The Sound Of The Souks

Tag: Travel North Africa

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

  • The History Of Marrakech.

    A look at the history of the ancient red city.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech has been inhabited for over 1000 years Morocco took its name from Marrakech.The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.The Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the Western kingdom, later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.

    During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070, they began constructing an underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.They built riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city. His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech even further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.He erected mud brick houses, giving the city its prominent,distinctive red colour its famous for today.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and market places called souks began to spring up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.

    In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque, which is the largest mosque in Marrakech and a significant landmark.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the affluent city. They also introduced education and art, turning it into a political, economical, and cultural centre. They also began improving on the original water system by building open air canals, which allowed water to flow down from the  high Atlas mountains. This gave people a better quality of life, and they began to flourish. The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne. Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but the Merinids decided that they preferred the city of Fes, which resulted in Marrakech going into serious decline. Fes soon became the new capital city, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.

    Because of the move to Fes, Marrakech was practically abandoned and left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected. The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.

    From 1578-1603, the Saadian  Sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power. They restored the forgotten city to its former glory and breathed new life into it, reastablishing Marrakech into a capital city once again.They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate zellige tilework work and stucco decoration.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art. The Saads built Bab Doukkala mosque in 1557-1571 and Mouassine mosque in 1562-72.They also built the Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family. The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and other European countries. They improved date palm crops and modernised the army. They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes. They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, redeveloping it’s infrastructure after years of decline.

    It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.

    Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fes. Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in both trade and tourism. The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst still aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city. They encouraged tourism and the export of Moroccan dates and other produce. In 1956, the treaty of Fes was passed back, and Morocco gained its independence again.

    Throughout its history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.It has fought against several invasions and endured  plagues and famines.

    In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city. It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.

    Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity. Visitors can get a glimpse into its intriguing past as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina. As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.

    The city is developing fast and attracting tourism at an exceptionally high rate. Despite this, it still continues to retain its culture, customs, and historical significance.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • What Is The Food Like In Marrakech?

    A look at popular food choices in Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The famous red city is a culinary delight for foodies. The streets are abundant with fresh, seasonal vegetables and fruit. There are herbs and spices galore in colourful barrels everywhere you look. The fragrance of street food fills the air, tempting your tastebuds. Restaurants with  decadent surroundings call out to you to sample their cuisine.

    But where do you start and what should you order?

    Like me, you may want to fully immerse yourself in the culture of a country you’re visiting. I enjoy sampling the signature dishes of places I visit and eating the food that the locals do. It’s the best way to get to know the culture, and food is a big part of life in Morrocco.

    Moroccan people are known for their hospitality and often invite tourists home for a meal with their family. If you get the chance to go do it. It’s a way to understand the people and their culture. Plus, there’s nothing better than traditional food homecooked by a local family.

    So,with an overwhelming choice of food to choose from, you may need a little help deciding what to try. I’ve put together a few ideas for you to choose from.

    The two most popular dishes in Marrakesh are tagine and couscous.Tagine is the name of the clay pot that the dish is cooked in. It consists of layers of fresh vegetables,with meat in the centre. Chicken or lamb is the most popular meat used. Dates, olives, preserved lemon, and spices such as the Moroccan spice blend ras el hanout are added to give the tagine flavour. Everyone has their own personal recipe for making a tagine, and they differ in each restaurant. However, they all use the same principle of layering the vegetables into a pyramid around the meat.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Couscous is a grain made from semolina and served with meat and vegetables. It is eaten religiously on Fridays and a staple dish in Morocco and other North African countries. Couscous is finely textured and often served with harissa sauce to make the consistency less dry.

    In Jamaa El Fna, you will find sheeps head and snails. Tourists are encouraged by  street food vendors to try a dish of snails, and those who do have said that they quite enjoyed the experience. Apparently, the broth that they’re cooked in tastes of aniseed, and although an unusual tasting dish, it’s not inedible. Many tourists actually liked them.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.
    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Sheeps head is for the brave amongst us. It’s a regular sight on display in the main square during the evening. Locals sit at stalls alongside tourists next to the  charcoaled heads eating spit roasted mutton and sausages. The open-air restaurants are very popular, and the aroma of food can be smelt all around the main square.

    In Marrakech, each meal is served with traditional bread. It is freshly baked every morning in communal ovens called Ferrans. Khobz is a traditional round crusty flatbread and used in place of cutlery to scoop up the food.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Tangia is also a popular dish. It is meat (usually lamb), cooked very slowly in the embers of the local hammam. Traditionally, the tangia is taken to the hammam early in the morning and left to cook throughout the day. It is then collected and served for dinner with vegetables or bread. The meat is incredibly tender and simply falls off the bone. There is a row of street vendors dedicated to selling tangias in the medina. This is very popular with locals and tourists alike. The area gets very busy with people queueing for a vessel of succulent lamb or beef.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of street food vendors tucked away in the souks. They sell really good quality food and it’s cheap. Ideal for travellers on a tighter budget. Taking a street food tour is a great way to try all the best places serving traditional local food. There are several tours available during the daytime or evening. Tourists get the chance to sample authentic Moroccan cuisine with a registered guide. Delicacies like the spleen sandwich and Tripe are something that you may be introduced to during a street food tour. Remember to go with an empty stomach because there’s so much food to get through.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakech also caters to people who are vegetarians and vegans. There is a good choice of food, including salad,vegetable tagine, pastilla, and couscous. Most dishes can be adapted for people who don’t eat meat. There are a few excellent vegetarian restaurants in the medina, and more are opening as tourism grows.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Pigeon is also eaten in Marrakech and traditionally used for the filling in Pastilla. There are camel burgers available at The Clock restaurant in the kasbah if you want to try something different.

    Italian restaurants in the medina offer excellent pizzas and pasta dishes if you fancy a change from morroccan food. I recommend Pepe Nero or Limoni Italian Restaurant.

    Olives are served with most beverages as a complimentary side dish in Marrakech. They are either lightly spiced or plain. They are really fresh when you buy them straight off the vendors in the souks. Don’t hesitate to try some. They are delicious.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The sweets and pastries in Marrakech are really good. Baclava is a traditional sweet and popular with the tourists. Moroccans have a sweet tooth as you will gather from the breakfasts high in carbohydrates and cakes. The choice of deserts on the menu in restaurants is really creative. There’s no point watching your waistline in Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Dates are a hugely popular snack in Marrakech, and medjool dates known as ‘The King of Dates’ are widely available around the medina. Make sure to try some. You won’t be disappointed with the soft caramaly taste.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Fresh fruit is sold everywhere in Marrakesh. It’s used in tantalising sweet dishes and refreshing smoothies that make your mouth water. Sugarcane and pomegranate juice is a favourite of mine and only costs a few dirhams.

    Marrakech is a dream come true for people who love their food. With so much to choose from, you would need months to eat your way through it all. Not only is there a great variety, but it’s beautifully presented too. Imagine sitting in a tranquil setting next to exotic plants, with the sound of birds and trickling fountains. Or on a rooftop terrace at dusk watching the sunset as you tuck into a plate of delicious food. Those are memorable experiences of eating in Marrakesh.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Be open to getting out of your comfort zone and give some of the traditional Moroccan dishes a go. You may be pleasantly surprised. If you’re not adventurous, many restaurants serve European, Mediterranean cuisine. The choice is endless.

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  • The Saadian Tombs.

    A testimony to the opulence of the Saadian dynasty.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    One of the most popular tourist attractions in Marrakesh is the Saadian tombs.

    The Saadian tombs have become a historical landmark dating back as far as the late sixteenth century. Built by the Saadian dynasty, they house the mausoleums of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour and his family.

    The  mixture of Spanish and Moorish architecture is really impressive, with detailed stucco work, intricate mosaic tiles, and Italian Carrara marble.The main mausoleum is quite remarkable, with beautifully decorated ceilings and columns and there are usually very long queues waiting to see it. The Saadian tombs are very decadent with a mixture of Morroccan, Andalusian, and European styles, showcasing the wealth of the Saadian dynasty.

    I recommend arriving early around opening time to avoid waiting too long to see the main mausoleum. Tourists can wait for over an hour in the heat, so make sure you have a bottle of water handy just in case.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs were hidden for centuries. They were spotted through aerial photography and are now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakesh.

    Housing over 100 tombs with beautiful zellige tiles and marble columns, this royal necropolis was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansour to honour his ancestors. The chamber of 12 columns is where the tombs of Ahmed al- Mansour and his successors are laid to rest. In the gardens lie the tombs of soldiers and servants. There is a smaller  tranquil chamber, which is called the Chamber of Three Niches.

    The Saadian Tombs are an example of Moroccos’ rich history and culture. They are in close proximity to El Badi Palace and Bahia Palace. Both are worth a visit if your you’re interested in Islamic art and architecture.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The Saadian Tombs are in the Kasbah next to the mosque, and the opening times are 9.00 am until 5.00pm daily. The price of entry at the time of writing is 100 dirhams.

    The Kasbah is located to the south of the medina.

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  • El Badi Palace.

    The ruins of an extravagant palace from the Saadian dynasty.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    El Badi Palace was built in 1578 by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour of the Saadian dynasty. The palace was built to showcase the considerable wealth of the Saadian dynasty and was a prime example of Islamic architecture and exquisite craftsmanship.

    Using both Moroccan and European influences, the palace was beautifully decorated with intricate mosaic tiles, marble arches, and ornate carvings. There were 300 rooms decorated in gold, turquoise, and crystal. It was also home to the sultans harem, which included over 500 women.

    When Meknes became the new capital city, the palace was completely stripped of all its materials and transported there to create a new palace.  After the death of Sultan Ahmad al-Mansour in 1603, the palace fell into neglect. Now, only the ruins remain.

    El Badi is worth a visit if you want to learn about the history of Marrakech and the elite who ruled centuries ago.There is an interesting exhibition area containing the Almoravid Minbar, which is the finely decorated pulpit that once  stood inside the Koutoubia Mosque. The area also hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions. There are underground chambers that contain information and photographs about the history of the palace.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Unfortunately, the palace was badly damaged during the earthquake in 2023, and renovations have taken place to repair the cracks in the walls. It’s still a tranquil place to visit, and the huge courtyard feels very calm and peaceful. The storks nesting on top of the towers give it a mystical atmosphere.

    El Badi Palace is situated in the Kasbah district, which is to the south of the city. It is close to the Saadian tombs, an impressive burial site, and another place to visit to get an understanding of the history of Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Visiting this once opulent palace, you get a sense of the wealth and grandeur of the Saadian dynasty. There’s a feeling of tranquillity within its walls, and you appreciate its historical significance.

    El Badi Palace is open every day from 9.00am to 5.00pm and costs 100 dirhams to enter.

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  • The House of Photography.

    See a private collection of 10,000 rare exhibits.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The House of Photography is an important cultural venue in Marrakech. Housed in an old fondouk in the medina, a visit here is a fascinating journey through time.

    It was established by Patrick Manac’h and Hamid Mergani as a place where old photos taken in Morocco could be displayed for the public to view. It opened its doors to the public in 2009 and is now home to thousands of original documents, photographs, postcards, newspapers, and photographic glass plates.

    A private collection of 10,000 exhibits from 1879-1960, including contemporary photos from the present, allows visitors an opportunity to get to know the history of the Berber tribes in the high Atlas Mountains.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The first colour film recorded in the High Atlas Mountains in 1957, called ‘Landscapes and Faces of the High Atlas Mountains’ by Daniel Chicault, is also available for visitors to watch.

    The Museum of Photography is incredibly interesting, and the photos on display are well preserved, giving visitors to Marrakech a detailed account of how Berbers lived. I was fascinated by how the women dressed and their incredible hairstyles. Watching the video has broadened my knowledge about the history of Berber culture and their customs. It’s only as recent as the 1950s, yet they survived without electricity or medical care.

    The displays stay interesting because they changed them periodically, and at the time I visited, there was one about Berber Jews.

    Inside the museum, there is a rooftop cafe serving drinks, including speciality coffee and food. There are views across the rooftops of the medina, and you can see the Atlas mountains in the distance. It can get pretty busy during the lunchtime rush.

    You can purchase copies of some of the photographs in the entrance, and the quality of the prints is good. I bought a copy of Un Charmeur de Serpents – vers 1920, and it looks great in a vintage photo frame.

    The museum is open daily from 9.00 am until 7.00pm.

    The address is 46 rue Ahl Fes, Bin Lafnadek Marrakech 400030, not far from Ben Youssef Madrasa.

    Payment is on entry only, and it’s 80 dirhams for adults, 15 years old and under are free. The ticket also permits entry into the museum of music.

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  • Le Jardin Secret.

    Spend time in a serene corner of the souks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Jardin Secret is a hidden gem inside the medina. It’s a restored 19th-century palace complex in the Mouassine district of Marrakech. An oasis of exotic plants and flowers where you can sit and enjoy the calm and beautiful surroundings, listening to the birds singing in the trees.  Nestled secretly in the middle of the souks amidst the chaos, suddenly appears this quiet, enchanting space to spend a little time recharging your batteries.

    In the heart of this magical oasis, there is a decorative pagoda to sit in the shade and recollect your thoughts.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Jardin Secret boasts two attractive large gardens. One containing a range of plants from around the world, the other a traditional geometric Islamic garden. It also has one of the highest towers in the medina with panoramic views.

    There is also a museum, a boutique, and two coffee shops on site if you want to enjoy a drink or a few light refreshments sitting in the sunshine.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Jardin Secret dates back 400 years ago to the Saadian dynasty and was left to decay before being discovered and renovated in the nineteenth century. It is a prime example of the beauty of Islamic art and architecture, and you can find out more about its history inside the museum.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The gardens are simply beautiful with Cacti, palm trees, and other exotic plants, flowers, and shrubs. There is a small pond with resident toads and turtles who sit basking on the rocks to the delight of passing tourists. The harmonious sound of birdsong allows you to feel like you’re a world away from the busy souks outside the walls.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of benches dotted around the gardens for you to sit and enjoy the tranquillity and beauty that surrounds you, sitting here peacefully, you forget you are still inside the busy medina, dodging motorcycles, tourists, and donkeys.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    To get the most peaceful experience from your visit to Le Jardin Secret, I suggest arriving early in the daytime before the gardens become too busy with other tourists.

    Le Jardin Secret is located at 121 Rue Mouassine Marrakech 40030 Morocco. Opening times may vary depending on the time of year.It costs 100 dirhams to enter, and the gardens are wheelchair user-friendly.

    The cafes serve sandwiches, pizzas, and salads. They also offer hot and cold beverages, including juice, smoothies, tea, coffee, and a selection of delicious homemade cakes.

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  • Jamaa El Fna At Sunset.

    Experience the heartbeat of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you think that Jamaa El Fna  is a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set. Gone are the snake charmers and monkeys on chains, to be replaced by open-air restaurants, gnawa musicians, gambling, and exotic dancers.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The scene is organised chaos and a complete sensory overload. The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted. The drumming becomes intense as the main square takes on the image of a huge fair ground.

    Thousands of people from all over the city and beyond come together to meet each other, alongside tourists all vying for space to watch the spectacle unfold. The exciting atmosphere is electric and pulsates with energy.

    Street vendors looking for potential customers pursue you with menus as you try to navigate your way through the crowds. They hop in front of you, and you have to dodge them like you are taking part in some sort of assault course.

    Images by Freebird Tracey

    The aroma from camel heads cooking on a spit drifts across the square, and fresh snails being plucked from their shells becomes a familiar sight.

    Although the scene is very intense, it is also magnetic and exciting. I love the energy in Jamaa El Fna after dusk, but some people find it too overwhelming. They prefer to sit at the edge of the square, away from the crowds, and watch everything from a safe distance with a drink.

    Jamaa El Fnaa at dusk is unlike anything else you may have experienced. There is so much to see.There are games being played, and a few little scams are taking place to try and trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around the cafe de France, chatting with each other over coffee. Families wander around the stalls that are brightly lit up and open until late. Young men enjoy kicking a football against the walls of the medina, and couples sit on benches chatting to each other in the warm evening air.

    Sugarcane and fruit juice are sold by lively vendors, and the banter is all done in high spirits. Tourists dine on rooftop terraces as the Koutoubia mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes electrifying.The square is transformed into a social hub where anything is possible and everything appears to take place at the same time. It’s an incredible experience.

    Dazzling bright lights from the open air food vendors and Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets give off a warm, inviting glow. The heady fragrance from incense cones competes with the smell of food cooking, each wafting through the air on a gentle breeze.

    Henna ladies sit waiting for unsuspecting tourists and then grab their arms in an attempt to sell them a tattoo. They tell you,”It’s a gift,” but don’t you dare to walk away without paying once they’ve applied it.

    You can hear the sound of the gnawa musicians playing dressed in their brightly coloured clothing, belly dancers perform, and acrobats show off their skills to the gathering crowd of curious onlookers, you can’t escape the mayhem. After all, the famous Jamaa El Fnaa is the heartbeat of the city, and it draws you in because it’s a special place and there’s nowhere else quite like it.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Jamaa El Fna magnetises you. The chaos that surrounds you is an assault on the senses. It’s an experience, an education, and a head-first dive into the rich culture of Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although there’s so much going on after dusk, please be mindful when stopping to take photos. Someone in the thick of the action will be eagle eyed enough to catch you. They are continuously on the lookout for tourists who have stopped to watch. They will pounce upon you from out of nowhere, with a cap in their hand expecting a donation.

    After sunset, it’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play in Jamaa El Fna, and they are determined to have a good time. It’s a sight to behold, lively, energetic, colourful, aromatic, and incredibly loud. Be sure to visit this remarkable place and witness what it is that makes Marrakech so magical. It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid any obvious scams.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Agafay Desert.

    Take a trip to a vast stony desert near Marrakech.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    We met our tour guide near Jamaa El Fna at 6.00pm and boarded our air-conditioned mini bus.We were a small group of 8 people, and the journey took around 45 minutes.

    Agafay desert is a gravelly desert, composing of stones, rocks, and dunes where some vegetation is able to survive. As we approached our camp, camels sitting with their calfs looked fairly nonplussed at the convoy of tourists descending on their territory.

    As we disembarked, the sound of traditional gnawa music was playing in the distance. Our guide led us to tables that overlooked the vast expanse of desert. The panoramic view laid out before us was absolutely breathtaking.We could see for miles.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Our camp was pretty, with colourful cushions and rugs scattered about and rattan lamps hanging overhead. There was a large Berber tent where you could shelter from the breeze.We  could eat inside the tent or at tables in the open air.

    After settling in with a mint tea, some of the group took a short camel ride. This activity was optional.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Next came a three course meal, including vegetable soup served with traditional Morroccan bread, a delicious tagine, and fruit for dessert. The food was tasty, and the fresh air had given everyone a good appetite.

    We ate our dinner watching the golden sun go down. The skies were a fiery red. It was one of the most beautiful sunsets I had ever seen.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    A group of Morroccan gnawa musicians played around the tables, entertaining us as we finished off our meals. It was a lot of fun, and everyone was in high spirits.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    As soon as dinner was over, the merriment commenced. Dubious tourists were pulled into a circle and were soon snaking around the campfires attempting Berber dancing. The atmosphere was lively and upbeat. Everyone was  clapping along and enjoying themselves. The stars came out in the clear sky as the campfires roared. By now, the temperature had started to drop, but we felt warm and cosy by the big open fires.

    When the lively display of Berber dancing was over, we all sat down to catch our breath. The camp was full of laughter, and everyone was having a good time.

    The grand finale was next. A spectacular light show in the middle of the desert. Everyone looked on in awe at the amazing pyrotechnic display taking place on a crater in front of us. By now, it was completely dark, and the effects were hypnotising. Watching the flames leap about against the backdrop of the vast dark desert was the highlight of the evening.

    The fire display brought the evening in Agafay desert to a close. It had been an exciting evening. We were escorted back to our vehicles and driven back to Marrakech.

    The excursion to Agafay desert was great value for money, and I would highly recommend it. I booked my trip through Get Your Guide, but your accommodation will also be able to organise the trip for you. There are a few different desert camps to choose from, and some have better facilities than others, so check the reviews before booking. Quad biking is also available if you prefer that instead of a camel ride

    It is also possible to book an overnight stay at Agafay Luxury Camp. The camp offers a swimming pool and luxury accommodation with showers and bathtubs. Details can be found on Booking.com or by  looking online.

    Here are a few things that you may wish to consider if you plan to visit Agafay Desert.

    Take a warm sweater or blanket because evenings drop cooler.

    There are plenty of toilet facilities but take some tissue with you in case there isn’t any. You may also want to take some hand sanitiser.

    Some tours visit an Argan Cooperative on the way to the desert. If you’re interested in purchasing anything, take some cash with you in case they don’t accept card payments.

    The evening tour usually finishes between 9.30-10.00. There may be earlier tours during the winter months.

    Agafay desert was an entertaining way to spend an evening. Now that I’ve had a taste of desert life, I am eager to visit the Sahara.

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  • Ouzoud Waterfall.

    A day trip to North Africa’s second largest waterfall.  

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Ouzoud Falls is the collective name for several waterfalls in the province of Azilal.

    The waterfall is the second largest in Africa, and it is well worth the three hour drive through the stunning Atlas Mountains to see it.

    I met my driver at Cafe de France, and after picking up a few more passengers, we were on our way. The mini bus had air conditioning and comfortable seating.

    We drove for approximately one and a half hours, then stopped for a toilet break. There was a small women’s cooperative selling Argan oil for people who were interested.

    Soon, we were on our way again, and the views of the Atlas Mountains were simply breathtaking. It was a really scenic drive, helping the time pass quickly.

    When we arrived at Ouzoud, we were introduced to our guide and immediately set off walking. We rambled through the olive groves, and the cheeky Barbary macaque monkeys played hide and seek in the trees with us.

    The waterfall is visible from different angles with plenty of viewing points. It plunges 110 metres into the canyon below, and the red sandstone cliffs are a picturesque contrast against the lush green vegetation.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The hike around the waterfall is moderately strenuous, and their are occasional places to purchase fruit juice and take a rest. It was hot,and I was grateful for the chance to stop and recuperate for a while.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    A boat ride is part of the itinerary if you book a tour. The boats are vibrantly decorated and take to the water beneath the falls for a really close-up shot. It was an amazing experience. The feeling of the cool water spraying my face was a welcome relief from the heat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Once the boat drops you off on the opposite side, it’s quite a steep climb up to get to the restaurants. I was lucky enough to get a table that overlooked the waterfall, and the view was incredible.

    I ate a three course meal that included a small salad with bread and olives, followed by a tagine and fruit for dessert. It was pleasant looking down on the boats and seeing people having fun in the water whilst eating my lunch.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The meal cost around 150 dirhams. It was nothing spectacular, just a simple lunch in the most gorgeous of settings, but the portion was adequate.

    After lunch, I walked further up a steep incline,where a lot more monkeys were gathered waiting for tourists to feed them. I fed a few of them with some food given to me by our guide.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The final part of the walk took me past a few souvenir stalls and a shop selling drinks and ice cream. Eventually, I made it back to the car park where the journey began.

    The group was reunited with the driver, and then it was time to set off back to Marrakech. We stopped again for a toilet break midway through the journey, and it was early evening when I arrived back at the main square.

    In my opinion, the trip to Ouzoud was definitely worth the six hours of travelling.

    The highlight for me was sitting above the waterfall  eating my lunch and looking at the spectacular view. The monkeys were also very amusing.

    There is a fair amount of walking in the heat, and some of it is steep, but I was able to take my time, and the guide was really patient and kind. The walk was worth every moment to see the waterfall from all its vantage points.

    Some people in the group who were struggling went up on Donkeys, so that’s an option if you have limited mobility.

    I booked my trip with Get Your Guide and found it good value for money for such a great day out. It included the journey in an air-conditioned vehicle, the tour, and the boat ride. The lunch was separate. Your accommodation can also organise a trip to Ouzoud for you.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    tracey.wright1963@googlemail.com
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  • Monriad.

    A peaceful riad in the heart of the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The first time I visited Marrakech, I stayed at Monriad. This is where my love affair with Marrakech began.

    Staying in a traditional riad had been a passion of mine for a long time, but I had no idea what to expect. The experience exceeded all of my expectations. Since then, I have never stayed in any other type of accommodation in Marrakech.

    Monriad was delightful. The courtyard was very peaceful, with the sound of gently trickling water and desert sparrows singing. It was blissful. After a long flight and queues at the airport, I began to relax straight away.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The owner greeted me with a friendly smile and offered me mint tea with olives. She  gave me a map of the medina and showed me around the riad. I was offered the opportunity to have my evening meal in the riad, but I was eager to get out and explore the souks.

    I returned later to spend time on the rooftop terrace. The rooftop was lovely with flora and fauna in attractive pots, sunbeds, and colourful seating. Watching the sunrise  every morning was a lovely way to begin each day. The views were incredible.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
    Captured by Freebird Tracey.

    My room in the  riad was spotlessly clean. It was colourfully furnished with handmade Morroccan furniture. I had a private bathroom with a decent shower and a pretty ceramic basin. The whole riad smelt of orange blossom, a fragrance I now associate with Marrakech.

    There was an intricately carved wooden door to enter the riad. I wasn’t given my own set of keys, but it was never a problem. The staff were always available to answer the door.

    I ate dinner once inside the riad, and the food was good. I had tagine in the peaceful courtyard. The breakfast was typically Moroccan and a hearty start to the day.

    Monriad is tucked away down a quiet little street in a safe area of the medina. Several cats and kittens have also made the surrounding streets their home. This is something you will notice a lot in Marrakech.

    There are plenty of shops and restaurants like the popular jazz bar La Bistro Arabe and Dardar rooftop Restaurant a short distance away. The vegetarian restaurant La Famille is a two minute walk from the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Monriad is close to Jamaa El Fna and points of interest, such as Bahia Palace and Tinsmiths Square. Despite this, it feels peaceful and secluded. Monriad is considered a mid price riad but has still maintained its original charm. The riad has a welcoming atmosphere, and the staff are warm and friendly.

    My mission is to stay in as many different riads as possible in Marrakesh. However, I would definitely consider staying here again. The location is unbeatable, especially for solo female travellers.

    The address for Monriad is, N. 4 Derb Lahbasse, RiadZitoun Lakdim, Marrakech 40000 Morocco.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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