A peaceful, fragrant riad in the heart of the medina.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed in Monriad.
This is where my love affair with the medina began.
I had no idea what to expect and was absolutely amazed at the wonderful experience I had staying in a traditional riad for the first time.
Monriad was so pretty.
The courtyard was tranquil, and the sound of the trickling water and birds singing was blissful.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The owner and her staff were friendly and helpful, greeting me with the ultimate respect and offering traditional mint tea with olives on arrival.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I was given helpful advice about the area surrounding the riad and popular excursions I might wish to book.
She also suggested that I could eat dinner in the riad with the other guests and recommended places of interest close by.
The rooftop was glorious, and watching the sunrise up there each morning really was a blessing.
Captured by Freebird Tracey.
My room was impeccable, with traditional and good quality furniture and a beautiful bathroom with a traditional basin.
The riad smelt amazing. Cleanliness was a top priority for the staff.
There was a large, traditional, carved wooden door into the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem.
I did eat dinner once inside the riad, and the food was quite good. It was popular with other guests who seemed to really enjoy dining inside the riad.
The breakfast was very good.
Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street.
It’s a pleasant, safe area with several cats and kittens who have also made the surrounding streets their home.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace, yet it is peaceful and secluded.
It is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained a family and welcoming feel about it.
It remains my mission to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh, but I would definitely consider returning to Monriad.
If you think that the main square in Marrakech is a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set.
Gone are the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, replaced by food vendors, henna ladies, street musicians, and dancers.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The scene is organised chaos and a complete sensory overload.
The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted.
The drumming becomes intense, and the square takes on the appearance of a huge fair ground with thousands of people congregating.
People from Marrakech and beyond come together to meet each other, alongside tourists all vying for space to watch the spectacle unfold.
The atmosphere is electric and vibrates with a magnetic energy.
Street vendors pursue potential customers with menus as they try to navigate their way through the crowds.
They hop in front of you, and you have to dodge them like you are part of some assault course.
Images by Freebird Tracey
Sometimes, they can be very persistent, and you can feel pretty intimidated.
Camel head and fresh snails may not be your thing, and you have to be quite firm when telling them you’ve already eaten.
Although the scene is very intense, it is magical and exciting.
I really enjoyed myself, but other people were saying that they felt overwhelmed.
They preferred sitting on the edge of the square, sipping mint tea, and observing from a safe distance.
It is unlike anything else you may have experienced.
There is so much to see. There are games being played, and a few little scams take place to trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.
Locals hang around the cafe de France, chatting with each other over coffee.
Youths play football against the walls of the medina.
Sugarcane and fresh juice are sold from vending carts by lively vendors in high spirits.
Bemused onlookers sit observing everything outside restaurants or from the rooftops around the square as the Koutoubia mosque rings out the call to prayer.
As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes electrifying.
The square is transformed into a social hub where anything and everything takes place.
It’s an incredible experience.
The bright lights dazzle from the food vendors, and beautiful Morroccan lamps sit for sale on blankets lighting the way, giving off a wonderful glow.
The scent of fragrant incense competes with the aroma of sheeps head cooking, floating through the air on the breeze.
Tourists tempted to try a traditional bowl of snails queue to sample this culinary delight.
Drums beat, belly dancers perform to curious onlookers and acrobats show off their skills to the gathering crowd.
You can not escape the craziness.
It draws you in.
It is the heartbeat of the city.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Jamaa El Fna magnetises you.
The sheer chaos is a complete assault on the senses in every way possible.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Just be mindful when stopping to take photos.
Someone in the thick of the action is eagle eyed and continuously watching for interested tourists who have stopped to watch.
They will spring upon you from out of nowhere, cap in hand for a donation.
After sunset, it’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play in Jamaa El Fna, and they are determined to have a good time.
It is truly a spectacle to behold.
Lively, colourful, aromatic, and noisy.
Be sure to visit and become a part of what makes Marrakech so unique.
It’s certainly an eye-opener.
Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid obvious scams.
Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.
They have a good selection of high-quality dishes on the menu to suit all palates.
You enter the bar from the road, and it’s up a couple of flights of stairs.
From the outside, it looks rather unassuming, but inside, it is very modern and tastefully furnished.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There are lanterns hanging everywhere, giving off a cosy, glow, and music videos playing on a large television screen.
Video by Freebird Tracey.
It’s a very busy venue with young and old alike, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.
The bar itself is huge, serving a variety of alcoholic beverages and cocktails.
You can either sit inside the bar or on the rooftop, where most people prefer to hang out listening to the music.
Table service is provided.
The food is delicious..
I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Some people have expressed mixed reviews, saying waiting times to be served are lengthy and found it was a little pricey in comparison to other places.
The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.
Kababa gets very busy, and booking is advisable to guarantee a place, especially if you only wish to visit for a drink.
Lunchtime is generally quieter, and the lunch menu is also very good.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The bathroom is rather special too..
Kabana rooftop bar is lively and loud. It is typical of somewhere you’d expect to find in Gueliz.
There is a spectacular view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, especially at nighttime.
It’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe..
Image by Freebird Tracey.
It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,
11.00am-2.00am
They play DJ sets, and it’s a vibrant setting with a relaxed dress code.
It is not the ideal place for a romantic or quiet meal, I found it rather difficult to hold a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.
Lunchtime would be better suited if you’re looking for a more intimate experience.
There are plenty of places in the medina offering a quieter environment if that’s something you’re looking for.
Kabana is a modern cocktail bar with a vibrant energy within walking distance for people staying in the medina.
It’s definitely worth a visit if you want an exciting evening out in the medina.
A beautiful, peaceful environment serving authentic Morroccon food.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Palais Dar Donab is a special treat for visitors to Marrakech.
The scent of orange blossom fills the air, and the sound of birds chirping in the courtyard gives a sense of complete peace and tranquillity whilst dining here.
This was one of my favourite places to visit and I absolutely love it here.
I keep going back time and time again.
Sometimes, it is for a glass of wine during the afternoon and a welcome break from sightseeing.
It’s a place where you can unwind and enjoy the sunny courtyard with its large pool in the centre.
Image Freebird Tracey.
The menu is extensive with food to suit all palates.
They also serve a decent selection of excellent wines and beers.
I was really impressed with the quality of food and enjoyed each meal I have eaten in this fine restaurant.
The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I have tried in Marrakesh, and the delicious smoothies were beautifully presented and full of fresh, vibrant fruit.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Palais Dar Donab is also a high-end accommodation, where guests and visitors mingle together for a quiet break from the busy medina.
As you relax in the calm, tranquil surroundings, you never feel rushed.
The pace is slow and calm.
The staff are attentive, and at the same time, they allow you to enjoy the lovely, peaceful setting without feeling any pressure to leave.
The gentle sound of the leaves on the trees and the trickling water make dining here a very pleasant experience.
Tangerines fall from the trees, and you can hear the birds singing happily.
Palais Dar Donab is open for lunch as well as dinner.
The tables are set around a large pool with citrus trees lining the courtyard.
Beautiful flowers add an array of colour.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Music is played subtly in the background, allowing conversation to flow and a nice laid-back atmosphere.
Relaxing for an hour or so admiring the intricate craftsmanship that surrounds you is a perfect way to recharge your batteries.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I highly recommend trying Palais Dar Donab, not just for the quality of the food or the friendly service, but for the peace and serenity it offers.
You come away feeling recharged and de-stressed after the overwhelming medina with crowds of tourists.
It’s a pleasant oasis in comparison to the over stimulating Jamaa El Fna.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Opening hours are,
Monday-Sunday
10.00am-10.30pm
Address is,
53 Dar el Basha-Bab,
Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.
The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit card payments.
Riad Dombaraka has a beautiful courtyard with a small pool for guests to cool down in.
The plants are green and lush, and listening to the birds singing amongst the foliage is a blissful experience.
Every inch of riad Dombaraka is tastefully decorated with beautiful paintings and elegant furniture.
It feels as though you are staying in a royal palace.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The rooms are large and decorated with interesting African artefacts, and the bed was really comfortable.
The rooftop is spacious with great views across the rooftops of the city.
It’s great for sunbathing with plenty of spaces to sit and sunbeds for soaking up some of the hot, morroccan sun.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
There is a wonderful library with an assortment of books for guests to read, and it’s furnished with tasteful Moroccan furniture.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The riad is kept spotlessly clean, and the staff are very friendly.
They appear happy to be a part of this wonderfully peaceful environment.
Riad Dombaraka is owned by a French woman called Dominique, who gives her guests the warmest welcome when they arrive.
She suggests nice places to eat and visit and orders tuktuks to take you through the souks.
The riad is a hidden gem, located down a few winding alleyways.
There are locals selling vegetables and fish, giving a true picture of morroccan life, but I always felt safe.
There is evidence of the 2023 earthquake that took place in Marrakech and work going on to restore the area to its former glory.
The breakfast at Riad Dombaraka was lovely.
It consisted of traditional Morroccan food, including msemen pancakes, eggs, fresh fruit, and yoghurt.
There was plenty of variety, and it was very filling.
The coffee was real coffee and gave me the boost I need to motivate me in the morning.
Riad Dombaraka is not considered to be budget accommodation, but it is definitely good value for money.
It is an elegant riad, quite luxurious, yet maintains its traditional character and charm.
Guests are offered gratuitous fresh water and regularly asked if they would like a pot of mint tea.
Relaxing by the pool, listening to the sound of music playing in the background and birds singing, you would never know the craziness of the Souks are literally a stones throw away outside the door.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Behind the door of riad Dombaraka, the scene is serene and tranquil.
I highly recommend Riad Dombaraka.
It’s far enough from the stimulating Jamaa El Fna, yet everything is within easy walking distance.
Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.
They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.
Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.
For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.
They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.
Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.
To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.
There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug..
1. Shearing the Sheep
Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife.
The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip.
The wool is then sorted and cleaned.
It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.
The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.
2. Carding.
Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn. To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.
This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction.
Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn. Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable.
The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.
The women are often responsible for this process.
3. Spinning the wool into yarn.
To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle.
This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom.
The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands.
As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.
4. Weaving the rug.
The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.
This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last for many years. The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.
The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.
Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.
The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design. The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.
The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.
The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.
Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task, and the women of the village who weave them rarely get anything near the price they’re sold for.
Husbands load them onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer who gives him a fraction of their value.
Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.
They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.
There are a few scams, so be mindful before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local, promising you the best quality and prices.
Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.
The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.
Morocco took its name from Marrakech.
The Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the Western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.
During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.
They constructed an underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.
They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.
His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.
He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.
In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.
They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque, which is the largest mosque in Marrakech and a significant landmark.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.
They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.
They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.
This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.
The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.
They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne.
Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but the Merinids much preferred the city of Fez, which resulted in Marrakech going into serious decline.
Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.
Because of this move to Fez, Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected.
The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.
From 1578-1603, the Saadian Sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power.
They restored the city to its former glory and established Marrakech as its capital city.
They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.
The Saads built Bab Doukkala mosque in 1557-1571 and Mouassine mosque in 1562-72.
They also built the Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.
The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries.
They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.
They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.
They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, redeveloping it’s infrastructure.
It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.
Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.
Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.
The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.
They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.
In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.
Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.
It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.
In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.
It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.
Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.
Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.
As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating.
It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..
Sounds Of The Souks 