Riad Persephone is a large riad located very close to the Jamaa El Fna.
It has a pretty courtyard with lots of beautiful plants everywhere and a large swimming pool.
The colour of the walls is painted in a lovely cobalt blue like that of Jardin Marjorelle and works really well against the lush green foliage and tiled flooring.
The rooftop is large with plenty of seating and a warm jacuzzi for guests to use.
Lit up in the evening, the rooftop looks incredibly pretty.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
The square is visible from the rooftop, and you can hear the lively sounds of everything going on until late at night.
I chose a room on the rooftop. It was exceptionally pretty and decorated in a beautiful Saffron colour.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
For some people, the close proximity to the main square may be perfect.
If you’re a light sleeper, you may find the early morning call to pray rather loud, and the noise from the busy square may be a bit problematic late at night.
The sound of the food stalls being dismantled can be heard until the early hours of the morning.
I would recommend taking ear plugs.
Riad Persephone has a rustic charm, and some areas are a little bit tired and in need of a face-lift.
However, if you prefer a traditional style of riad, this is what you will get but at a high-end price.
This is largely due to its strategic location and the view of Jamaa El Fnaa from the rooftop.
The riad offers activities for guests, such as quad biking and a visit to Agafay desert.
There is also a hammam.
Riad Persephone is situated close to some popular restaurants, including Le Salama and L’Mdina.
It is a vibrant and colourful riad with cosy little nooks to sit and relax in.
Images by Freebird Tracey
If you’re looking for a traditional riad with pretty surroundings, Riad Persephone is a good choice of accommodation.
It all depends on whether you want to be overlooking the action in the main square or not.
For many people, this is a bonus.
Other people may prefer a quieter, relaxing atmosphere on the rooftop listening to the sound of nature.
Overall, Riad Persephone is aesthetically pretty and very comfortable.
Be mindful. There are a lot of steps up to the rooftop, so people with mobility issues may struggle.
Berber rugs are handmade by the indigenous Amazigh people of Morocco.
They are made from the wool of sheep in the high Atlas Mountains.
Each type of rug tends to vary in thickness, and the pattern also differs depending on which tribe or village has made it.
For example, Kilim Berber rugs have no pile and are relatively fine in texture.
They are handcrafted using techniques passed down through generations using natural materials renowned for their durability and luxurious feel.
Hand-knotting is a long and laborious process.
To create a single rug takes about one to two months, with four weavers working on a rug at a time.
There are several steps that go into making a beautiful Berber rug..
1. Shearing the Sheep
Shearing the sheep is the first step in making a Berber rug. This is done by hand, using a special shearing knife.
The sheep are first restrained, and then the knife is used to remove the wool from their body in one long strip.
The wool is then sorted and cleaned.
It is usually the job of the men to shear the sheep, taking care not to injure them or spread infection.
The women are responsible for washing the sheared wool.
2. Carding.
Carding is the process of aligning the wool fibers so the weavers can spin them into yarn. To card the wool, the fibres are first combed in one direction, and then the wool is brushed in the opposite direction.
This helps to loosen the fibers and align them in the same direction.
Once the fibers are aligned, the weavers can then spin them into yarn. Carding is an essential step in making a Berber rug, as it helps to ensure that the rug is strong and durable.
The process of carding also helps to give the rug its unique texture.
The women are often responsible for this process.
3. Spinning the wool into yarn.
To spin the wool into yarn, Amazigh women use something called a drop spindle.
This simple tool consists of a shaft with a weight at the bottom.
The wool is attached to the shaft, and then the shaft is twirled between the women’s hands.
As the shaft is twirled, the wool is wrapped around it, creating the yarn.
4. Weaving the rug.
The weavers use a technique called continuous knotting to create intricate patterns.
This method of knotting allows the weaver to create a rug that is incredibly durable and will last for many years. The process begins with the weaver tying knots in the woollen yarn.
The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes from plants, spices, and fruits, which give the rugs their characteristic colours.
Once the yarn is dyed, the weaver begins weaving it into a rug using a loom.
The loom is a wooden frame that the weaver uses to create the rug’s design. The weaver ties the yarn around the looms warp threads, which are the vertical threads that run through the loom.
The weaver then weaves the weft threads, which are the horizontal threads, over and under the warp threads.
The weaver can create various patterns by changing the direction of the weft threads.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Once the rug is complete, the weaver cuts the rug from the loom and ties the ends of the rug together. The rug is then completed.
Making a Berber rug is a long, laborious task, and the women of the village who weave them rarely get anything near the price they’re sold for.
Husbands load them onto the back of a donkey and take them to a buyer who gives him a fraction of their value.
Berber rugs are beautiful and give a home a wonderful boho vibe.
They are hard-wearing and last a lifetime.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
It’s important when visiting Marrakech to make sure you’re purchasing a genuine Berber rug.
There are a few scams, so be mindful before you get whisked away to a shop by a friendly local, promising you the best quality and prices.
Les Nomads de Marrakech has a great reputation and can ship rugs back home for you.
The first settlers were Berber farmers who had lived on the land since neolithic times.
Morocco took its name from Marrakech.
The Amazigh people named the country Murakush, meaning the Western kingdom. Later Arab conquerors adapted the name to Morocco.
During the 11th and 12th centuries, the Almoravids were the rulers of Marrakech, founded by Abu Bakr Ibn Umar in 1070.
They constructed an underground water system to supply water to the city canals, which attracted merchants and craftsmen to Marrakech.
They began building riads for the people who were beginning to settle in Marrakech, and it became a real city.
His cousin and successor Yuseff Ibn Tashfin developed Marrakech further, turning it into the Almoravid empire.
He erected mud brick houses, which gave the city its distinctive red colour today.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
It was during this period that the Masjid al siquaya mosque was built, and souks or market places sprung up, marking the beginning of urban life in Marrakech.
In the 12th and 13th centuries, the Almohads overthrew the Almoravids and took over the city.
They continued to develop Marrakech even further, painting the walls of the city red and building spectacular palaces and the famous Koutoubia Mosque, which is the largest mosque in Marrakech and a significant landmark.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
They were intellectuals and artists, and many scholars were attracted to the city.
They introduced education and art to the people, turning the city into a political, economical, and cultural centre.
They improved on the water system by building open air canals, allowing water to flow down from the Atlas mountains.
This gave the city dwellers a better quality of life.
The city soon began to prosper under the rule of the Almohads and became a thriving place for merchants to meet and exchange goods.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
In the 13th century, the Merinid Empire took control of Marrakech in 1230 ruling for two centuries.
They built the first madrasa in 1343-9 and used Marrakech as a training ground for heirs to the throne.
Marrakech was the imperial capital of Morocco, but the Merinids much preferred the city of Fez, which resulted in Marrakech going into serious decline.
Fez became the new capital, and Marrakech became the regional capital of the South instead.
Because of this move to Fez, Marrakech was left to decay, becoming impoverished and neglected.
The buildings were left to crumble, and the city that was once a bustling hive of activity began to die.
From 1578-1603, the Saadian Sultans led by Ahmad Al Mansur came to power.
They restored the city to its former glory and established Marrakech as its capital city.
They built the Saadian tombs and El Badi palace, furnishing them with intricate tile work and stucco.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
They launched military campaigns against European invasion, and this period of rule became the golden age of literature and art.
The Saads built Bab Doukkala mosque in 1557-1571 and Mouassine mosque in 1562-72.
They also built the Ben Youssef Madrasa in 1570.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
In 1631, rule was passed from the Saadian dynasty to the Alaouite dynasty, which is still the name of the current Morroccan royal family.
The Alaouites promoted trade with the United States and European countries.
They improved date palm crops and modernised the army.
They also attempted to take control of the Berber and Bedoin tribes.
They restored the riads and buildings in Marrakech, redeveloping it’s infrastructure.
It was in 1911 that the capital of Morocco became Rabat.
Marrakech became a French protectorate in 1912 when the sultan Abd al-Hafid signed the treaty of Fez.
Although the sultan remained the head of state, the French had a huge influence in developing strong diplomatic and economic relations in trade and tourism.
The French began modernising the city and building new districts whilst aiming to preserve the traditional character of the city.
They encouraged tourism and exporting Moroccan dates and other produce.
In 1956, Morocco gained its independence when the treaty of Fez was passed back.
Throughout history, Marrakech has been a city that has resurged, declined, and resurged once again.
It has fought against several invasions and endured plagues and famines.
In 1982, UNESCO declared Marrakech a UNESCO world heritage site, raising awareness of the cultural heritage of the city.
It is now one of the most popular destinations in the world and receives millions of tourists each year.
Marrakech combines the ancient with modernity perfectly.
Visitors can get a glimpse into the intriguing past of Marrakech as they wander around the preserved walls of the medina.
As they venture into the tree lined avenues of Mohammed V avenue, they are presented with a newer,modern side of Marrakech, a thriving hub of fancy restaurants, bars and boutiques.
Marrakech has an astonishing history, which makes it all the more fascinating.
It is well worth taking a tour of the historic buildings in the medina to get a taste of the red city’s intriguing past..
Helpful ideas if you want to visit Marrakech on a shoestring.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Visiting Marrakech doesn’t have to break the bank
In fact, Morrocco is a relatively cheap country to visit in comparison to many others.
It’s all about careful planning and putting together the right itinerary for your trip before you go.
I have compiled a few ideas and suggestions to help you enjoy your trip without having to spend a ridiculous amount of cash.
1.
Book your flight early.
The earlier you book, the cheaper it is. Download an airline app and keep an eye on the cost of flights. Book out of season when it’s less busy.
2.
If you book your accommodation directly through the riad or hotel, it is often much cheaper.
3.
Use public transport in Marrakech. The buses are an excellent way to get a taste of local life. They are extremely cheap and reliable. The price is set, and you will avoid being privy to scams from the local taxi drivers.
4.
Marrakech is a bustling metropolis with so much going on around the main square. Consider spending time with a pot of traditional mint tea and observing the spectacle from a rooftop. You won’t be disappointed. The sights, sounds, and smells will keep you entertained for ages.
5.
Visit the wonderful Koutoubia Mosque gardens. The mosque is out of bounds for non Muslims. However, the gardens are absolutely delightful and free to visit. Consider picking up a few delicious snacks such as Baclava cake and a sugar cane juice and sitting in the beautiful garden. Despite its proximity to the chaos of Jamaa El Fna, it is peaceful. It’s especially lovely during the evening when the lights come on.
6.
There are plenty of excellent cafes and restaurants which are great value for money.
Henna Art Cafe is superb and has a very pretty interior( see my separate article about Henna Art Cafe). I have eaten here numerous times and highly recommend the food.
Cafe des Espices is also excellent if you’re prepared to wait for seating. The views are great from the rooftop, and I particularly love their choice of salads.
Street food is another option and very popular amongst tourists. Check how busy places are to get an idea of the quality of food being served.
Consider trying the delicious sweets and pastries for sale inside the souks.
7.
Try a public hammam.
I have a separate post describing what a hammam is, and it’s a must do if you’re visiting Marrakech.
Public baths are very cheap in comparison to the more upmarket ones and the best way to experience the local culture.
You can purchase black soap and other essentials for taking in with you in the souks for pennies.
8.
Visit the souks. This is by far the most exciting part of any trip to Marrakech.
Experience the colour and the lively atmosphere as people haggle with the locals for a bargain.
You may get lost in the maze, but that’s all part of the fun. You will find your way out eventually.
There are souks for many different things, and you will see incredible artisans at work crafting all kinds of things.
9.
Visit the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and see the Bab Mellah spice market. It’s an assault on the senses discovering all the different spices and their fragrances. You may be offered mint tea whilst you are given a lesson on what each spice is used for. It’s very educational, and to purchase a couple of things is fairly cheap.
10.
Walk around the Kasbah. This is where you will experience the more authentic part of Marrakech. There are more locals here and they are very friendly. It’s a way to feel the more authentic side of Marrakech, and there are some nice spots to grab a coffee and people watch.
11.
Visit Cyber Parc, Arsat Moulay Abdeslam. This is a very well maintained place with beautiful native trees and plants. Relax for an hour or so in this peaceful environment away from the chaotic busy medina. Listen to the birds singing and read the interesting facts dotted about here and there.
12.
Take a 25-minute walk or the number 16 bus from the medina to Gueliz. Wonder around the upmarket boutiques and stores on Mohammed V Avenue and see how modernity and ancient coexist in harmony together in Marrakech.
13.
Spend some time in Tinsmiths Square. This is a less touristic square than Jamaa El Fnaa, and there is plenty to see going on. There are budget friendly cafes and restaurants and plenty of souvenir shops.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Marrakech is a walkable city, and you can spend many an hour wandering about discovering what makes Marrakech so magical.
It’s a destination that is great for everyone, including those on a tight budget.
With some careful planning, you can put together an exciting itinerary and have a truly wonderful experience.
A brief history of the indigenous people of North Africa.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
Berbers, also known as Amazigh, are an indigenous group native to North Africa, with a history stretching back thousands of years.
They have lived across a vast region encompassing modern-day Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Mali, and Niger.
The Berbers made a huge contribution to the region’s cultural and technological heritage, including the creation of the Khettara system.
This ancient water management technique involves a network of underground tunnels that channel water from mountain aquifers to arid lands, enabling agriculture in harsh environments.
The Berbers’ innovations in architecture, trade, and agriculture meant they had a self-sufficient community that was thriving long before the arrival of foreign empires. Over the centuries, the Berbers faced numerous challenges, including invasions and exploitation by foreign powers.
During the Ottoman era, slave traders targeted Berber communities, kidnapping many women and throwing their society into chaos.
The Berbers became known for their resistance to foreign domination, with some groups turning to piracy as a form of survival and defiance.
Barbary pirates became infamous for raiding European ships and coastal towns, leading to conflicts with European powers and even the young United States during the Barbary Wars. Despite these challenges, the Berber culture has endured, holding on to its distinct language, customs, and identity through resilience.
The name Berber comes from the word ‘Barbaric’ and is now considered offensive.
The indigenous people have adopted the name Amazigh, which means ‘ free people’
Amizigh is now taught in schools and is officially known as the second language in Morocco, next to Arabic.
It is possible for visitors to Marrakech to take a trip into the Atlas Mountains to observe the ancient customs and lifestyle of the Amazigh.
A stay in a Berber family lodge is an unforgettable experience and a way to really get to know the history of Morrocco.
You will get the chance to eat a home cooked meal with an Amazigh family and see how they live.
This wonderful experience can be booked online or through your riad or hotel on arrival.
There is a lot of beautiful jewellery and rugs made by the Amazigh people for sale in the medina.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Over 90% of the general population of Morocco has indigenous Berber DNA, and Marrakech is one of the most culturally Amazigh cities in Morocco.
To learn more about Amazigh culture, visit the museum of photography or Marrakech museum.
Both places are fascinating and gave me a deeper insight into the history of Amazigh culture.
One thing that is central to Morroccon culture is the Hammam.
A Hammam is similar to a Roman bath and dates back centuries in morrocco.
It was a ritualistic cleansing ritual that people did before prayers, and many Hammams can be found near a mosque.
Before homes had plumbing, a Hammam was a place local people could come to get cleansed.
Seperated by gender, they were a space for people to socialise, relax, and detoxify.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
The treatment always begins in a dry steam room.
Relaxing in the heat opens the pores and prepares the body for the scrubbing.
Morroccan black soap is used to scrub the body.
It is a grainy soap made from olive oil and macerated olives, perfect for exfoliating the dead skin cells.
The scrubbing is quite vigorous, and many tourists are not used to it.
This is followed by buckets of water being thrown over you to wash off the black soap.
Some hammams alternative between buckets of cold water and buckets of hot water.
In more luxurious hammams, Rassoul clay from the Atlas mountains is used to cover the body.
It’s rich in minerals like silica, magnesium, and calcium.
After this procedure, your whole body and hair are lathered thoroughly with a gentler soap or gel.
The next treatment is an all-over massage using fragrant oils like rose oil and argan oil.
Once the treatment is finished, you can relax in a separate area with mint tea and morroccan pastries.
The fragrance of incense wafting around the room adds to the relaxing ambience.
There are two types of Hammam in Marrakesh.
Public or private hammams.
The public Hammam is a true taste of Morroccan life, with many local people bathing together and chatting in their native language.
In a public Hammam, you have to take your own soap, towel, and oils in.
These are much less expensive.
The private Hammams provide you with everything you need, including disposable underwear, a bathrobe, and sandles.
Treatment options vary, including the length of the treatment and the type of massage and oils you prefer.
These are more like spa treatments.
You can relax for as long as you want to after the treatment has finished.
It’s worth noting that the underwear for women is very flimsy, and some women ask for male underwear instead.
Nubies can feel slightly vulnerable being exposed with just a disposable thong hiding their modesty.
The rooms are dimly lit, and the women known as Kassalas working in the hammam are very discreet and professional.
Most women get over their initial shyness pretty quickly.
Hammam Mouassine is the oldest Hammam in Marrakesh.
It opened in 1562 and can be found by the Mouassine fountain, close to the secret garden.
Many riads have a Hammam room and offer this service to their guests.
Other popular hammams are,
. Hammam de la rose.
. Mamounia Hamman..
. Les Bains Ziani.
. Les Bains Kenaria.
Palm oil is often used to wash people’s hair, so if you don’t agree with the use of it, make sure to check beforehand.
Experiencing a traditional Hammam is a welcome break from the chaotic souks and Jamaa El Fna.
It’s a relief from the baking heat of the morroccan sun and a chance to slow down the manic pace for an hour or so.
Many tourists feel unsure about wearing virtually nothing in front of strangers, but this is an ancient ritual that has been part of Morroccan culture for centuries.
Visitors to Marrakech have said that they experienced the most invigorating and relaxing time in a hammam and would definitely do it again.
Some tourists are hooked, despite saying it was an unusual experience.
I would recommend paying a little bit more for a private Hammam if it’s your first time.
However, if you want a taste of authentic Marrakechi life, go for a public hammam.
You can buy Morroccan black soap and other toiletries you’ll need inside the souks, or in the spice square.
You can book a Hammam through Get Your Guide or Viator.
Don’t forget a towel, bathrobe and fresh underwear.
Helpful advice for visiting Marrakesh for the first time.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I’ve put together a few useful tips to help your trip run smoothly.
Marrakech is a cash society. Although many cafes and restaurants take cards, cash is often the preferred method of payment.
In the main square called Jamaa El Fna, you will need cash to purchase almost everything.
There are plenty of 🏧 machines located around the city.
I use the one outside the post office where the horse and carriages stand, close to the taxi rank.
The exchange rate is good, and it was usually working.
You can get cash at the airport, but the exchange rate isn’t great.
There are also plenty of places to exchange money around the city.
It’s advisable to carry a small amount of cash with you for tipping, small purchases in the souks, and picking up a bottle of water.
Something you may want to consider if you don’t have cash at the airport is to ask your accommodation to organise a taxi to your hotel or riad in advance.
Most accommodations will do this for you when you book. It’s prepaid, so you won’t have to worry.
You will probably need a SIM card.
I got an Orange SIM in the airport, and they put it into my phone for me.
This saved me any hassle, and I had data from the moment I arrived in Marrakech.
Having data gave me reassurance as a solo female traveller.
I could use Google maps in the medina, which was helpful in case I got lost.
It’s worth noting that Google Maps may not work in some areas of the souks, though.
Tipping is not customery in Marrakesh, but the food and service are usually very good, so it’s nice to be nice.
I generally leave a small tip of approximately 20-30 dirhams.
You can drink the tap water allegedly, but personally, I wouldn’t recommend it.
Some tourists have what’s called a GRAYL water bottle, which takes out the bad stuff, but I haven’t tried one myself.
I preferred to air on the side of caution, plus the water doesn’t taste that good and water purifiers don’t change the taste of the water.
There are plenty of places selling bottled water around the medina, and riads or hotels also sell it.
Non Muslims can’t go inside the Mosques, with the exception of Hassan ll Mosque in Casablanca.
Koutoubia Mosque has the most beautiful gardens, which are well worth a visit. They are open to everyone, and particularly nice in the evening when they’re lit up.
Image Freebird Tracey.
Some tourist attractions get incredibly busy, so try to arrive at opening times for the best experience.
Places like Bacha Coffee can have waiting times for up to 2 hours, so come early and join the queue.
The same applies to Bahia Palace and the Madrasa Ben Youseff.
I found shopping in the souks early in the morning favourable.
It was less crammed with tourists, and I avoided the mid afternoon heat.
Although Marrakech is an Islamic city, it’s fairly relaxed and liberal.
However, out of respect for the culture of your hosting country, it’s appropriate to cover your shoulders when visiting certain religious places.
Aim to dress modestly without exposing too much flesh, and you’ll have a great experience.
I have written a separate post on what to wear when you’re visiting Marrakech.
Marrakech is a dry city. However, there are bars and clubs that cater to Western tourists.
There are a few nice bars selling alcohol and cocktails around the medina, such as Le Pergola and Kabana rooftop bar.
Gueliz and Hivenage have plenty of clubs and bars if you want a night out with alcoholic beverages and entertainment.
Some high-end riads and hotels will also serve alcohol.
It’s forbidden to consume alcohol in the medina unless you’re in a place that is licensed to sell it.
If you get tired of haggling in the souks, there is an artisans market.
The prices are slightly higher but you can simply buy the products without having to bargain for them.
There is also a fixed price store in the Kasbah called Dar Bouchaib.
People in Marrakesh can be quite camera shy.
It’s best not to take photographs unless they specifically say you can.
Be prepared to have to pay for the privilege, too.
Most travellers are discouraged from starting conversations about the King of Morocco.
Try sticking to conversations about the history of Marrakech and Amazigh culture.
The locals will love telling you all about it..
There are a few scams going on in the square, but it’s mainly opportunists trying to make a few dirhams.
I haven’t had any problems myself, but just keep your wits about you and don’t fall prey to anything.
Marrakech is relatively safe, but just like anywhere else in the world, exercise caution with your personal belongings in crowded areas.
Keep your personal items in front of you and don’t carry large amounts of money around.
The Souks close around 9.00 to 10.00 pm, so be careful if you’re walking around after that, especially if you’re a solo female traveller.
I haven’t experienced anything unpleasant, but it can feel rather unnerving in the dark alleyways after dark.
See my separate post about solo female travellers in Marrakech.
I hope some of these nuggets of advice help you to have the best experience in Marrakech.
The first place I go after arriving in the medina is Henna Art Cafe.
It’s the perfect spot to stop and refuel myself after my flight and the long queues at Marrakech Menara airport.
Henna Art Cafe is a place where I can familiarise myself with where I am and check Google maps for the location of my riad.
It’s a quirky place with decent food and the funkiest little bathroom, even if it is a bit of a tight squeeze.
On the first floor, you can get henna tattoos done, and there are plenty of designs to choose from.
All are 100% natural, and the henna ladies are very professional.
I would recommend getting your henna tattoo done in a reputable place like here as opposed to Jamaa El Fna.
Henna Art Cafe has a really relaxing vibe, and I often stop by to enjoy a meal at lunchtime whilst shopping in the medina.
It’s also very reasonable if you’re on a tight budget.
There is a good selection of food on the menu, vegetarian, vegan, and gluten free options are available.
There is free WiFi, and it’s popular with digital nomads.
It’s a friendly place and a good introduction to the medina without being too overly stimulating.
Henna Art Cafe is located in the heart of the medina, just a three minutes stroll down Riad Zeitoun al Kdim from Djemma El Fna.
It is open 7 days a week from 11 to 8.30 PM.
During Ramadan, it closes earlier at 5.30 PM.
I recommend the freshly squeezed lemon juice. It’s tangy and refreshing and packed with vitamin C.
Henna Art Cafe does a nice fragrant tagine, but if you’ve overdosed on tagine or couscous, there are plenty of other interesting options on the menu.
Images by Freebird Tracey.
Payment for your meal is taken downstairs on the way out, and cards are accepted here.
After a nice meal and a rest at Henna Art Cafe, I’m always ready to tackle the challenge of trying to locate my riad.
My battery is recharged, and I have begun to climatise to the change of temperature between my own country and that of North Africa.
Image by Freebird Tracey.
I have a soft spot for this quirky little cafe.
Henna Art Cafe was my first introduction to the medina, and I was eased into the cultural change with my first bowl of harissa soup and traditional Morroccan bread.
I could say this is where my love affair with Marrakech began..
Sounds Of The Souks 