Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech In North Africa

  • Zeitoune Cafe.

    Zeitoune Cafe has a perfect rooftop view across Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The view from the balcony of Zeitoune cafe overlooks the busy main square.

    It’s fun watching daily life take place from above all the action whilst having a spot of lunch.

    You can hear the drumming and gnawa music from what is considered the heartbeat of the city as you relax, away from the crowds of tourists.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    The food here is incredibly good, portions are large, and there are a variety of choices on the menu.

    The smoothies were gorgeous.

    I enjoyed a hearty salad for lunch and decided to try a strawberry smoothie.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Also, the obligatory olives, which often come with a meal in Marrakech, were very welcome.

    The lamb tagine with dried fruits is a  popular choice amongst diners here.

    However, if like myself you don’t eat meat, there are vegetarian and vegan options available.

    The breakfast is excellent  with a selection of refreshing juices and good coffee.

    Meals are competitively priced considering the quality of food served and the location overlooking the main square.

    Zeitoune Cafe is in a strategic location.

    It gets busy before sunset as tourists flock to watch the sun setting over the Jamaa El Fna.

    Finding a table during this time of evening might be difficult.

    Zeitoune Cafe is open all day from 9.00 am until 1.00 am, with the exception of Friday and Saturday when they close at 2.00am.

    They do not accept reservations, so it’s first come, first served.

    There are steps up to the balcony and upper floors, but for people with limited mobility, there is outdoor seating available.

    Zeitoune Cafes’ address is,

    107 Place Jamaa El Fnaa

    40000 Morocco

    There is also a Zeitoune Cafe in the kasbah.

    The outside seating is a wonderful place to people watch in the sunshine.

    It is located opposite the mosque.

    Zeitoune Cafe accepts credit card payments, too.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Shopping In The Souks.

    The bustling souks in Marrakech are exciting.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is everything that you could possibly dream of buying in the wonderful souks of Marrakech.

    As you meander through the maze of colourful alleyways, be prepared for a complete assault on the senses.

    From beautiful jewellery to exotic spices, leather shoes and bags, to Morroccan lamps and ceramics.

    It’s all here crammed into narrow alleyways and calling out to be bought and taken back home with you.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The skilled craftsmanship is astonishing, and you can find areas dedicated to making and selling different things.

    There is a separate place for leather goods, a place where metal workers make  beautiful Moroccan lamps and metal sculptures.

    An area where wooden things are handmade and rug weaving is demonstrated.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s a lovely experience watching the locals make their goods to sell, and there is also the opportunity to have a go at making things yourself, such as a pair of babouche shoes.

    Berber rugs hang proudly around the medina. Each colour and pattern is a feast for the eyes.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Argan oil and morroccan black soap, orange blossom oil, and gardenia float on the gentle breeze.

    The smell is so fragrant in the souks.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Wooden boxes ornately decorated with mother of pearl, chess sets, and traditional toys tempt you for the perfect souvenir to take back for your family and friends.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The soft furnishings such as cushion covers made from cactus silk are eye-catching and colourful.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Then there’s the nuts, sweets, and pastries for sale.

    Moroccan sweets are a delicacy, and you’ll find yourself spoilt for choice.

    The medicinal herbs and spices are a cacophony of colours and fragrances.

    Fresh olives with a hint of spice pop with colour.

    Paintings and prints of traditional Morroccan doors, Amazigh people and camels crossing the Sahara desert.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    For people who love to  shop until they drop like I do, Marrakech is an absolute delight.

    It’s not all fun and laughs, though.

    The souks are incredibly busy with tourists.

    You also have to dodge motorcycles, donkeys, and vendors with carts.

    You can expect to get lost, but that’s all part of the experience.

    No one went into the souks and was never heard from again…

    So, fully immerse yourself in the experience and enjoy every minute.

    It’s unforgettable.

    It will invoke the spirit of camel caravans and ancient trade routes from centuries ago in you.

    A way to fully delve into the wonderful culture of Marrakech.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Here are a few helpful tips to help you enjoy the souks.

    First of all, pace yourself.

    The souks are very busy and can feel slightly chaotic at times, especially in the heat.

    Stop for a drink and rehydrate.

    Rest for a while, and try a spot of lunch on a rooftop cafe. There are plenty inside the souks.

    Be prepared to haggle. It may seem daunting at first, but you’ll soon get the hang of it.

    Stay vigilant, and keep your wits about you.

    Marrakech is a safe city, but pick pocketing can happen just like anywhere else in the world.

    In crowded, narrow streets, keep your possessions safe in a closed bag at the front of your body.

    If you’re lost, look for signs above your head pointing you back to Jamaa El Fna.

    Having an orange sim is useful but may not always work in the denser parts of the souks.

    If you need help, ask a shop vendor. They’re usually more than happy to help you.

    Don’t be tempted to accept directions from locals who may lead you to a friend or family members’ shop so that they can get commission if you buy something.

    You may struggle to get away, and you may find yourself seated and drinking mint tea before you know it.

    Take time to shop around and walk away if you don’t think you’re being offered a fair price.

    You will usually find yourself being called back, and a realistic price can often be reached.

    If not, the same items will most likely be found on sale elsewhere in the souks.

    Exercise patience.

    Remember, this is someone’s livelihood, and it’s a different culture to what you may be used to.

    Wages are not very high for most people in Marrakesh, and tourists with money to spend are fair game for boosting the take-home salary of most vendors.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Although the souks can often feel overwhelming, they are an unforgettable shopping experience.

    You will be dazzled by the number of weird and wonderful items on display.

    The sights, sounds, and smells will stay with you a long time after you leave this fascinating city.

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  • Le Marrakchi Restaurant.

    A popular restaurant with views over the Jamaa El Fna

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Marrakchi restaurant glows a deep red across the square.

    This popular place facing Jamaa El Fna is a fine dining experience in tastefully decorated surroundings situated on,

    52 Rue des Banques, Av.

    Jamaa El Fna

    40000 Morocco

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Inside the restaurant, the feeling is intimate with dim lighting as candles flicker on the tables, giving a warm, cosy glow.

    It’s a busy restaurant  attracting a lot of tourists as it’s one of the few places selling alcohol in the square.

    It’s a family-friendly establishment and has plenty of food choices, including vegetarian and vegan options available.

    The vibe inside the restaurant is very relaxing despite it being a relatively busy place, constantly buzzing with energy.

    Outside, the walls take on a wonderful, red glow, which is very atmospheric and can be seen from across the square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The food is very good.

    I especially enjoyed the tagine that was accompanied by a spicy, Harissa sauce.

    The staff are attentive, friendly, and professional.

    The decor is traditionally Morroccan, with pretty lamps and comfortable, deep red couches along the windows overlooking the main square. There is also intricate tilework on some of the walls

    Le Marrakchi serves cocktails, and you are welcome to just visit for drinks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Prices are competitive for a licenced restaurant close to Jamaa El Fna.

    I went back several times because the vibe was very pleasant, and I enjoyed listening to the sounds of Jamaa El Fna outside the windows and the call to prayer.

    I didn’t feel rushed despite the fact that the restaurant was busy and people were coming and going throughout the evening.

    It was a relaxed, dining experience.

    There is a good selection of dishes on the menu, such as couscous, which is traditionally served on Fridays in Marrakesh.

    The bathroom facilities were excellent and fragrantly scented with orange blossom. .

    There are a few steps to climb to get into the restaurant, so it’s probably not ideal for people with mobility issues.

    Opening hours are 12.00-12.00am daily.

    They also offer a takeaway service.

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  • Atay And Moroccan Pastries.

    Marrakech is known for its delicious sweets and pastries.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Colourful, boho decor and tempting pastries are the perfect way to take a much needed breather from the chaos of the souks.

    Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming at times.

    I realised that taking a break and pacing myself was the best way to thoroughly enjoy the experience.

    Navigating the maze of alleyways in the souks is exciting, and there is so much more to them than beautiful leather goods and Moroccan lamps.

    I especially love the sweets and pastries on offer.

    They are absolutely delicious and compliment the taste of traditional mint tea known as atay perfectly.

    There are so many pastries to choose from, and I decided to treat myself to a selection to see which my favourites are.

    The tea is very hydrating, and I especially enjoyed the taste of the almond pastries most of all.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If you are shopping for gifts  in the souks, I would highly recommend that you take some time out to rest and pace yourself.

    Sitting outside a cute little tea shop selling something nice and light like a few Moroccan pastries is perfect.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    It’s a good way to engage in the culture of Marrakech by observing everything going on around you.

    Watching vendors calling out to tourists and bargaining the price of their wares is fun.

    Friendly waiters buzz around serving their customers with a big smile.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are plenty of places in the medina offering mint tea, traditional sweets, and pastries.

    The sweets are an absolute treat, but you will be spoilt for choice.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Part of the pleasure of exploring the medina is finding hidden gems.

    Places where you can sit and gather yourself before venturing back out into the crowds of tourists.

    Marrakech has an abundant supply of delicious sweets and pastries.

    They’re a light snack that won’t spoil your appetite for lunch or dinner.

    A few suggestions of places to try are,

    . Medina Kawa Marrakech.

    . La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices

    . Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.

    Check out my separate article about traditional Morroccan mint tea.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riad Blue Berber

    A 17th-century riad in a great location.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Blue Berber is an authentic traditional riad in a strategic location.

    It is close to the Bahia Palace, Dardar, La Pegola, Tinsmiths Square, and plenty of shops.

    It is situated on a popular side of the medina that is lively and central to many popular sightseeing spots.

    Riad Blue Berber has a very pretty courtyard, and the rooms are authentic.

    There is a more intimate feel about this riad because it’s slightly smaller.

    The owner, Habi, is a very knowledgeable man who enjoys a chat with his guests. He is very hospitable, and the riad has a very homely feel about it.

    Mona, the cook doesn’t speak English, but every morning, she prepares a big, hearty breakfast for the guests.

    She still manages to interact well despite the language barrier.

    The riad can organise tours and cooking classes are available to teach you how to create a traditional tagine.

    The rooftop is large with different tiers and was being modernised during my stay.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The views across the medina are excellent, and waking up to the sound of birds chirping in the courtyard below was a lovely way to begin the day.

    I always felt safe walking to and from Riad Blue Berber even at night time.

    The area feels very safe with plenty going on.

    This is a bonus, especially for solo female travellers.

    The traditional 17th century tiles on the floor of the courtyard give Riad Blue Berber character and charm.

    There are four rooms, three of the rooms have air conditioning, and the other two have fans and heaters.

    It is approximately only 200 metres away from Jamaa El Fna, yet once inside, it is peaceful and calm.

    The address is;

    5 Derb Jdid, Riad Zitoun Lakdim, kadim، 40040, Morocco.

    Staff at the riad will happily look after your luggage after checkout time.

    It’s small personal details like this that make staying in a place extra special.

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  • L’Mdina  Restaurant.

    A great place serving authentic, quality food near the Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There’s a lively atmosphere with live music playing most evenings as you dine.

    L’Mdina has an interesting menu and includes a good variety of options.

    You can get a traditional tangia, which is  tender meat, cooked for hours in an earthenware pot, called a tangia.

    A tangia is often left to cook in the embers of the local hammam and collected later in the day.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The lamb is cooked to perfection, succulent, and tender.

    The fragrant aroma as it is tipped from the tangia onto the plate is mouthwatering.

    The salads are also delicious and creative, combining an interesting infusion of delicious flavours.

    I especially enjoyed the vegetable tagine, with root vegetables and chickpeas.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    L’Mdina is a restaurant serving Moroccan, Mediterranean, and international dishes with a traditional gastronomic touch.

    It is located about 2 minutes from the square.

    They also welcome people who simply want a coffee or just a drink at the bar whilst listening to some live music.

    The menu is suitable for vegetarians with vegan options also available.

    The restaurant seats 60 people and is beautifully decorated with an authentic Moroccan theme.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The musicians played a mix of traditional Morroccan and Latin American music.

    They entertain the diners without being too loud, so it is still possible to engage in conversation.

    It is a perfect setting.

    A combination of good food, a nice relaxed ambience, as well as being budget friendly.

    L’Mdina was busy, but I didn’t have to wait long.

    I was happy to be seated outside on a nice, warm evening.

    I was content experiencing the vibe of the restaurant mixed with the magic of the medina during evening time.

    L’Mdina is close enough to the main square for a break from the hustle and bustle, whilst still feeling a part of it. 

    It’s a place to go for an hour or so to recharge your batteries.

    There is a set menu at lunchtime for 85 dirhams, and it’s worth every penny.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    If you want a tasty meal, which is reasonably priced with some entertainment, I recommend giving L’mdina a try.

    The restaurant’s address is;

    42 rue des banque

    Marrakech 40000

    L’Mdina opens at 12 midday and closes at 23.00

    They accept card payments.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    For more information about places to eat, contact me via the email address below;

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  • Riad Jardin Lea.

    A comfortable riad with friendly staff.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Lea is a traditional mid priced riad only 10 minutes walk away from the main square.

    There are 5 suites, and they are authentically Moroccan and comfortable with all the amenities available for a pleasant stay in the medina.

    The courtyard is peaceful with the sound of birds singing as you sit having breakfast in the morning.

    It’s a quiet, relaxing setting away from the busy touristy area, yet only a short walk away from all the action.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is a great place for a spot of sunbathing, and there is also a jacuzzi, which is clean and well looked after.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff at Riad Lea are friendly and attentive.

    They even offered me some of their food whilst they were breaking their fast during Ramadan.

    It’s these little gestures that make a traditional riad such a charming place to stay.

    There are more modern luxury riads than riad Lea, but it’s the personal touches that stand out for me.

    The staff at Riad Lea made sure that their guests felt comfortable and happy.

    There was a nice, calm atmosphere in the riad, and everyone seemed to be happy.

    Reaching the riad was like heading down a hobbit hole through the narrow winding alleyway.

    The doorway was not made for tall people, but once you got used to it, you soon remembered to duck.

    This is typical of most riads in the medina and part of their charm.

    The breakfast at Riad Lea was a typical Morroccan breakfast, a mixture of sweet and savoury food.

    I loved their homemade yoghurt and msemen pancakes.

    The walk to the main square is enjoyable, passing by lots of interesting little shops and restaurants along the way.

    I enjoyed my stay at Riad Lea. It’s not a fancy 5 star accommodation, but it’s good value for money.

    It was clean and comfortable, and the staff were a credit to the riad.

    Riad Lea can be found at,

    41 Derb Sidi Bou

    Amar Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riad Laila.

    A luxury riad on the outskirts of the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is a stunning riad with the most beautiful courtyard.

    It is larger than most riads, and the pretty garden is full of exotic plants, mandarin trees, and hibiscus.

    There is a large swimming pool for guests to enjoy.

    The rooms are tastefully furnished, modern, and luxurious.

    Riad Laila was recently  renovated and refurbished.

    The rooftop is very pretty and a great spot for sunbathing or relaxing with a refreshing mint tea looking at the views over the medina.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is the perfect riad for people who are looking for a luxurious spa like  experience in Marrakech.

    The staff exude professionalism and wear uniforms.

    They keep a keen eye on the guests, and the place is run with an air of precision.

    Everything is spotlessly clean. It’s a place where you can spend ages just relaxing by the pool in peace and tranquillity reading a book.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is a high-end accommodation at the most northern side of the medina.

    It is close to the bus station and around a 25-minute walk from the centre.

    The Jardin Majorelle is a short walk away.

    Raid Laila was lovely for a couple of days, but I did miss the charm of a traditional family run riad inside the medina.

    It all depends on what kind of experience you’re looking for.

    If it’s a complete, restorative setting in beautiful surroundings, Riad Laila is ideal.

    There is food served at the riad, but the vegetarian options appeared to be limited at the time I stayed there.

    My overall impression was that everything felt slightly clinical and lacked the laid-back, homely feel that Marrakech is known for.

    However, if you’re looking for a complete break away from the excitement and sensory overload of the medina, Riad Laila is a good choice of accommodation.

    It is visually appealing and has one of the nicest gardens boasting 840m2.

    They have a resident tortoise called Laila who loves you to feed her hibiscus flowers.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The surrounding streets are very quiet, so I preferred taking a taxi to the main square in the evening.

    It’s a long walk in the heat also, but taxis are readily available.

    Riad Laila is at,

    104 Diour Jdad

    Zaouia Abbassia

    Marrakech 40000.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Le Salama Restaurant.

    A popular rooftop restaurant with traditional entertainment.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Salama is a modern restaurant with a lively atmosphere.

    The restaurant has a nice rooftop area that gets very busy and is extremely popular with tourists.

    I would recommend booking in advance for a table there as it fills up very early.

    The decor of the restaurant is traditionally Morroccan with an al fresco vibe.

    There are beautiful plants throughout the interior, and it feels like you are sitting outside in nature.

    There are two bars serving a range of alcoholic beverages and non alcoholic drinks.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I had eaten earlier, so I chose a plate of delicious Morroccan pastries with a cold glass of Casablanca beer.

    Other diners were enjoying a variety of excellent dishes from the menu, which looked very appealing.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    At 9.00pm each evening, the entertainment begins.

    Belly dancers dance around the tables, encouraging the diners to participate.

    It was fun to watch, and everyone in the restaurant appeared to be having a good time.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    I have to admit that the service was slightly slow. However, it was Ramadan, so exceptions have to be made during this month.

    I was by myself as a solo female traveller, and I didn’t feel conspicuous at all.

    The waiters were polite and helpful, and it didn’t seem to be a problem that I only ordered a dessert and one drink.

    I wasn’t pressured to leave, and I spent time enjoying the live entertainment.

    Le Salama is steps away from Jamaa El Fna.

    It’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat and recharge your batteries before stepping back out into the crowds of tourists in the busy main square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Salama can be found on,

    40 rue des banques, and it’s open until 2.00 am

    They serve a good range of cocktails and are open for lunch and dinner.

    They also have a children’s menu.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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  • Riad Dombaraka

    A peaceful oasis on the edge of the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Dombaraka has a beautiful courtyard with a small pool for guests to cool down in.

    The plants are green and lush, and listening to the birds singing amongst the foliage is a blissful experience.

    Every inch of riad Dombaraka is tastefully decorated with beautiful paintings and elegant furniture.

    It feels as though you are staying in a royal palace.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooms are large and decorated with interesting African artefacts, and the bed was really comfortable.

    The rooftop is spacious with great views across the rooftops of the city.

    It’s great for sunbathing with plenty of spaces to sit and sunbeds for soaking up some of the hot, morroccan sun.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There is a wonderful library with an assortment of books for guests to read, and it’s furnished with tasteful Moroccan furniture.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The riad is kept spotlessly clean, and the staff are very friendly.

    They appear happy to be a part of this wonderfully peaceful environment.

    Riad Dombaraka is owned by a French woman called Dominique, who gives her guests the warmest welcome when they arrive.

    She suggests nice places to eat and visit and orders tuktuks to take you through the souks.

    The riad is a hidden gem, located down a few winding alleyways.

    There are locals selling vegetables and fish, giving a true picture of morroccan life, but I always felt safe.

    There is evidence of the 2023 earthquake that took place in Marrakech and work going on to restore the area to its former glory.

    The breakfast at Riad Dombaraka was lovely.

    It consisted of traditional Morroccan food, including msemen pancakes, eggs, fresh fruit, and yoghurt. 

    There was plenty of variety, and it was very filling.

    The coffee was real coffee and gave me the boost I need to motivate me in the morning.

    Riad Dombaraka is not considered to be budget accommodation, but it is definitely good value for money.

    It is an elegant riad, quite luxurious, yet maintains its traditional character and charm.

    Guests are offered  gratuitous fresh water and regularly asked if they would like a pot of mint tea.

    Relaxing by the pool, listening to the sound of music playing in the background and birds singing, you would never know the craziness of the Souks are literally a stones throw away outside the door.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Behind the door of riad Dombaraka, the scene is serene and tranquil.

    I highly recommend Riad Dombaraka.

    It’s far enough from the stimulating Jamaa El Fna, yet everything is within easy walking distance.

    The address is,

    47.Derb El Qadi medina. Medina Azbezt 40030

    Image by Freebird Tracey.
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