Tag: Travel North Africa

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • EL BADI PALACE.

    El Badi Palace was built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor of the Saadian dynasty.

    The palace was built to showcase the considerable wealth of the Saadian dynasty and was a prime example of Islamic architecture and exquisite craftsmanship.

    Using both Moroccan and European influences, the palace was beautifully decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, marble arches, and ornate carvings.

    The palace was home to the sultans harem and included over 500 women.

    Now, only the ruins remain.

    After Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor died in 1603, the palace fell into neglect and was subsequently stripped away with the materials being used for other buildings in Morocco.

    The palace is certainly worth a visit if you want to learn about the history of Marrakech and the ruling elite centuries ago.

    The exhibition space contains the Almoravid Minbar, which is a finely decorated pulpit that once  stood in the Koutoubia Mosque.

    It also hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions.

    The underground chambers contain information and photographs about the palaces history.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The palace was badly damaged during the earthquake in 2023, and renovations have taken place to repair the cracks in the walls.

    El Badi Palace is situated in the Kasbah district of Marrakech and a popular tourist attraction.

    The courtyards are impressive, and the nesting storks on the towers give it a magical feel.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    You get a sense of the grandeur of the Saadian dynasty, and there’s a feeling of peace and tranquillity within the walls of the once opulent palace.

    El Badi Palace is open every day from 9.00am to 5.00pm and costs 100 dirhams to enter.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information, contact me via the email address below;

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  • SAADIAN TOMBS.

    One of the tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.

    Rediscovered in 1917, they have become a historical landmark dating back from the late sixteenth century.

    Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansoor and his family.

    The architecture is very impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and carrara marble.

    The main mausoleum is incredible, and there are usually very long queues to get to see it.

    It’s definitely recommended to arrive early to avoid waiting for sometimes more than an hour in the heat.

    The Saadian tombs are very decadent, with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles.

    They showcase the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Hidden for centuries, they were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.

    Located in the Kasbah next to the mosque, the opening times are;

    9.00am – 5.00pm

    The price of entry is 70 dirhams.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For more details, contact me via the email address below;

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  • KAFE MERSTAN.

    Kafe Merstan restaurant and rooftop terrace is located near the spice square and vegetable market in the medina.

    They serve traditional Morroccan food, and prices are very reasonable.

    I had one of the tastiest tagines here, and the overall quality of the food was good.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s popular during sunset, and tourists arrive to watch the sun go down from the rooftop.

    It’s quite spectacular and can get quite busy at this time of evening.

    The interior is traditional with a fairly modern twist.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s a no frills restaurant, and the price reflects this.

    Seating is upstairs on the rooftop, so people with mobility issues may not find it easy.

    Payment is by card or cash. However, there’s a minimum of 200 MAD for card payment.

    They will accept less but expect a few grumbles of disapproval.

    The address for Kafe Merstan is 2 Souk Chaaria Kast Benahid, Marrakech 40000.

    Opening hours are 12.00 until

    10.00pm.

    The restaurant is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef and Museum of Marrakech, so it’s in a strategic position and ideal for taking a break from sightseeing.

    Kafe Merstan offers a good selection of vegetarian dishes, including a very tasty vegetable pastilla.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For more details about places to eat in Marrakesh, contact me via the email address below;

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  • RIAD ZOUHOUR.

    Riad Zouhour is an absolutely charming riad in the medina.

    It is visually stunning  with  blue and white zellige tiles and exotic plants.

    Intricately carved wooden doors and ornate traditional window frames.

    Interior courtyard of riad Zouhour/images Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is an oasis of wonderful flowers and tropical plants, with plenty of places to sit and admire the beautiful surroundings.

    There is also a small pool for cooling off in.

    Rooftop of riad Zouhour/images Freebird Tracey.

    The rooms are spacious and beautifully decorated in a traditional yet modern style, with large private bathrooms containing nice fragrant products for use in the shower.

    A room in riad Zouhour/ images Freebird Tracey.

    The food is also very good.

    I loved the vegetable tagine and seasonal salad that I had served to me on arrival at the riad.

    My flight had been delayed, yet it was still hot and beautifully presented despite the time of night I eventually arrived.

    The staff are attentive and kind, going out of their way to make you feel welcome.

    Nothing is any trouble, and the overall atmosphere is relaxed and professional.

    The riad exudes luxury, yet it’s affordable and in a strategic location close to the centre of all the action.

    Riad Zouhour is a popular riad and gets booked up quickly, so booking in advance is recommended.

    As with most riads in the medina, they can also organise tours and excursions for you.

    The address is;

    33 Derb Snane,

    Medina 40000

    Marrakech Morocco.

    Check-in time is,

    00:00 until 23.30 hours.

    Check-out time is,

    5.00 until 00:00

    This is a riad I would highly recommend.

    I enjoyed my stay here, and I wouldn’t hesitate to go back.

    I loved the views from the rooftop, the pretty flowers and plants, and the overall treatment of the guests.

    It truly is a gem in the busy medina, a haven of peace and tranquillity.

    It is beautifully restored, and cleanliness is a priority here..

    For more details about places to stay in Marrakesh, contact me via the email address below:

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  • FOOD YOU SHOULD TRY IN MARRAKECH.

    Marrakech is a culinary delight for all foodies out there.

    The streets are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit.

    Herbs and spices galore.

    The aromatic aroma of street food fills the air, tempting the tastebuds.

    Fine restaurants with impeccable service, in beautiful surroundings, call out to you to come inside and sample their cuisine.

    But where do you start?

    What do you order?

    If you’re anything like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of places you’re visiting.

    I particularly enjoy sampling the signature dishes of a region and eating the same food that locals do.

    It’s a way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.

    The locals are very hospitable people and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family.

    With an overwhelming choice of food to choose from,  you may need a little help to decide what to try..

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.

    Tagine is the name of the clay or ceramic pot that the dish is cooked in.

    It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre.

    Chicken or lamb is the most popular.

    Often, dates, olives, fresh lemon, and spices are added for flavour, and everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine.

    Chicken tagine/image Freebird Tracey.

    Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables.

    It is eaten religiously on Fridays.

    In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails for sale.

    Tourists are targeted by street food vendors to try snails, and those who actually do say that they quite enjoyed the experience.

    Apparently, broth they’re cooked in is quite tasty, and although it’s an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible.

    Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us, but it appears to be popular in the main square and a regular sight on display.

    The locals sit at street stalls eagerly munching on the spit roasted mutton, enjoying every morsel.

    Snails in a broth/image Freebird Tracey.

    Every dish is served with traditional bread in Marrakech. It is freshly baked each morning and delicious served warm.

    Tangier is also a popular dish.

    It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam.

    Traditionally, the tangier is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day.

    It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread.

    The meat is incredibly tender and falls off the bone.

    Tangier cooking in the Hammam/image Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of street food vendors in the medina, tucked away in the souks.

    They serve really good quality food and it’s cheap.

    There is a row of street food vendors who only sell tangiers, and this is very popular with locals and tourists alike.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Taking a street food tour is a great way to get to try the best places. There are several tours available during the daytime or evening.

    Street food vendor in the medina/image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech caters to vegetarians and vegans also, with a good choice of quality food including excellent salads, delicious vegetable tagine and couscous.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Several Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food.

    Olives are served with tea and other beverages as a complimentary side.

    They can be spicy or plain, always fresh, and the perfect aperitif.

    They are deliciously fresh when bought straight from the vendors themselves.

    Complimentary olives/image Freebird Tracey.

    The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are incredibly good, and the desserts served after the main course of a meal are beautiful.

    The choice on most menus is really good and varied.

    There’s no point watching your waistline here..

    Dates are hugely popular, and  medjool dates are known as ‘ fruits of the King’, so make sure to try some.

    You won’t be disappointed.

    Fresh fruit is for sale everywhere around the medina and incorporated into tantalising sweet dishes that make your mouth water.

    NB: I have a separate post about smoothies and juices in Marrakesh.

    Beautiful cheesecake and sweets in Marrakesh/image Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food.

    With so much to choose from and so many different dishes and flavours to try, you would need months to eat your way through it all.

    Not only is there a great variety of interesting and tasty food, but it’s beautifully presented too.

    Imagine sitting in the most beautiful setting, next to exotic plants, and trickling fountains.

    That’s my experience of eating in Marrakesh..

    112 Tea House/image Freebird Tracey.

    For more information on places to dine, use the email address below.

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  • RIAD BOHEMIAN JUNGLE.

    The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech.

    It exudes charm and authenticity.

    The interior decor is simply captivating, with several tastily put-together nooks and crannies to sit and take in its splendour.

    Interior of the Bohemian Jungle/ Images Freebird Tracey.

    The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in.

    The green tiles and exotic plants make it a stunning focal point of the riad.

    Interior pool/images Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is magical. Surrounded by pretty, draping flowers, plants, and lanterns.

    There are several areas to hang out in.

    A balinese bed for relaxing on and a cerise, romantic boudoir area, where the staff play traditional tuareg music.

    There are areas to catch a spot of sunshine and places to sit where you are shaded.

    This is perfect for when the hot morroccan sun reaches its highest temperature in the day.

    Photos of the rooftop at the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey.

    The staff are relaxed and friendly, and the vibe is laid back and chilled.

    The riad is run by three professional, yet charismatic young men from the Sahara region.

    Their knowledge of the area is invaluable, and they enjoy sharing a little piece of their fascinating culture with guests.

    The breakfasts are varied and wholesome, consisting of a mix of traditional pancakes, honey, and jam.

    Fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.

    Fresh orange juice and coffee.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits, whilst you are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.

    This is helpful for finding your way back to the riad.

    The fragrance inside is intoxicating.

    Orange blossom and cinnamon oil gently floats on the air, the lamps glow, and  Berber music plays subtly in the background.

    I never wanted to leave..

    I was so happy sitting in the riad, taking in the beauty and experiencing the wonder of such a magnificent place..

    Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly.

    If you are looking for TVs and a modern approach to your trip to Marrakech, you won’t find it here.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture, lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.

    It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and several nice shops and restaurants.

    The address is;

    Derb al Maada

    Hay azbezte

    39 Medina, Medina 40030

    Marrakech, Morrocco.

    Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can also be arranged by this riad.

    They are good value for money and well organised.

    Enjoying a moment of tranquillity at the Bohemian Jungle.
    Sunrise from the rooftop of the Bohemian Jungle/image Freebird Tracey.
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  • LE JARDIN SECRET

    Le Jardin Secret is located inside the medina.

    It’s a hidden gem, a peaceful retreat from the madness of the souks, and Jamaa el Fna.

    It is a little oasis with exotic plants and flowers where you can sit and enjoy the calm and beautiful surroundings.

    There is a beautifully painted pergoda in the centre.

    It comprises of two large gardens and one of the highest towers in the medina.

    There is a museum, boutique, and two coffee shops on site also.

    Le Jardin Secret dates back 400 years ago to the Saadian dynasty and was left to decay before being discovered and renovated in the nineteenth century.

    It is the perfect example of Islamic art and architecture, and you can read all about its history inside the museum.

    The beautiful gardens of Le Jardin Secret

    The gardens are simply beautiful with Cacti, palm trees, and other floral plants and shrubs.

    The sound of birdsong and toads in the little pond feels like a world away from outside the walls.

    As you wander around the tranquil gardens, you forget you are inside the busy medina, dodging motorcycles and donkey carts.

    The stunning tilework on the floor.

    There are plenty of benches dotted around the gardens to sit peacefully and enjoy the tranquillity and beauty surrounding you.

    Sat observing the peace and quiet inside Le Jardin Secret.

    Le Jardin Secret is located at,

    121 Rue Mouassine

    Marrakech 40030 Morocco.

    Opening times vary depending on the time of the year.

    It costs 100 dirhams to enter.

    It is wheelchair user-friendly.

    The cafe has a nice selection of sandwiches, pizzas, and salads with fruit and vegetable smoothies, hot and cold drinks, and homemade cakes.

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  • LIMONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT

    Limoni italian restaurant is an excellent choice for diners who fancy a change from traditional Morroccan food.

    They serve both authentic Italian cuisine and traditional Morroccan food.

    The surroundings are incredibly pretty, with lemon and orange trees in the courtyard and lovely little lanterns hanging from them.

    There is also a rooftop area and outdoor seating.

    I chose a margarita pizza which was cooked to perfection. The base tasted really authentic.

    I had a tirimisu for dessert, and that was also delicious.

    At Limoni, they serve alcoholic beverages, including cocktails, wines, and spirits.

    We finished our meal with a limoncello to celebrate our wonderful trip to Marrakech.

    A toast to good health and happiness.

    There is a fireplace for cooler evenings during the winter months and outdoor seating.

    It is recommended to book as the restaurant can get busy.

    The address is,

    40 Rue Diour Saboun

    Marrakech 40000 Morrocco

    Limoni Italian restaurant is suitable for people with limited mobility and wheelchair users.

    They also have vegetarian and vegan options available on the menu.

    They do excellent pasta dishes, and apparently, the camel hamburger is quite popular.

    All the meals are reasonably priced and have good value for money.

    The courtyard inside Pepe Nero.

    It was a nice dining experience at Limoni. Although it was quite busy, it felt intimate and  relaxed without being pretentious.

    From the outside, it appears rather unassuming.

    Once you enter inside, it is spacious and inviting.

    At the moment, it is temporarily closed.

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  • MONRIAD

    A traditional riad close to Jamaa El Fna.

    The colourful rooftop of Monriad.

    The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed in Monriad.

    This is where my love affair with the medina began.

    I had no idea what to expect and was absolutely amazed at the wonderful experience I had staying in a traditional riad for the first time.

    Monriad was so pretty.

    The courtyard was tranquil, and the sound of the trickling water and birds singing was blissful.

    Inside Monriad

    The owner and her staff were friendly and helpful, greeting me with the ultimate respect and offering traditional mint tea with olives on arrival.

    A welcoming glass of mint tea.

    I was given helpful advice about the area surrounding the riad and popular excursions I might wish to book.

    She also suggested that I could eat dinner in the riad with the other guests and recommended places of interest close by.

    The rooftop was glorious, and watching the sunrise up there each morning really was a blessing.

    Sunrise from Monriad rooftop.

    My room was impeccable, with traditional and good quality furniture and a beautiful bathroom with a traditional basin.

    The riad smelt amazing. Cleanliness was a top priority for the staff.

    There was a large, traditional, carved wooden door into the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem.

    I did eat dinner once inside the riad, and the food was quite good. It was popular with other guests who seemed to really enjoy dining inside the riad.

    The breakfast was very good.

    Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street.

    It’s a pleasant, safe area with several cats and kittens who have also made the surrounding streets their home.

    Making friends with the locals.

    Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace, yet it is peaceful and secluded.

    It is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained a family and welcoming feel about it.

    It remains my mission to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh, but I would definitely consider returning to Monriad.

    Monriad can be found at the address below,

    N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, Riad

    Zitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

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  • JAMAA EL FNA AT NIGHT.

    Jamaa El Fna comes alive in the evening, attracting thousands of people from around Morrocco and tourists alike.

    If you think it’s a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set.

    Gone are the snake charmers and chained monkies to be replaced with food vendors and henna ladies, street musicians, and dancers.

    Enjoying some performers in the square.

    The scene is organised chaos and a sensory overload.

    The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted.

    This is where people come together to meet each other, eat traditional street food, and sip mint tea and freshly squeezed juice.

    The atmosphere is electric and vibrates with a magnetic energy.

    Street vendors pursue potential customers with menus as they try to navigate their way through the crowds.

    Sometimes, they can be very persistent, and you can feel somewhat intimidated.

    The scene is very intense yet magical and exciting.

    I really enjoyed myself, but other people say that they felt slightly overwhelmed.

    It is unlike anything else you may have experienced.

    There is so much to see. There are games being played, and a few little scams take place to trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around, chat with each other, or play with a football close to the walls of the medina.

    Sugarcane is sold from vending carts.

    Bemused onlookers sit observing everything outside restaurants or from the rooftops in the square as the mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes intense and electrifying.

    The square is transformed into a social hub where anything and everything takes place.

    As night falls, the square comes alive.

    It’s an incredible experience.

    The bright lights dazzle from the food vendors, and beautiful Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets light the way, giving off a wonderful glow.

    The aroma of sheeps head cooking floats through the air.

    Tourists tempted to try a bowl of snails queue to sample this culinary delight.

    Drums beat, belly dancers perform to curious onlookers and acrobats show off their skills to the crowds.

    From restaurant windows around the square, you can watch from a safe distance,  but you can not escape the craziness.

    It magnetises you.

    The sheer madness, a complete assault on the senses in every way possible.

    View from the window of a restaurant, overlooking Jamaa El Fna/image Freebird Tracey.

    It’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play, and they are determined to have a good time.

    Jamaa El Fna at night is truly a spectacle to behold.

    It’s lively, colourful, aromatic, and noisy.

    Be sure to visit and become a part of what makes Marrakech so unique.

    It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid obvious scams.

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