The Sound Of The Souks

Exploring The Red City Of Marrakech.

by Freebird Tracey.

  • Riad Bohemian Jungle.

    A riad conjuring up Tales of Arabian Nights.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The Bohemian Jungle is a beautifully choreographed riad, close to the spice square in Marrakech. Straight out of a tale from Arabian Nights, the Bohemian Jungle exudes charm and authenticity.

    The interior is captivating, with several nooks and crannies to sit taking in its splendour. The little pool in the centre of the courtyard is ideal for cooling off in. The green zellige tiles and exotic plants are attractive focal points of the riad.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is decadent.  There are pretty pink flowers, which drape over the wall into the courtyard below. Plants and moroccan lamps are carefully situated amongst colourful seating areas. There’s a balinese bed and a cerise boudoir area, where staff play traditional tuareg music for their guests.

    There are areas to sit in the shade and relax with a book. Perfect for when the hot African sun reaches its  highest temperature in the day. The riad lives up to its name. It certainly is a jungle.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The riad is managed by young men from the Sahara desert, and they enjoy sharing their fascinating Amazigh culture with guests.

    The breakfasts vary each day. They consist of traditional pancakes, fresh bread, fruit, yoghurt, and eggs.

    When you arrive at the riad, you are treated to the complimentary mint tea and biscuits.You are given useful advice and a map to help you navigate the souks.This is helpful for finding your way back to the riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The fragrance inside the riad is intoxicating. Orange blossom and cinnamon oil float on the air throughout the day. In the evening, the lamps glow, and traditional music plays quietly in the background. I never wanted to go out. I was happy sitting in the riad, experiencing the captivating surroundings.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Bohemian Jungle gets booked up quickly, and it’s easy to see why.

    If you are looking for TVs or a modern contemporary style of accommodation, you won’t find it here. This is an eclectic, boho environment that lives up to its name. Riad Bohemian Jungle is all about experiencing true, authentic riad culture. Lost in time with the distant echos of camel traders and a strong spirit of the past.

    It is close to the Madrasa Ben Youssef, Marrakech museum, and the Spice square. The vegetable market is near the Bohemian Jungle, and there are plenty of popular restaurants in the vicinity.

    The address is, Derb al Maada Hay azbezte 39 Medina, Medina 40030 Marrakech, Morrocco.

    Excursions to the Sahara desert and other popular places of interest can be arranged by this riad. They are good value for money and well organised.

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  • Riad Blue Berber

    An authentic 17th-century riad.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Blue Berber is an authentic riad in a strategic location. It is close to the Bahia Palace, Dardar rooftop bar, La Pegola, and Tinsmiths Square. It is situated on a quieter side of the medina central to many popular sightseeing spots.

    Riad Blue Berber has a very pretty courtyard. The floor is the original floor dating back to the 17th century. There is an intimate feel about this riad because it’s smaller. The rooms are quite dark inside, but that adds to its authenticity.

    The owner, Habi, is a very knowledgeable man who enjoys chatting with his guests. He is very hospitable, and the riad has a homely family feel about it.

    Mona, the cook doesn’t speak English, but she prepares a hearty breakfast for the guests each morning. She manages to interact well despite the language barrier.

    The rooftop is large with different tiers and great views over the medina. It was being modernised during my stay.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Blue Berber is a cosy riad that has character and charm. Waking up to the sound of birds chirping in the courtyard was a lovely way to begin each day.

    There are four rooms. Three of the rooms have air conditioning, and the other two have fans and heaters. The riad is clean and humble, offering an authentic experience of riad life.

    I liked this side of the medina. I always felt safe walking to and from the riad even at night time. There’s always plenty going on. It’s perfect for solo female travellers. It is located 200 metres from the lively Jamaa El Fna, yet inside, it is peaceful and calm.

    The address is 5 Derb Jdid, Riad Zitoun Lakdim, kadim، 40040 Morocco.

    The riad can organise tours and cooking classes are available to teach you how to create a traditional tagine.

    I had a pleasant time at Riad Blue Berber. It’s a traditional riad, and I liked the location. The staff were happy to look after my luggage after I had checked out. It’s small details like this that make staying somewhere extra special.

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  • Riad Laila.

    A luxurious riad on the outskirts of the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila has a beautiful courtyard garden full of exotic plants, mandarin trees, and hibiscus. It is larger than most of the other courtyards and has a large swimming pool for guests to enjoy. The rooms are tastefully furnished with modern contemporary pieces and generous sized bathrooms. Riad Laila has recently been renovated and refurbished, and I would consider it a luxury riad.

    The rooftop is spacious. It is a great spot for sunbathing or relaxing with a mint tea looking at the views over the medina. There is a Bedoin tent and plenty of seating areas.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is a perfect riad for people looking for a spa like  experience in Marrakech. Staff wear uniforms and  keep a keen eye on the guests. The place is run with an air of precision.

    Everything is spotlessly clean. It’s a place where you can spend ages relaxing by the pool in peace reading a book.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is at the most northern side of the medina. It is close to the bus station and a 25-minute walk from the centre. The Jardin Majorelle is a short walk away.

    Raid Laila was a lovely break from the busy medina for a couple of days. However, I did miss the charm and intimacy of a traditional family run riad. I found the environment slightly clinical. It depends on what kind of experience you prefer. If it’s a restorative setting in beautiful surroundings, Riad Laila is ideal. The garden is exceptional. The regimented presence of staff did take away from the relaxing atmosphere for me.

    Food is served at the riad, but vegetarian options appeared to be limited at the time I stayed there. This may improve in time.

    If you’re looking for a break from the sensory overload of the medina, Riad Laila is a good choice. It is aesthetically pleasing and has one of the largest gardens boasting 840m2. They have a resident tortoise called Laila who loves you to feed her hibiscus flowers.

    The address for Riad Laila is 104 Diour Jdad Zaouia Abbassia Marrakech 40000.

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  • Riad Jardin Lea.

    A riad with a family atmosphere

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Lea is a traditional mid priced riad only 10 minutes walk away from the main square. It is a small cosy riad with a friendly atmosphere.

    There are 5 suites, which are authentically Moroccan. They are comfortable and include all the amenities sufficient for a pleasant stay.

    The courtyard is peaceful with the sound of birds singing. It’s a quiet, relaxed setting away from the busy touristic area. The busy part of the medina is only a short walk away.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is pleasant and has a jacuzzi, which is clean and well maintained.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff at Riad Lea are friendly and attentive. They offered me some food whilst breaking their fast during Ramadan. It’s these little gestures that make staying in a traditional riad charming.

    There are more luxurious riads than riad Lea, but it’s the personal touches that stand out for me. The staff at Riad Lea go out of their way to  ensure guests are happy.

    Reaching riad Lea was like heading down a hobbit hole through the narrow winding alleyway. The doorway was not made for tall people, but you soon remember to duck.

    Dark winding passageways are typical in the medina and part of its charm. Riads are concealed behind red clay walls because in the Islamic faith, everyone is equal, and displaying ones wealth is vulgar.

    The breakfast at Riad Lea was a typical Morroccan breakfast, which is often heavy on carbohydrates. I enjoyed the homemade yoghurt and msemen pancakes.

    The walk to the main square is a pleasant 15 minutes. You pass interesting shops and restaurants along the way.

    I enjoyed my stay at Riad Lea. It’s not 5 stars, but it’s good value for money. It was clean and comfortable, and the staff were a credit to the riad.

    The address is.

    41 Derb Sidi Bou Amar Marrakech 40000.

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  • Kabana Rooftop Bar.

    A lively bar serving alcohol in the medina.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a popular place serving a range of alcoholic beverages, including cocktails. They also offer a wide selection of food with a menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar from the road, and it’s up a flight of stairs. From the outside, it looks rather unassuming.  Inside, it is modern and contemporary attracting all age groups.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    There are traditional straw lanterns hung around the perimeter, giving off a cosy glow. Music videos play on a large screen, and the tempo is lively. They play DJ sets, and it’s a vibrant setting with a relaxed dress code.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a cosmopolitan vibe. You can sit at tables facing the huge bar or outside where most people prefer to hang out. Table service is provided for drinks from the bar. It is not the place for a quiet romantic meal. I imagine it may be difficult chatting intimately amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu. I took my son for his birthday and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection. The staff looked after us well, and the evening was a success.

    Some people have mixed views about the Kabana rooftop bar. They say waiting times are lengthy and thought it was pricey in comparison to other places. It gets very busy, and booking is essential  to guarantee a place. Lunchtime is quieter, and the lunch menu is very good.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    The bathroom at Kabana is rather special. It’s unisex, and the decor is extravagant.

    In summary, the Kabana rooftop bar is an exciting venue. It is typical of somewhere you’d expect to find in Gueliz. There is a spectacular view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, especially at night.It’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol in full view of the Mosque is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    This is a modern cocktail bar with a vibrant energy. It’s within walking distance for people staying in the old city. It’s definitely worth a visit if you want an exciting evening out in the medina selling alcohol. It’s also a nice place for lunch when it’s quieter.

    Kabana rooftop bar is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from 11.00am-2.00am. The address is Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,1 Rue Fatima Zahra,40000 Marrakech Morocco.

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  • Le Marrakchi Restaurant.

    A restaurant with views over Jamaa El Fna

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Le Marrakchi is a popular restaurant facing the main square. It is a fine dining experience in tasteful surroundings. It is situated on 52 Rue des Banques, Av.Jamaa El Fna40000 Morocco

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Inside the restaurant, the atmosphere is intimate. The lighting is dim, and candles flicker on the tables, giving off a warm, cosy glow.

    It’s a busy place attracting a lot of tourists because it’s one of the few places selling alcohol in the square. It is constantly buzzing with energy, but it’s a relaxing experience, and you never feel pressured.

    The decor is traditionally Morroccan,with lamps and deep red couches. There is intricate tilework on the walls, and the windows overlook the main square.

    This is a family-friendly establishment.There is a good selection of dishes on the menu, including couscous, traditionally served on Fridays in Marrakesh. 

    I had vegetable tagine accompanied by a spicy Harissa sauce. The staff were professional, and the service was quick. The food was incredibly tasty.

    It’s impossible to mistake Le Marrakchi. The outside walls take on a wonderful red glow, which can be seen right across the square.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    At Le Marrakchi, you can call in for cocktails, and you are under no obligation to dine there. Prices are competitive for a licenced restaurant close to Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I visited several times. The atmosphere was nice, I really enjoyed hearing the sound of life rising up from the square. The mystical call to prayer added to the ambience.

    I never felt rushed despite the fact that the restaurant was busy. I was able to sit and relax with a margarita.

    The bathroom facilities were excellent and fragrantly scented with orange blossom.

    There are stairs to climb to reach the restaurant. Therefore, it’s probably not ideal for people with mobility issues.However, there is an outside seating area

    Opening hours for Le Marrakchi restaurant are 12.00-12.00 am daily. They also offer a takeaway service.

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  • Cafe Clock.

    A cross-cultural cafe chain in the Kasbah.

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    Cafe Clock is a cultural hub based in Fes, Marrakech, and Chefchouen. It was founded by Mike Richardson when he visited Fes in 2006 and fell in love with the ancient city. It was named after the centuries old water clock situated on the facing wall of the Bou Inania Madrasa.

    Cafe Clock is now a buzzing hub of culture where you can sample its famous camel burgers. This lively space in the Kasbah district was once an old school house. It has since been converted and is renowned for its storytelling and live music events.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Cafe Clock is popular with young Moroccans learning the ancient traditional art of storytelling and travellers who are curious. There is nice energy here, and it’s a great place to come and chill.

    At Cafe Clock, you can take  cookery classes. You will be taken to the local markets to buy fresh ingredients before learning how to make a traditional Morroccan dish.

    The interior of Cafe Clock has been decorated by local artists who have added their own unique touch.Colourful vintage berber cushions and thrifted whimsical finds are displayed around a large open fire place. There is a homely atmosphere at Cafe Clock.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    I visited during December, and it was cold outside. Sitting next to the roaring fire, listening to a live acoustic guitar made me feel warm and cosy.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is good and offers an interesting choice for vegetarians and vegans.I particularly recommend the falafel Super Bowl and vegetable pastilla.

    If you’re travelling around Morocco, Cafe Clock is also extending its empire into other areas like Chefchouen.

    Opening times for Cafe Clock are 9.00 am until 11.00pm daily. The address is 224 Derb Chtouka, Marrakech.

    Cafe Clock is a popular cultural space dedicated to keeping the ancient culture of Marrakech alive. Whether it’s traditional gnawa musicians or the best raconteurs in Marrakech, you can expect an entertaining experience here.

    Cafe Clock is also open for breakfast, with a good variety of choices on the menu.

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  • Palais Dar Donab.

    A restaurant set around a tranquil courtyard.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is a treat for visitors to Marrakech. The scent of orange blossom and the sound of birds in the courtyard give you a sense of stillness. This is one of my favourite places to dine, and I absolutely love it here.

    It’s a place where you can totally unwind and enjoy the sunny courtyard. Tables are positioned around a large pool, and citrus trees line the courtyard. Pretty flowers add an array of colour.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is extensive with food to suit all palates.They also serve a selection of excellent wines and beers.

    I was really impressed with the quality of the food.The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I have tried in Marrakesh. The smoothies were beautifully presented and full of vibrant fruit.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is also a high-end accommodation. Guests and visitors mingle together, enjoying a quiet break from the busy medina.

    The pace is slow and relaxed. The staff are always attentive but allow you to enjoy the peaceful setting without feeling pressured to leave.

    The gentle sound of leaves on the trees and the trickle of water make dining here a calm experience. Tangerines drop from the trees, and  birds sing happily.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is an excellent setting for a romantic dinner. Music plays subtly in the background, allowing conversation to flow and creating an atmosphere of intimacy.

    Relaxing with a glass of wine, admiring the restaurants fine craftsmanship is a perfect way to recharge your batteries in the  afternoon.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I highly recommend Palais Dar Donab. Not only for the quality of the food or the friendly service, but for the peace and serenity it offers. You come away feeling de-stressed and ready to tackle the overwhelming souks. It’s an oasis in comparison to the over stimulating Jamaa El Fna.

    Opening times are Monday-Sunday 10.00am-10.30pm. The address is 53 Dar el Basha-Bab Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.

    The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit card payments.

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  • Zeitoune Cafe.

    A restaurant on the main square.

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    The view from the balcony of Zeitoune cafe overlooks the busy main square. This is one of the highlights of dining here. It’s fun watching daily life take place from above all the action. You can hear the drumming and gnawa music from the heartbeat of the city.

    Video by Freebird Tracey.

    The food here is good, and portions are large. There are a variety of choices on the menu, including vegetarian and vegan options. I enjoyed a hearty salad for lunch and  a delicious strawberry smoothie.The obligatory olives, which come with a meal in Marrakech, were very welcome.The lamb tagine with dried fruits is a  popular choice amongst diners at this restaurant.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Zeitoune Cafe serves an excellent breakfast with a selection of refreshing juices and good coffee. Meals are competitively priced considering the location overlooking the main square.

    It gets busy at sunset as tourists flock to watch the sun setting behind the Koutoubia mosque. Getting a table at  this time of evening may be difficult.They do not accept reservations, so it’s first come, first served.

    Zeitoune Cafe is open all day from 9.00 am until 1.00 am, with the exception of Friday and Saturday when they close at 2.00am.

    There are steps up to the balcony and upper floors, but for people with limited mobility, outdoor seating is available.

    Zeitoune Cafes’ address is 107 Place Jamaa El Fnaa 40000 Morocco.

    There is also a Zeitoune Cafe in the kasbah. The colourful outside seating is a good place to people watch in the sunshine.It is located opposite the mosque.

    Zeitoune Cafe accepts credit card payments, too.

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  • Malah Cafe Restaurant.

    A budget friendly restaurant in the Mellah.

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    Melah Cafe restaurant is located in Place des Ferblantiers, otherwise known as Tinsmiths Square.

    It is in the oldest Jewish quarter of the city towards the south of Jamaa, El Fna. This is the area where  artisans make things out of copper and tinplate, using skills passed down from generation to generation. There are shops selling traditional daggers, jewellery, tea trays, incense burners, and lamps.

    Melah Cafe restaurant is one of the many places to stop for a drink or a bite to eat. The food served here is traditional morroccan and international cuisine. I had a panini and fries with a smoothie. It was much cheaper in comparison to the main square. The portion was large, and the food was tasty.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    There is plenty to see around Mallah Cafe restaurant. Shaded under a large umbrella, I watched stray cats wandering to and fro across the square. Occasionally, there are events taking place here. The area is also pedestrianised.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    I enjoy spending time in Tinsmiths Square. It’s not as busy as other places around the medina. Finding an outdoor place to eat where I can watch things going on is a bonus. Malah Cafe restaurant is budget friendly too, which is another plus.

    There is a good selection on the menu at Malah Cafe restaurant. They also serve food suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Opening times are 8.30am until 11.00pm.The address is 23 Place des Ferblantiers

    The Mellah is home to a huge selection of herbs and spices. Don’t forget to check them out whilst visiting Tinsmiths Square.

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