Tag: North Africa

An exploration of The Red City known as Marrakech.
  • Jamaa El Fna At Night.

    The main square comes alive in the evening.

    Images by Freebird Tracey.

    If you think it’s a busy place during the daytime, be prepared for a surprise once the sun begins to set.

    Gone are the snake charmers and chained monkies to be replaced with food vendors and henna ladies, street musicians, and dancers.

    Enjoying some performers in the square.

    The scene is organised chaos and a sensory overload.

    The sights, sounds, and smells are not for the faint-hearted.

    This is where people come together to meet each other, eat traditional street food, and sip mint tea and freshly squeezed juice.

    The atmosphere is electric and vibrates with a magnetic energy.

    Street vendors pursue potential customers with menus as they try to navigate their way through the crowds.

    Sometimes, they can be very persistent, and you can feel somewhat intimidated.

    The scene is very intense yet magical and exciting.

    I really enjoyed myself, but other people say that they felt slightly overwhelmed.

    It is unlike anything else you may have experienced.

    There is so much to see. There are games being played, and a few little scams take place to trick you into coughing up a few dirhams.

    Locals hang around, chat with each other, or play with a football close to the walls of the medina.

    Sugarcane is sold from vending carts.

    Bemused onlookers sit observing everything outside restaurants or from the rooftops in the square as the mosque rings out the call to prayer.

    As the sun sets, the crowds flock, and the atmosphere becomes intense and electrifying.

    The square is transformed into a social hub where anything and everything takes place.

    As night falls, the square comes alive.

    It’s an incredible experience.

    The bright lights dazzle from the food vendors, and beautiful Morroccan lamps for sale on blankets light the way, giving off a wonderful glow.

    The aroma of sheeps head cooking floats through the air.

    Tourists tempted to try a bowl of snails queue to sample this culinary delight.

    Drums beat, belly dancers perform to curious onlookers and acrobats show off their skills to the crowds.

    From restaurant windows around the square, you can watch from a safe distance,  but you can not escape the craziness.

    It magnetises you.

    The sheer madness, a complete assault on the senses in every way possible.

    View from the window of a restaurant, overlooking Jamaa El Fna/image Freebird Tracey.

    It’s as though the whole of Morrocco has come out to play, and they are determined to have a good time.

    Jamaa El Fna at night is truly a spectacle to behold.

    It’s lively, colourful, aromatic, and noisy.

    Be sure to visit and become a part of what makes Marrakech so unique.

    It’s certainly an eye-opener.

    Although it’s mostly safe around the square, exercise the usual caution in large crowded areas and try to avoid obvious scams.

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  • Kabana Rooftop Bar.

    Kabana Rooftop Bar is a lively, popular place serving a wide range of cocktails and other alcoholic beverages.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    They also have a good selection of dishes on the menu to suit all palates.

    You enter the bar via steps, and from the road, it looks rather unassuming.

    Entrance to Kabana rooftop bar.

    Once inside, it’s tastefully decorated with lanterns hanging everywhere and music playing on a large television screen.

    It’s a very busy venue, and booking is essential to be guaranteed a seat.

    The bar is huge, and you can either sit inside or outside, where most people prefer to hang out.

    Selection of alcoholic beverages at the bar.

    I took my son for his birthday meal and he chose the steak. He said it was cooked to perfection.

    Other people had mixed reviews, saying waiting times were long and that it was pricey for food and drinks.

    The food is Mediterranean inspired, and they also have a sushi menu.

    It was always full, and on the occasions we simply visited for cocktails, we couldn’t always be guaranteed a seat on the rooftop for a cocktail.

    However, after waiting for approximately 30 minutes inside the bar area, we eventually got a place.

    There is table service.

    The unisex bathroom is a treat,  beautifully decorated, modern, and traditional.

    Kabana rooftop bar seems to be one of the more popular places for drinks in the medina and lacked authenticity for me.

    The surroundings were nice with plenty of greenery, and the lanterns looked very pretty after dark.

    There is a view of Koutoubia Mosque from the rooftop, but it’s slightly shielded because drinking alcohol with the Mosque in full view is prohibited in Islamic culture.

    View of Koutoubia Mosque.

    Kabana rooftop bar has a very cosmopolitan vibe, attracting all age groups.

    It is situated at the gate of the medina and open daily from,

    11.00am-2.00am

    They play DJ sets, and it’s a  vibrant setting with a more relaxed dress code.

    It is not an intimate place for a romantic meal, in my opinion, and I found it difficult to have a conversation amidst the crowds of people and loud music.

    However, there are plenty of traditional, authentic places in the medina to dine out if you prefer a quieter environment.

    Kabana is a cocktail bar similar to the places in the new town, with the same energy but within walking distance for those people staying in the medina.

    It’s definitely worth a visit.

    The address is,

    Kissariat Ben Khalid R’mila,

    1 Rue Fatima Zahra,

    40000 Marrakech Morocco.

    A refreshing cocktail inside the Kabana rooftop bar.
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  • Palais Dar Donab.

    A beautiful, calm environment serving authentic Morroccon food.

    Courtyard of Palais Dar Donab/image Freebird Tracey.

    Palais Dar Donab is a special treat.

    The scent of orange blossom fills the air, and the sound of birds chirping gives a sense of peace and tranquillity whilst dining here.

    This was one of my favourite places to visit and I absolutely loved it here.

    I visited several times, sometimes for a glass of wine during the afternoon and a welcome break from sightseeing.

    Image Freebird Tracey.

    The menu is extensive with food to suit most palates.

    They serve a decent selection of excellent wines and beers.

    I was very satisfied with the quality of food and enjoyed each meal I had in this fine restaurant.

    The vegetable tagine was one of the tastiest I tried in Marrakesh, and the delicious smoothies were all beautifully presented.

    Vegetable tagine with bread and olives.

    Palais Dar Donab is a high-end riad, where guests and visitors alike are welcome to come in and enjoy a quiet break from the busy medina.

    As you relax in the calm, tranquil surroundings, you never feel rushed.

    The gentle sound of the leaves on the trees and the trickling water make dining here a very pleasant experience.

    They are open for lunch aswell as dinner.

    The restaurant is set around a large pool and citrus trees, making it the perfect place for a nice rest.

    Relaxing on the comfortable couches and admiring the intricate craftsmanship inside is a nice way to pass an hour or so.

    I highly recommend trying Palais Dar Donab, not just for the quality of the food and friendly service, but for the peaceful atmosphere.

    You come away feeling recharged and de-stressed.

    You are ready to head back out into Jamaa El Fna and the souks again..

    Enjoying a moment of quiet contemplation.

    Opening hours are,

    Monday-Sunday

    10.00am-10.30pm

    Address is,

    53 Dar el Basha-Bab,

    Doukkala Marrakech, Morocco.

    The restaurant is vegetarian and vegan friendly and accepts credit cards.

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  • Zeitoune Cafe.

    Situated in Jamaa El Fna, Zeitoune cafe is the perfect place for a bite to eat.

    The views from the balcony overlook the square, and it’s fun watching the daily activities take place whilst having a spot of lunch.

    The food here was incredibly good, with large portions and varied and interesting choices on the menu.

    The smoothies were gorgeous.

    I enjoyed a hearty salad for lunch and the strawberry smoothie. Also, the obligatory olives are always welcome.

    The lamb tagine with dried fruits was a  popular choice amongst diners.

    They serve excellent breakfasts with refreshing juices and good coffee, all reasonably priced.

    Delicious pancakes at Zeitoune Cafe.

    Zeitoune is in a strategic location, offering great views, and the service is very good.

    They are open all day until 1.00 am. and serve good cocktails.

    They do not accept reservations, so it’s first come, first served.

    They also accept card payments.

    There are vegetarian and vegan options available.

    There are steps up to the balcony and upper floors, but for people with limited mobility, there is outdoor seating available.

    Zeitoune Cafes’ address is,

    107 Place Jamaa El Fnaa

    40000 Morocco

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  • Le Marrakchi Restaurant.

    A popular restaurant with views over the Jamaa El Fna

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    A fine dining experience in tastefully decorated surroundings situated on,

    52 Rue des Banques, Av.

    Jamaa El Fna

    40000 Morocco

    A refreshing cocktail inside Marrakchi Restaurant.

    Le Marrakchi restaurant is beautifully intimate with dim lighting and candles lit on the tables, giving it a warm, cosy glow.

    It’s a popular place to dine in the square, attracting a variety of people, including locals and tourists alike.

    It’s a family-friendly establishment and has vegan options available.

    The whole ambience is very special, and the vibe inside the restaurant is very relaxing despite it being a relatively busy place.

    From the outside, the walls have a wonderful, red glow, which is very atmospheric and inviting.

    Vegetable cous cous in Marrakchi restaurant.

    The food is good, I especially enjoyed the tagines which were served with a spicy, Harissa sauce at the side.

    Service was also good, and the waiters were attentive and friendly.

    The decor was traditionally Morroccan, and it felt cosy and romantic inside.

    They serve alcohol including a wide range of beautifully presented cocktails.

    Marrakchi serves a range of wines and cocktails.

    Prices are average for a licenced restaurant close to Jamaa El Fna.

    I went back several times because the vibe was very pleasant, and I enjoyed listening to the sounds of the busy square outside the windows.

    I didn’t feel rushed despite the fact that the restaurant was busy and people were coming and going throughout the evening.

    There was a good selection of dishes on the menu, and I enjoyed the vegetarian options, including vegetable cous cous, typically eaten on Fridays in Marrakesh.

    The bathroom facilities were excellent and smelt very fragrant.

    There are a few steps to climb into the restaurant area, so it’s probably not suitable for people with mobility issues.

    Opening hours are 12.00-12.00am daily.

    They also offer a takeaway service if you don’t wish to visit in person.

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  • Atay And Moroccan Pastries.

    Marrakech is full of delightful little places to sit, and people watch whilst sipping traditional mint tea known as atay.

    A pretty little spot inside the medina.

    The colourful, boho decor and tempting pastries are the perfect way to take a much needed breather from the chaos of the souks.

    Shopping in the medina is a fascinating experience, but it can be overwhelming.

    I found out that taking a break and pacing myself was the best way to thoroughly enjoy my time looking around and navigating the maze of the souks.

    I especially loved the sweets and pastries on offer. They were absolutely delicious and complimented the refreshing mint tea perfectly.

    There were so many to choose from, and I decided to treat myself to a selection of smaller pastries to see which were my favourites.

    A tasty snack inside the medina.

    If you are shopping for gifts or spending time in the colourful, vibrant souks, I would highly recommend that you take some time out to rest and pace yourself.

    Sitting outside a cute little tea shop and sampling something light and tasty is a great way to engage in the culture of Morrocco and its people.

    Enjoying a breather from shopping.

    There are plenty of places offering mint tea and pastries dotted in and around the main square.

    The sweets are an absolute treat, but you will be spoilt for choice.

    The choice of delicious treats on offer in the souks.

    Part of the pleasure of exploring the medina is finding hidden gems where you can sit and gather yourself before venturing further.

    Marrakech is known for its delicious pastries, and they’re a nice snack that won’t spoil your appetite for later in the day.

    Watching the world go by in the medina.

    A few suggestions are,

    . Medina Kawa Marrakech.

    . La Patisserie de la Terracce Spices

    . Boughaz Coffee in the Kasbah.

    Also, check out my blog post about traditional Morroccan mint tea.

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  • Riad Blue Berber

    A 17th Century Riad In A Great Location.

    Courtyard with original tiles.

    Riad Blue Berber is a traditional riad close to some great places such as Bahia Palace, Dardar rooftop bar, Le Pegola, and a variety of restaurants and shops.

    It is situated on my favourite side of the medina because it’s still lively yet a little less manic.

    I find it easier to locate riads here than negotiating the souks late at night.

    The riad is authentic and pretty with typically morroccan furnished suites.

    There is a more intimate feel about this riad because it’s slightly smaller.

    The owner, Habi, is a knowledgeable man who enjoys a chat with his guests. He is very hospitable, and the riad has a homely feel about it because of its staff.

    Mona, the lady who cooks breakfast, doesn’t speak English, but every morning, she prepared a hearty breakfast for me.

    The riad can organise tours, runs cooking classes, and will store your luggage after checking out.

    The rooftop was large with different tiers to sit on and was being updated during my stay.

    The rooftop of Riad Blue Berber.

    However, it would benefit from a lick of paint to make it perfect.

    I always felt safe walking to and from Riad Blue Berber. This is also a bonus, especially for female solo travellers.

    The traditional 17th century tiles on the floor of the courtyard give it a sense of character and charm.

    Riad Blue Berber has four rooms.

    Three of the rooms have air conditioning, and two have fans and heaters.

    It is approximately 200 metres from Jamaa El Fna,

    The address is;

    5 Derb Jdid, Riad Zitoun Lakdim, kadim، 40040, Morocco

    Courtyard in Riad Blue Berber.

    For more information about places to stay, contact me via the email address below;

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  • L’Mdina  Restaurant.

    A great little place serving authentic, good quality food close to Jamaa El Fna.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The meals are good value for money, and there’s a lively atmosphere with live music playing.

    The menu is interesting and varied.

    They serve traditional tangia (tender meat, cooked for hours in an earthenware pot, called a tangier)

    The lamb was cooked to perfection,  succulent and tender, and the aromatic aroma as it was tipped from the tangia onto the plate was mouthwatering.

    The salads are delicious and creative, combining an interesting infusion of flavours.

    I especially enjoyed the vegetable tagine, with root vegetables and chickpeas.

    L’Mdina is a restaurant serving Moroccan, Mediterranean, and international dishes with a traditional gastronomic touch.

    It is located about 2 minutes from the square.

    They also have seating available for people, simply wanting a coffee or just a drink at the bar, whilst listening to some live music.

    The menu is suitable for vegetarians with vegan options also available.

    The restaurant seats 60 people and is beautifully decorated with an authentic Moroccan theme.

    The musicians played a mix of traditional Morroccan music and Latin American.

    They entertained the diners without being too loud, so we were able to engage in conversation.

    It was the perfect dinner setting. A combination of  good food, a nice ambience, as well as being budget friendly.

    Whilst it can get quite busy, I didn’t have to queue long.

    I was happy to be seated outside. It was a nice, warm evening, and I was content feeling the vibe of the restaurant mixed with the magic of the medina during evening time.

    L’Mdina is close enough to the main square for a break from the hustle and bustle, whilst still feeling a part of it.  It’s a place to go for an hour or so to recharge one’s batteries.

    There is a set menu at lunchtime for 85 dirhams, and it’s worth every penny.

    If you want a tasty meal, which is reasonably priced with some entertainment, I recommend giving L’mdina a try.

    The restaurant’s address is;

    42 rue des banque

    Marrakech 40000

    L’Mdina opens at 12 midday and closes at 23.00

    They accept card payments.

    For more information about places to eat, contact me via the email address below;

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  • Riad Jardin Lea.

    A comfortable riad with friendly staff.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Lea, as it is also known, is a traditional mid priced riad only 10 minutes walk away from the main square.

    There are 5 suites, and they are authentically decorated and comfortable.

    The courtyard is peaceful with the sound of birds chirping.

    It’s a nice place to sit and cool down after a busy morning exploring the city in the heat.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The rooftop is a great place for a spot of sunbathing, and there is also a jacuzzi.

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    The staff at Riad Lea were especially attentive. They couldn’t do enough for their guests.

    They even offered me some of their food they were breaking their fast with during Ramadan.

    It’s the little touches like this that make a traditional riad such a charming place to stay. There are more modern riads, but it’s the personal touches that stand out for me.

    The staff at Riad Lea made sure that their guests felt comfortable and happy.

    There was a lovely atmosphere in the riad, and everyone seemed to be having a great experience.

    Reaching the riad was like heading down a hobbit hole, and the doorway was not made for tall people, but once you got used to it, you soon remembered to duck.

    The breakfast at Riad Lea was a typical Morroccan breakfast, but as good as I’ve had in the more expensive riads.

    I loved their homemade yoghurt and msemen pancakes.

    The walk to the main square was enjoyable, passing by lots of interesting little shops and restaurants on the way.

    I enjoyed my stay at Riad Lea. It’s not a fancy 5 star accommodation, but it’s good value for money.

    It was clean, I had everything I needed, and the staff were a credit to the riad.

    Riad Lea can be found at,

    41 Derb Sidi Bou

    Amar Marrakech 40000.

    Courtyard at Riad Lea.

    For more information about places to stay, contact me via the email address below;

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  • Riad Laila.

    A mid range riad on the outskirts of the medina

    Image by Freebird Tracey.

    Riad Laila is a stunning riad with the most beautiful courtyard.

    It is larger than most riads, and the courtyard is full of exquisite plants, including mandarin trees and hibiscus.

    There is a large swimming pool for guests to enjoy.

    The rooms are tastefully furnished and modern.

    This is a more recently renovated riad.

    The rooftop is very pretty and a great spot for sunbathing or relaxing with a refreshing mint tea and looking at the views over the medina.

    The rooftop.

    Riad Laila is the perfect riad for those people who are looking for spa like feel to their Morroccan experience.

    The staff exude professionalism and wear uniforms. They keep a keen eye on guests, and the place is run immaculately.

    Everything is spotlessly clean, and it’s the kind of place where you can spend ages just relaxing by the side of the pool.

    Riad Laila is a high-end accommodation at the most northern side of the medina.

    It is close to the bus station and around a 25-minute walk from the centre.

    The Jardin Majorelle is a short walk away.

    I found Raid Laila fine for a couple of days but did miss the charm of a more authentic and traditional family run riad.

    The food was not the best either.

    I’m a vegetarian, and I was disappointed with my meal.

    I basically had a few vegetables served as a side dish.

    This could have been because of the language barrier.

    The overall impression was that everything felt slightly clinical and lacked the laid-back, homely feel that Marrakech is known for.

    However, if you’re looking for a complete break away from the excitement and sensory overload of the medina, Riad Laila may be perfect for you.

    It is visually appealing and one of the nicest gardens boasting 840m2.

    Inside the high walls of the riad, it is tranquil and relaxing.

    They have a resident tortoise called Laila who loves you to feed her hibiscus flowers.

    Laila the riads namesake.

    The surrounding streets are very quiet, and so I preferred taking a taxi during the evening to the main square.

    It’s a decent walk in the heat also.

    Riad Laila is at,

    104 Diour Jdad

    Zaouia Abbassia

    Marrakech 40000.

    For more information about places to stay in Marrakech, contact me via the email address below;

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