Sounds Of The Souks

Tag: North Africa

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.

  • POTENTIAL SCAMS TO BE AWARE OF WHEN VISITING MARRAKECH.

    Marrakech is a safe place for travellers with a relatively low crime rate.

    However, like any other destination, there are several things to be mindful of.

    There are a few scams which visitors for the first time to Marrakech should know about.

    .The road is closed.

    This is a regular scam that can leave tourists confused.

    You’re trying to locate your riad or a point of interest, and someone (usually a young male) tells you that the road ahead is closed.

    He asks you your destination and offers to escort you via an alternative route.

    Before you know it, you’re wandering endlessly through the souks until you arrive at his friends shop.

    You’re still lost, and now you’re being offered mint tea whilst his friend brings out a multitude of exotic spices or rugs.

    The male who took you there gets a commission if you cave in and buy something in order to get away.

    If you’re approached in this way, a firm no thank you or La shoukran usually does the trick.

    If he is very persistent, head to a nearest trader, and ask their advice about whether the road is closed or not.

    Make your boundaries clear but remain polite and try not to get too impatient.

    It can be difficult if you’re tired or overwhelmed, but showing your weakness will only show how vulnerable you are feeling, and you may become a target for more opportunists.

    . I can take you to your riad.

    When you first arrive in the medina, you are faced with a maze of alleyways and tunnels.

    Often, your riad will be tucked away inside the souks or down one of these alleyways, hidden from view.

    A tourist who looks as though they’re lost will invite the so-called ‘ helpful guide’ to your side who can show you exactly where you need to go.

    He will escort you, taking the long route to your riad, and then demand a payment from you.

    He may become quite persistent and insult you if you refuse to cough up.

    I was taken off guard seconds away from my riad.

    A young male basically nudged me along the narrow alleyway shoulder to shoulder. He demanded a payment, holding his hand out as I knocked on the door of my riad.

    I told him I wasn’t lost and knew where I was going and that I hadn’t requested his help. He was quite cross with me and began insulting me in Arabic.

    I stood my ground and ignored him until I was let inside my riad.

    This can feel somewhat intimidating, but don’t give in.

    Marrakech has a good police presence, and, in the worst case scenario, threatening them with this often does the trick.

    .Over inflated prices for tourists.

    There is a price for the attractions around the medina for tourists and a price for Moroccan residents.

    This happens in many countries nowadays and you can’t protest much about it.

    On the other hand, prices for street food and things you might wish to purchase in the souks are often much higher than they should be.

    Learn to bargain with the salesperson, try dropping around 25%, and eventually, the pair of you will reach a price you’re both happy with.

    Haggling is an art form, and it takes time to feel confident, but it’s a way of life in Marrakesh and can be quite a rewarding experience when you think you’ve managed to buy something for a fair price.

    If you’re not happy, shop around. There are plenty of places selling the same goods around the souks.

    . Gambling games in Jamaa El Fna.

    During the evening, when the square comes to life, there are a few pockets of entertainment where gambling games take place.

    These are scams that involve the winners working with the person in charge of the game.

    They impersonate curious onlookers and ask to take part. They win and a prize is exchanged.

    These are not genuine participants, and the likelihood of you winning a cash prize is virtually nil.

    . Unofficial tour guides.

    Some tourists mentioned being approached by unofficial tour guides whilst visiting some of the attractions around the medina.

    Males who begin by asking where you’re from, then following you around telling you a brief history of the place.

    After a short while, they ask for a fee for their time.

    If you want a genuine tour guide, check the website of the attraction you’re visiting or Get Your Guide. Booking. Com also offers attractions with a guided tour and transport. Payment is upfront, and guides are very knowledgeable.

    Marrakech is an amazing destination with so much to see and do.

    I have pointed out a few negatives that you should be aware of.

    You may not experience any of these things.

    Locals are very friendly, and tourists are accepted and made to feel very welcome.

    My advice is to make your boundaries clear from the start, get yourself some data with an Orange SIM for negotiating your way around the medina, and learn a few words of Arabic or French to help you say no thank you.

    Like anywhere else in the world, keep your wits about you in crowded places, and stay calm.

    You will have an incredible time in Marrakesh..

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  • BAHIA PALACE

    Bahia Palace is a stunning, 19th century palace in Marrakesh.

    It’s definitely a must-see if you’re visiting the city, and it’s quite spectacular.

    The rooms are decorated with stuccos, paintings, and mosaics to capture the essence of Islamic architecture.

    The word Bahia means  ‘brilliance’ in Arabic, reflecting the splendour of Islamic art and architecture.

    It is necessary to book tickets prior to visiting the palace as queues can be extremely long.

    They cost 70 dirhams each, and the palace is open from 8.00am-5.00pm daily.

    The courtyard is stunning, and all the rooms open out onto it.

    It is rather grand and very spacious with a fountain in the centre and intricate tile work typical of Morroccan culture.

    There is also a 2-acre garden surrounding the palace.

    There are orange trees lining the route up to the entrance of the palace.

    When Morocco gained independence from France in 1956, the Bahia palace was used as a royal residence. This was until King Hassan II transferred it to the custody of the Moroccan Ministry of Culture.

    The building then became a cultural icon and tourist attraction.

    Bahia Palace is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakech.

    It is best to arrive as close to opening time as possible to avoid the crowds.

    That way, you can spend time reading about the history of the palace and enjoying the experience.

    I would recommend visiting Bahia Palace.

    It’s gives you a good understanding of Islamic culture and the fine craftsmanship that defines it.

    If you enjoy looking at Islamic architecture, you could also visit Badi Palace in the Kasbah area of the city.

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  • HEALTHY JUICE AND SMOOTHIES IN MARRAKECH.

    Marrakech is a smoothie lover’s dream come true.

    One of the most refreshing, healthy drinks in and around the medina, smoothies can be found everywhere in Marrakesh.

    Using the freshest fruit from the local market and packed with nutritional goodness, smoothies are the perfect start to the day.

    I regularly choose the detoxifying smoothie for its positive health benefits and as a pick me up after a long, hot day exploring the medina.

    Literally, everything goes into making a perfect smoothie, and in Marrakech, they seem to have perfected the art.

    Fresh fruit, dried nuts, spiralina, cucumber, avocado, berries, banana, and spinach are just some of the ingredients that go into making the perfect smoothie.

    Pomegranate juice is refreshing in a hot climate like Marrakech.
    Fresh strawberries for sale in the medina.

    Fresh juice is also a popular choice amongst tourists who need something to quench their thirst in the heat of the day.

    Freshly squeezed lemon juice is tangy and exhilarating.

    Served with fresh mint, it’s both aromatic and tasty.

    Orange juice made from the oranges on the trees around the medina is a breakfast staple.

    It is sunshine in a glass.

    My absolute favourite juice was the freshly squeezed pomegranate juice.

    It was a refreshing tonic and gave me a burst of energy. 

    I was flagging in the heat during a hike around Ouzoud Waterfall, and it instantly hit the spot.

    Making pomegranate juice at Ouzoud Waterfall.

    The fruit juice vendors in the main square call you over to sample their mango and pineapple juice.

    They offer a selection of different fruits to try, and it’s exciting watching them make it for you.

    They are constantly trying to get your attention and offer you their service. There is so much competition.

    Juice vendors in Jamaa el Fna.

    There are a few places I can recommend…

    Pikala Cafe has an excellent choice of delicious, healthy juices and smoothies.

    ( See my separate post about Pikala Cafe).

    Detox smoothies in Pikala Cafe.

    Also,

    Le Ferme Medina.

    Henna Art Cafe. 

    La Famille (vegetarian restaurant)

    There are also plenty of rooftop restaurants around the main square to enjoy a well-deserved rest whilst sipping a refreshing cold juice or fruit smoothie and watching the action from above.

    It is important to stay hydrated whilst out and about in the medina.

    The temperature is very warm and humid.

    Whilst I can not underestimate the power of a bottle of water and it being a necessity, it’s worth trying the fresh juice as a healthy alternative.

    The vitamins and minerals are necessary to function for the hectic, busy schedule you may have planned.

    Smoothies are a perfect way to give you a boost, and they taste delicious.

    It’s all about balance.

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  • WHAT CLOTHING SHOULD I PACK FOR VISITING MARRAKECH?

    Marrakech can get very hot in summer, and temperatures can exeed 40° Celsius.

    Even the cooler months can feel very warm and humid, especially walking around the souks and popular points of interest.

    Marrakech is also a conservative city with a majority Muslim population.

    So, what should you wear to feel comfortable and respectable?

    For female visitors, I would suggest palazzo trousers.

    These are baggy and flowing, keeping you nice and cool.

    They pair well with smart cotton blouses and can be worn underneath a maxi dress.

    Lightweight cotton trousers also look smart, and neutral colours give a sophisticated, modest appearance.

    Silk (including recycled sari silk) maxi dresses are very versatile and keep you cool. They can be worn with a lightweight pair of palazzo trousers underneath for extra  modesty if the dress is thin.

    Linen is perfect and always looks polished. It may get slightly creased, so I would suggest bringing along a portable steamer. They’re a life-saver and take up very little space in your suitcase.

    However, most accommodations have an iron and laundry service.

    Cotton tee-shirts and blouses, paired with a maxi skirt or loose-fitting trousers, are ideal and can look flattering with the right accessories.

    Yoga pants are also perfect for a day exploring.

    Headscarves are fashionable at the moment and can be used as a head covering whilst visiting some of the religious sights or as a convenient wrap for around the shoulders.

    I like to wear turbans to cover my locs.

    They keep my head and neck cool at the same time.

    Silk scarves roll up really small and fit perfectly in your bag.

    Marrakech is definitely more liberal than other morroccan cities. However, exposing too much flesh is definitely frowned upon.

    You may attract unwanted attention from males and disapproval from local females spoiling your overall experience and making you feel uncomfortable.

    How you present yourself will determine the kind of experience you have in Marrakesh.

    In your hotel or riad, it’s perfectly fine to wear shorts and clothing for sunbathing, so pack something for those occasions also.

    Males can wear knee-length shorts with linen or cotton short-sleeved shirts to look smart yet casual.

    Many restaurants don’t accept men wearing sandals, but smart leather sliders are deemed to be acceptable.

    Linen or cotton long trousers for men are ideal and keep the body cool.

    Regarding men’s clothing choices, it’s definitely less important than the females.

    I wouldn’t advise a male to walk around without a shirt on. That is best left for beach holidays.

    So, staying comfortable and cool is the only thing they need to consider.

    On the other hand, women are expected to respect the cultural norms of the country unless they’re going to the clubs in the Gueliz or Hivenage part of Marrakech.

    This is where the clubs and bars are, and it’s acceptable to dress more glamorously here.

    You can still look good in the appropriate clothing.

    It’s about choosing nice accessories.

    Regarding footwear, there is a lot of walking around the medina, so comfortable footwear is essential.

    Trainers, pumps, or sandals are all acceptable.

    I took a couple of outfits in my travel bag, and once I arrived, I bought the rest of my clothing in the souks.

    It wasn’t too expensive, and I felt as if I blended in with the locals better.

    I enjoyed wearing the traditional Moroccan dresses and ethnic style tops and trousers.

    Finally, I have never needed to take a warm coat to Marrakech.

    I usually take a shawl or cardigan, and it’s always been adequate, even in March.

    Depending on what time of year you travel to Marrakech, you may be better thinking in terms of layers.

    In winter, the evenings can get chilly.

    A trip to Agafay desert can be  very blustery, sitting watching the sunset.

    A shawl or lightweight hoodie or jumper is perfect to enjoy the experience in the open air.

    A thin skin underneath a long dress or trousers is usually enough.

    I wore long sleeved tee-shirts underneath my dresses during the evenings.

    Keeping your eyes on the weather forecast before travelling will help you to plan accordingly for your trip.

    So to sum up,

    Wearing comfortable clothing suitable for a day exploring the medina and tourist hot spots is the most important thing to consider.

    You will walk a lot, and it can get humid.

    To discourage unwanted attention and negative vibes from the locals, female travellers should refrain from dressing too provocatively.

    Unless they’re in the bars and clubs, which are more liberally minded.

    Choosing natural fibres is the best way to stay cool, and long, loose-fitting garments are ideal because they look modest and feminine.

    Turbans are elegant and modest.

    Lastly, don’t forget to bring the sunscreen.

    You don’t want to walk around looking like a lobster.

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  • CAFE ARABE

    In the heart of the medina.

    Open air seating inside café Arabe

    Cafe Arabe is a popular destination for people looking for Italian and Morroccan cuisine.

    It is open all day serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    The open-air restaurant has a rooftop overlooking the medina and comfortable seating in the patio area.

    The incredible views of the sunset draw people in to enjoy a cocktail on the rooftop, and it gets booked up very quickly.

    I visited initially for a refreshing smoothie and a break from the intensity of the souks and the heat.

    We were given breadsticks and olives to accompany them at no extra charge.

    A  much needed respite from the heat and a refreshing, healthy smoothie.

    I enjoyed looking out over the rooftops of the medina whilst relaxing.

    There was no pressure to order something to eat, which was nice.

    I decided to book a meal for later in the evening because the vibe was good inside the restaurant and the food looked delicious.

    The view from one side of the restaurant to the other.

    One thing I particularly liked was the decor.

    The exotic green colour leading upstairs to the terrace is absolutely stunning.

    This was my favourite part of the restaurant, I could have sat here happily all afternoon.

    The bathroom is very clean and well maintained.

    The striking green colour on the way up to the terrace is beautiful.

    Returning later for a meal, it was incredibly busy, and the service was slower.

    There were people queuing to be seated and waiters rushing about trying to cope with the demand. 

    We ordered pizzas, which were very tasty.

    They took a long time to arrive, and we ended up having a few beers with olives whilst we waited.

    We would have liked a desert, but we didn’t have time to wait for their arrival, so we decided to try again another day when it’s less busy.

    We tried booking a table for the following evening but it was full.

    I would suggest booking a few days in advance as Cafe Arabe appears to be very popular with tourists in the medina.

    The prices are average considering the proximity to Jamaa El Fna, and the food was fairly decent.

    It was a little bit too busy for me, and not surprisingly, the waiters appeared to be slightly under pressure.

    There were a few discrepancies with my bill, which took ages to rectify. However, it didn’t spoil the overall enjoyment of our dining experience.

    I would certainly come back just for a cold beer and to watch the sunset on the rooftop.

    Cafe Arabe  is open daily from 10.00am-12.00am

    The address is,

    184 Rue Mouassine

    Marrakech 40000 Morocco

    I would recommend booking a table for around 6.00pm this is the best time to come before it gets too busy.

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  • LIMONI ITALIAN RESTAURANT

    Limoni italian restaurant is an excellent choice for diners who fancy a change from traditional Morroccan food.

    They serve both authentic Italian cuisine and traditional Morroccan food.

    The surroundings are incredibly pretty, with lemon and orange trees in the courtyard and lovely little lanterns hanging from them.

    There is also a rooftop area and outdoor seating.

    I chose a margarita pizza which was cooked to perfection. The base tasted really authentic.

    I had a tirimisu for dessert, and that was also delicious.

    At Limoni, they serve alcoholic beverages, including cocktails, wines, and spirits.

    We finished our meal with a limoncello to celebrate our wonderful trip to Marrakech.

    A toast to good health and happiness.

    There is a fireplace for cooler evenings during the winter months and outdoor seating.

    It is recommended to book as the restaurant can get busy.

    The address is,

    40 Rue Diour Saboun

    Marrakech 40000 Morrocco

    Limoni Italian restaurant is suitable for people with limited mobility and wheelchair users.

    They also have vegetarian and vegan options available on the menu.

    They do excellent pasta dishes, and apparently, the camel hamburger is quite popular.

    All the meals are reasonably priced and have good value for money.

    The courtyard inside Pepe Nero.

    It was a nice dining experience at Limoni. Although it was quite busy, it felt intimate and  relaxed without being pretentious.

    From the outside, it appears rather unassuming.

    Once you enter inside, it is spacious and inviting.

    At the moment, it is temporarily closed.

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  • JAMAA EL FNA AT NIGHT.

    Jamaa El Fna comes alive in the evening, attracting thousands of people from around Morrocco and tourists alike.

    If you think it’s a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set.

    Gone are the snake charmers and chained monkies to be replaced with food vendors and henna ladies, street musicians, and dancers.

    Enjoying some performers in the square.

    The scene is organised chaos and a sensory overload.

    The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted.

    This is where people come together to meet each other, eat traditional street food, and sip mint tea and freshly squeezed juice.

    The atmosphere is electric and vibrates with a magnetic energy.

    Street vendors pursue potential customers with menus as they try to navigate their way through the crowds.

    Sometimes, they can be very persistent, and you can feel somewhat intimidated.

    The scene is very intense yet magical and exciting.

    I really enjoyed myself, but other people say that they felt slightly overwhelmed.

    It is unlike anything else you may have experienced.

    There is so much to see. There are games being played, and a few little scams take place to trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around, chat with each other, or play with a football close to the walls of the medina.

    Sugarcane is sold from vending carts.

    Bemused onlookers sit observing everything outside restaurants or from the rooftops in the square as the mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes intense and electrifying.

    The square is transformed into a social hub where anything and everything takes place.

    As night falls, the square comes alive.

    It’s an incredible experience.

    The bright lights dazzle from the food vendors, and beautiful Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets light the way, giving off a wonderful glow.

    The aroma of sheeps head cooking floats through the air.

    Tourists tempted to try a bowl of snails queue to sample this culinary delight.

    Drums beat, belly dancers perform to curious onlookers and acrobats show off their skills to the crowds.

    From restaurant windows around the square, you can watch from a safe distance,  but you can not escape the craziness.

    It magnetises you.

    The sheer madness, a complete assault on the senses in every way possible.

    View from the window of a restaurant, overlooking Jamaa El Fna/image Freebird Tracey.

    It’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play, and they are determined to have a good time.

    Jamaa El Fna at night is truly a spectacle to behold.

    It’s lively, colourful, aromatic, and noisy.

    Be sure to visit and become a part of what makes Marrakech so unique.

    It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid obvious scams.

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  • KABANA ROOFTOP BAR.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.

    They also have a good selection of dishes on the menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar via steps, and from the road, it looks rather unassuming.

    Entrance to Kabana rooftop bar.

    Once inside, it’s tastefully decorated with lanterns hanging everywhere and music playing on a large television screen.

    It’s a very busy venue, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.

    The bar is huge, and you can either sit inside or outside, where most people prefer to hang out.

    Selection of alcoholic beverages at the bar.

    I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.

    Other people had mixed reviews, saying waiting times were long and that it was pricey for food and drinks.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.

    It was always full, and on the occasions we simply visited for cocktails, we couldn’t always be guaranteed a seat on the rooftop for a cocktail.

    However, after waiting for approximately 30 minutes inside the bar area, we eventually got a place.

    There is table service.

    The unisex bathroom is a treat,  beautifully decorated, modern, and traditional.

    Kabana rooftop bar seems to be one of the more popular places for drinks in the medina and lacked authenticity for me.

    The surroundings were nice with plenty of greenery, and the lanterns looked very pretty after dark.

    There is a view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, but it’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    View of Koutoubia Mosque.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe, attracting all age groups.

    It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,

    11.00am-2.00am

    They play DJ sets, and it’s a  vibrant setting with a more relaxed dress code.

    It is not an intimate place for a romantic meal, in my opinion, and I found it difficult to have a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    However, there are plenty of traditional, authentic places in the medina to dine out if you prefer a quieter environment.

    Kabana is a cocktail bar similar to the places in the new town, with the same energy but within walking distance for those people staying in the medina.

    It’s definitely worth a visit.

    The address is,

    Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,

    1 Rue Fatima Zahra,

    40000 Marrakech Morocco.

    A refreshing cocktail inside the Kabana rooftop bar.
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  • PALAIS DAR DONAB

    A beautiful, calm environment serving authentic Morroccon food.

    Courtyard of Palais Dar Donab/image Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is a special treat.

    The scent of orange blossom fills the air, and the sound of birds chirping gives a sense of peace and tranquillity whilst dining here.

    This was one of my favourite places to visit and I absolutely loved it here.

    I visited several times, sometimes for a glass of wine during the afternoon and a welcome break from sightseeing.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is extensive with food to suit most palates.

    They serve a decent selection of excellent wines and beers.

    I was very satisfied with the quality of food and enjoyed each meal I had in this fine restaurant.

    The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I tried in Marrakesh, and the delicious smoothies were all beautifully presented.

    Vegetable tagine with bread and olives.

    Palais Dar Donab is a high-end riad, where guests and visitors alike are welcome to come in and enjoy a quiet break from the busy medina.

    As you relax in the calm, tranquil surroundings, you never feel rushed.

    The gentle sound of the leaves on the trees and the trickling water make dining here a very pleasant experience.

    They are open for lunch aswell as dinner.

    The restaurant is set around a large pool and citrus trees, making it the perfect place for a nice rest.

    Relaxing on the comfortable couches and admiring the intricate craftsmanship inside is a nice way to pass an hour or so.

    I highly recommend trying Palais Dar Donab, not just for the quality of the food and friendly service, but for the peaceful atmosphere.

    You come away feeling recharged and de-stressed.

    You are ready to head back out into Jamaa El Fna and the souks again..

    Enjoying a moment of quiet contemplation.

    Opening hours are,

    Monday-Sunday

    10.00am-10.30pm

    Address is,

    53 Dar el Basha-Bab,

    Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.

    The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit cards.

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  • ZEITOUNE CAFE.

    Situated in Jamaa El Fna, Zeitoune cafe is the perfect place for a bite to eat.

    The views from the balcony overlook the square, and it’s fun watching the daily activities take place whilst having a spot of lunch.

    The food here was incredibly good, with large portions and varied and interesting choices on the menu.

    The smoothies were gorgeous.

    I enjoyed a hearty salad for lunch and the strawberry smoothie. Also, the obligatory olives are always welcome.

    The lamb tagine with dried fruits was a  popular choice amongst diners.

    They serve excellent breakfasts with refreshing juices and good coffee, all reasonably priced.

    Delicious pancakes at Zeitoune Cafe.

    Zeitoune is in a strategic location, offering great views, and the service is very good.

    They are open all day until 1.00 am. and serve good cocktails.

    They do not accept reservations, so it’s first come, first served.

    They also accept card payments.

    There are vegetarian and vegan options available.

    There are steps up to the balcony and upper floors, but for people with limited mobility, there is outdoor seating available.

    Zeitoune Cafes’ address is,

    107 Place Jamaa El Fnaa

    40000 Morocco

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