La Famille. Run solely by women and in a pleasant outdoor setting. The food here is incredibly good. The menu is small and creative and changed daily to keep it exciting. The tables are large wooden tables and seat a number of people around them in the pretty and peaceful garden. It’s an outdoor restaurant with a small shop and very popular.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of choices for non meat eaters on the menu in most restaurants and cafes around the medina. Sumptuous vegetable tagine, vegetable couscous, salads, and pasta dishes, to name just a few of the tasty options available for vegetarians and vegans.

    I never have a problem sourcing tasty, beautifully prepared meals whilst staying in Marrakesh. The smaller cafes tucked away in the souks are slightly less accommodating, and you might not find vegetarian food being cooked by street food vendors.

    In the more luxurious restaurants, there is a good variety of dishes on offer for vegetarians and vegans, and menus are imaginative and exciting.

    For a snack whilst you are sightseeing, there is an abundance of freshly cooked seasonal vegetables and fruit for sale around the medina, which is mouth wateringly delicious. Lightly spiced olives and delicious pastries also make a wonderful alternative treat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Harissa soup is also a huge favourite of mine. It’s available everywhere and deliciously tasty served with traditional Morroccan bread. There is also a popular soup made with white beans, which is a breakfast staple in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Some restaurants serve a healthy meat free brunch. I particularly enjoyed the avocado toast at La Ferme. It was beautifully presented, and a healthy, filling midday meal

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The clock cafe in the kasbah does a really nice vegetable pastilla and has a few other interesting choices on the menu for vegetarians and vegans.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Please don’t put off visiting Marrakech because you consider it to be a meat eaters paradise only. By doing a little bit of research beforehand, you will find a good selection of fine restaurants and cafes serving great food that doesn’t use animal products.  Both vegetable tagine and vegetable couscous are widely available if you want traditional Morroccan food.

    A few restaurants that cater to vegetarians and vegans that I can recommend are;

    . La Famille

    . La Ferme

    . Enjoy your meal

      Veggie Lovers.

    . Mandala Society.

    . Broc The Kasbah.

    Palais Donab also does a lovely vegetable tagine, and it’s a beautiful, tranquil place to have lunch or dinner.

    I suggest writing down the names and addresses of restaurants you wish to try before travelling, including opening times. This will save wandering around in the heat, looking for places suitable for your dietary preferences. I always do this, and I also read the reviews before deciding. It helps me to plan my itinerary, and it’s helpful knowing the opening times and the addresses. A lot of restaurants also have food on the menu that is gluten-free. Most menus are displayed outside restaurants so that you can check. You could also look online before you travel.

    Lastly, if you’re staying in an apartment, there are plenty of amazing markets in the medina selling a great variety of fresh vegetables and fruit to prepare your own meals with.

    Bon appetite.

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  • What Is The Food Like In Marrakech?

    A look at popular food choices in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The famous red city is a culinary delight for foodies. The streets are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit. There are herbs and spices galore in colourful barrels everywhere you look. The fragrance of street food fills the air, tempting your tastebuds. Restaurants with  decadent surroundings call out to you to sample their cuisine.

    But where do you start and what should you order?

    Like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of a country you’re visiting. I enjoy sampling the signature dishes of places I visit and eating the food that the locals do. It’s the best way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.

    Moroccan people are known for their hospitality and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family. If you get the chance to go do it. It’s a way to understand the people and their culture. Plus, there’s nothing better than traditional food homecooked by a local family.

    So,with an overwhelming choice of food to choose from, you may need a little help deciding what to try. I’ve put together a few ideas for you to choose from.

    The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.Tagine is the name of the clay pot that the dish is cooked in. It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre. Chicken or lamb is the most popular meat used. Dates, olives, preserved lemon, and spices such as the Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout are added to give the tagine flavour. Everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine, and they differ in each restaurant. However, they all use the same principle of layering the vegetables into a pyramid around the meat.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables. It is eaten religiously on Fridays and a staple dish in Morocco and other North African countries. Couscous is finely textured and often served with harissa sauce to make the consistency less dry.

    In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails. Tourists are encouraged by  street food vendors to try a dish of snails, and those who do have said that they quite enjoyed the experience. Apparently, the broth that they’re cooked in tastes of aniseed, and although an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible. Many tourists actually liked them.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.
    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us. It’s a regular sight on display in the main square during the evening. Locals sit at stalls alongside tourists next to the  charcoaled heads eating spit roasted mutton and sausages. The open-air restaurants are very popular, and the aroma of food can be smelt all around the main square.

    In Marrakech, each meal is served with traditional bread. It is freshly baked every morning in communal ovens called Ferrans. Khobz is a traditional round crusty flatbread and used in place of cutlery to scoop up the food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Tangia is also a popular dish. It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam. Traditionally, the tangia is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day. It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread. The meat is incredibly tender and simply falls off the bone. There is a row of street vendors dedicated to selling tangias in the medina. This is very popular with locals and tourists alike. The area gets very busy with people queueing for a vessel of succulent lamb or beef.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of street food vendors tucked away in the souks. They sell really good quality food and it’s cheap. Ideal for travellers on a tighter budget. Taking a street food tour is a great way to try all the best places serving traditional local food. There are several tours available during the daytime or evening. Tourists get the chance to sample authentic Moroccan cuisine with a registered guide. Delicacies like the spleen sandwich and Tripe are something that you may be introduced to during a street food tour. Remember to go with an empty stomach because there’s so much food to get through.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech also caters to people who are vegetarians and vegans. There is a good choice of food, including salad,vegetable tagine, pastilla, and couscous. Most dishes can be adapted for people who don’t eat meat. There are a few excellent vegetarian restaurants in the medina, and more are opening as tourism grows.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Pigeon is also eaten in Marrakech and traditionally used for the filling in Pastilla. There are camel burgers available at The Clock restaurant in the kasbah if you want to try something different.

    Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food. I recommend Pepe Nero or Limoni Italian Restaurant.

    Olives are served with most beverages as a complimentary side dish in Marrakech. They are either lightly spiced or plain. They are really fresh when you buy them straight off the vendors in the souks. Don’t hesitate to try some. They are delicious.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are really good. Baclava is a traditional sweet and popular with the tourists. Moroccans have a sweet tooth as you will gather from the breakfasts high in carbohydrates and cakes. The choice of deserts on the menu in restaurants is really creative. There’s no point watching your waistline in Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Dates are a hugely popular snack in Marrakech, and medjool dates known as ‘The King of Dates’ are widely available around the medina. Make sure to try some. You won’t be disappointed with the soft caramaly taste.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fresh fruit is sold everywhere in Marrakesh. It’s used in tantalising sweet dishes and refreshing smoothies that make your mouth water. Sugarcane and pomegranate juice is a favourite of mine and only costs a few dirhams.

    Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food. With so much to choose from, you would need months to eat your way through it all. Not only is there a great variety, but it’s beautifully presented too. Imagine sitting in a tranquil setting next to exotic plants, with the sound of birds and trickling fountains. Or on a rooftop terrace at dusk watching the sunset as you tuck into a plate of delicious food. Those are memorable experiences of eating in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Be open to getting out of your comfort zone and give some of the traditional Moroccan dishes a go. You may be pleasantly surprised. If you’re not adventurous, many restaurants serve European, Mediterranean cuisine. The choice is endless.

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  • Herboristerie Reda

    A small apothecary in the souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is nothing better than taking the fragrance of Marrakech home with you. For me, it’s a way to relive  the happy experiences of my time there.

    You can find plenty of places in the souks that sell argan oil, perfumes, shampoos, and body wash. The heady fragrance of orange blossom, oud, and jasmine oil entices you to buy something. It’s a constant reminder of your fragrant riad. However, not all argan oil  for sale in the souks will be genuine. There are inferior quality products sold at high prices, so you need to be mindful.

    Argan oil cooperatives are the best places for buying genuine products. However, if you don’t get an opportunity to visit them, where should you go?

    Herboristerie Reda stocks everything, including Argan oil, and the quality of their products is very good. I have purchased many of their perfumed body oils. The products are genuine and reasonably priced.

    The address is 48.Derb Sidi, Boulfdail.Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I spent a lot of time testing the oils to see which ones I liked, and I didn’t feel pressured into buying anything. The woman in the shop was called Hanane, and she was helpful and kind. She speaks several languages, and it was a lovely human experience meeting her.

    They stock a large selection of products, including soap, fragrant body creams, perfumed oils, and products for use in a hammam. You can also purchase herbs and spices, including Saffron. They have herbal teas and medicinal ointments. It’s a little apothecary in the souks.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The shop front is used to advertise an annual Gourd Festival. It’s decorated in striking colours with gourds and garlands hanging in the entrance.

    I have bought oils from other retailers in the souks, but it’s not long before the fragrance wears off. The oils from Herboristerie Reda last ages on the  skin and smell amazing.

    Herboristerie Reda is open from 9.00 am until 10.00pm every day.

    This will be my go-to shop for fragrant gardenia and other essential oils from now on. It’s a treasure trove of magic potions in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Dar Bouchaib.

    A fixed price store in the Kasbah.

    Are you fed up with haggling each time you want to buy something? If so, there is a fixed price store in the Kasbah district where you won’t have to bargain. Here, you will find everything that’s for sale in the souks at a fixed price.

    On the ground floor, there are ceramics, jewellery, clothing, footwear, bags, souvenirs, and much more.

    The perfumed oils are of a high quality, and you can create your own signature fragrance by blending several together.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    On the first floor, there is handmade furniture, mirrors, vases, and other large items for the home. There is a huge selection of Berber rugs for sale, which can be shipped worldwide. The store is huge. It’s worth visiting just to see the craftsmanship that’s gone into creating everything on the upper floor.

    The staff at Dar Bouchaib are helpful. You can wander around the shop without any pressure to buy.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is an easy 15-minute walk from the main square. There are plenty of shops and  restaurants along the way. There are popular sightseeing  places in this part of the city, including Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.

    Dar Bouchaib can be found on Rue de La Kasbah Marrakech 40000. It’s open daily from 9.00 am until 8.30 pm. Bank holiday hours may differ, so check first before arriving.

    Although a big part of visiting Marrakech is shopping in the souks, sometimes haggling can be stressful. Not knowing how much you should be paying gives vendors the upper hand. Tourists often get overcharged. In contrast, Dar Bouchaib is a relaxed shopping experience with everything under one roof. The prices are fixed and reflect what you should be paying for each item.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Dar Bouchaib is a few steps away from the popular restaurant Krepchy. Cafe Zeitoune is also close by and a great place for lunch. It’s pedestrianised around the mosque, and there are plenty of benches.

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  • The Kasbah.

    Visiting an authentic district of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is located in the southern part of Marrakech and is considered the jewel of the old city.

    The Kasbah is a quieter part of Marrakech, with fewer tourists than the medina. Staying in the Kasbah, you feel totally immersed in the culture of Marrakech as you rub shoulders with the friendly locals. There are plenty of shops, including a large fixed price store called Dar Bouchaib, selling everything you will find in the souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is home to popular tourist attractions like the Saadian tombs and El Badi Palace.There are a number of good restaurants in the area, many with rooftop terraces to catch the sunset.

    Zeitoune Cafe is a lovely restaurant for a spot of lunch. It’s in a strategic position and overlooks the mosque, making it a nice place to take a break from sightseeing in the area. The Kasbah mosque is the second largest mosque in Marrakech and is also referred to as ‘The Golden Apple Mosque’ it has a minaret reaching 80 metres tall. I enjoyed sitting on colourful cushions outside Zeitoune Cafe with the view of the mosque in front of me. It was a nice way to spend some time in the sunshine people watching.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The kasbah is a 20-minute leisurely walk from the main square with plenty to see along the way. There are plenty of shops selling all kinds of stuff, including spices, jewellery, clothing and perfumes.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    In the kasbah, there is a  range of budget and high-end accommodation. I stayed at Riad Hikaya and had a really positive experience. The luxurious five-star hotel La Sultana is also in the Kasbah.

    The Kasbah is a quieter neighbourhood than the medina. Parts of it are pedestrianised, and there is less traffic, making it feel less chaotic than the medina. The locals go about their daily business of buying bread, selling clothes,and feeding stray cats. It’s a typical scene of everyday life inside the ochre walls.

    The Kasbah has a slower pace of life, and it’s a lot less stressful than the touristy side of Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is the historical citadel in Marrakesh with fortified walls. The narrow, winding alleyways make it an exciting place to visit, with their signature red colour glowing in different hues at certain times of the day.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The famous Bab Agnaou gate provides entry into the Kasbah, and out of the 19 gates around the medina, it’s one of the most ornate. The King’s Palace is also situated inside the walls of the fortress. Therefore, the whole area is heavily guarded, making it a safe place for visiting with children.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Kasbah is home to the Clock restaurant with its legendary camel burgers and storytelling evenings. Also, the Kasbah Cafe is a popular place for lunch and dinner. Krepchy does a fantastic breakfast, and the prices are very reasonable. I highly recommend the waffles. There are a few good coffee shops selling decent coffee, such as the popular Nos Nos.

    To return from the medina, consider taking a tuk-tuk if the weather is hot. It’s quite an adventure as you rattle along the bumpy streets back into the Kasbah.

    Tinsmiths Square and the Jewish quarter known as the Mellah are not far from the Kasbah, and there are plenty of things to see and great places to eat in both areas.

    Taxis can pick you up from your accommodation but they may struggle in some of the narrower streets. There is also a taxi rank close to the roundabout near Tinsmiths Square.

    Spending an hour or two in this historical area of Marrakech will add value to your visit. The locals are very friendly, and it’s a pleasure getting the opportunity to sit and chat with them.

    I would recommend staying in the kasbah if you prefer a quieter, more authentic experience of Marrakech. It’s further out from the madness of the busy souks and a more relaxed environment.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Bahia Palace.

    One of the most visited attractions in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Bahia Palace is a 19th-century palace in Marrakesh. It’s definitely a must-see if you’re visiting the city, as it is quite spectacular.

    The word Bahia means  ‘brilliance’ in Arabic, a reflection of the splendour of Islamic architecture and art. The rooms inside the Bahia Palace are beautifully decorated with sculpted stucco, zellige tiles, paintings, and mosaics to capture the essence and skill of divine craftsmanship. The intricately carved cedar wood ceilings are a testimony to the beauty and precision involved in the creation of such a spectacular palace.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The huge courtyard is one of the focal points of Bahia Palace. It is rather grand and very spacious with a fountain in the centre and intricate zellige tile work typical of Morroccan design and culture. All the doors open out into it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are approximately 150 rooms organised around multiple internal courtyards and riad gardens. The palace covers around two hectares.

    In 1956, when Morocco gained independence from the French, the palace became the residence of King Hassan II until it was later transferred to the Moroccan Ministry of Culture to serve as a cultural icon and tourist attraction. Bahia Palace has now become one of the most significant landmarks and tourist destinations in Marrakech, attracting 1000s of visitors.

    If you’re planning a visit, it is advisable to book tickets as queues can be extremely long. They cost 70 dirhams at the time of writing, and the palace is open between 8.00am-5.00pm daily.

    The gardens surrounding the palace are also impressive, with orange trees lining the route to the entrance. It’s worth having a wander around them after seeing the interior.

    I would suggest arriving as close to opening time as you possibly can to avoid the crowds. That way, you can spend time reading about the history of the palace before it becomes too busy, and you also have a better chance to capture a few photos of the internal chambers and exquisitely decorated rooms.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If you’re visiting marrakech, the Bahia Palace will give you a good understanding of both Moroccan and Islamic culture and the architecture, art and craftsmanship that defines it.

    If you enjoy looking at Islamic architecture, you should also visit Badi Palace and the Saadian tombs in the Kasbah area of the city.

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  • The Saadian Tombs.

    A testimony to the opulence of the Saadian dynasty.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the most popular tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.

    The Saadian tombs have become a historical landmark dating back as far as the late sixteenth century. Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour and his family.

    The  mixture of Spanish and Moorish architecture is really impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and Italian Carrara marble.The main mausoleum is quite remarkable, with beautifully decorated ceilings and columns and there are usually very long queues waiting to see it. The Saadian tombs are very decadent with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles, showcasing the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.

    I recommend arriving early around opening time to avoid waiting too long to see the main mausoleum. Tourists can wait for over an hour in the heat, so make sure you have a bottle of water handy just in case.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs were hidden for centuries. They were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.

    Housing over 100 tombs with beautiful zellige tiles and marble columns, this royal necropolis was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour to honour his ancestors. The chamber of 12 columns is where the tombs of Ahmed al- Mansour and his successors are laid to rest. In the gardens lie the tombs of soldiers and servants. There is a smaller  tranquil chamber, which is called the Chamber of Three Niches.

    The Saadian Tombs are an example of Moroccos’ rich history and culture. They are in close proximity to El Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both are worth a visit if your you’re interested in Islamic art and architecture.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs are in the Kasbah next to the mosque, and the opening times are 9.00 am until 5.00pm daily. The price of entry at the time of writing is 100 dirhams.

    The Kasbah is located to the south of the medina.

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  • Jamaa El Fna At Sunset.

    Experience the heartbeat of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you think that Jamaa El Fna  is a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set. Gone are the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, to be replaced by open-air restaurants, gnawa musicians, gambling, and exotic dancers.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The scene is organised chaos and a complete sensory overload. The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted. The drumming becomes intense as the main square takes on the image of a huge fair ground.

    Thousands of people from all over the city and beyond come together to meet each other, alongside tourists all vying for space to watch the spectacle unfold. The exciting atmosphere is electric and pulsates with energy.

    Street vendors looking for potential customers pursue you with menus as you try to navigate your way through the crowds. They hop in front of you, and you have to dodge them like you are taking part in some sort of assault course.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    The aroma from camel heads cooking on a spit drifts across the square, and fresh snails being plucked from their shells becomes a familiar sight.

    Although the scene is very intense, it is also magnetic and exciting. I love the energy in Jamaa El Fna after dusk, but some people find it too overwhelming. They prefer to sit at the edge of the square, away from the crowds, and watch everything from a safe distance with a drink.

    Jamaa El Fnaa at dusk is unlike anything else you may have experienced. There is so much to see.There are games being played, and a few little scams are taking place to try and trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around the cafe de France, chatting with each other over coffee. Families wander around the stalls that are brightly lit up and open until late. Young men enjoy kicking a football against the walls of the medina, and couples sit on benches chatting to each other in the warm evening air.

    Sugarcane and fruit juice are sold by lively vendors, and the banter is all done in high spirits. Tourists dine on rooftop terraces as the Koutoubia mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes electrifying.The square is transformed into a social hub where anything is possible and everything appears to take place at the same time. It’s an incredible experience.

    Dazzling bright lights from the open air food vendors and Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets give off a warm, inviting glow. The heady fragrance from incense cones competes with the smell of food cooking, each wafting through the air on a gentle breeze.

    Henna ladies sit waiting for unsuspecting tourists and then grab their arms in an attempt to sell them a tattoo. They tell you,”It’s a gift,” but don’t you dare to walk away without paying once they’ve applied it.

    You can hear the sound of the gnawa musicians playing dressed in their brightly coloured clothing, belly dancers perform, and acrobats show off their skills to the gathering crowd of curious onlookers, you can’t escape the mayhem. After all, the famous Jamaa El Fnaa is the heartbeat of the city, and it draws you in because it’s a special place and there’s nowhere else quite like it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Jamaa El Fna magnetises you. The chaos that surrounds you is an assault on the senses. It’s an experience, an education, and a head-first dive into the rich culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although there’s so much going on after dusk, please be mindful when stopping to take photos. Someone in the thick of the action will be eagle eyed enough to catch you. They are continuously on the lookout for tourists who have stopped to watch. They will pounce upon you from out of nowhere, with a cap in their hand expecting a donation.

    After sunset, it’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play in Jamaa El Fna, and they are determined to have a good time. It’s a sight to behold, lively, energetic, colourful, aromatic, and incredibly loud. Be sure to visit this remarkable place and witness what it is that makes Marrakech so magical. It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid any obvious scams.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Maison Culturelle Du Tapis.

    Learn about the history of Berber carpet weaving.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Maison Culturelle du Tapis is tucked away in the souks and a place you must see if you’re in Marrakech. It’s a museum containing a remarkable exhibition of Berber carpets and a journey through the ancestral history of the tribes who created them. Beautiful carpets are draped along the walls of this boutique museum, each one made by different tribes and eras in Moroccan history.

    Situated deep within the medina at 16-18 Derb Deffa Ourbaa, it’s slightly hidden, but the vendors in the souk will point you in the right direction if you struggle to find it.

    The museum is a fascinating walk through the history of traditional carpet weaving, and some of them on display are generations old. They have been beautifully preserved, and each one is a testimony to Moroccos weaving heritage.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Every room of this tastefully restored 17th century riad invites you to look at each different region’s identity, from the Atlas Mountains to Rabat. You get to learn the meanings of Berber symbols and the specific colours each tribe used when weaving their carpets. Each carpet is unique and tells its own story.

    There are descriptions to help you appreciate the work that goes into creating each piece, including a detailed history about the Berber tribes who produced them. There’s also an interesting video showing you the process of creating the carpets and the history of the Berber women who spend months skillfully weaving each piece.

    On the first floor, you will find a workshop where you can have a go at making a small tapestry to take away with you. This is a two hour activity and ideal for families.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the treasures on display in the museum is the Rabat carpet, a symbol of royal elegance renowned for its rich decoration and finery.

    The museum also houses a collection of exquisite rare 20th-century carpets and modern contemporary pieces.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A visit to this delightful place was a nice break for me from the densely packed medina, and I would thoroughly recommend stopping by to have a look around it.

    There’s a small shop inside the museum selling rugs, cushion covers, and bags with   pieces of woven tapestry stitched into the centre. They are the perfect souvenir or gift to take home with you.

    After exploring the museum, you can relax on the pretty rooftop terrace, where you’ll find a nice cafe to have a light snack, homemade pastries, or a drink. The views across the medina from up here are incredible.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The museum is open from 10.00 am until 6.00pm and there’s a small entrance fee. It’s definitely worth every dirham to delve into the rich, cultural ancestry of the Amazigh and learn about their exceptional carpet weaving skills. Highly recommended.

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  • Agafay Desert.

    Take a trip to a vast stony desert near Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.We were a small group of 8 people, and the journey took around 45 minutes.

    Agafay desert is a gravelly desert, composing of stones, rocks, and dunes where some vegetation is able to survive. As we approached our camp, camels sitting with their calfs looked fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists descending on their territory.

    As we disembarked, the sound of traditional gnawa music was playing in the distance. Our guide led us to tables that overlooked the vast expanse of desert. The panoramic view laid out before us was absolutely breathtaking.We could see for miles.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Our camp was pretty, with colourful cushions and rugs scattered about and rattan lamps hanging overhead. There was a large Berber tent where you could shelter from the breeze.We  could eat inside the tent or at tables in the open air.

    After settling in with a mint tea, some of the group took a short camel ride. This activity was optional.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Next came a three course meal, including vegetable soup served with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine, and fruit for dessert. The food was tasty, and the fresh air had given everyone a good appetite.

    We ate our dinner watching the golden sun go down. The skies were a fiery red. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I had ever seen.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A group of Morroccan gnawa musicians played around the tables, entertaining us as we finished off our meals. It was a lot of fun, and everyone was in high spirits.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    As soon as dinner was over, the merriment commenced. Dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires attempting Berber dancing. The atmosphere was lively and upbeat. Everyone was  clapping along and enjoying themselves. The stars came out in the clear sky as the campfires roared. By now, the temperature had started to drop, but we felt warm and cosy by the big open fires.

    When the lively display of Berber dancing was over, we all sat down to catch our breath. The camp was full of laughter, and everyone was having a good time.

    The grand finale was next. A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert. Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display taking place on a crater in front of us. By now, it was completely dark, and the effects were hypnotising. Watching the flames leap about against the backdrop of the vast dark desert was the highlight of the evening.

    The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close. It had been an exciting evening. We were escorted back to our vehicles and driven back to Marrakech.

    The excursion to Agafay desert was great value for money, and I would highly recommend it. I booked my trip through Get Your Guide, but your accommodation will also be able to organise the trip for you. There are a few different desert camps to choose from, and some have better facilities than others, so check the reviews before booking. Quad biking is also available if you prefer that instead of a camel ride

    It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay Luxury Camp. The camp offers a swimming pool and luxury accommodation with showers and bathtubs. Details can be found on Booking.com or by  looking online.

    Here are a few things that you may wish to consider if you plan to visit Agafay Desert.

    Take a warm sweater or blanket because evenings drop cooler.

    There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.

    Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert. If you’re interested in purchasing anything, take some cash with you in case they don’t accept card payments.

    The evening tour usually finishes between 9.30-10.00. There may be earlier tours during the winter months.

    Agafay desert was an entertaining way to spend an evening. Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life, I am eager to visit the Sahara.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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