After the painstakingly long queues at Marrakech airport, you finally arrive at your riad. At this point, you’re feeling overwhelmed and dishevelled. The manager gives you the warmest welcome and guides you into the tranquil courtyard. You sit down on colourful cushions, listening to the sound of trickling water. Suddenly, you’re presented with an ornate silver tray containing a teapot and colourful glasses. This is accompanied by a dish of olives and homemade biscuits. You begin to unwind.
The tea is poured, holding the teapot higher and higher. You watch with amazement as the tea finds its way perfectly into the little glasses. Not a drop is spilt. This is a traditional Morroccan greeting for visitors. The higher up the teapot is held, the more respect the guest is being shown. The tea also becomes aerated, making it cooler to drink.
The fragrant aroma of fresh mint fills the air around you. Soon, you are feeling relaxed and becoming accustomed to your new surroundings.
Video by Freebird Tracey.
Once you have finished your tea, the panic of trying to locate the riad disappears as if by magic. The image of dragging your luggage through dark, narrow alleyways starts to become a distant memory.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Mint tea is served everywhere in Marrakech. It’s a customary drink that locals enjoy whilst chatting with their friends in cafes. Drinking mint tea is a central part of Moroccan social life. It is known as atay in Moroccan darija. It is also called ‘Morroccan Whisky’ by the locals in Morocco.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The tea is made using gunpowder green tea and spearmint leaves. It is sweetened with sugar cubes before serving. Moroccans like their tea sweet, so if you don’t, ask to have the sugar cubes separately.
Moroccan mint tea has many health benefits. It improves digestion, helps to improve oral health, is a natural decongestant, and provides antioxidants that support good mental well-being, skincare, and alertness.
Fresh mint is sold all around the medina, and the familiar smell is noticeable when you walk past. It’s an aroma you will come across a lot in Marrakech.
Sipping mint tea overlooking the square from a rooftop terrace is a nice way to experience Marrakech. There is also a tea house that I highly recommend called 1112 Moroccan Tea House. It’s situated in a beautifully restored riad, and it’s the first Moroccan tea house in Marrakech.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Drinking atay is a big part of Moroccan culture. You will be offered tea in spice shops, in Berber carpet shops, and friendly locals will want to share it with you. It’s practically a ritual in Marrakech.
You can purchase the pretty glasses in the souks, along with ornate silver teapots. They make perfect gifts for taking home with you.
Marrakech is my happy place. It’s a city of contrasts. From the ancient walls of the medina to the plush bars and clubs of Gueliz and Hivernage. Visitors may find Marrakech to be an assault on the senses. The sights, sounds, and smells of Jamaa El Fna can be overly stimulating for the most seasoned of travellers. However, it’s part of the charm of the city, and it’s just as exciting as it is chaotic.
Although I love visiting Marrakech, there are things that frustrate me. I have to give a realistic, balanced opinion. Like anywhere else in the world, things can not be all perfect. Therefore, I have decided to share some of the things that I have struggled with versus the things I adore about the city of Marrakech. I have made a list of 5 things that I love and 5 things I don’t like.
Here are the 5 things I don’t like about Marrakech.
1.
If you’re an animal lover, you might find the hustlers in the main square too much to cope with. The monkeys on chains and the snake charmers encouraging you to have your photo taken with them were hard for me to see. The monkeys have been brought down from their natural habitat in the Atlas mountains. I accept that local people need to make a living, but they clearly don’t look happy chained up all day. They are dressed in tutus and nappies, and it just feels wrong to me.
There are horse-drawn carriages taking tourists through the chaotic traffic into the newer part of the city. The donkeys pulling heavey laden carts through narrow alleyways full of motorbikes and tourists. I’ve witnessed accidents where they’ve been clipped by passing motorists. The donkeys look as though they’re overworked and appear neglected.
I appreciate it’s the culture of Marrakech, and I have no right to criticise anyone’s way of life or impose my own beliefs onto another culture. However, I did struggle with it the first time I visited Marrakech. I avoided eye contact with the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, and eventually, they stopped approaching me. I would feel happier if a separate lane was implemented just for the horse-drawn carriages to use. For now, they are taken through some of the worst traffic I’ve ever seen, and I found that difficult to watch.
There are also a lot of stray dogs and cats in Marrakech. They are looked after by the locals, and many of the cats have been rehomed by owners of the riads. They are regularly fed, and the local people try their best to look after them. However, I found it difficult to see the sheer volume of strays to begin with.
Finally, there are chickens in tiny cages and caged tortoises, If you are an animal lover like me, you may find all the above a bit shocking.
2.
Queueing at the airport.
Be prepared to stand in line for up to 2 hours on arrival. The process is slow, and all you can do is accept it. Take a snack and keep a drink with you. It is possible to pay extra for the fast- track service, but it may cost you around €230 for the first person and €190 for the second person.
Tip: Try to visit the bathroom before the aircraft lands and consider choosing a seat near the entrance and exit. This way, you can get to the front of the queue quickly.
3.
Marrakech is touristy.
The narrow alleyways in the Souks can be very crowded. You and hundreds of other tourists will be browsing around the shops at the same time. Marrakech is one of the most visited destinations, and it may feel as though everyone is there at the same time as you.
Tip: Plan to visit in January or November when it’s quieter. There are fewer people around the main attractions, so you will get the perfect photo opportunity. Queues will be shorter also. Consider sightseeing and shopping early in the morning. It’s less crowded, and bargaining is easier.
4.
The smell of fumes in the souks.
The souks are full of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, giving off clouds of fumes as they hurtle past. The fumes can get stuck in the back of your throat, making you feel nauseous. Unfortunately, there is little you can do to change this. There are a lot of vehicles on the main roads around Marrakech, and they can be chaotic at times. Pollution can be bad in Marrakech. Just be aware of this if you struggle with asthma or other breathing issues.
5.
The vendors in the main square can be persistent.
During the evening, the main square opens up becoming a meeting place for thousands of people. The food stalls are all in competition with each other. Vendors will try to shove a menu in your face to get your custom. Some of them can be very persuasive, occasionally pushing the boundaries. It can become overwhelming, and it’s often difficult to remain calm in those situations
The henna ladies also vy for your custom. It’s not uncommon for them to take hold of your hand and begin applying henna, telling you that it’s a gift. After they’ve finished, they’ll ask for money from you, and it can get quite heated if you refuse.
Tip: If you’re not interested, try not to show interest by avoiding eye contact. Politely saying “La Shukran” meaning no thank you in darija, is a good way to discourage unwanted harassment.
Marrakech was badly affected by the devastating earthquake in 2023, and many people lost their livelihoods and homes. Whilst it was sometimes difficult to cope with the constant barage of vendors. I had to remind myself that their struggle to survive is very real.
Marrakech is certainly a culture shock to many first-time visitors, and I was no exception.
I’ve shared 5 of the things I find challenging about Marrakech. I would now like to tell you about what it is that keeps me going back time and time again.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Here are 5 things I love about Marrakech.
1.
The people.
You can expect to meet the friendliest, most welcoming people you have ever met in Marrakech. They are constantly smiling and can’t wait to tell you all about their fascinating city. They are multi-lingual, and many people speak up to 5 different languages. They love to teach you about the Amazigh culture, the indigenous tribes of North Africa. Many of the people of Marrakech identify as Amazigh, and the history of their culture is really interesting. Moroccans are some of the most hospitable people in the world, and I always feel welcome.
2.
The vibrant colours and craftsmanship in Marrakech.
If, like me, you are drawn to colourful things, you will be in your element in the Souks. You will find jewellery, Berber rugs, wood carvings, and an array of other handcrafted items. Wherever you look, you will notice something that catches your eye. You will see skilled artisans creating Moroccan lamps and women demonstrating carpet weaving. The souks are a cacophony of colours. Lively and energetic. It’s a sight to behold.
3.
The food is delicious.
There are plenty of great restaurants in Marrakech, and the food is excellent. There are vegetarian and vegan restaurants, and many cater for people with gluten intolerance. The food is diverse, and you can find dishes to suit everyone’s palate. I would need years to work my way through all the exciting menus in Marrakech.
I enjoyed every meal I ordered, especially tagine and couscous. The deserts in Marrakesh are incredible. My favourite was the Japanese souffle pancakes in Fluffys.
4.
The Islamic architecture.
Islamic architecture, with its symmetry and attention to detail, is beautiful and had me spellbound. I recommend visiting the places below to see some of the finest examples of Islamic architecture and craftsmanship.
. Bahia Palace.
. Madrasa Ben Youssef.
. The saadian Tombs.
. The Koutoubia Mosque.
. Bacha Museum.
. Marrakech Museum
I loved the large wooden doors around the medina. The intricately carved cedarwood was a pleasure to see.
5.
Marrakech is central for visiting other places
I took a trip out to Agafay desert, and it was magical. There are trips to Ouzoud to see the second largest waterfall in North Africa. You can take a train to Casablanca or visit Essaouira on the coast for the day. There are shared taxis to Imlil in the Atlas mountains and domestic flights to Tangier. If you have three days to spare, you can venture further into the Sahara desert. If not, you can take a camel ride at sunset in the Palmerai. There are plenty of excursions that are accessible from the city, and the transport system is developing rapidly. Supratours and CTM buses can take you to many places, including Essaouira, in three hours.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are so many reasons why I love Marrakech. I have featured only a few.
If you’re looking for a place that combines ancient and modern. A place that is diverse. Somewhere that can sometimes feel like organised chaos yet functions perfectly. A place that will transport you to the tales from Arabian Nights, Marrakech, is all of those things and more. However, do not be under any illusion that you won’t see things you find difficult. Go with an open mind and compassion. That way, you will be prepared for the things you find different from what you’re used to.
The Sound Of The Souks 